Is The Fanatec QR2 Lite Worth the Upgrade? Lets Find Out!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2024
- Our Fanatec QR2 arrived. Is it any good? Lets Install it and find out.
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Boosted Media
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• FANATEC QR2 - Wheel S...
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• QR2 Lite Wheel-Side Vi...
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
03:27 Why I wanted a QR2 Lite
05:52 Wheelbase side QR
07:39 Brief look at CSL Steering Wheel
08:46 QR2 Lite steering wheel side
10:33 Recommended install videos
11:16 Important Installation Tip
13:27 Looking Closer at QR2 Lite
18:11 A strange problem
20:55 Driving Impressions - เกม
Are you going to upgrade to Fanatec's new QR2 system? Here's what I think of it. Timestamps and chapters are added so you can jump to whatever you're looking for.
Of course now they are releasing a csl dd with 12nm and a csl dd+ plus 15nm and works on pc,Xbox and pc
I have the McLaren wheel, so once the lowest round wheel releases with the QR2 system, I'll get the round wheel and order the QR2 shaft and connection for the McLaren wheel. Who knows how long it will take for the round wheel to actually ship with the QR2??? Then I'll be complete for a decade, except for a cockpit, which I don't have room for at the moment. So I'm with you that I'm gonna wait until the wheels start shipping with the QR2.
I can definitely notice the 1 or 2 degree slip between the motor shaft and the steering wheel in the QR1 system, so unlike you, the only reason I want to get the QR2 system is to get rid of that nasty loss of 1 or 2 degree "fidget". It really bothers me, especially when running Dirt Rally 2.0, in which the feedback vibrates like a crazy dilo. It's really noticable in Dirt Rally 2.0.
Went from QR1 with security bolt on my podium and went to QR2 PRO saw a nice bump in noticeable small sensations. Didn’t think that was possible but with how much more sturdy the connection is definitely transmits vibrations through the wheel. You’re not crazy! Also love having QRs that are actually quick
Good to seeya back Dan.
I got the QR 2 lite and it's great. i like the lite weight it has better feed back . I replaced the qr1 with the bolt
Great to have you back, Dan!
good to see you back
12:02 that makes not really any difference, you just need to re-calibrate the wheel center when you mount it upside down so it's calibration correct again. The F on the top will ALWAYS be on the top when the wheel sits straight.
That's awesome. Forza gave me the bug again after about 2.5 years away just wishing I had waited a couple more weeks for all the black Friday deals from fanatec.
Also went with the cslDd 8nm. My clubsport RS wheel came with the metal qr1 and it seems to fit nice and snug plus they were out of stock on the qr2 I would have wanted for it so I just sticking with that for a while.
Good to see you back
Great Video Dan👍Hang in there🏁
I'm so stoked man I got a wheel cause I watched your vids.
🤯 Excellent to see you posting content again Dan!!! 👍🏽💯😉 Heck, Where You Bine Mate?!?! 🤷🏽♂️
Good to see you again, Dan
Thank you Bud!
I get fanatec has issues right now but ive always gotten good ones from them. The dd+ is the best base ive ever used including the simagic 15nm the dd1 ans so on. This thing feels like its 20+nm and its homding torque is 15nm and it hss a slew rate of 6.2nm/ms which I believe is the highest of any wheel on the market! Its double that of the dd1 and dd2. Ive never felt details like this and catching slides is almost to easy. Its insane. You dont need to over think it now you dont need to judge it. You feel it right when it happens without a single lag behind.
Looks like you are really into it now im super hype you decided to stick with the videos!
Nice art behind you 😉
yup basically since covid my sim studio became an office for 2 and a "storage" spot for all our extra junk. We've since got it organized
Dan's back 💪💪
16:26 - are you sure it adds length to the overall setup? I have gone from the QR1 Lite to the standard QR2 and the distance from front to back is identical to QR1. The wheel rim is in exactly the same position as it was before - down to the mm. It seems odd that Fanatec would do something different with the Lite QR2.
If you install it upside down it will work. You just have to recalibrate the wheel since it will think right side up is facing upside down.
I'm probably going to get it when I get a new wheel at some point. I've had the CSL DD for a week now and I already encountered the disconnect problem and had to tighten the clamp a lot. I couldn't even finish one race without it disconnecting lol. Now it is working again. The new QR seems to get rid of that problem.
