Many people have asked about the laptop, so I added a link in the description. Be aware that the computer market changes rapidly, so the link will probably age like milk. The particular model I bought is an ASUS ProArt StudioBook with an Intel Core i9-13980HX (13th Gen) and RTX 4060.
@@Clough42 sorry, yes. The old E580 was with Radeon. And it could run the EinScan HX which is more demanding device. I now have LENOVO ThinkBook 16P R7-5800H/16WQXGA/16GB/512SSD/RTX3060/10P and this can easily run Einstar, EinScan HX and somewhat Autoscan Combo. We got these laptops for ~1200€.
INteresting. Following Shining 3D's advice, I had to upgrade my powerful PC Ryzen-based configuration just because my Radeon graphics card has not CUDA technology (what's pretty specific to NVIDIA)... an unexpected expense. Of course I also switched to an Intel processor just to fit the software requirements as much as possible... Sigh... But all in all I'm happy for the smooth operation that the new hardware gives.
Massive over complication is what makes home engineering fun. In my professional endeavors, over complication gets me in big trouble. At home.....it brings pure joy.
The connectors are Lemo and are made in Switzerland. The are used extensively in the Film industry. They are also some of the most expensive connectors made anywhere, but also are some of the most pleasing functionally.
I've tinkered a little with trying to get objects scanned and usable inside of Fusion. None of those projects were a "necessity" - so I tinkered, hit a wall, shelved it, and moved on to something that required less skill investment. When I saw your video title, I opened it, quickly hit pause, grabbed some pizza, sat down and hit play. 25 minutes later and I've solidly resigned myself to the fact that 3D scanning just yet hasn't really "arrived" for this kind of task. Your project was a great test of the state of scanning tech. Even after some rehearsal and practice at that process, I really doubt you could design that using that 3D scanner faster than using a set of calipers and a scratchpad to collect enough data to build out the working surfaces and objects manually in fusion.
I was so grateful, in the end, that I was able to put my credit card back and cancel my new computer. Once you were finished, I figured I could do this w/o any new toys. BUT, even if I don’t need or will never do what I see you do, I always learn and am always able to apply something to my tinkering. Thanks and God bless!
I love it. Great video on the 3D scanning, but probably your most over the top engineering and modeling for something that would take about 5 minutes with your calipers!
I have this scanner!! It's great. I found most problems associated with getting started with this scanner are due to user error. But there are so many resources online, on Facebook, and here on TH-cam that its easy to find help to figure out what your doing wrong. Thats what makes this particular scanner great (along with the fabulous software). The downside is that it is very heavily demanding on your computer. If you don't already have a powerful PC or Laptop you can expect to pay around $2K or more for one that is good enough for this piece of equipment. So those of you who consider buying this need to include that into your expected cost. I've also found that scanning in the dark helps with small items, as the scanner has its own lights that focus on the cameras focal point. At first I was considering buying LED lights to make things easier to see, but now I just turn off all the lights in the room and begin my scan :).
I wish to complement you on the quality of your video production. If you take requests, I would like to see a short rundown of your production procedure. I'm new to this and know that I, and others, struggle with the details of making a quality presentation. My interest is your workflow, from idea to filming and narration, not about gear and lighting. You have obviously made an extended effort, and it shines brilliantly in your videos.
Directly because of you my new Einstar arrived today. Until I saw this video I hadn't realized that its' better to think of the scanner as a "measuring" tool and not a "modeling" tool - the goal isn't usually to scan something, directly convert that scan data to a solid model and then work with it from there. Instead you are scanning something and then measuring/referencing from that data to model the thing you need. That insight really cleared up a lot for me, thanks. One stupid thing I've noticed so far is that Shining 3D recommends using only their original scan markers, but so far I haven't found that they actually sell them, in fact there aren't a lot of sources for them. There's also no indication that the glass calibration plate is available in case you dropped one. I'm hoping that both of these items are in fact easy to buy if you need them.
Around 0.1-0.2mm for a 10x10cm part. That’s why I bought a Shining SP in the end. But I probably will buy this scanner again sometime in the future. For big scans like this the scanner is the best you can get for under 5k.
James, you have so much knowledge and skill in so many areas, it never ceases to amaze with the content you share! Thanks for another ACTUALLY helpful, and EXPERTLY explained project. Still cracks me up how strangely relevant the videos you share are to the things I'm already working on/with in my shop! Specifically "open source photogrammetry" this time...I just don't want to pay that much for a scanner yet...but, now you've once more shown me there is " James - Justification " for this purchase! (It's what I tell the wife now to further justify a purchase when you review or use a new shiny tool I decided I can't live without! It's saved me hours of trying to explain these tool's purpose already!)
