Ok, remember that HIDs are somewhat like house florescent in that they use a transformer. HIDs run on high voltage to ionize the Zenon gas, but same principle. You need to use the "Two" original wires that you're referring to to drive the relay. Watch the video carefully a few times. Take your time. It's all there and don't overestimate the job. Watch, draw a diagram and get to work. If you get stuck, post here for more.
Thank you. All we ask is that you keep posting whenever you can. We also encourage you to watch our "Stories from the Road" series right here on this channel. It is all FREE for you guys. Thanks again and good luck.
Hi there, Thanks again. Ok! Feed the relay with the existing harness from the headlight switch and the fused battery positive to the 30 on the relay,then fused wire to the HID pos and ground the leftover wire from the headlight. If this makes sense to you we're there! Again,thanks much for taking your time to help...Rafael.
OMG Thanks a lot. Been looking for info on this for months. Thank you sooo sooo much good people who created this. Please keep doing the great work! Thanks guys thanks really:D Now I can safely do what is right for my new car. Its my first luxury car and I really care for it. Really dont want to damage it in any form ever! Thats why I have been hesitant to put Xenon headbeam on it. I hope its fine now that I know what Iam doing :) Thanks a lot. God bless you :)
Ok, FUSE-to-relay that's 1 connection. Then other side of relay to positive of HID. Then the other side of HID to ground. This would then be a ground triggered HID. The old light circuit will power the relay ON and OFF. And all the relay does is supply power to the HID to turn it ON. Makes sense?
I always return my responses here... If you already have the HID to power, then feed a ground through the relay. The relay's high power capacity (40 Amps) is more than enough for this task. Tie chassis ground to term 30 and the relay output to the HID. I advice for you to watch my entire RELAY VIDEO SERIES right on this channel. Good luck.
@MrJustin711c We recommend that you learn from our free videos. These videos are not a right or entitlement. We provide them free of charge. To avoid being banned from this channel and to conform with TH-cam guidelines of behavior we recommend that you participate constructively. Otherwise refrain from watching our channel. Thank you.
The high voltage side is not switched at any time. The voltage is too high. All you're doing is using the original light power to trigger the relay, NOT POWER the relay. Use an extra fuse "at the battery" and power wire of the right gauge to power the HID lights. So the original lights trigger the relay and NEW power circuit feeds the newly installed HID lights. Good luck.
I liked this video good explained, the contact wire between lamp HID XENON is hot for excessive current initial for start of HID xenon lamp, not connect direct from relay original....... I'm from C.A.
Got it! That was my confusion! As to where the negative of the HID would go. Let me run it again to make sure 1) the two form the factory harness to run the relay 2) the fused to the 30 form the battery 3) out to the positive of the HID and 4) ground the other wire of the HID. Am I correct now? Thanks much...Rafael.
Thanks very much. I do have one question, where is C.A.? I get comments from all over the world and like to know these things. Thanks again and good luck...
Hi just did the connections up to the relay.Never power the headlights. Everything is good til there, But my question is once the connections to the relay are done I'm left with the two wires going into the ballast, Now I know that you said to connect the hot one with a fuse, I got that, but what do I do with the remaining black? Do I ground it? or where does this last wire goes? That's my confusion. Thanks again...Rafael.
I've had my HID Light and Ballast kit hooked up to my factory light plug for a little of 8 years now and I've never had problems with my factory relays, switches or just anything other than a bulb or ballast going out like usual use with HID lights. If it affects the factory wire harness/electrical so bad then why have i yet to see any failures with factory wiring in my own vehicles or any of my customer's vehicles that have a coversion HID kit wired directly to there factory harness with a plug and play kit?
Hi thanks for the response. I'm kind of confused still! Ok I use the two wires from the van switch and the direct positive from the battery to power the relay, That leaves me with the two going to the headlight, how do I connect those? I only see one going into the ballast in your video. Please help me out! Thanks again...Rafael.
Hi there, I'm confused here. My van have halogen factory headlights and I'm swapping them for factory HID's. (Town Country) There are two wires only, how do I make the connection for a relay? Thanks much...Rafael.
Hi there, Never did hear from you again. So what's your input on the HID's relay install. I got everything done up to the relay, Now I have two wires into the ballast and only one out of the relay. What now? I have the positive to the ballast with the fuse that leaves me with the negative, how or where I connect it? Thanks
"When voltage is removed from the relay, the energy that is stored in the coil collapses, and will send current the other way, by increasing voltage to several hundred volts." That's actually erroneous - the current through the relay's coil, which is an inductor, will attempt to maintain it's magnitude and direction as the switch is opened. What will change, is the polarity of voltage across the relay coil after the switch is opened.
