Take this with a grain of salt. as it's annecdotal, but I did an ICP test and my iodine was none existant, I had lots of hair algae and my octospawns would always die and some types of hammers would always have super retracted polyps, all my torches would expell zooxanthelae every day. I started dosing at super half dosage iodine every 3 days, I haven't done an ICP again since i'm 1 week from the 1 month mark, but my torches have stopped expelling zooxanthelae and my hammer's polyps are slowly extending more and more everyday. Hair algae is a tiny bit more under control. Iodine is the only difference of what i'm dosing since I've noticed those changes. The real test now will be will Iodine be even readable on next ICP, but at least for this tank, i'm sold on dosing Iodine to the tank.
Re: the trace elements. I’ve heard several people mention dosing a lot of manganese and having it still read zero on ICP. I read it’s used up quickly like iron, so be careful titrating up the doses. It might not be necessary. Same with iodine, I believe it’s used up quickly and absorbed by carbon. Read more for yourself obviously but this would explain why some things are always zero or U on ICP.
Just catching up! Just on the topic of temperature, i was looking at reefactory, after the screenshot you showed, i was looking for a temp controller which sends the phone a notification if there was a change in temp, which of the two reefactory products would be best for that, the Thermo View or Thermo Controller? or a non reefactory product? I was also looking at InkBird Dual Probe controller
If all you want is a notification, Thermo view is fine. But Thermo control is much better and I personally think view is a waste of money in comparison to control. Never used the ink bird, but I wouldn't trust it with something so important as temp personally.
@@ReefDork Yeah i was looking at the two and the control makes much more sense. Would it work in the case of a power cut? That's the main reason I'm looking for something like this, also from the UK and the possibility of black/brown outs has me worried
Think the person in the chat was on to something re: tuning rowa. I.e when the reef factory auto tester is out, you'd be able to switch a rowa reactor on and off based on phosphate result. You'd need the reactor plugged in to reef factory power switcher and a rule set up in the app. Boom
Alex can I make a video request? A video to send to better halves or something for neat little Christmas gift ideas ? Those 45 degree frag plugs for example 👌👌
I use Kalwasser to drive my PH just like chris metfly, (not sodium hydroxide) he's only recently been looking at that and does not condone it... the Kalk is super easy as long as you stay on top of it... I also dose sodium bicarb and calcium separately if the kalk evaporation is not enough... also dose mag separately and at different times if you do it at same time and especially in the same mix, u will loose a bunch of everything via precipitation...
Very controversial comment this but looking for any advice! I have a 780 system and it's been running for 7 months. I have a very young regal tang and a very young foxface, pair of clowns, orchid dottyback, algae blenny, a rocket tail damsel, and a purple firefish, I feed fairly heavily for the stock, I've removed my skimmer and filter socks yet I still can't get any nitrates or phosphate, I've even used other people's hanna checkers and salkfert kits etc to double check my results but I'm still at 0 on both. My mag, kh and calcium is bang on as I do dose, I've decided not to do a single water change since I've set up due to no nitrate etc. Any advice?
I don’t claim to be an expert but from my observation of many advanced refers it seems to me that as long as PH is high (8+) alkalinity swings do not matter. Chris Meckley seems to be the strongest proponent of this fact.
Just watching this after I watched the ReefBum with Claude from Fauna Marin over the weekend. You should REALLY watch that episode (I know you miss livestreams) BUT he goes into how trace elements are crucial - like Lack of Florine and Iodine is what REALLY causes cyano. I've now decided to do an ICP with FM (never done one) and I'm going to start dosing trace (Tropic Marin A and K) on a doser. Also, I am going to take more notice of ratios - I already feel strongly NO3:PO4 should be 100-200:1 and I want an elevated Potassium. But now I am also going to think about Ca:Mg and other ratios. Claude explains the science behind why many of these trace elements are important. I am not going to run as tight a ship as he would recommend as I can't afford to ICP regularly. Still I am going to go half Claude / Half Jake - in that I will dose a slightly lower amount regularly in that I would rather be under with some of everything rather than too much of something. Fauna Marin also have this amazing knowledge base www.faunamarin.de/en/knowledge-base/
Great convo!
It would be good to have Ryan and Shaun Russell on at the same time on one of these live streams.
Take this with a grain of salt. as it's annecdotal, but I did an ICP test and my iodine was none existant, I had lots of hair algae and my octospawns would always die and some types of hammers would always have super retracted polyps, all my torches would expell zooxanthelae every day. I started dosing at super half dosage iodine every 3 days, I haven't done an ICP again since i'm 1 week from the 1 month mark, but my torches have stopped expelling zooxanthelae and my hammer's polyps are slowly extending more and more everyday. Hair algae is a tiny bit more under control. Iodine is the only difference of what i'm dosing since I've noticed those changes. The real test now will be will Iodine be even readable on next ICP, but at least for this tank, i'm sold on dosing Iodine to the tank.
