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You should do a video of port and polishing the exhaust and intake port to a bigger intake and exhaust size since these engines are badly restricted of exhaust and air flow to promote better combustion in the combustion chamber while running and the moped i have like this runs much much better with a port and polished head with a unrestricted straight piped exhaust and putting bigger valve seats in the hemi type head that's pretty funny these engines have a very small hemi engine in these scooters and I think it's funny to say YEAH ITS GOT A HEMI
I believe when you bought the full kit , they include a H.O oil pump to deliver more oil to the bigger top end or so the say & u have a big enough pump to run a NYC oil cooler. So they say couldn't tell the stock oil pump from the extra in the kit . I'm not 💯 for sure nice clean big bore complete, I have to actually pull my motor for a big bore frame is smack in the way for 150 to a 180cc & 30mm carb get ya moving Fwd great vid !
hi im going into a engineering school. Im not a professional yet but i think you should lubricate the piston and its componets to avoid any internal damage at the first startups!
Great video, very informative and well shot, much better than many. I've watched over a dozen videos with different motors, different kits all to get an idea of what problems others run across. Generally, they are all similar. Anyway; None but one ever mentioned using assembly lube for re-installation. As cheap as that stuff is, I believe it is a must do step. Or at least use regular motor oil, (preferably heavy weight/thicker oil). I use a restaurant ketchup squeeze bottle and use straight 50W oil when I can't find my assembly lube. It sticks better. You should pre-oil the wrist pins, the rings and cylinder, the lifters, (both the pivot points & all contact points), the chain tensioner as well as chain and sprocket. Any metal to metal wear points. Then before you replace the plug, either hand turn or use a drill or the starter to turn over the motor several times to start the oil pumping through the engine before a hard start. Then no matter how well oiled, let it idle for a minute or two to help seat everything then a short test drive, (short, no over revving or speed test). Then change the oil. Any metal shavings need to be removed right away. One video did mention to get a magnetic oil drain plug, good idea with or without a rebuild. That is just my two cents worth; "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound or cure". This is just a suggestion for my knowledge. I would love either a video or at least information on what the best setup would be for different size rebuilds, like, this 100cc upgrade, the best clutch setup, lighter or heavier weights on the flywheel, best carb jet size or better yet carburetor to replace, what CDI to use, etc. etc. Thanks for the video, you did a great job.
i'm a computer guy, and i learned quite a lot from this video! i'm far from a mechanic, but i'll have more confidence tearing apart a motor now. now to find a scooter project :D Thanks for the video!
Some tips: When attaching the piston, already put one of the clips in the piston before you slide it on the crank. Easier ;) And very important, lube the piston and cylinder with engine oil. Don’t slide it on just like that. Same when montaging the headbolts, lube them and make shure the threads are clean before you torque them.
The piston rings and piston were lubricated prior to assembly. I believe what happened was when I was recording I pressed record for the second time and accidentally stopped recording. Lost the footage
@@Nthefastlane ah ok :) what weight rollers do you use in youre scooter? I got the 50mm kit as well with a 24mm carb and the head with larger ports and the performance camshaft. The scooter pulls well till about 25mph, flattens and starts pulling again at 30, maxes out at about 42mph. I got 6,5gr rollers and a performance exhaust with 27mm downpipe and a fake yoshimura muffler.
Did the same on my 2006 peace motorsports 50, previously bored it to 80cc and just recently went to 100cc and trust me on a50 with the small tires 65mph is almost to fast unless it's a nice smooth surface, I have to also be careful not to get caught speeding because in North Carolina anything over 50 cc and goes faster than 35 requires a motorcycle endorsement which I don't have, but anyways it really helped with the performance I also put a performance muffler and coil as well, down hill probably 70ish but i havnt had the balls to try it 😆. Tags and registration 24$ and 12$ a month insurance with Geico.
Hey my friend I've been building engines for 30 years they're called dowel pens repeat dial pens they're not shims shims is like a flat piece of metal that you put between two other pieces of metal that is a dowel pen and you can look it up Google it to be correct just trying to correct you you doing a good job keep up the good work still got a lot to learn
Actually they're "Dowel Pins" not "Dowel Pens". Maybe autocorrect? But you are correct. I'm not sure why I said shims, I knew what they were. Sometimes thinking about creating the video in the moment and paying attention to the work you're doing gets things mixed up sometimes.
And... converted. Thought I was going to have to drop the engine to make the swap, but everything you have removed is no different than what I have removed from my own scooter for other related maintenance. Thank you for clearing things up.
You forgot to lube the piston and rings + cylinder! And i installed a 80cc cylinder today and used some oil in the cylinder and piston. No smoke at first start up ( without exhaust ofcourse )
Decent vid, I would recommend putting a film of heavy gear oil on the cylinder walls so the rings won't be dry rubbing until the oil pump forces oil up in there, just my 2 cents..
Bro, thanks for this video. I recently got a rundown 2003 qingqi moped, and I'm having a hard time with it. I have no idea what I'm doing but this video is making the project less intimidating . When u get the chance can u do a reverse video putting the parts back on? Thanks I appreciate this video very much.
