Scannerdanner premium membership is the best thing I have ever done for myself!!! For less than a cup of coffee everyday I have learned sooo much on premium for only 11.00 bucks a month! The best part is I can listen anytime I have spare time! So in the car on my way to any where! In the shower! Walking the dog! Instead of watching TV! I have both books and the best part is my memory has improved because I am always engaged. Bored at a family reunion? Your phone and a bluetooth earpiece is all you need! The lectures on premium are always with me and easy to follow! I listen to the lectures again and again! Thank you Paul and Caleb Danner!
@@ScannerDanner Im Field Service & initially ordered the EBook but cancelled and grabbed the hard copy. Carry it in the truck, more convenient for me. I was worried you had a second book out that I didn't know about. All good. Cheers Mike 🇦🇺
Sage advice. Remaining respectful when the angry customer leaves is the height of professionalism, and when they calm down the customer will realize that too.
Been working as a Ford tech for the past 5 years. After all the bs and pin point test. The final test that is requested from a engineer is, to check the circuits with a test light haha. You are the man ScannerDanner! Your ebook helped me survive the flat rate system!
This is one of the hardest things in the flat rate world. It’s important to keep reminding ourselves to check root cause and potential cascading damage and not be in too much of a rush!
The problem is we live in a high-pressure short cut world where techs are willing to make a quick call judgement on a problem without investigation or in a lot of cases now very little knowledge of how to investigate or properly troubleshoot.
Incandescent test light is one of my favorite diagnostic tools. Tool guys are always trying to sell me an LED test light but they don’t know anything about circuit loads.
Absolutely 1000%! A 5 Watt incandescent lamp and possibly higher in some cases should be right there among your tools. You can do a lot with just a 5W lamp but use Ohms law to calculate what you must have and make sure you understand what you're doing. Too much current can and will cause damage in many cases... Watts = Amps x Volts Amps = Volts / Resistance etc.,
Danner is the man. His years of thinking outside the box and sharing the techniques he created, makes us all better at diagnostics. His approaches are so clever. He knows it too which is why he speaks with, and inspires confidence. And I love that he'll drop some mind blowing information and then drop an f-bomb the next sentence. He's definately the real deal. I think he had an extra coffee before this video though. WOT :) If you haven't already, buy the book, subscribe to premium. Its worth every penny. God bless.
Super great video. It makes a GREAT point. That multi meters, power probes, and LED test lights are sometimes inaccurate, and misleading. Multi meters have their place, but I use mostly incandescent test lights. And not just one type. I use various 12 volt test lights that draw power at various levels. Depends on the circuit I am testing. I use one made out from tiny 12 volt Instrument cluster lights to big headlight bulbs to "stress test" powers and grounds.
Sir all your videos are very good i learned how to use a scanner i have so call mobile mechanic come to the house to work on my engine for a P0171 he spent 2 cans of brake cleaner and couldn't fix the problem I started watching your videos and turned out to be a bad fuel injectors. Every one should watch your videos before working on a engine thank you so much.
your analogy is absolutely vital in my Industry with some "computers ", i.e. FCCs, ADIRU's SDAC's easily costing $50K to well over $150k, so missing the root cause or other damaged components is VERY bad, and customers will lose their mind when you call back with more damage costs, granted sometimes you cant tell.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Let me help you pour that electrical and electronics troubleshooting foundation, then you can take it from there, and build your house. The cost is 36 cents a day ($11 a month) If you have a passion for this side of our field, but never had the opportunity to get formal training, this is your chance! I am watching SD Premium change lives all over the world. It works! Ask around.
I remember making the very mistake you're talking about with an old Ford Escape. The device and driver were both bad, and I got outsmarted by a wire to boot. The monetary sum of my mistake wasn't nearly as drastic as $3000, but that customer still thinks I'm a $3000 asshole none the less. Mistakes like this always seems small enough, but the consequences are usually disproportionately large and severe by comparison. This is a great video even if I do hate it a little.
While I agree with checking with a test light to make sure the driver is good it’s also something you should pay attention to which test light you use. I generally only do test with a high impedance test light when working with modules because I’ve seen first hand a 194 bulb test light burn up a trace in a BCM because the 194 pulled more current then the circuit was designed for.
