😀 Share your best 'hack' with us too! ✂️ For a sewing skill library and online resource guide at your finger tips, join me and a community of other like minded sewists at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/ as I would love to have you in class!
These are fabulous tips Evelyn - thank you! The only one I knew of was marking spaces on your thumb for hand sewing - and that I learnt from you through vintage sewing school 💚 Covid lockdown here in SA has given me the opportunity to catch up on most of your videos and keep up with sewing school viewing only because I am Into nearly 4 weeks post recovery from shoulder surgery with another 4 weeks to go before I can get back into sewing. The frustration is real!!! Hugs 🐾
My Favorite tip is to shine/Polish your sewing machine AND hand sewing NEEDLE with Steel Wool very fine. Then smooth with flannel if needed. The needles last forever. They are Very Very sharp!. and Glide through the Fabric sooooo nicely. If you can't find beeswax... Thread Magic is a really great product. Not all natural but very easy to use and doesn't dry out. Make sure you don't buy Beeswax from the Dollartree or very cheap from Hobby Lobby. You won't like it. You should be able to use your Thread Wax and the Magic Thread on YoYo's as well. Smooth action... Just like in your machine. This tells us that it works for other things as well. :D. Excellent sewing for everyone.
@@deannastevens1217Very cool tip, I just started sewing and have just been using the universal one the machine came with. I've just reached the point where I'm going to be purchasing some so I can work with knits and denim, which makes me wonder....Do you basically never need to buy more than one of each needle type when using that method? And does it matter if they are the titanium coated needles vs the regular ones?
I'm thinking of you as you go through your treatments, Evelyn. Even though you aren't making new videos right now, you are being remembered with fondness. All the best for your great recovery!
My late mother, also named Evelyn, was an amazing seamstress. She taught me these tricks: use a bar of soap as your pin cushion - the soap coats the pins and helps them slide through fabric easier; if your needles or pins are dull you can run them through your hair and they'll sharpen right up - same for diaper pins, though not sure they get much use these days; use a piece of foam tape to mark your seam allowance on your machine - that way the fabric will bump up against it as it glides through the machine, as opposed to you having to make it line up with a drawn on line. She used to tape a paper lunch bag to the edge of her sewing table whenever she sewed for gathering up bits of thread, etc and other garbage. She always ironed her sewing patterns before and after using them, saying it made them easier to use and later to fold and store away. I could go on and on but already this is quite long. Thanks!
A thick rubber band over the sewing area of my machine acts as an easily-moved sewing guide. To pull up the bobbin thread easily I keep a bit of metal the size of a darning needle only blunt at each end, with a bit of coloured tape round it so I can stick it to my machine or locate it easily.
@@LynneLaRochelle In my home-ec class (about 1963-4) My instructor recommended this, she also had us put one on our ironing board. It helps keep the sewing area tidy.
The little strawberry attached to the tomato pincusion is filled with emory to sharpen pins and needles, just a couple of stabs is all it takes. Keeping needles sharp and thread waxed makes it so much easier.
OhMyGosh! I have been sewing couture garments for decades - which means endless hours of hand sewing. I hate to think how many of my favorite hand sewing needles were discarded because I didn’t know this! Many thanks for the tip!
@@lydiahilovska9474 I've made a few shifts with 100% linen and a cotton/linen blend, it sewed much like cotton. The problem i had with linen was that it can fray a bit.
@@lydiahilovska9474 linen i find is pretty similar to work with as cotton. Like someone said before me already it does tend to fray a bit more and try to get the best linen you can afford. I cheapened out on my first try and it held together for only one summer before it literally tore in the wash.
YES!!! Thank you for making this comment I totally forgot to mention this in the video of course! Spray starch is like sewing magic and works for so many purposes!
I use a segments of rubber coated chain as fabric weights. It can twist and turn around any pattern shape and since it's coated, it doesn't slip or leave marks.
I have been sewing for 56 years and never heard (even my professional Mom) of marking your thumb to get consistent stitch lengths. Thank you, once again, for teaching an "old" sewer, something new.
My grandmother used to use a fine comb held under her thumb on top of the material she was hand sewing when sewing long straight lines to make the stitches as even as possible. My Mom used to embroider a lot , and I mean a LOT. I still use some of her work as decoration around the house, call me old fashioned, but I love it. I noticed that after practicing hand stitches for a while , if I drew a thin line with washable marker on the garment, my stitches became so even they almost like machine stitches. Don't know how it happened, but just like magic, my eyes began to see exactly where to put the needle. Thanks for the great tips Evelyn. :)
I hold the fabric so differently that this trick does not work for me. Instead, if I can not count threads, I roll along the seamline with a copying wheel. I have several of them with differently sized teeth. The impressions stay for a while and mark my stitches.
Probably a lot of people do that but something that a sewing teacher in fashion school gave us as a "hack" is cut a piece of thick paper in the shape of the topstitching you want to make when it's in a rounded angle and then to place it right next to where the topstitching needs to be and sew around it, that's particularly useful to make symmetrical topstitching in collars and to make sure i always do it, doesn't take more than 2 minutes to make the paper and it's always nice to be sure the details are exact
I saw a tip from Liesl G that if you buy 2 spools of thread for a project and wind one completely onto bobbins (probably you would need 3 bobbins), you will run out of both top and bottom thread at the same time. as long as you don't use any for hand sewing.
every time I wind a bobbin I take one of those little hole reinforcer stickers and write the color number on it and stick it to the bobbin. I always refill it right away with the same color when I empty it. I'm a seamstress in a dry cleaner and this makes my life so much easier. I have at least 300 bobbins and I can always find what I'm looking for and change thread colors on my machine really fast. the other thing that helps me a lot is I made a nice tool belt out of black cordura fabric and nylon webbing. I keep 2 pairs of scissors, one small and one large, a seam ripper and a 6 inch ruler on me at all times. this way no matter which machine I'm using or if I'm in the fitting room or by the iron, I have my most used tools at hand whenever I need them. nothing worse than not having your detail scissors at hand when you need them
You know those 1/8-inch sheets of packing foam? They are so wonderful for tracing out pattern pieces! You can see right through them to copy every little mark, and they lay out so nice and flat on your fabric. Since so many of us are getting mail-order things nowadays, it's a great way to reuse packing materials.
Another tip. When you sew on labels, if they’re thick, run around the edge with the sewing machine ( with no cotton in) leaves a perfect row of holes and makes the job easier.
I found one on Cornelius Quiring's channel that just truly made sense to me: he was working with his fabric for a shirt, and instead of letting it get in the way at the sides of where he was sewing, he took and tightly rolled each piece of the front body and the back body, to where they were pinned together to be sewn. It created a long roll, but left his pinned edges perfectly available to be sewn.
Here is one for hand sewing... Next-care foam tape. Put it on your fingers that will be holding the needle. You can sew for a lot longer even on leather and it doesn't hurt your skin.
You can also use a folded paper. Tear a tiny piece or use a receipt and fold it few times until it becomes rock solid. It’s soft enough to grip the needle but thick enough to protect your finger.
After you run the thread through the beeswax, put it between some paper and iron it. This is most effective if you thread up several needles at once, wax them and then iron them. The wax absorbs into the thread and you have less flaking, the thread is stronger and it is easier to pull.
My tip for fusing tricky fabric is , cut the collar/ cuff out in fusing and lay the fusing onto the fabric, iron and cut. This works better than block fusing especially if you are short of fabric.
When stitching a gathered layer to another, such as joining a skirt to a bodice, lay a narrow strip of pattern tissue over your gathering and stitch through it. This prevents the presser foot from pushing and rearranging the gathers as you stitch. (It can be torn away afterwards)
I tend to baste them if they really need controlling for the same reason you use the pattern tissue (good re-use of waste pattern tissue too!) but regardless I always stitch with the gathers on top if I possibly can so that if anything wants to be wayward I can "groom" it before it goes under the presser foot.
A “truck” that really helped me is when threading a needle hand or machine is to wet the needle not the thread. A game changer! I lick my finger then run it on the needle.I have heard all of those but glad you reminded me! Thanks
A tip that I use quite a bit in hemming is washable school glue. I dap a very small amount along my hem edge and fold up the fabric to hem it then iron it to set the glue. This way you don't have to pin your fabric before you sew your hem. The school glue washes out with your first washing. I use this all the time to hem knits with my coverstitch machine. Just make sure the glue is completely dry before sewing it.
I'm a year late on this comment, but WOW. This is mind-blowingly simple and such a great idea! I'm going to use it. I also teach a crafts club at the middle school where I teach, and hand-sewing is one of the skills we learn; this would be a great hack for them, too!
I keep an old medicine bottle with a lid to drop small sharp items into. For example if I bend or break a needle on the machine or bend a pin and I need to throw those away, I drop them into the bottle. Then I'll throw the bottle away when it gets full.
OMgoodness! I can't believe I NEVER knew about Finished Garment size!!!!!!!!! I can't believe for all these years, I NEVER saw that before!!!!!!!!!!! How did I not see it before! Thank you so much!!!
