If you want to fit a Coyote in that car, you need a front suspension kit from TCI, or Heidt's that includes the entire front suspension and disk brakes that moves the shock towers out away from the wheels. It's a coil-over setup that makes the suspension much more compact.
@@MrUltraworld I totally agree with you on the TCI kit with the coil-overs. I hope he goes a step further and beefs-up the front rails to handle the torque. Did you happen to notice what the differential looks like? I'm guessing that it's on the weak side too. Early Stang's used the same chassis set-up as the Falcon.
Swapping out all those fire weakened pieces of sheet metal is absolutely the right thing to do. Even if you're 'gut' told you that maybe this or that piece would be ok. Better safe and not have a weak link built into your restoration. The metal on my brother's car, after the Ventura fires of 2017, was bendable like a coat hanger. Same with his tools, all hardening completely gone to the point you could just fold wrenches over on themselves like putty. Side note: all that work to turn it back into a straight-six secretaries' car is way beyond whack. Make it what you want to have fun with and enjoy.
Before removing the aprons, check for the VINs on the top of each apron. The one on the left apron is near the top middle, the one on the right is on top towards the back near the cowl. These VINs are the OFFICIAL ones for the title. The VIN on the door tag is NOT official for title purposes because the door can be replaced. You may want to find a way to integrate the VIN sections into your replacement panels. If you remove the VINs totally you could FUBAR any chances of selling this Mustang in the future.
Just as little side note: Wilwood makes a reinforcement for where the brake master cylinder mounts. Those firewalls can have a lot of flex in them even under the best conditions. The guy who does Four Speed Films on TH-cam installed it on his similar vehicle and it really makes a difference in braking and pedal feel.
I guess. I’ve had more than a few of these cars, and I never really noticed significant flex. Maybe in a race car I can see it, but I don’t think it’s mandatory.
@@ivycycles yeah I’ve seen that video. I’m not saying it’s a complete waste of time, I just don’t think it’s an absolute necessity as it is being described here.
This 65 Mustang was originally an inline six, I had one in high school. The hubs are all four bolts, if you want to run a big V8, you also need to replace the rear end. That is a six cylinder rear end, and when you pop the clutch it will blow the rear end or the snap the ubolts on the drive shaft. Ask me how I know? I installed a heavily modified 289 in mine, and went out for the first run to burn a little rubber and boom. I went to a junk yard and picked up a replacement rear end from a wrecked V8 mustang.
Mustangs to fear makes a really nice entire front clip with the fender aprons, rad support, frame rails, and front suspension without the shock towers. Just replace your firewall and cowl panels with stock replacement pieces and put the kit on it
Some thought from an old fart here, who has done this before. Look around at the various manufacturers of front suspension packages and Coyote swap kits for this car, and find one you like, and buy everything from them. Do not try to piece together suspension or swap kit parts from different manufacturers/suppliers, you will wind up frustrated as heck. These different suppliers do not build their pieces to fit with other companies stuff, this isn't like just buying a new strut rod for a 65 Mustang, you are doing a complete redesign and engineering of the front suspension. When you are talking to Heidts or whomever ask them if they know of anyone who has used their package and Coyote swapped it in a 65-66 Mustang. Ask lots of questions, get the answers that fit your plans, and buy once, have one source to go to if you have a problem, one source for replacement parts, etc. Save yourself a ton of headaches. also...Drum brakes were used for decades with V--8s in cars twice as heavy as that Mustang and they worked just fine. Yes, for performance applications Disc is better, but drums, when maintained correctly and adjusted up were perfectly safe. Not bustin' yer nuts, V-tuned, just tryin' to help you understand this old iron.
Agree. I was 11 when my 66 came out and I always wanted one and now do. But the work I put into mine is nothing like he will be doing. Research research!
You must be new to the channel. This guy doesn’t ask questions or make plans, he just picks up the grinder and starts cutting til there’s nothing left.
I have a question with the original suspension an optional reinforcement bar was added between the shock towers at the top on each side it Stabilized the top of the shock towers and improved handling. This was standard on Shelby GT350’s and factory race cars and I believe it was on R code cars also does the new suspension only bolt to the sub frame and not have the flex issue in corners I know the shock towers are eliminated the issue in the original suspension but the entire engine compartment must have been flexing or just the aprons were deforming individually but the reinforcement bar locked them together
I started a 65 fastback back in the mid 80’s I looked at the brakes and found three choices go with the original, upgrade to Shelby GT350 or go Disc then two choices stock or Shelby. The steering I had a pro built 302 so the shock towers wasn’t an issue I was going with a Shelby road race quick steering suspension with Koni shocks. The suspension parts were Ford off the shelf I was lucky the top Ford speed shop in the country at the time was 90 minutes away and stocked the parts. The rear leaf springs were replaced with the with the Shelby ones. I recommend this setup it’s not that much more money and it’s gives you that rack and pinion go cart feel. The nice thing is VToon can buy a disc brake 9” for a 65 Mustang he wants a 65 or 66 Mustang because the differentials overall Length is about 2” shorter than a 68-73 one they used the 65 differential in newer Fords because the spring mounting pads are the same distance but with the factory narrower differential you could gain about an inch of clearance with a bolt in.
Absolutely!! Your quality of work and skill is worth far more to the finished product than saving $140 not replacing aprons. So go for it! In fact, I'm surprised previous shop and owner were so cheap. That they would not replace brakes with new drums instead of disc's in the first place.
If you're gonna do it, do it right and replace both inner fenders, radiator support, firewall and cowl, then you don't have to worry about the structural integrity of the front end.
I noticed that when you pulled the engine that all the tranny fluid poured out the end, I used to stop that problem by taping a sandwich bag over the end , saved a lot of clean up.