I have one and they are indispensable for troubleshooting circuits. The resistance of a meter is so high that it can give odd readings for semiconductor driven outputs.
Yes, Get it tested and know the faults before approaching the customer. It is always better to overquote within reason and they sometimes are happy with any savings that occur but you need to be sure of the fault in the fist place.....
Life lesson Check the driver. You are so right Professor. I see a lot of bad drivers out there. How they got a license in the first place I'll never know. Good won. Happy Motoring.
Nicely put, and good advice, Given In the days gone past l used to use and still do in some cases, a test light and volt.and amp meter and also ohms meter when req.
Yeah it was hard to lean the method but i have shown this. Methos to mechanic and he didn't get it. He though he was better he aaid the 'light is and old methos' and so i stop explaint it to him but i felt good that i was able to undestand it. Thanks for this method it saves alot of time in troubleshooting.
One question I have for you, when selecting and incandescent test light do you want a “computer safe” version. I see analog test lights and also the computer safe versions which appear to have a resistor of sorts built into the circuit. Are there limitations when using the computer safe versions over the regular analog type?
Man you are the one if I need any information about the cars electrical systems I just go to your videos thank for all that's years you work hard to learn us and give us the great information thanks I'm not in USA I'm in iraq if I'm thear I'll come to see you that's will great and honer
I've made more money from diagnostic work with my 8$ test light than any other tool in the shop. Will never be able to full cover the cost of fancy scan tools even knock off ones. I love grabbing my headlight bulb and cut up pigtail for the higher amp loads.
I asked my snap on guy for a incandecant test light thinking id upgrade from my £5 one i bought 20 years ago. He sold me one i think it was £60 + vat. But later regreted it, it only pulls 50 milliamps with the engine running, it wont even power a relay. So im back using my old trusty. When i can be arsed ill take it apart and see if theres a resistor i can change but just giving everyone a heads up 👍
Hi Paul -- You mention in a Scannerdanner premium channel video --SOP Day 19 part 3-Intentionally shorting a 5 volt reference circuit @ 5:04 that "I cooked 3 or 4 computers but always on a output driver circuit but never on a reference"---Did you do something different back then then your doing now like using a jumper wire or a high amp test light? Was the output still working and extra amps too much? I'm a little confused regarding to today's video. . Please elaborate. Still learning from you. Luv you man
To be clear. You want to know the specifics of each module i cooked and why? It was centralized around carelessness and not know my circuit design and assuming and yes a jumper wire in all 3 cases
You're so damn right sir Danner...my testlight it's my favorite #1 tool above all other tools...and be HONEST* is pricelesssssss !!! One particular question mr.Danner, what's your personal opinion for the loadPRO tool. Thanks. Best regards.
Yes I agree you have to test certain circuits using a incandescent test light .... Other circumstances on vehicle electronic systems ...Data transfer wires or data controlled modules .you should not use a incandescent test light !! I use a Multimeter ,Led test light ,Logic Probe , oscilloscope,and incandescent test light ....enjoyed The Video ......👍
Incandescent lamps are the technical term for regular bulbs with a filament in them. So an incandescent test light is just a regular one with a bulb in it.
Hey Scanner Danner , question- I've got a 91 chevy C1500 5.7 TBI. I'm getting good spark and fuel pressure, It will run with gas poured into the carb, but the injectors won't fire. Should I replace the ECM? Your thoughts?
Check the ignition control module signal on the purple/white wire. Common for ignition module to fail and not send that signal.(no injector pulse) And yes, you'll still have good spark even though the ICM is bad.