An elderly friend of mine would thread several needles onto her thread spool and pull out a length of thread as needed. When she couldn't see well enough to do it anymore she would have her grandchildren do it for her.
@@Evelyn__Wood unfortunately my friend passed away several years ago. She was my grandmother's best friend. She was a very dear lady. She made her own dresses and she hand quilted quilts for customers.
For hand-sewing, my tip is to thread a bunch of needles with the thread(s) you'll be using, then stick them in the pin cushion, so I don't have to stop and re-thread my needle while I'm working.
Use a large zig zag stitch with piece of floss running through the center of it for gathering fabric. Especially nice on heavier fabrics cause floss is pretty dang strong.
I use a drawing compass to grade up a pattern or make seam allowances on a pattern. I used to take two pencils and put a rubber band on them, but it slips around too much. The drawing compass doesn't slip at all. You can put a small glass or plastic bead on the pointy end of the compass so you don't rip your pattern paper. Also, I use bar soap slivers to mark my fabric before cutting instead of chalk.
@@marshwetland3808 yes, just save the thin slivers of bar soap left from showers or washing hands. They work great! If they get too rounded, just wash your hands with them a few times and they are sharp around the edges again. It goes on easier than chalk. Test a small piece of fabric too make sure the green soap won't stain it if it's light colored fabric. I also use washable markers on some projects. It washes right out.
That is a great tip! I always thought that too about seeing the pencils rubber banded together that they would just move around too much, this is the perfect solution! 😃
I keep beeswax lip balm at my sewing area and then when I am trying to thread the machine I have it on and I run the thread through my lips and I can thread thing better. Especially good as my eyes are not as good as they used to be. Grin
Okay, I’m stealing that one! I’ve also heard of using spray starch for that, but don’t forget and lick your fingers afterward, blecch 😖 Ask me how I know this.
Great idea. I have to take the needle out of the machine, get my large magnifying glass/ light to thread the cotton. Very large hands, one eye and short temper. Thank you!!!
Oh and another tip, copy patterns on builders plastic. You can pin it, it doesn't tear, you can see the fabric well through to put designs well and you can write on it with Sharpies. Then you don't have to cut the patterns.
I didn't know about starching jersey, will file that one away for my next knit sewing. My tip is to thread a hand sewing needle before you cut the thread from the spool. This means you always have the thread twist facing the right way for sewing. A lot of tangles can be avoided by ensuring you thread from the leading end of the spool.
Your voice is clear and evenly paced, your instructions are straightforward along with your explanations, you are always cheerful and you are a delight to look at.
Love the spray starch, and thumb mark idea! My favorite trick of all time that I didn’t know for 50 years is that if you wet the needle instead of the thread , the thread will go right through the eye!!!!
Great tips!!! I have one for threading the needle on your sewing machine. Lick your index finger ( thumbprint side) touch it to the back of the eye of the needle, like MAGIC the thread goes right through the eye. I have an automatic needle threader on my machine but this is faster and less hassle then trying to get everything lined up while holding your breath hoping the automatic threading works!!
Here's another tip: After copying your pattern pieces onto heavier paper, place strategically located pairs of hole punches. Use a hole puncher that makes small diamond shapes thus afterwards you can pin in through the holes and out to save your pattern pieces from damage.
Saw a tip for pattern making on Tik Tok and just had to share, it was so simple and cheap. A 3/4 x 2" flat metal washer from the hardware store will give a 5/8" seam allowance. Place a pen on the outside edge of the washer hole and run the outside edge of the washer along a ruler or french curve. Buy the stainless, the zinc ones are jagged. Get some extras for weights. Can't go wrong at $0.66 each😂
This is definitely not a short cut..a long cut maybe but works better than having to tear out machine sewn seams over and over. If I ever have a seam that I think will be difficult to get right (always on set in sleeves and collars) I simply hand baste it first. It's holds in place so much better than any job of pinning would and pulls out easily afterward. When making fabric covered buttons, I also handstitch around the circle of fabric and gather the fabric up rather than trying to evenly tuck it into the back of the button. Another trick with covered buttons is to fuse a little lightweight interfacing onto the fabric before cutting the rounds...unless it is very substantial. Not only does the fabric stay nice and taut but you will never see the metallic glint from the button blank showing through.
I don't know if it is my pinning technique, but I get a much more accurate result when hand basting. The fabric shifts much lessand the end points of the seams end where I want them. With pinning the end points don't come together where they are supposed to.
My too is for "mature" eyes: if you are having trouble seeing the eye of your needle, place something WHITE behind it. It will show up much better. I also hate the term hack when used to mean tip. Say tip, if you mean tip.
That or I find my finger behind the hole on the machine needle helps better than the tiny white square the machine cones with probably because the angle to see the white square is not from where I sit.
Yes! I've been doing this for some time now. When I couldn't even get a needle threader into the eye of the needle I knew that I needed a better helper. The white paper strip behind the needle works every time as someone mentioned already. Every. Time. ❤
When I do not have enough fabric to block fuse, I cut the interfacing out, then fuse each individual piece to the fabric. It gives me similar results to block fusing, but is more flexible for fabric usage. A second trick is to cut the fabric and fusible interfacing out, then sew them together (right side of fabric to non-fusible side of interfacing) along the edge that would normally be serged. Once sew, you flip the pieces over to have the fusible side against the back side of the fabric and fuse. You get a wonderful neat finished edge!
Yes I've done that (I don't know who to credit for the tip). I was really impressed with the result. And don't forget to fuse after flipping it inside out (as you said). It takes a little concentration to make sure you sew them right sides together. You want the glue on the inside. You can also trim the seam allowances down a lot before flipping.
Appreciate your kindness showing me how to sew. I always wanted to sew.but never thought l was smart enough was scared .watching you makes me feel more comfortable.and love to learn. I'm 75 now but starting to enjoy making mug rugs and hot pads. Someday maybe clothes I'm still watching.
I love the spraystarch trick for knits. I knew the beeswax trick from my mum, who would be 100 years old now, so it’s an time-tested one. Another thing that I think many people don’t know, is when hand sewing, the “leading” end of the thread as it comes off the spool, is the end that should go through the eye of the needle, just as it does when threading your sewing machine. This helps immensely in stopping tangling ( thanks to alabama chanin for teaching me this).
Another tip: Remember when cutting out corduroy, velvet and velveteen, that you have a "nap" so you have to cut out everything right-side up when you layout your pattern.
@Snowchild Some fabrics that are "fuzzy" (such as corduroy or velvet) have a rough surface because during manufacturing, the pile (top or raised) of the fabric is shaved or sheared off, making the fabric look different when it is upside down than it looks right-side up.
When I prewash natural fabrics for garment making, I wash on the smallest load and add one cup of liquid starch to the final rinse. Iron dry or lay out flat and let air dry. Comes out pretty crisp.
my top tip, masking tape. masking tape or painters tape is universally useful in the sewing room, I always have at least one roll with me. good for marking rulers if you're cutting squares for quilting and cutting the same size every time, mark it on the ruler, or tape marking seam allowances on your machine, so useful!
I second that blue painters tape is useful in the sewing room! I use 2 strips of wide blue tape helps to cut glare from my bright sewing lamp. I sew mostly on an industrial machine set into a table so the lamp in question is a goose-neck fixture, *not* a built-in light. I will cut 2 strips about 10 to 12 inches long, and stick them, slightly overlapping along the long edges, to the left-hand side of my feed dogs, front to back. This cuts the glare from bouncing off the shiny metal throat plate cover and white table top. Saves my eyes! Although I started out using painters tape on my acrylic rulers, I was out of tape once and subbed a folded double layer of Saran Wrap (cling film for our friends in England). The Saran Wrap I had was *pink* . It is also available in green and blue around the holidays (Thanksgiving and Christmas). The great thing about using the plastic wrap is that it is infinitely repositionable (static, you know), you can still see the fabric through it, and there is no residue from being left on for long periods of time. The reason for the folded double layer is that by folding you get a straight edge, and of course the color is so light that, at least for the pink, I couldn't see it well unless doubled. I place it on the back side of my rulers. Hope this helps!
I had no idea there was finished garment info... Wow. I don't need to try to figure out how to cut multi-pattern sizes... It appears the "ease" will work... WHAT great info
Thanks for these tips. Here is one of my tips: If you are trying to sew clear vinyl and it sticks to the surface of your machine, you can put a piece of wax paper between the vinyl and the surface of your machine and it glides right through while sewing. After you finish sewing, very gently tear off the wax paper. Very helpful for those of us who do not have a "walking foot."
But still go carefully as it's still possible for the seam ripper to slip either under or over the pin and cut a long gash in your garment/project. At least it gave me the opportunity to test out the darning function on my machine and I was able to get a reel of thread that nearly matched the colour of my pyjama top.
Glued a magnet on the underside of a little bowl one of my children made. Keep it next to the machine during a project to keep the items such as sliding gauge, seam ripper, etc so won't have to repeatedly search for them. Have also done the same to a lonesome little pretty china dish for pins.