I just hope that you understand exactly what you are getting into here. You don't just "drop" a coyote engine into an early Mustang. There is a ton of fabrication, and there is a TON of cost involved. I keep hearing you talk about trying to save $100 parts ... but you are going to need about 10 grand just in subframes, suspension, and brake parts. The uni-frame on the car will have to be reinforced. The car will absolutely have to be caged, or it will twist into a pretzel. You REALLY need to pause for a minute, and take a look at this project, and decide if it's really what you need to be doing, right now. Obviously, there is a LOT more to the story of the new shop than what we have been told. And that's fine, because it's probably personal, and it's family, and that's none of anyone's business but yours. But let's just be honest here. You don't have a floor jack. You have a handful of tools. You may have a ton of experience with more modern cars, but you clearly don't have experience with older one's. This may seem harsh, and it kinda is. But I would rather take some hate in the comments than see you go 0 for 3 with classic Mustangs, because you obviously have a dream of building one. Maybe it would be better to just rebuild this one back with a "standard" 302, and save the full blown swap for later when the shop is better equipped, finances are more in order, and you have a little more experience with the classics.
finally someone in the comment section with some sense. obviously something is up. he went from working on late model cars to this pile of shit. this car has 0 money making potential.
@@13christbane Yeah, And to be clear ... 30 years ago (give or take), I was working for my Dad's electrical shop, and decided I wanted to step out of the nest on my own. So if that's the case here, I can fully understand the situation, and I support it. But, when I left a fully equipped shop that was doing multi-million dollar projects, I started off wiring houses, not shopping malls. I just hope the pressure of making TH-cam content isn't getting in the way of reality here. It probably would be better to stick with what you know and do best, than to dive into unknown waters
you may want to save the VIN off the aprons and set them aside to keep with the car. they are not stamped anywhere else on the car. the door data plate, if it's even there, isn't the "legal" VIN for the car.
Those grinders come with a guard. Would be safer to put it on in case the blade breaks . The guard keeps the operator from being hit with broken blade pieces.
@@fatdaddygaming9102 yeah, it gets in the way of you having fingers 🤣 if something snaggs. If you want to use 1 grinder for multiple size disks I guess this works, but definitely not safe.
Just to add to this and looking out for your safety, grinding wheels are supposed to go on with the writing facing upward so that the direction of rotation is correct, running them upside down runs the risk of the wheel exploding! been there done that and like Josh Buchanan - pointed out nearly took my finger off.
If the ball joints are bolt in, they've been replaced. All original ball joints in those early Fords were riveted in from the factory. Back in the day, I did a lot of ball joint replacements on the mid 60's Fords. Should either get your own sand blasting setup or have someone sand blast that engine bay so you know what you're dealing with. God bless and stay well.
You’ll save a lot of time and frustration if you buy a Heidts or similar subframe, one that has the correct geometry engineered into it..not to mention how much better it will drive.
The aprons being weak is normal. And they are not flat from factory. Pass side isn’t even straight from the factory. It has a curve that’s covered by the fender while the drivers side is a little more straight. I’d still replace them, it’s not hard but don’t expect the new ones to be much stronger. You have to take the aprons off anyways to replace the firewall. These were cheap cars when they where built. Engine is likely a 302. 302 is just a stroked 289. There are a lot more 302 out there than 289s and it was common to convert 260s or 289s to 302. The only people who want 289s are concourse restorations. You can turn a 289 into a 302 and nobody will know since the only difference is the crank and connecting rods.
Awsome content! Old mustangs are notorious for rusting out the lower cowl hat vents. The small drain holes in the lower cowl that you mentioned absolutely are easy to get clogged up by debris and crap trapping water around those cowl hats. A good seam sealer around the base of the hats and a good coat of paint throughout the lower cowl prior to welding the upper cowl back on = years of not worrying about rust. Can't wait to see the coyote get stuffed in that engine bay
First of all I really admire your enthusiasm and motivation and this is a fantastic channel. But please understand the route you're taking with this one is by no means a quick, simple or cheap undertaking. Think hard about whether this is the right direction for this car or whether you could possibly be jumping the gun. I would strongly recommend this being a 289/302 resto and the fastback being the learning curve. I build hotrods and classics so I understand the process. Whatever you decide I'll still be here enjoying the content. Good luck!
The Mustangs of that era didn’t have a V6 engine, it was a straight 6. If you’re going to make that car a beast, I suggest you put a Ford Barra in it. It leaves a lot of room for turbo, for example, but the price of the engine may place some restrictions on its choice.
I read the Comments,and 1 person mentioned the torsional strength of the body.You Have to find the strongest under body sub-frame weld in ties to the rear too.Can't wait to see more.Have fun!
Well it was another stellar day at V- Tuned garage ! Looks like ya still need todo sum shopping , mechanics chair , creeper , floor jack, engine puller , a bag of pretzels and some cold ones 👍. Keep up the great vid’s ,this is a cool build 👍✌️
You're doing a fantastic job by taking all the old stuff off and putting all new stuff back on. Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family. 💪🏼💯🙏🙏👍👍✌😊✌
Vtuned is ambitious for this mustang. But I might have to point out that if you are replacing the engine bay with new pieces, i could be wrong here isn't that a Cut n Shut where you are welding a new structural piece to the car? Wouldn't that compromise the structural integrity of the car? Other than that, the videos give good Vibes and love the enthusiasm. Maybe for the brakes, I highly recommend going with some kind of brake kit. Maybe do a rear drum to disc conversion and upgrade the front to a big brake kit. Possibly Brembo, Stoptech, Sparta, Willwood. Keep it up Vtuned!
If he does it right, he wont cut the panels off but rather remove them completely from the vehicule by drilling out the old spot welds. Using a mig welder, he'll be able to mimick the factory spot welds to put the new panels in place so it will be as strong if not stronger than factory. When people do it wrong is when they cut panels and join them to other cut panels, so the weld isn't that strong and can lead to issues.
Enjoying the more regular uploads. Just keep doing what you enjoy and keep being yourself and ignore the haters and pressure you put on yourself and you’ll not get burnt out again with this new format!
Ben, those aprons were originally flimsy and not straight or perfect. I have restored several mustangs. Just straighten them with a hammer and dolly. They are not meant for any structural support. The frame, shock towers and cross braces are what provided the support. Once you put the shock tower delete plates with accompanying cross braces in, it will be super strong. Don’t bother replacing the bottom of the cowl if you don’t need to. Just clean it and treat it with Por-15 or rust encapsulator. Save yourself a bunch of headaches. Any knowledgeable classic mustang person would tell you the same.
