Corey Buhl I would say anything that is marine grade. Why? Because they have a glue within, that when heated also makes a good water tight seal and it doesn't slide. I find regular shrink wrap does an OK job, but when handled a lot, the tube slides no longer protecting the joint or bare wire.
South Main Auto Repair Eric, I just watched your video from December 12 2015. Ford (used) ECM replacement. In that video you couldn't rewrite the VIN number into the used ECM. I realize that some time has passed since you made that video and you may have figured it out. But, I found another great Tech that I enjoy watching also and he has it figured out. Take a look at Fordtechmakuloco video "Save money using a junkyard ECM. Don't let the dealer tell you it can't be done." I hope this is of use to you! Keep up the good work!
As a middle aged married male with children I really enjoy making test lights on Friday and Saturday nights. We make it a family affair and sit around a 12 volt battery and try them out for fun. Brightest bulb wins! Quality family time together, thank you Eric O.
I'm a John Deere dealer construction tech, and I Made a set of these very load lights after watching you in very beginning of your channel start. Love them very fast on diagnostic with electral repair. Thanks man love your channel.👍
My main load substitution tool is a plastic Project Box with six holes drilled in it and fitted with 1156 sockets. 1157s work even better but I was sent these by mistake and didn't catch it until I couldn't return them. You wire the six sockets in parallel and can even add banana jacks on the side of the box for a convenient voltage drop test point. Then you run wires out the other side of the box and put alligator clips or banana jacks or whatever you want on the end. In the case of the 1156 bulbs, each one represents about 2.25 amps. You could add or subtract bulbs depending on the load you're trying to simulate up to almost 14 amps. Pretty handy tool to have. Also works well in place of a fuse when you've got a short to ground. Puts a load in so there's no longer a short and when you find the source of the problem, the bulbs go out.
Thank you Mr. O for all the wisdom you share. I used alligator clips and I made one lead about 2" longer than the other so that there's less chance of an accidental short when the light is just hanging.
Thanks for making these videos. I used a home made test light today. My low current test light showed a relay on a Ford windshield washer working but the motor did not run. I hooked up a 3156 test light and proved the relay would not handle much current. A new relay got things working. You have taught me much about diagnosing electrical problems. I do minor repairs as a side job and enjoy and learn much from your content.
Nice. Also apply +12 volt through a bulb when You want to limit the current. If the test point is shorted to ground the bulb will light up/act as an autofuse preventing fire.
Mr. Eric O, I want you to know that I was in the Zone, saw a can of fluid film near the brake clean & lube spray can's & thought of you! Funny, I never saw it there b4 until I saw you use it on many things! something like a rockstar of automotive repair!
I honestly have been searching for this exact topic the last week. Thanks for the great entertainment and knowledge you share. Most people don not realize the value of your videos . They are fantastic. Thanks.
This video, along with your emphasis on following a plan and splitting the problem into parts has been really valuable in diagnosing an issue with trailer 💡
Old school systems of monitoring 3/phase industrial buildings would use 3 test lights, one on each leg to ground. These were left on all the time in visible areas. If a light started to dim, that leg would be inspected.
Eric, 'Simple' only applies to those that know...those that don't know....'Nothing is simple'.....These video are great and can only increase someone' else knowledge. 'Thanks for Sharing...'
Excellent!!! I use a H4 headlamp light this is set to low at 6 amps and high at low 12 amps. I only use it to test gas pump circuits, chassis ground, positive fuses and also to load the cables of those circuits to see their integrity. regards!!!
By the time Galvanic Corrosion from the dissimilar metals being in contact cause a problem your Great Great Grandchildren will be running the shop. The Crusty Soldering Tip is another story. Great tip SMA.