Automotive repair DIY'ers, here's the poor man's Power Probe substitute: A Power Probe is a tool which one hooks up to the battery terminals of a car to test power and ground wires at various places on the vehicle. It has sounds, flashing lights, and a display for voltage and such. The tool starts at around a C note and goes up fast depending on accessories and such. Now, if you're using it every day and fixing cars is your career, such an expense and time-saving tool makes sense. But, to the occasional shadetree mechanic, those resources can be better utilized elsewhere. I came up with a homemade version which would fill the bill rather nicely. Start with a quality 14 gauge, ten foot extension cord. Cut the female plug off keeping 4' or so of the cord attached. Strip back the external cord sheath 2' or so exposing the individual wires of power (black), ground (green), and common (white). Attach 30 amp alligator clip/clamps to the individual wires -- a red clamp for the black wire, the black clamp for the white wire, and a naked clamp for the green example. Use green heat shrink tubing to mark the ground clamp as, well, ground. What we now have is a female power cord end with alligator clip/clamps on the other end. Do the same thing to the male extension cord end but rather than use alligator clip/clamps, go with some kind of female banana socket. Keep the red, black, and green color scheme consistent and with continuity. So, how to use? The red and black conductors are rather obvious. The green conductor can be used for supplying a valid 5 volt reference if necessary. Here's the nice thing about this setup.. If one needs a longer reach, just plug in *any* regular extension cord for battery-to-back-of-trailer diagnosing. Be sure to leave each individual conductor with enough room to get an amp clamp around it. The poor man's Load Pro substitute: For DIY tool load testing, just raid a couple of incandescent dual-filament tail light bulbs, sockets, and a few inches of wire lead the next time you're at the junkyard. I have a collection of marker lights (0.2 amps), tail lights (0.5 and 2.0 amp), and headlights (55 and 65 watts). Wide-mouthed athletic sports drink bottles can be cut like a funnel to provide a hood to protect flesh and bulb from meeting while hot. Hot glue will anchor the bulb socket to the mouth of the funnel hood.
Let me see if I get this correct. You need to test the driver with an incandescent bulb because the driver could appear functional when using just a voltmeter but can't handle any current?
Yes sir and to take it further, it is more about learning how to substitute a load and check the driver function and control circuit. I do this ALL the time, even on circuits that are not burned up. Say an EVAP vent solenoid doesn't work. It is ground side switched and has 12 and 0 on the two wires, not energized, backprobing plugged in. It should be 12 and 12. The solenoid is most likely open. Next step, is not to ohm the solenoid, but to confirm wiring and driver integrity. Install my test light in that circuit and turn the driver on. Light lights, your done. The solenoid was open for sure and the rest of the circuit is good :-)
@@tonyt1554 these are things you do want to consider when doing this type of testing. If the component draws 10 amps of current for example, a 200ma test light that may draw an initial 1 amp up current when first turned on would not be much of a load. But a more direct answer is no, I have never seen a driver light a test light normally and not be able to control it's output
I don't know how it works over in US, but here if I tell the customer he needs an "output" device and it was not it, the money goes from my wallet. And I can assure you, it has happened more than dozen of times until my skills got better.
This is the realiality of the trade especially in the UK. People/customers prefer to spend money on parts but not on the diagnosis. I had a Vauxhall/Opel van with accelerator pedal fault. Done my checks following scanner danner disconnect the sensor jump the 5v to the signal via a test light. App 2 shows 5 volts on the scan data. App 1 showing ghost/ floating voltage. So obviously a wiring issue with the signal. I put for more time with my workshop controller. Customer doesn't want to spend more time investigating. Takes the van away fits an accelerator pedal position sensor to the vehicle. Doesn't fix the fault. Manager tells me his bringing it back in next week to find the faulty wiring.
Case in point is where I’ve seen Ford pcm failures due to coils back feeding and ruining the pcm drivers for the coils. which is nothing new this has been a problem from like 05-12 on varying Ford and Lincoln models, however if car or suv gets to you early in the failures and it hasn’t set any pcm circuit codes and only standard misfire codes I’ve seen many tech fire off new coils and plugs only to find they still have a misfire because they never checked the coil circuit for pulse and voltage, now you have to make a follow up call to the customer and sell a very expensive and possibly time consuming job due at times to back ordered parts or having to send the pcm out for repair on top of the fact you now look like you don’t know what your doing which is not good for repeat business
Thanks man, I own a motorcycle shop in Dublin Ireland. I find your videos very useful , great information. I fix a lot of electrical jobs.. keep up the good work and greetings from Ireland.. if you ever fancy a visit I’ll have a pint of Guinness with you!!! Thanks Eric
Also the question is do you want the unpleasant customer back. Sometimes it's good to see them go and than to refuse to work with them in the future. I always put that in the category of no good deed goes unpunished.