Love that you do your own garage now. Hope to see a lot more during the weeks! Keep the good work up. Be blessed and healthy in this new year! Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
There is a company that makes a hole tubular front clips to replace everything from the firewall out as far as frame and mounts go! Can't remember the name of it though 😆
Shout out to the camera man! Your b-roll camera work is awesome! I like interesting shots that really show different angles of the car. A lot of times content creators forget to keep the viewer captivated.
you will have to replace all the fire damaged steel, when the steel is made it is cold forged so it work hardens, the fire has distempered it, un hardened it, now it will be soft as tissue paper, and about as structural as tissue as well.
Don’t forget that the VIN is stamped into the inner fender apron so make sure it’s documented properly so that there will not be any registration issues later on.
Drum brakes were standard for that year mustang. Everything was an option, Radio, Heater, Disc brakes, ac, power brakes. One thing to note- your vin most likely denotes a T (T code.) That muastang is a V8 clone. 6 Cylinder mustangs ( all 6 cyl fords of that time) used 4 lug wheels, Not 5.
Seems like a blessing in disguise that this car caught fire. Gives you an opportunity to make this car right at the very least! First of, the last shop left everything else stock on that car when doing the V8 swap. Then you're finding more and more cut corners with the restoration on top of it.
Right!! I couldn't believe it was "restored" and motor swapped but had 4 lugs and stock suspension smfh. It's definitely gonna be sick if he completes it
@@fatdaddygaming9102 The biggest issue I've seen are the stock drum brakes. Even the master cylinder is the stock single reservoir one without a booster. Sure, leave the suspension stock, but at least upgrade the brakes!
Vtune great job on the Mustang! CJ Pony parts has something you might want to look at. AJE Colt 65 Suspension Kit part # SUSK65-V it is around $1800 which is more affordable than some I was looking at! Anyhow there are some good suspension options out there to make your Mustang into an amazing machine. As always I am looking forward to the next video!
You're a young guy with a huge career ahead of you. One safety & health tip because I want to see you do this forever.... Wear some hyflex gloves. Isolate your skin from the toxic crap. All these things add up long term.
While you're at HF pick up some flat dollies to put engines on, or the parts to build some beefier dollies that lift and rotate engines to make them easier to work on.
when you buy the jack, maybe get some actual pins for the engine lift and then you can use the ratchets and extensions for what they are meant for again.
The driver apron has the VIN. So check local laws on that. Pull a valve cover and it will literally say '289' or '302'. Before you buy aprons, you need a front kit like Fred Garvin said in the comments. Start looking for 5 lug axles (from a mid 90s Explorer so you can go disc brakes).
Happy New Year to you Ben and best of luck with the shop and builds✌️Seems we have a comment section with jealous wise asses...guess they were born with a beard and a beer in the hand. Tools and everything else will come with time...just do what you do V tuned and camera man...keep em coming👍
Really liking how it’s going so far, selling off those unnecessary items will help some and the coil overs are a great idea. I’m curious tho, when you going to get that lift wired up so you can actually use it, would come in handy.
Check the vin number on the aprons before you junk them, it will give you an idea of what the car is, also is the data plate on the driver door piller, that the key to original. Also do some serious checking for numbers on the engine. Keep in mind for a export brace and monte carlo bar.
best guess looking at the engine, trans and wheels, along with the drum brakes, this thing was made to be a cruiser not a performer with probably a 215 horsepower 289 under the hood and i would check to see if its got metalic lining for the brakes, as the drums work well enough, its just when under repeated and performance based use they would boil and fail, and that's one of the modern ways to get around that, and actually the corvette back in the 50's up until the early 60's on the C2 actually used them and they tried all kinds of finwork to cool them under race conditions and some people actually prefered them to the discs when they got to the C2 generation as the thing people forget about discs, is that discs kinda sucked back then where they would leak and give you all kinds of trouble with setting them up and getting them to work right on the american cars, especially the corvette until the mid 80's with the C4 which might explain why you would hear of disc and drum cars instead of all round discs like what came latter when they became reliable on most american cars, while on the exotics they would often outsource to companies like Girling and the like for their disc brakes and fit them to everything like porsche, jag ferrari, and even lotus all had Girling Disc Brakes fitted to them, while here in america we tried to go our own way, and failed and we didnt exactly have a reason to continue on development until the imports came in give the idiotic speed laws that were enacted with the 55 mph speedlimit to of all things promote better fuel economy, but hey, that's a demorat dumbas's like Jimmy carter for ya, that ment you only had to stop from 55 on the highway, while in europe it was 105 to 110 on the autobahn on average so the cars had to hold and grab, and stop at those speeds vs ours not being able to really even do 90 without feeling like the front is lifting up and about to slide off the road, a very real thing and issue with the 55 T bird actually so a front chin spoiler might not be a bad thing to fit to this, given its in the same family really, granted I dont know if the aerodynamics are anywhere near that bad given I've never heard of the mustang doing that really.
Annealing is the process of heating metal and letting it cool at its own leisure, thereby softening (Weakening it) and changing its structure - If its all heated up and quenched, it will restore it to its grain structure and strength - sadly yours is toast - replace it all or the integrity of the build will be severely compromised for strength.
You should check out, Total Control Products Subframe Clip Firewall-Length For Tubular Sway Bar With Small Block Engine Mounts 1965-1966 Would fix your shock tower problem and your apron problem.
This looks exactly like a fast flip corner shop deal. They bought a good condition 6 cylinder car, swapped the engine, gave it some shiny paint and rims, and sent it on down the road for a big, big profit from someone trying to relive their youth. Problem is as you noted, drum brakes are just not safe at all for even a mild V8. As for the damage, well.. let's just say that you can pretty much cut out the firewall and everything else forward and replace it. Thankfully (as you know) all of those body panels and parts are available and being made, so you can rebuild the front back to as good ro better than stock and have a really nice, properly done V8 car.
I’d replace those aprons. They are likely warped and weakened. In terms of cost and labor, it’s worth it to not cut corners and know it was done correctly.