One of the most fascinating things I find from the various professional, DIY, and personal experience videos on diagnostics and repairs are the divergent methodologies. Obviously, everyone has to use the processes and procedures of personal taste and situation application. For example, a retail shop will most likely throw on a complete set of plug wires even if only one wire is faulty. The object in this case is to solve the current issue and hedge bets the customer won't be back in a week with another aging wire problem. Makes perfect sense. And it's the wise thing to do from the shop and customer's prospective. Me, on my cars? I cut the bad end off the wire, re-crimp, and continue motoring happily for months or years. The same goes for testing. I love all the professional-grade tools. But, I don't require them all that often and the cost for spotty occasional use prohibitive (says the guy with a highly pimped out 20 ton press in the garage). In addition, my speed-to-resolution doesn't need to have the same shortened time constraints as a retail shop. So, I can afford the delay and effort to fabricate probes out of scrap copper Romex, safety wire, shipping box copper plated staples, and alligator clips for each occurrence. Basically, the point of this comment is, keep mindful of the efficient intersection of cost, effort, frequency-of-use, speed-of-solution, end-customer needs, etc., and come up with a situationally optimal solution. Love the videos, by the way. I've learned a ton of valuable information concerning scan-tool/oscope aided diagnostics which will, no doubt, come in mighty handy at some point in the future.
Glad I found this video. I am getting ready to junk an old vehicle, so I removed all of the light bulbs with their connectors in anticipation of making some test lights. I also bought some 10-turn 10-kiloohm potentiometers, so I will make some variable resistors while I am at it. :-)
Eric you kinda reminded me of Red Green in this video but no duct tape, and thats a complement "remember if women dont find you handsome,they should find you handy" keep up the good work.
I have now sourced the parts and made a number of test lights and some back probes with wire and 4mm sockets on then, what a simple and brilliant idea. So far they work as promised, thank you. I did find some small diameter brass tube, 2.5mm OD x 0.5mm wall and crimped a short length of this to the pin before soldering. Stay safe in these difficult times.
Great tips on the test lights. Instead of using an exposed halogen bulb, get a cheap pair of small 55 watt halogen fog/driving light assemblies (usually about $10-$15). Same end result, but without the chance of accidentally burning yourself on a hot bulb or melting something in the interior or under the hood.
Hey Eric, Thanks for the great idea. I made my own and they work great! One is so bright, I use a mirror from the drivers side to see where the light is hooked up on the passenger side of the car underneath.
Eric.... I have made some with a socket attached to a Bulldog Clip and about 4 Feet of Type HPN Heater Cord, that is very flexible neoprene rubber and held together, (zip cord), then you can clip the bulb to a sun visor, window, or body panel where you can see it (and not drop it) as you energize the circuit and/or manipulate the wires to find a problem. I also have a couple of "Tractor Lights" that draw up to 10 Amps and use them in place of a fuse or circuit breaker when looking for a short circuit. Use a 10 Amp bulb in place of a 10 - 30 amp fuse and the wiring is protected. Most loads will NOT fully light the bulb but a Short Circuit will light it full bright. This would make a good video the next time you are looking for a problem that blows a fuse. These ones have about 6 feet of HPN on them so I can position the light where I can see it and still easily reach the fuse position. A very quick and safe way to precisely locate a short circuit, and repeatedly light the bulb without blowing a test breaker.
I use the stackable 4mm banana plugs on my lights and absolutely love them! I've converted almost all of my stuff to 4mm for uniformity. i use a 4mm test lead set that gives me the ability to load a circuit and test at the same time through my lights. And yes they hook up beautifully with the terminal sets! 👍
@A. Melbs doing well 3 years later. So I use 4mm banana plugs on pretty much everything. By having stackable one I can plug several loads together making a much bigger or smaller load as needed. For instance if I have a homemade test light that pulls 2 amps I can stack 2 of them together for a 4 amp load. Now the cool part is if I'm dealing with a bad ground/power I can plug the load inline my meter and load test the circuit. Since most meters are 10M ohm imput impedance they pull very little current off the circuit. Now If I plug in a 300 milliamp light bulb into the circuit with a banana plug adapter kit and then plug the meter into the light I have basically made a low impedance meter. Now most low impedance meters are 3k ohm impedance so this is just a reference on loZ meters. However because I can change the load and a loZ can't I'm able to pull much harder on circuits if needed. For instance I've found corrosive wires in circuits like well pumps that pull 20 amps 220 vac using the idea of loaded circuits. To be honest the fastest way to find those problems is with a pocket dso and a current clamp but don't forget the attenuator 20 to 1 is fine but 100 to 1 is also fine. Hopefully that doesn't confuse the situation farther. These are kind of what I'm using but I can't find the exact ones I purchased. Copied straight off the site. 5Colors Retractable Sheath 4mm Banana Plug Male Stackable Wire Solder DIY Connectors Adapter for Electrical Testing
And it can be used not only for load testing but also as a safe current limiting device while powering anything suspicious or finding a shorted wire . Thanks for your videos!