I saw a video about a hack that blew my mind the other day. Instead of ironing your bias tape in advance you just cut long rectangle strips. And you use a rectangle cut out from like a soda or beer can, that you stick to the top front of your machine. Then you fold the bias strip in there with the metal and it folds it as you go while you sew lmao I haven’t tried it yet but sounds nice cause some fabrics do not like a very hot iron (satin I’M TALKING TO YOU) and bias tape needs to be folded very well and you get a melted hell situation. Idk sounds very useful.
When you are using a fabric that is new to you try making a miniature out of scraps in doll clothes size to get an idea of how it acts when you sew it. You get experience in using the fabric and sewing technique and you get an outfit for your dolly.
I'm actually sewing clothes for my 16 inch doll to learn real tailoring. All the methods and materials are the same, the details are the same, and due to having to be careful, honestly the time needed is about the same as for full-sized garments. But, if I mess up, it's a few cents worth instead of a major investment blown.
Thank you for one of the best videos EVER…as much for your tips as the ones in the comments, my favorite of which was using the small tomato attached to the larger tomato pin cushion to sharpen pins and needles…who knew?!! I am a bridal gown designer, formerly an adjunct professor for apparel and tailoring type classes, and one of the tips my students really appreciated was when preparing the machine to gather, pull the needle thread way longer than the bobbin thread; gather always grabbing the longer needle thread, because bobbin thread typically has less tension so gathering is looser. At any time later there won’t be any confusion about which threads need to be pulled to avoid a traffic jam in the middle, because it is always the longer one. Another tip that has saved me: to help avoid tangling of thread during handwork (which is a lot of my work), I periodically twist the needle while I am sewing to counteract thread twist as well as my natural tendency to twist the needle as I sew. In just a few stitches, you’ll know which way you need to counter twist.
I usually do a hybrid of block and piece interfacing. First I draw the pattern piece on the interfacing and cut it out with a bit of a border. Then I fuse that to the fashion fabric and cut it out along the line I drew on the interfacing. Works like a charm and saves on material!
I learned a similar trick, I don't draw the pattern on the interfacing, but use the pattern piece pinned to the interfusing. I learned this when making memory bears from clothing of a loved one that has left us. This allowed the best use of sometimes limited cloth. - thanks.
Brilliant tips! I was refashioning a really fine jersey top a couple of months ago, and the neckband was curling beyond belief - driving me crazy! I suddenly thought about spray starch (the sewing gods were clearly whispering in my ear!) and dashed out to buy some. It really worked! The neckband went in beautifully and I was so grateful for that can of magic 😊 I haven't tried block fusing but I can totally see how that would help with those fiddly bits that never line up right... Thanks again, Evelyn, I have learned so much from your videos 🙏
@@marshwetland3808 I agree, I did that many years ago...but..I did it wrong, I’m sure..as it went OFF within a week. Possibly must use only distilled water (not tap water as I did then)...I get older and wiser I hope?
@@cc83jc85 Yes, it'll definitely go off. I'll use boiled filtered water and then keep it in the fridge. TheSpruce has a recipe and details - I linked it in another comment.
My mother taught me that when your thread knots, run your sewing needle along your scalp, the oil from your scalp lubricates the cotton as you do the next stitch
There was an article that I read years ago that said "grandma" would save the hair from her hair brush and make pin cushions to give to young brides. Same concept, the oils from the scalp would lubricate the needles and pins, plus back then needles and pins would rust, and the oils would slow the oxidation.
I knew all 5 of them, but I've been sewing for more than 60 years now. I use spray starch on rayon and other slippery fabrics too; if it's a fabric that sheer or thin or wiggly and can be washed, I do it (so long as it's a washable fabric!)
My grandmama, taught me to starch and iron all my fabric, use a pressing cloth always on knits. She taught me how to use bees whenever I was hand sewing. Remember to use beeswax especially when you are sewing on buttons or making handmade button holes.
I’d like to add to your tip on waxing thread that sewing thread has a nap and is meant to be used in the direction it comes off the spool. If only the short end of your threaded needle is against the nap there is less tangling and wear as you sew. In quilting the silicon or wax was used to strengthen and prevent wear.You can feel the smooth direction if you run it through your fingertips.
3 the ones I didn't know were spray starch on jersey- I make costumes so don't often use stretch fabrics- the other is using your left hand to measure stitches, I am pretty even these days because I'm very experienced, but I wish I had known that one 30 years ago! My top tip is when making gathers don't do 2 rows of stitches as patterns say- thread breaks are common especially if it's a long run of gathers or very full gathers. Take a piece of thin cord (I use a cop of crocheting cotton) and use the cording foot thread it through and zig zag over the cord along the gathering line. Gathers are far easier to draw up and control and if your thread runout you just carry on instead to pick it out and start again.
I've used table knives as pattern weights, they can be scooted to the edge of your pattern pieces when cutting out curly knits thus flattening the edges before cutting. However the spray starch idea sounds like a winner as well.
I cut out on the counter above the cutlery drawer so I’ve used all sorts as pattern weights but knives are the best. Although if I want some weight I use tins of tunafish lol
Canned food can be used as pattern weights. Just set your cans of green beans,corn or applesauce or whatever on your pattern to hold your pattern and fabric in place. You can also use light weight workout weights(1 or 2 lbs) in the same way.
I have done hand sewing and mending for years and already know the measurements I want by using the measurement between my index finger first knuckle and either the tip of the finger or the end of the nail. I adjust as needed. Of course I used a tape to check it out first and that saves much time and frustration. Also I can't always find affordable wax so I use a small bar of soap. It washes out well and slides well
First time I've heard of these tips. I struggled a lot in my sewing journey. Stopped sewing for over a decade but I am planning to start sewing again. I love the way you explain things.😊
I used block fusing recently (without realizing it was an actual thing) while making a knife-roll style pencil case for a friend out of some remnant fabric she picked out. The “fashion”/outward-facing fabric was extremely slippery and every time I tried measuring and marking the fabric it would just warp and distort. Finally decided to try fusing a big piece of interfacing on before just giving up altogether, and was pleasantly surprised that it made the job 1000000% easier!
I never thought to use starch on knits. That is brilliant.I figured out block facing on my own when I was a new sewist and I never dared to tell anyone that I did that because I thought I was cheating. Lol
I adore you! Thanks for all the sharing and teaching you provide I was a subscriber before and never missed a stitch. Then my tablet died and it took me a little over 1 year to save for one. You were my first subscription back.
I REALLY dislike the way the word “hack” has come to be used these days. In addition to the word having taken on a whole new meaning, it’s now being used to describe things that aren’t even “hacks”! Grrr! I’ve used the block fusing technique and find it helpful. I also often cut my interfacing pieces first, and then fuse them to the fabric before cutting the fabric. Since the interfacing tends to be more stable than wiggly or slippery fabric, this also produces a perfect match, without having to fuse large areas of fabric. It also allows me to exclude the interfacing from seam allowances, in situations where I’d like to do so.
Cut just the interfacing, place it like you would your pattern, and iron it on... was my tip! You don't usually need the whole block, it's kind of a best of both worlds thing.
What a great bunch of tips! Didn't know any of these and I have been sewing longer than you have been alive. My favorite new hack is my rotary cutter and cutting mat. I like that all your tips did not involve buying equipment. Thanks for being your beautiful self and making content that gets right to the point!
I love these videos with actually helpful information, but the best bonus is the amazing info that I get from the comment section. Thanks so much for sharing!
I use my stretched out arm to measure fabric or lace, if I don't have a ruler or tape measure handy. On me, when I stretch my right arm straight out to the side, the distance from my fingertips to the point of my left shoulder is exactly one yard. I used to frequent a fabric store that had mostly remnants of fabric in random sizes and sold them by the pound, and I never remembered my tape measure - this tip grew out of necessity. Lol
@@ladya1953 Thinking back, I saw my mother doing it when I was little. There used to be market stalls with remnants on, and she would do the measurements to work out if she could get dresses out of the pieces for my sister and I, and she was a great haggler!! I don’t think I ever saw her purchase fabric from a shop, except the gingham for my school dresses ( it had to be purchased from a certain shop and be precisely the correct colour). I remember her complaining about the price all the time she was sewing!!
A tip for sewing narrow (e.g. French) seams; particularly if you have a machine which lets you adjust the needle position; work out where you want the needle to be, then use the edge of the machine foot as your fabric guide. The markings on the needle plate don't usually go narrow enough.
Very nice. There’s just times my thread matches my fabric. So I always have five white, five black, and five for my project with whatever color I need. My machine was my Granny’s and she had tons of extra bobbins. I still have a lot with vintage thread on them too.
Im a very new at sewing. I know how to hand sew but its never good. The thumb trick is going to help me so so much. I feel very lucky for finding Evelyn’s channel so early in my sewing journey. Thank you so so much Evelyn.
Another tip I got for hand sewing is use the smallest needle you can work with. The smaller your needle, the easier it is to sew fine stitches. I've never thought I was any good at hand sewing. Didn't enjoy it and no matter how careful I tried to be, the stitches were too big, uneven and messy. Since coming across the tip about the smaller needles, and buying a pack of size 10s, I find I can sew invisible hems by hand with incredibly small stitches. And waxing the thread and ironing it to set the wax makes threading such small eyed needles an absolute doddle. And I've discovered the pleasure in hand finishing my sewing projects.