How accurate is the scan with respect to dimensions? Can you calibrate the scanner with some known object like a 123 block? Have you tried scanning a known size reference object and checking the error?
The scanner will give an approximation of the error in scan interpolation - Like anything there is a sliding scale where as you scan larger items you must learn to accept some error But in general from past experience on something like a car bumper you can expect anywhere from 0.7mm to 1.2 mm depending on your tollerance for tedium, on smaller parts like the focussed area of the apron here you can get down to 0.1mm to 0.4mm depending on your prep work The key think is having enough reference point for it to keep thinks coplanar and rotationally locked - if doing a larger relatively flat piece it can be worth while to attach some neodynium magnet or lumps of blue tack as additional references during the scan
My Grizzly G0709 lathe uses the same factory setup for the carriage lock. Lacking a 3d scanner I just replaced the hex socket screw with a Kipp adjustable handle and a flat thrust washer. This allows a positive quarter-turn (or less) locking action and is still adjustable for wear. It’s effective but clearly not as video-worthy.
Love this!! I just bought that scanner and a 3d printer.. Guy in snapmaker group recommended watching you to learn CAD. but my scanner and machine shop!! I"m home ;) thanks for posting.
you can actually select the points in the scan data in fusion, you just have to right click the top level tree and "do not capture history data" after that you can select the individual vertices on the mesh. for whateve reasons. I use this to add construction planes based on the model to align it, but your tip about doing it in the scanning software was so much better, kudos for that!
Never really though about the carriage lock, when I first used it I just chucked an allen key in it and have just never taken it out. I got really lucky with the thread index, 90 deg goes from full unlock to full lock, only problem is when it drifts backwards and gets between the tailstock stopping me from locking it. Need to remember this for when I pimp my lathe.
Another very good explanation, Thanks for sharing it. It is all beyond what I'll ever do but I enjoyed watching anyway. One suggestion of little value would be to add 6 or 8 holes in the edge of the knob for a tommy bar in case things ever get stuck or if they were threaded maybe a 1/4 turn lever. Thanks again.
feeding the drill with the carriage is nice, Used to use a big 23/32 trough coolant drill that i had to feed 7 inches. It be cool if there was some easy way to latch on a move the tailstock with the carriage for drilling, and then be able disconnect and go on... Hmmm. Great vid.
I've seen this done with a drag link. Your tailstock would need to be able to move smoothly while also being held down so it doesn't lift under pressure.
Hey there james, I had this lathe years ago and i noticed the underside of the ways are not very parallel with the top surfaces. This would maniest itself as locking of the tailstock when sliding it after an unlock (along the way it would bind). Or differential pressure on the locking screw like in your case. I think the best thing to do here is to make a sled that fits on the ways and attach a grinder and regrind the underside. But first inspect the bototm surfaces' coplanarity to the top surfaces.
For much larger, 150-ton ship structural units, we glued small targets (reflective disks) on the units for establishing datum points. This lets you come back and re-establish coordinates. It also helps to ensure measurements remain consistent.
Awesome, pretty helpful and so instructive. Thanks a lot! That workflow from scanning section to Fusion360 modelling, is simply put, a great pedagogy - the best IMHO regarding the ton of tutorials on einstar 3D scanner I've been through. I might have said that in more than one of videos of yours, excuse me, but I can't help praising your work and your sense of sharing knowledge and skills. Again, thank you very much!from Strasbourg, France.
Love it, love it, showing how to take the scan and then use it in fusion is great. The silver connector is made by Lemo just in case some need to know.
Excited to watch! FYI, I haven't been getting weekly notifications for your videos and I'm excited for the backlog but sad that you're possibly not getting views
Was this sponsored? This is the 3rd video I've seen posted in a day about this EXACT scanner, seems very coincidental that you happened to buy one and drop it right at the same time. If you did, fair play, if not then I can say for this guy, I prefer to have freebies and other stuff mentioned clearly (or mention that you bought it with your own money very clearly). I know it's a pain, but there's so much shilling out here that the clarity is helpful in evaluating what I'm being told. Love the videos.
Nope. I paid cash for everything in this video except the collet holder on the lathe, which I mentioned. I think the reason you're seeing this scanner everywhere is that they finally broke the $1000 barrier and many people like myself have been lurking and waiting.
Using a pin that fits well in the hole with matte finish makes a world of difference for the accuracy instead of trying to scan a hole. Also, if scanning anything bigger, always use reference markers and scales. Worked with a GOM, atos tripple scan for years.