G'day, Mr. O! Great tip video! Btw, my friend just asked me, if I was having fun doing the laundry. I replied, 'Loads.' Lol!! 🤣 Thank you for doing how to make your own "test lights!!" Cheers! 😊✌🏼🛠💕
if you still have a seat belt warning buzzer (from the days of throwing them mostly away). put some clip leads on it to use it as an audible tester. for those times when you can not see a test light. or have a helper to see it. I have test lights. one is a 1amp dome lamp the others are 100ma dash lamps. sometimes you need a bigger or smaller lamp.
First time comment, long time viewer. I find your videos very helpful. This video helped me ti see what you were using for probes. Thank you so much for taking the time out of your busy schedule to make these videos. I feel like im hoing to tech school each time i watch your videos. I remeber, if you can do it, i can do it.
Clever ! ! Thanks for the exact details on making these things. I've been waiting for this video Eric. I have a couple of old Buick Road master horns perfect for this. Should be good for some fun in the garage
When we were doing tree antenna installs, we used car bulbs to verify voltage & current to the amplifiers. Voltage test means nothing as a corroded connection can let voltage pass, but fails under current load. Climbing up n down from the top of a 100-135' tall fir tree gets annoying just to have to climb up again to find bad connections. It was easy to connect the bulb to the coax and verify connection on the way up . We found a lot of bad coax connections from installers who didn't understand that it rains in Washington State.and you need to fill the connectors with silicone grease (NOT silicon seal), and then use heat shrink tape or silicon seal to seal the connection. (The aquarium grade stuff, not the other type, which can cause corrosion from the chemical outgassing.).
I find that if I use a 1/4" length of .062" ID brass tubing (K&S, available at any hobby shop, most hardware stores, Amazon, etc.) or a non-insulated 22ga butt splice, the soldering goes much faster and is easier. Love the videos of this type; keep coming up with similar vids.
What do you call PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE The answer is South Main Auto Repair ErictheCarGuy was right about South Main Auto Repair Thank you very much very helpful tips information video Take care and have a great day South Main Auto Repair From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
1amp @ 12v = 12w 2amp @ 12v = 24w 3amp @12v = 36w 4amp @ 12v = 48w I see smoke coming off your light... So, a light that draws 4amps @ 12v is consuming almost 50w, and that gets very hot... I don't recommend a plastic shroud, because it could melt or catch fire.. Use a metal cap or sheet metal to make a shield protector for the bulb...
Made one a few days ago the same way except I used the heat shrink adhesive lined butt connectors instead of soldering them, the butt connectors crimp to the cut off t pin perfectly and made it a breeze
That was funny on that cap, I have two of those type of bit,s and man do they work, those bits are with out a doubt expensive, but well worth there weight in gold !
Oh this is great, hopefully I can properly measure the amps with my regular meter. Just bought a donor car, definitely making these, maybe a set for my bro. Thanks!
I made a continuity tester from a radio shack 9 volt 80 db Piezo Pulse Buzzer that works well for tracing broken wires only. I mounted it in a empty plastic drill bit case. made some test leads and used hot glue to secure 9v battery inside the case.
Oh crap. I literally just changed my headlights a few days ago. I saved my bulbs but didn't even think about cutting off the pig tails and making some test lights. The sad part is I've watched all your vids and have seen you use these a hundred times. I'm dead.
after watching so many shows about diagnostics i had been considering test lights instead of the multimeter I use but am really unsure what wattage / amperage to use on what circuits so have avoided it. A little story on that would be great which obviously comes with a disclaimer Thanksfor the know how. Considered making one where you have exchangeable wattage bulbs
I know that these type videos are hard to make in-depth, but could you talk about where you would use a higher amperage load versus a lower one? I've always used a test light to determine continuity.. What purpose would the various amperage ratings serve? Forgive me for my lack of electronic knowledge please, and thanks for trying to make folks smarter!
thanks Eric! great video! i will be doing this! i just use the snap-on classic bulb one! but i got burned on it once with a backup light switch for an international 9000 series causing backup lamps to flicker! spent hours! old guy in shop came up to me and said your test light doesnt draw enough ampage! went from 50ma to 1 amp and found the problem immediately!
