Loctite and permatex also make concoctions specific for these types of applications called sleeve retainer. I believe it's a more permanent bond than the regular old thread locker. It definitely works better. I've used it in applications where say a bearing is supposed to be press fit into a bore but it's able to slide in and out due to parts mismatching. It has worked really well for me.
The green 609 sleeve retainer is a miracle in a bottle. It’s the perfect match for worn out bores and keyways. Locks everything solid til you hit it with a torch to break the bond.
@@gregholloway2656metal on metal usually, outer bearing races to axle tubes and sloppy fits that are no longer interference. Some say sloppy ar barrels in loose uppers for accurizing, I don't know.
Had similar issues back in the day with our racing lawnmowers. We ended up tapping the shaft and installing threaded set screws. But some guys used jb weld… or locktite like you did. Some even welded all holes and ended up doing some hand grinding and filling. Great job bud, I have really been enjoying these videos.
I respectfully disagree with your diagnosis, and believe the reassembled motor will continue to leak. The caise of the oil leak was the jiggly crankcase seen in the animation. When a crankcase becomes jelly like it will leak oil until it hardens.
@@robotcantina8957 Actually I have encountered a crank case in aluminium alloy that was soft and pliable in a 1936 Terrot 100 MTK (the ancestor of the moped).
I absolutely loved this video. It's great to see your process of tracking down the issue. And to anyone that says that animation is not up to par then let them try it!
Holly cow! When did 154k subscribers show up? I remember when only a couple of people commented on the miata vids. Thats great. Another year and you will be bigger than Mr.Beast.
This channel was mentioned in the comments section of several other TH-camrs recently. Aging Wheels, the Car Care Nut, and Sarah n Tuned. Possibly even the Car Wizard, but I'm not positive about that one. So more "word of mouth" than the YT algorithm.
The Pentastar V6 PCV system also vents thru the the right side exhaust cam, thru a separator that looks like a squirrel cage fan. They blow headgaskets because the oil cooler starts leaking (coolant) and grandma thinks she can drive 10 miles overheating. Great vid, Jimbo.
The pentastar is a absolute desighned failure by Chrysler they literally built the most finicky maintenance absolutely required engine they could and then put it in everything knowing it was gonna go pop just outside of warranty their engineers are on another level of screw the consumer 😂
@@79huddy I'm surprised a little. The previous V6 engine created by Chrysler, I believe was the SOHO 3.5L V6. That was a very reliable engine in my experience.
Also feel like I'm learning a lot, might be random knowledge I'll never use but I spend most of the video seeing something new to me. The editing is fantastic too, nothing ever feels too drawn out!
It's hard to overestimate how informative this video is; none of us might be doing the same sorts of projects, but how many of us DIDN'T know this stuff before, and now do?????
This channel is so under appreciated. It's one of the only channels I bother supporting on patreon because it's so informative and wholesome. Please never stop making videos like this.
I can personally attest: those 80's german solar ovens people used to drive around will bake metal parts to a toasty hand-burning number of degrees Fahrenheit.
Damnnnn ... i can't believe i was right ... i had a feeling that the holes im the Cam would somehow allow gasses past it , i said it in the last video on this and had people questioning me, lol .. anyways peace and love brotha, keep it rad, stay safe, and build on..l8r famz and keep having fun
Awesome video this week, I thoroughly enjoyed it! In trying to discover your issue, you took us, the viewers, along with you to discover what and why your oil leak was happening and I can't speak for everyone but I know I learned something. Thank you again!
Great detective work, as usual. Awesome animation and layering. Bubblegum crank case is amusing and definitely better than any film strip I used to get.
I would have never guessed that it was the cam. Don't aftermarket cams have the relief already removed? Idk. Anyway can't wait for more Renault content! Have a great time reassembling the engine @RobotCantina
Was this one of those the comments helped brainstorm the issue moments? Lots of mentions of the now open shaft hole in the last update's comments! Very cool breakdown of the issue though, helped follow how that hole in cam most thought was likely responsible into how it is *actually* causing the issue. I'd never guessed the hollowcam would be directly connected to the breather. Great video!
