I would love to see this unfold. Not enough people are recording their projects, I will be publishing mine as I make progress on it. I’m planning a kz1100 build. Thank you!
I will never forget getting smoked 🚬 on my Yamaha XS 750 triple by a GS 550 embarrassing . Even after getting my 79' XS 11 600 cc sport bikes could smoke me. Now I'm old and ride a gutless VS 1400 Thanks for the video I will be checking back
Did you consider removing the layer lines of the 3D print molds? Also, look at the mold design and try to do compression radially except for axially. The friction/shear forces might be less in that orientation. U might get flashing and the core would still need to be released axially.
I did look at that orientation but it would require a lot of material to move around the core which I don't think would be reliable. Most people using this method would use a much higher infill to prevent bulging under pressure but I'm trying to get away with a lot less infill so I'm prepared to experiment a bit so I have added some stabilizing features for the next one. I don't want to spend any resources on improving the release as each part is unique and the layer lines are very easy to sand off the finished part. I'm going to do another video soon but thanks for your suggestions.
@@Blackthumbditch One thing I want to know. I see on EasyComposites' website that the max service temp of the IN2 resin is 73°C. Does your part stand-up to the heat of the engine?
@@Blackthumbditch I don't want to be a wet blanket but I see that resin has a low tensile strength. Maybe with the carbon Fibre it's much stronger. I know that company did a video on the relative strength of different material. 3d print vs cf weave vs resin, etc. Would you say the strength is sufficient for an intake boot?
I haven't put the engine together yet so we will see in time but the mechanical properties of the finished part are completely different to the properties of the raw resin or fiber. Once it's moulded together it's very strong and rigid. It's very important to get the correct ratio of fiber to resin for the maximum strength. I must admit I had my doubts when I was cleaning up leftover cured resin as it was quite brittle but once I started machining the details into the finished part it was clear how strong it was.
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I would love to see this unfold. Not enough people are recording their projects, I will be publishing mine as I make progress on it. I’m planning a kz1100 build. Thank you!
I will never forget getting smoked 🚬 on my Yamaha XS 750 triple by a GS 550 embarrassing . Even after getting my 79' XS 11 600 cc sport bikes could smoke me. Now I'm old and ride a gutless VS 1400 Thanks for the video I will be checking back
Very interesting thank you!
Did you consider removing the layer lines of the 3D print molds? Also, look at the mold design and try to do compression radially except for axially. The friction/shear forces might be less in that orientation. U might get flashing and the core would still need to be released axially.
I did look at that orientation but it would require a lot of material to move around the core which I don't think would be reliable. Most people using this method would use a much higher infill to prevent bulging under pressure but I'm trying to get away with a lot less infill so I'm prepared to experiment a bit so I have added some stabilizing features for the next one. I don't want to spend any resources on improving the release as each part is unique and the layer lines are very easy to sand off the finished part. I'm going to do another video soon but thanks for your suggestions.
@@Blackthumbditch One thing I want to know. I see on EasyComposites' website that the max service temp of the IN2 resin is 73°C. Does your part stand-up to the heat of the engine?
I'm using their EL160 resin
@@Blackthumbditch I don't want to be a wet blanket but I see that resin has a low tensile strength. Maybe with the carbon Fibre it's much stronger. I know that company did a video on the relative strength of different material. 3d print vs cf weave vs resin, etc. Would you say the strength is sufficient for an intake boot?
I haven't put the engine together yet so we will see in time but the mechanical properties of the finished part are completely different to the properties of the raw resin or fiber. Once it's moulded together it's very strong and rigid. It's very important to get the correct ratio of fiber to resin for the maximum strength. I must admit I had my doubts when I was cleaning up leftover cured resin as it was quite brittle but once I started machining the details into the finished part it was clear how strong it was.