I just wanted to thank you for the guidence you give! Returning to archery and bowhunting after too many years away, and I previously shot a compound, although I shot a glove rather than a release even with it. So now I am shooting an SF Forged riser with 32# SF Premium Plus limbs, and a hunting 45 # ILF recurve and I am loving it. Seting up to build and tune my own arrows. I am working towards high FOC and extreme FOC for my hunting rig. I may eventually go to barebow but for now using the target bow to dial in my form and release seems the way to go. Even started to have my son video me so I can see my form and release. Anyway thanks again, it is invaluable to have an olympic archer's take on training, form and equipment.
Thanks Jake I was one that asked you that question I’ve done that simple turn of the nock which did help I also increased my brace height slightly which seemed to help and I still loose one now and then and it seems to be poor release that contributes as well thanks again
I have actually found a different solution, though it may not actually solve clearance itself. I started using Eli Vanes which are basically indestructible and never had any vane teared. And that would include bad shots under the clicker or the ones that went right through the target. Then again, this video definitely answered the question why it happened with other vanes.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery They have different wrapping tape now which is much tighter. Also probably need to take different shapes into consideration. A friend of mine quite recently shot whole end through the weak target when tuning new arrows and nothing happened to them. Regular spin wings would be pretty dead.
I have to update my statement on Eli vanes. Other friend of mine shot with S3 version and they actually got damaged and even lost a bit of color. I on the other hand have literally 0 issues with P3 version. Different versions seems to behave differently in terms of durability.
I was ripping off my bottom fletching and realized that my arrow rest was sticking out almost a quarter inch past the shaft of my arrow. Like you said, if you don't have a properly tuned bow, you can rip for other reasons. Once I adjusted my rest to be sitting just 1/32 over the shaft of the arrow, I didn't rip any more.
Just share my experience. My top vane also easily tear off even on the 3rd shoot. Then I just realized that my nocking point was too low. Hence the top vane hits the plunger. After increased the nocking point, no issue anymore.
Having issues with 23’s clearing roller guard on v3x when i fletch with spine alignment cock vane on spine. Can i just turn nock to point where vanes clear and keep spine alignment same?
I have been shooting off the shelve for the first couple of months (\me is a total newbie) and ripped the bottom right feathers really badly in the first few days. Problem was, my brace height was far too low . (< 8", now around 9" for a 68" recurve). Also nock-point too low, but that has less effect here. Generally, traditional setups off-the-shelve need higher nock points (> 15mm) and a brace height on the top edge of recommendations or evene a little above, from what i can tell.
Brother.... I just have a regular bow. Plain jane lol. I started shooting with the Eastern style, but now I'm shooting with the Western style. I can't figure out the best place to rest my arrow as all i have is my hand and the bows handle thats it. It was given to me for my son and i think its a boy scout bow but it is way to hard for a kid that small to pull and its adult sized. I've always wanted to learn so I've decided to try, but I am ripping off the vanes and really need some advice. Sorry, it's a lot. Haha If only i wasn't poor and could buy a really good bow. Maybe someday.
Hi Jake! I came back to this video 'cause I am having problems currently with tearing the bottom tape on the vanes multiple times per shoot, sometimes it doesn't even affects the X-wings vanes I use (same problem of one the commentators below). Does the nock rotation helps solving this issue, or is this related with something else?
Tearing the tape on the vanes? As in the tape you tape down the ends? If that, wrap the tape more rotations and stretch to rip at the end and they should stay down.
It looks like it was an arrow spin issue. I increased the bow a couple of pounds, tuned the bow again, and the tearing of the tape (yes, the tape I tape down the ends) vanished. Thanks for the tip, anyway.
Finally! A video that answered my tearing issue. Awesome explanation.
Yep, I am tearing way too many vanes. Guess I will need a set of practice arrow for my Recurve and another for my Bowtech TomKat.
I dig the glasses man- suits you. Thanks for all the great videos- they have been really helpful!
I just wanted to thank you for the guidence you give! Returning to archery and bowhunting after too many years away, and I previously shot a compound, although I shot a glove rather than a release even with it. So now I am shooting an SF Forged riser with 32# SF Premium Plus limbs, and a hunting 45 # ILF recurve and I am loving it. Seting up to build and tune my own arrows. I am working towards high FOC and extreme FOC for my hunting rig. I may eventually go to barebow but for now using the target bow to dial in my form and release seems the way to go. Even started to have my son video me so I can see my form and release. Anyway thanks again, it is invaluable to have an olympic archer's take on training, form and equipment.
Great video again! Slowly but surely you're solving all my archery issues. So thank you!