Hey jimbo, great video. After you showed the holes being exposed on the cam, I immediately suspected that. Hopefully you get it resolved and get new test results soon
Videos like this are why I love your channel Jimbo. A thorough investigation followed by an easy to understand explanation and finally a simple solution. Shop class with Jimbo for the win!
You saved me troubles my my 670 in the future. I've been wanting to lower the idle myself. You gave me the information needed. The only thing is I'll turn a shaft to be a pressed fit and problem solved.
The Volkswagen Jetta and Bora (in the station wagon variant) are actually my 2 favourite cars! Also: this might be your best episode pacing wise, it was sooooo good, easy to follow/engaging, fun and actually made me use whats inbetween my ears!
I saw something coming when you said the oil pump went straight to the open cam shaft. I didn't expect the hole to be aimed straight into PCV system though. The crank case vent is a very cleaver design.
@ 15:50 I'm upset that this video wasn't 3 hours long and didn't include a full musical number. My captain crunch has been made soggy, and my day ruined.
Wow Jimbo, I am constantly amazed at how much work you put into each video episode! Making that animation of the rotating engine assembly alone had to take quite a bit of time, that and the random gnome and dinosaur appearances. That is a very tricky oiling system built into the camshaft, it certainty fooled me. I wonder if the original modification or, the oil leak fix will/has starved something of oil? I realize it's all part of the D&D (Dittle and Develope) process so, time will tell. Thanks for all the effort you put into these videos, being a retired engineer/geek, I fully enjoy and can relate!
Hopefully we didn't change anything with our modification. Keep in mind, the opposite side of the cam gets lubricated by the four notches in the block that allow splash lubrication to reach the part of the cam that installs in the block.
Nice find and solution. One thing, although a bit of crankcase ventilation is due to piston ring blow by, the majority is due to the v-twin layout on this engine. The pistons do not exactly oppose each other in motion like they might in an I4 engine for example. So the crankcase volume changes quite a bit, and with that a lot of air is moving in and out. Or trying to, at least.
I love forensics with systems and engines. It's amazing how certain seemingly nonrelated items can totally mess things up. Reminds me of an old Air Crash Investigation once about a plane (I believe MD 80) that crashed on takeoff because the pilots didn't set the flaps. It did have a flaps warning system on it, but it was routed through the same relay as another, less critical system. When maintenance turned off the light for the non-critical system by removing the relay temporarily (no replacement relay available to them at the time), they also unknowingly disabled the flaps warning system. The pilots blazed through the checklist without much attention, and forgot to set the flaps. Just glad the cam/oil fiasco was not deadly!
wOW i really wasn't expecting that t be the cause of the oil problem ! You did a great job explaining the problem ! It's a great thing as well that it didn't have the plastic gear on the camshaft ! It's qute a problem on a lot of the newer B&S engines besides trying to get parts for a lot of engines. I''ll look forward to next weeks video. Thanks for your time and effort to make your videos
Loctite is great stuff. I was thinking there might be some aftermarket camshafts that were going into the project. However it would have been a major curveball for your baseline data. Great video, happy to see the gnomes return😀
This is just general good info for anyone using one of these Predator motors. From what I've seen, these motors are a good value, and built with decent quality.
I was wondering if the missing rod inside the crankshaft might cause issues, but I was thinking of issues with the crankshaft being weakened due to a large amount of metal being removed. Did not expect this!
I kind of thought that the cam was part of the problem, but I thought the holes in the cam lobes was the culprit. Cool diagnosis and I can’t wait to see the outcome. 👍🏼
Went back and looked at the previous video and wonder if it might have been simpler to remove the spring and weld the bracket to the pulley with the bracket set to non-release. But this is hindsight. I enjoy your ability to take it all in stride, knowing that an internal combustion engine is a system, and when you remove one part it can affect others. The crankcase blow-by system is actually kind of cool, letting the vapors through and out while slinging off any oil. This should work, looking forward to more shenanigans!
In a way you were lucky that the hollowed out camshaft did not bleed off so much oil pressure that the rest of the engine had insufficient lubrication.
