It's such a bizarre period of history that had such a massive impact. The difference in research, both more traditional disciplines but also in areas such as textile history which now have far more academic weight, has developed understanding so much further than the lessons I oringinally sat through 40 years ago at school. Battle is an interesting place to visit if you get the chance (guess what happened there!) it's a thought provoking battle ground to walk as it's on a hill - and of course we should never forget it gave the English their love of over the top administration by introducing the Doomsday Book, which is how I know I am currently sitting in a house on the land whose tenant was Ranulf brother of Ilger 938 years ago. Weird.
That is so cool! I hope Ranulf’s land is treating you well! It is really such an important part of English and European history, and I knew very little about it before I moved to England. I knew of the Norwegian king Harald, but had no idea he was involved! I’d love to visit Battle one day, but I haven’t yet. I have visited Stamford Bridge, however!
I love that name 'Aelfgiva'. I also love watching your videos! You are a natural at this and there is so much to learn...only 3 women on The Bayeux Tapestry!! (your cough.....embroidery..........make me laugh) and yet it was made by women!! Great dress for winter at home ......on the couch with a book by the sound of the weight of it 😂 I have some that are weight lifting territory too!! Can wait for the next one!! XXX
I sang contralto with a Madrigal choir in the 1970's. I sewed dark red medieval hoods for us to wear with our solid blue, or green or teal mini-dresses. Scandalous!
This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, and I’ve instantly subscribed! I love fashion history, and this video had plenty of both! I’ll definitely be catching up with your content. Super excited about the three Viking dresses video. It struck me that I’d never connected the dots between William the Conqueror’s privatization of the forests and the fact that Robin Hood and his Merry Men living in the Forest is what made them criminals. I taught world history for 18 years and knew about all the facts, but hadn’t put it together with the Robin Hood myth. I’ve probably seen just about every modern iteration of Robin Hood, but my first love is the 🦊 Robin Hood from the Disney movie, lol.
Goodness, so much history, I have to watch that again. Could not take it all in in one go :) The dress looks really very extra comfy, lounge wear deluxe.. I see myself wearing that cuddled up on the chaiselongue, knitting. And all the neat handstitching... just marvellous! Thank you for this great episode! All the best from Germany Su / Pinguinpullover
I was wondering if you were going to mention the why royals having no direct heirs was a problem, or rather what problems that caused (civil war or international war), and you didn't disappoint. Lol I've not yet made an outfit from any medieval time period but I have one in mind (around 1390s), so following your journey of this multi-part project is both great fun and informative.
Hi, Where there are women there are usually naughty clerics aplenty*. Not necessarily coming down through history though, since women's history are told mostly by clerics. Historically speaking. (*Wisdoms by Ann) The next part of Fashion Of The Middle Ages. Thank you. How little of how the women lived that has survived. We didn't play that big a part in history, apparently. Or maybe we're back to the case of history being recorded by the clergy, and them having limited access to women? At least perhaps they didn't want to leave any evidence of their knowledge of women. In this part we are outside my fudged together historical knowledge. We were in a fairly warm part of history here, though a few more centuries until peak thaw out, if I remember things right. So winter clothing most likely? Immediately I want to start questioning everything, but I shall restrain myself, since there is no real knowledge to be had here, unfortunately, but conjecture and you are building a very good case. The only things that can really be deduced here is that her gown seems longer than the clergyman's (brown munk?), and that the sleeves were worn long that year. I saw red markings down the front of the gown. I just read that the Bayeux tapestry was ready A.D 1076, which is quite amazing. That's 7 meters of embroidery per year. I wonder how many people worked on it. Are there theories about those, you know? I'm thinking about Iconographs from the 11th and 12th centuries. Can we learn anything from them? I remember that in the church of the small town I grew up in, there was an 12th century statue of the Virgin Mary, even though the baby had been removed at the Reformation. I was about 7-10 at the time so I don't remember more than a vague shape, but I also remember being so taken in by the idea of the people that were going to church back then and how that would have felt. This was all the way up at the north in the bay of Bothnia, and for some reason I haven't ever been back. I think somebody broke in that church and tried to destroy that figure and another one from the 14th century, but I have no idea what happened to them. Another thing altogether. Are those Wilkinson's Fabric Shears you're using? If they are, how do you like them? I know it's completely irrelevant, but I've been looking at them for a while but haven't found anyone who can tell me if they are worth the cost. I'm using Fiskars at the moment and they are good, and light. Maybe a heavier pair would suit me better. Anyway. I can't wait to get the next article of Middle Age Fashion Magazine. Yours, Ann I just googled the church and that statue and she is still there. The younger one isn't mentioned and I can't find her with a cursory google. She is believed to come from the area around Rehn in today's Germany, and she is from (romansk) pre gothic times, and believed to have been in a (romansk) wooden church on the same place as today's church, of 1796-99. Back when I lived there it was believed that the church is standing on an old "Blotplats" (Translates gives me nothing, sorry) (Hon kallas Skellefteå Madonnan, och kyrkan kallas Skellefteå landskyrka. Ingen i staden uttalar namnet som det skrivs. Man tar bort å (aa), och det gäller i princip alla ortsnamn i norra Sverige.