Another thing you want to do is use assembly lube on your wrist pin, inside the cylinder walls , and on your cam lobes and other various metal to metal contact points so installation is easier and you need some lubrication before the oil gets there in initial start up. Very important.
I mentioned this in the description under the video. TH-cam used to have annotations, but they removed them so all of my notes in the video got removed.
The video was long but very informative, tink u did a great job too, I have a 125cc but im gonna get an upgrade kit of maybe 170 cc and also rejet my 26mm car, , hopefully I'll be on race track soon
Hey Brian D,First make sure you bolted the 2 Black ground wires to the valve cover..without those you will not have enough ground and the lights will be dim.
quick tip on those carbs use a small dremell cutting wheel to put a groove in the screw then unscrew with a flat screwdriver. doing it like this you can use the screws to reassemble.
Great video, Im looking at putting in a 80cc kit, so far I have the piston, rings, block and cam. Do I need to replace the carb or ignition system at all?? great videos mate very informative.
Hey Elton,First make sure you bolted the 2 Black ground wires to the valve cover..without those you will not have enough ground and the lights will be dim.
I had a couple of suggestions for doing this demo I would have taken the motor in gear trade out of the scooter and put it on a patch so that people will be able to see things more easily there's parts of your video to where you cannot see what's going on this would really help as a video for teaching people how to assemble this Bore Kit also I would suggest taking off the side cover and turning the crankshaft manually by using a socket and Ratchet this way if the person makes a mistake when installing the cam gear and chain where the timing is not right this way you will not Bend a valve just a precautionary measure because a lot of people have never put in a Big Bore Kit the cam sprocket is so tiny it would be really easy to be off a couple of notches and not even know it also is very important to show people how to make sure there crank is at top dead center and both valves are closed I hope the information I have talked about will help people and will help the man who made this video I think you did a really good job but these are some ideas that may help him make other videos in the future
The oil pump is a higher capacity pump, it flows more oil.. install it 100%. Bigger piston, bigger bore it will need more oil. Don't forget to lubricate the rocker arms,cam etc.. dont put them in dry
12:14 instead of using screwdriver to pry it out. a gentle tap with mallot helps. 23:40 apply a drop of oil before installing piston pin clips and piston ring and you won't need pliers to shove the clip in. 29:00 shims/guides are known by one more name. dowel pin.
There are so many comments, questions and points. But this is like puttin lipstick on a dog. A peace sport firstly. And an 80cc on that model would do fine. It's very light. But mostly why are you making a how to on something you are not well versed in..... But it all boils down to, thanks for keeping local scooter mechanics busy! You help alot. And 5/16? There is no standard its all metric. All u need os 8 10 12 14 17. Sometimes a 13mm thats it
I like your video! Informative and educating! I was impressed that you did your homework when describing the difference between the P39 and 139 models! Kudos sir! Kudos!
Im getting that kit. But aint no way i wanna tackle that. I got a buddy for that. But i did put a clutch and variator yesterday. What a difference it made.
Hey Brian D, the hose your talking about is just a emissions hose..if anything it slows you down..the new head that came with the kit has eliminated that port.
I left the shroud off, the fins on the cylinder head act as a heat sync, just like a computer heat sync on a chipset. Been running it for months with no problems.
Hello, great video, and great explanation. Congrats! I have a baotian bt49qt with 139qma engine ( I assume it is the same engine as 139qmb) and it has lack of power and much blow-by at the cover vent. Where i live they don't sell bbk's, however they sell cylinder, piston and ring set for 80ccm, so if I go with that set would I have to change cam head and/or anything else like carburetor? Thanks
Good advice about the rocker arms, however, just for trial and error, I tried to put the rocker arms the wrong way and found it’s not possible. The casing will not allow the cam shaft to fit. I did find it WAY easier to oil the cylinder before installing the piston.
Dont forget to lube the engine when mounting the kit with engineoil, to prevent drystart. thats a big problem if it fires without any oil lubricates the cilynder walls when new.
Exhaust is .004 Little RTV goes a long way Buy a Kevlar belt as a 100cc will eat it up Get bigger carb... not just jets Bigger v.weights better clutch. Great job bud.
Last time I did work on the engine on a "baotian" 4-stroke scooter, I actually removed the entire rear from the frame - was so much easier to work on it.
does the kit online come with the carb that will work with the big bore kit or do i have to modify the carburator?...also will putting a no limit cdi in my taotao vip raise the rpms?
50mm bore is 81,25cc ;) The biggest I have seen with no stroking is 89cc which is 52,4mm bore. I am running 72cc on mine which is 47mm bore. Still a great video tutorial for changing cylinder :) My next step will be cam and bigger valve head.
Will the piston hit the head,I have a 50 mm big bore with the valves that match it but my exhaust valve leaks so I was wondering if I could take my old 39mm valve head and put it on the 50 mm
@@BigBoyMemer It means when he was younger he was good with lego and at the same age, this guy is assembling an engine in a scooter; which is a more complex task.
