When cutting bolts (like on the Tesla master cylinder), always thread a good nut down before cutting. This gives you a way to chase the threads after buggering them up. Also, before removing the nut, put a slight radius/chamfer on the end of the just-cut threads to make starting a nut easy. Next, to eliminate using so many plates stacked together, use allen-socket flat-head screws with locktite for the plate on the firewall... or wherever a mating plate needs to be mounted...eliminating the need for clearance holes. Flush-head screws can't loosen if the plate mounted against it blocks it from backing out. Next - you should never "push" a double-jointed pivot... it's a bit like pushing a rope. You got away with it because your two pivot points axis' are rotated 90° from each other... but if the lock-nut ever gets loose, and the master cylinder push-rod rotates, the pivot axis will find alignment, and you will have a TOTAL LOSS OF BRAKES. You should extend the master cylinder push-rod, or simply weld a piece of flat thick metal onto the brake pedal attachment point, never use series-swivel-joints in a PUSH application.
When dealing with LED bulbs for headlights, I definitely do NOT recommend installing them in reflector headlight housings as shown here. Such housings are designed for halogen bulbs only, and tossing LEDs in there will produce a LOT more light and that extra light gets scattered all over the place and ends up blinding oncoming traffic or anyone that happens to be in front of you. Projector headlight housings are a lot better at containing all that extra light since all the light has to pass through the lens, as well as the cutoff shield inside the headlight to limit the light output up high during low beam operation. I see far too many vehicles on the road where someone just tossed LED bulbs into their factory halogen reflector headlights and end up being so bright it's almost worse than driving around with their high beams on. Rather than just tossing LED bulbs into old housings, I always recommend finding aftermarket headlight housings with projectors if they exist, and if not, it's also possible to retrofit projectors into reflector housings. Sure it costs more than just buying bulbs, but it's far better than blinding people every time you're out driving.
i love having yellow lights when its snowing since white light tends to reflect more of the snow and blind you easier but for normal days the white light is so much better.
One question about the coupler extension on the brake pedal - Isn't there a risk of buckling the linkage now that you have two clevises and two pins? If not buckling, won't it potentially put weird side loads on the master cylinder?
@electricsupercar great build so far, it's fun to follow along. I have done fuel injected engine swaps in the past, but now that I'm an EV owner, the challenge of an EV conversion sounds somewhat feasible.
I have a similar concern. That one looks like it will bend to the side under hard axial load. It may then damage the master cylinder boot, or it might bend or jam. The best solution is to just make a longer one-piece push rod. If this is problematic, you could cut the old one and extend it with a sleave and some welding. Bear in mind that under panic braking the push rod could be carrying something like 600 - 800 lb in axial load. It needs to be dead straight. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
I liked your explanation of teh brake system an especcially that you touched on the lever ratio of the brake pedal. You don't hear that very often. When cutting screws, a small trick is to do so with a nut threaded on, when you take that nut off after cutting, it reforms the thread that might have gotten a bit mangled by the cut.
Another great video, Jeremy! Lots of useful information for the DIY people. I hope you are having a great week and Merry Christmas to you and yours if you celebrate.
the clevis and rod end extension is....not safe. thats a very scary setup. the end of the ibooster clevis is threaded on, making a threaded extension is quite straight forward....why go with rod ends?
I freaking love this channel! I've learned so much from you! My dream is to electro-mod my 77 Chevy K10 by using all Tesla parts from a salvaged Model S. Cant wait to find the right car and jump in head first! Keep up the great work!
You might be able to drop that third plate for the brakes if you use recessed heads on the bolts going though the firewall. Also, it the reservoir going to clear the hood on the Toyota? Edit: You could get it down to 1 plate if the holes for the bolts leaving enough material to hold the mc and 4 countersunk threaded holes to go though the firewall. Use some locktite red to keep the countersunk bolts from backing out when attaching to the firewall. Not sure how much a cost difference that would be, but considering that if you have a drill press, you could order with just the 4 holes needed for connecting to the mc, then you could drill the 4 countersunk holes for the needed vehicle.