Thanks Jake I was one that asked you that question I’ve done that simple turn of the nock which did help I also increased my brace height slightly which seemed to help and I still loose one now and then and it seems to be poor release that contributes as well thanks again
Reading my mind with these videos.
Useful! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼. I actually shoot bare shaft now, out to 50y.
Just got your book, very useful and clear pictures. Thank you
My nock point on my string dropped , so clearance with riser shelf was not great, hence shredding the bottom vein all the time. Hope this also helps
Jake, you are the best.
Thank you, Jake.
So helpful. Thank you!
I have actually found a different solution, though it may not actually solve clearance itself. I started using Eli Vanes which are basically indestructible and never had any vane teared. And that would include bad shots under the clicker or the ones that went right through the target. Then again, this video definitely answered the question why it happened with other vanes.
I still tore mine off. But this was when they first came out.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery They have different wrapping tape now which is much tighter. Also probably need to take different shapes into consideration. A friend of mine quite recently shot whole end through the weak target when tuning new arrows and nothing happened to them. Regular spin wings would be pretty dead.
I have to update my statement on Eli vanes. Other friend of mine shot with S3 version and they actually got damaged and even lost a bit of color. I on the other hand have literally 0 issues with P3 version. Different versions seems to behave differently in terms of durability.
Thankyou jake for making such useful content
I was ripping off my bottom fletching and realized that my arrow rest was sticking out almost a quarter inch past the shaft of my arrow. Like you said, if you don't have a properly tuned bow, you can rip for other reasons. Once I adjusted my rest to be sitting just 1/32 over the shaft of the arrow, I didn't rip any more.
Just share my experience. My top vane also easily tear off even on the 3rd shoot. Then I just realized that my nocking point was too low. Hence the top vane hits the plunger. After increased the nocking point, no issue anymore.
Hey Jake - should left handed archers use left hand spin wings too??
Thanks again for a next great video
May I ask what if the clicker tear off?
Having issues with 23’s clearing roller guard on v3x when i fletch with spine alignment cock vane on spine. Can i just turn nock to point where vanes clear and keep spine alignment same?
Any pointers for tearing vane tape? No issue with the vanes, but I tear the bottom tape on my vanes multiple times per shoot
Hi Diane, I have the same problem regarding the vane tape, did you find any solution? Thanks!
I have been shooting off the shelve for the first couple of months (\me is a total newbie) and ripped the bottom right feathers really badly in the first few days. Problem was, my brace height was far too low . (< 8", now around 9" for a 68" recurve). Also nock-point too low, but that has less effect here. Generally, traditional setups off-the-shelve need higher nock points (> 15mm) and a brace height on the top edge of recommendations or evene a little above, from what i can tell.
Good recommendations.
Love the video and super useful! Btw what dampeners are on the aae rods on the riser in the background?
Old Doinkers that came on the Quadraflex stabilizers (circa 2006)
👍. Thank you and this video helped me a ton. Thanks!
Brother.... I just have a regular bow. Plain jane lol. I started shooting with the Eastern style, but now I'm shooting with the Western style. I can't figure out the best place to rest my arrow as all i have is my hand and the bows handle thats it. It was given to me for my son and i think its a boy scout bow but it is way to hard for a kid that small to pull and its adult sized. I've always wanted to learn so I've decided to try, but I am ripping off the vanes and really need some advice. Sorry, it's a lot. Haha If only i wasn't poor and could buy a really good bow. Maybe someday.
My veins start to ripple, I use a whisker biscuit. why would they do that?
so if i nock tuned all my arrows, i would have to rip all vanes and reglue them no?
Yep
Hi Jake, just want to ask if there is any competition rule requiring the use of two different colored vanes, or is it just a personal choice?
Personal preference.
Hi Jake! I came back to this video 'cause I am having problems currently with tearing the bottom tape on the vanes multiple times per shoot, sometimes it doesn't even affects the X-wings vanes I use (same problem of one the commentators below). Does the nock rotation helps solving this issue, or is this related with something else?
Hi Paulo, I have the same problem...Any solution you found? Thanks!
@@easonyuyizhang7438 Hi Eason , not yet unfortunately!
Tearing the tape on the vanes? As in the tape you tape down the ends? If that, wrap the tape more rotations and stretch to rip at the end and they should stay down.
It looks like it was an arrow spin issue. I increased the bow a couple of pounds, tuned the bow again, and the tearing of the tape (yes, the tape I tape down the ends) vanished. Thanks for the tip, anyway.
I've spent almost $100 on vanes because they kept getting ripped off, I've tried pretty much everything...I hope this video helps.
As simple as that
First!