@@sebikelife1262 The joke is that when he was younger he was good with lego and at the same age, this guy is assembling an engine in a scooter; which is a more complex task.
Great video. Question though, did one of the new rocker arms not slide into place easily? For me, one fit perfectly, the other will not fit in between the two walls.
Instead of squeezing the clip and possibly bending or distorting the clip, insert the clip the same way you did , but use a scribe into the same notch , but you can insert the scribe into the notch but outside the clip then pry the clip inward with the scribe. This way you are only affecting one portion of the clip.
Yes I know it's 82cc but they call it a 100cc kit. The stock fan shroud still should fit..It's in the air right now, but I might make a big cpu fan with a temp censer attached to the head.
Hey I follow this video step by step and I messed up on a few things. 1. I did not put the heat shield back on 2. I did not put my exhaust gasket back on. 3. I did not adjust my rockers properly I am not blaming the video, I just was tired and ready to put it back together
When I pulled my 50cc off mine it had a total of 6 guides or shims . Should I install them just like yours for my 100cc big bore kit. Is that just how the 50cc is?
Very nice DIY video, What your scooter brand, I have 2009 KYMCO Super 8 125cc all stock, what basic upgrade do i need beside upgrading to high displacement? Thanks!
Awsome dude. Very helpful. Want to ask u. I want to use a performance air filter but not sur what to do with the crankcase vent hose. Where should it go since no nipple for it in the performance air filter?
You shouldve oiled the piston and cylinder before putting them on. Also there is a torque spec for the headbolts and side bolts. And the gapping is off, the intake should be a bigger gap than the exhaust.
Joey Taber they can be the same, I run a Lada Niva and the valve lash is the same. But if the are different, the exhaust is in my experience the larger gap due to the fact that they run a higher temperature and expand more at operating temperature.
Any idea the compression ratio? Or cranking psi? Can the head be shaved . 010"-.020" to get a bit more squeeze!?!? Bit a bigger BANG, also do the to make a larger carbonator for these monsters? Would a 125cc motorcycle carb possibly work on these, or maybe a 125-200cc motorcycle carb , I noticed on my scooter, the carb made a major difference, not having the proper carb, was like only having half throttle available, I think it may be worth looking into! It's very easy to sit here behind the screen, saying how about this and that, but nice work/video, greatly explained, great details! I have built many car engines and a few motorcycle engines, but never a scooter engine, I even built a 200cc Suzuki engine, bored , polished ported head, shaved, with a cam with the base circle turned down a bit, not professional at all, but it seemed to work, it sounded a bit like a Harley, with no muffler, only the head pipe, and it was loud!! Made decent power, it had about . 050" more lift, and the compression was a good bit higher, kick-starting was a but sketchy, ya had to be careful!! It nearly three be over the bars a few times! Great work, sorry about the rambling!!
for the 90cc on a kymco super 8 I take the 50 head, that combination works fine also the 50cc camshaft, up there you have to go fit, experience say that, with this setup you get with tight running almost the 100km / h 80cc 86 nozzle 50cc head / 50cc camshaft, drive in at 50km / h then full throttle and do it in such a way to speed up and take off, giving a little to his thunder, so the cylinder is not lazy either.
Will you ever do anything with a Whizzer motorbike ? My only changes I did on mine was the high compression head, echo pipe and twist grip controls. Before it was 2, 5 HP and 35 MPH. after 3.0 HP and 40 MPH. I was 16 then, now 80.
Hi, when you took off the plastic cover surrounding the engine, did you leave it off? I was just wondering because I was thinking I leaving mine off, but wondered if it caused any further problems? Such as cooling problems Thanks
hey, I've got a question about the 100cc kit. I found one without all the extra accesoires like; exhaust, muffler, gaskets and most important cilinder head. My question is, do I need a specific 100cc head or is the standard head also going to work?
You should ALWAYS put some oil on the wrist pin and piston and rings with your fingers. This allows for proper break in on a cold first start. NEVER assemble dry🙄
I did everything your video suggested and my scooter started just fine and ran as fast as yours did but after 3 starts I noticed the starter struggles to start the bike. I can kick start it but now the starter can't start the bike at all. Does anybody have any suggestions? The battery is new and charged.
if you left off the plastic shrouds for the fan driven cooling air like our intrepid host, you probably fried your engine. does it spin freely with the plug out if you kick it, or does it go a quarter turn and stick?
If I get a kit without a camshaft and buy an 89 cam on the side, can I use the existing cam chain my scooter literally has five hours on it. Just wanted to put a kit on it because it’s gutless.
It's pretty simple. If you have the 69 mm valve length then you need a 69 mm rocker arm assembly. If you have a 64 mm valve length then you need a 64 mm rocker assembly. Take a digital caliper and measure from the top to the bottom of the valve. It'll either be 64 mm or 69 mm. That's how you will know which rocker arm assembly you need. Just for you I added the 64 mm and the 69 mm rocker assembly that's completely assembled. It's really cheap so if you don't want to do the swap you can just order it pre-assembled. I pin my store to the top comments, but here's a link for you.. www.nthefastlane.com/gy6-scooter-50cc-to-100cc-kit-store
@Nthefastlane ok so I had the 64mm valve but changed it to the new 69mm. do I keep the old arms and swap the bracket or keep the bracket and swap arms from old to new ??