After I sew on a button, or bring home something with buttons, I put a drop of "fray check" on the thread inside the garment. Never lose a button. Also, for a light starch, I mix 1 part gin or vodka to 2 parts water in spray bottle.
What you do with startching spray on stretchy fabric I do with paper tape. You know, the one painters use to mask surfaces. When you are done with the seam, you simply tear off the tape.
I agree that these are not "hacks." A "hack" implies shoddy workmanship and the "I don't care" attitude. These are "pearls." Pearls of wisdom as we say in the medical field. (There is a textbook called STAT PEARLS). Thanks for this video. I have been sewing for 30 years and I still am learning!
Great to see these valuable tips. I really liked the thumb measure, great idea. For vegans, a soy candle works ok for detangling thread. A tip for knowing how much thread to measure for straight hand sewing, pull your thread along your piece of fabric, and add a third more in case you want to back stitch a couple of times. It's nicer to have about the right size thread rather than throwing away bits of left over thread all the time. When your thread is getting short, put your needle into the fabric as if you're sewing then thread the needle once it's in, that helps use up the very last bit of thread.
issue with that is long peices of thread tangle and is not good for posture. length of forearm is best, waste the thread and have nice wrists and no tangles, if i were to do as you sudgest i would have yards of thread to wrestle.
Thanks for the video. In addition to beeswax, you can also look at the twist direction of your yarn (clockwise or counterclockwise) and thread the needle accordingly. For the regularity of the stitches by hand, I use grids (millimeter tracing paper perced with a 2 mm punch) to place all the needle holes before sewing (FriXion pen to mark and hair dryer to erase). This allows me to make very advanced seams that are close to embroidery. This one comes from Natalie 'Alabama' Chanin. I highly recommend her book 'the Geometry of Hand-Sewing' to every hand sewing lovers ;-)
Washable seam tape for matching stripes. Saved me so much time. Also, I noticed on some sewing videos, people use a strip of slightly abrasive material like (sometimes it looks like boning or a textured zip tie) to help give forward tension on fabric as they guide a seam through the machine. I assume it acts almost like a walking foot if done right. That one has helped keep my seams lined up so there’s not extra millimeters on the top layer of fabric because of the uneven feed.
Love the starch idea. Yesterday I was cutting the neck binding for a t-shirt dress. The edge of the fabric had curled since starting the project weeks ago. I literally used the edge of a quilting roller and rotary cutter to cut off the curl instead of trying to mess with it. The ruler then held the fabric down flat while I measured a strip for the binding.
Another useful tip when hand sewing & trying to thread a needle is to moisten the hole in the needle in the same way we often moisten the end of the thread before attempting to guide it through the hole. The wicking draws the thread end towards the hole, making threading SO much easier. Game changer! Also, for different seam allowance widths I move my needle width, rather than trying to line my raw edge up with measurement markings. For example for a 1/4 inch seam allowance I change my stitch width to 5.5 (I have a Janome) and can then simply put my foot in line with the raw edge & be sure I am making a 1/4 inch seam. I use it for 1cm and 1/2" seams too, just adjust the width accordingly.
I have a lamp on the same table as my ironing machine. They are both plugged into the same power block, so when I flip the switch, the iron and the lamp are both on at the same time. This way I know the iron is on and hot if the lamp is on, and I'll never leave the room without switching it off. It's more of a safety hack, but it does work wonders, and it prevents undesired wear and tear on the cords and buttons.
I love the block fusing tip! I am always so ‘ cheap’ that I use the most of my fabric and always cut my pieces first. But from now on : I will be block fusing! Thanks for the tip!!
Not a hack, but, honestly, sewing and creative videos playing while working on my projects help me so 'sew' much (haa see what i did there) to keep going and to enjoy the process
I love finding videos on sewing. I am very visual learner and now older visually reading fine print on patterns is not as easy. Laptop/tablet I can enlarge print but better still I can do things step by step pausing video till I have completed each step rather than try to rely on memory and jump a step and stuff it entirely. I love seeing how others do things. You learn these trick as you watch one person on one kind of machine use a button that does a simple stay stitch. Ooooh, I have such a button but never took notice of what it was for, now I use it. I see how people cut out differently gadgets they use, method and tools they find fast and easy. I grew up in scissors only era so seeing how fast folk were cutting with a rotary cutter I switched over too.
Tips great tips or tricks of the trade 😊.Tried the bees wax today .Adding lace to a nightgown. I like doing it by hand no zigzag .Keep s my hands busy. Thank you for all you great advice .Your a doll 💗
I have to sincerely thank my great grandmother, and now my grandmothers caretaker, aka my chosen grandmother figure who is closer to my mums age but is someone I can actually talk to about every aspect of my life, LBGTQ included unlike my bio grandmother who I adore but is, to put it politely from a different age, for teaching me to sew with all of these skills!
my mother, taught me about the beeswax when I was young (year 1960's) but instead of bees wax we used candles, which is more readily available anywhere. she used to have a small piece of candel in her sewing box and she uses it to ease her hand sewing. Works really well.
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😀 Share your best 'hack' with us too!
✂️ For a sewing skill library and online resource guide at your finger tips, join me and a community of other like minded sewists at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/ as I would love to have you in class!
These are fabulous tips Evelyn - thank you! The only one I knew of was marking spaces on your thumb for hand sewing - and that I learnt from you through vintage sewing school 💚 Covid lockdown here in SA has given me the opportunity to catch up on most of your videos and keep up with sewing school viewing only because I am Into nearly 4 weeks post recovery from shoulder surgery with another 4 weeks to go before I can get back into sewing. The frustration is real!!! Hugs 🐾
My Favorite tip is to shine/Polish your sewing machine AND hand sewing NEEDLE with Steel Wool very fine. Then smooth with flannel if needed. The needles last forever. They are Very Very sharp!. and Glide through the Fabric sooooo nicely. If you can't find beeswax... Thread Magic is a really great product. Not all natural but very easy to use and doesn't dry out. Make sure you don't buy Beeswax from the Dollartree or very cheap from Hobby Lobby. You won't like it. You should be able to use your Thread Wax and the Magic Thread on YoYo's as well. Smooth action... Just like in your machine. This tells us that it works for other things as well. :D. Excellent sewing for everyone.
I love the way you talk and explain everything very clearly. Thanks for the videos ❤️.
⅕
@@deannastevens1217Very cool tip, I just started sewing and have just been using the universal one the machine came with. I've just reached the point where I'm going to be purchasing some so I can work with knits and denim, which makes me wonder....Do you basically never need to buy more than one of each needle type when using that method? And does it matter if they are the titanium coated needles vs the regular ones?
I'm thinking of you as you go through your treatments, Evelyn. Even though you aren't making new videos right now, you are being remembered with fondness. All the best for your great recovery!
And I’m rewatching your videos. Learning a number of things I missed the first time. You’re the best Evelyn! ❤️
My late mother, also named Evelyn, was an amazing seamstress. She taught me these tricks: use a bar of soap as your pin cushion - the soap coats the pins and helps them slide through fabric easier; if your needles or pins are dull you can run them through your hair and they'll sharpen right up - same for diaper pins, though not sure they get much use these days; use a piece of foam tape to mark your seam allowance on your machine - that way the fabric will bump up against it as it glides through the machine, as opposed to you having to make it line up with a drawn on line. She used to tape a paper lunch bag to the edge of her sewing table whenever she sewed for gathering up bits of thread, etc and other garbage. She always ironed her sewing patterns before and after using them, saying it made them easier to use and later to fold and store away. I could go on and on but already this is quite long. Thanks!
A thick rubber band over the sewing area of my machine acts as an easily-moved sewing guide. To pull up the bobbin thread easily I keep a bit of metal the size of a darning needle only blunt at each end, with a bit of coloured tape round it so I can stick it to my machine or locate it easily.
I’m going to use that paper bag idea! The threads and bits get everywhere atm!
@@LynneLaRochelle In my home-ec class (about 1963-4) My instructor recommended this, she also had us put one on our ironing board. It helps keep the sewing area tidy.
The little strawberry attached to the tomato pincusion is filled with emory to sharpen pins and needles, just a couple of stabs is all it takes. Keeping needles sharp and thread waxed makes it so much easier.
OhMyGosh! I have been sewing couture garments for decades - which means endless hours of hand sewing. I hate to think how many of my favorite hand sewing needles were discarded because I didn’t know this! Many thanks for the tip!
Omgggg!!! Thank you!
Wow I had no idea I thought that little thing was just decorative, thank you for telling me I'm going to go sharpen all my pins and needles now
I didn't know it was a strawberry I thought it was a little chilly pepper!!!! Lol
I’ve wondered what that was for!!
Starch is not just great for knits but also for slippery fabrics. It has saved me so much heartache when sewing with chiffon.
The same here. It’s great stuff.
Thank you for that info. I'm going to be sewing a lot of silk and can use this tip.