I remember a previous video where you worked on Josh's vehicle and the problem was that his class had been using their own cars as test subjects and had been probing the ECM connectors with T-pins, wallowing them out to where they weren't connecting well.
Very helpful. Just ordered my t pins. I'm not sure why some auto circuits use 5 volt references and others are 12. I'm guessing that most sensors are 5 and most mechanicals (pumps,lights, window motors) are 12 volts but not sure of that. Thanks again Eric.
Quick tip Friday. Now that you have that spray cap down pat you can make some Christmas lights for the tire snowman outside the shop. Mrs. O probably wouldn't allow them in the house. Keep on a choochin.
I use the headlamp bulb test light for all kinds of circuit integrity testing to make sure it can carry a load. Last time was on a power windows switch. Switch could handle 12 volts, but couldn't carry the current. (Amps)....lolol
The eas wave kit has the variable resister with banana jack leads. Works well for bypass testing with data pids. Not that I’ve used it to simulate a load. But with ohms law you could use it. The bulbs are much faster for sure.
If you used that resistor and put a load on it, it would go up in smoke. It could be used for, fuel level sensors, temp sensors and the like but NO LOAD!
reminds me of when i accidentally soldered a pipe fitting to a paint can lid that I was using to hold the fitting and it really held on there amazingly well i could not pull it off the steel lid . when i am working on house wiring i like the radio tester plug it in and you can listen to when it goes off and on. you could probably do same thing with a 12 volt radio better then listening to a car horn lol
Great tips, Mr O. But I would recommend you install the require fuse in series to protect the light bulb. Otherwise, the bulb will blow! Rather have the fuse blown than the bulb!
*200 Pieces Stainless Steel T-Pins, 38mm/1.5inch - amzn.to/2M84PYo
*Lisle 55000 Wire Holder Assembly - amzn.to/2OKQU99
*60/40 Tin Lead Solder Wire with Rosin - amzn.to/2KsvY39
*Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron Pen - amzn.to/2MjORqJ
South Main Auto Repair you are the best my amigo
South Main Auto Repair what is the heat shrink that you use?
Corey Buhl I would say anything that is marine grade. Why? Because they have a glue within, that when heated also makes a good water tight seal and it doesn't slide. I find regular shrink wrap does an OK job, but when handled a lot, the tube slides no longer protecting the joint or bare wire.
Whats the heat shrink part number or link? Thanks
South Main Auto Repair Eric, I just watched your video from December 12 2015. Ford (used) ECM replacement. In that video you couldn't rewrite the VIN number into the used ECM. I realize that some time has passed since you made that video and you may have figured it out. But, I found another great Tech that I enjoy watching also and he has it figured out. Take a look at Fordtechmakuloco video "Save money using a junkyard ECM. Don't let the dealer tell you it can't be done." I hope this is of use to you! Keep up the good work!
As a middle aged married male with children I really enjoy making test lights on Friday and Saturday nights. We make it a family affair and sit around a 12 volt battery and try them out for fun. Brightest bulb wins! Quality family time together, thank you Eric O.
😆 😅 😂 🤣
Awesome idea
I blow up boiler controls at my kitchen table. My Jamaican roommate thinks I am am demon possessed.
I'm a John Deere dealer construction tech, and I Made a set of these very load lights after watching you in very beginning of your channel start. Love them very fast on diagnostic with electral repair. Thanks man love your channel.👍
After watching this I went to the junk yard. Grabbed a couple light bulb and sockets. They didn’t even charge me. Thanks Eric! Very cool.
My main load substitution tool is a plastic Project Box with six holes drilled in it and fitted with 1156 sockets. 1157s work even better but I was sent these by mistake and didn't catch it until I couldn't return them. You wire the six sockets in parallel and can even add banana jacks on the side of the box for a convenient voltage drop test point. Then you run wires out the other side of the box and put alligator clips or banana jacks or whatever you want on the end. In the case of the 1156 bulbs, each one represents about 2.25 amps. You could add or subtract bulbs depending on the load you're trying to simulate up to almost 14 amps. Pretty handy tool to have. Also works well in place of a fuse when you've got a short to ground. Puts a load in so there's no longer a short and when you find the source of the problem, the bulbs go out.
