How My Audience Saved This CAT D3 Dozer From Disaster.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- A HUGE thank you to all the folks who made suggestions. Dozer is better for it than I would have done solo. Several more repairs to do before putting this beast back in action. Some more important than others, and 2 could potentially save the machine from an early demise. First, the water temp gauge. Otherwise there is no way to tell if it is overheating. Second and probably more important, a new custom skid plate under the engine oil pan. Plus several others. Adjusting valves, fixing parasitic draw, machine a spacer for the alternator, covering the positive battery terminal, making a grommet with old fuel line.
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#farmlife #farmcraft101 #farming #farmer #D3 #dozer #bulldozer #catequipment #heavyequipment #heavymachinery
00:00 Intro
1:29 Alternator spacer
3:42 Fixing parasitic draw
13:44 Adjusting valves
22:58 Adjust tracks, seatbelt
24:50 Fix water temp gauge
27:55 Glow plugs & testing
30:50 Skid plate
47:43 Question for audience
49:40 Where is the screen??
50:21 Making a grommet
52:28 Done! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I just realized why I like your videos so much, when I am watching them I feel like a kid again watching over my dad's shoulders and learning anything he has to teach me about that machine. Man what a fond feeling that is. Thank you John.
That is a great comment, many years looking over my fathers work, welding, mechanical, adjusting Cat D6 Steering Clutches. Then later I would fallow around and do the same. Dang change oil from a D6..... :)
Love it! Totally agree. Miss my Dad. Thanks John!
man, when you say it - think this is right
If the skid plate is exposed for UV light, you got other issues 😂
I was thinking that too, I was like. Hmm is he going to be putting that seat belt into action?😂
👍😂😂
"If you can read this, flip me over"
Yep, you never want your dozer "greasy side up".
He has excavation plans in the Suns core😂
One can actually hear the smile you had on your face when you talked about the cutting edge technology in CAD.
Imagine the smile when he goes to cutting edge supply for new cutting edges on the blade
Cutting Adge Decnology©®™
Gets me every time! I wouldn’t put it pass him to pull out a computer and start 3D rendering stuff
I get a smile every time I do the same thing. A few weeks back, I was talking with my sister about having to do some "C.A.D." She was at first thinking of the modern CAD. Then I said cardboard added design. My sister was a certified exotic metal weldor and fabrication person.
He did not show us the cutting edge! I was 100 % expecting to see a close up of his scissors once he said that,
FYI. On my friends 1958 D4 you can turn the fan blades to blow out through the rad in summer, then turn them to blow heat over the motor, toward the operator in winter months, in CANADA. LOL
Pro operator tip- the seat belt is for safety but also locks to hold the operator tight into the seat. The less the operator moves in the seat the more smooth and accurate you will grade. I really liked your repair series.
And, if you've ever had one throw you off, you'll consider yourself pretty lucky to only break a collar bone like me. It ain't the stumps you see that'll get you. Little dozier like that can get you hurt bad. Just saying.
Hole saw trick: make a "scratch pass, then use the pilot bit to drill through the edge of the hole, then resume drilling through the original hole location. The other hole really helps clear the chips from the teeth! Give it a try.
That’s quite clever. The interrupted cut is probably hard on the teeth. But continuously recutting chips is a sure way to burn the teeth off. Thanks for sharing.
Hmm, that’s a neat idea, thanks 👍
From someone with no experience working on heavy equipment, I really enjoy your content. I feel like you’ve really hit your stride. The editing, the way you explain things, just watching you figure stuff out.
Also, your humor ties in so nicely. The comedic timing of you explaining how you needed “CAD” and then the cardboard coming in from the bottom of the frame the next shot. Had me in stitches. Top notch sir 👍🏻
As Computer Assisted Design Instructor, I think Cardboard added Design might be just the right way to start the first class!😂
Shims for the front idler go under the frame. If you think about it, putting a shim above the frame achieves nothing as the idler is being pushed up and away from the track frame.Upper shims are only necessary for excessive side play. Hope this helps
wouldn't it be better take the gap size and cut it in half for top and bottom?
@@danhard8440no because the wear is from the bottom notice how normally sitting the bottom is tight against the rails. This is where motion wears the metal down over time. Replacing material there with shims or other means realigns the idler and tensioner to be straight with the rest of crawler frame.