Who'da thunk pulling that decompression pin out would have resulted in an engine tear-down and the use of your neighbors solar powered oven?!? Appreciate the in-depth analysis of the oil puking crankcase ventilation system. Very interesting! This is fun!
You know I usually watch your videos every Sunday morning eating breakfast, typically Captain Crunch with Berries, the one Sunday I had to get up early and go do something and not watch it with my breakfast is of course the video you reference my cereal of choice 😢
I had a funny feeling that the camshaft modification may have caused your problem while watching your last video however, I didn’t wanna make an assumption as I could not see the internal parts of the engine to see how the PCV system function. The important part is that you figured it out.
My guesses were wrong. While you were explaining the compression relief, I thought that the newly opened holes were going to be slinging extra oil into the crankcase ventilation system. I never would have suspected the oil flowing the way it did to the end of the camshaft. That would have been a head-scratcher for a while for me.
6:55 It would have taken entirely too many takes. Id have just called it the shaft and balls and laughed too hard, ruining everything 😂 Your control and maturity is unmatched, Jimbo. Unlike mine.
When you actually think about it it is pretty clever...........The oil will not get out of the went because it is trown away by centrifugal force Great video, about year ago I would pay to watch this because there is not much pictures showing this engine and how it works.
My gut told me that the hollow shaft was going to cause problems but I couldn't put my finger on how. Thanks for the detailed explanation! Great episode!
the portal gnomes got me. as always, a+ content. also I want to see jetta shenanigans. the sketchest of aliexpress/instascam mods on a mk4 1.8t type stuff.
An easy fir would be to relocate the crankcase breather to the head opposing valve cover from the oil fill. Little more involved would be a crankcase oil catch can. Just have the drain re-enter the crankcase. Love the videos. A lotus 7 powered by a boosted predator would be awsome fun.
Oh boy.... "It would take a torch, and a hammer!" *Installs loctite cam in a machine that runs on explosions* Here's to hoping buddy! I have my doubts but I wish you well and may you prove us doubters wrong!
The quickest and simplest way to tell if you have a blown head gasket is to remove the oil filler cap. And if water cooled the radiator cap. If there's puffing of gasses coming out then the head gasket is blown. On a V twin removing the rocker cover opposite the oil filler cap cam tell you which head is leaking.
Jimbo your videos are never long enough. I love the content and the just because projects . Not everyone needs a turbo charged LS . While they are fun yours are far more interesting just because project’s. Not to mention your comical presentation sany music and informative graphics. I have watched all your videos. Just one question why did you move to Kansas from Michigan. I live just out side on London Ontario so not too far back then. Take care have fun enjoy what you do as I love your work. Big fan , Paul
Hi Paul, I ended up moving to Kansas because my brother moved here a year before. We only get snow one day a year which is nice, but I the summer heat is something I have to get used to.
Ah, had you just removed the springs (of the compression relief mechanism) and left the rest be as it was, we'd never see this entertaining and educational episode.
I would have assumed head gasket like I did in the last episode. I didn't expect you to turn the cam into an oil geyser lol. Happy Sunday everyone and stay safe! We are recovering from hurricane Helene here and going to get slapped with another hurricane this week 😅
What a fascinating discovery Jimbo! I don't think it would have occurred to me either when you removed the ball and the rod from the cam! But then, with hindsight, it was obvious that the shaft for the decompression was also a great oil restrictor! Especially since the ventilation is arranged as it is! We all learn something every day! 😉
Another thing that will help with the oil leak is ported heads. That causes the air/fuel to enter and exit more easily reducing strain and keeping the oil happy... :)
2:50... failing to hold the throttle open is also a good way of establishing VE at idle... for those that are say, attempting to code an EFI ECU from scratch... hell, i throw a bike in gear then run it on a treadmill type affair and get VE for the whole RPM/throttle range. also, the reading in kg or bar is also the compression ratio.