Thank you Mr. O for all the wisdom you share. I used alligator clips and I made one lead about 2" longer than the other so that there's less chance of an accidental short when the light is just hanging.
PVC pipe end caps work well , small sheet metal screws will hole the lamp base in place !
Thanks for making these videos. I used a home made test light today.
My low current test light showed a relay on a Ford windshield washer working but the motor did not run. I hooked up a 3156 test light and proved the relay would not handle much current.
A new relay got things working. You have taught me much about diagnosing electrical problems.
I do minor repairs as a side job and enjoy and learn much from your content.
I like finding "car crumbs" at intersections where accidents occurred and harvesting these parts from the weeds.
Nice. Also apply +12 volt through a bulb when You want to limit the current. If the test point is shorted to ground the bulb will light up/act as an autofuse preventing fire.
Mr. Eric O, I want you to know that I was in the Zone, saw a can of fluid film near the brake clean & lube spray can's & thought of you! Funny, I never saw it there b4 until I saw you use it on many things! something like a rockstar of automotive repair!
So glad to find out that the first time I ever taught of looking for a video like this, and who jumps to the front with it? "The Erick O" 18:10
I honestly have been searching for this exact topic the last week. Thanks for the great entertainment and knowledge you share. Most people don not realize the value of your videos . They are fantastic. Thanks.
If I can do it, you can too. Love the testers!!
This video, along with your emphasis on following a plan and splitting the problem into parts has been really valuable in diagnosing an issue with trailer 💡
you are so right about shrinking heat tube satisfaction
Being a truck mechanic, I used the sealed incandescent lights with the plugins on the back. I crimped on pins or alligator clips to the wire.
Old school systems of monitoring 3/phase industrial buildings would use 3 test lights, one on each leg to ground. These were left on all the time in visible areas. If a light started to dim, that leg would be inspected.
Eric, 'Simple' only applies to those that know...those that don't know....'Nothing is simple'.....These video are great and can only increase someone' else knowledge. 'Thanks for Sharing...'
Excellent!!! I use a H4 headlamp light this is set to low at 6 amps and high at low 12 amps. I only use it to test gas pump circuits, chassis ground, positive fuses and also to load the cables of those circuits to see their integrity. regards!!!
smahts, very smahtzzzzz ;)
By the time Galvanic Corrosion from the dissimilar metals being in contact cause a problem your Great Great Grandchildren will be running the shop. The Crusty Soldering Tip is another story. Great tip SMA.
Eric should totally watch Bigclive on how to solder wires to pins.
The cap was a missed opportunity for a brake clean appearance.
One of the most fascinating things I find from the various professional, DIY, and personal experience videos on diagnostics and repairs are the divergent methodologies.
Obviously, everyone has to use the processes and procedures of personal taste and situation application.
For example, a retail shop will most likely throw on a complete set of plug wires even if only one wire is faulty. The object in this case is to solve the current issue and hedge bets the customer won't be back in a week with another aging wire problem. Makes perfect sense. And it's the wise thing to do from the shop and customer's prospective.
Me, on my cars? I cut the bad end off the wire, re-crimp, and continue motoring happily for months or years.
The same goes for testing. I love all the professional-grade tools. But, I don't require them all that often and the cost for spotty occasional use prohibitive (says the guy with a highly pimped out 20 ton press in the garage). In addition, my speed-to-resolution doesn't need to have the same shortened time constraints as a retail shop. So, I can afford the delay and effort to fabricate probes out of scrap copper Romex, safety wire, shipping box copper plated staples, and alligator clips for each occurrence.
Basically, the point of this comment is, keep mindful of the efficient intersection of cost, effort, frequency-of-use, speed-of-solution, end-customer needs, etc., and come up with a situationally optimal solution.
Love the videos, by the way. I've learned a ton of valuable information concerning scan-tool/oscope aided diagnostics which will, no doubt, come in mighty handy at some point in the future.