I have to agree with many other comments here, new front clip and get one that's Coyote ready, too much warpage and unknown/questionable metal strength with what's left, cut it out and replace it don't take the chance. And to those that want to turn this into a fastback, why? He already has one right next to it and I doubt it's going to add a lot of value to a salvage fire car either way. I think he can take what he learns on this project and apply it to the fastback. I'd make the fastback a manual though if you're planning on making this one an automatic.
This is turning into a lot more work. At this point with what you want to replace, you might as well cut of the entire front clip including the fire wall. Dropping the engine you want in there is no walk in the park, tons of metal work and making the right pieces fir in order to make them function as they should. You're almost to the point of where you are with the other Mustang, and you know that isn't getting finished.
Guess I'm the only one who thinks the Mustang should be rebuilt OEM with the 6-cylinder engine, the present suspension, and neat wheels, etc. But a really nice leather interior and paint job.
It would be much better if you just combine both mustang builds in 1. Use fast back parts on this mustang sinch you will be replacing roof anyways. Plus 2 mustang builds won't attract more viewers. Finish this build and get an exciting new build. Btw love your content 💕
I would try to save the apron’s,one reason your vin is on right side of top apron in front of the shock tower,by law you need that vin to stay with the car and not remove and not welded on,if car is inspected,they will throw up red flag.do your homework,slow and steady don’t get in hurry.great video,carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Just wish you would de-grease / pressure wash the floor at night before you head home, makes a big difference to come in to a clean floor at the start of the day. Oh, and how about not throwing your tools around on the greasy floor. I recall telling my apprentices back in the day, just because you`re a mechanic doesn`t mean you have to be greasy. A small light sand blasting on the inner cowl would prob show you the condition better.
I was telling you about the casting numbers. You have to kinda lay on the ground to see them, when the motor is on the ground. It's behind the motor mount, between it and the block, a couple inches up from where the oil pan bolts on. The spot they are cast on, points directly at the floor, so you can't see them from the side. Hope this helps some brother! It's more than likely a 289, but it could very well be a 302. They are the exact same block. The casting will tell you what it started life as. But the only difference is the stroke, on the crank. The blocks are identical.
I know its possible to make a front suspension for the Coyote swap but the TCI type with the rack and pinion steering and disc brakes would be a great upgrade and its also a neat install. I was wondering if you are going to replace the inner wings whether you can buy some for the Coyote swap without the original shock towers. It would look much neater than welding panels over the cut away shock tower holes.
If you take the intake off, if it is a 289 it will be stamped on the block under the intake, I learned that today by looking at a 66 mustang that had a 289
They did a Splash and dash. A 1965 Mustang inline 6 is much cheaper than buying an original 289 Mustang. And whoever the insurance company that paid out 20 grand they really didn't have anyone look at that Mustang. I had a 66 Mustang with a inline 6 I went to the junkyard and bought the suspension out of a 1976 Ford Granada which has the exact same suspension but it had disc brakes and the power steering system. I pulled them out of it and I had a really nice inline six 66 Mustang the power steering and disc brakes
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want to fit a Coyote in that car, you need a front suspension kit from TCI, or Heidt's that includes the entire front suspension and disk brakes that moves the shock towers out away from the wheels. It's a coil-over setup that makes the suspension much more compact.
No bro he can just make it out of sheet metal and hopes and dreams.
@@michaelcurley989 lmao like the first one he made
@@michaelcurley989 A floor jack and the lift would go a long way.
rod and custom motorsports makes a kit as well
@@MrUltraworld I totally agree with you on the TCI kit with the coil-overs. I hope he goes a step further and beefs-up the front rails to handle the torque. Did you happen to notice what the differential looks like? I'm guessing that it's on the weak side too. Early Stang's used the same chassis set-up as the Falcon.
Swapping out all those fire weakened pieces of sheet metal is absolutely the right thing to do. Even if you're 'gut' told you that maybe this or that piece would be ok. Better safe and not have a weak link built into your restoration.
The metal on my brother's car, after the Ventura fires of 2017, was bendable like a coat hanger. Same with his tools, all hardening completely gone to the point you could just fold wrenches over on themselves like putty.
Side note: all that work to turn it back into a straight-six secretaries' car is way beyond whack. Make it what you want to have fun with and enjoy.
Small fire no problem. A car that crispy? Also unibody ya it needs some panels
Before removing the aprons, check for the VINs on the top of each apron. The one on the left apron is near the top middle, the one on the right is on top towards the back near the cowl. These VINs are the OFFICIAL ones for the title. The VIN on the door tag is NOT official for title purposes because the door can be replaced. You may want to find a way to integrate the VIN sections into your replacement panels.
If you remove the VINs totally you could FUBAR any chances of selling this Mustang in the future.
Just as little side note: Wilwood makes a reinforcement for where the brake master cylinder mounts. Those firewalls can have a lot of flex in them even under the best conditions. The guy who does Four Speed Films on TH-cam installed it on his similar vehicle and it really makes a difference in braking and pedal feel.
Listen to this man on this, you will wish you had if ya don't.
I guess. I’ve had more than a few of these cars, and I never really noticed significant flex. Maybe in a race car I can see it, but I don’t think it’s mandatory.
Thanks for the note, I checked out his vids. He's got some great cars and even better production quality.
@@TX_Blake Thats fine. But here is video proof. Everyone has do what makes them happy for their car. th-cam.com/video/eXAGqWOpmXQ/w-d-xo.html
@@ivycycles yeah I’ve seen that video. I’m not saying it’s a complete waste of time, I just don’t think it’s an absolute necessity as it is being described here.
This 65 Mustang was originally an inline six, I had one in high school. The hubs are all four bolts, if you want to run a big V8, you also need to replace the rear end. That is a six cylinder rear end, and when you pop the clutch it will blow the rear end or the snap the ubolts on the drive shaft. Ask me how I know? I installed a heavily modified 289 in mine, and went out for the first run to burn a little rubber and boom. I went to a junk yard and picked up a replacement rear end from a wrecked V8 mustang.
Russ is absolutly right, it was a I6, the four bolts hubs is the proof ! Unstoppable...
No, you could also get a 289!!! S friend has a matching numbers 1965 stang, with a 289!!