It seemed like for a moment there I had been warped to Eric's channel and he was working on a lawn mower engine, breaking it down, looking at the gaskets and heads but he didn't do the scientific test on the pistons with the specialized tool he has for it. I broke a bolt that had been lock(ed) tight, lock tighted once. I can validate it sticks. I went back to my Maypo not CC. Very interesting video as always, I liked the video modification, you may have a fall back career. :)
Did you examine the big end rod bearings for wear ? Also having the engine apart could have been a good time to switch camshafts and upgrade the walve springs with the advice from Greg (red beard) not for mad power but a better bottom end for moving the extra weight of a car instead of a lawnmower. Great work again 👍🇬🇧🇺🇲
The only thing I'm worried about is if the oil pressure on the cam also lubricates the the lifters as well. for example if you need to drill an oil gallery from the gear side to where the ball bearings where to drip oil onto the lifters.
I have a 724cc briggs I was going to remove the compression relief on, I'm glad I watched this because I looked into it and briggs pcv is vented the SAME WAY. (Also I think this is a good time for an aftermarket cam in the 670 ;) )
Currently working on a conversion, Fiat Palio. Small front wheel drive light cheap car. Installing a Yanmar 3TNE78A. I think it will be interesting to see fuel consumption compared to your Kubota projects as this yanmar is direct injection
I assume the shaft will hold but if it doesn't wouldn't' a threaded restrictor fix the issue? Like a set screw with a hole through it to let some oil through? Or even a oil galley plug from a larger engine with a little hole in it. We typically use loctite retaining compound for sleeves and whatever else, at our shop.
Loctite and permatex also make concoctions specific for these types of applications called sleeve retainer. I believe it's a more permanent bond than the regular old thread locker. It definitely works better. I've used it in applications where say a bearing is supposed to be press fit into a bore but it's able to slide in and out due to parts mismatching. It has worked really well for me.
Isn’t that stuff typically green in colour? I’m thinking of the goop that holds seals in their covers.
The green 609 sleeve retainer is a miracle in a bottle. It’s the perfect match for worn out bores and keyways. Locks everything solid til you hit it with a torch to break the bond.
@@gregholloway2656metal on metal usually, outer bearing races to axle tubes and sloppy fits that are no longer interference. Some say sloppy ar barrels in loose uppers for accurizing, I don't know.
@@RichieRichOverdrive609, 620, 640, 660, 680. I keep 620 for the higher temp applications.
603 (also green) is also awesome. It is a bit more viscous than 609.
Had similar issues back in the day with our racing lawnmowers. We ended up tapping the shaft and installing threaded set screws. But some guys used jb weld… or locktite like you did. Some even welded all holes and ended up doing some hand grinding and filling. Great job bud, I have really been enjoying these videos.
My thoughts were to just weld things shut but I think I like your idea better by adding bolts
Clever system, really. The spinning cam will centrifuge any entrained oil out of the breather system .
Thanks for another excellent video. ❤
I respectfully disagree with your diagnosis, and believe the reassembled motor will continue to leak. The caise of the oil leak was the jiggly crankcase seen in the animation. When a crankcase becomes jelly like it will leak oil until it hardens.
Indeed, the rubbery crankcase is alarming. hopefully it will be OK.
@@robotcantina8957 Actually I have encountered a crank case in aluminium alloy that was soft and pliable in a 1936 Terrot 100 MTK (the ancestor of the moped).
you had me in the first half XD
😅
😮🙀
I had my fingers crossed that we were going to hear about a performance cam and other internals getting ordered since the engine was apart lol.
When you got the good compression readings on both cylinders I thought straight away this is going to be interesting.
I absolutely loved this video. It's great to see your process of tracking down the issue. And to anyone that says that animation is not up to par then let them try it!
Makes sense the cam hole was the issue. It really was the only modification prior to the enging spewing oil.
Great video!
Uh oh, it looks like the gnome infestation is back. Better get another cat!
He already has to move away in fear of getting gnomed
Yep, I think Jimbo uses the gnomes as a metaphor for something that has yet to go wrong! Hmmmm 🤔
gnomes gnomes gnomes gnomes gnomes gnomes gnomes
I thought he had them on the payroll before, or at least bribed them. It's when there's some labor dispute that things can get hairy.
