Emergency automatic switch from power supply to battery 12V module
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2021
- Power Supply Battery Controller, Emergency Automatic Switch Module DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 10A for Emergency Battery Switching
Yeah, that. Swaps from power supply to the battery if the power goes out saving your heater.
The module - amzn.to/3a2FzxQ
![[ไฮไลต์] ฟุตบอลชาย ญี่ปุ่น vs ปารากวัย รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X_BeGaAv1oM/mqdefault.jpg)
I had an issue with unreliable mains supply, so I ran an adjustable power supply into the panel input of a cheap own solar controller: mains goes off and heater kept going. Had that setup for over a year with no problems. I set the PSU to 13.2v to avoid off gassing. Hope this is useful!
Thanks so much for your videos on these, and other accessories and heaters! They’ve been a GODSEND to a noob lol. Plus my 6 year old daughter is walking round the house shouting HELOOOOOOOO 😂👌 liked several and subbed.
fantastic help mate ive been researching for days now and finally found the answer
Relay with a mains voltage coil may be a better solution, as the capacitors in the primary of the power supply would still allow it to provide output fractionally longer than the time it takes for the relay to change over.
Quick enough for no perceivable dropout on mains failure but no good for the mains coming back on as the PSU may have about a 1 second startup delay.
Or, turn the power supply up to 13.5V-14.0V if possible and just connect the relay contact in series with the PSU output so that the regulator in the PSU cannot drain the battery when the mains is off.
This arrangement depends on the type of current limiting in the power supply though, as you're asking it to behave as a battery charger. Some don't like that.
Cheers David that was a great help I did buy one and it was how you showed it took a second or to to switch so I didn’t check if it continued to do it cool down sequence so I will give it another chance cheers great video
Regards John
Just parallel the battery and charger David. Put a diode in either or both sources if you don't want to backfeed the power supply by the battery or the battery from the power supply, but I'd forget all that and just parallel the two sources (assuming the voltages are similar).
Exactly what I did with mine
Did you parallel a battery, charger and power supply? The PSU I have is only 12V so it won't charge the battery.
@@DavidMcLuckie 10 amp charger feeding the battery, afterburner does a shut down if the battery goes low voltage
@Benny Are you saying to do this instead of even using that module? Or would you want a power supply, battery(+charger) and a diode for each?
@@Dip-it Yes for the setup David has. Module is not really adding any value but is reducing the reliability of the system and costing money. Oh, the power to the controller won't drop out either.
this works Awesome ! I run a AC 110V - 220V TO DC 12V Regulated Transformer Power Supply (15A) then I hooked up the back up module up for battery back up on my Diesel heater . and a solar panel & controller to charge the battery .Thanx again
A better solution has been proposed by Alastair Reynolds and his design is simple, cheap, highly reliable and does not suffer from 12V interruption. Well done David for sharing your experience. Keep inventing.
Do you have a link?
Have you a link please
Will this also keep the battery charged?
@@rolandwakeman3391 yes, the psu charge the battery via the 22R resistor. You need to keep the psu on.
yes, it will @@rolandwakeman3391
I was thinking that some p channel mosfets may work a treat instead of the relay. When drawing massive amounts of current, the slow failover may cause a blackout as opposed to a brown out.
If you look at the Am*zon advert for this item (in the notes) it does say that “When it switches, there will be a temporary power failure for about less than 1 second.“ I’m going to translate this as “probably, maybe, possibly, could be a bit too long” for this configuration.
I’d be tempted to go for an intelligent-ish (minimum 3 stage - bulk, absorb, maintain) 10A charger in place of the mains power supply, directly feeding/charging/maintaining the battery, then power the heater from that - a bit like a UPS without the step down & up stages (and the “tingly” voltages on the exposed battery terminals 😉) Even if it runs until the battery voltage reaches the heaters cut off threshold during a power cut it will complete the proper shutdown sequence with the glow plug.
Great information as always 👍
The main thing is that it runs the cool down cycle. I’m thinking that a standard 12v relay would do the same thin. Connect all the - together, PSU 12+ to activate relay and also to normally open terminal and Battery 12v+ to normally closed terminal and then the 12v+ to heater from the common. It’ll switch in the same way but know the chinese and the electronics the chances are that board probably costs less than a relay 😃.
