I am replacing my bushings and this video is great. The question I have is the angles of front and rear mounts. Looks like the rear was 15 Degrees and the front was 20 Degrees. Is this correct (surprised Chuck didn't verbally say what degrees they should be), I had to replay the video to read the digital measure tool. EDIT: I watched another video on you tube. 15% on the rear and 20% on the front is the correct answer. FYI.
The rubber seat between the flange on the mount and flange on the arm can squeeze out, picture those rubber bumpers on shock mounts. You tighten them and they mushroom a bit. That's what squeezes out. Not the bushing from the mount.
Wow this video is old , was it originally made on VHS? Cool, this vintage advice still applies. Some more questions 1/2 answered: Is it okay to use Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant and Sealant? I ended up using liquid soap after wiping off most of the 111 silicone stuff...as good as that stuff is I realized it may NEVER dry. How large of a bar-clamp do you need? I used a plumbers pipe-clamp, these are typically made a section of black gas pipe ( you buy the red ends: crank and stop separately). ...minimum range would be about the length of the "A" arm...
Soap would work just fine. It's a fatty acid, and in this case liquid at room temperature. While it does have water in it, chemically it will remain liquid and stable even at slightly higher temperatures, like the pressure from the weight of the car combined with the flexing of the suspension. There is no salt in soap, *827rover, so get your facts straight. Silicone grease is the better alternative, but not necessary.
I am replacing my bushings and this video is great. The question I have is the angles of front and rear mounts. Looks like the rear was 15 Degrees and the front was 20 Degrees. Is this correct (surprised Chuck didn't verbally say what degrees they should be), I had to replay the video to read the digital measure tool.
EDIT: I watched another video on you tube. 15% on the rear and 20% on the front is the correct answer. FYI.
Very informative, thank you folks at Elephant for posting, but you really should have then vice bolted down
I assume once you remove your existing control arms you could also take a measurement of the angles prior to removing the mounts
The rubber seat between the flange on the mount and flange on the arm can squeeze out, picture those rubber bumpers on shock mounts. You tighten them and they mushroom a bit. That's what squeezes out. Not the bushing from the mount.
Wow this video is old , was it originally made on VHS? Cool, this vintage advice still applies.
Some more questions 1/2 answered:
Is it okay to use Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant and Sealant? I ended up using liquid soap after wiping off most of the 111 silicone stuff...as good as that stuff is I realized it may NEVER dry.
How large of a bar-clamp do you need? I used a plumbers pipe-clamp, these are typically made a section of black gas pipe ( you buy the red ends: crank and stop separately). ...minimum range would be about the length of the "A" arm...
Great and useful clip for sure
Are the angles the same on 911 and 914-6?
I would imagine they wouldn't want the area to remain slick. Soap should dry up and stick, grease would take a long time to reach a hard dry state.
Where do you buy the bushings kit including the tools. I never see the tools come with. stop tool pilot tool.
Thank you.
Elephant Racing
Good job.
Soap would work just fine. It's a fatty acid, and in this case liquid at room temperature. While it does have water in it, chemically it will remain liquid and stable even at slightly higher temperatures, like the pressure from the weight of the car combined with the flexing of the suspension. There is no salt in soap, *827rover, so get your facts straight. Silicone grease is the better alternative, but not necessary.
Yeah, it's not this easy.