You’re such a fantastic treasure trove of knowledge! I’d love to visit Skellefteå one day, and see that statue. Piecing together the lives of women is such a hard, but important task. I love learning more about the women who lived in the past, even if it’s only glimpses!
Wait….did you make a “Norway nul pointes” joke?! 😂 Seriously loving your videos since I discovered the channel. A big part of it is the history behind it all and it’s fascinating. Also, where do you get your fabrics from? I have a number of pieces I want to make and I’m struggling to find what I need, especially the kind of broadcloth I could make an 18th century cloak out of.
Thank you! And yes, a tiny ESC joke there 😂 so happy you noticed! I buy a lot of my wools from a Norwegian producer called Skaar tekstil. I have no idea if they ship internationally, but it’s worth a try! Their website is tekstil.no 😊 Burnley and Trowbridge also have amazing stuff!
How are the sleeves attached? I've looked at a lot of images and while some appear to have a sort of set-in sleeve others appear to have sleeves cut as part of the design - dolman sleeve style - and looking at those worn by re-enactors [and there are some truly beautiful Norman clothes out there worn by re-enactors] they also appear to have some as a part of the garment and others as possibly sewn in. I confess to liking the dolman style and all my house dresses are made this way [was taught by a friend from Pakistan, this is how many dresses/abayas/? are made apparently as it is quick and easy to cut and sew] and making a winter dress out of wool in this style certainly appeals. Hence the question, not having to set in sleeves definitely appeals to me and while mine wouldn't be as loose as yours [not practical when using a walking frame, the hems tend to get caught up so I make them narrower] a slightly more fitted version of what you are wearing out of wool has a very definite appeal. Can't wait for the next video.
You have to remember that this is all square cut from narrow handwoven fabrics. You can't cut a sleeve sticking out at right angles to the body from something only 22" wide. They didn't tailor garments with arched sleeve heads and curved armscyes. Things were put together with straight seams preserving the selvedges so the fabric didn't fall apart. You can full wool, but linen, silk, and cloth of gold all unravel like crazy. This square cut is how shirts and chemises were cut into the 1800s. I learnt it from working in folk costumes which still use it, whether it's Japanese, East African, Near Eastern, or Huichol. It gets easy ease from gussets under the arms or body, and other techniques of piecing in. It gets fullness from cores in the seams. The proof is in the pudding. Costumes cut like this hang right, especially when they aren't just worn flat and close but draped. So you don't have to set in sleeves, just sew the rectangular sleeve to the rectangular body, then sew up the underarm and side seam. Underarm gusset, a little square, is optional if the sleeve is loose enough.
Thank you so much! As @hollyingram3980 said, the fabric wasn’t really wide enough to cut the sleeves in one piece with the rest of the garment, but I have also seen that done, especially on informal clothing from the 17th and 18th centuries. For my own part, I cut the sleeves separately from the body, stitched two pieces together to get the width I wanted, and stitched them onto the shoulders with a small underarm gusset.
Ultimately William was the better King Harold would have continued to support slavery of his subjects [the Saxons definitely kept slaves] while King William I passed laws making slavery on English soil illegal [not sure if he was the first to do so but must have one of the first to do so as slavery was rampant even in those times in large parts of the world] which - even though it was primarily done for monetary reasons and not out of genuine compassion for the slaves - had to be a good thing. I remember reading the Georgette Heyer book about William when I was at school [The Conqueror by Georgette Heyer, not only a good read but she did a lot of research for the book as well] and I've had a soft spot for him ever since. Probably not a nice man - by today's standards at least - but the man for the time in question. And that is what counts.
It’s so hard to know how England would have turned out without the Norman invasion! William I was definitely not the worst king, and heaps better than most of his sons 😅
It's such a bizarre period of history that had such a massive impact. The difference in research, both more traditional disciplines but also in areas such as textile history which now have far more academic weight, has developed understanding so much further than the lessons I oringinally sat through 40 years ago at school. Battle is an interesting place to visit if you get the chance (guess what happened there!) it's a thought provoking battle ground to walk as it's on a hill - and of course we should never forget it gave the English their love of over the top administration by introducing the Doomsday Book, which is how I know I am currently sitting in a house on the land whose tenant was Ranulf brother of Ilger 938 years ago. Weird.