Even if do definitely do not need the scanner for this, it is even more complicated to use, you mad a nice tutorial. On other surfaces or objects, which are not as symmetrical you need a scanner .
That einstar 3d scanner is pretty sweet. You'll be doing some next level prototyping with it versus someone who has to guesstimate with their eyes like me!
My first thought when seeing over complicated devices or products is, “How can I simplify this so that I can reduce costs and use it in my shop?” Then, after carefully studying the design I almost always learn something new and valuable.
What a nice project. I’ve also been looking at einstar for a while but I’m slowly moving to Mac based ecosystem so that’s been holding me back. Hey what’s the laptop model you bought ?
I also do whatever Matt Brown says but this time I had the Einstar before him. I also have the Revopoint Mini, Pop 2, Range and a pre-order on the Pop 3. I also have the Mole. For the kind of stuff we do, I find myself gravitating towards the Range. It gives great quality and the ability to do mobile scanning on my phone then upload to the PC for processing beats lugging my laptop out to the shop. If you get a chance, try the Range. 👍
i'm a bit disappointed you didnt etch the top of the knob... also...boys with their toys...now i want a 3d scanner....also idly wondering if an xbox kinect still would hold up for homebrew scanning...
Hey James, I was going to purchase a 3D scanner this week for work, but I never considered the Einstar. Did you weigh the options between the Einstar and the Revopoint Range? Now I'm thinking twice about which one I need. I'll be scanning large equipment and occasionally smaller things too
Hello Sorry for my English, I’m French. On fusion360, you can create projection on one plan for draw automatically all lines on this plan. Thanks for your videos 👍🏼
The reason for the sponpyness is likely that the tab on the bottom has to close down and engage on both the front and rear of it - If you add a small spring in back of the tab, ideally countersunk inside it so that it is pushed to pivot you will feel an immediate improvement in that slop for only a 20 minute job
That scanner is way cool. But things sure seem to get klutzy after going into F360. Isn't there a way to just convert mesh into surfaces, and add some enclosing surfaces to create a solid?
@@Clough42 Yikes. I guess reverse engineering isn't as far along as I thought. At 7:40 you say you're not trying to make a watertight model, which would obviously be impractical given the size and complexity of your lathe. But if a part were small enough that it would, does that change the situation, i.e. does a watertight model lend itself to conversion to a solid more easily?
Is this purely a camera-based scanner or does it also have lidar? I'm also wondering if you have used cell-phone based photogrammetry before? Especially the ones that supplement it with lidar on the most recent iPhones (not sure about android)? I'm wondering how that compares to this sort of dedicated scanner.
For once I got something before you did! I have the same scanner that I bought couple of months ago. Pretty cool stuff. I used it to scan a complex 3d geometry of an A/C bracket and pulley on my car to be able to remove the A/C compressor. I need the space for turbo things and it saves some weight... I guess I could have measured it, but it's on multiple levels and angles... For other looking at the comments, you need an Nvidia card because the software uses Cuda. The more Cuda power you get the better it is. It just doesn't work well with ATI/AMD.
What's the recommended distance on that 3D scanner? It seems to have an unusually large distance between the stereo cameras for close up work, maybe it's using macro lenses or something. Seems like something that could be fun to get.
Thanks for the video. What kind of detail do you think you can get out of it on small items? I've been wanting to enlarge a 1/48 scale model and make a 1/32 or 1/35, but I don't know if it would work.
You might want to put a set screw the clampdown on the top of the bolt actually you might spend or press out from the head of a bolt. Great project I would probably use the scanner for something else lol
It’s not scan accuracy, it’s just what is the smallest detail you have. For this part, you could have selected 1.0. With lower setting, the scanning is much faster and you can scan from greater distance.
Hi James, I'm getting on in years so maybe this is me but the interface into Fusion 360 strikes me as a 'work in progress'. It seems quite a few steps are required to get from a 3D image to a 3D model - apologies if my terminology is wrong. Do you see this becoming more of a 'one click' operation or is the decision making process required too complex for that?
I notice that it doesn't supply measurements with the 3d images and yes I can design what he wants just by measuring the limited area and plug into AutoCAD. Better yet why not just redesign the apron area of the lathe and just put in electrically-operated solenoids which lock any movement. Also, boot them into your CAM programming so, while you are heavy turning a part, the solenoids automatically engage the locking mechanism on the apron making your machining very rigid.
They call it the "ASUS Dial." It turns and clicks. By default, it just adjusts the screen brightness and volume, but it can be set up to do other stuff in other apps.