Mustangs to fear makes a really nice entire front clip with the fender aprons, rad support, frame rails, and front suspension without the shock towers. Just replace your firewall and cowl panels with stock replacement pieces and put the kit on it
Some thought from an old fart here, who has done this before. Look around at the various manufacturers of front suspension packages and Coyote swap kits for this car, and find one you like, and buy everything from them. Do not try to piece together suspension or swap kit parts from different manufacturers/suppliers, you will wind up frustrated as heck. These different suppliers do not build their pieces to fit with other companies stuff, this isn't like just buying a new strut rod for a 65 Mustang, you are doing a complete redesign and engineering of the front suspension. When you are talking to Heidts or whomever ask them if they know of anyone who has used their package and Coyote swapped it in a 65-66 Mustang.
Ask lots of questions, get the answers that fit your plans, and buy once, have one source to go to if you have a problem, one source for replacement parts, etc. Save yourself a ton of headaches. also...Drum brakes were used for decades with V--8s in cars twice as heavy as that Mustang and they worked just fine. Yes, for performance applications Disc is better, but drums, when maintained correctly and adjusted up were perfectly safe. Not bustin' yer nuts, V-tuned, just tryin' to help you understand this old iron.
Agree. I was 11 when my 66 came out and I always wanted one and now do. But the work I put into mine is nothing like he will be doing. Research research!
You must be new to the channel. This guy doesn’t ask questions or make plans, he just picks up the grinder and starts cutting til there’s nothing left.
I have a question with the original suspension an optional reinforcement bar was added between the shock towers at the top on each side it Stabilized the top of the shock towers and improved handling. This was standard on Shelby GT350’s and factory race cars and I believe it was on R code cars also does the new suspension only bolt to the sub frame and not have the flex issue in corners I know the shock towers are eliminated the issue in the original suspension but the entire engine compartment must have been flexing or just the aprons were deforming individually but the reinforcement bar locked them together
I started a 65 fastback back in the mid 80’s I looked at the brakes and found three choices go with the original, upgrade to Shelby GT350 or go Disc then two choices stock or Shelby. The steering I had a pro built 302 so the shock towers wasn’t an issue I was going with a Shelby road race quick steering suspension with Koni shocks. The suspension parts were Ford off the shelf I was lucky the top Ford speed shop in the country at the time was 90 minutes away and stocked the parts. The rear leaf springs were replaced with the with the Shelby ones. I recommend this setup it’s not that much more money and it’s gives you that rack and pinion go cart feel. The nice thing is VToon can buy a disc brake 9” for a 65 Mustang he wants a 65 or 66 Mustang because the differentials overall Length is about 2” shorter than a 68-73 one they used the 65 differential in newer Fords because the spring mounting pads are the same distance but with the factory narrower differential you could gain about an inch of clearance with a bolt in.
Absolutely!! Your quality of work and skill is worth far more to the finished product than saving $140 not replacing aprons. So go for it! In fact, I'm surprised previous shop and owner were so cheap. That they would not replace brakes with new drums instead of disc's in the first place.
If you're gonna do it, do it right and replace both inner fenders, radiator support, firewall and cowl, then you don't have to worry about the structural integrity of the front end.
He's got to make sure the front frame rails are structurally sound as well. Of they're not, then he might be screwed...
@@Thraser999 they should be replaced with the rest of the front end
haha, this kid just rebuilt a mclaren , i bet he will knock this lil mustang out with ease and have no trouble replacing several parts.
The car will be trash when ripping out the shock towers
@@nascarman38n88 Well, he's got to remove them, to install new ones for another suspension, maybe even replace the front frame entirely. We'll see...
Always great to watch Vtuned & Goonzquad. They don’t waste time. They get down to business and wrench.
I noticed that when you pulled the engine that all the tranny fluid poured out the end, I used to stop that problem by taping a sandwich bag over the end , saved a lot of clean up.
I just hope that you understand exactly what you are getting into here. You don't just "drop" a coyote engine into an early Mustang. There is a ton of fabrication, and there is a TON of cost involved. I keep hearing you talk about trying to save $100 parts ... but you are going to need about 10 grand just in subframes, suspension, and brake parts. The uni-frame on the car will have to be reinforced. The car will absolutely have to be caged, or it will twist into a pretzel.
You REALLY need to pause for a minute, and take a look at this project, and decide if it's really what you need to be doing, right now. Obviously, there is a LOT more to the story of the new shop than what we have been told. And that's fine, because it's probably personal, and it's family, and that's none of anyone's business but yours. But let's just be honest here. You don't have a floor jack. You have a handful of tools. You may have a ton of experience with more modern cars, but you clearly don't have experience with older one's.
This may seem harsh, and it kinda is. But I would rather take some hate in the comments than see you go 0 for 3 with classic Mustangs, because you obviously have a dream of building one. Maybe it would be better to just rebuild this one back with a "standard" 302, and save the full blown swap for later when the shop is better equipped, finances are more in order, and you have a little more experience with the classics.
finally someone in the comment section with some sense. obviously something is up. he went from working on late model cars to this pile of shit. this car has 0 money making potential.
@@13christbane Yeah, And to be clear ... 30 years ago (give or take), I was working for my Dad's electrical shop, and decided I wanted to step out of the nest on my own. So if that's the case here, I can fully understand the situation, and I support it. But, when I left a fully equipped shop that was doing multi-million dollar projects, I started off wiring houses, not shopping malls. I just hope the pressure of making TH-cam content isn't getting in the way of reality here. It probably would be better to stick with what you know and do best, than to dive into unknown waters
@@13christbane I wouldn't argue with you but I think he's building a keeper...hellfire Ben has loved Mustangs since he was 12 on a school bus lol.
He’s aware, probably haven’t seen his other videos.
@@trainmanbob he should and could have picked a much better car than a basic 6 cyl mustang that had the front end ruined by fire.
you may want to save the VIN off the aprons and set them aside to keep with the car. they are not stamped anywhere else on the car. the door data plate, if it's even there, isn't the "legal" VIN for the car.
Those grinders come with a guard. Would be safer to put it on in case the blade breaks . The guard keeps the operator from being hit with broken blade pieces.
