Electric over Hydraulic and electronics in general on heavy equipment does make life a lot easier... Until it comes time to work on it then you can't beat those all mechanical style dozers!
Check the voltage across the switch. when it is turned on. It should read close to 0. Any voltage there is voltage drop across the switch that shows the voltage that doesn't get to the solenoid. Switch could be defective or not made to carry enough amps for the load. In a circuit that draws a few amps it is better to use a bulb that draws close to the same number of amps that the load draws. I believe you are right about it being the switch that is bad. These days even new parts are sometimes defective.
I'm no expert on electrical, but almost 100 percent of the time I've had intermittent electrical issues it's been a bad ground. A test light would be helpful in diagnosing it, for an electrical neophyte like myself it makes things cut and dry in identifying the problem.
Nice troubleshooting. I would first check that it is the correct switch. If it is, new some times is also broken. A switch that has internal resistance in a coil circuit is odd to me.
I think they must have had problems with this design switch. with no relay it's requiring 15-20 amps to be pulled across the switch wich might be a bit much for the small contacts in the switch, and that's why the high resistance. Still haven't decided what I'm going to do with it just yet. I haven't even bothered to look up a new switch yet.
@@LifeWithChase If the coil is rated for 12 volts there is no reason, that I can think of, to have a dropping resistor. If it is a 6 volt coil I could see it.
Nice video Chase. I like seeing you work your way through a troubleshooting routine. I was curious if you have considered getting a microphone for recording your videos? Sometimes the audio gets so quiet when you're talking.
It probably wouldn't last 30min before it got ripped off while I was trying to work on something. I usually try to boost the volume a bit in the editing when I don't forget. Not sure what devices you are listening on but it usually sounds ok on my end as long as I don't have anything running, such as a fan or welder or other equipment. I might pick one up eventually though, It might would come in handy if I was running a piece of equipment and not crawling around under it and on it lol
I have a 1999 caterpillar d4c hydrostatic dozer it ran fine when I parked it about a year ago. Would not start yesterday. I found a loose connection going to the starter it starts fine now. But won't move forward or reverse with the joystick. Does not make any kind of sound when you move the joystick. Checked the neutral park brake switch, and it's working right. What could be the problem? The blade moves fine.
Possibly the plastic pump coupler. You can Check out the other videos I have on this dozer when I first got it and was trying to figure out why it wouldn't move. Engine has to come out to change pump coupler. Could be inside the hydraulic pump like mine was also.
That's what I was thinking. No guarantee another new switch will be any better. I guess they been running it with that wire going to it for who knows how long, so as soon as you turn the key on, it has power. I just wonder about the duty cycle of the solenoid because if you stop for 15 minutes from time to time and leave the dozer running that would allow the solenoid to cool some in normal operation. The way they've had it, it's hot until the dozer is turned off. I suspect only using it 2-3 hrs at a time probably wouldn't make much difference though.
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Electric over Hydraulic and electronics in general on heavy equipment does make life a lot easier... Until it comes time to work on it then you can't beat those all mechanical style dozers!
I really appreciate your videos, Chase! Thx for all the effort you put in to make them interesting. Looking forward to the next one 👍
Check the voltage across the switch. when it is turned on. It should read close to 0. Any voltage there is voltage drop across the switch that shows the voltage that doesn't get to the solenoid. Switch could be defective or not made to carry enough amps for the load. In a circuit that draws a few amps it is better to use a bulb that draws close to the same number of amps that the load draws. I believe you are right about it being the switch that is bad. These days even new parts are sometimes defective.
I'm no expert on electrical, but almost 100 percent of the time I've had intermittent electrical issues it's been a bad ground. A test light would be helpful in diagnosing it, for an electrical neophyte like myself it makes things cut and dry in identifying the problem.
Nice troubleshooting. I would first check that it is the correct switch. If it is, new some times is also broken. A switch that has internal resistance in a coil circuit is odd to me.
I think they must have had problems with this design switch. with no relay it's requiring 15-20 amps to be pulled across the switch wich might be a bit much for the small contacts in the switch, and that's why the high resistance. Still haven't decided what I'm going to do with it just yet. I haven't even bothered to look up a new switch yet.
@@LifeWithChase If the coil is rated for 12 volts there is no reason, that I can think of, to have a dropping resistor. If it is a 6 volt coil I could see it.
Nice video Chase. I like seeing you work your way through a troubleshooting routine. I was curious if you have considered getting a microphone for recording your videos? Sometimes the audio gets so quiet when you're talking.
It probably wouldn't last 30min before it got ripped off while I was trying to work on something. I usually try to boost the volume a bit in the editing when I don't forget. Not sure what devices you are listening on but it usually sounds ok on my end as long as I don't have anything running, such as a fan or welder or other equipment. I might pick one up eventually though, It might would come in handy if I was running a piece of equipment and not crawling around under it and on it lol
I have a 1999 caterpillar d4c hydrostatic dozer it ran fine when I parked it about a year ago. Would not start yesterday. I found a loose connection going to the starter it starts fine now. But won't move forward or reverse with the joystick. Does not make any kind of sound when you move the joystick. Checked the neutral park brake switch, and it's working right. What could be the problem? The blade moves fine.
Possibly the plastic pump coupler. You can Check out the other videos I have on this dozer when I first got it and was trying to figure out why it wouldn't move. Engine has to come out to change pump coupler. Could be inside the hydraulic pump like mine was also.
I'd put the relay in , its the easiest way and keeps everything as is . 30 amp relay is cheap compared to replacing that $100 switch 😅
That's what I was thinking. No guarantee another new switch will be any better. I guess they been running it with that wire going to it for who knows how long, so as soon as you turn the key on, it has power. I just wonder about the duty cycle of the solenoid because if you stop for 15 minutes from time to time and leave the dozer running that would allow the solenoid to cool some in normal operation. The way they've had it, it's hot until the dozer is turned off. I suspect only using it 2-3 hrs at a time probably wouldn't make much difference though.
@@LifeWithChase The solenoid must be a constant duty or it would burn up as an intermittent duty 🤔 or you will find out real fast LOL
How many hours does it have?
3k