A spring loaded captive lever that you could pull up to get more quarter turns would have been a simpler but obviously less fun way to go about solving this 😅
@@Clough42 I didn't know kip handles existed that's cool. I made the assumption you only needed maybe half or one full turn, but maybe not and maybe it would be dreadful 😅
bringing the .obj file into fusion really made it look like some sort of foliage rendering.. kinda looks cool though ....lmao at total disregard for the instruction manual and mocking the manufacturer for including it :) Very cool new --toy-- tool
Yea, all this 3d scanning is fun and all... But in most applications it's way to much, and can complicate things more than it helps. Clippers, a ruler and a micrometer is all you need for 99% of all your reverse engineering. I regularly come across the original design of parts by accident. You measure the coarse dimensions, put it in cad and do some assumptions like rounding the dimensions and some radii and boom! You see how they designed that part! 😮 Getting data back of a 3d scann, can be way more difficult than looking at a part and take some messurements, because taking a messurement in a scann can be more challenging then in the physical world! But... It always depends!
if you are using the paid version of fusion 360 you can convert the mesh data to a prismatic model, might be fun to experiment with the point cloud mesh scan data and see how accurate it comes out for future projects so that you don't have to recreate the geometry....if you aren't using the paid version then nevermind, they just tease ya with it lol
@@Clough42 Hey James, I'm on a student license, so it may well be different for you. For me 'Convert Mesh' is an option under the 'modify' section of the mesh work panel. It shows up between the Appearance and Remove commands. Hope that helped, I always appreciate the little Fusion tips and look forward to your videos. Cheers!
Many people have asked about the laptop, so I added a link in the description. Be aware that the computer market changes rapidly, so the link will probably age like milk. The particular model I bought is an ASUS ProArt StudioBook with an Intel Core i9-13980HX (13th Gen) and RTX 4060.
You can easily run this scanner with something like Lenovo E580 and 3060.
You're running an RTX 3060 in an E580? With this scanner? You're talking about the E580 with Radeon graphics from 2017, right?
@@Clough42 sorry, yes. The old E580 was with Radeon. And it could run the EinScan HX which is more demanding device. I now have LENOVO ThinkBook 16P R7-5800H/16WQXGA/16GB/512SSD/RTX3060/10P and this can easily run Einstar, EinScan HX and somewhat Autoscan Combo. We got these laptops for ~1200€.
@@testi2025 interesting. They're very clear about the software requiring an Nvidia GPU with a minimum number of cuda cores.
INteresting. Following Shining 3D's advice, I had to upgrade my powerful PC Ryzen-based configuration just because my Radeon graphics card has not CUDA technology (what's pretty specific to NVIDIA)... an unexpected expense. Of course I also switched to an Intel processor just to fit the software requirements as much as possible... Sigh... But all in all I'm happy for the smooth operation that the new hardware gives.
Massive over complication is what makes home engineering fun. In my professional endeavors, over complication gets me in big trouble. At home.....it brings pure joy.
exactly my first thoughts
And you can learn a lot
Agree and as others say, allows you to learn a lot of new things. So fun all around
🍻
The connectors are Lemo and are made in Switzerland. The are used extensively in the Film industry. They are also some of the most expensive connectors made anywhere, but also are some of the most pleasing functionally.
"All hail the algorithm" Two of my favorite enginerding channels on YT. I'm sure Superfast Matt appreciated the shoutout, James!
I warned him in advance. :)
This is hands down the most informative channel on youtube.
I've tinkered a little with trying to get objects scanned and usable inside of Fusion. None of those projects were a "necessity" - so I tinkered, hit a wall, shelved it, and moved on to something that required less skill investment. When I saw your video title, I opened it, quickly hit pause, grabbed some pizza, sat down and hit play. 25 minutes later and I've solidly resigned myself to the fact that 3D scanning just yet hasn't really "arrived" for this kind of task. Your project was a great test of the state of scanning tech. Even after some rehearsal and practice at that process, I really doubt you could design that using that 3D scanner faster than using a set of calipers and a scratchpad to collect enough data to build out the working surfaces and objects manually in fusion.
"And it doesn't look stupid, like it was designed by a 12 year old that watched too much anime!" LoL, love it when you show rare form.
As a car guy, who tinkers with 3d printing a bit, I absolutely loved him saying “All heil the algorithm” 🤣
I was so grateful, in the end, that I was able to put my credit card back and cancel my new computer. Once you were finished, I figured I could do this w/o any new toys. BUT, even if I don’t need or will never do what I see you do, I always learn and am always able to apply something to my tinkering. Thanks and God bless!
I’m not a patron but, thank you patrons for helping with James’s videos which are a joy.