Edit: I totally forgot to thank you for making the video! So thanks :) I'm gonna test AMS 2 tomorrow.
did the qr2 fix the disconnection issue?
@@cozmiixxI decided to switch to Asetek. I had 2 CSL DD’s failing on me, both after a couple of hours of gaming amd Fanatec didn’t even refund it to me so I decided not to have anything to do with them.
@@MikaTarkela what issues was it you were having and did you not get the QR2 before you jumped shii to ASETEK?
@@cozmiixx I never tried the QR2. I'm too pissed off with their customer service and Fanatec's refund policy so I'm not giving them any chance anymore.. I had the disconnect / flex issue, couldn't even finish 1 race without the wheelbase disconnecting. One unit burned (smelled like something is burning and it wouldn't turn on after that). I ordered the CSL DD in December last year and I had it max. 2 weeks at my house but they refuse to refund it even after 2 units have broken. I'm waiting for a third unit from them and I'm probably going to sell it as soon as I receive it. I've heard the QR2 still has the same problem with disconnects.
The reason I went with Asetek is because I've only heard and read good things about them + their customer service is awesome. Their wheelbase doesn't have any flex or issues with the connection + the Invicta wheelbase has 5 usb ports for peripherals. Their ecosystem is the most open to date.
@@MikaTarkela ah right thats fair enough. from what i have read, the disconnection issues are from a combo of the QR1 lite being shitty quality and the shaft clamp not being strong enough to stay tight. I have tried putting tape inbetween the shaft and the qr and this does actually help it but obviously the tape gets shredded over time so this is only a temporary fix. i believe this is fixed in the qr2 system as they have a new dual point clamp and the qr2 fixing the shit tolerances they used for the qr1 lite. I have ordered a QR2 but it is shitty that you have to order an upgrade due to the original not working correctly. Will update this comment section if the disconnection issues i am getting stop.
I have the QR2 lites. I have 3 wheels and two simulator setups for myself and my son and the QR2 lite works perfectly. I've used them for over 20 hours so far with no issues yet. It's glass fiber reinforced plastic which is very strong plastic. I will say that it's overpriced, but thankfully I got my base side upgrades for only $20 each instead of almost $70. I have the playstation base and it came with the cheap but specialized gran turismo wheel and that sucker CREAKED so bad with the original connections. It doesn't creak anymore with the QR2 Lite
i thought it was only me!! having a defecive gt dd pro unit, i had the same experience. i put a piece of cloth between the QR1 lite and the base and now the wheel is firmly connected to the base! with no sloppy movements whatsoever no more weird shaking and crackling noises
Great vid! I guess I'm a nerd, because the only reason I have to go QR2 is because I can't stand the 2 degree fidget in my Fanatec plastic connection system. It is noticable in every game and shouts at me to get absolute zero fidget, like in every single other DD system out there. I can only wonder about the 2 degrees of lost feedback, even though it probably won't affect track times. (If you don't believe 2 degrees, hold the black clamp at the base of the motor shaft, and force "slip" the steering wheel. I SWEAR the slip is at least 2 degrees.
If you use the ball end of the Allen wrench you can seat the screws all the way down, that why it’s a ball end. I’m talking about the part going on the steering wheel
Yeah I tried that but they were tight so it was just spinning in the head. I was afraid it was going to strip. Hopefully that will work for most people!
Its good to see its easy to take the wheel off vs the v2.5 quick release where you end up smashing yourself in the face with the wheel😎 and are you gonna eventually upgrade your setup? New rig, monitors, pc?? Thank you for the video. Peace✌️
No Lie! Literally this happened to me 😂
DAN! You are my hero! I am hugely interested in the QR2 Lite. Thank you for this! Truly. Fanatec didn't give you a ball end Allen wrench with the QR2L?
No worries Bud! And thank you!
i got regular one it feels good. I seen from pics im more confident with qr2 lite than qr1 lite I have seen quite a bit reports about qr1 lites cracking but time will tell how qr2 will pan out
They should have a warranty on the QR2 plastic connection. I'm definitely going QR2 at some point. I'll wait and see if they do a black friday or cyber monday sale (like if the WRC 2023 game does)
Ordered my stuff with the QR1 for now, it should be fine, I might upgrade to the QR2 next year for Black Friday if it goes on sale again
me too waiting for my bundle
@@Voltomess Mine actually arrived a while ago, just in time for Christmas
@@CJ-uh8bk so far I got only shifter 😖😖 all other packages should be day after Christmas 😭😭
@@Voltomess Yikes that's unlucky, I ordered all my stuff in late September because I knew Fanatec were getting a lot of shit for delayed shipping, all my stuff arrived within like 10 days lmao I got lucky I guess
The QR2 is faster than the way you are using it. You just need to push the QR2 into the wheel base and it will connect. you only have to manipulate que QR2 to remove it.