@@lydiahilovska9474 I've made a few shifts with 100% linen and a cotton/linen blend, it sewed much like cotton. The problem i had with linen was that it can fray a bit.
@@lydiahilovska9474 linen i find is pretty similar to work with as cotton. Like someone said before me already it does tend to fray a bit more and try to get the best linen you can afford. I cheapened out on my first try and it held together for only one summer before it literally tore in the wash.
YES!!! Thank you for making this comment I totally forgot to mention this in the video of course! Spray starch is like sewing magic and works for so many purposes!
I use a segments of rubber coated chain as fabric weights. It can twist and turn around any pattern shape and since it's coated, it doesn't slip or leave marks.
I have been sewing for 56 years and never heard (even my professional Mom) of marking your thumb to get consistent stitch lengths. Thank you, once again, for teaching an "old" sewer, something new.
My pleasure! I don't think that we ever stop of learning! I'm loving reading all the comments and extra tips from everybody here 😀
My grandmother used to use a fine comb held under her thumb on top of the material she was hand sewing when sewing long straight lines to make the stitches as even as possible. My Mom used to embroider a lot , and I mean a LOT. I still use some of her work as decoration around the house, call me old fashioned, but I love it. I noticed that after practicing hand stitches for a while , if I drew a thin line with washable marker on the garment, my stitches became so even they almost like machine stitches. Don't know how it happened, but just like magic, my eyes began to see exactly where to put the needle. Thanks for the great tips Evelyn. :)
I hold the fabric so differently that this trick does not work for me. Instead, if I can not count threads, I roll along the seamline with a copying wheel. I have several of them with differently sized teeth. The impressions stay for a while and mark my stitches.
The thumb marking was one of the first tips on equidistant stitching taught to me by a Portuguese family friend over 45 yrs ago.
Only about 30 for me, but I hadn't either! How simple and brilliant!
Probably a lot of people do that but something that a sewing teacher in fashion school gave us as a "hack" is cut a piece of thick paper in the shape of the topstitching you want to make when it's in a rounded angle and then to place it right next to where the topstitching needs to be and sew around it, that's particularly useful to make symmetrical topstitching in collars and to make sure i always do it, doesn't take more than 2 minutes to make the paper and it's always nice to be sure the details are exact
That's a great tip, thanks for passing it on!
Brilliant!!! Thank you for sharing that the really great tip!
What a great tip. Thank you for sharing. I will be using this in the future
Great idea! And if you make it out of freezer paper you could iron it directly where you want it before stitching!
Cool, cheers!!
I saw a tip from Liesl G that if you buy 2 spools of thread for a project and wind one completely onto bobbins (probably you would need 3 bobbins), you will run out of both top and bottom thread at the same time. as long as you don't use any for hand sewing.
This one is genius!
every time I wind a bobbin I take one of those little hole reinforcer stickers and write the color number on it and stick it to the bobbin. I always refill it right away with the same color when I empty it. I'm a seamstress in a dry cleaner and this makes my life so much easier. I have at least 300 bobbins and I can always find what I'm looking for and change thread colors on my machine really fast. the other thing that helps me a lot is I made a nice tool belt out of black cordura fabric and nylon webbing. I keep 2 pairs of scissors, one small and one large, a seam ripper and a 6 inch ruler on me at all times. this way no matter which machine I'm using or if I'm in the fitting room or by the iron, I have my most used tools at hand whenever I need them. nothing worse than not having your detail scissors at hand when you need them
You know those 1/8-inch sheets of packing foam? They are so wonderful for tracing out pattern pieces! You can see right through them to copy every little mark, and they lay out so nice and flat on your fabric. Since so many of us are getting mail-order things nowadays, it's a great way to reuse packing materials.
Another tip. When you sew on labels, if they’re thick, run around the edge with the sewing machine ( with no cotton in) leaves a perfect row of holes and makes the job easier.
Very smart idea!
I found one on Cornelius Quiring's channel that just truly made sense to me: he was working with his fabric for a shirt, and instead of letting it get in the way at the sides of where he was sewing, he took and tightly rolled each piece of the front body and the back body, to where they were pinned together to be sewn. It created a long roll, but left his pinned edges perfectly available to be sewn.
Here is one for hand sewing... Next-care foam tape. Put it on your fingers that will be holding the needle. You can sew for a lot longer even on leather and it doesn't hurt your skin.
You can also use a folded paper. Tear a tiny piece or use a receipt and fold it few times until it becomes rock solid. It’s soft enough to grip the needle but thick enough to protect your finger.
After you run the thread through the beeswax, put it between some paper and iron it. This is most effective if you thread up several needles at once, wax them and then iron them. The wax absorbs into the thread and you have less flaking, the thread is stronger and it is easier to pull.
Wow
Will it be waterrepellant as well then?
I wonder if people do this for fancy embroidery. I notice the thread looks firmer than when I do it and it looks kind of fluffy.
Brilliant thank you for sharing!! 😃
And the other bonus to ironing the thread once you've waxed it is that it becomes a doddle to thread even a size 10 needle.
My tip for fusing tricky fabric is , cut the collar/ cuff out in fusing and lay the fusing onto the fabric, iron and cut. This works better than block fusing especially if you are short of fabric.
When stitching a gathered layer to another, such as joining a skirt to a bodice, lay a narrow strip of pattern tissue over your gathering and stitch through it. This prevents the presser foot from pushing and rearranging the gathers as you stitch. (It can be torn away afterwards)
OMG I love this one! Been making Barbie skirts . What a pain! Thanks!
I tend to baste them if they really need controlling for the same reason you use the pattern tissue (good re-use of waste pattern tissue too!) but regardless I always stitch with the gathers on top if I possibly can so that if anything wants to be wayward I can "groom" it before it goes under the presser foot.
😊
A “truck” that really helped me is when threading a needle hand or machine is to wet the needle not the thread. A game changer! I lick my finger then run it on the needle.I have heard all of those but glad you reminded me! Thanks
I'll have to try that next time, thanks!
A tip that I use quite a bit in hemming is washable school glue. I dap a very small amount along my hem edge and fold up the fabric to hem it then iron it to set the glue. This way you don't have to pin your fabric before you sew your hem. The school glue washes out with your first washing. I use this all the time to hem knits with my coverstitch machine. Just make sure the glue is completely dry before sewing it.
There is also thread that vanishes in / with water. I do like the school glue idea! Thanks!
I'm a year late on this comment, but WOW. This is mind-blowingly simple and such a great idea! I'm going to use it. I also teach a crafts club at the middle school where I teach, and hand-sewing is one of the skills we learn; this would be a great hack for them, too!
A piece of foil crumpled up into a ball can be used to clean your pins and needles by stabbing the foil
I keep an old medicine bottle with a lid to drop small sharp items into. For example if I bend or break a needle on the machine or bend a pin and I need to throw those away, I drop them into the bottle. Then I'll throw the bottle away when it gets full.
86 years of age and been sewing from my teens but several tips were new many thanks
OMgoodness! I can't believe I NEVER knew about Finished Garment size!!!!!!!!! I can't believe for all these years, I NEVER saw that before!!!!!!!!!!! How did I not see it before! Thank you so much!!!
An elderly friend of mine would thread several needles onto her thread spool and pull out a length of thread as needed. When she couldn't see well enough to do it anymore she would have her grandchildren do it for her.
Brilliant!
Wow! This is a really fantastic idea for those with eyesight failing and find threading the needle difficult. A great job for the grandkids to do😅
@@Evelyn__Wood unfortunately my friend passed away several years ago. She was my grandmother's best friend. She was a very dear lady. She made her own dresses and she hand quilted quilts for customers.
Yes my mum would call us when we little to thread her sewing machine or needle.
I love this! My eyes aren't that great to begin with, so this is a winner!
A tailor taught me to always mark a cross with chalk on the wrong side of the fabric when you take the pattern pieces off after cutting out.
yep..great idea...esp. when wrong and right are so similar
I do this too! 😀
This is very smart!
I always do that too, Its so handy when you've got multiple pieces of fabric cut out !
For hand-sewing, my tip is to thread a bunch of needles with the thread(s) you'll be using, then stick them in the pin cushion, so I don't have to stop and re-thread my needle while I'm working.
Use a large zig zag stitch with piece of floss running through the center of it for gathering fabric. Especially nice on heavier fabrics cause floss is pretty dang strong.
I use a zig zag and sew over elastic thread, works like a charm.
I use a drawing compass to grade up a pattern or make seam allowances on a pattern. I used to take two pencils and put a rubber band on them, but it slips around too much. The drawing compass doesn't slip at all. You can put a small glass or plastic bead on the pointy end of the compass so you don't rip your pattern paper. Also, I use bar soap slivers to mark my fabric before cutting instead of chalk.
Bar soap bits as a marker chalk replacement? Gotta try that. I find the chalk hard to work with for some reason.
@@marshwetland3808 yes, just save the thin slivers of bar soap left from showers or washing hands. They work great! If they get too rounded, just wash your hands with them a few times and they are sharp around the edges again. It goes on easier than chalk. Test a small piece of fabric too make sure the green soap won't stain it if it's light colored fabric. I also use washable markers on some projects. It washes right out.