The cylinder head is the same size as the original one and the valves. Is that going to make a difference in performance? Shouldn't the valves and the chamber be larger to accommodate for the piston size
Hey, may be a dumb question but did you drain all the oil, gas before, then add new oil after? Also, I'm just making sure you said you ran a 150cc carb because the 85 jet didn't work? Wouldn't that be running it too rich? Thanks
I'm installing a 100cc bbk, why is there a greater clearance between the valve adjustment screew and the plate on the bottom of the valve. There wasn't any issue with the intake, but on the exhaust side, I don't have any enough threads on the screw to tighten the lock nut??????
good job , the only constructive info that i can inject , is to lube all new parts with a coat of oil , especially the cylinder bore . and to use a dab of locktite on the rocker arm adjusting nuts , which seem to back off and loosen at times . the x tra horsepower is really worth the time and money that you put into it . and it is none of the governments buisness that the xtra 50 cc's was added . Great job explaining , to the do it yourselfer
Very good video but you forgot to put on cooling plastics , i recommend not to run scooter for too long (for testing okay) but not for driving :) Your brand new set will overheat .
That's probably a 72cc Kit you got there, there are no 100cc Kits for Gy6 139qmb Engines. The biggest one is the 90cc kit from Naraku which also has bigger Valves. Oh and btw how long did it take you to ruin the Engine due to overheating because you didn't put the Fan Shroud back on? Seriously this is not the way to do it! Otherwise great Video
The only thing I change was the variator weights to 7g and upgraded the carburetor to a 24mm with a 105 main jet. I added the 150cc intake neck and foam filter. Did 56mph on flat ground. It all can be found in my store link.
💡Answering Scooter Questions Here💡
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+Nthefastlane will it be noticable to the authorities if i do this????
Nthefastlane i need help cold it be the fuel pump wean I gave it gas it die on me
Nthefastlane would it be a little better if i ran straight pipe moneys kinda tight on bigger exhaust or normal exhaust is better please hmu
You should do a video of port and polishing the exhaust and intake port to a bigger intake and exhaust size since these engines are badly restricted of exhaust and air flow to promote better combustion in the combustion chamber while running and the moped i have like this runs much much better with a port and polished head with a unrestricted straight piped exhaust and putting bigger valve seats in the hemi type head that's pretty funny these engines have a very small hemi engine in these scooters and I think it's funny to say YEAH ITS GOT A HEMI
I believe when you bought the full kit , they include a H.O oil pump to deliver more oil to the bigger top end or so the say & u have a big enough pump to run a NYC oil cooler. So they say couldn't tell the stock oil pump from the extra in the kit . I'm not 💯 for sure nice clean big bore complete, I have to actually pull my motor for a big bore frame is smack in the way for 150 to a 180cc & 30mm carb get ya moving
Fwd great vid !
hi im going into a engineering school. Im not a professional yet but i think you should lubricate the piston and its componets to avoid any internal damage at the first startups!
What you a fu... Russian
Exactly my thoughts.
Not to burst your bubble, engineers are not mechanics. In fact mechanics do not usually like engineers because you don’t make things functional.
@@MrSagerific95that may be, but engine assembly lube exists for a reason
@@Andy-df6gm as a professional mechanic and engine builder I agree 100%
Great video, very informative and well shot, much better than many. I've watched over a dozen videos with different motors, different kits all to get an idea of what problems others run across. Generally, they are all similar.
Anyway; None but one ever mentioned using assembly lube for re-installation. As cheap as that stuff is, I believe it is a must do step. Or at least use regular motor oil, (preferably heavy weight/thicker oil). I use a restaurant ketchup squeeze bottle and use straight 50W oil when I can't find my assembly lube. It sticks better.
You should pre-oil the wrist pins, the rings and cylinder, the lifters, (both the pivot points & all contact points), the chain tensioner as well as chain and sprocket. Any metal to metal wear points.
Then before you replace the plug, either hand turn or use a drill or the starter to turn over the motor several times to start the oil pumping through the engine before a hard start.
Then no matter how well oiled, let it idle for a minute or two to help seat everything then a short test drive, (short, no over revving or speed test). Then change the oil. Any metal shavings need to be removed right away. One video did mention to get a magnetic oil drain plug, good idea with or without a rebuild.
That is just my two cents worth; "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound or cure".
This is just a suggestion for my knowledge. I would love either a video or at least information on what the best setup would be for different size rebuilds, like, this 100cc upgrade, the best clutch setup, lighter or heavier weights on the flywheel, best carb jet size or better yet carburetor to replace, what CDI to use, etc. etc.
Thanks for the video, you did a great job.
49ccscoot does alot of the test this against that etc
i'm a computer guy, and i learned quite a lot from this video! i'm far from a mechanic, but i'll have more confidence tearing apart a motor now.
now to find a scooter project :D
Thanks for the video!