Re: the trace elements. I’ve heard several people mention dosing a lot of manganese and having it still read zero on ICP. I read it’s used up quickly like iron, so be careful titrating up the doses. It might not be necessary. Same with iodine, I believe it’s used up quickly and absorbed by carbon. Read more for yourself obviously but this would explain why some things are always zero or U on ICP.
Just catching up! Just on the topic of temperature, i was looking at reefactory, after the screenshot you showed, i was looking for a temp controller which sends the phone a notification if there was a change in temp, which of the two reefactory products would be best for that, the Thermo View or Thermo Controller? or a non reefactory product? I was also looking at InkBird Dual Probe controller
If all you want is a notification, Thermo view is fine. But Thermo control is much better and I personally think view is a waste of money in comparison to control. Never used the ink bird, but I wouldn't trust it with something so important as temp personally.
@@ReefDork Yeah i was looking at the two and the control makes much more sense. Would it work in the case of a power cut? That's the main reason I'm looking for something like this, also from the UK and the possibility of black/brown outs has me worried
Dude on the left has a WAY better background going on 🤣🤣🤣
Think the person in the chat was on to something re: tuning rowa. I.e when the reef factory auto tester is out, you'd be able to switch a rowa reactor on and off based on phosphate result. You'd need the reactor plugged in to reef factory power switcher and a rule set up in the app. Boom
Turning it on and off is a better shout 👌
Alex can I make a video request? A video to send to better halves or something for neat little Christmas gift ideas ? Those 45 degree frag plugs for example 👌👌
I've thought about this before but never done it. Maybe this year...
@@ReefDork yea seems to be alot more little affordable gadgets and accessories available this year I think.
I use Kalwasser to drive my PH just like chris metfly, (not sodium hydroxide) he's only recently been looking at that and does not condone it... the Kalk is super easy as long as you stay on top of it... I also dose sodium bicarb and calcium separately if the kalk evaporation is not enough... also dose mag separately and at different times if you do it at same time and especially in the same mix, u will loose a bunch of everything via precipitation...
Very controversial comment this but looking for any advice! I have a 780 system and it's been running for 7 months. I have a very young regal tang and a very young foxface, pair of clowns, orchid dottyback, algae blenny, a rocket tail damsel, and a purple firefish, I feed fairly heavily for the stock, I've removed my skimmer and filter socks yet I still can't get any nitrates or phosphate, I've even used other people's hanna checkers and salkfert kits etc to double check my results but I'm still at 0 on both. My mag, kh and calcium is bang on as I do dose, I've decided not to do a single water change since I've set up due to no nitrate etc. Any advice?
8 small fish in a tank that big isn't a lot - buy more fish
@@ReefDork perfect answer!
your misses is a keeper even if the beer comes in a cocktail glass
i dont have room for a refugium in my sump do you have any info on algae reactors thanx.
I've made a couple of videos about them a while ago - they never really took off in popularity
@@ReefDork thanx for the reply, its a shame they did not get more popular as for smaller systems they would be a good option i think .
I don’t claim to be an expert but from my observation of many advanced refers it seems to me that as long as PH is high (8+) alkalinity swings do not matter. Chris Meckley seems to be the strongest proponent of this fact.
I LOVE your content. Keep it up! :)
The reef bot lab looks pretty cool and is $1300
Anyone have a clue about installing a seneye? I can't seem to install the software
I just did it a couple weeks ago. I did have a couple issues, but finally got it working.
@@yourcreativechaos how? I still can't install the file, I just get an error message
@@Cruzeoc101 what error message are you getting?
If Reef Dork can do it, anyone can🙄
Can't watch the rest of this...
Just watching this after I watched the ReefBum with Claude from Fauna Marin over the weekend.
You should REALLY watch that episode (I know you miss livestreams) BUT he goes into how trace elements are crucial - like Lack of Florine and Iodine is what REALLY causes cyano.
I've now decided to do an ICP with FM (never done one) and I'm going to start dosing trace (Tropic Marin A and K) on a doser.
Also, I am going to take more notice of ratios - I already feel strongly NO3:PO4 should be 100-200:1 and I want an elevated Potassium. But now I am also going to think about Ca:Mg and other ratios.
Claude explains the science behind why many of these trace elements are important. I am not going to run as tight a ship as he would recommend as I can't afford to ICP regularly. Still I am going to go half Claude / Half Jake - in that I will dose a slightly lower amount regularly in that I would rather be under with some of everything rather than too much of something. Fauna Marin also have this amazing knowledge base www.faunamarin.de/en/knowledge-base/
Yeah I saw it the other day, very interesting!
@@ReefDork Bugger - I forgot - you commented you have a new favourite quote: "Corals never lie"