This
Have you ever used a grinder? Not to seem like a complete idiot but way better without a guard. The guard gets in the way man lol
@@fatdaddygaming9102 yeah, it gets in the way of you having fingers 🤣 if something snaggs. If you want to use 1 grinder for multiple size disks I guess this works, but definitely not safe.
@@fatdaddygaming9102 look no further than the Josh fella on the moonshiners show. Cut off wheel exploded and cut his index finger off, at the knuckle.
Just to add to this and looking out for your safety, grinding wheels are supposed to go on with the writing facing upward so that the direction of rotation is correct, running them upside down runs the risk of the wheel exploding! been there done that and like Josh Buchanan - pointed out nearly took my finger off.
If the ball joints are bolt in, they've been replaced. All original ball joints in those early Fords were riveted in from the factory. Back in the day, I did a lot of ball joint replacements on the mid 60's Fords. Should either get your own sand blasting setup or have someone sand blast that engine bay so you know what you're dealing with. God bless and stay well.
Agree on the ball joints. My 66 are bolt ons
You’ll save a lot of time and frustration if you buy a Heidts or similar subframe, one that has the correct geometry engineered into it..not to mention how much better it will drive.
The aprons being weak is normal. And they are not flat from factory. Pass side isn’t even straight from the factory. It has a curve that’s covered by the fender while the drivers side is a little more straight. I’d still replace them, it’s not hard but don’t expect the new ones to be much stronger. You have to take the aprons off anyways to replace the firewall.
These were cheap cars when they where built.
Engine is likely a 302. 302 is just a stroked 289. There are a lot more 302 out there than 289s and it was common to convert 260s or 289s to 302.
The only people who want 289s are concourse restorations. You can turn a 289 into a 302 and nobody will know since the only difference is the crank and connecting rods.
It is really cool to see you having your own place and doing your own thing.
Awsome content! Old mustangs are notorious for rusting out the lower cowl hat vents. The small drain holes in the lower cowl that you mentioned absolutely are easy to get clogged up by debris and crap trapping water around those cowl hats. A good seam sealer around the base of the hats and a good coat of paint throughout the lower cowl prior to welding the upper cowl back on = years of not worrying about rust. Can't wait to see the coyote get stuffed in that engine bay
First of all I really admire your enthusiasm and motivation and this is a fantastic channel. But please understand the route you're taking with this one is by no means a quick, simple or cheap undertaking. Think hard about whether this is the right direction for this car or whether you could possibly be jumping the gun. I would strongly recommend this being a 289/302 resto and the fastback being the learning curve. I build hotrods and classics so I understand the process. Whatever you decide I'll still be here enjoying the content. Good luck!
That's it. That's how the videos should be. You kept your word of uploading videos daily. Hope these continue. 😎
daily uploads of 4 hours worth of work and a bunch of stupid slow mo shots etc.
@@13christbane doesn't matter. Be it 1hr of work. Content is content. I fucking work all day. All i have is things like these to watch.
The Mustangs of that era didn’t have a V6 engine, it was a straight 6. If you’re going to make that car a beast, I suggest you put a Ford Barra in it. It leaves a lot of room for turbo, for example, but the price of the engine may place some restrictions on its choice.
My dude's not really a mechanic, though. A full custom engine build and swap may be out of his league.
They're not that expensive. You can find them for $2k or under all day.
Ohh plz no not another barra swap sick of seeing barra swaps just let him do what his doing it's gotta have that v8 rumble it's a stang
@amusingcouch you need to read R2-D2 comment properly ,he didn't say they didn't he said they didn't come with a V6
I read the Comments,and 1 person mentioned the torsional strength of the body.You Have to find the strongest under body sub-frame weld in ties to the rear too.Can't wait to see more.Have fun!
Can't wait to see how this build turns out, keep up the great work!
Well it was another stellar day at V- Tuned garage ! Looks like ya still need todo sum shopping , mechanics chair , creeper , floor jack, engine puller , a bag of pretzels and some cold ones 👍. Keep up the great vid’s ,this is a cool build 👍✌️
You're doing a fantastic job by taking all the old stuff off and putting all new stuff back on. Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family. 💪🏼💯🙏🙏👍👍✌😊✌
Vtuned is ambitious for this mustang. But I might have to point out that if you are replacing the engine bay with new pieces, i could be wrong here isn't that a Cut n Shut where you are welding a new structural piece to the car? Wouldn't that compromise the structural integrity of the car? Other than that, the videos give good Vibes and love the enthusiasm.
Maybe for the brakes, I highly recommend going with some kind of brake kit. Maybe do a rear drum to disc conversion and upgrade the front to a big brake kit. Possibly Brembo, Stoptech, Sparta, Willwood.
Keep it up Vtuned!
If he does it right, he wont cut the panels off but rather remove them completely from the vehicule by drilling out the old spot welds. Using a mig welder, he'll be able to mimick the factory spot welds to put the new panels in place so it will be as strong if not stronger than factory. When people do it wrong is when they cut panels and join them to other cut panels, so the weld isn't that strong and can lead to issues.
Notice the vin number should be stamped on the top section of the apron. Save them.
coming together little by little can’t wait to see the finished product👍🏼
Enjoying the more regular uploads. Just keep doing what you enjoy and keep being yourself and ignore the haters and pressure you put on yourself and you’ll not get burnt out again with this new format!
Ben, those aprons were originally flimsy and not straight or perfect. I have restored several mustangs. Just straighten them with a hammer and dolly. They are not meant for any structural support. The frame, shock towers and cross braces are what provided the support. Once you put the shock tower delete plates with accompanying cross braces in, it will be super strong.
Don’t bother replacing the bottom of the cowl if you don’t need to. Just clean it and treat it with Por-15 or rust encapsulator. Save yourself a bunch of headaches. Any knowledgeable classic mustang person would tell you the same.
I had cowl leak on my 67 30 year ago.....so cool to finally see the inner workings of what gave my rugs so wet a long time ago
Love that you do your own garage now. Hope to see a lot more during the weeks! Keep the good work up. Be blessed and healthy in this new year! Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
There is a company that makes a hole tubular front clips to replace everything from the firewall out as far as frame and mounts go! Can't remember the name of it though 😆
Recommend you add front wheel well torque boxes. The 5.0 will stress the front end and firewall. Ford added them in I think 1967.