Glad I found this video. I am getting ready to junk an old vehicle, so I removed all of the light bulbs with their connectors in anticipation of making some test lights. I also bought some 10-turn 10-kiloohm potentiometers, so I will make some variable resistors while I am at it. :-)
Thanks!
Eric you kinda reminded me of Red Green in this video but no duct tape, and thats a complement "remember if women dont find you handsome,they should find you handy" keep up the good work.
I have now sourced the parts and made a number of test lights and some back probes with wire and 4mm sockets on then, what a simple and brilliant idea. So far they work as promised, thank you. I did find some small diameter brass tube, 2.5mm OD x 0.5mm wall and crimped a short length of this to the pin before soldering.
Stay safe in these difficult times.
@A. Melbs they are electrical plugs that are 4mm in diameter. they are the size used on most multi meters.
Great tips on the test lights. Instead of using an exposed halogen bulb, get a cheap pair of small 55 watt halogen fog/driving light assemblies (usually about $10-$15). Same end result, but without the chance of accidentally burning yourself on a hot bulb or melting something in the interior or under the hood.
great for checking power and ground under load and checking for short circuits
Some great tips here. I like to use bannana clips staight on the test lead and use this to plug into ali clips or meter probes etc.
Simple but very useful tip. Amazing what you can create with a little junk and a soldering iron.
Hey Eric, Thanks for the great idea. I made my own and they work great! One is so bright, I use a mirror from the drivers side to see where the light is hooked up on the passenger side of the car underneath.
Low medium and high amp test light set by SMA $10. By well known automotive tool manufacturer $200
Love the holder you used, maybe I'll make one too!
Like the way you are thinking Eric.Now i am retired i would like to be my teacher in my younger days lol.Keep up the good work.
Good shiz man. Comprehensive. Glad you zoomed in so we could see what u were soldering. Handy stuff - gonna check ur other vids in future.
Eric.... I have made some with a socket attached to a Bulldog Clip and about 4 Feet of Type HPN Heater Cord, that is very flexible neoprene rubber and held together, (zip cord), then you can clip the bulb to a sun visor, window, or body panel where you can see it (and not drop it) as you energize the circuit and/or manipulate the wires to find a problem. I also have a couple of "Tractor Lights" that draw up to 10 Amps and use them in place of a fuse or circuit breaker when looking for a short circuit. Use a 10 Amp bulb in place of a 10 - 30 amp fuse and the wiring is protected. Most loads will NOT fully light the bulb but a Short Circuit will light it full bright. This would make a good video the next time you are looking for a problem that blows a fuse. These ones have about 6 feet of HPN on them so I can position the light where I can see it and still easily reach the fuse position. A very quick and safe way to precisely locate a short circuit, and repeatedly light the bulb without blowing a test breaker.
"Brilliant" idea. Thanks, Eric!
I use the stackable 4mm banana plugs on my lights and absolutely love them! I've converted almost all of my stuff to 4mm for uniformity. i use a 4mm test lead set that gives me the ability to load a circuit and test at the same time through my lights. And yes they hook up beautifully with the terminal sets! 👍
@A. Melbs doing well 3 years later. So I use 4mm banana plugs on pretty much everything. By having stackable one I can plug several loads together making a much bigger or smaller load as needed. For instance if I have a homemade test light that pulls 2 amps I can stack 2 of them together for a 4 amp load. Now the cool part is if I'm dealing with a bad ground/power I can plug the load inline my meter and load test the circuit. Since most meters are 10M ohm imput impedance they pull very little current off the circuit. Now If I plug in a 300 milliamp light bulb into the circuit with a banana plug adapter kit and then plug the meter into the light I have basically made a low impedance meter. Now most low impedance meters are 3k ohm impedance so this is just a reference on loZ meters. However because I can change the load and a loZ can't I'm able to pull much harder on circuits if needed. For instance I've found corrosive wires in circuits like well pumps that pull 20 amps 220 vac using the idea of loaded circuits. To be honest the fastest way to find those problems is with a pocket dso and a current clamp but don't forget the attenuator 20 to 1 is fine but 100 to 1 is also fine. Hopefully that doesn't confuse the situation farther. These are kind of what I'm using but I can't find the exact ones I purchased. Copied straight off the site.