@@danhard8440f you look at top in this video the gap towards front of machine is larger then the side on back. This is because the idler is now cocked facing slightly up this can cause issues by putting undo stress in directions and areas not intended for it.
If you look close you can see the wear on the bottom of the rail. Material is gone creating a gap at the top
I will never have equipment you have but enjoy your videos because you explain what and why you are doing it.
The comments from your viewers also show how much they know about machines and are also very informative. My vote would be to put the shims on the bottom.
i will never understand why people complain about what tools you use, look a hammer is a hammer, a wrench is a hammer. if you can swing it and if you are mad enough ANY thing can be a hammer. love learning with you can not wait to see what you have in store with this dozer, and whatever cat machine you have by the trailer.
52:37 =] lets go
Claw hammer is made for nails. Hit steel hard enough and it can chip and break which can be bad. You can lose an eye like that. Ball peen for heavy hitting of steel. Or cross peen, or small sledge. Tapping out that gauge, claw was ok.
@@mmm365 Use what you got.
"Every tool can be a hammer if you use it wrong enough! " Matt from @dieselcreek
@@alysongr Except for a vise, cause that's an anvil.
Armor improvements that mad max would be proud of.
Also that makeshift grommet trick was pretty neat!
I was surprised that he didn't already know that trick, I learned it as a youth in 80s, and to run heavy gauge wiring though heater hose for extra protection from chafing.
Another great video. I think that the 23-30 is tire pressure……😂
Of course! I should have known... So obvious!
That’s a good one. My guess would be the amount of life left in the undercarriage.
I wonder if it was just an inventory number or something like that?
...or the ideal age of an assistant you should hire to keep your old butt from crawling around on the ground. (from an old guy who spends to much time crawling on the ground)
that got a chucle
I noticed it took a bit for the exhaust to start emitting white smoke which means the presence of fuel coming into the cylinders. I have had older machines in the past have a faulty primary lift pump and allowed the prime to leak down. This allows the fuel that would normally be held in the injector pump for a quick prime to leak back down, which means the primary lift pump has to re prime the lines and the Injector pump before it can furnish fuel to the cylinders. Just a thought.
I would think what you said makes a lot of sense. I am thinking a loss of prime, just don’t know where..
My Perkins started much quicker when I crank it for about 5 to 10 seconds before opening the fuel shut-off it uses the high compression to warm things up.
Agree. Add a temporary clear fuel hose and watch for the fuel descending or air bubbles. Diesel engines detest air. 👍
Id agree with you @jamesfranks545, I noticed the same,
in the past I've fitted a diesel non return valve to the fuel pipe just before the primary fuel lift pump to a few tractors over the years that came into the workshop with a similar problem, its not an ideal fix and if there was no filter before it on the pipe cumming direct from the tank I'd fit a inline fuel filter just to stop larger foreign objects hindering the seal on it, but it dose solve the issue you speak of, prevents the fuel leaking back, its a cheap fix which otherwise can cost quite a bit to sort out.
I've got a Deere 444JR that has the same symptoms, almost 30 seconds of crank. I was thinking that the engine oil was draining down and it took that long to trip the oil pressure cut-out switch but I hadn't thought about fuel being the problem. Probably something I should look into.
Quite the tank your building, not having any issues with the town council are you? :P
Was so happy to see you added a seat belt! Will save you from unnecessary pain at the very least. 👍👍
That belly pan was some great work. You made farmers proud everywhere.
So you've got a dump truck, a small excavator, a tractor, a dozer and a boom lift. I try to guess what the next piece of heavy equipment will be, maybe a crane, a bobcat or a compaction roller.
I bet my money on a (tracked) bobcat.
It better be a 75hp or less bobcat with foot controls. Anything else is junk.
I imagine the guy who built the killdozer looked exactly like you did when you were building the skid plate for the oil tank man that was impressive great job
Hats off to you. The sump protector is a steampunk thing of beauty!
Love that fuel line grommet.
I learned something today.
Can I just say I love the tips and tricks that everybody shares on these?
I love your stuff! After graduating from college, and briefly unemployed, I took a job with my father as a millwright. He was in the process of getting an old veneer mill operational. He had hired a local farmer (Dough) as the millwright. With a cutting torch and an arc welder, Dough could accomplish almost anything when needed. Together we did get the mill running again and productive; I learned a lot from him. You kind of remind me of Dough. The thing about farmers: there is just no room for bullshit. You just get things fixed and carry on. Take care man.