It's Shame how many Tech's in Australia do not know how to use a Normal test light...So many jump on the Pico band wagon.....Before using the basic tools.
Oh man , how can i reach you to help me diagnosing those difficult problems that come across from time to time , really need a teacher like you in my WhatsApp contact list 👌
I don’t/can't, offer phone support (400k other people want the same thing) But I've created a forum for you guys to ask for technical help. It is free to join. We have over 20k global members and I have 5 hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. www.scannerdanner.com
@@mral168 from my website at www.scannerdanner.com I always suggest the eBook first. This way you can see the content and determine if it is right for you. If it is not, I offer a full refund. You have nothing to lose.
Yup. They'll be back... ON THE HOOK, after the dad, the neighbor, the Shell gas station and the OfferUp mechanic have had a go at it and turned the car into a toilet.
![Voltage Drop Testing with a Test Light? [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kTW68s5vqIg/mqdefault.jpg)
Scannerdanner premium membership is the best thing I have ever done for myself!!! For less than a cup of coffee everyday I have learned sooo much on premium for only 11.00 bucks a month! The best part is I can listen anytime I have spare time! So in the car on my way to any where! In the shower! Walking the dog! Instead of watching TV! I have both books and the best part is my memory has improved because I am always engaged. Bored at a family reunion? Your phone and a bluetooth earpiece is all you need! The lectures on premium are always with me and easy to follow! I listen to the lectures again and again! Thank you Paul and Caleb Danner!
Thank you Robert, you've been a great voice for me lately. Really appreciate you my friend
Hi Rob whats the second book ?
@@mikethomas9544 i think he is referring to the eBook and paper book 😉
@@ScannerDanner Im Field Service & initially ordered the EBook but cancelled and grabbed the hard copy. Carry it in the truck, more convenient for me. I was worried you had a second book out that I didn't know about. All good. Cheers Mike 🇦🇺
@@mikethomas9544 thank you Mike!
Students are very to lucky to have you as their mentor. Keep going what you’re doing. God bless and good luck.
I agree. I love that Paul focuses on honesty and integrity.
Sage advice.
Remaining respectful when the angry customer leaves is the height of professionalism, and when they calm down the customer will realize that too.
You can hear the passion in your voice and how you speak to your students. All teachers should follow your lead, no matter what the subject.
Been working as a Ford tech for the past 5 years. After all the bs and pin point test. The final test that is requested from a engineer is, to check the circuits with a test light haha. You are the man ScannerDanner! Your ebook helped me survive the flat rate system!
This is one of the hardest things in the flat rate world. It’s important to keep reminding ourselves to check root cause and potential cascading damage and not be in too much of a rush!
The problem is we live in a high-pressure short cut world where techs are willing to make a quick call judgement on a problem without investigation or in a lot of cases now very little knowledge of how to investigate or properly troubleshoot.
@@trailerfitter2 True, exactly why channels like ScannerDanner are so important for our industry. It’s great to see how many views they get!
Incandescent test light is one of my favorite diagnostic tools. Tool guys are always trying to sell me an LED test light but they don’t know anything about circuit loads.
Absolutely 1000%!
A 5 Watt incandescent lamp and possibly higher in some cases should be right there among your tools. You can do a lot with just a 5W lamp but use Ohms law to calculate what you must have and make sure you understand what you're doing. Too much current can and will cause damage in many cases...
Watts = Amps x Volts
Amps = Volts / Resistance
etc.,
life lesson .love it. honesty will always carry you in the end ,even if it hurts at the time.
Love the enthusiasm there Scanner Danner
Danner is the man. His years of thinking outside the box and sharing the techniques he created, makes us all better at diagnostics. His approaches are so clever. He knows it too which is why he speaks with, and inspires confidence. And I love that he'll drop some mind blowing information and then drop an f-bomb the next sentence. He's definately the real deal. I think he had an extra coffee before this video though. WOT :) If you haven't already, buy the book, subscribe to premium. Its worth every penny. God bless.
