12:48 Do cover the inner side of the nand shield with kapton tape. The solder blob will touch the shield (grounding it) at some point in time if the console is dropped or shaken. Happened to me once.
@10:55 you dropped some solder on the bottom of that 3.3v connection at the top of the ribbon cable real quick but you didn't say anything and when I pause it, it looks like there are connections at the top and bottom but you just did a real quick job on the bottom connection but not the top? @ 12:05 you show a really good pic of it but the top is not soldered? Does that 3.3v not need to be connected at both ends? It also looks like you're supposed to jump the two together on the top and bottom? What's going on there? Seems kinda important.
Using a thin layer of solder mask on the ground points and on top of the dat0 to where the plate was ripped is what I did. Works like a charm just keep the UV light on for about 5 minutes to get a strong solid cure.
Hey, thank you for the nice tutorial. I was just having a question: Can you solder on the D point instead of the C point on the cable too? I knock the copper off the C point quite often and was wondering if I can use D as an alternative in that case
Use a toothpick not that iron tool scraping off stuff like for cleaning off the paste and use isopropyl for the paste cleaning Also deepclean everything with alcohol after every point you solder
You’re welcome. Microscope is a Leica. Camera is an Eakins. I have tried a few others and pretty much any $300 and up look the same. Got it on aliexpress, no model #.
@Wayayeo thanks for replying! Which wier soldering do you recommend my to use? I'm using this one ( Tin 97%, Silver 0.3%, Cuper 0.7%, Flex 2%), but I'm having a hard time to deal with it. My machine is Sugon A9. Big thanks in advance.
@@WayayeoI have an smd soldering station hot air + stylo can reach 900 F. I ask this because I planned to mod my Switch v2 and dont want to overheat the pcb.
So I attempted this myself, though I did ok, had all the right readings. Got the firmware flashed and it won't boot. It gives me one solid blue light, then yellow x2 a pause yellow x2, pause yellow x2 and then nothing. What could I have possible messed up? 🤦♂️
@Wayayeo yeah, I'm not sure... I think I messed something else up, I removed it and the system still wouldn't power on, so I think it's a new mobo time and pay someone with better eyesight to install it 🤷🏻♂️😬😅
I hate to be that person, but what are you installing on the board? I’m pretty sure it’s some kind of bypass or a common issue on these Oled’s, but I haven’t worked on any thus far, but would love to know what issues this resolves with them Thank you
Hello, thank you very much for everything you do I have a problem the device boots directly to the base system and does not enter the modified system The shape of the flashes of the LED lamp is as follows : th-cam.com/users/shortsO8dwRjmyKEs?si=zaDRE-_ccsvqzlR_ Can you help me solve this problem? Thank you very much
I have this exact problem where it flashes blue followed by 2 yellows 3 times I checked all the connections are made perfectly no shortage either All the values appears to be ok on continuity any advise???
@@GameOn-li6qe In my case I think the problem is in point C As far as I know, the value should be between 0.6 and 0.7 For me, the color of the flash is blue and green maybe your problem is modchip firmware, i wish you find a solution
12:48
Do cover the inner side of the nand shield with kapton tape. The solder blob will touch the shield (grounding it) at some point in time if the console is dropped or shaken. Happened to me once.
Good point. Thank you.
really good video, used it to mod my oled with no issues! Thanks amigo
This is what I like to hear. I’m very glad it helped. 👍
I hope you charge well you have some real skill and make it look super easy
At 5:04 i recommend once slid in to check with the multimeter to ensure you are getting the correct readings before grounding it to the shield.
I’ve done it so many times that I developed a good hand but your advice is definitely good. Thank you for the input.
@10:55 you dropped some solder on the bottom of that 3.3v connection at the top of the ribbon cable real quick but you didn't say anything and when I pause it, it looks like there are connections at the top and bottom but you just did a real quick job on the bottom connection but not the top? @ 12:05 you show a really good pic of it but the top is not soldered? Does that 3.3v not need to be connected at both ends? It also looks like you're supposed to jump the two together on the top and bottom? What's going on there? Seems kinda important.
Bottom of cable is the 3.3 v top is ground but chip is already grounded so not needed. Just saving time.
Can you explain the software part to finish the work? Thank you!
10:26 for some reason solder never wants to grab the flex cable with this resistor, does it even need to be soldered together to work?
No need to solder it. It will work just fine as this is just for support.
What if you pull up the ground points at 5:00 I cut it out went to pull out and whole pad came with it
Doesn't matter for the installation itself, you just need to find a way to fixate the dat0 adapter.