If you use two longer bolts on the side they'll bottom out on the paddle shifters. I know from making that mistake. You notice the mistake almost instantly.
Oh man that stinks! Did it ruin the shifters?
Oh, so i need my torque wrench for the CSL DD, good thing to know...
Did you ever experience little knocks when changing directions quickly with the QR1 Lite? If so, how does the QR2 Lite compare? I have a GT DD Pro 8nm, and mine feel like they slip a bit everytime counter steering happens
I actually did hear a clicking/knocking noise when changing directions with the original QR but initially I thought it was just the cheap build of the CSL Steering wheel itself and not the QR1. But now that you bring this up I don't think I've been hearing it as much or maybe at all since the QR2 Lite. Since doing this video I've done a bunch more driving in various sims and it definitely feels tighter all around. I'll test and pay attention to that specifically this evening and get back with you.
Those knocks when you change direction are gone with QR2 Lite.
If you hold the black clamp at the base of the motor shaft and force turn the steering wheel, you can emulate that "slip" I "SWEAR" it's at least 2 degrees. No lie. That's all detail lost. If you take your wheel off a couple of times a day like me, after 6 months, that slip will be very slippery and easy to enact. It will affect the feel when the steering feedback fidgets left and right to emulate vibrations and road undulations, and you'll be wondering how much you didn't feel, because you're losing 2 degrees of left and right. Not to mention rumble curbs will start to sound like maybe you have a gear drive wheel, but a DD should be completely silent, and my CSL DD isn't.
@@virtualawakening2299 my GT DD Pro doesn't sound like it's as bad as your CSL DD, but all reports I could find are saying this issue effectively fixes this issue. It sucks that we have to spend more, though
i think the reason you feel that clicky sound untill you push it is because you never did tighten the 8nm bolt its clearly moving around as your explainingthe how to stop it.
I did and I used a torque wrench. Everything is tightened to spec.
I like your voice
How’s this holding up Dan?
Still working perfectly. No signs of potential issues so far!
yayayayayayayaya
I dont think the old qr1 lite is crappy. Maybe a bit inconvenient. But mine on the gran turismo wheel works perfectly and and locks it in solid. So concerning functionality, it works very well.
I can't stand the 1 or 2 degree fidget the old system has. The plastic connection only gets looser and looser and you really know when you're loosing feedback because you can feel the "CLICK" when the connection slips and then catches at the end. It probably doesn't reduce my lap times, but it ruins the immersion when all I can think is what I missed when the wheel slipped. And it really is 1 or 2 degrees. The slip is ridiculous. It doesn't bother some (lucky you), but it does bother others.
I don't think at all that the plastic QR1 is inconvenient. I unscrew my wheel a couple of times a day and never think I need a lever quick disconnect. It's the obvious fidget that I can't stand. It yells out at me in AC, ACC, Dirt Rally 2.0... "Click!" "Click!" "Click!" I truly can't wait for Zero slip QR2.
The old QR1 system is truly crappy, when compared to every single other DD company out there. They all have absolute 0 slip, except for the QR1 system. Finally, Fanatec has just caught up with every one else. I'm so happy, but unhappy about having to spend money. Not even a loyalty discount for previous original buyers? bah.
@@virtualawakening2299and the metal quick release QR1 is also bad and has slipping and clicking? I just want to order a steering wheel with a metal QR1, it’s not expensive now from Fanatec
answer to your title,probably if you can get fanatec to actually make a delivery possible.
They do deliver, but by FedEx in the USA, which is the absolute worst. I made an order, and it was shipped piece mail in 4 separate boxes. I told FedEx to ship it to my nearest Wallgreens, and only half of it went there, and the other half went to my home. Thank god it wasn't stolen. FedEx is the worst. I once ordered car tires, and they came and threw the tires over the fence and drove off without a signature for $400 tires. hwow.