John, It’s is a 3 cylinder with the optional additional cylinder to help with the extra pushing power….That's your story and you’re sticking with it. The claw hammer helps with pulling back on anything you hammered in to far. It’s what it was made for. Grandpa always said "if it’s within reach use it”. Haha
Grandpa was right😁
Your temperature gauge. No wires. It’s a tube, with ‘Freon’ in it. Super simple. Expansion and contraction. I’m still amazed how many old mechanics don’t know that. Also. It’s an Ammeter. Not an amp meter. Thanks. Super Great TH-cam! 👍🇺🇸😎
On the left side you put in 1 metric bolt and 2 standard. 8.8 is the grade marking on the metric bolt and the 3 lines are a grade 5 standard bolt. Threads on the bolts are close but no cigar.
If you put a red light bulb in that temp gauge you can use a temp switch to light the gauge face red when it reaches a certain temperature. It works well for bringing your attention to a potential problem right away
Jon, one of the things I love about your videos is how you care about your viewers and actually take their advice. I do the same thing on my videos. I learned a long time ago, no one person can know everything. I sure don't.
Yep. There's always more to learn. Anybody who goes around thinking they know it all, surely does not. Probably knows far less than the people who are humble. Cheers Danny.
The smartest folks are often the ones who realize how little they really know, and how much more there is to learn.
John, Be careful loading the dozer up on the deck over trailer. Metal on metal doesnt make for good traction. A little water, dirt, or a rock will cause one side to slip. Even a quick movement and your sliding off the side of the dovetail. That high trailer and the small dozer is for sure going to be a rollover if it slides. I see equipment slide off a detachable lowboy all the time. Let alone a high deck over.
For valve adjustments I use a set of feeler gauges with a bend in them. They are called offset feeler gauges on the jungle site. Your local parts store will have them also. Makes valve adjustments substantially easier.
Having sets of metric/imperial offset feeler gauges makes valve jobs so much easier.
AKA Valve Feeler Gauge, that's good advice. Lisle 68050 $5.53 when I last put it on watch list. When the shoe fits, and what really floats my boat for valves is the Go-No-Go type Feeler Gauge. Lisle 68150 saved at $11.53. When I was a Motorcycle Tech some clearances and angles were so bad with gas tank off only, we had to use feeler gauges which were angled but also 1/3 the width and 1/2 the length.
I like how this man seems like a pretty good man, and farm level repair guy with an honesty about limitations and openness to advice.
Side note; I'd wager you probably moved on from the tubing sheet metal grommet trick. Having different sizes of plastic metal protective edging surrounds a hole any size and shape and makes it look finished.
You got it!
I would appreciate a video showing how you sharpen drill bits, if you havent done one already. As always, thanks for great content!
It sure must be nice to hear those quail whistling out there!! My state was covered with them at one time. I havnt heard one in many years. They are virtually gone statewide. I miss them.
Common sense, ingenuity, and hard work is what this nation was built on. I love watching a kindred spirit work. Keep the great videos coming.
Missing $1, 900 skid plate. Yeah, you got taken for a ride on this price. Glad you got it fixed!
Working just in front of the camera must be really hard. Thank you for the amazing views. Its a treat watching you work, explain and teach. The birds chirping in the background and the sound of the engine, love them both!
Don't use a tap to clean threads! In some cases whatever is in those threads will push on the tap and cause it to cut one side. Instead, get a Grade 8 (or 10.9 or even 12 if metric) bolt of the correct size and cut a slot length-wise on one side. Now you have a thread chaser that will clean, but not cut threads. Put that bolt in until it gets tight, than back it out and clean out that slot. Repeat until it is all the way in/through.
In many cases you can make it a short slot in the end of the bolt and still use the thing as a regular bolt. Handy for things that come off the machine from time to time, like weights or other attachments, since you always have a thread cleaner on hand.
great trick. thanks
Maybe a little removable cover over the drain plug for protection and keep out dirt?
Like a rubber push-to-fit type plug.
2:04 Me: "I either hit a hard spot or this bit needs to be thrown back in the bucket to magically sharpen itself."