I love it. Great video on the 3D scanning, but probably your most over the top engineering and modeling for something that would take about 5 minutes with your calipers!
I have this scanner!! It's great. I found most problems associated with getting started with this scanner are due to user error. But there are so many resources online, on Facebook, and here on TH-cam that its easy to find help to figure out what your doing wrong. Thats what makes this particular scanner great (along with the fabulous software). The downside is that it is very heavily demanding on your computer. If you don't already have a powerful PC or Laptop you can expect to pay around $2K or more for one that is good enough for this piece of equipment. So those of you who consider buying this need to include that into your expected cost. I've also found that scanning in the dark helps with small items, as the scanner has its own lights that focus on the cameras focal point. At first I was considering buying LED lights to make things easier to see, but now I just turn off all the lights in the room and begin my scan :).
I wish to complement you on the quality of your video production. If you take requests, I would like to see a short rundown of your production procedure. I'm new to this and know that I, and others, struggle with the details of making a quality presentation. My interest is your workflow, from idea to filming and narration, not about gear and lighting. You have obviously made an extended effort, and it shines brilliantly in your videos.
Danke!
Directly because of you my new Einstar arrived today. Until I saw this video I hadn't realized that its' better to think of the scanner as a "measuring" tool and not a "modeling" tool - the goal isn't usually to scan something, directly convert that scan data to a solid model and then work with it from there. Instead you are scanning something and then measuring/referencing from that data to model the thing you need. That insight really cleared up a lot for me, thanks. One stupid thing I've noticed so far is that Shining 3D recommends using only their original scan markers, but so far I haven't found that they actually sell them, in fact there aren't a lot of sources for them. There's also no indication that the glass calibration plate is available in case you dropped one. I'm hoping that both of these items are in fact easy to buy if you need them.
Can you scan a few standard objects like 1-2-3 blocks and see how well it does on dimensional accuracy?
Around 0.1-0.2mm for a 10x10cm part. That’s why I bought a Shining SP in the end. But I probably will buy this scanner again sometime in the future.
For big scans like this the scanner is the best you can get for under 5k.
James, you have so much knowledge and skill in so many areas, it never ceases to amaze with the content you share! Thanks for another ACTUALLY helpful, and EXPERTLY explained project.
Still cracks me up how strangely relevant the videos you share are to the things I'm already working on/with in my shop! Specifically "open source photogrammetry" this time...I just don't want to pay that much for a scanner yet...but, now you've once more shown me there is " James - Justification " for this purchase! (It's what I tell the wife now to further justify a purchase when you review or use a new shiny tool I decided I can't live without! It's saved me hours of trying to explain these tool's purpose already!)
How accurate is the scan with respect to dimensions? Can you calibrate the scanner with some known object like a 123 block? Have you tried scanning a known size reference object and checking the error?
The scanner will give an approximation of the error in scan interpolation - Like anything there is a sliding scale where as you scan larger items you must learn to accept some error
But in general from past experience on something like a car bumper you can expect anywhere from 0.7mm to 1.2 mm depending on your tollerance for tedium, on smaller parts like the focussed area of the apron here you can get down to 0.1mm to 0.4mm depending on your prep work
The key think is having enough reference point for it to keep thinks coplanar and rotationally locked - if doing a larger relatively flat piece it can be worth while to attach some neodynium magnet or lumps of blue tack as additional references during the scan
This 3D scanner is a brilliant addition and alignments perfectly with your other tools like the CNC. your video's are most interesting
id love to know what happened to the cnc
My Grizzly G0709 lathe uses the same factory setup for the carriage lock. Lacking a 3d scanner I just replaced the hex socket screw with a Kipp adjustable handle and a flat thrust washer. This allows a positive quarter-turn (or less) locking action and is still adjustable for wear. It’s effective but clearly not as video-worthy.
Love this!! I just bought that scanner and a 3d printer.. Guy in snapmaker group recommended watching you to learn CAD. but my scanner and machine shop!! I"m home ;) thanks for posting.
Another well orchestrated amazing project James! Thank you very much, I enjoyed a lot watching it.
you can actually select the points in the scan data in fusion, you just have to right click the top level tree and "do not capture history data" after that you can select the individual vertices on the mesh. for whateve reasons. I use this to add construction planes based on the model to align it, but your tip about doing it in the scanning software was so much better, kudos for that!
Never really though about the carriage lock, when I first used it I just chucked an allen key in it and have just never taken it out.
I got really lucky with the thread index, 90 deg goes from full unlock to full lock, only problem is when it drifts backwards and gets between the tailstock stopping me from locking it.
Need to remember this for when I pimp my lathe.