That is so cool! I hope Ranulf’s land is treating you well! It is really such an important part of English and European history, and I knew very little about it before I moved to England. I knew of the Norwegian king Harald, but had no idea he was involved! I’d love to visit Battle one day, but I haven’t yet. I have visited Stamford Bridge, however!
That wool fabric looks so snuggly and comfortable 😻
It’s like wearing a blanket! 🤩
I love that name 'Aelfgiva'. I also love watching your videos! You are a natural at this and there is so much to learn...only 3 women on The Bayeux Tapestry!! (your cough.....embroidery..........make me laugh) and yet it was made by women!!
Great dress for winter at home ......on the couch with a book by the sound of the weight of it 😂 I have some that are weight lifting territory too!! Can wait for the next one!! XXX
Thank you so much! And thank you for the idea - I can use my overkirtle as a portable blanket! 🤩
This is an excellent example of the hussy and trollop of 1066.
Thank you!
I sang contralto with a Madrigal choir in the 1970's. I sewed dark red medieval hoods for us to wear with our solid blue, or green or teal mini-dresses. Scandalous!
Hahaha, that sounds amazing! I’m sure you looked incredible!
I love your way of presenting the history!!
Thank you!
This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, and I’ve instantly subscribed! I love fashion history, and this video had plenty of both! I’ll definitely be catching up with your content. Super excited about the three Viking dresses video. It struck me that I’d never connected the dots between William the Conqueror’s privatization of the forests and the fact that Robin Hood and his Merry Men living in the Forest is what made them criminals. I taught world history for 18 years and knew about all the facts, but hadn’t put it together with the Robin Hood myth. I’ve probably seen just about every modern iteration of Robin Hood, but my first love is the 🦊 Robin Hood from the Disney movie, lol.
Oh, your comment made me so happy! I’m a big Robin Hood fan myself 😁 hope you find lots to enjoy on my channel! Welcome!
Goodness, so much history, I have to watch that again. Could not take it all in in one go :)
The dress looks really very extra comfy, lounge wear deluxe.. I see myself wearing that cuddled up on the chaiselongue, knitting.
And all the neat handstitching... just marvellous!
Thank you for this great episode!
All the best from Germany
Su / Pinguinpullover
Thank you so much! That dress is definitely an oversized blanket 😅 super cozy for winter!
Love the title
Thank you 😁
I was wondering if you were going to mention the why royals having no direct heirs was a problem, or rather what problems that caused (civil war or international war), and you didn't disappoint. Lol
I've not yet made an outfit from any medieval time period but I have one in mind (around 1390s), so following your journey of this multi-part project is both great fun and informative.
I’m so glad you found it interesting and entertaining!
Hi, Where there are women there are usually naughty clerics aplenty*. Not necessarily coming down through history though, since women's history are told mostly by clerics. Historically speaking. (*Wisdoms by Ann)
The next part of Fashion Of The Middle Ages. Thank you.
How little of how the women lived that has survived. We didn't play that big a part in history, apparently. Or maybe we're back to the case of history being recorded by the clergy, and them having limited access to women? At least perhaps they didn't want to leave any evidence of their knowledge of women.
In this part we are outside my fudged together historical knowledge. We were in a fairly warm part of history here, though a few more centuries until peak thaw out, if I remember things right. So winter clothing most likely?
Immediately I want to start questioning everything, but I shall restrain myself, since there is no real knowledge to be had here, unfortunately, but conjecture and you are building a very good case. The only things that can really be deduced here is that her gown seems longer than the clergyman's (brown munk?), and that the sleeves were worn long that year. I saw red markings down the front of the gown. I just read that the Bayeux tapestry was ready A.D 1076, which is quite amazing. That's 7 meters of embroidery per year. I wonder how many people worked on it. Are there theories about those, you know?
I'm thinking about Iconographs from the 11th and 12th centuries. Can we learn anything from them?
I remember that in the church of the small town I grew up in, there was an 12th century statue of the Virgin Mary, even though the baby had been removed at the Reformation. I was about 7-10 at the time so I don't remember more than a vague shape, but I also remember being so taken in by the idea of the people that were going to church back then and how that would have felt. This was all the way up at the north in the bay of Bothnia, and for some reason I haven't ever been back. I think somebody broke in that church and tried to destroy that figure and another one from the 14th century, but I have no idea what happened to them.
Another thing altogether. Are those Wilkinson's Fabric Shears you're using? If they are, how do you like them? I know it's completely irrelevant, but I've been looking at them for a while but haven't found anyone who can tell me if they are worth the cost. I'm using Fiskars at the moment and they are good, and light. Maybe a heavier pair would suit me better.