Makes want to try to work on one
Some tips:
When attaching the piston, already put one of the clips in the piston before you slide it on the crank. Easier ;) And very important, lube the piston and cylinder with engine oil. Don’t slide it on just like that. Same when montaging the headbolts, lube them and make shure the threads are clean before you torque them.
The piston rings and piston were lubricated prior to assembly. I believe what happened was when I was recording I pressed record for the second time and accidentally stopped recording. Lost the footage
@@Nthefastlane ah ok :) what weight rollers do you use in youre scooter? I got the 50mm kit as well with a 24mm carb and the head with larger ports and the performance camshaft. The scooter pulls well till about 25mph, flattens and starts pulling again at 30, maxes out at about 42mph. I got 6,5gr rollers and a performance exhaust with 27mm downpipe and a fake yoshimura muffler.
Did the same on my 2006 peace motorsports 50, previously bored it to 80cc and just recently went to 100cc and trust me on a50 with the small tires 65mph is almost to fast unless it's a nice smooth surface, I have to also be careful not to get caught speeding because in North Carolina anything over 50 cc and goes faster than 35 requires a motorcycle endorsement which I don't have, but anyways it really helped with the performance I also put a performance muffler and coil as well, down hill probably 70ish but i havnt had the balls to try it 😆. Tags and registration 24$ and 12$ a month insurance with Geico.
No gasket for the chain tensioner? You are a badass
Was just thinking this
Hey my friend I've been building engines for 30 years they're called dowel pens repeat dial pens they're not shims shims is like a flat piece of metal that you put between two other pieces of metal that is a dowel pen and you can look it up Google it to be correct just trying to correct you you doing a good job keep up the good work still got a lot to learn
Actually they're "Dowel Pins" not "Dowel Pens". Maybe autocorrect? But you are correct.
I'm not sure why I said shims, I knew what they were. Sometimes thinking about creating the video in the moment and paying attention to the work you're doing gets things mixed up sometimes.
And... converted. Thought I was going to have to drop the engine to make the swap, but everything you have removed is no different than what I have removed from my own scooter for other related maintenance. Thank you for clearing things up.
Bryan Butler Anytime Bryan, glad I could help!
@@Nthefastlane thoughts on polishing piston face?
You forgot to lube the piston and rings + cylinder!
And i installed a 80cc cylinder today and used some oil in the cylinder and piston. No smoke at first start up ( without exhaust ofcourse )
daand12 I dont know or any cops that carry micrometers.. just sayin
@@nctrooper10722001 iv had a bike impounded and checked before dude. Its not worth it.
@@nctrooper10722001 no but they don’t care anyway you’ve lost some compression and power because of excessive wear ;)
you gave yourself extra work taking off the throttle cable
Decent vid, I would recommend putting a film of heavy gear oil on the cylinder walls so the rings won't be dry rubbing until the oil pump forces oil up in there, just my 2 cents..
Barry Aiello I guess he doesn’t moisten his girl either he just goes in dry
Bro, thanks for this video. I recently got a rundown 2003 qingqi moped, and I'm having a hard time with it. I have no idea what I'm doing but this video is making the project less intimidating .
When u get the chance can u do a reverse video putting the parts back on?
Thanks I appreciate this video very much.
Another thing you want to do is use assembly lube on your wrist pin, inside the cylinder walls , and on your cam lobes and other various metal to metal contact points so installation is easier and you need some lubrication before the oil gets there in initial start up. Very important.
I mentioned this in the description under the video. TH-cam used to have annotations, but they removed them so all of my notes in the video got removed.
White lithium grease will work fine.
Use a rubber mallet.
The video was long but very informative, tink u did a great job too, I have a 125cc but im gonna get an upgrade kit of maybe 170 cc and also rejet my 26mm car, , hopefully I'll be on race track soon
Whenever I've done a head job I always use some oil on the cams etc helps with the first start no cooling cover not a good thing.
Hey Brian D,First make sure you bolted the 2 Black ground wires to the valve cover..without those you will not have enough ground and the lights will be dim.
quick tip on those carbs use a small dremell cutting wheel to put a groove in the screw then unscrew with a flat screwdriver.
doing it like this you can use the screws to reassemble.
Good tip.
Great video, Im looking at putting in a 80cc kit, so far I have the piston, rings, block and cam. Do I need to replace the carb or ignition system at all?? great videos mate very informative.
Hey Elton,First make sure you bolted the 2 Black ground wires to the valve cover..without those you will not have enough ground and the lights will be dim.
Thank you for supplying a link for the parts. I can't wait to make this change to my scooter :)
You have to use different rocker arms because the original ones don't reach the valve correctly.
My kit only came with one set of rocker arms do I use the original ones or the ones that came with the kit?