Would a 12v PSU connected via a computer UPS provide faster switching to maintain the heater switched on? Chances are it may not last for long enough before battery was depleted and gave up.
Interesting concept though just the same.
I think it's the PSU that's holding the relay on for too long between powering off and switching over, owing to capacitors storing enough charge to keep the relay closed, causing the heater to conk out and reset, only way I can think of to resolve that would be another mains-coil relay that is on the 240v side of the PSU that cuts the 12v output from the PSU off the moment the power is lost, thus cutting out the caps and (hopefully!!!) switching the switchover relay off faster... :)
Thanks! I was looking for how it looks/called.
i think this is an outstanding solution, it avoids meltdowns and runs the fan thru cool down, to me a perfect safety solution
The power supply is set to low to charge the battery completely. The standard charging voltage from your car is 14.5 volts. This does not help your switching problem but it will improve battery performance and make your battery survive longer.
if you put 13.8v to 14.1v charger to the battery from the mains the heater would continue to run when the mains went down and charge the battery when the heater is not in use. and you could put a battery protection inline to stop the battery over discharging say stopping at 12.2v
This should be perfect for me. All I want is something to keep from cooking the motherboard if the main power goes out. Seems like this should work.
You just need a few extras on that module so it has capacitors so it smooths out the 2 second power cut
Thank you Love the Hello in you’re videos
Brilliant thanks for the information
If you added a 10.000uf cap say 2 of them would that be enough on the out put as the relay switches
This should be enough for the current draw
Nice, but I reckon it would be a good feature to add to the aftermarket controllers, low voltage shutdown so the heater runs down gracefully and doesn't coke up.
As luck would have it the Afterburner does have automatic low voltage shutdown. I probably should have started with the stock controller.
I do a variation of what has been suggested here in other comments. I used my 52V e-bike battery attached to a smart charger. The output from the battery is then connected to a 12v output boost converter that keeps the voltage to the heater at 12.22v all the time. I'm guessing the heater likes the constant nature of the voltage. This setup avoids the up and down cycle of the battery depending on the state of charge. Because I don't ride my bike in the winter, this helped me avoid buying a new battery and it will easily run the heater for more than 24 hours without the charger in case of a power outage. Actually, it will probably run the heater for near 36 hours but I have never tested it.
Try the 12V 150W Backup Battery Switching Module high power Board Automatic switching battery power XH-M350.
Looks like a faster transfer time.
David, for an uninterpted power supply you would need to route the power through the battery from the mains? When the mains goes down the battery would already be in circuit? Keep up the good work!
I bought the same board. Is it ok that negative from 2 different power sources is common. On that board the negatives have continuity. I am using this to power a backup fan I case heater shuts down before cool down.
Probably you should connect diode bridge and big capacitor after diode between relay controller and heater. And then capacitor should keep power till relay changes from psu to battery
I come for the helllloooooooo and stay for the tips!
No, what you do is run the heater from the battery but have the battery permanently being charged. If there is a power cut the charger stops but the battery continues to power the heater
Yes, as long as you are using at least a 10A charger.
Have you tried the same test with a ssr relay?
I just run mine in line with my battery I take my 12 volt power supply and connect it to my 12 volt battery that way it keeps my battery charged without overcharging it and why it's running the batteries act as like it's not even there so if I lose power it's already connected to the 12 volt battery no magic switches or other complicated devices to purchase just go from the power supply to the battery to the diesel heater keep it stupid simple that's my motto
Basically you kind of like the connection in a vehicle you have an alternator a battery in this case the alternator is the power supply
Great vid.
let your ps charge the battery and parallels the heater with the battery. set the ps to keep batt charged. 1 have 4 set up that way works great
@martehoudesheldt5885 can you explain exactly how you achieved that?
Hej! Ile A pobiera twoje webasto przy rozruchu? Przekaźnik wytrzyma 15A? Szukam tego wszedzie i nie mogę znaleźć dzięki za film!👍
Hi me dh in a box will run off 240 to 12v 12v direct and a back up battery we use caravan conditions, and andison any ideas how to do this. The main problem is where to fit in the Anderson 12v direct. I might use a 3 way switch as used these before
can we change the priority on another way?
why did you use a power failure switch and not a simple diode?
is the device charge bettery during power supply mode??
