ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- I show you the difference between running sensored vs sensorless with a Hobbywing Max4 ESC. To buy the Hobbywing, click here: amzn.to/3vhGy6Q The Castle motor is here: amzn.to/3viphe2 Join our forum at www.electrifiedboost.com and consider supporting my efforts on patreon: / alexltdlx
The sensor reduces low speed cogging. It's really useful in rc rock crawlers when you are doing low speed precision driving.
Yet you see Holmes run a 1400 revolver sensorless with the same low speed control with no cogging with a Copperhead 10.
You say the difference is startup but didn't let the people know that for turbo timing and boost timing advance it needs to be sensored . Keep up the good work ,I try to make constructive criticism.i am looking forward to your results I have a 6 cyl supra I wanna boost . Please get some data with advanced timing applied
A very timely discussion on sensorship.
Thank you
My man! Back at it again!!! I forgot to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year! Thank you for your contributions sir.
Thanks Jeffrey. Hope you and yours had a wonderful Christmas and you have a happy New Year!
Nice I’m digging your test station
Just Subbed good stuff keep doing what you are doing man.
Thank you Nick!
No cussing so the video will remain uncensored
UNTIL...the powers that be feel this is a threat. Then, it'll be gone!
lol
Nice! Thanks a lot for the demo :D
Great demonstration, thanks! :)
You should test the current draw with sensored vs sensorless with heavy load, on the "inverter world" the sensored can accomplish the same power a sensorless unit with way less current. Since it can efficient "fire" the stators, with some inverters we can even overclock some eletric motors, to spin faster what they are designed, only with sensored of course... We use encoder with at least 2048PPR(Pulse per revolution) i dunno the resolution of the sensored unit you have, would be nice to know
I had never heard of that. I'll test that in the next video. I'm building a massive battery box to minimize voltage drop and I'll retest. Thanks.
would have really helped if you somehow would tried to stall/change speed of the motor sensored vs sensorless , which would explain the main reason on having sensored motors.
The main reason for sensors is when the back EMF is too low or nonexistent and can't be read by the ESC. Startup is the #1 scenario for justifying sensors, hands-down. Changes in speed once the motor's spinning over a couple of hundred rpm aren't a problem. In fact, over a few thousand rpm, most ESCs no longer use sensors, simply back EMF. Changing speeds (or simply trying to stall a motor - which on an almost 20 hp motor can be quite dangerous) isn't a good indicator of sensored vs sensorless operation.
Finally you post something I can understand... lol
Lol. I think I've said this before - don't feel bad, I'm learning "on the job" here in a lot of cases. I do enjoy it immensely though. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing.
The sensor really controls it well! BTW What is your step up ratio? It's really looking good!
14 tooth motor pulley, 18 tooth impeller pulley. 0.78:1 (i.e. multiply motor speed by 0.78 to get impeller speed).
Thank you, very usefull information!
Thank you for the excellent demonstration, I have one question, where did you get the toothed belt drive belt and wheels from please?
I believe I got them from McMaster-Carr, iirc.
Thank you for your reply I shall check them out
Friend, I bought a hobbywing sensored 10bl120a g2 sensored esc, do you use any 540 sensored motor on it? I'm wanting a surpass 13.5 T sensored? Does the motor being sensored work on it? I already have 2 esc 10bl120a g1 hobbywing, I didn't quite understand the issue of changing to g2!
I don't think anyone will ever accuse you of having low production quality!
Horry wing have 70125 sensor motor look like more powerful . Will you consider this model ?
That motor, despite being larger and heavier, is actually less powerful - at least going by ratings alone. It no doubt makes more torque, but a less rpm - and you need both torque and rpm to make power. It's not a bad motor by any means, it's just not as well suited to the job.
Thank you ❤
FWIW you can probably make that "proprietary" adapter yourself for like $3.
Yeah, but what kind of connector are they using (the round one)? And considering they sell the adapter for $4.99, it's kind of tough to justify the time invested. As always, I appreciate you watching, commenting and subscribing.
@@AlexLTDLX Took way more digging than I expected, but I THINK it's an Amphenol 6 pin connector. Not certain though. Many similar designs. They actually did pick one that's hard to find. For $5 though, definitely not worth making your own.
Scratch that the Amphenol is probably way too large. I'm certain it's a readily available connector. Probably for some sort of radio connector. Just can't find it.