Ahh the claw hammer debate, or as my late father called it here in Glasgow "An Edinburgh Spanner". That sump guard looks as if it would take a direct hit from a Tiger Tank. Great video.
I used to service heavy equipment, so for checking track tension I would get the machine in motion 3 rd gear than put in neutral let roll to a stop than check
That cover plate looks like something B.A.Baracus would build.
Excessive valve lash, unless extreme, shouldn't impact starting. Too little valve lash though, will make starting difficult as well as hurt torque.
BTW, one old school method of adjusting valve lash (my grandfather taught me 50 years ago), that works if you don't have feeler gauges is:
- make sure the engine is fully warmed up and remove the valve cover
- with the engine idling, tighten one valve lash adjuster until the engine starts misfiring, loosen it until it runs smooth and then loosen it by another 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. Note if the adjuster is in the rocker arm (eg Chrysler slant six) the tool will move with the rocker arm so you need to hold it in the ideal position to minimize motion.
- do that for the other valve lash adjusters.
A bit of oil does splash out but not much...
One cool thing about doing this is you get a feel for how valve lash impacts how the engine runs. If you try loosening the adjuster a huge amount you'll notice (in addition to the ticking) that the rpm will reduce - but it takes a lot of loosening to notice any reduction in power (rpm).
Your channel is becoming a Friday ritual for me! Thanks for all the work you do in sharing these projects (adventures)!
With CEE and bigstackD and icweld of course. 😊 I so look forward to Friday's videos
and Mustie1 for the Sunday...
@@jacksomb1 diesel creek on Saturday 😆 🤣
Really nice of 2Chainz to assist with this project! Another great video!
Good stuff. Throw some old tires down next time so you don't tear up your concrete. If you zip off the sidewalls from old semi tires those would work great for your setup. They also work great for loading on metal trailers so you don't slide off or if you have to unload on blacktop and fit in a nice neat pile. If you want super traction on metal trailers just slice outside of sidewall doughnuts a bunch, whip up a quick razor blade jig and put that side down with bead up. Turns it into a rubber mop just like ice racers use on their no stud cars and they use a similar multi blade jig setup to slice tread thousands of times.
Love the DIY armor. Love your teaching style. Love the music. Love the drone shots. Love the journey you take us on every Friday.
Thank you Jon!
Check your RPMs while cranking, your starter could be slower than it should be. Slow cranking could cause that too
It's cranking at a good speed by the sound of it.
Might needs to check injectors that they are not leaking down while sitting and having to fill the injector plus line(s).
@@jimsfarm Since it cranks right up with the glow plugs lit, it's probably not fuel starvation.
Excellent job on the skid plate. I am looking forward to seeing the dozer move some dirt! Even a small dozer can move a respectable amount of dirt with a patient operator and some slot dozing. Keep up the hard work.
Especially the POR15.
In the old days with big cats would be cranking until oil pressure before giving it fuel,with pony motors same that would be 1 minute of cranking before opening fuel cutoff. And if you ever got a cat stuck you want that oil pan cover,you had to drop it every oil change,weight was maybe 500 pounds but it's a nono to run with out it. I've barred a d8 and took 2 more to pull it out. You have to have some really big anchor chain.
You should always clamp your work to the drill press bed. When the bit grabs your plate it hurts. Machine and hands. 😊
Yeah, I hate it when it does that. Did you notice that I had it resting against the column most of the time? Can't spin if it catches that way. That's a nice trick to use if the part is big enough.
Those banjo bolts will have a screen built into the bolt itself. Not all of them. If the bolt has an arrow stamped on the head that typically indicates there’s a screen in the bolt. Or so I’ve noticed. Thanks for all the content one of my favorite channels!!
Would love to see a video on how you make a living in part with farming. I'm considering a change of career, the corporate world has worn me down. Love your videos.
Two points, try two batteries in parallel and she if she starts like it should. I didn't think one was ever enough for those engines, also, check the speed chart for the hole saws. Too fast and they don't cut right.
I use the big battery on my D3B and never had a cranking problem. Thinking it might be a RPM problem, but it glowplugs takes care of it, then.......
Cheaper to buy two batteries than to buy a new starter when the voltage drop under load using one kills it
That is exactly how I solved the slow start of my 1970 John Deere. It came with two 6 volt in series, found 12 volt of same dimensions, put 2 12 volt in parallel, upped the CCAs and it starts like a new one.