Another very good explanation,
Thanks for sharing it.
It is all beyond what I'll ever do but I enjoyed watching anyway.
One suggestion of little value would be to add 6 or 8 holes in the edge of the knob for a tommy bar in case things ever get stuck or if they were threaded maybe a 1/4 turn lever.
Thanks again.
feeding the drill with the carriage is nice, Used to use a big 23/32 trough coolant drill that i had to feed 7 inches. It be cool if there was some easy way to latch on a move the tailstock with the carriage for drilling, and then be able disconnect and go on... Hmmm.
Great vid.
I've seen this done with a drag link. Your tailstock would need to be able to move smoothly while also being held down so it doesn't lift under pressure.
Hey there james, I had this lathe years ago and i noticed the underside of the ways are not very parallel with the top surfaces. This would maniest itself as locking of the tailstock when sliding it after an unlock (along the way it would bind). Or differential pressure on the locking screw like in your case. I think the best thing to do here is to make a sled that fits on the ways and attach a grinder and regrind the underside. But first inspect the bototm surfaces' coplanarity to the top surfaces.
The carriage lock surface on mine seems much more parallel than the tailstock locking surface, which is pretty bad, as you state.
Interesting as always.
Reminds me that it's time for my annual suggestion for a Clough42 F360 course. My credit card is locked and loaded
The complete overkill on projects like this is what makes this channel so great! 😂 Enjoyed this as always James, thank you for uploading! 👍👍
For much larger, 150-ton ship structural units, we glued small targets (reflective disks) on the units for establishing datum points. This lets you come back and re-establish coordinates. It also helps to ensure measurements remain consistent.
Awesome, pretty helpful and so instructive. Thanks a lot! That workflow from scanning section to Fusion360 modelling, is simply put, a great pedagogy - the best IMHO regarding the ton of tutorials on einstar 3D scanner I've been through. I might have said that in more than one of videos of yours, excuse me, but I can't help praising your work and your sense of sharing knowledge and skills. Again, thank you very much!from Strasbourg, France.
Love it, love it, showing how to take the scan and then use it in fusion is great. The silver connector is made by Lemo just in case some need to know.
Excited to watch! FYI, I haven't been getting weekly notifications for your videos and I'm excited for the backlog but sad that you're possibly not getting views
Nice work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Was this sponsored? This is the 3rd video I've seen posted in a day about this EXACT scanner, seems very coincidental that you happened to buy one and drop it right at the same time. If you did, fair play, if not then I can say for this guy, I prefer to have freebies and other stuff mentioned clearly (or mention that you bought it with your own money very clearly). I know it's a pain, but there's so much shilling out here that the clarity is helpful in evaluating what I'm being told. Love the videos.
Using your own mind when evaluating things is a must regardless, so it doesn't really matter if it is sponsored. To me at least.
Nope. I paid cash for everything in this video except the collet holder on the lathe, which I mentioned. I think the reason you're seeing this scanner everywhere is that they finally broke the $1000 barrier and many people like myself have been lurking and waiting.
@@Clough42 Awesome! thanks for the clarification!
Two of my favorite TH-camrs are watching each other videos - how cool is that!
Perfect timing for a couple of projects that I need to do for work! Thanks.
Didn't you already teach us that "over engineering is highly under rated"? As always, great explanations of how to use a new tool!
Using a pin that fits well in the hole with matte finish makes a world of difference for the accuracy instead of trying to scan a hole.
Also, if scanning anything bigger, always use reference markers and scales.
Worked with a GOM, atos tripple scan for years.
I love Super Fast Matt. Nice work!
Even if do definitely do not need the scanner for this, it is even more complicated to use, you mad a nice tutorial. On other surfaces or objects, which are not as symmetrical you need a scanner .
Could you share the laptop model? Is this your future primary Fusion 360 device, or do you use something else? Thanks for all you do!
That einstar 3d scanner is pretty sweet. You'll be doing some next level prototyping with it versus someone who has to guesstimate with their eyes like me!
dear james/clough42 that connector is called a lemo connector ( just in case you didnt know and wanted some more of them )
Nice. Thanks!
My first thought when seeing over complicated devices or products is, “How can I simplify this so that I can reduce costs and use it in my shop?” Then, after carefully studying the design I almost always learn something new and valuable.
I would consider milling some flutes (5 or 6) in the knob to give a little better finger hold and torque.
What a nice project. I’ve also been looking at einstar for a while but I’m slowly moving to Mac based ecosystem so that’s been holding me back. Hey what’s the laptop model you bought ?