5Colors Retractable Sheath 4mm Banana Plug Male Stackable Wire Solder DIY Connectors Adapter for Electrical Testing
And it can be used not only for load testing but also as a safe current limiting device while powering anything suspicious or finding a shorted wire . Thanks for your videos!
hmmm that sounds like a familiar approach in repairing a certain piece of construction machinery ;)
G'day, Mr. O! Great tip video! Btw, my friend just asked me, if I was having fun doing the laundry. I replied, 'Loads.' Lol!! 🤣 Thank you for doing how to make your own "test lights!!" Cheers! 😊✌🏼🛠💕
if you still have a seat belt warning buzzer (from the days of throwing them mostly away). put some clip leads on it to use it as an audible tester. for those times when you can not see a test light. or have a helper to see it. I have test lights. one is a 1amp dome lamp the others are 100ma dash lamps. sometimes you need a bigger or smaller lamp.
First time comment, long time viewer. I find your videos very helpful. This video helped me ti see what you were using for probes.
Thank you so much for taking the time out of your busy schedule to make these videos.
I feel like im hoing to tech school each time i watch your videos.
I remeber, if you can do it, i can do it.
Clever ! ! Thanks for the exact details on making these things. I've been waiting for this video Eric. I have a couple of old Buick Road master horns perfect for this. Should be good for some fun in the garage
When we were doing tree antenna installs, we used car bulbs to verify voltage & current to the amplifiers. Voltage test means nothing as a corroded connection can let voltage pass, but fails under current load. Climbing up n down from the top of a 100-135' tall fir tree gets annoying just to have to climb up again to find bad connections. It was easy to connect the bulb to the coax and verify connection on the way up
. We found a lot of bad coax connections from installers who didn't understand that it rains in Washington State.and you need to fill the connectors with silicone grease (NOT silicon seal), and then use heat shrink tape or silicon seal to seal the connection. (The aquarium grade stuff, not the other type, which can cause corrosion from the chemical outgassing.).
Very inexpensive tester!! Great idea.. keep the tips coming! Really enjoy your channel....
Sma mood lighting, oh yeah!
Thanks for the tip south main auto🙏🔧
Very informative and useful video especially for the diyer! GREAT JOB!
I find that if I use a 1/4" length of .062" ID brass tubing (K&S, available at any hobby shop, most hardware stores, Amazon, etc.) or a non-insulated 22ga butt splice, the soldering goes much faster and is easier. Love the videos of this type; keep coming up with similar vids.
What do you call PRODIGY and SUBSTANTIAL and KNOWLEDGEABLE
The answer is South Main Auto Repair
ErictheCarGuy was right about
South Main Auto Repair
Thank you very much very helpful tips information video
Take care and have a great day
South Main Auto Repair
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
1amp @ 12v = 12w
2amp @ 12v = 24w
3amp @12v = 36w
4amp @ 12v = 48w
I see smoke coming off your light...
So, a light that draws 4amps @ 12v is consuming almost 50w, and that gets very hot...
I don't recommend a plastic shroud, because it could melt or catch fire..
Use a metal cap or sheet metal to make a shield protector for the bulb...
Made one a few days ago the same way except I used the heat shrink adhesive lined butt connectors instead of soldering them, the butt connectors crimp to the cut off t pin perfectly and made it a breeze
Another great tip. Thanks again
That was funny on that cap, I have two of those type of bit,s and man do they work, those bits are with out a doubt expensive, but well worth there weight in gold !
Im a new sub and thanks for all your videos. Saved me a hassle and tought me a few new tricks.
Love them wire strippers! Need to get me a pair of them!
Oh this is great, hopefully I can properly measure the amps with my regular meter. Just bought a donor car, definitely making these, maybe a set for my bro. Thanks!
I made a continuity tester from a radio shack 9 volt 80 db Piezo Pulse Buzzer that works well for tracing broken wires only. I mounted it in a empty plastic drill bit case. made some test leads and used hot glue to secure 9v battery inside the case.
I just found this video. Great video. You are a great resource. Thanks for the helpful tip.
Another good tool to have, use an old blower motor and solder the trailer end of a 7 pin or a 4 pin to it
Oh crap. I literally just changed my headlights a few days ago. I saved my bulbs but didn't even think about cutting off the pig tails and making some test lights. The sad part is I've watched all your vids and have seen you use these a hundred times. I'm dead.