Thank you Jeremy!
Super great video. It makes a GREAT point. That multi meters, power probes, and LED test lights are sometimes inaccurate, and misleading. Multi meters have their place, but I use mostly incandescent test lights. And not just one type. I use various 12 volt test lights that draw power at various levels. Depends on the circuit I am testing. I use one made out from tiny 12 volt Instrument cluster lights to big headlight bulbs to "stress test" powers and grounds.
Best auto teacher on youtube..imo
The test light is always handy, Thanks a lot Paul
Awesome, Thanks for sharing SD👍
Truly this is a life lesson for tech's👍
Stay Safe SD👍
Sir all your videos are very good i learned how to use a scanner i have so call mobile mechanic come to the house to work on my engine for a P0171 he spent 2 cans of brake cleaner and couldn't fix the problem I started watching your videos and turned out to be a bad fuel injectors. Every one should watch your videos before working on a engine thank you so much.
This guys is plenty sharp . I always like to watch his videos
Right on Danner.always a good idea to load up circuit before making call.that way customers don't meltdown after part replacement
your analogy is absolutely vital in my Industry with some "computers ", i.e. FCCs, ADIRU's SDAC's easily costing $50K to well over $150k, so missing the root cause or other damaged components is VERY bad, and customers will lose their mind when you call back with more damage costs, granted sometimes you cant tell.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Let me help you pour that electrical and electronics troubleshooting foundation, then you can take it from there, and build your house. The cost is 36 cents a day ($11 a month) If you have a passion for this side of our field, but never had the opportunity to get formal training, this is your chance! I am watching SD Premium change lives all over the world. It works! Ask around.
Indeed, your book has transformed my life, & SD premium takes it to a different level👍
Thanks SD for all the great work👍
@@isalmankhan1 Thank you for the comment my friend and for your support!
Sir....thank you.see and lesson a lot from you channel.alif from Malaysia.kelantan state.
The diagnostics Gospel, according to St Paul Danner. Listen up, folks! 👍🏻🙏🏻✝️
You rock, Paul.
Well done, brotha! Haha
Definitely a life lesson in the mechanic world💯👌
I'm thinking this video may be perking up Eric O's ears. We all know he loves his test lights
Great tool but people must under stand how to use it ,thanks dan
It’s always great to learn from your experience Sir!
Thank you
I remember making the very mistake you're talking about with an old Ford Escape. The device and driver were both bad, and I got outsmarted by a wire to boot. The monetary sum of my mistake wasn't nearly as drastic as $3000, but that customer still thinks I'm a $3000 asshole none the less. Mistakes like this always seems small enough, but the consequences are usually disproportionately large and severe by comparison. This is a great video even if I do hate it a little.
Great lesson as always!
Brilliantly put in words mr danner 👍🏻👌🏻
You're the man Paul
I'm automobile engineering student , I'm very excited and very thankfull to mr danner . every subscrip.. Is fruitfull for me
You are awesome teacher
While I agree with checking with a test light to make sure the driver is good it’s also something you should pay attention to which test light you use. I generally only do test with a high impedance test light when working with modules because I’ve seen first hand a 194 bulb test light burn up a trace in a BCM because the 194 pulled more current then the circuit was designed for.
I have one and they are indispensable for troubleshooting circuits. The resistance of a meter is so high that it can give odd readings for semiconductor driven outputs.
Life lesson indeed, you nailed it. Thanks mate
Here in UTAH there is no, scannerdanner, ONLY parts changers we have. thanks for this video Paul God bless you.
I'm starting to recognize your name. You will be that tech that everyone will come to. Keep it up Nancy!!
Yes, Get it tested and know the faults before approaching the customer. It is always better to overquote within reason and they sometimes are happy with any savings that occur but you need to be sure of the fault in the fist place.....
Preach it Reverend Danner🙏🙏
Life lesson
Check the driver.
You are so right Professor.
I see a lot of bad drivers out there.
How they got a license in the first place I'll never know.
Good won. Happy Motoring.