@@electricsupercarI can’t remember the exact design but you should be able to remove the original input shaft and do a proper extension, maybe even keeping some adjustment via a threaded section
Jeremy, do you have a masters in design engineering? Maybe byu needs to watch a few of your videos and award you with one. I am constantly amazed at how fast you are evolving. 😮 well done.
Awesome video 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 Your adaptor plates looks so much easier to deal than cutting the firewall. Just one thing, I got lost because you were working on three different cars. Maybe you should make more clear what car you were working on a specific part of the video.
Been awhile since I messed with one of those (was off a Mercedes something), but that part with the square bolt pattern comes off as well... You should just make a piece that replaces that cast piece, would save more space and probably wouldn't need the extension for the brake pedal. Good work on an adapter stack though!
And if you can't already see it from your camera view back, the LED bulb light is scattered everywhere because the old lenses are not designed for LEDs. So now your customer will be blinding everybody. Thanks!!! After market LED headlight conversions should be banned.
Great analysis, thank you! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Are these "Tesla" brake boosters still the Bosch iBooster or did they switch to something proprietary? The iBooster is used in many cars besides Tesla.
Please make sure your LED bulb replacement is not blonding oncoming traffic. Sometimes LED replacements throw way too much light too high and blind everyone.
I’m not a fan of the chinese part infomercials mid video… 1 paid ad is enough my friend… Also, if your design is 1 size fits all, that means it’s not optimized to the point it should be Wheel nut spacers can match patterns in under an inch. 3/4 plate with grade 8/10.9 studs should be able to adapt the majority of patterns
“To the point it should be ..” is defined by the customer, and guided by provider, regulators. If the kit meets time, price, aesthetic, and functional needs… it’s a win. Joe just an episode on this tradeoff on BPS Space channel. Is it possible for Jeremy’s universal adaptor blocks to be optimized, likely. And he’ll probably pursue iterating if there is interest/need.
You take way too long and make the process overly complicated. It's not rocket science adapting a master cylinder all you need is a steel plate secured to the inside of the firewall with the new hole spacing easy peasy.
When cutting bolts (like on the Tesla master cylinder), always thread a good nut down before cutting. This gives you a way to chase the threads after buggering them up. Also, before removing the nut, put a slight radius/chamfer on the end of the just-cut threads to make starting a nut easy.
Next, to eliminate using so many plates stacked together, use allen-socket flat-head screws with locktite for the plate on the firewall... or wherever a mating plate needs to be mounted...eliminating the need for clearance holes. Flush-head screws can't loosen if the plate mounted against it blocks it from backing out.
Next - you should never "push" a double-jointed pivot... it's a bit like pushing a rope. You got away with it because your two pivot points axis' are rotated 90° from each other... but if the lock-nut ever gets loose, and the master cylinder push-rod rotates, the pivot axis will find alignment, and you will have a TOTAL LOSS OF BRAKES.
You should extend the master cylinder push-rod, or simply weld a piece of flat thick metal onto the brake pedal attachment point, never use series-swivel-joints in a PUSH application.
I was thinking the same thing.
Good points!
When dealing with LED bulbs for headlights, I definitely do NOT recommend installing them in reflector headlight housings as shown here. Such housings are designed for halogen bulbs only, and tossing LEDs in there will produce a LOT more light and that extra light gets scattered all over the place and ends up blinding oncoming traffic or anyone that happens to be in front of you. Projector headlight housings are a lot better at containing all that extra light since all the light has to pass through the lens, as well as the cutoff shield inside the headlight to limit the light output up high during low beam operation. I see far too many vehicles on the road where someone just tossed LED bulbs into their factory halogen reflector headlights and end up being so bright it's almost worse than driving around with their high beams on. Rather than just tossing LED bulbs into old housings, I always recommend finding aftermarket headlight housings with projectors if they exist, and if not, it's also possible to retrofit projectors into reflector housings. Sure it costs more than just buying bulbs, but it's far better than blinding people every time you're out driving.