They were also part of every convertible and Shelby.
VTuned EVERY.DAY.
What a time to be alive!
Good drinking game, every time he says rust, take a sip lol
17:15 when you're out, pick up some fire extinguishers too......just in case.......
Twin Turbo V6 Eco boost would be awesome! Leave the Coyote for the fastback.
Inline 6... not v6.
Shout out to the camera man! Your b-roll camera work is awesome! I like interesting shots that really show different angles of the car. A lot of times content creators forget to keep the viewer captivated.
The new content youre putting out is 🔥. Older content was 🔥 too. You seem more relaxed and finally showing some of your true self. Keep it up buddy.
you will have to replace all the fire damaged steel, when the steel is made it is cold forged so it work hardens, the fire has distempered it, un hardened it, now it will be soft as tissue paper, and about as structural as tissue as well.
Great work...just be more careful when pulling coil springs out. You could hurt yourself or your camera man who was right in the line of fire.
Don’t forget that the VIN is stamped into the inner fender apron so make sure it’s documented properly so that there will not be any registration issues later on.
Almost looks like it was a budget build on the underside. Just concentrated on the bling. You'll do a good job on this is a fun build 👍👍.
This guy is pushing videos out like a beast! He must be super excited to work on this car everyday
Drum brakes were standard for that year mustang. Everything was an option, Radio, Heater, Disc brakes, ac, power brakes. One thing to note- your vin most likely denotes a T (T code.) That muastang is a V8 clone. 6 Cylinder mustangs ( all 6 cyl fords of that time) used 4 lug wheels, Not 5.
Seems like a blessing in disguise that this car caught fire. Gives you an opportunity to make this car right at the very least!
First of, the last shop left everything else stock on that car when doing the V8 swap. Then you're finding more and more cut corners with the restoration on top of it.
Right!! I couldn't believe it was "restored" and motor swapped but had 4 lugs and stock suspension smfh. It's definitely gonna be sick if he completes it
@@fatdaddygaming9102 The biggest issue I've seen are the stock drum brakes. Even the master cylinder is the stock single reservoir one without a booster. Sure, leave the suspension stock, but at least upgrade the brakes!
Vtune great job on the Mustang! CJ Pony parts has something you might want to look at. AJE Colt 65 Suspension Kit part # SUSK65-V it is around $1800 which is more affordable than some I was looking at! Anyhow there are some good suspension options out there to make your Mustang into an amazing machine. As always I am looking forward to the next video!
You're a young guy with a huge career ahead of you. One safety & health tip because I want to see you do this forever.... Wear some hyflex gloves. Isolate your skin from the toxic crap. All these things add up long term.
While you're at HF pick up some flat dollies to put engines on, or the parts to build some beefier dollies that lift and rotate engines to make them easier to work on.
when you buy the jack, maybe get some actual pins for the engine lift and then you can use the ratchets and extensions for what they are meant for again.
Ben, there’s too many experts on here.id let you fix my car any day you’ve got a ton of experience from the uk
The driver apron has the VIN. So check local laws on that. Pull a valve cover and it will literally say '289' or '302'. Before you buy aprons, you need a front kit like Fred Garvin said in the comments. Start looking for 5 lug axles (from a mid 90s Explorer so you can go disc brakes).
Come on folks don't ever think that Ben s not going to make this mustang a great car, good video .👍
I am so glad your using that Wilwaukee Light now instead of your $1000 phone. That light is very nice.
Happy New Year to you Ben and best of luck with the shop and builds✌️Seems we have a comment section with jealous wise asses...guess they were born with a beard and a beer in the hand. Tools and everything else will come with time...just do what you do V tuned and camera man...keep em coming👍
Really liking how it’s going so far, selling off those unnecessary items will help some and the coil overs are a great idea. I’m curious tho, when you going to get that lift wired up so you can actually use it, would come in handy.
Looks great, would look even better sandblasted & primed.
Just do a full tubular front end it would give you so much more room for the swap and other stuff in engine bay
If it isn't an off the shelf item, it would just put this mustang in the same position as the other..
You will need to change the rear suspension as it is far to light for a large power v8
Check the vin number on the aprons before you junk them, it will give you an idea of what the car is, also is the data plate on the driver door piller, that the key to original. Also do some serious checking for numbers on the engine. Keep in mind for a export brace and monte carlo bar.
best guess looking at the engine, trans and wheels, along with the drum brakes, this thing was made to be a cruiser not a performer with probably a 215 horsepower 289 under the hood and i would check to see if its got metalic lining for the brakes, as the drums work well enough, its just when under repeated and performance based use they would boil and fail, and that's one of the modern ways to get around that, and actually the corvette back in the 50's up until the early 60's on the C2 actually used them and they tried all kinds of finwork to cool them under race conditions
and some people actually prefered them to the discs when they got to the C2 generation
as the thing people forget about discs, is that discs kinda sucked back then where they would leak and give you all kinds of trouble with setting them up and getting them to work right on the american cars, especially the corvette until the mid 80's with the C4
which might explain why you would hear of disc and drum cars instead of all round discs like what came latter when they became reliable on most american cars, while on the exotics they would often outsource to companies like Girling and the like for their disc brakes and fit them to everything
like porsche, jag ferrari, and even lotus all had Girling Disc Brakes fitted to them, while here in america we tried to go our own way, and failed
and we didnt exactly have a reason to continue on development until the imports came in give the idiotic speed laws that were enacted with the 55 mph speedlimit to of all things promote better fuel economy, but hey, that's a demorat dumbas's like Jimmy carter for ya, that ment you only had to stop from 55 on the highway, while in europe it was 105 to 110 on the autobahn on average
so the cars had to hold and grab, and stop at those speeds vs ours not being able to really even do 90 without feeling like the front is lifting up and about to slide off the road, a very real thing and issue with the 55 T bird actually
so a front chin spoiler might not be a bad thing to fit to this, given its in the same family really, granted I dont know if the aerodynamics are anywhere near that bad given I've never heard of the mustang doing that really.