Nicely put, and good advice,
Given
In the days gone past l used to use and still do in some cases, a test light and volt.and amp meter and also ohms meter when req.
king of the automotive engineer even a word of engineer is not enough for the paul danner
love from pakistan ♥️
Yep , I agree 100% . Great job on explaining it .
Couldn't have said it better perfect scenario 👏
Paul,
Thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Boooom!! Great video mister .Greetings from theNorwegianViking,Stefan
Yeah it was hard to lean the method but i have shown this. Methos to mechanic and he didn't get it. He though he was better he aaid the 'light is and old methos' and so i stop explaint it to him but i felt good that i was able to undestand it. Thanks for this method it saves alot of time in troubleshooting.
One question I have for you, when selecting and incandescent test light do you want a “computer safe” version. I see analog test lights and also the computer safe versions which appear to have a resistor of sorts built into the circuit. Are there limitations when using the computer safe versions over the regular analog type?
.
What if they demand the part to be replaced without diagnostics? You say that you dont work like that and be ready to walk
Are you guys gonna do 4K 60FPS ever? We wanna see all those individual hairs on Paul's knuckles. :P
😂😂😂
As car mechanic i was sold on all that jibrish you just told! Hahahahaha 👍
But honestly you are totally right!
Man you are the one if I need any information about the cars electrical systems I just go to your videos thank for all that's years you work hard to learn us and give us the great information thanks I'm not in USA I'm in iraq if I'm thear I'll come to see you that's will great and honer
Thank you so much my friend.
I've made more money from diagnostic work with my 8$ test light than any other tool in the shop. Will never be able to full cover the cost of fancy scan tools even knock off ones. I love grabbing my headlight bulb and cut up pigtail for the higher amp loads.
Awesome, thanks!
Incandescent test light is the way to go over LED, takes less current to light an LED. So it isn't accurate.
Danner is hyped! I had to play this at .75x to understand 😆
We uploaded this at 1.25 so you are spot on 😁
@@ScannerDanner did you really!??? 🤣
@@kevin_nagle for real we did lol
I asked my snap on guy for a incandecant test light thinking id upgrade from my £5 one i bought 20 years ago. He sold me one i think it was £60 + vat. But later regreted it, it only pulls 50 milliamps with the engine running, it wont even power a relay. So im back using my old trusty. When i can be arsed ill take it apart and see if theres a resistor i can change but just giving everyone a heads up 👍
I use the 50mA Snap-on test light for 5 volt circuits. Pulls about 25mA at 5V and barely lights/glows.
U just Rock. Love from 🇮🇳
Test light, knowledge, Integrity = $$$
Hi Paul -- You mention in a Scannerdanner premium channel video --SOP Day 19 part 3-Intentionally shorting a 5 volt reference circuit @ 5:04 that "I cooked 3 or 4 computers but always on a output driver circuit but never on a reference"---Did you do something different back then then your doing now like using a jumper wire or a high amp test light? Was the output still working and extra amps too much? I'm a little confused regarding to today's video. . Please elaborate. Still learning from you. Luv you man
To be clear. You want to know the specifics of each module i cooked and why? It was centralized around carelessness and not know my circuit design and assuming and yes a jumper wire in all 3 cases
❤it
SHARP Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 11:53am Good Morning
You're so damn right sir Danner...my testlight it's my favorite #1 tool above all other tools...and be HONEST* is pricelesssssss !!!
One particular question mr.Danner, what's your personal opinion for the loadPRO tool.
Thanks.
Best regards.
I have the LoadPro and it seems to function and work as it should. Dan Sullivan definitely 👍
They always... Come back😎
🤣🤣 yes they do
Excellent.
Integrity - good stuff
Yes I agree you have to test certain circuits using a incandescent test light ....
Other circumstances on vehicle electronic systems ...Data transfer wires or data controlled modules .you should not use a incandescent test light !!
I use a Multimeter ,Led test light ,Logic Probe , oscilloscope,and incandescent test light ....enjoyed The Video ......👍
For sure, I would agree that you shouldn't be using an incandescent test light on a CAN network 😉
Great video!
Great video 👍
How much coffee did Paul have this day?