Two batteries as big as you can get in there are sort of needed on any old diesel, you have to run the glow plugs then spin the thing as fast as you can get it to go. cranking them very slowly just flattens batteries. As for glow plugs not being needed above 60° that’s just not true. Many automatically run the glow plugs. I have had several that took forever to start in high summer, without glow plugs on.
On the bolts on the skid plate. I believe you used metric and SAE . That may have been your issue.
Great video as normal. It's great to see old equipment restored - fixed and being used.
On the way to being loaded on your trailer, you went past a crawler with a bucket on. Have you thought about making a rollover cage for your protection?? It might make a good video.
Great Video! So the "wire" from the temp gauge to the sensing bulb is a hollow capillary tube filled with an alcohol. The alcohol changes to a gas when heated increasing pressure on on a bellows in the gauge which turns the needle via some gears or linkages. If it were electric it would literally have a wire and work on a change of resistance much like a fuel level gauge.
Looks like the dump truck used soow wire. Makes great extension cords.
As a woodright who will never encounter the equipment you have, I find it very satisfying to watch your videos (ASMR?). You and Andrew Camerata are very clever with maintenance and fixing stuff. Crack on.
Andrew is another one of my favorites too. He doesn’t post as often anymore but many times he is covering months of work.
The liquid is likely to be Ether or something similar. The temperature gauge is based on a pressure gauge principle. When Ether is contained within the bulb and tube and it is heated it expands and produces 1 psi for 1 degree of temperature rise.
Is that constant no matter the size of the "container?"
@@MotoRestoFL I don't know the answer to that question. I became aware of the information that I posted when I researched trying to refurbish a gauge for my Farmall A. Ended up having the gauge repaired by an instrument technician because of the difficulty in acquiring a small amount of ether.
When the switch is turned off, if the gauge drops to zero it's just a common thermocouple switch. If the gauge continues to register the correct temperature, it's a pressure/temperature switch.
@@Bob_Adkins Yes , modern temperature gauges do act like this, they use PTC or NTC components which are electronic devices to measure the water temperature, but this gauge is purely mechanical. The type of temperature gauge in this installation is known as a capillary temperature gauge and will indicate temperature even when the ignition is off..
23-30 looks like typical Auction numbers😳
Great jobs were completed in a straightforward and informative way. Take Care
Mike UK
"Cardboard assisted design " i was falling of the couch laughing 😂
A cool old trick for diesels with manual shutoffs is to leave the fuel off, crank the engine for 5+ seconds and then turn the fuel on. Lets the cylinders heat up from compressing air without cold diesel constantly cooling it down.
I am surprised Vevor or another company has not sent you a set of annular cutters yet. Hole saws work (that is what I have and the only thing I have ever used for big holes) but from every video I have ever seen, annular cutters are the way to go.
Glad you used my idea for the bushing.
Good thoughtful treatment. For those heavy long welds that you don't want to warp, you can do 2.5" stitches and move around the piece, away from the heat so you don't get a massive weld where bending is likely. The final guard you have looks awesome though.
Temperature Gauges don't usually work when you lose all your Coolant!
In the Northwest we get those smoky hazy days from all the wildfires around us. Nothing new, but getting worse. Great detail on these repairs.
I felt like Wilson in Cast Away, for a few seconds.😢 Glad you came back for us. 😊
Another excellent video. I'm amazed at all you skill sets. I'm here in Thunder Bay Ontario right in the middle of all those fires. Yesterday was really bad. It was so smokey you could hardly see the next car in front of you. All day it smelled like campfires. I had some minor irritation with my eyes and throat too. Take care from Canada eh!
Wow, I'm shocked you weren't aware of the split fuel line trick as grommet, given your vast knowledge of farmer hacks. Vacuum line also works well for small holes.
small weed eater tygon fuel line works well too.
I didn't know it either...
awesome fix though!
yeah, pretty much any type of hose or tubing works, just make sure it's resistant to whatever chemicals/nature are present.
I was too, I've been doing that for probably 30 years now. Course, I'm older than John is. Probably by 20 years.
I've never worked on anything larger than a push mower and even I knew about that. smh
life is great when you have one of everything...it is the acquisition of the "everything" that is your admirable talent. love the show
Hi John. If you work on you alternator again Flip the bolt around. Easier to remove the next time.