I also do whatever Matt Brown says but this time I had the Einstar before him. I also have the Revopoint Mini, Pop 2, Range and a pre-order on the Pop 3. I also have the Mole. For the kind of stuff we do, I find myself gravitating towards the Range. It gives great quality and the ability to do mobile scanning on my phone then upload to the PC for processing beats lugging my laptop out to the shop. If you get a chance, try the Range. 👍
i'm a bit disappointed you didnt etch the top of the knob...
also...boys with their toys...now i want a 3d scanner....also idly wondering if an xbox kinect still would hold up for homebrew scanning...
I want to make one for my lathe too but I think im going to use one of those finger cam locks. Like from one of the kid’s old bicycle seat post
Always enjoy your thought process.
Fun new toy. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hey James, I was going to purchase a 3D scanner this week for work, but I never considered the Einstar. Did you weigh the options between the Einstar and the Revopoint Range? Now I'm thinking twice about which one I need. I'll be scanning large equipment and occasionally smaller things too
I haven't looked at the revopoint, so I can't compare.
Hello
Sorry for my English, I’m French.
On fusion360, you can create projection on one plan for draw automatically all lines on this plan.
Thanks for your videos 👍🏼
I don't think you can do that with a mesh. If you can, that would be very useful.
Hello, how do you rate the scanner because I'm going to buy it, I don't need speed and accuracy, but I'm encouraged by scanning greetings from Poland.
The reason for the sponpyness is likely that the tab on the bottom has to close down and engage on both the front and rear of it - If you add a small spring in back of the tab, ideally countersunk inside it so that it is pushed to pivot you will feel an immediate improvement in that slop for only a 20 minute job
How about a link to that laptop? I’ve gotta break down and buy a high spec non apple machine for the shop. Your PC design comment was spot on.
I am a professional youtube watcher and I approve of this video.
James, Overkill-----Yes, but cool new toy. What kind of precision did you get from the features extracted from the mesh object
Nice! Tell us about the new laptop, please. 🤗
It's black.
@@Clough42 🤣
That scanner is way cool.
But things sure seem to get klutzy after going into F360.
Isn't there a way to just convert mesh into surfaces, and add some enclosing surfaces to create a solid?
If you've got $10k to spend on software, then sort of. If you know of less expensive options, I'm interested.
@@Clough42 Yikes. I guess reverse engineering isn't as far along as I thought.
At 7:40 you say you're not trying to make a watertight model, which would obviously be impractical given the size and complexity of your lathe.
But if a part were small enough that it would, does that change the situation, i.e. does a watertight model lend itself to conversion to a solid more easily?
What laptop did you buy? I have this scanner but no suitable CPU.
What about a new tail-stock lever ? I've always hated that nut especially if you're machining lots of the same part.
Was delightfuly suprised by the callout to Superfast Matt!
Is this purely a camera-based scanner or does it also have lidar?
I'm also wondering if you have used cell-phone based photogrammetry before? Especially the ones that supplement it with lidar on the most recent iPhones (not sure about android)? I'm wondering how that compares to this sort of dedicated scanner.
For once I got something before you did! I have the same scanner that I bought couple of months ago. Pretty cool stuff. I used it to scan a complex 3d geometry of an A/C bracket and pulley on my car to be able to remove the A/C compressor. I need the space for turbo things and it saves some weight... I guess I could have measured it, but it's on multiple levels and angles...
For other looking at the comments, you need an Nvidia card because the software uses Cuda. The more Cuda power you get the better it is. It just doesn't work well with ATI/AMD.
I can't even make breakfast without using my 3D scanner any more!
What's the recommended distance on that 3D scanner? It seems to have an unusually large distance between the stereo cameras for close up work, maybe it's using macro lenses or something.
Seems like something that could be fun to get.
Thanks for the video. What kind of detail do you think you can get out of it on small items? I've been wanting to enlarge a 1/48 scale model and make a 1/32 or 1/35, but I don't know if it would work.
You might want to put a set screw the clampdown on the top of the bolt actually you might spend or press out from the head of a bolt. Great project I would probably use the scanner for something else lol
I hoped until the end it'll get a beautiful finish on the grinder
Wow, great video.
James, you have my admiration! But Lord have mercy, I hope I never have to do anything that gets that complicated! lol
Okay, what beast of a laptop did you get for this?
I didn't know that laptop existed until this video, but it might be an Asus ProArt Studiobook. A beast indeed.
Where's the link to that laptop? Someone might need to buy one of those...