Sped it up to 1.25 lol, only those that know, know
Well said man
Whats difference in incandescent light and regular
The bulb in an incandescent carries a bit more of a load than the newer LED bulb test lights
Incandescent lamps are the technical term for regular bulbs with a filament in them. So an incandescent test light is just a regular one with a bulb in it.
Is it just me or is Danner talking a mile a minute 🤣🤣
How much coffee this morning
Only kidding, great life lesson Paul.
it was, sorry, I won't do this again. We had it set to 1.25 to shave a minute off the quick lesson
Hey Scanner Danner , question- I've got a 91 chevy C1500 5.7 TBI. I'm getting good spark and fuel pressure, It will run with gas poured into the carb, but the injectors won't fire. Should I replace the ECM? Your thoughts?
Check the ignition control module signal on the purple/white wire. Common for ignition module to fail and not send that signal.(no injector pulse) And yes, you'll still have good spark even though the ICM is bad.
@@ScannerDanner Thanks SD. I wasn't expecting an answer so quickly. When I get it running I will report back.
@@zephead843 any update?
Right on. Just be honest and up front. They mightn't wanted to here it but facts are facts. I agree they will be back.
Automotive repair DIY'ers, here's the poor man's Power Probe substitute:
A Power Probe is a tool which one hooks up to the battery terminals of a car to test power and ground wires at various places on the vehicle. It has sounds, flashing lights, and a display for voltage and such. The tool starts at around a C note and goes up fast depending on accessories and such.
Now, if you're using it every day and fixing cars is your career, such an expense and time-saving tool makes sense. But, to the occasional shadetree mechanic, those resources can be better utilized elsewhere.
I came up with a homemade version which would fill the bill rather nicely.
Start with a quality 14 gauge, ten foot extension cord. Cut the female plug off keeping 4' or so of the cord attached. Strip back the external cord sheath 2' or so exposing the individual wires of power (black), ground (green), and common (white). Attach 30 amp alligator clip/clamps to the individual wires -- a red clamp for the black wire, the black clamp for the white wire, and a naked clamp for the green example. Use green heat shrink tubing to mark the ground clamp as, well, ground.
What we now have is a female power cord end with alligator clip/clamps on the other end.
Do the same thing to the male extension cord end but rather than use alligator clip/clamps, go with some kind of female banana socket. Keep the red, black, and green color scheme consistent and with continuity.
So, how to use? The red and black conductors are rather obvious. The green conductor can be used for supplying a valid 5 volt reference if necessary.
Here's the nice thing about this setup.. If one needs a longer reach, just plug in *any* regular extension cord for battery-to-back-of-trailer diagnosing.
Be sure to leave each individual conductor with enough room to get an amp clamp around it.
The poor man's Load Pro substitute:
For DIY tool load testing, just raid a couple of incandescent dual-filament tail light bulbs, sockets, and a few inches of wire lead the next time you're at the junkyard. I have a collection of marker lights (0.2 amps), tail lights (0.5 and 2.0 amp), and headlights (55 and 65 watts). Wide-mouthed athletic sports drink bottles can be cut like a funnel to provide a hood to protect flesh and bulb from meeting while hot. Hot glue will anchor the bulb socket to the mouth of the funnel hood.
I finally got around to putting up a video on the DIY electrical tools:
th-cam.com/video/wkUGeFYLgoo/w-d-xo.html
thanks Mate your my hearo .. best wishes for your
Let me see if I get this correct. You need to test the driver with an incandescent bulb because the driver could appear functional when using just a voltmeter but can't handle any current?
Yes sir and to take it further, it is more about learning how to substitute a load and check the driver function and control circuit. I do this ALL the time, even on circuits that are not burned up. Say an EVAP vent solenoid doesn't work. It is ground side switched and has 12 and 0 on the two wires, not energized, backprobing plugged in. It should be 12 and 12. The solenoid is most likely open. Next step, is not to ohm the solenoid, but to confirm wiring and driver integrity. Install my test light in that circuit and turn the driver on. Light lights, your done. The solenoid was open for sure and the rest of the circuit is good :-)
@@ScannerDanner Are there ever times when the driver can handle the test light draw but not the actual component draw?