I had a couple of suggestions for doing this demo I would have taken the motor in gear trade out of the scooter and put it on a patch so that people will be able to see things more easily there's parts of your video to where you cannot see what's going on this would really help as a video for teaching people how to assemble this Bore Kit also I would suggest taking off the side cover and turning the crankshaft manually by using a socket and Ratchet this way if the person makes a mistake when installing the cam gear and chain where the timing is not right this way you will not Bend a valve just a precautionary measure because a lot of people have never put in a Big Bore Kit the cam sprocket is so tiny it would be really easy to be off a couple of notches and not even know it also is very important to show people how to make sure there crank is at top dead center and both valves are closed I hope the information I have talked about will help people and will help the man who made this video I think you did a really good job but these are some ideas that may help him make other videos in the future
The oil pump is a higher capacity pump, it flows more oil.. install it 100%. Bigger piston, bigger bore it will need more oil. Don't forget to lubricate the rocker arms,cam etc.. dont put them in dry
12:14 instead of using screwdriver to pry it out. a gentle tap with mallot helps.
23:40 apply a drop of oil before installing piston pin clips and piston ring and you won't need pliers to shove the clip in.
29:00 shims/guides are known by one more name. dowel pin.
There are so many comments, questions and points. But this is like puttin lipstick on a dog. A peace sport firstly. And an 80cc on that model would do fine. It's very light. But mostly why are you making a how to on something you are not well versed in..... But it all boils down to, thanks for keeping local scooter mechanics busy! You help alot. And 5/16? There is no standard its all metric. All u need os 8 10 12 14 17. Sometimes a 13mm thats it
I like your video! Informative and educating! I was impressed that you did your homework when describing the difference between the P39 and 139 models! Kudos sir! Kudos!
Nice one!! Might wanna let it idle for an hour for breaking in purposes before reving hard
Im getting that kit. But aint no way i wanna tackle that. I got a buddy for that.
But i did put a clutch and variator yesterday. What a difference it made.
Hey Brian D, the hose your talking about is just a emissions hose..if anything it slows you down..the new head that came with the kit has eliminated that port.
I left the shroud off, the fins on the cylinder head act as a heat sync, just like a computer heat sync on a chipset. Been running it for months with no problems.
you did not use any assembly lube or oil
The little bolts are 8mm yes a 5/16th will work if there not real tight but can srip them out just trying to help I enjoyed the video thanks
Hello, great video, and great explanation. Congrats! I have a baotian bt49qt with 139qma engine ( I assume it is the same engine as 139qmb) and it has lack of power and much blow-by at the cover vent. Where i live they don't sell bbk's, however they sell cylinder, piston and ring set for 80ccm, so if I go with that set would I have to change cam head and/or anything else like carburetor? Thanks
great installation haha he didn't even lubricant the cylinder 😂👌
Dam what carb is good to use
Good advice about the rocker arms, however, just for trial and error, I tried to put the rocker arms the wrong way and found it’s not possible. The casing will not allow the cam shaft to fit. I did find it WAY easier to oil the cylinder before installing the piston.
Awesome video man, really detailed. I was worried about tearing into this thing but I think I've got it down now!
aaron71 You got this 👊
I get over 53mphnow, before I would max out around 38mph Don.
Dont forget to lube the engine when mounting the kit with engineoil, to prevent drystart. thats a big problem if it fires without any oil lubricates the cilynder walls when new.
Exhaust is .004
Little RTV goes a long way
Buy a Kevlar belt as a 100cc will eat it up
Get bigger carb... not just jets
Bigger v.weights better clutch.
Great job bud.
Yes, the T is just a indicator for the line in front of it which is the real TDC line.
Last time I did work on the engine on a "baotian" 4-stroke scooter, I actually removed the entire rear from the frame - was so much easier to work on it.
Great vid man wouod tht kit work on most 50cc scooters? Also is it necessary to change jets n rollers??
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
does the kit online come with the carb that will work with the big bore kit or do i have to modify the carburator?...also will putting a no limit cdi in my taotao vip raise the rpms?
Ken Paecht is your scooter running??
excellent work 👏
50mm bore is 81,25cc ;) The biggest I have seen with no stroking is 89cc which is 52,4mm bore. I am running 72cc on mine which is 47mm bore. Still a great video tutorial for changing cylinder :) My next step will be cam and bigger valve head.
Did u use the valve head from the 39 mm,just wondering if it will work to use the 39mm valve head on a bigger bore
@@chrislavalley4062 It works, but I have another head with bigger valves.
Will the piston hit the head,I have a 50 mm big bore with the valves that match it but my exhaust valve leaks so I was wondering if I could take my old 39mm valve head and put it on the 50 mm
@@chrislavalley4062 Yes, I said it works. It wont hit.
When I was young, I was good with LEGO.
And
40 people understood this and i am not one
@@BigBoyMemer It means when he was younger he was good with lego and at the same age, this guy is assembling an engine in a scooter; which is a more complex task.
@@sebikelife1262 The joke is that when he was younger he was good with lego and at the same age, this guy is assembling an engine in a scooter; which is a more complex task.
Great video. Question though, did one of the new rocker arms not slide into place easily? For me, one fit perfectly, the other will not fit in between the two walls.
Instead of squeezing the clip and possibly bending or distorting the clip, insert the clip the same way you did , but use a scribe into the same notch , but you can insert the scribe into the notch but outside the clip then pry the clip inward with the scribe. This way you are only affecting one portion of the clip.