Okay. So I see a problem. The product description says the the the same voltage is required for the power supply, the battery and the load for this work. But a 12v battery requires a higher voltage for it to charge - 13.5 to 15 volts. Then the battery supplies 12volts to for example a 12volt Lighting circuit - the Load. How can this work then if the voltage must be the same for the supply, the battery & the load? The battery won't charge and will eventually go flat if this is the case. What are solutions so you don't have to keep changing the battery?
Question, and you have possibly done a video on this and I just haven't seen it yet but: How long would one of those heaters run on a battery alone?
Every battery is different, and each battery changes capacity over time. So one needs to know their battery's capacity and state of charge, then work out how long that battery lasts on an approximate 2 Amp draw of a running heater. Some heaters draw more or less.
Awesome thanks for the information
what is the industial (din rail) replacement for this module?
how do you charge the battery..
could you not just use a 12v SPDT relay.. when the power supply is on the relay coil is energized and the live is passed through the relay and when power fails the live switched to the battery?
i know the voltage would change quickly but would the heater care?
That sounds like something to try. :)
di you do a Diode Test?
As others have already said, put a capacitor across the live to the heater. A 16 volt 3300uF might do it?
50v electrolytic at 4700uf would be my pick most power supply`s run these so easy to find
Rob
NSW Australia
Just need to open up a scrap washing machine, or something else that might have a cap inside, and find the biggest, fattest one in it, and connect that.
@@13yearsaprepperr.jtilbury.51 Hi, could you explain in more detail for the layman please👍👍
@@Woodlandbill bit late but for anyone else. The capacitor will act like a mini battery. When the relay flicks over to the backup power source the capacitor will power the heater for the brief changeover.
TBH tho, I think I prefer the way it works now, since my backup power is just to protect the heater and allow it to cooldown properly. Mine's powered from a leisure battery in the van, if that loses power then it forces the shutdown but gets the power from the starter battery. I wouldn't want it to possibly flatten the starter battery too.
Hiya David love your videos Good down to earth stuff I fitted up a voltage drop unit Works fine Except when I connect it to the pump wire It keep blowing fuses to the voltage drop controller Had a 5 amp 10 amp and 15 amp blew them all after 4 or 5 mins Any ideas as to the problem Regards Ronnie
The fuel pump should only ever be connected to the heater.
Having your heater on tins of pain is a little unsafe ?
I like the concept, but relays are known to fail.
Just connect the power supply directly to battery, and this ensures the battery is always fully charged. 👍
Actually, i'm looking for a module similar to yours, but to control the charge voltage/s
eg/ stops charging @ 13.2v (70%), and to kick back in @12.8v (17%) on a LifePO4 battery to maximise 'cycles'
Dunno if such a module exists as I haven't found one as yet.
Hi I’m not electrical minded but was wandering if I put the battery on constant charge, then connect the battery to heater, would that work?
Yes. You'd just have to make sure your charger can output the 5A the heater can use during running, otherwise it'll flatten the battery.
Why not just have a charger on the battery that maintains its level and if the power drops out, so what? If the battery is gonna be in the mix, why not have the battery be the failsafe. At least then the heater remains on. What am I missing?
IS THERE AWAY TO THERMOSTATILY CONTROL HEATER ?
How 🤔 could we decrease that 2 second delay?
Amazon won’t ship to the u.s. but I found one a eBay by searching for emergency automatic switch module. Less than $5 but I couldn’t find any American stock, only Chinese. This will work in my r.v. I just want to keep from melting something before I can figure out what happened.
a changeover 12v relay would probably do what you want.
What happens when u turn the mains power back on whilst the heater is running on battery power?
Would it work better with the battery and mains terminals switched around?
Love your videos dude 😀👍
I've learned a lot from u and wish I had found your channel sooner. I'll be fitting my diesel heater in me van when the weather gets better and want a mains power and battery's power with auto switching
It switches back over instantly.
Think what he means is does it do the same as the power turned off at the wall. If it's running on battery, throwing heat out and you turn the power on at the wall. Will it continue to work in heat mode or go to cooling. I was thinking what this guy's just asked. What's that outcome on that one
@@paulos9304 yes that's what I meant, sorry I thought I explained it properly, it must be my brummy accent 😂🤣
@@manstufftvOriginal lol. My Northumbrian ain't any better. I'm not sure if the switches over instantly reply means it works as we are trying to say or if it is the same as what it did when turned off at the wall. The second delay power drop puts the heater into cooling mode. Maybe Dave will get back to us on that one
@@paulos9304 🤞 he does, I've ordered 1 from banggood for just a few quid so I'll see for myself in a month or 3 🤣😂
Does the glow plug come on during a "Normal" shutdown, I don't think they do?