Brighter light doesn't mean you don't still see the shadows of the center frame in your beam pattern too.
They make reflector housing specific LED bulbs. I have some in my truck. They still have the cutoff so you dont blind everyone.
Quit watching a different channels EV build to watch this once I saw it in my feed! Let's go! 1st hour gang here!!
🙌
i love having yellow lights when its snowing since white light tends to reflect more of the snow and blind you easier but for normal days the white light is so much better.
One question about the coupler extension on the brake pedal - Isn't there a risk of buckling the linkage now that you have two clevises and two pins?
If not buckling, won't it potentially put weird side loads on the master cylinder?
I'll have to fix it
@electricsupercar great build so far, it's fun to follow along. I have done fuel injected engine swaps in the past, but now that I'm an EV owner, the challenge of an EV conversion sounds somewhat feasible.
@@keithviolette5870 Yes, I plan to weld to fix one side
I have a similar concern. That one looks like it will bend to the side under hard axial load. It may then damage the master cylinder boot, or it might bend or jam. The best solution is to just make a longer one-piece push rod. If this is problematic, you could cut the old one and extend it with a sleave and some welding. Bear in mind that under panic braking the push rod could be carrying something like 600 - 800 lb in axial load. It needs to be dead straight. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
@@electricsupercar You are such a great example of humility and abnegation. Thanks for your inspiring builds and your improvement mindset!
Neat adapter kit setup. It was cool to see it in use in two builds.
Anytime cutting bolts leave the nuts on when you cut so if there’s any damage to the threads they’ll get straightened out upon removing the bolts.
Good call!
I liked your explanation of teh brake system an especcially that you touched on the lever ratio of the brake pedal. You don't hear that very often.
When cutting screws, a small trick is to do so with a nut threaded on, when you take that nut off after cutting, it reforms the thread that might have gotten a bit mangled by the cut.
good call
Another great video, Jeremy! Lots of useful information for the DIY people. I hope you are having a great week and Merry Christmas to you and yours if you celebrate.
Thanks, you as well!
the clevis and rod end extension is....not safe. thats a very scary setup. the end of the ibooster clevis is threaded on, making a threaded extension is quite straight forward....why go with rod ends?
I was thinking the same. Having another pivot in there means it can flex out of line. It needs to be a solid connection.
@@ThingsBreak yes its very very dangerous what he has done
Great video. Those units are bulletproof. They RARELY have issues, strong choice. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Appreciate it, you too!
The end was the best part, because it made me smile. Next time, fetch in the yard in the beginning of the video.
I freaking love this channel! I've learned so much from you! My dream is to electro-mod my 77 Chevy K10 by using all Tesla parts from a salvaged Model S. Cant wait to find the right car and jump in head first! Keep up the great work!
That’s awesome! Good luck with the project!
Jeremy, NICE Video, I think it was easy to follow, especially for a person learning about cars .
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful!
Your videos are very informative, thanks for keeping us entertained.
Appreciate it!
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Pretty interesting and you can make business by selling those assembly 😎😎😎
Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Appreciate the support!
Loving this build series. Super informative
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your work Jeremy ... keep it going. Great information. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Thanks!
Your channel It's truly instructions how to do that 😮
Commenting for the engagement! Great video. Glad you're refining your processes. Merry Christmas!
Thank you! You too!
This almost felt like an episode of the Action Lab.... we got some science and some entertainment. :)
👍
If anyone ever needed a sponsorship deal with a laser cleaning company, it’s this guy. 😊
I know, right?!?
when you cut a bolt like that thread a nut on first then removing the nut will clean up the wonky threads from cutting.
That's a great tip, thanks!
@electricsupercar no problem. thanks for the quality content
You might be able to drop that third plate for the brakes if you use recessed heads on the bolts going though the firewall. Also, it the reservoir going to clear the hood on the Toyota?
