Thank you for sharing this. You saved me so much time diagnosing my Suzuki DT55. It was the inner diaphragm that was torn. Thank you from Ontario Canada!
Had a DT30 new on an Aussie Savage 13ft 6 in ally boat. Beautiful motor, very smooth and a piece of cake to pull start. When I first went for a run, I noticed after about 30 mins , the oil light was staying on. I was only running it in so was just cruising along, but returned home as a precaution, idling all the way. Luckily I had pre mixed the fuel at about 40/1 as a precaution against something going wrong. Checked the motor once home, and found the boat shop hadn't bled the oil lines, which had large bubbles in them. Bled all the lines and was good after that, -no more bubbles. Did the proper running in procedure to the letter, but when using full throttle, (once run in) it sounded like it was lagging. Got the wife to drive flat out and adjusted the carbs on the go, finding they were about 1/2 a turn lean. Don't think the boat shop even PD'd it, (said they did, but no way) Starting was so easy, I actually arsed over in the boat. As I went to put some effort into the pull start the first time ( thought a 30's going to need a little bit of grunt). motor started on the first foot of cord with zero effort, and I ended up flat on my back in the bottom of the boat. People on the beach had a good laugh. Never had a problem with it after the adjustments. Always added a bit of oil to the fuel though just as insurance.
Thanks for that nice video. Your suzuki dt runs very smooth...I have a dt30 and would like to sync carbs but I dont know which bolts I have to open in order to access the vacuum with the device...would you maybe describe me which bolts i have to open?
Hi Stephen, I'm wondering if you could help, I've acquired a DT30C exactly the same as yours, it has the charging regulator/rectifier but there is no lead and or fuse line that should be on the solenoid terminal where the Positive from the battery connects, I was wondering if you had any photos of where yours runs from and to so i could make something up so I can get it charging the battery again? Thanks
Hi. Good vid. My dt25 has the same issues. When i cleaned the carbs, I found that the bottom carb had no adjustment screw,( the one on the left w/ no spring). Tried one of the others in the port and it won't screw in. Any advice? Thanks Chris
Your experience sounds so frustrating. I’m running into a similar issue and I’m pulling my hair out trying to diagnose the issue. So are you saying that your whole problem was that the fuel pump was leaking fuel into the crank case? In the end all you needed to do was replace the fuel pump?
Hello, i did block the 3 holes where the oil goes into the crank case, but there are another 3 holes . there are 3 little square brass connectors where the oil pipes join together just before the short pipe going into the crank. That square connector has a tiny hole in it coming from the crank case mixing air with the oil to airate the oil, this hole also needs to be blocked. Thanks.
![Fixing a 2-STROKE OUTBOARD Motor [Capable Cruising Guides]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for sharing this. You saved me so much time diagnosing my Suzuki DT55. It was the inner diaphragm that was torn. Thank you from Ontario Canada!
Had a DT30 new on an Aussie Savage 13ft 6 in ally boat. Beautiful motor, very smooth and a piece of cake to pull start. When I first went for a run, I noticed after about 30 mins , the oil light was staying on. I was only running it in so was just cruising along, but returned home as a precaution, idling all the way. Luckily I had pre mixed the fuel at about 40/1 as a precaution against something going wrong. Checked the motor once home, and found the boat shop hadn't bled the oil lines, which had large bubbles in them. Bled all the lines and was good after that, -no more bubbles. Did the proper running in procedure to the letter, but when using full throttle, (once run in) it sounded like it was lagging. Got the wife to drive flat out and adjusted the carbs on the go, finding they were about 1/2 a turn lean. Don't think the boat shop even PD'd it, (said they did, but no way) Starting was so easy, I actually arsed over in the boat. As I went to put some effort into the pull start the first time ( thought a 30's going to need a little bit of grunt). motor started on the first foot of cord with zero effort, and I ended up flat on my back in the bottom of the boat. People on the beach had a good laugh. Never had a problem with it after the adjustments. Always added a bit of oil to the fuel though just as insurance.
Just bought one of these myself epic engineering!
I have the same problem with a evinrude 6hp. Now tank to you video i find the problem. I will tear down this headache.
Did you fix it ?
I have a buddy with a similar vintage Suzuki 55 that is having issues at idle (tick over). I sent him a link to this video as he may find it useful.
Paldies par informaciju….
Nice tips. Thanks
Thanks for that nice video. Your suzuki dt runs very smooth...I have a dt30 and would like to sync carbs but I dont know which bolts I have to open in order to access the vacuum with the device...would you maybe describe me which bolts i have to open?
You the man!!! Thank you so much
Good trouble shooting skills. Thank you.
thanks
Hi Stephen, I'm wondering if you could help, I've acquired a DT30C exactly the same as yours, it has the charging regulator/rectifier but there is no lead and or fuse line that should be on the solenoid terminal where the Positive from the battery connects, I was wondering if you had any photos of where yours runs from and to so i could make something up so I can get it charging the battery again? Thanks
Hi. Good vid. My dt25 has the same issues. When i cleaned the carbs, I found that the bottom carb had no adjustment screw,( the one on the left w/ no spring). Tried one of the others in the port and it won't screw in.
Any advice? Thanks Chris
Your experience sounds so frustrating. I’m running into a similar issue and I’m pulling my hair out trying to diagnose the issue. So are you saying that your whole problem was that the fuel pump was leaking fuel into the crank case? In the end all you needed to do was replace the fuel pump?
sorry i havnt replied earlier, for the sake of £10 renew your fuel pump, a bad one can cause all kinds of problems.
if your getting the popping at the top of the engine it is probally the top seal on the crankshaft.
Good job mate,I have a 90 merc with a random misfire,done the pump,carbs,compressions,spark.
Now thinking a bent Reed valve or crank seal?
Check ignition timing
Perfect Video, how does it run with you not blocking the brass oil injectors in the front crank case?????
Hello, i did block the 3 holes where the oil goes into the crank case, but there are another 3 holes . there are 3 little square brass connectors where the oil pipes join together just before the short pipe going into the crank. That square connector has a tiny hole in it coming from the crank case mixing air with the oil to airate the oil, this hole also needs to be blocked. Thanks.
hello, i did crimp the small injector pipes closed, thanks.
Thank u
As much time you invested in motor I would have junked it