Using a thin layer of solder mask on the ground points and on top of the dat0 to where the plate was ripped is what I did. Works like a charm just keep the UV light on for about 5 minutes to get a strong solid cure.
Hey, thank you for the nice tutorial. I was just having a question:
Can you solder on the D point instead of the C point on the cable too? I knock the copper off the C point quite often and was wondering if I can use D as an alternative in that case
You need both d and c points. If the copper on flex is damaged the solder directly to chip. Good luck and happy gaming.
Was that my Splatoon OLED? I’m curious why you don’t put the heat shield back on after install? Is it just not necessary?
I find that the dark blue Dat 0 connector is more stable than the yellow one
yesss
Use a toothpick not that iron tool scraping off stuff like for cleaning off the paste and use isopropyl for the paste cleaning
Also deepclean everything with alcohol after every point you solder
Thank you for the tips buddy.
Hi, thank you for this tutorial! Where i can find that dat0
The smallest wire I have is 20 gauge. Will that be small enough?
That’s too big my friend. Use at least 36 awg
Thanks for your video!
Do you mind sharing the model of your microscope? Footage looks sharp and detailed. Good job 🎉
You’re welcome. Microscope is a Leica. Camera is an Eakins. I have tried a few others and pretty much any $300 and up look the same. Got it on aliexpress, no model #.
Which microscope did you recommended me to get one? Thanks in advance.
Anything from a $400 rage from aliexpress works fine
@Wayayeo thanks for replying! Which wier soldering do you recommend my to use? I'm using this one ( Tin 97%, Silver 0.3%, Cuper 0.7%, Flex 2%), but I'm having a hard time to deal with it. My machine is Sugon A9. Big thanks in advance.
Thank u for this step by step tutorial. How can I recognise latest rp2040 mod?
You’re welcome. Get from a reputable seller. You can always upgrade firmware. Good luck !
Did you flash the chip or it has a default firmware for OLED?
This depends on seller.
Hi, what is the temp. that you use for soldering?
It really depends on your equipment but I find 680-720 f works for me.
@@WayayeoI have an smd soldering station hot air + stylo can reach 900 F. I ask this because I planned to mod my Switch v2 and dont want to overheat the pcb.
Which Temperatur is recommended?
680F
What temperature was your soldering iron at?
680 F
@@Wayayeo Thanks!
So I attempted this myself, though I did ok, had all the right readings. Got the firmware flashed and it won't boot. It gives me one solid blue light, then yellow x2 a pause yellow x2, pause yellow x2 and then nothing. What could I have possible messed up? 🤦♂️
Possibly your DA0 point but I’d check for any shorted points. Good luck
@Wayayeo yeah, I'm not sure... I think I messed something else up, I removed it and the system still wouldn't power on, so I think it's a new mobo time and pay someone with better eyesight to install it 🤷🏻♂️😬😅
Check for shorts.
what is this microscop name?
I have a few. If you’re looking for a recommendation. Look into the brand Lyca.
Which cables are you using? 36awg? At what temperature are you soldering it to make it strip so fast? Thank you
38 awg. 700F on soldering tip.
Thank you, I'm doing some practice and when it comes to wires, it's a mess for me
I hate to be that person, but what are you installing on the board? I’m pretty sure it’s some kind of bypass or a common issue on these Oled’s, but I haven’t worked on any thus far, but would love to know what issues this resolves with them
Thank you
Your videos are showing up in fyp feed to ppl who aren't subscribed. What's RP2040? should put more detail in the title
I appreciate the info.
Raspberry pi 2040 is a chip that is universally used for lots of mods including picoboot on GameCube
Thanks
You’re Welcome
Hello, thank you very much for everything you do
I have a problem the device boots directly to the base system and does not enter the modified system
The shape of the flashes of the LED lamp is as follows :
th-cam.com/users/shortsO8dwRjmyKEs?si=zaDRE-_ccsvqzlR_
Can you help me solve this problem? Thank you very much
Check all points with multimeter. Also check for shorts.
@@Wayayeo ok thank you i will check
I have this exact problem where it flashes blue followed by 2 yellows 3 times
I checked all the connections are made perfectly no shortage either
All the values appears to be ok on continuity
any advise???
@@GameOn-li6qe In my case
I think the problem is in point C
As far as I know, the value should be between 0.6 and 0.7
For me, the color of the flash is blue and green
maybe your problem is modchip firmware, i wish you find a solution
@@GameOn-li6qe th-cam.com/users/shortsaxeFMjMtc3A?si=OAaB3w-HFLErgg06