Yes. Every shutdown, to burn off the residual fuel and help clean the starting mesh.
Maybe a capacitor on the heater wires would hold enough charge to keep the heater powered for the time the relay unit take to switch over.
You can just run it on your battery and keep the power supply to keep your battery up
What battery do we need? Links please
Hi, what is the module no: you using ? 🤔
_Interesting!_
I want to use this controller with a off grid setup. I want my 12v 50ah battery to be the primary power supply, and a smaller 12v 10ah battery for the backup, just to run the cool down cycle. Does anyone see any problems with this?
Hi can’t you help the guys with the @Ship Happens so they get their diesel heater up and running 😃 i think you are in the same country 😅
David, as always great vid! I've no definitive solution just an idea, a novice one at that. Would the AC to DC regulator supply, connected direct to the battery or a smart charger to the battery give a constant reliable supply and charge at 12v, with either. the battery could act as a through charging device be able to deliver the amps required to start, stop the diesel heater, therefore there would be no interruption of power because if the AC supply is terminated, not in an alcapone way! The battery would still have the rough 40 to 47 Watts available power and maintain continue power, until the AC is restored or heater is shut down upon power outage. Being a novice I expect a negative come back, but as a novice wannabe, I foresee the 2 second switch is because theres 2 negs and 2 pos Seperate with no direct link, with the ac taking a taking primary role, whilst if they were joined, there should be no physical delay in the break of power.. Also would the ac to DC regulator deliver a constant battery charge, with an inline safety fuse in place, to protect the wires and prevent over charge. I await if any your thoughts. I ask, because I use an allpowers solar generator in my van, linked to the 12v leisure battery, using it as they say a through charge., there's some reduction of leisure battery, on the road charging but after an hours drive, also a full generator charge, I disconnect and qed the leisure gets charged as normal, plus I've solar from vans roof on a direct link to the allpowers genny, which has its own mppt, so I understand it to be safe and self monitoring. Cheers and keep these unique videos coming, Mrs loves you quirky Scottish play on words. She has her own being a irish
Yes. A lot of people run like that. Sometimes the 'smart' chargers don't like the constant draw of the heater and see it as a battery fault. But a 'dumb' charger that just sits at the float voltage for the battery works. If you get one that charges with about the same amps as the heater uses while running, it'll run the heater and leave the battery fully charged.
@@DavidMcLuckie do you know how long the cooldown cycle runs for and how large of a battery is needed to do this? Will a lawn tractor battery be sufficient?
Thank you for all your great videos 😊
Ray
Someone please make schematics for this relay please
Why not just use the mains power to charge the battery via a battery charger & run the heater directly from the battery? 🤔
Yeah, battery charger on supply mode.
Would a 'dumb' charger be better than a 'smart' one in this setup? After the initial 10A at startup the heaters can draw 5A running at max power.
@@DavidMcLuckie I’m using a Halfords Smart Charger rated at 5.4A on my Chinese diesel 5KW Heater running around 8hrs per day & it’s coping with the demand ok.. Great channel btw 👍
I used a 2amp smart charger, heater settings on medium fan speed (cause that's all I needed to heat my shop comfortably and prolong the life of my heater ) and after 2 months the agm battery remained with constant 12.6 voltage. 🙂
Nice..
Diode and a fat capacitor = no interruptions? :)
Yeah. He should try it.
Any recommendations I can try?
can i purchace it,from to srilanka
Will this module also help charge the battery ….
Negative. Just a low voltage switch basically.
Genius
I cannot find an automatic switch that handles DC to DC 48 v array 100 amps
I am not using an inverter,
I have two 48v solar battery array, I want to use one as a back up, the only item I have hooked to it is connected directly to the MPPT charger.
I would like to switch automatically one battery power bank to another when the voltage drop, the switch’s I found don’t handle 100amp input.
Any suggestions how to find?
I don’t want inverters at all, it would not be necessary for my application, it would only add problems.
Thank you
Why not use the small module to switch more powerful relays that match your requirement?