If anything it breathes alot better..even plastic will hold the heat in.
Everything is unavailable where else i can order this kit for the peace
I just checked the stores that I have pinned in the top comments and in the description, all of the products are in there?
Yes I know it's 82cc but they call it a 100cc kit. The stock fan shroud still should fit..It's in the air right now, but I might make a big cpu fan with a temp censer attached to the head.
Thank you for your video. I have a question, I have a Lance Cali Classic 50cc , How could I change it to 100cc. Thank you.
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
Hey I follow this video step by step and I messed up on a few things.
1. I did not put the heat shield back on
2. I did not put my exhaust gasket back on.
3. I did not adjust my rockers properly
I am not blaming the video, I just was tired and ready to put it back together
@James Burke technically a 5/16 inch socket is comparable to a 7.9375 mm which is a tighter fit then a 8mm :)
I don't get it. Are you saying it's a good idea to try to buy a 5/16" wrench somewhere instead of using a standard 8MM? My 8mm seems to work OK.
RJ Burke
I was just saying there both soo close to size it wouldn't matter..were talking 10ths of thousands of an inch here lol.
When I pulled my 50cc off mine it had a total of 6 guides or shims . Should I install them just like yours for my 100cc big bore kit. Is that just how the 50cc is?
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
Very nice DIY video, What your scooter brand, I have 2009 KYMCO Super 8 125cc all stock, what basic upgrade do i need beside upgrading to high displacement? Thanks!
Awsome dude. Very helpful. Want to ask u. I want to use a performance air filter but not sur what to do with the crankcase vent hose. Where should it go since no nipple for it in the performance air filter?
Excellent DIY!! I have a question for you. How did you go about cooling this engine, as the stock cooling shroud no longer fits.
Great video man I feel confident to DIY is the kymco 2017 super 8 x50 the same motor??
So if you make this modification, does your "50cc" scooter then need to be tagged and registered??
Christine Braaten I dont know any cops that carry micrometers
Technically its now a motorcycle, but don't tell anybody. It still looks like a 50cc to the police.
You shouldve oiled the piston and cylinder before putting them on. Also there is a torque spec for the headbolts and side bolts. And the gapping is off, the intake should be a bigger gap than the exhaust.
Joey Taber nah they can be gapped at the same size
Joey Taber they can be the same, I run a Lada Niva and the valve lash is the same. But if the are different, the exhaust is in my experience the larger gap due to the fact that they run a higher temperature and expand more at operating temperature.
Any idea the compression ratio? Or cranking psi? Can the head be shaved . 010"-.020" to get a bit more squeeze!?!? Bit a bigger BANG, also do the to make a larger carbonator for these monsters? Would a 125cc motorcycle carb possibly work on these, or maybe a 125-200cc motorcycle carb , I noticed on my scooter, the carb made a major difference, not having the proper carb, was like only having half throttle available, I think it may be worth looking into! It's very easy to sit here behind the screen, saying how about this and that, but nice work/video, greatly explained, great details! I have built many car engines and a few motorcycle engines, but never a scooter engine, I even built a 200cc Suzuki engine, bored , polished ported head, shaved, with a cam with the base circle turned down a bit, not professional at all, but it seemed to work, it sounded a bit like a Harley, with no muffler, only the head pipe, and it was loud!! Made decent power, it had about . 050" more lift, and the compression was a good bit higher, kick-starting was a but sketchy, ya had to be careful!! It nearly three be over the bars a few times! Great work, sorry about the rambling!!
for the 90cc on a kymco super 8 I take the 50 head, that combination works fine also the 50cc camshaft, up there you have to go fit, experience say that, with this setup you get with tight running almost the 100km / h 80cc 86 nozzle 50cc head / 50cc camshaft, drive in at 50km / h then full throttle and do it in such a way to speed up and take off, giving a little to his thunder, so the cylinder is not lazy either.
Awsome!! how much faster did it go after all the mods?
Great vid, btw what size jet did you end up using, did you have to change anything else in carb dept.? Thanks again!
I can't find the moment when you installed the
camshaft. Was it included in this big bore kit?
IT WAS IN THERE, YOU SKIPPED OVER IT
I ask you a transmission question that needs to be changed because to run a little more you have to change to.
Will you ever do anything with a Whizzer motorbike ? My only changes I did on mine was the high compression head, echo pipe and twist grip controls. Before it was 2, 5 HP and 35 MPH. after 3.0 HP and 40 MPH. I was 16 then, now 80.
Buy some Gray Permatex RTV Silicone @ Walmart and paste it on and reassemble..you'll have no more leaks.
Hi, when you took off the plastic cover surrounding the engine, did you leave it off? I was just wondering because I was thinking I leaving mine off, but wondered if it caused any further problems? Such as cooling problems
Thanks
James Towse how are you thinking ? The plastic covers Cools down the engine with the fan on the side !
Without the plastics it will overheat
hey, I've got a question about the 100cc kit. I found one without all the extra accesoires like; exhaust, muffler, gaskets and most important cilinder head.
My question is, do I need a specific 100cc head or is the standard head also going to work?