@@liz3684 Yeah, washable markers sound good for light coloured fabric. I should get some. I find the chalk just seems to fall out for some reason.
That's a Top Tip!!
That is a great tip! I always thought that too about seeing the pencils rubber banded together that they would just move around too much, this is the perfect solution! 😃
I keep beeswax lip balm at my sewing area and then when I am trying to thread the machine I have it on and I run the thread through my lips and I can thread thing better. Especially good as my eyes are not as good as they used to be. Grin
Okay, I’m stealing that one! I’ve also heard of using spray starch for that, but don’t forget and lick your fingers afterward, blecch 😖 Ask me how I know this.
As I’ve usually got a mouthful of pins, this sounds dicey! 🤣
Great idea. I have to take the needle out of the machine, get my large magnifying glass/ light to thread the cotton. Very large hands, one eye and short temper. Thank you!!!
I love this!!❤
,you made me lol! 😂😂😂💕🇹🇹
Oh and another tip, copy patterns on builders plastic. You can pin it, it doesn't tear, you can see the fabric well through to put designs well and you can write on it with Sharpies. Then you don't have to cut the patterns.
What is builder’s plastic? Is it those clear plastic drop-cloths one might use while painting walls/furniture?
@@aimee-made same question
I didn't know about starching jersey, will file that one away for my next knit sewing. My tip is to thread a hand sewing needle before you cut the thread from the spool. This means you always have the thread twist facing the right way for sewing. A lot of tangles can be avoided by ensuring you thread from the leading end of the spool.
Thread twist: completely new to me. 🙏🙏🙏
Your voice is clear and evenly paced, your instructions are straightforward along with your explanations, you are always cheerful and you are a delight to look at.
Love the spray starch, and thumb mark idea!
My favorite trick of all time that I didn’t know for 50 years is that if you wet the needle instead of the thread , the thread will go right through the eye!!!!
Great tips!!! I have one for threading the needle on your sewing machine. Lick your index finger ( thumbprint side) touch it to the back of the eye of the needle, like MAGIC the thread goes right through the eye. I have an automatic needle threader on my machine but this is faster and less hassle then trying to get everything lined up while holding your breath hoping the automatic threading works!!
Here's another tip:
After copying your pattern pieces onto heavier paper, place strategically located pairs of hole punches. Use a hole puncher that makes small diamond shapes thus afterwards you can pin in through the holes and out to save your pattern pieces from damage.
i just use notches.
@@furryfromfinley3602 the diamond shaped punched holes in pattern pieces are to preserve pattern while PINNING it to fabric.
Thank you! I will definitely do this. 😃
Saw a tip for pattern making on Tik Tok and just had to share, it was so simple and cheap. A 3/4 x 2" flat metal washer from the hardware store will give a 5/8" seam allowance. Place a pen on the outside edge of the washer hole and run the outside edge of the washer along a ruler or french curve. Buy the stainless, the zinc ones are jagged. Get some extras for weights. Can't go wrong at $0.66 each😂
This is definitely not a short cut..a long cut maybe but works better than having to tear out machine sewn seams over and over. If I ever have a seam that I think will be difficult to get right (always on set in sleeves and collars) I simply hand baste it first. It's holds in place so much better than any job of pinning would and pulls out easily afterward. When making fabric covered buttons, I also handstitch around the circle of fabric and gather the fabric up rather than trying to evenly tuck it into the back of the button. Another trick with covered buttons is to fuse a little lightweight interfacing onto the fabric before cutting the rounds...unless it is very substantial. Not only does the fabric stay nice and taut but you will never see the metallic glint from the button blank showing through.
My mother always hand basted seams before fitting.
Love this! I need to do 2 tops with 4 buttons each next week.
I don't know if it is my pinning technique, but I get a much more accurate result when hand basting. The fabric shifts much lessand the end points of the seams end where I want them. With pinning the end points don't come together where they are supposed to.
My too is for "mature" eyes: if you are having trouble seeing the eye of your needle, place something WHITE behind it. It will show up much better.
I also hate the term hack when used to mean tip. Say tip, if you mean tip.
Thank you. Just beginning to experience this. It how I knew it was time for an exam.
I've not long known this too and I con confirm it works every time x
That or I find my finger behind the hole on the machine needle helps better than the tiny white square the machine cones with probably because the angle to see the white square is not from where I sit.
I just put my fingertip beside the needle. It eliminates all the reflections.
Yes! I've been doing this for some time now. When I couldn't even get a needle threader into the eye of the needle I knew that I needed a better helper. The white paper strip behind the needle works every time as someone mentioned already. Every. Time. ❤
When I do not have enough fabric to block fuse, I cut the interfacing out, then fuse each individual piece to the fabric. It gives me similar results to block fusing, but is more flexible for fabric usage. A second trick is to cut the fabric and fusible interfacing out, then sew them together (right side of fabric to non-fusible side of interfacing) along the edge that would normally be serged. Once sew, you flip the pieces over to have the fusible side against the back side of the fabric and fuse. You get a wonderful neat finished edge!
Yes I've done that (I don't know who to credit for the tip). I was really impressed with the result. And don't forget to fuse after flipping it inside out (as you said). It takes a little concentration to make sure you sew them right sides together. You want the glue on the inside. You can also trim the seam allowances down a lot before flipping.
Appreciate your kindness showing me how to sew. I always wanted to sew.but never thought l was smart enough was scared .watching you makes me feel more comfortable.and love to learn. I'm 75 now but starting to enjoy making mug rugs and hot pads. Someday maybe clothes I'm still watching.
You’re never too old to learn new skills! You will be making clothes in no time. 😘
I love the spraystarch trick for knits. I knew the beeswax trick from my mum, who would be 100 years old now, so it’s an time-tested one. Another thing that I think many people don’t know, is when hand sewing, the “leading” end of the thread as it comes off the spool, is the end that should go through the eye of the needle, just as it does when threading your sewing machine. This helps immensely in stopping tangling ( thanks to alabama chanin for teaching me this).
Works with sizing, too and less chance of spoiling the color of your fabric than with starch.
Another tip: Remember when cutting out corduroy, velvet and velveteen, that you have a "nap" so you have to cut out everything right-side up when you layout your pattern.
also WEAR A MASK them fibers get right up in your sinuses and end up blowing out fiber for a week or two after finished
@Snowchild Some fabrics that are "fuzzy" (such as corduroy or velvet) have a rough surface because during manufacturing, the pile (top or raised) of the fabric is shaved or sheared off, making the fabric look different when it is upside down than it looks right-side up.
When I prewash natural fabrics for garment making, I wash on the smallest load and add one cup of liquid starch to the final rinse. Iron dry or lay out flat and let air dry. Comes out pretty crisp.
Awesome!
Genius
I'll definitely have to try this, thanks!
Used to do that for the pettycoats back when I was square dancing. It works great to keep that crispness of new.
great idea!
my top tip, masking tape. masking tape or painters tape is universally useful in the sewing room, I always have at least one roll with me. good for marking rulers if you're cutting squares for quilting and cutting the same size every time, mark it on the ruler, or tape marking seam allowances on your machine, so useful!
I second that blue painters tape is useful in the sewing room!
I use 2 strips of wide blue tape helps to cut glare from my bright sewing lamp. I sew mostly on an industrial machine set into a table so the lamp in question is a goose-neck fixture, *not* a built-in light. I will cut 2 strips about 10 to 12 inches long, and stick them, slightly overlapping along the long edges, to the left-hand side of my feed dogs, front to back. This cuts the glare from bouncing off the shiny metal throat plate cover and white table top. Saves my eyes!
Although I started out using painters tape on my acrylic rulers, I was out of tape once and subbed a folded double layer of Saran Wrap (cling film for our friends in England). The Saran Wrap I had was *pink* . It is also available in green and blue around the holidays (Thanksgiving and Christmas). The great thing about using the plastic wrap is that it is infinitely repositionable (static, you know), you can still see the fabric through it, and there is no residue from being left on for long periods of time. The reason for the folded double layer is that by folding you get a straight edge, and of course the color is so light that, at least for the pink, I couldn't see it well unless doubled. I place it on the back side of my rulers.
Hope this helps!
I had no idea there was finished garment info... Wow. I don't need to try to figure out how to cut multi-pattern sizes... It appears the "ease" will work... WHAT great info
Thanks for these tips. Here is one of my tips: If you are trying to sew clear vinyl and it sticks to the surface of your machine, you can put a piece of wax paper between the vinyl and the surface of your machine and it glides right through while sewing. After you finish sewing, very gently tear off the wax paper. Very helpful for those of us who do not have a "walking foot."
Thank you!!!
Silicone spray is good for things like that too....
I’ve found using a bowl with a towel over the top can of needed be used in place of the tailors ham! Also basting over pins for curves especially!
Towel on bowl...Good one
Tip:
Place a pin on the threadbar of a buttonhole on either sides, so you don’t cut past the pin and cut the threadbar 😃
Yes! My mum taught me that!
Wonderful tip. Thanks.
But still go carefully as it's still possible for the seam ripper to slip either under or over the pin and cut a long gash in your garment/project.