I appreciate you trying to find it. I didn't even look, to be honest. Just not worth the effort, and I've never seen a connector like it. The closest thing is a Lemo connector (we use those a lot on equipment at work), but Lemos are a tiny bit bigger, far better made and cost an obscene amount of money: tinyurl.com/bdfw46r8 Plus the layout is a little different. Here's the corporate website: www.lemo.com/en
@@AlexLTDLX Honestly, since you have a pigtail before the connector anyways, would make way more sense to just cut off their connector and put the non-proprietary connector on hahaha. Didn't even think of it until now.
You can hear the difference too, with bigger motors it is way more perceptive
How does it support 230A? The wire is not even the right gauge
Do you have a link to the sensor wire adapter
Nice!
Thanks!
I hear the difference in the starting, sensor prevents overrun
Check out the APD 200F3X, 200A 14S ESC for $189 and it's made in Australia. EDIT: The price has apparently gone up they are $209 now, still a bargain though.
it's a 20k rpm motor, but with the sensor it gets 35k rpm, so the sensor increases the final speed too?
No. It's a 45,000-50,000 rpm motor.
Just use a good speed controller that allows pole setting with 32-bit processing ,pwm adjustment along with fuzzy logic and your motor will love you for it.. .
That sounds great. Now who makes such a thing (that actually works like it should - VESC certainly doesn't at high eRPM), where can I buy it and can it handle at least 50 volts and 300 amps? I'd actually love to see an affordable answer to my awesome 800 amp, 63 volt MGM ESC that's powering the Sledgehammer unit. I'm all ears, seriously.
@@AlexLTDLX Have you tried the new 6.0 firmware and tool that just came out? They just fixed a lot of bugs and have a new silent HFI mode.
You're boutta have swaths of RC hobbyists in your comment section cuz of the hw/castle combo
Lol - I'm noticing that... I want to really hammer this combo with some serious batteries for much less voltage drop.
NICE DRILLED ROTOR
Is the Forum down? I can't reach it.
It's not down, but there's a problem with the security settings. I can get to it, but I've got it whitelisted. We're working on it.
@@AlexLTDLX Thanks!
That plug might be a Julet plug.
That does look very close. I've never heard of those before (I was saying the closest was a Lemo, but it's obviously not). Great eye! Thanks!
@@AlexLTDLX Another type might be HiGo, an older version. Julet plugs are mostly used on e-bikes. Good content. 👍
when hands move as if they are lips, lol
💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
do you have any motors you arent trying ypu wanna sell
lol @ "this whole video should be censored"
your hands give me anxiety lol
Get a rc and put that setup to use lol
I started following this channel because of a thorough LED headlight review...
I had no idea then, that it would crossover into my other hobbies &.even more thorough testing...
Glad I stuck around.
I'm glad you stuck around too. Every view comes a little closer to paying for this mess. And I'm still MILES away from that. Thanks!
definitely can see the difference!
At least in the RC car world even a sensored setup will only run sensored at very low RPM. They switch to unsensored mode once they get above that startup RPM. Because of this unless you actually need that really fine granularity at startup there's no advantage to a sensored setup.
Yes, I said that in the video. The other benefit (also in the video) is the elimination of start up current spikes. I've had two ESCs die from that. And they were expensive ones... almost $3,000 worth of ESCs... I have videos on them.
@@AlexLTDLX gotcha. Yeah I didn't see it specifically mentioned that it switched over to sensorless in the video but I must have missed it.
I don't think current spikes will be an issue with this ESC. I would imagine you're going to get a lot less current spike starting up that blower than you would starting a 40 lb RC car moving from a dead standstill. It's one nice thing about the RC ESCs. They're extremely robust.
Unfortunately, those current spikes are very real - here's a $1,700 APD ESC failing less than a second after startup (and almost burning down my house and making a 4" diameter puddle of molten aluminum under the car): th-cam.com/video/_n6hDRsMZd8/w-d-xo.html
@@AlexLTDLX I wonder if it's from going from zero to 100%, so quickly. The hobbywing ESCs have what's known as punch control and by default it's set somewhere in the middle so it won't allow itself to go from 0 to 100% too quickly. In RC this is to prevent destroying parts on the car but in your application it may very well prevent a huge current spike as well. Maybe not though just spitballing.