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
You should ALWAYS put some oil on the wrist pin and piston and rings with your fingers. This allows for proper break in on a cold first start. NEVER assemble dry🙄
I did everything your video suggested and my scooter started just fine and ran as fast as yours did but after 3 starts I noticed the starter struggles to start the bike. I can kick start it but now the starter can't start the bike at all. Does anybody have any suggestions? The battery is new and charged.
if you left off the plastic shrouds for the fan driven cooling air like our intrepid host, you probably fried your engine. does it spin freely with the plug out if you kick it, or does it go a quarter turn and stick?
No matter what I do to try to get the pins out for the rockers it's not working is there a special tool I can buy or use to pull those out?
When you thread your timing chain can you use a magnet
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video but did you have to change your crankcase?
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
Do you need to change also the up side or only the two partz
Clamp the hose under the tank with some locking pliers and you'll be fine.
If I get a kit without a camshaft and buy an 89 cam on the side, can I use the existing cam chain my scooter literally has five hours on it. Just wanted to put a kit on it because it’s gutless.
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
Good job kid keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis Maryland
@Nthefastlane Isn't that rod going to break under that much compression? u need to change to a stronger rod aswell?
that thing you kept calling a heat shield is for keeping the motor cool, yours will overheat indefinitely
I just did the conversion but I'm stuck at the rocker arms cause I don't know if I have to change them like you did please help me bro
It's pretty simple. If you have the 69 mm valve length then you need a 69 mm rocker arm assembly. If you have a 64 mm valve length then you need a 64 mm rocker assembly.
Take a digital caliper and measure from the top to the bottom of the valve. It'll either be 64 mm or 69 mm. That's how you will know which rocker arm assembly you need.
Just for you I added the 64 mm and the 69 mm rocker assembly that's completely assembled. It's really cheap so if you don't want to do the swap you can just order it pre-assembled. I pin my store to the top comments, but here's a link for you..
www.nthefastlane.com/gy6-scooter-50cc-to-100cc-kit-store
@Nthefastlane ok so I had the 64mm valve but changed it to the new 69mm. do I keep the old arms and swap the bracket or keep the bracket and swap arms from old to new ??
Is it true adding a big bore kit to upgrade from 50cc to 100cc can crack your engine block and or cylinder?
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
I did the big bore kit and performance cvt but now when i give more then half throttle the bike boggs out. Do I need bigger jets in my carb?
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
The cylinder head is the same size as the original one and the valves. Is that going to make a difference in performance? Shouldn't the valves and the chamber be larger to accommodate for the piston size
Hey, may be a dumb question but did you drain all the oil, gas before, then add new oil after? Also, I'm just making sure you said you ran a 150cc carb because the 85 jet didn't work? Wouldn't that be running it too rich? Thanks
No, left everything inside..Nope, it loves a stock 150cc 24mm carb with a sponge filter.
I'm installing a 100cc bbk, why is there a greater clearance between the valve adjustment screew and the plate on the bottom of the valve. There wasn't any issue with the intake, but on the exhaust side, I don't have any enough threads on the screw to tighten the lock nut??????
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
Can I get a list of tools to have to work on scooters.
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
I want to change my piston in my scooter bike to a bigger one but how much speed u got
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
What kind of scooter/moped is this?How fast did it used to go/top,speed?How fast does it go now, after installing kit/top speed now?
So what would happen if I left the same carb on the moped? And do I need to buy all the things u did or just the gy6 big bore conversion kit
good job , the only constructive info that i can inject , is to lube all new parts with a coat of oil , especially the cylinder bore . and to use a dab of locktite on the rocker arm adjusting nuts , which seem to back off and loosen at times . the x tra horsepower is really worth the time and money that you put into it . and it is none of the governments buisness that the xtra 50 cc's was added . Great job explaining , to the do it yourselfer
Could I do this on my 50cc moped Big Bore Kit what would it do get more speed
Thank you for the question. I have answered your question here: th-cam.com/video/xnBtKxbpJIU/w-d-xo.html
This seems like a lot of work. It it all absolutely necessary or is some of it optional or what, what's the deal.
Hey thanks for the extra input, Appreciated..and thanks!
Very good video but you forgot to put on cooling plastics , i recommend not to run scooter for too long (for testing okay) but not for driving :) Your brand new set will overheat .
That's probably a 72cc Kit you got there, there are no 100cc Kits for Gy6 139qmb Engines. The biggest one is the 90cc kit from Naraku which also has bigger Valves. Oh and btw how long did it take you to ruin the Engine due to overheating because you didn't put the Fan Shroud back on? Seriously this is not the way to do it! Otherwise great Video
did you have to change the things in the variator and clutch or not?
The only thing I change was the variator weights to 7g and upgraded the carburetor to a 24mm with a 105 main jet. I added the 150cc intake neck and foam filter. Did 56mph on flat ground. It all can be found in my store link.
@@Nthefastlane alright man thanks for the info have a nice day
@@Nthefastlane Do you have any idea why mine can only hit 47 downhill? 104 jet.
Does adjusting valves help?