At least it gave me the opportunity to test out the darning function on my machine and I was able to get a reel of thread that nearly matched the colour of my pyjama top.
I never use a seam ripper for cotton buttonholes, only the ends of my tiny embroidery scissors. And I keep them sharp with my chefs steel.
Glued a magnet on the underside of a little bowl one of my children made. Keep it next to the machine during a project to keep the items such as sliding gauge, seam ripper, etc so won't have to repeatedly search for them. Have also done the same to a lonesome little pretty china dish for pins.
I saw a video about a hack that blew my mind the other day. Instead of ironing your bias tape in advance you just cut long rectangle strips. And you use a rectangle cut out from like a soda or beer can, that you stick to the top front of your machine. Then you fold the bias strip in there with the metal and it folds it as you go while you sew lmao I haven’t tried it yet but sounds nice cause some fabrics do not like a very hot iron (satin I’M TALKING TO YOU) and bias tape needs to be folded very well and you get a melted hell situation. Idk sounds very useful.
Yes i saw it and will try one day
When you are using a fabric that is new to you try making a miniature out of scraps in doll clothes size to get an idea of how it acts when you sew it. You get experience in using the fabric and sewing technique and you get an outfit for your dolly.
Now that’s novel!
One more reason to never stop owning a Barbie.
@@evepaludan7713 I have several Barbies.
I do that for zips. Then I decide which looks best, hand picked zip, invisible etc.
I'm actually sewing clothes for my 16 inch doll to learn real tailoring. All the methods and materials are the same, the details are the same, and due to having to be careful, honestly the time needed is about the same as for full-sized garments. But, if I mess up, it's a few cents worth instead of a major investment blown.
Threading a needle - if you moisten the eye of the needle, instead of the thread, you will be amazed at how much easier it is.
Thank you for one of the best videos EVER…as much for your tips as the ones in the comments, my favorite of which was using the small tomato attached to the larger tomato pin cushion to sharpen pins and needles…who knew?!! I am a bridal gown designer, formerly an adjunct professor for apparel and tailoring type classes, and one of the tips my students really appreciated was when preparing the machine to gather, pull the needle thread way longer than the bobbin thread; gather always grabbing the longer needle thread, because bobbin thread typically has less tension so gathering is looser. At any time later there won’t be any confusion about which threads need to be pulled to avoid a traffic jam in the middle, because it is always the longer one. Another tip that has saved me: to help avoid tangling of thread during handwork (which is a lot of my work), I periodically twist the needle while I am sewing to counteract thread twist as well as my natural tendency to twist the needle as I sew. In just a few stitches, you’ll know which way you need to counter twist.
I usually do a hybrid of block and piece interfacing. First I draw the pattern piece on the interfacing and cut it out with a bit of a border. Then I fuse that to the fashion fabric and cut it out along the line I drew on the interfacing. Works like a charm and saves on material!
Yes I do the same thing! Works great so far
That's so smart. Thank you for sharing.
I learned a similar trick, I don't draw the pattern on the interfacing, but use the pattern piece pinned to the interfusing. I learned this when making memory bears from clothing of a loved one that has left us. This allowed the best use of sometimes limited cloth. - thanks.
Yes, I tend to do this too, not as wasteful as pure block piece interfacing.
that's what I do too
Brilliant tips! I was refashioning a really fine jersey top a couple of months ago, and the neckband was curling beyond belief - driving me crazy! I suddenly thought about spray starch (the sewing gods were clearly whispering in my ear!) and dashed out to buy some. It really worked! The neckband went in beautifully and I was so grateful for that can of magic 😊 I haven't tried block fusing but I can totally see how that would help with those fiddly bits that never line up right... Thanks again, Evelyn, I have learned so much from your videos 🙏
I think you can also make your own spray starch with.... starch and water and a spray bottle. I forget the details, though.
@@marshwetland3808 I agree, I did that many years ago...but..I did it wrong, I’m sure..as it went OFF within a week. Possibly must use only distilled water (not tap water as I did then)...I get older and wiser I hope?
@@cc83jc85 Yes, it'll definitely go off. I'll use boiled filtered water and then keep it in the fridge. TheSpruce has a recipe and details - I linked it in another comment.
That’s awesome
My mother taught me that when your thread knots, run your sewing needle along your scalp, the oil from your scalp lubricates the cotton as you do the next stitch
That also works to make pins glide better especially safety pins when diapering…now I'm dating myself. LOL!
Makes sense, I always do this with my knitting needles 😅
There was an article that I read years ago that said "grandma" would save the hair from her hair brush and make pin cushions to give to young brides. Same concept, the oils from the scalp would lubricate the needles and pins, plus back then needles and pins would rust, and the oils would slow the oxidation.
Another great tip is to use Ban Roll,it is a narrow interfacing that you pull away after you hem a garment. Great for very narrow hems.
I knew all 5 of them, but I've been sewing for more than 60 years now. I use spray starch on rayon and other slippery fabrics too; if it's a fabric that sheer or thin or wiggly and can be washed, I do it (so long as it's a washable fabric!)
My grandmama, taught me to starch and iron all my fabric, use a pressing cloth always on knits. She taught me how to use bees whenever I was hand sewing. Remember to use beeswax especially when you are sewing on buttons or making handmade button holes.
I’d like to add to your tip on waxing thread that sewing thread has a nap and is meant to be used in the direction it comes off the spool. If only the short end of your threaded needle is against the nap there is less tangling and wear as you sew. In quilting the silicon or wax was used to strengthen and prevent wear.You can feel the smooth direction if you run it through your fingertips.
3 the ones I didn't know were spray starch on jersey- I make costumes so don't often use stretch fabrics- the other is using your left hand to measure stitches, I am pretty even these days because I'm very experienced, but I wish I had known that one 30 years ago!
My top tip is when making gathers don't do 2 rows of stitches as patterns say- thread breaks are common especially if it's a long run of gathers or very full gathers. Take a piece of thin cord (I use a cop of crocheting cotton) and use the cording foot thread it through and zig zag over the cord along the gathering line. Gathers are far easier to draw up and control and if your thread runout you just carry on instead to pick it out and start again.
I've used table knives as pattern weights, they can be scooted to the edge of your pattern pieces when cutting out curly knits thus flattening the edges before cutting. However the spray starch idea sounds like a winner as well.
I cut out on the counter above the cutlery drawer so I’ve used all sorts as pattern weights but knives are the best. Although if I want some weight I use tins of tunafish lol
Canned food can be used as pattern weights. Just set your cans of green beans,corn or applesauce or whatever on your pattern to hold your pattern and fabric in place. You can also use light weight workout weights(1 or 2 lbs) in the same way.
Hockey pucks work as weights!
When trying to find the eye of the needle when hand sewing spray some hairspray on the thread first. Makes it easier to pop through the whole
Will be trying this, I have such trouble threading needles. I usually put something white behind the needle which helps a bit.
I have done hand sewing and mending for years and already know the measurements I want by using the measurement between my index finger first knuckle and either the tip of the finger or the end of the nail. I adjust as needed. Of course I used a tape to check it out first and that saves much time and frustration. Also I can't always find affordable wax so I use a small bar of soap. It washes out well and slides well
A beeswax candle also works
Ivory soap
First time I've heard of these tips. I struggled a lot in my sewing journey. Stopped sewing for over a decade but I am planning to start sewing again. I love the way you explain things.😊
I used block fusing recently (without realizing it was an actual thing) while making a knife-roll style pencil case for a friend out of some remnant fabric she picked out. The “fashion”/outward-facing fabric was extremely slippery and every time I tried measuring and marking the fabric it would just warp and distort. Finally decided to try fusing a big piece of interfacing on before just giving up altogether, and was pleasantly surprised that it made the job 1000000% easier!
I never thought to use starch on knits. That is brilliant.I figured out block facing on my own when I was a new sewist and I never dared to tell anyone that I did that because I thought I was cheating. Lol
If no bees wax is to hand, lip balm in a stick works well. Just put some on you thumb and index finger then rub along the length of the thread.
Oh, Burt's Bees lip balm now has dual use!
make sure the lip balm is clear.
I adore you! Thanks for all the sharing and teaching you provide I was a subscriber before and never missed a stitch. Then my tablet died and it took me a little over 1 year to save for one. You were my first subscription back.
I REALLY dislike the way the word “hack” has come to be used these days. In addition to the word having taken on a whole new meaning, it’s now being used to describe things that aren’t even “hacks”! Grrr!
I’ve used the block fusing technique and find it helpful. I also often cut my interfacing pieces first, and then fuse them to the fabric before cutting the fabric. Since the interfacing tends to be more stable than wiggly or slippery fabric, this also produces a perfect match, without having to fuse large areas of fabric. It also allows me to exclude the interfacing from seam allowances, in situations where I’d like to do so.
Cut just the interfacing, place it like you would your pattern, and iron it on... was my tip! You don't usually need the whole block, it's kind of a best of both worlds thing.