Gotta love running up and over an edge like your trailer with a track vehicle. Just waiting for the front to drop. I used to work on PistenBullys and we had a 12K service rack that has the same profile as your trailer ramp. And of course on a snowcat, you sit all the way up front at the windshield. So you are hanging over when the front end drops. It's not dangerous at all, but it is always un-nerving. Keep up the good work.
When incrementally drilling holes, the diameter of the first drill should equal the flat ground across the point of the next. This ensures even loading and wear. Using a random size pre-drill wears a spot in the middle of the cutting edges.
Read this three times and still not sure of what this advise means. I want to know because if I can pick up a knowledgeable trick I want to do so. I have found myself hogging holes in steel way too much lately.
@@gags730 wait so drilling a 20mm hole, i start with a 5mm, then a 10mm and finally the 20mm drill bit?
@@gags730 Makes sense.
I feel that tennis elbow brace. Getting old has its challenges.
"SeAT BelTS aRE fOr LoOsers" They said before their car rolled over!
Yet another excellent video!
Purely for the curiosity sake, you should do a cold start with a jump pack and no glowplugs.
Always use the pre-heat 👍🏻 unless it’s already ran
I'm not one of those safety guys, but I was yelling at you to grab a jack before you unbolted it all the way. Thank you for your videos.
Me watching you cut that hose- “you are going to cut the fu- thank you for moving your hand, had me anxious”
That oil pan cover is great 💪
Mad max would be proud of it.
16:36 such a nice impact wrench you have there
Your crankcase guard is definitely from the Mad Max School of Design, and is a great start on the new tank I assume you’re building.
I love watching someone not pay $1,900 for a cover piece!
I ran a quart of ATF through the pump and injectors on my diesel. It cleaned them up and noticeably the engine runs better.
Hello John… RE: the shims… it looked to me like the underside bracket is the one that needs replacement… the top bracket looks like it allows movement and wear but hold that main rain in place.
My thinking is that if you shim the top You will put more pressure on that bottom bracket wear it out and have an issue… I would find out how thick that bottom bracket should be as it seems to keep that large beam (sorry don’t know the name… but the one with the wheels/sprockets) in it’s place.
Check with a pro as to what those brackets actually do and their tolerances.
That is just what it looked like… I actually dont know anything about the caterpillar tractors.
Those wire connectors you used are great and if you put a dab of dielectric grease before squeezing it on then heat the heat shrink.
I just bought a new Kubota kx040 with an enclosed rops and had never operated any heavy equipment prior. It took about 2 hours in the seat to convince myself that the seatbelt was definitely needed. Came close to kissing the front window a couple of times. 35 hours of seat time later it’s an automatic function.
26:02 Not the Craw the Craw.
_Sorry about that Craw._
So the tracks track, the brakes brake and the pistons........work too. 😁
*Thank You* for the video Jon. 👍
I noticed when you are drilling holes that you use oil,we'll oil gets hot very quickly and prematurely wears out your drill bits ,try mixing dawn dish washing liquid and water and your bits will not get hot and your drill bits will stay sharper 5 times longer,and try it when you are using your lath also
Hello from Fishersville, VA. Your work is very impressive and your videos are so well done. It's hard to imagine that you do all this by yourself. I think you must have a twin working with you! 🤩 Take care and keep up the great work.
Ratchet box wrenches work great. I've had a set for a year or so now, Being able to ratchet them in a tight spot really comes in handy. I believe I got mine at Lowe's.
Nothing quite as enjoyable as watching John work on a Friday evening
I use CAD as well, works great. No PC required. This machine is hard on the back, be careful. Great work John
Great video, good to see the dozer done and ready to work.
John believe me you got deal on that tractor, the guy you bought it from didn't know what he was doing. Now you exactly what you have, your looking at $25,000 plus value for that equipment. John keep your eyes open for a cheap vertical mill , bigger then 2hat you have, you won't regret it.
Good to see the ecosystem at work. Many people have struggled with this sort of stuff and it is so useful to get their insights about what works and what doesn't.
Great Video John ! Nice to have all the knowledge and tools.
A job well done. Great video, as usual.
Always enjoy the Bob-white calls in your videos
Great job protecting your oil pan.
Beautiful wire job like always great repairs