Edit: You could get it down to 1 plate if the holes for the bolts leaving enough material to hold the mc and 4 countersunk threaded holes to go though the firewall. Use some locktite red to keep the countersunk bolts from backing out when attaching to the firewall. Not sure how much a cost difference that would be, but considering that if you have a drill press, you could order with just the 4 holes needed for connecting to the mc, then you could drill the 4 countersunk holes for the needed vehicle.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll look into that!
I hope I missed something but you seem to have a joint in the middle of your brake input pushrod, this MUST be rigid or it will buckle under load...
I had the exact same concern
When it does who would be responsible? The owner or the person that made the modifications?
Welding in process
@@electricsupercarI can’t remember the exact design but you should be able to remove the original input shaft and do a proper extension, maybe even keeping some adjustment via a threaded section
@@ricolaracing good call
You could use some sandblasting cabinet for cleaning rust and welds
Absolutely!
Great video❤❤
Thank you!!
Jeremy, do you have a masters in design engineering? Maybe byu needs to watch a few of your videos and award you with one. I am constantly amazed at how fast you are evolving. 😮 well done.
Wow! Thanks!
Awesome video 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Your adaptor plates looks so much easier to deal than cutting the firewall.
Just one thing, I got lost because you were working on three different cars. Maybe you should make more clear what car you were working on a specific part of the video.
I agree, I should have made it clearer what car I was working on. I'll do a better job of that in future videos.
1 hour gang!
"When you're pushed, braking is as easy as breathing." - Rambo
In the Toyota it looks like the gap where the motor was is wide enough you could stand there when you work on the brake booster 😂
Absolutely
Love your videos! Ask the sponsor to get the Amazon voucher working for the Europeans viewers as well.
That's a great idea!
Been awhile since I messed with one of those (was off a Mercedes something), but that part with the square bolt pattern comes off as well... You should just make a piece that replaces that cast piece, would save more space and probably wouldn't need the extension for the brake pedal.
Good work on an adapter stack though!
I appreciate the feedback, I'll keep that in mind for future designs.
This would be awesome on a GM squarebody
👍
GREAT WORK... Maybe some day you get yourself a sandblasting chamber, you know - to get the rust off the brake pedal... :-)
That would be awesome
Your pup is a great helper! Them kisses keep you motivated ❤
Thanks! He's a huge help.
And if you can't already see it from your camera view back, the LED bulb light is scattered everywhere because the old lenses are not designed for LEDs. So now your customer will be blinding everybody. Thanks!!!
After market LED headlight conversions should be banned.
Great analysis, thank you! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
I've been looking, but which video has the on ear headphones as the sponsor?
th-cam.com/video/eV0RcBEFLQo/w-d-xo.html
Are these "Tesla" brake boosters still the Bosch iBooster or did they switch to something proprietary? The iBooster is used in many cars besides Tesla.
Yes from Bosch
Please make sure your LED bulb replacement is not blonding oncoming traffic. Sometimes LED replacements throw way too much light too high and blind everyone.
Look how straight it is - that’s what she said 😂
Light Emitting Diode, not Diobe. :P
I think drilling new holes would be alot less fackin around instead of 4 plates
11:25 I wish I could just swap out my halogen to an LED like that, but my car would lose its papers (Europe) 😪
👍💪✌
✌️
Make sure those headlights aren't violating § 571.108 Standard No. 108; Lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.
Algo
✌️
10:41 DIO"BE"
I’m not a fan of the chinese part infomercials mid video… 1 paid ad is enough my friend…
Also, if your design is 1 size fits all, that means it’s not optimized to the point it should be
Wheel nut spacers can match patterns in under an inch. 3/4 plate with grade 8/10.9 studs should be able to adapt the majority of patterns
“To the point it should be ..” is defined by the customer, and guided by provider, regulators. If the kit meets time, price, aesthetic, and functional needs… it’s a win. Joe just an episode on this tradeoff on BPS Space channel.
Is it possible for Jeremy’s universal adaptor blocks to be optimized, likely. And he’ll probably pursue iterating if there is interest/need.
You take way too long and make the process overly complicated. It's not rocket science adapting a master cylinder all you need is a steel plate secured to the inside of the firewall with the new hole spacing easy peasy.