What a great bunch of tips! Didn't know any of these and I have been sewing longer than you have been alive. My favorite new hack is my rotary cutter and cutting mat. I like that all your tips did not involve buying equipment. Thanks for being your beautiful self and making content that gets right to the point!
I love these videos with actually helpful information, but the best bonus is the amazing info that I get from the comment section. Thanks so much for sharing!
Wonderful tips and such gorgeous memories and funny quips of handed down information.
Such a lovely community ! Thankyou for being there .
💜Victoria
I use my stretched out arm to measure fabric or lace, if I don't have a ruler or tape measure handy. On me, when I stretch my right arm straight out to the side, the distance from my fingertips to the point of my left shoulder is exactly one yard. I used to frequent a fabric store that had mostly remnants of fabric in random sizes and sold them by the pound, and I never remembered my tape measure - this tip grew out of necessity. Lol
On me its the same except that I have to turn my head away and its the distance to the end of my nose!! Obviously I’ve got shorter arms than you lol
@@m1m5yp28 LOL Me too! I thought I was alone in this!
@@ladya1953 Thinking back, I saw my mother doing it when I was little. There used to be market stalls with remnants on, and she would do the measurements to work out if she could get dresses out of the pieces for my sister and I, and she was a great haggler!! I don’t think I ever saw her purchase fabric from a shop, except the gingham for my school dresses ( it had to be purchased from a certain shop and be precisely the correct colour). I remember her complaining about the price all the time she was sewing!!
@@m1m5yp28 Ahhh. Great memories. 😊
My mother did that all time except tilting head to the side and fabric touching her nose lol that would be a correct one meter of fabric
A tip for sewing narrow (e.g. French) seams; particularly if you have a machine which lets you adjust the needle position; work out where you want the needle to be, then use the edge of the machine foot as your fabric guide. The markings on the needle plate don't usually go narrow enough.
These are more than just life hacks: they're life savers. You're a legend.
Wind several bobbins before starting a project.
I actually wind up like 10 white and 10 black at a time.
Very nice. There’s just times my thread matches my fabric. So I always have five white, five black, and five for my project with whatever color I need. My machine was my Granny’s and she had tons of extra bobbins. I still have a lot with vintage thread on them too.
Almost ANYTHING you show us is valuable. I have been learning how to sew at a much better level. Thank-you!!!!
Im a very new at sewing. I know how to hand sew but its never good. The thumb trick is going to help me so so much. I feel very lucky for finding Evelyn’s channel so early in my sewing journey. Thank you so so much Evelyn.
My pleasure!
Another tip I got for hand sewing is use the smallest needle you can work with. The smaller your needle, the easier it is to sew fine stitches. I've never thought I was any good at hand sewing. Didn't enjoy it and no matter how careful I tried to be, the stitches were too big, uneven and messy. Since coming across the tip about the smaller needles, and buying a pack of size 10s, I find I can sew invisible hems by hand with incredibly small stitches. And waxing the thread and ironing it to set the wax makes threading such small eyed needles an absolute doddle.
And I've discovered the pleasure in hand finishing my sewing projects.
After I sew on a button, or bring home something with buttons, I put a drop of "fray check" on the thread inside the garment. Never lose a button. Also, for a light starch, I mix 1 part gin or vodka to 2 parts water in spray bottle.
OMG! I've been sewing for 50 years, the beeswax tip was the only one I knew about. Thanks for a great video.
What you do with startching spray on stretchy fabric I do with paper tape. You know, the one painters use to mask surfaces. When you are done with the seam, you simply tear off the tape.
I agree that these are not "hacks." A "hack" implies shoddy workmanship and the "I don't care" attitude. These are "pearls." Pearls of wisdom as we say in the medical field. (There is a textbook called STAT PEARLS).
Thanks for this video. I have been sewing for 30 years and I still am learning!
Great to see these valuable tips. I really liked the thumb measure, great idea. For vegans, a soy candle works ok for detangling thread. A tip for knowing how much thread to measure for straight hand sewing, pull your thread along your piece of fabric, and add a third more in case you want to back stitch a couple of times. It's nicer to have about the right size thread rather than throwing away bits of left over thread all the time. When your thread is getting short, put your needle into the fabric as if you're sewing then thread the needle once it's in, that helps use up the very last bit of thread.
issue with that is long peices of thread tangle and is not good for posture. length of forearm is best, waste the thread and have nice wrists and no tangles, if i were to do as you sudgest i would have yards of thread to wrestle.
Thanks for the video. In addition to beeswax, you can also look at the twist direction of your yarn (clockwise or counterclockwise) and thread the needle accordingly. For the regularity of the stitches by hand, I use grids (millimeter tracing paper perced with a 2 mm punch) to place all the needle holes before sewing (FriXion pen to mark and hair dryer to erase). This allows me to make very advanced seams that are close to embroidery. This one comes from Natalie 'Alabama' Chanin. I highly recommend her book 'the Geometry of Hand-Sewing' to every hand sewing lovers ;-)
I don't have a 2 mm punch, but I have pierced holes by using a thicker needle (darning needle?) I agree about the Natalie Chanin book.
The one hand sewing with marks on finger is brilliant!
Washable seam tape for matching stripes. Saved me so much time.
Also, I noticed on some sewing videos, people use a strip of slightly abrasive material like (sometimes it looks like boning or a textured zip tie) to help give forward tension on fabric as they guide a seam through the machine. I assume it acts almost like a walking foot if done right. That one has helped keep my seams lined up so there’s not extra millimeters on the top layer of fabric because of the uneven feed.
Love the starch idea. Yesterday I was cutting the neck binding for a t-shirt dress. The edge of the fabric had curled since starting the project weeks ago. I literally used the edge of a quilting roller and rotary cutter to cut off the curl instead of trying to mess with it. The ruler then held the fabric down flat while I measured a strip for the binding.
Another useful tip when hand sewing & trying to thread a needle is to moisten the hole in the needle in the same way we often moisten the end of the thread before attempting to guide it through the hole. The wicking draws the thread end towards the hole, making threading SO much easier. Game changer!
Also, for different seam allowance widths I move my needle width, rather than trying to line my raw edge up with measurement markings. For example for a 1/4 inch seam allowance I change my stitch width to 5.5 (I have a Janome) and can then simply put my foot in line with the raw edge & be sure I am making a 1/4 inch seam. I use it for 1cm and 1/2" seams too, just adjust the width accordingly.
Didn’t believe you ( lol) so had to go and try ‘moisten the needle hole too’ it works. Thanks for that.
@@m1m5yp28 I KNOW!! Hard to believe but it is such a good thing! 😀
The thumb-ruler is an adorable and great idea. Thank you for helping the rest of us look polished. Your joy is greatly appreciated.💖
Love the spray starch and the interfacing ideas. Thanks to your viewers too for their ideas.
Thank you. I've been sewing over 50 years, and you just taught me new things. I so appreciate you! ❤
I have a lamp on the same table as my ironing machine. They are both plugged into the same power block, so when I flip the switch, the iron and the lamp are both on at the same time. This way I know the iron is on and hot if the lamp is on, and I'll never leave the room without switching it off. It's more of a safety hack, but it does work wonders, and it prevents undesired wear and tear on the cords and buttons.
I'm a court reporter, a wordsmith. And "hack" as used today gets on my very last nerve. Tips is the better word, just as you said.
I love the block fusing tip! I am always so ‘ cheap’ that I use the most of my fabric and always cut my pieces first. But from now on : I will be block fusing! Thanks for the tip!!
Not a hack, but, honestly, sewing and creative videos playing while working on my projects help me so 'sew' much (haa see what i did there) to keep going and to enjoy the process
I love finding videos on sewing. I am very visual learner and now older visually reading fine print on patterns is not as easy. Laptop/tablet I can enlarge print but better still I can do things step by step pausing video till I have completed each step rather than try to rely on memory and jump a step and stuff it entirely.
I love seeing how others do things.
You learn these trick as you watch one person on one kind of machine use a button that does a simple stay stitch. Ooooh, I have such a button but never took notice of what it was for, now I use it.
I see how people cut out differently gadgets they use, method and tools they find fast and easy.
I grew up in scissors only era so seeing how fast folk were cutting with a rotary cutter I switched over too.
I love the block interfacing idea. I use beeswax for hand sewing/quilting.
Tips great tips or tricks of the trade 😊.Tried the bees wax today .Adding lace to a nightgown. I like doing it by hand no zigzag .Keep s my hands busy. Thank you for all you great advice .Your a doll 💗
Omg the concept of block fusing just changed my life 🤯
I have to sincerely thank my great grandmother, and now my grandmothers caretaker, aka my chosen grandmother figure who is closer to my mums age but is someone I can actually talk to about every aspect of my life, LBGTQ included unlike my bio grandmother who I adore but is, to put it politely from a different age, for teaching me to sew with all of these skills!
my mother, taught me about the beeswax when I was young (year 1960's) but instead of bees wax we used candles, which is more readily available anywhere. she used to have a small piece of candel in her sewing box and she uses it to ease her hand sewing. Works really well.
Didn't know: 1, 2, 4, 5,
Did know: 3 (after a drowning in ease disaster)
Thank you for the helpful tips!