Can anybody help me. I have a truma water heating system in my new caravan and has an error code which says ..... heater has no 12v power supply. How do I locate the wire 😭😭😭only just bought it paid 16k and don't know what to do. I've joined all the caravan forums but no luck
I was thinking as already mention before. Just wire the heater to the battery and have a battery charger also connected to the battery. If the power is cut then there is no difference in power to the heater.
This is what I do and so far works like a charm.
the better way to do this would be a pwm solar charge controller
Using a good capacitor there will be no stops when changing currents.
I use a 5 pin 30A automotive changeover relay to automatically switch over to battery power in case of mains power cut.
Hi friend where can I get one
@@mazman8343 Automotive shop, garage, EBay, perhaps even Halfords.
@@tkaald Would the TEMCo CN0169 do the trick? I don't see the switch over speed for that but...
I found something on ebay from a ham radio guy that says his switches in 7ms ("Backup power transfer switch Repeater Battery Backup DC Switching System" PWRgate sold by radiodan-w7rf). Think that's fast enough?
Curious if you've had success with something specific I can compare specs to.
Can u post the link to the relay?
Could not make out what he said about the first two wires, ran it several times.
The green ones?
i recently did this myself. all i used was a 5 pin reljust have to bridge 87 and 87a. and then each power source goes into 87 and 87a inviduallly. and then pin 30 going to power said device. and 85 to ground
much simpler. and no need for this module that can get fried!
This may be a quick thing to show - what happens if your power browns out and your battery is not fully charged?
A mini ats
helllloooo. david.. lolol... i think you should know that the power supply dose ..NOT switch of .. just fades out so the switch can not do its job..? ok .. try pulling the lead out of the power supply instead... PLEASE. yours .. the radiator guy.. lolol had me first jab ya hooooo
Ceeeeontact 😁👍
just a relay
If am I have 2 batteries 32V 10Ah this one work as well?
Yes. Can switch between batteries.
Rats , waa hoping it would work ! Maybe someone makes a relay that's faster!?
I've been told you can use a 5 pin relay which should switch instantly. I have not tried it yet.
I use a Chinese power supply with a built-in trickle charger and a 7Ah battery. It acts as a UPS and shuts down oncel the battery voltage goes low. Thanks to @deoxyrobo for the idea.
I have my PSU set to 13.5 volts, it connects to my CDH and also to my battery, when the power goes out the battery keeps it all going and the only power consumed by the PSU when the mains is off is the amount needed to light the LED on the PSU, tested 10 ways to hell and it works with no fancy switching gear. It also keeps the battery on float charge of 13.5 volts when the mains power is on. My unit does not even blink when the mains supply goes down.
put up a video showing your setup so it may help others or even send the info to David so he can make a video about it.
@@CBdesigns70 He should be able to sort it with the info I provided above
@@MayTheLightBeWithYou I just run off my old mondeo battery that could no longer start the car on a cold morning and basic (not dumb but not inteligent) Halfords charger and everything seems happy. I do have a spare 240 > 12v psu but never got round to using it since the battery and charger works just as good if not better than relays and diodes etc. Other people and those learning may have been interested in your solution tho.
@@CBdesigns70 I posted to a group called Chinese Diesel Heaters UK, you would not believe the number of idiots on that site, I simply cannot be bothered with that crowd and shall keep my years of education and experience to myself, I've no patience left for idiots
@@MayTheLightBeWithYou I would believe you as I have been having a chuckle reading thru some of the posts in the group. it`s like the blind leading the blind and the uninformed spreading cdh gospel news and lies then flaming each other fir posting shit.. I only use FB groups when I need to relax and lighten the mood every now and again. the best one is the afterburner page where you get permaban for thinking ray`s name under your breath never mind asking a question that he may not like. I am sorry but Ray is not a GOD but he has done some good research and work with Afterburner. each to there own i suppose. The little remote keyfob is all I need to start up the heating in my man cave from the house before I toodle out for a few hours work (reading the internet away from (Hur indoors)) lol
ER DIODE OR 2 :) = SAME
sent a message :)
Add a 12v 100A Super Capacitor .
You do it wrong for a purpose. 🤣😂
No fuse on that big F off battery! If you short those kebab style probes together while testing, it wont end well! 🙄🙄
We die like real men.
Folksy, but write a script and test first.
Learning from doing.
What's the fun in that? 🙂