Upgraded All Metal Hot-End for Anycubic Kobra
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2023
- The Anycubic Kobra had the potential to be an awesome 3d printer. Now, with this all metal hot end upgrade, it is an awesome 3d printer. This is not a cheap upgrade but a quality upgrade. I love my Kobra once again.
Heater Block
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
Bimetal Heatbreak
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
Capricorn Tubing if you need it
www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgra...
If you have a kobra 2 you can replace the heatbreak with a bi-metal one from a CR6 and this will allow you to use standard volcano nozzles. You will need to adjust the height of the inductive probe, run a PID autotune and set your z offset but it is a perfect fit.
this is gold, thank you
@@martinsmith2948 Welcome. Just for a heads-up I have also heard that the bi-metal heatbreak for a vyper is a better option. I haven't had so much as a single problem with the CR6 SE one I have and there is literally a dozen kg through it.
Thanks for showing how to do this! I did this on my Kobra Neo with a similar set of parts. The process works there too, though some of the screws are located in different places. Some stuff not mentioned here that may trip up beginners (like me) who are doing this for the first time:
- you have to loosen some small screws inside the old hotend to get the heating element and thermistor out and then tighten similar screws on the new hotend.
- there's a screw to change the height of the leveling sensor. Anycubic actually has a video out on how to adjust it.
- there's some subtlety to choosing how far in to screw the nozzle vs how far in to screw the heat break. As far as I can tell, the best thing to do is tighten the nozzle so there's a gap, but not a huge one, then tighten the heat break to match that. They should both be pretty well connected, but may both have some threads showing outside the hotend.
- matching the length of the new PTFE tube is done relative to the top of the heat break, not some other part of the assembly. The heat break is the only part that matters for the PTFE tube.
- A little thermal paste on the part of the heat break that contacts the heat sink is probably also a good idea. I used thermal grizzly kryonaut because even really high temps are still in spec for that paste. Other stuff would probably work perfectly fine though since it's fairly separated from the hotend.
I haven't settled on whether it's necessary to change the cooling setup because of this upgrade. It seems to be working no worse than before, but I was already looking at upgrading the cooling to help avoid issues with distortions in some overhangs.
My main reason for swapping this out was that I wanted to try out some stuff toward the upper end of the range of temps the printer supports without having to worry about the PTFE tube degrading rapidly and creating toxic fumes. I'm pleased with the upgrade thus far. Hopefully it holds up well.
Not every hero wears a cape! Working on installing mine. Half done as I ordered a set that didn’t come with the thermistor wires but those will arrive tomorrow!
Good job, I have installed bi-metall on my anycubic i3 and now it is perfect!
Thanks for this! I'm going to try this
For now all I did was swap out factory tubing with the blue stuff. It's printing petg pretty good now.
Thank you so much for this will be getting one for sure i use mine manily for my hobby of rc planes but have recently had problems with the extruder stepper motor chattering checked for blockegs checked temp changed stepper motor checked driver voltage all ok iam at a bit of a brain jam wondered if you had any idea any thanks again
This is a great video on how to disassemble your print head. th-cam.com/video/HYwl5IAt0lw/w-d-xo.html
Does the placement of cartridge and admistor need to be adjusted or calibrated?
Hello mate, thanks for the guide!! one question I have the Kobra neo, i guess its the same hotend, but i see that you purchase the V5 bimetal heatbreak instead of the v6 why is that?
Hello, I have replicated your guide on a Kobra Neo and I find that the teflon tube does not fit the heat-break. This is because the outside diameter of the tube is 4mm and the inside diameter of the heat-breaker is 4.20mm. The stock tube is ~4.15mm, and so it fits better.
What did you do with this problem? Does it matter what the gap is?
Regards
I have a Kobra (base model) 3d printer and am having trouble. My original print head stopped feeding filament after a certain amount of use. I replaced the hot-end and the problem still exists. I have tried different filaments with no difference. Until recently, I was able to make things just fine. This article made me realize that the Kobra (base model) has its filament drive as part of the print head. Where other Kobra models have a separate filament drive. Is there an advantage in later Kobra models?
what about the fan thats hanging in the video. does that fit in the old position?