The gnomes found a Haitian cook book. Cats are no longer effective.
Holly cow! When did 154k subscribers show up? I remember when only a couple of people commented on the miata vids. Thats great. Another year and you will be bigger than Mr.Beast.
YT counter throttling must be offline today.
This channel was mentioned in the comments section of several other TH-camrs recently. Aging Wheels, the Car Care Nut, and Sarah n Tuned. Possibly even the Car Wizard, but I'm not positive about that one. So more "word of mouth" than the YT algorithm.
@@Noah_E Nice! nothing wrong with that! We need more Bill Nye and less Bill Gates. You know what I mean.
I feel attacked. I was eating a bowl of captain crunch.
...when suddenly
The Pentastar V6 PCV system also vents thru the the right side exhaust cam, thru a separator that looks like a squirrel cage fan. They blow headgaskets because the oil cooler starts leaking (coolant) and grandma thinks she can drive 10 miles overheating.
Great vid, Jimbo.
I did not know that about the pentastar V6 certainly interesting to learn, thank you for sharing.
The pentastar is a absolute desighned failure by Chrysler they literally built the most finicky maintenance absolutely required engine they could and then put it in everything knowing it was gonna go pop just outside of warranty their engineers are on another level of screw the consumer 😂
@@79huddy not unusual, just at the bleeding edge of a trend
@@79huddy I'm surprised a little. The previous V6 engine created by Chrysler, I believe was the SOHO 3.5L V6. That was a very reliable engine in my experience.
Your engine animation was actually really neat and I liked the look of it. Definitely worth putting down my captin crunch for.
Video too long? Too short if anything Jimbo, your videos always seem to go so quick because theyre entertaining.
@@AdmissionGaming agreed 👍
Also feel like I'm learning a lot, might be random knowledge I'll never use but I spend most of the video seeing something new to me. The editing is fantastic too, nothing ever feels too drawn out!
Agreed
and he cuts almost everything except the driving, and he is working on cutting that out also.
It's hard to overestimate how informative this video is; none of us might be doing the same sorts of projects, but how many of us DIDN'T know this stuff before, and now do?????
This channel is so under appreciated.
It's one of the only channels I bother supporting on patreon because it's so informative and wholesome. Please never stop making videos like this.
I'm always fascinated by the chasm between the engineering concepts of one engine and another. Thanks for the breakdown, Jimbo!
I can personally attest: those 80's german solar ovens people used to drive around will bake metal parts to a toasty hand-burning number of degrees Fahrenheit.
Dungarees Fahrfigneugen.
You don't get paid enough, full stop.
Thank you, you lift my spirits.
Interesting find. I noticed the cool cooling fan blade spacing to avoid a tone. It amazing how designs have evolved over the years.
Damnnnn ... i can't believe i was right ... i had a feeling that the holes im the Cam would somehow allow gasses past it , i said it in the last video on this and had people questioning me, lol .. anyways peace and love brotha, keep it rad, stay safe, and build on..l8r famz and keep having fun
Sunday morning cartoons with Jimbo!
Awesome video this week, I thoroughly enjoyed it! In trying to discover your issue, you took us, the viewers, along with you to discover what and why your oil leak was happening and I can't speak for everyone but I know I learned something. Thank you again!
Gotta love that "Oh...well, I appear to have done this to myself" moment
Great detective work, as usual. Awesome animation and layering. Bubblegum crank case is amusing and definitely better than any film strip I used to get.
I really appreciate how well you treat us viewers. Even with not much happening you make it fun.
I would have never guessed that it was the cam. Don't aftermarket cams have the relief already removed? Idk. Anyway can't wait for more Renault content! Have a great time reassembling the engine @RobotCantina
They sell a regrind with the stock cam modified for it.
I was going to assume they were solid.
Was this one of those the comments helped brainstorm the issue moments? Lots of mentions of the now open shaft hole in the last update's comments! Very cool breakdown of the issue though, helped follow how that hole in cam most thought was likely responsible into how it is *actually* causing the issue. I'd never guessed the hollowcam would be directly connected to the breather. Great video!