@@tonyt1554 these are things you do want to consider when doing this type of testing. If the component draws 10 amps of current for example, a 200ma test light that may draw an initial 1 amp up current when first turned on would not be much of a load. But a more direct answer is no, I have never seen a driver light a test light normally and not be able to control it's output
I don't know how it works over in US, but here if I tell the customer he needs an "output" device and it was not it, the money goes from my wallet. And I can assure you, it has happened more than dozen of times until my skills got better.
This is the realiality of the trade especially in the UK. People/customers prefer to spend money on parts but not on the diagnosis. I had a Vauxhall/Opel van with accelerator pedal fault. Done my checks following scanner danner disconnect the sensor jump the 5v to the signal via a test light. App 2 shows 5 volts on the scan data. App 1 showing ghost/ floating voltage. So obviously a wiring issue with the signal. I put for more time with my workshop controller. Customer doesn't want to spend more time investigating. Takes the van away fits an accelerator pedal position sensor to the vehicle. Doesn't fix the fault. Manager tells me his bringing it back in next week to find the faulty wiring.
I want to know . How a vaccum pump works . Witch chapter ? In p sd?
chapter 3 material for sure, if the vacuum pump you are trying to learn is an electric motor
Gold.
Did you speed up the video?
I did, sorry. The full length lecture is now here and playback is normal
Amazon has mini otc 3633 back in stock 🤷♂️
Great danner
What is the test light called? Real name
Just a regular incandescent light bulb type test light (old school) (non LED)
A repair does not take place unless you prevent the problem from reoccurring again.
Playback at .75 speed to hear Scanner Danner normally, lol
Lol, we did set this one to 1.25, good ear my friend
Case in point is where I’ve seen Ford pcm failures due to coils back feeding and ruining the pcm drivers for the coils. which is nothing new this has been a problem from like 05-12 on varying Ford and Lincoln models, however if car or suv gets to you early in the failures and it hasn’t set any pcm circuit codes and only standard misfire codes I’ve seen many tech fire off new coils and plugs only to find they still have a misfire because they never checked the coil circuit for pulse and voltage, now you have to make a follow up call to the customer and sell a very expensive and possibly time consuming job due at times to back ordered parts or having to send the pcm out for repair on top of the fact you now look like you don’t know what your doing which is not good for repeat business
100% pure right
You'll never get taught stuff like this in a regular school/class.
True!
Very true!
Thanks man,
I own a motorcycle shop in Dublin Ireland. I find your videos very useful , great information. I fix a lot of electrical jobs.. keep up the good work and greetings from Ireland.. if you ever fancy a visit I’ll have a pint of Guinness with you!!!
Thanks Eric
Also the question is do you want the unpleasant customer back. Sometimes it's good to see them go and than to refuse to work with them in the future. I always put that in the category of no good deed goes unpunished.
agree, I was more speaking from reading a skeptical mind, not one who blatantly is calling you a thief.
Paul is talking some students to church. 😎
It's Shame how many Tech's in Australia do not know how to use a Normal test light...So many jump on the Pico band wagon.....Before using the basic tools.
Wer are you from sir
He's from Good ol' USA!
Oh man , how can i reach you to help me diagnosing those difficult problems that come across from time to time , really need a teacher like you in my WhatsApp contact list 👌
I don’t/can't, offer phone support (400k other people want the same thing)
But I've created a forum for you guys to ask for technical help. It is free to join. We have over 20k global members and I have 5 hand picked moderators who are there to help me help you guys. www.scannerdanner.com
I hope to join with you to study
You can do that here www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html Thank you!
How can I purchase the book
I want a book explains checking and repairing electrical circuits
@@mral168 from my website at www.scannerdanner.com I always suggest the eBook first. This way you can see the content and determine if it is right for you. If it is not, I offer a full refund. You have nothing to lose.
Yup. They'll be back... ON THE HOOK, after the dad, the neighbor, the Shell gas station and the OfferUp mechanic have had a go at it and turned the car into a toilet.
In a business perspective this isn't always the best option and most customers don't understand what a good technician is
Dude....lay off the booger sugar lol.
why warp speed lol
Sorry, won't do it again