Annealing is the process of heating metal and letting it cool at its own leisure, thereby softening (Weakening it) and changing its structure - If its all heated up and quenched, it will restore it to its grain structure and strength - sadly yours is toast - replace it all or the integrity of the build will be severely compromised for strength.
But do you think the frame also get heated to the point of no return
You should check out, Total Control Products Subframe Clip Firewall-Length For Tubular Sway Bar With Small Block Engine Mounts 1965-1966
Would fix your shock tower problem and your apron problem.
This looks exactly like a fast flip corner shop deal. They bought a good condition 6 cylinder car, swapped the engine, gave it some shiny paint and rims, and sent it on down the road for a big, big profit from someone trying to relive their youth. Problem is as you noted, drum brakes are just not safe at all for even a mild V8. As for the damage, well.. let's just say that you can pretty much cut out the firewall and everything else forward and replace it. Thankfully (as you know) all of those body panels and parts are available and being made, so you can rebuild the front back to as good ro better than stock and have a really nice, properly done V8 car.
Just to satisfy yourself so you know if you check the 5th digit of the vin number. If it's a T that means the car came with a 200 inline 6
It's great that you have the vision to put this car back together, a lot of work but great content.
and theyre goes mustang number two hopefully it doesnt wind up on a stand with no frame again
I’d replace those aprons. They are likely warped and weakened. In terms of cost and labor, it’s worth it to not cut corners and know it was done correctly.
If your ever in DC area need some help putting headers on ‘06 mustang. Great video as usual. Thank you.
Great job getting it ready looks in good condition to fix get that cleaned up and put that new engine the car dentist lol
I have to agree with many other comments here, new front clip and get one that's Coyote ready, too much warpage and unknown/questionable metal strength with what's left, cut it out and replace it don't take the chance.
And to those that want to turn this into a fastback, why? He already has one right next to it and I doubt it's going to add a lot of value to a salvage fire car either way. I think he can take what he learns on this project and apply it to the fastback. I'd make the fastback a manual though if you're planning on making this one an automatic.
I love like watching TH-cam shows vtuned big fan of vtuned very good work on car
Bro lot of guys saying put a 6 cylinder back in "its kinda whack" freaking greatness. Lets go coyote swap
This is turning into a lot more work. At this point with what you want to replace, you might as well cut of the entire front clip including the fire wall. Dropping the engine you want in there is no walk in the park, tons of metal work and making the right pieces fir in order to make them function as they should. You're almost to the point of where you are with the other Mustang, and you know that isn't getting finished.
"I want to make this thing perfect - well, not perfect but really good." Got a laugh from that line.
Guess I'm the only one who thinks the Mustang should be rebuilt OEM with the 6-cylinder engine, the present suspension, and neat wheels, etc. But a really nice leather interior and paint job.
It would be much better if you just combine both mustang builds in 1. Use fast back parts on this mustang sinch you will be replacing roof anyways. Plus 2 mustang builds won't attract more viewers. Finish this build and get an exciting new build. Btw love your content 💕
I'd definitely replace those aprons. The fire most likely weakened that metal in those areas. Better safe then sorry.
Next Is the mclaren simulator tub Hope so!
I would try to save the apron’s,one reason your vin is on right side of top apron in front of the shock tower,by law you need that vin to stay with the car and not remove and not welded on,if car is inspected,they will throw up red flag.do your homework,slow and steady don’t get in hurry.great video,carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
only a moron would try to repair the aprons.
@@13christbane well I guess I’m the moron,only been building cars for 40 years
Tunes it’s good to see you working again. It definitely looks like your happy
Drop the sump plug and see what comes out
Oil or oil and water. ?
Just wish you would de-grease / pressure wash the floor at night before you head home, makes a big difference to come in to a clean floor at the start of the day. Oh, and how about not throwing your tools around on the greasy floor. I recall telling my apprentices back in the day, just because you`re a mechanic doesn`t mean you have to be greasy. A small light sand blasting on the inner cowl would prob show you the condition better.
I was telling you about the casting numbers. You have to kinda lay on the ground to see them, when the motor is on the ground. It's behind the motor mount, between it and the block, a couple inches up from where the oil pan bolts on. The spot they are cast on, points directly at the floor, so you can't see them from the side. Hope this helps some brother! It's more than likely a 289, but it could very well be a 302. They are the exact same block. The casting will tell you what it started life as. But the only difference is the stroke, on the crank. The blocks are identical.
I know its possible to make a front suspension for the Coyote swap but the TCI type with the rack and pinion steering and disc brakes would be a great upgrade and its also a neat install. I was wondering if you are going to replace the inner wings whether you can buy some for the Coyote swap without the original shock towers. It would look much neater than welding panels over the cut away shock tower holes.
I’ve been following you and the goonzquad for sometime I must say you both have your own style when doing car repairs
"Drum Rotors" Made me LOL. Dude, those are 2 completely different things.
You probably know this already but don't get the made in China parts. Get the dynacorn replacement parts. 😃
he will get the cheap shit. guaranteed.
The build is really coming along! By the way, there's a new invention called "gloves" and they help to keep your hands clean!
coming along? he has done like 4 hours worth of work.
He doesn't need no stinkin gloves Old school young buck. :-)
Pull the intake off !!
The cubic inches will be cast in the lifter valley under the intake !!
Milwaukee definitely getting some good product placement 😁
If you take the intake off, if it is a 289 it will be stamped on the block under the intake, I learned that today by looking at a 66 mustang that had a 289
They did a Splash and dash. A 1965 Mustang inline 6 is much cheaper than buying an original 289 Mustang. And whoever the insurance company that paid out 20 grand they really didn't have anyone look at that Mustang. I had a 66 Mustang with a inline 6 I went to the junkyard and bought the suspension out of a 1976 Ford Granada which has the exact same suspension but it had disc brakes and the power steering system. I pulled them out of it and I had a really nice inline six 66 Mustang the power steering and disc brakes
Your catalog is toast too! No merch! All sold out!
Replacing all the all the panels is the right thing to. 👍🇨🇦
The drivers side Apron has a important ID number on it stating the cars options on it save that part to stitch back in that spot.