Hey jimbo, great video. After you showed the holes being exposed on the cam, I immediately suspected that. Hopefully you get it resolved and get new test results soon
Videos like this are why I love your channel Jimbo. A thorough investigation followed by an easy to understand explanation and finally a simple solution.
Shop class with Jimbo for the win!
You saved me troubles my my 670 in the future. I've been wanting to lower the idle myself. You gave me the information needed. The only thing is I'll turn a shaft to be a pressed fit and problem solved.
The Volkswagen Jetta and Bora (in the station wagon variant) are actually my 2 favourite cars!
Also: this might be your best episode pacing wise, it was sooooo good, easy to follow/engaging, fun and actually made me use whats inbetween my ears!
I saw something coming when you said the oil pump went straight to the open cam shaft. I didn't expect the hole to be aimed straight into PCV system though. The crank case vent is a very cleaver design.
@ 15:50 I'm upset that this video wasn't 3 hours long and didn't include a full musical number. My captain crunch has been made soggy, and my day ruined.
I kind of figured that was the case when you pulled the pin. I'm glad you got it figured out though.I love this project.
Excellent episode. Really shows what can happen when a minor modification causes unforeseen
consequences.
Wow Jimbo, I am constantly amazed at how much work you put into each video episode! Making that animation of the rotating engine assembly alone had to take quite a bit of time, that and the random gnome and dinosaur appearances.
That is a very tricky oiling system built into the camshaft, it certainty fooled me. I wonder if the original modification or, the oil leak fix will/has starved something of oil? I realize it's all part of the D&D (Dittle and Develope) process so, time will tell.
Thanks for all the effort you put into these videos, being a retired engineer/geek, I fully enjoy and can relate!
Hopefully we didn't change anything with our modification.
Keep in mind, the opposite side of the cam gets lubricated by the four notches in the block that allow splash lubrication to reach the part of the cam that installs in the block.
Nice find and solution. One thing, although a bit of crankcase ventilation is due to piston ring blow by, the majority is due to the v-twin layout on this engine. The pistons do not exactly oppose each other in motion like they might in an I4 engine for example. So the crankcase volume changes quite a bit, and with that a lot of air is moving in and out. Or trying to, at least.
I love forensics with systems and engines. It's amazing how certain seemingly nonrelated items can totally mess things up. Reminds me of an old Air Crash Investigation once about a plane (I believe MD 80) that crashed on takeoff because the pilots didn't set the flaps. It did have a flaps warning system on it, but it was routed through the same relay as another, less critical system. When maintenance turned off the light for the non-critical system by removing the relay temporarily (no replacement relay available to them at the time), they also unknowingly disabled the flaps warning system. The pilots blazed through the checklist without much attention, and forgot to set the flaps. Just glad the cam/oil fiasco was not deadly!
Video was packed with information, so it was absolutely not too long!
wOW i really wasn't expecting that t be the cause of the oil problem ! You did a great job explaining the problem ! It's a great thing as well that it didn't have the plastic gear on the camshaft ! It's qute a problem on a lot of the newer B&S engines besides trying to get parts for a lot of engines. I''ll look forward to next weeks video. Thanks for your time and effort to make your videos
This project gets even better. Excellent. 😊👍
Loctite is great stuff. I was thinking there might be some aftermarket camshafts that were going into the project. However it would have been a major curveball for your baseline data. Great video, happy to see the gnomes return😀
That's some great info I didn't know you can use Red lock tight inside of an engine I thought for sure you'd be doing some welding 😎👍👍🇨🇦
This is just general good info for anyone using one of these Predator motors. From what I've seen, these motors are a good value, and built with decent quality.
I was wondering if the missing rod inside the crankshaft might cause issues, but I was thinking of issues with the crankshaft being weakened due to a large amount of metal being removed. Did not expect this!