Anyway. I can't wait to get the next article of Middle Age Fashion Magazine. Yours, Ann
I just googled the church and that statue and she is still there. The younger one isn't mentioned and I can't find her with a cursory google. She is believed to come from the area around Rehn in today's Germany, and she is from (romansk) pre gothic times, and believed to have been in a (romansk) wooden church on the same place as today's church, of 1796-99. Back when I lived there it was believed that the church is standing on an old "Blotplats" (Translates gives me nothing, sorry)
(Hon kallas Skellefteå Madonnan, och kyrkan kallas Skellefteå landskyrka. Ingen i staden uttalar namnet som det skrivs. Man tar bort å (aa), och det gäller i princip alla ortsnamn i norra Sverige.
You’re such a fantastic treasure trove of knowledge! I’d love to visit Skellefteå one day, and see that statue. Piecing together the lives of women is such a hard, but important task. I love learning more about the women who lived in the past, even if it’s only glimpses!
Wait….did you make a “Norway nul pointes” joke?! 😂 Seriously loving your videos since I discovered the channel. A big part of it is the history behind it all and it’s fascinating. Also, where do you get your fabrics from? I have a number of pieces I want to make and I’m struggling to find what I need, especially the kind of broadcloth I could make an 18th century cloak out of.
Thank you! And yes, a tiny ESC joke there 😂 so happy you noticed! I buy a lot of my wools from a Norwegian producer called Skaar tekstil. I have no idea if they ship internationally, but it’s worth a try! Their website is tekstil.no 😊 Burnley and Trowbridge also have amazing stuff!
How are the sleeves attached? I've looked at a lot of images and while some appear to have a sort of set-in sleeve others appear to have sleeves cut as part of the design - dolman sleeve style - and looking at those worn by re-enactors [and there are some truly beautiful Norman clothes out there worn by re-enactors] they also appear to have some as a part of the garment and others as possibly sewn in. I confess to liking the dolman style and all my house dresses are made this way [was taught by a friend from Pakistan, this is how many dresses/abayas/? are made apparently as it is quick and easy to cut and sew] and making a winter dress out of wool in this style certainly appeals. Hence the question, not having to set in sleeves definitely appeals to me and while mine wouldn't be as loose as yours [not practical when using a walking frame, the hems tend to get caught up so I make them narrower] a slightly more fitted version of what you are wearing out of wool has a very definite appeal.
Can't wait for the next video.
You have to remember that this is all square cut from narrow handwoven fabrics. You can't cut a sleeve sticking out at right angles to the body from something only 22" wide. They didn't tailor garments with arched sleeve heads and curved armscyes. Things were put together with straight seams preserving the selvedges so the fabric didn't fall apart. You can full wool, but linen, silk, and cloth of gold all unravel like crazy.
This square cut is how shirts and chemises were cut into the 1800s. I learnt it from working in folk costumes which still use it, whether it's Japanese, East African, Near Eastern, or Huichol. It gets easy ease from gussets under the arms or body, and other techniques of piecing in. It gets fullness from cores in the seams.
The proof is in the pudding. Costumes cut like this hang right, especially when they aren't just worn flat and close but draped.
So you don't have to set in sleeves, just sew the rectangular sleeve to the rectangular body, then sew up the underarm and side seam. Underarm gusset, a little square, is optional if the sleeve is loose enough.
Thank you so much! As @hollyingram3980 said, the fabric wasn’t really wide enough to cut the sleeves in one piece with the rest of the garment, but I have also seen that done, especially on informal clothing from the 17th and 18th centuries. For my own part, I cut the sleeves separately from the body, stitched two pieces together to get the width I wanted, and stitched them onto the shoulders with a small underarm gusset.
That’s exactly the way I did it! Slightly trapezoid sleeves, stitched to the body with a small gore and then stitched down.
Ultimately William was the better King Harold would have continued to support slavery of his subjects [the Saxons definitely kept slaves] while King William I passed laws making slavery on English soil illegal [not sure if he was the first to do so but must have one of the first to do so as slavery was rampant even in those times in large parts of the world] which - even though it was primarily done for monetary reasons and not out of genuine compassion for the slaves - had to be a good thing.
I remember reading the Georgette Heyer book about William when I was at school [The Conqueror by Georgette Heyer, not only a good read but she did a lot of research for the book as well] and I've had a soft spot for him ever since. Probably not a nice man - by today's standards at least - but the man for the time in question. And that is what counts.
It’s so hard to know how England would have turned out without the Norman invasion! William I was definitely not the worst king, and heaps better than most of his sons 😅
A girdle may help.
That Edward dude was a big medieval troll.
Haha! “Can’t wait to see the mess they’ll stir up when I’m gone!”