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The glass mobile is a great idea! I thought of using it in some kind of Tiffany glass art piece, although I haven't worked with glass so that might be somewhat in the future.

Yes. If you don't invert the image the resulting print will be a negative.

@@JulianSandro I appreciate you 🙏 would you happen to know if you can set the cyanotype so it doesn’t wash out ? Or is that necessary?

@@ivermectin3191 A standard Cyanotype will always be sensitive to water. But you could use the "Solarfast" products by Jacquard. These are not only available in multiple different colors but can also be set on paper or fabric so you can put them in the washer. They work more or less the same as Cyanotypes, just follow the instructions on the packaging

@@JulianSandro one more question, cause I’m like that😂😂 … have you ever heard of anyone applying “never wet” to cyanotype after producing one? If not I may try that and upload the outcome…..

@@ivermectin3191 I haven't heard of that but I'm super curious. Definitely let me know how it turns out!

During my experiments, this was mostly the case when the emulsion wasn't completely dry or too thick. Ultimately, I ended up drying the coated piece of glass overnight. I achieved a thinner coating by heating up the glass plate to about the temperature of the emulsion. That way it would be less viscous, allowing me to spread it more thinly. Also, make sure to clean the glass plates before applying the emulsion. If none of these things help you might even consider using less gelatine. This will also allow you to spread it more thinly. I hope that helps!

@@JulianSandro Thank you so much. I will give it another try. I think I may have added too much gelatin and let it dry longer.

Sounds Great!

The emulsion is directly applied to the glass, but yes it is very much prone to scratches. Maybe you'd be able to seal the print with a coat of resin, but I haven't tried that yet. Hope that helps!

I haven't done that yet. Although I have done some experimentation, it is a bit more difficult than anticipated. Sorry.

Sunlight will work fine! Best on a cloudless day.

You don't need a product to fix the image. The gelantine will actually get quite hard so just let it dry.

Sounds terrible. Have you tried using more absorbent paper?

No offense intended, but I don't believe your tap water is the problem. An image washing away is usually attributable to inadequate exposure time or insufficiently prepared paper; that is, a paper the emulsion isn't able to be absorbed by. Best wishes from Vermont 🍁

@@TheStockwell No. It is the pH 9 tap water with the calcium. See "Cyanomicon" by Dr. Ware. Just moving to distilled water fixed the issue.

@@TheStockwellany idea what happens if you use a regular photo transparency versus one that has been switched to negative transparency

@@TheStockwellif you say it turns out to look like a negative IM GOING TO HAVE A LOT OF FUN THIS WEEK

The paper not only has to be water resistant but also needs to absorb the emulsion in just the right way. So it was easier to use the paper I always use instead of looking for some red watercolor paper. But thanks for the info on the gold leaf!

I have yet to master making a digital negative. I can't get the toner dense enough with the one laser printer I have access to, and my inkjet doesn't work with transparencies. In the meantime, I've been doing photograms and contact printing medium format negatives.

@@RickLeMon A trick I've heard of is to print the same digital negative two times and stack them on top of each other, this should help with the toner density issue. Hope that helps!

I use transparent film typically used for overhead projectors. I then use my inkjet printer to print the negative photograph onto them. For more details you can watch this video: th-cam.com/video/2xqkIqRpMEA/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!

@@JulianSandro alright, noted. thank you for sharing!

The mixture is only light-sensitive when it's dry. So no need for red light while mixing!

Thanks for the Praise. As for your questions: There is no manual mode on the Polaroid Cameras I use, just full automatic. The only way to adjust the exposure is with a little wheel for exposure compensation. The App I use is called Light Meter (I use the free version for Android). Make sure to calibrate the App. The easiest way is by comparing the exposure of your DSLR and the values in the App while pointing the camera and the smartphone at the same scene. Then adjust the value on the bottom left until the values of your camera match the values in the App. If you want a camera that closely resembles the features of a modern digital camera I'd recommend buying one of the latest Polaroid cameras like the i-2 or now. If you want a cheap camera that performs well in low light I'd recommend a Polaroid 600 camera (I actually use the Polaroid Supercolor 635 in this video). If you want a foldable camera that's good for landscapes and has manual focusing I'd recommend the Polaroid SX-70 (I made a video about that one: th-cam.com/video/-djh9oVg9o0/w-d-xo.html). If you want a modded vintage Polaroid camera you might look into the MiNT Polaroid Cameras. Hope that helps!

Although I haven't used anything other than tea or coffee, all tannin-containing fluids/dyes should work. So try experimenting with pomegranate or cocoa. And please let me know how it turns out!

Sounds great. Definitely gonna try that next time

It's definitely not machine-washable. But you should be able to clean it in hand warm tap water. If you want something you can put in the washer, maybe look into the solar fast products by jacquard. Hope that Helps!

@@JulianSandronever heard of solar fast, thanks a lot.

Thanks for the info! I'm gonna try that next time.

Nice to hear. Thank you!

I either use transparencies for overhead projectors or screenprinting. Over the years I've tried a lot of different ones and all worked, so don't worry too much. I use a standard office ink jet printer to print on them. Hope that helps!