I kind of thought that the cam was part of the problem, but I thought the holes in the cam lobes was the culprit. Cool diagnosis and I can’t wait to see the outcome. 👍🏼
Went back and looked at the previous video and wonder if it might have been simpler to remove the spring and weld the bracket to the pulley with the bracket set to non-release. But this is hindsight. I enjoy your ability to take it all in stride, knowing that an internal combustion engine is a system, and when you remove one part it can affect others. The crankcase blow-by system is actually kind of cool, letting the vapors through and out while slinging off any oil. This should work, looking forward to more shenanigans!
In a way you were lucky that the hollowed out camshaft did not bleed off so much oil pressure that the rest of the engine had insufficient lubrication.
Who'da thunk pulling that decompression pin out would have resulted in an engine tear-down and the use of your neighbors solar powered oven?!?
Appreciate the in-depth analysis of the oil puking crankcase ventilation system. Very interesting! This is fun!
I'm glad you found the issue. Looking forward to the next episode.
6:57
Thank You for the incredible breakdown of your solution. Love these videos.
Hole in one for Billybob, Whoop Whoop!!. As mentioned in last 670cc video comments section.
What did i win Jimbo?.
Keep up the good work Mr 😎
You know I usually watch your videos every Sunday morning eating breakfast, typically Captain Crunch with Berries, the one Sunday I had to get up early and go do something and not watch it with my breakfast is of course the video you reference my cereal of choice 😢
I had a funny feeling that the camshaft modification may have caused your problem while watching your last video however, I didn’t wanna make an assumption as I could not see the internal parts of the engine to see how the PCV system function. The important part is that you figured it out.
The pushrods gallery drains can also be matched and opened a bit further from stock to equalize the crankcase pressure
Wow….great job figuring out the oil leak.
A very nice forensic investigation there Jimbo, thanks for sharing 🙂
Good one, Jimbo! Love the garden nome and the cartoon character! 😄
As always, incredible video.
Thank you.
My guesses were wrong. While you were explaining the compression relief, I thought that the newly opened holes were going to be slinging extra oil into the crankcase ventilation system. I never would have suspected the oil flowing the way it did to the end of the camshaft. That would have been a head-scratcher for a while for me.
Incredible explanation and animation!!
6:55
It would have taken entirely too many takes. Id have just called it the shaft and balls and laughed too hard, ruining everything 😂
Your control and maturity is unmatched, Jimbo. Unlike mine.
Very interesting. Learned something today. It is not a total waste hehe. Have a blessed week.
When you actually think about it it is pretty clever...........The oil will not get out of the went because it is trown away by centrifugal force
Great video, about year ago I would pay to watch this because there is not much pictures showing this engine and how it works.
My gut told me that the hollow shaft was going to cause problems but I couldn't put my finger on how. Thanks for the detailed explanation! Great episode!
Thanks so much!. The good news is, now I know the consequences of the modification.
I would feel better with some sort of set screw or dowel pin to keep it in there.
🍟
Awesome catch. I would suggest you pop for two Total Seal gapless top rings, you will have near zero blow by.
the portal gnomes got me.
as always, a+ content.
also I want to see jetta shenanigans. the sketchest of aliexpress/instascam mods on a mk4 1.8t type stuff.
I DID, in fact have some Cap’n Crunch! A perfect pairing with your video on a Sunday morning.
Good to see Robot Cantina found a sponsor!
I love the loctite idea, I would have definetly used welding or tapped bolts in the holes just because I'm afraid of these kinds of tricks
Great find Jimbo. Also good to see the gnomes are back. Hopefully they didn't take anything.
An easy fir would be to relocate the crankcase breather to the head opposing valve cover from the oil fill. Little more involved would be a crankcase oil catch can. Just have the drain re-enter the crankcase. Love the videos. A lotus 7 powered by a boosted predator would be awsome fun.
Oh boy....
"It would take a torch, and a hammer!"
*Installs loctite cam in a machine that runs on explosions*
Here's to hoping buddy! I have my doubts but I wish you well and may you prove us doubters wrong!
Ahye, matey! It's Cap'N Crunch... CAP'N!!! No bloody captains here.
The quickest and simplest way to tell if you have a blown head gasket is to remove the oil filler cap.
And if water cooled the radiator cap.
If there's puffing of gasses coming out then the head gasket is blown.