Great video. Can you hold your phone the correct way for your next video please. (the world is mainly horizontal ;-)
Can you use a v6 heat block instead of the one you show in the video?
I found a heatbreak exact fit. Changed it, all worked great till I did a bed level. The nozzle got grounded into the bed. Any idea what went wrong? I see the bed leveling light coming on but the nozzle just kept going. Frustrated.
Would it make much of a difference if I were to just upgrade to the Capricorn?
Hey! Would that also work the Kobra 2 and/or do you have pointers how to? :)
Would this work for a kobra max?
not to sound stupid but will this set up work with the kobra max???
I have kobra neo, do I have to change the block?
Did you have to do anything with the cooling fan "horn"? When I replicated this it fit great (FYI I found 21.5mm to be the best length for the internal Bowden tube, if anyone wants to know).But my heater block just touches the fan's horn.
Mine fit well. It's close but it fits
I have an Anycubic Kobra Go. It worked well for 9 months and now.. well, it's a hot mess... Quick question.. did you re-use your heat sink and did it work okay or did you upgrade the heat sink as well?
Does this work for the anycubic Kobra neo
Will it work for the kobra 2 pro?
It shifts on my printer, any advice?
Can you do tpu with this?
Can anyone help I have the anycubic Kobra neo make and not sure what size heatbreak I can use bec of the size
I"m going to do this to my Kobra. I noticed that the capricorn tubing is fairly loose in the heatbreack. Is this a problem?
Not an issue at all. Be sure to cut it to the correct length.
This is sick! Have you been able print higher temps? If so how did you tell the printer to go over 260C
I am still using pla with it. Many other projects taking up my spare time at the moment. You would need to edit the firmware if you want to print higher than what the current firmware is set at.
@@lifetech101 what are you settings printing with pla, waiting for my parts to arrive
@@UnspokenTube0 retraction is 2mm at 40mm / sec, 195 printing temp and 97 percent flow.
This is the big question. Cant find an modded firmware or something. Perhaps a resistor could help to manipulate the sensor, but I think this could cause many new problems. I will try to build this thing and test it.
@@adrahamdramatik3753you need to make some changes in the firmware you need always have the 15°C tolerance so i set my max temp to 315°C so i can print with 295°C without any problems im in to make a better Fanduct to work with Allmetall hotend and 5015 fans and a better mount for the proximity sensor
Aliexpress link?
Debating on trying this. I have this printer and have been tempted to just send it back at this point. Takes so long for the filament to come out on an actual print and when it does come out after two or three passes, it barely sticks and is small blobs every inch or so and eventually just rips off the bed. I have used Pronterface to adjust Esteps. Filament came out wonderful for that, but the actual print cycle has been most frustrating. I have had one OK-ish print out of maybe 5 attempts, and the rest have failed. Played with different temps of both the nozzle and bed, speeds, z-offsets. Same issues every time. I could be missing something as I am new though.
Don't...hope you didn't
@@georgeovel6423 No I have not. I have done a few other adjustments and things I have seen like loosening the bed and letting it heat and cool a few times and then tightening it back. I got a few good prints. I think I have draft issues more than anything now so I will get a draft hood or something to try next. I had a couple good calibration blocks and a nice print I got online. And then I tried an articulated unicorn for my daughter and got the big blob of death covering the hot end after babysitting it for over an hour. I went to bed for a couple hours. Woke up to check as it was 50% done and found the blob. Next print warped, I assume because the HVAC was running, or because I left the room and opened the door.
Get an auto level or one that has it built in. Had that same issue and got fucking tired so I spent a little more money and went from the ender 3 to the anycubic vyper and I love it. No bs
@clordphoto G 1:39 ot my anycubic kobra plus last week and it has only had 2 semi failed prints out of about 15 or so. Both were my fault. One was to low nozzle temp other was power outage. Both just had some bad layers but finished printing. Never had a single bed adhesion issue and if you let the prints cool they come off the bed by themselves. Auto bed Leveling built in is the way to go. Just got the stringing issues worked out, just fine tuning after this as I will be using only 1kind of filament for 90% of my builds.