Also I enjoy your shows even though I'm not a mechanic.
after watching so many shows about diagnostics i had been considering test lights instead of the multimeter I use but am really unsure what wattage / amperage to use on what circuits so have avoided it. A little story on that would be great which obviously comes with a disclaimer Thanksfor the know how. Considered making one where you have exchangeable wattage bulbs
Thanks Eric, I will be making few of these for my garage.
Thank you for all that you do
I know that these type videos are hard to make in-depth, but could you talk about where you would use a higher amperage load versus a lower one? I've always used a test light to determine continuity.. What purpose would the various amperage ratings serve? Forgive me for my lack of electronic knowledge please, and thanks for trying to make folks smarter!
I like that NHRA sticker in the background.
Excellent video as usual, very useful.
I love the smell of rosin-core solder!
thanks Eric! great video! i will be doing this! i just use the snap-on classic bulb one! but i got burned on it once with a backup light switch for an international 9000 series causing backup lamps to flicker! spent hours! old guy in shop came up to me and said your test light doesnt draw enough ampage! went from 50ma to 1 amp and found the problem immediately!
Have you ever used a seam ripper? I like it better than a utility knife. two bucks at walmart.
I remember a previous video where you worked on Josh's vehicle and the problem was that his class had been using their own cars as test subjects and had been probing the ECM connectors with T-pins, wallowing them out to where they weren't connecting well.
Thanks, you’re a Prince of a fella.
Hot stuff! 💥 ...and remember if Dr Eric can do it you can do it.
I was looking for this video. THANK YOU.
Very helpful. Just ordered my t pins. I'm not sure why some auto circuits use 5 volt references and others are 12. I'm guessing that most sensors are 5 and most mechanicals (pumps,lights, window motors) are 12 volts but not sure of that. Thanks again Eric.
Quick tip Friday. Now that you have that spray cap down pat you can make some Christmas lights for the tire snowman outside the shop. Mrs. O probably wouldn't allow them in the house. Keep on a choochin.
YOUR THE MAN ERIC
Great video eric love your lantern
Great tip!
Great stuff Eric
I use the headlamp bulb test light for all kinds of circuit integrity testing to make sure it can carry a load. Last time was on a power windows switch. Switch could handle 12 volts, but couldn't carry the current. (Amps)....lolol
I wondered how you use them and made them. Great video.
The eas wave kit has the variable resister with banana jack leads. Works well for bypass testing with data pids. Not that I’ve used it to simulate a load. But with ohms law you could use it. The bulbs are much faster for sure.
If you used that resistor and put a load on it, it would go up in smoke. It could be used for, fuel level sensors, temp sensors and the like but NO LOAD!
Yea. Wattage rating is a factor for sure. Haha haven’t looked at what it’s rating is. Probably not much more that a Christmas tree bulb.
reminds me of when i accidentally soldered a pipe fitting to a paint can lid that I was using to hold the fitting and it really held on there amazingly well i could not pull it off the steel lid . when i am working on house wiring i like the radio tester plug it in and you can listen to when it goes off and on. you could probably do same thing with a 12 volt radio better then listening to a car horn lol
Awesome Video Mr O
Thanks Eric, Now I can make some tools I can afford
I feel enlightened:)
Brilliant video
Made a special tips/hacks playlist just for these SMA shorts.
Very Cool Tip...… Thanks Eric!
Great video Eric thanks for sharing with us.
the old style head-light or aftermarket light assemblies were great for such testing, although a bit bulky :)
now with all the LED junk >_>
Soldering pins on to wires, still puts the heat shrink on first.
Ladies and gentlemen, that's why Eric does the work, and we do the watching.
Good idea for cheap test lights.
Thanks Eric
Great job again
Thank you for sharing.Great infor.
Great idea 👍👍👍👍👍💯
I have been using lights like this for years, love it , works for me.
great video, great tip. keep rocking Eric.
Great tips, Mr O.
But I would recommend you install the require fuse in series to protect the light bulb. Otherwise, the bulb will blow! Rather have the fuse blown than the bulb!
fuse doesn't stop a bulb from blowing