On a V twin removing the rocker cover opposite the oil filler cap cam tell you which head is leaking.
That is an interesting investigation and fix. Good luck with the gnomes!
Jimbo your videos are never long enough. I love the content and the just because projects . Not everyone needs a turbo charged LS . While they are fun yours are far more interesting just because project’s. Not to mention your comical presentation sany music and informative graphics. I have watched all your videos. Just one question why did you move to Kansas from
Michigan. I live just out side on London Ontario so not too far back then. Take care have fun enjoy what you do as I love your work. Big fan , Paul
Hi Paul, I ended up moving to Kansas because my brother moved here a year before. We only get snow one day a year which is nice, but I the summer heat is something I have to get used to.
"We'd like to thank today's sponsor: Captain Crunch."
Great video i love in depth analysis
Ah, had you just removed the springs (of the compression relief mechanism) and left the rest be as it was, we'd never see this entertaining and educational episode.
I would have assumed head gasket like I did in the last episode. I didn't expect you to turn the cam into an oil geyser lol. Happy Sunday everyone and stay safe! We are recovering from hurricane Helene here and going to get slapped with another hurricane this week 😅
When I watched the last video watching you gut the cam I kinda wondered if that wouldn't come back to bit you
Great video as always
What a fascinating discovery Jimbo! I don't think it would have occurred to me either when you removed the ball and the rod from the cam! But then, with hindsight, it was obvious that the shaft for the decompression was also a great oil restrictor! Especially since the ventilation is arranged as it is! We all learn something every day! 😉
You and me both!
@@robotcantina8957 😏🤣🤣🤣👌
The animation was great! So interesting.
Another thing that will help with the oil leak is ported heads. That causes the air/fuel to enter and exit more easily reducing strain and keeping the oil happy... :)
2:50...
failing to hold the throttle open is also a good way of establishing VE at idle... for those that are say, attempting to code an EFI ECU from scratch...
hell, i throw a bike in gear then run it on a treadmill type affair and get VE for the whole RPM/throttle range.
also, the reading in kg or bar is also the compression ratio.
The acetone fumes were making me see random gnomes going in and out of other dimensions!🤪
It seemed like for a moment there I had been warped to Eric's channel and he was working on a lawn mower engine, breaking it down, looking at the gaskets and heads but he didn't do the scientific test on the pistons with the specialized tool he has for it. I broke a bolt that had been lock(ed) tight, lock tighted once. I can validate it sticks. I went back to my Maypo not CC. Very interesting video as always, I liked the video modification, you may have a fall back career. :)
The fact this engine doesn't have a water pump is likely the only real difference between our channels.
Did you examine the big end rod bearings for wear ? Also having the engine apart could have been a good time to switch camshafts and upgrade the walve springs with the advice from Greg (red beard) not for mad power but a better bottom end for moving the extra weight of a car instead of a lawnmower. Great work again 👍🇬🇧🇺🇲
The only thing I'm worried about is if the oil pressure on the cam also lubricates the the lifters as well. for example if you need to drill an oil gallery from the gear side to where the ball bearings where to drip oil onto the lifters.
I have a 724cc briggs I was going to remove the compression relief on, I'm glad I watched this because I looked into it and briggs pcv is vented the SAME WAY. (Also I think this is a good time for an aftermarket cam in the 670 ;) )
Currently working on a conversion, Fiat Palio. Small front wheel drive light cheap car. Installing a Yanmar 3TNE78A. I think it will be interesting to see fuel consumption compared to your Kubota projects as this yanmar is direct injection
I enjoyed the video. Wish it was longer actually....
Nice video and great explanation.
Crank vent should still be routed to the valve cover then too a aftermarket PVC and catch can from a new port in valve cover for performance purposes
I assume the shaft will hold but if it doesn't wouldn't' a threaded restrictor fix the issue? Like a set screw with a hole through it to let some oil through? Or even a oil galley plug from a larger engine with a little hole in it. We typically use loctite retaining compound for sleeves and whatever else, at our shop.
I’d go with the jb weld option. Just fill the entire camshaft with it. Don’t question it. Jb weld is magic