@@ThatOneGuyWithTheEyewhat you do for your stringing?
How would i be able to change firmware and display ui to go over 260 degree though
you need to Change this in your Firmware depends how got u want to go i change mine to 315 C so i can heat up to 300 C (15 C Protection is applied in every firmware)
Any idea if the Kobra Neo could benefit from this same setup (ie is hotend same on Kobra and Kobra Neo)?
I dont own a neo but I googled the kobra neo hotend and looked at the images. It may very well be the same. Google it and see.
I just did this on my Kobra Neo. It's the same process, just a few of the screws are in different places. The old hotend looks identical to the one in this video.
@@jabberwocktechnologies did you do this for the neo as im unsure about the size for the heatbreak part
@@1937Brett Yah, I did it for the Neo. I used a bimetallic heatbrake from 3dmellow. I think the main thing is just to get one that's supposed to fit the CR10. The heater block and nozzle do extend a bit further down too so I had to adjust the position of the levelling sensor. There's already a screw there that lets you adjust that easily. Other than that it just worked.
@@jabberwocktechnologies brilliant thank you for your reply have you had good results? If we could email abit more on the subject would be great do u get alot of PLA blockages or not with the blue tubing
Debating on doing this, ive been having a bunch of issues with my kobra and its really disheatening.
Cruretly im getting this "hotend NTC abnormal" message and despite checking everything i cant for the life of me figure it o ut.
I get the same message... about 2.5 hours into a print. No idea why... there''s no hot end temp change planned at that point.
Odd?!?!?!
How is the stock cooling handling the extra heat, lets says large abs prints
Haven't tried abs yet but pla is printing great. If it is an issue we can try the fan duct print.
@@lifetech101 please post an update with results on printing abs / petg or other high temp stuff
How did you get it to auto level and set the z offset?
You'll have to set the z offset yourself like normal, but the auto leveling is based off of the orange magnetic probe
Use an Allen key to lower the sensor as low as the spanner they send to you after you have placed it on a peace of paper
@@1937Brettexplain more clearly please.
@@PikachuOW2 m.th-cam.com/video/25x84AaiUpQ/w-d-xo.html
@@PikachuOW2 this should help any more help let me know
What size for the Bimetal heat break
The link to it is in the description
Also I have the anycubic Kobra Neo
Just needed to double check
Why do I need this Tube even?
On the upgrade. How to upgrade to later have NO TUBE at all
It helps guide the filament into the heartbreak
What socks are you talking about?
I ton't think this is really necessary
the only real issue with the anycubic hotend is that the PTFE tubi is too short right out of the box and it's not even good PTFE tubing as it is clearly offcenter
what I did was, I simply cut a convenient legth of PTFE tubing, mount the heatbrake in the extruder, stick the PTFE tube inside the heatbrake, push it firmly to ensure it is seated properly
trim the PTFE tube but leave about 0.5mm sticking out the heatbrake
lenght is now about 42mm, stock is 0.5-1mm too short
assemble the hotend except for the nozzle
after everything is assembled, install the nozzle
this process ensures that you have a positive seal between the PTFE tube and the nozzle
after I did this I got significantly better results
start of the print was now flawless, first layer printed better, overall results appear to be better as well
overall it is a pretty good printer once you set it up correctly
but this tiny detail is so annoying, all they had to do was measure twice and cut once and they would have much less issues with their product
HEADS UP FOLKS! This does not work now; if it ever did. Amazon parts speced are wrong sized. That might mean Anycubic changed decently, but lack of showing work done points to a shoddy how-to clickbait post.
Lol. Works fine. Many of us ha e done it.
@@lifetech101I'm s re you did. What, all 51 of yo r subscribers did this won erful magical h ck? A hack that the engine rs at Anycubic laughed at? That one?
its still works on ANYCUBIC KOBRA (STANDARD)