I've been using ClubSport QR1 for 2.5 years and never had any issues till about 6 months ago. It was rock solid for the first 2 years, NO movement in the QR what so ever. I started to noice the play that everyone was talking about 6 months ago and then 3 months ago I started to get the knocking noise when suddenly changing direction. Doesn't bother me with the headset on, but the moment I change to the speakers I can hear it, which somehow makes me feel it. So I've preordered the ClubSport DD with new QR2-Pro, a lot of money for all the QR's for my wheels, but I'll never need to look back. Do it once, do it right.
Use tape trick and that's it. This will fix micro movement of metal parts
I don't think tape can eliminate the 2 degree slip in the QR1 system. It might dampen it out so you don't feel the obvious "CLICK", but you're still losing detail. And with every single other DD system out there having absolute 0 slip, the tape trick is just a cheap trick. I'm a total fan of Fanatec's ecosystem, so for new buyers, you might want to wait until they start shipping with the QR2 system and compare total costs, especially after shipping costs. Fanatec might go FedEx (the worst) but I guess maybe the ceapest? I remember when Moza wanted to charge almost $200 US dollars for shipping!!! (which is why I went Fanatec)
I totally agree with "Do it once, do it right." I upgraded straight from Thrustmaster T-150 to CSL DD 8nm with McLaren wheel. Know your end game. Save money for the inevitable computer upgrades.
and the metal quick release QR1 is also bad and has slipping and clicking? I just want to order a steering wheel with a metal QR1, it’s not expensive now from Fanatec
@@user-fx7on4qn8t I only have metal QR1 on my wheels. In my eyes, the movement is only significant if you have raced on other high end gear. If you're coming from Thrustmaster or Logitech etc then you'll be happy. If value is what you're looking for then take advantage of the current sale, QR1 has been around and operating for years, so it does the job.
I'd suggest you drape something over the shelves and reduce all your vocal filler. You're interesting and pertinent but too much filler
this was my 2nd video back after a two year layoff. That room was a multi-use mix of chaos when I shot this lol. The video was totally random at the time and I hadn't planned on returning to regular youtube work. Check my more recent videos. I've done 18 more since this.
Tf?! 🤡🤡
easy marketing trick of fanatec. Only put in cheap cr4p, then people will buy your proprietary WAY overpriced accessoires. They learned good from thrustmaster. Sad to see as a german that this company with a, once, flawless reputation, now goes the same way down the stream like logitech and tm. I guess in 2028 fanatec will produce the same cheap things like the former named ones.
But luckily theres moza.
I've been testing moza gear for a bit now and it's fantastic! Steering wheel has a bit of a rattle. Probably loose wire or something but even still it's extremely nice!
Thanks. There’s no way I’m buying that. I’ll keep my QR 1.
I'm absolutely buying the QR2. The QR1 has obvious 2 degree slip when every single other DD system has absolute 0 slip. When I hit rumble strips, like in Dirt Rally 2.0, I can totally hear the vibration of the QR1 system clicking left and right, when the DD should be absolutely silent. I'm losing 2 degrees of fine details. That's a lot. I bought the Fanatec system because at the time I ordered, Moza wanted fucking $200 in shipping. like wtf.
This is just the cheapest version you have the QR2 and then the QR2 pro which aren't plastic
Moza is better way better connection
No it’s not. Fanatec is no1.
@davidcupra4913 yeah no.1 more expensive and less quality . I owned a CSLDD pro and after 6 months I have flex on my steering wheel connector to the hub.
@@ericvtec-lb3mg it's not hardware it's always a bad driver.
QR2 Lite is waste of the money... If you buy QR2 just buy the metal one that is not much more expensive, but you get way better product.
I've had no issues with it. It's been solid. Personally I think the one you should buy will depend on what steering wheel you are using. There's no way I would put the more expensive QR2 on the CSL Steering wheel because it's overkill. But yes, I agree that if you are mounting it to a higher end steering wheel, for sure go with the metal one.
I stripped my CSL DD retaining screw on shaft (dummy) and am thinking of going QR2 lites. I have 4 rims! thats 400 bucks for JUST releases! How I hate you fanatec...nearly bout to just shit can it all and go sim magic or moza!
Moza & Simagic may not be a bad idea at this point with Fanatec's potential financial issues. I've been testing the Moza R9 V2 and it's been fantastic!