“It doesn’t look completely stupid like it was designed by a 12 year old who’s watched too much anime” so true 😂😂😂
I just wish you had named the type of that new laptop! 🙂
Awesome sauce 👌
What's the status on selling the block that eliminates the compound slide compound rest?
wow and to think I create very complex parts with just a tape measure and a set of calipers, but this looks fun
It’s not scan accuracy, it’s just what is the smallest detail you have. For this part, you could have selected 1.0. With lower setting, the scanning is much faster and you can scan from greater distance.
Thanks for testing out the 3D scanner on our behalf, it’s confirmed it’s not for me….. yet.
Hi James, I'm getting on in years so maybe this is me but the interface into Fusion 360 strikes me as a 'work in progress'. It seems quite a few steps are required to get from a 3D image to a 3D model - apologies if my terminology is wrong. Do you see this becoming more of a 'one click' operation or is the decision making process required too complex for that?
Hi, can you please do a tutorial on how to orient the model if your scanner software does not have that feature?
If you're using Fusion, there is a good technique here: th-cam.com/video/nDWjLu4eiu4/w-d-xo.html
@Clough42 Thanks, I will take a look at it. I appreciate the link you sent
the like was due right after I heard 'overcomplicating'...thats my jam
by the way...can u do a vid on tolerancing for fits?
I notice that it doesn't supply measurements with the 3d images and yes I can design what he wants just by measuring the limited area and plug into AutoCAD.
Better yet why not just redesign the apron area of the lathe and just put in electrically-operated solenoids which lock any movement. Also, boot them into your CAM programming so, while you are heavy turning a part, the solenoids automatically engage the locking mechanism on the apron making your machining very rigid.
2:55 what is that thing close to the space bar? A Joystick?
They call it the "ASUS Dial." It turns and clicks. By default, it just adjusts the screen brightness and volume, but it can be set up to do other stuff in other apps.
Coincidence that Stefan Gotteswinter just recently talked about drilling with the carriage instead of the tailstock again? 👀
Not as far as I know. I've had a toolpost drill chuck on my Amazon wish list for years.
@@Clough42 sorry, i didn’t mean to imply you copied him, I just thought it was great to see you using that method too!
A spring loaded captive lever that you could pull up to get more quarter turns would have been a simpler but obviously less fun way to go about solving this 😅
Like a kip handle? Messing with that every time I need to lock or unlock sounds dreadful.
@@Clough42 I didn't know kip handles existed that's cool. I made the assumption you only needed maybe half or one full turn, but maybe not and maybe it would be dreadful 😅
Great video regardless. I'm always trying to find an excuse to buy a 3d scanner haha
Nice project. Are you happy with your Grizzly lathe? Pros, cons?
I WOULD love a scanner however still cannot justify the price ... I will try the camera and mesh cloud approach soon. 😅
Do you have the CAD drawing for sell? As always, you rock.
The CAD drawings for all of my projects are on Patreon.
.. thats one way to justify buying a new computer. I like it!
I’m interested in 3d scans but it seems like the tech isn’t that valuable if I have to sketch over the mesh anyway 😢
It depends if what you're scanning is easy to measure.
So, you're going to do everything that SuperFastMatt says? It was nice knowing you... 😂
on the bottom of the scanner that is a lemo connector, it probably makes up a quarter of the price
bringing the .obj file into fusion really made it look like some sort of foliage rendering.. kinda looks cool though ....lmao at total disregard for the instruction manual and mocking the manufacturer for including it :) Very cool new --toy-- tool
Yea, all this 3d scanning is fun and all... But in most applications it's way to much, and can complicate things more than it helps.
Clippers, a ruler and a micrometer is all you need for 99% of all your reverse engineering.
I regularly come across the original design of parts by accident.
You measure the coarse dimensions, put it in cad and do some assumptions like rounding the dimensions and some radii and boom! You see how they designed that part! 😮
Getting data back of a 3d scann, can be way more difficult than looking at a part and take some messurements, because taking a messurement in a scann can be more challenging then in the physical world!
But... It always depends!
if you are using the paid version of fusion 360 you can convert the mesh data to a prismatic model, might be fun to experiment with the point cloud mesh scan data and see how accurate it comes out for future projects so that you don't have to recreate the geometry....if you aren't using the paid version then nevermind, they just tease ya with it lol
I'm using a paid version. Where is this mythical feature you speak of?
@@Clough42 Hey James, I'm on a student license, so it may well be different for you. For me 'Convert Mesh' is an option under the 'modify' section of the mesh work panel. It shows up between the Appearance and Remove commands.
Hope that helped, I always appreciate the little Fusion tips and look forward to your videos. Cheers!
So making a custom locking screw to be able to attach a reversible ratchet ring spanner wouldn't do as well 🙂
Oh, that's not a bad idea, either.