No, no... 1) Headlight (2 wires) to drive the relay coil (end). 2) FUSE from Batt to term 30. 3) Relay output (87 or 87a depending in relay brand) to HID Positive. 4) GROUND the other side of HID ground wire... Easy...
. My high beam will not work.The actuators are not moving the blub in to change the high beam. Do I need to Try flipping the polarity of the trigger plug?
I have installed the HID system on my truck, I ordered the 55w 5,000k bulbs for the White look. The Drivers side ( furthest) from the battery works properly, WHITE. the passenger side on the other hand is Blue similar to a 6,000k or 8,000k. I hve switche the wireing and the bulbs and everything stays the same. Drivers Wht, Pass Blue. How can I fix this problem with the passenger side?
Try it both ways, if you make a mistake the diode will fry. THese 1n4001 diodes are 2 cents each, so you can experiment. Here are more resources... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Hi I have one question please answer it for me sir/madam :) My current car configuration is the HID halogen projector light thats like one big piece and normal reflective type highbeam(bulb visible). I deeply desire to put Xenon lights on both as the company xenons are very expensive here because the dealer in my country doesnt take back the old lights, instead they only give another new full one which makes this expensive. Now here is my concern. 1. For the Low Beam, I will follow you said to be very safe even though its not being turned on and off etc unless the vehicle is turned off and on:) So the amp spikes are gonna be very less and hence the damage of overheating. Plus its a hot country here (nearly 40 deg cel temp):P 2. BUT, For the Head Beams, which I might flash repeatedly, i.e turn on and off and on and off, Iam sure its gonna surge the fuk out of the electrical system if I connect directly. Which is why we have your system here which I agree with. But do you think there is any thing additional I might have to put in or add to the above said things so I completely destroy the chance of the head beam from surging even during violent flashings ?? Please tell me thank you God bless.
It looks to me that if you're going to do lots of flashing, then you'd be better off with the Halogen High beam system. The HID systems is also going out little by little in favor of the LEDs. Give it sometime. Maybe you're better off waiting and then see what the future holds. LEDs will be a lot cheaper and take a lot of heat. Makes sense?
ADPTraining Thanks for your reply:) But iam sure the LEDs are far far away from me and the problem with halogen head beam is that it takes time to give full intensity of the bulb. Hence when I want to flash it, it barely glows and dies as the time given is very small. This is the main reason I want to put xenon hid. Bixenon is not an option on my car. My question is how does the factory setting xenon installed cars take care of this issue? i.e Say its the day time and your DRL is the only thing on. Even if your car is only equipped with a HID Xenon Low beam and a normal halogen reflective high beam, while pulling back the light switch stick, both the high and low beams activate and stay on as the stick is kept back. When you let go, both of them will turn off. Sometimes when I go at med-high speeds passing by other cars, I make sure they have seen me coming on their side mirrors by flashing by lights once of twice, especially if the guy looks like he is on phone or something, so that he doesn't change tracks carelessly. I am not like playing around flashing, only wanna use it just for safety. Iam soo concerned coz its a new car (2012 model) and has 5 year warranty. So if I put in some crappy lights and burn my ECM or what ever they call the computer in the car, the warranty guys are gonna blame me for that. SO i want to be extra safe. Please tell me more :)) Thanks again god bless.
Which car is it. Please be more precise. Whatever you do to the car, you'll void the warranty. I don't understand your issue with the new car. Try and explain in a few words. Tell me exactly what you want to do.
Its a 2012 Nissan Patrol (Y62 L). Its really new (only 6000kms now). It comes standard with a projector(semi sealed) D2S Halogen bulb. I want to change this bulb into a xenon so it becomes a xenon projector light :) Ofc when I do this ill have to add a ballast, and a relay. If I purchase the original ballast used by nissan/infinity i.e Matsushita Gen 5 and a high end Philips xenon HID bulb, and a compatible and equally good relay, what are my chances of having my car's advanced internal computer damaged? Thats the first question. So should I like be extra careful and do anything more to prevent any future chance of damage. Second question is do I need a relay? I don't think they put in a relay if I replace the light from Nissan. Iam thinking the reverse current caused by the relay, won't it cause more harm than the good part of the relay?? Thats it:) Thanks again for your care and help :) God bless.
Ok, a few issues here, first off your warranty is void from the moment you touch the car. Done. 2) Now, HID systems due to the high voltage are slower to react, not good for a flashing light since they need a few seconds to warm up. 3) HID due to the high voltage again, can do damage to the electronics, especially from an aftermarket deal like that. Can it work, yes of course, but At Your Own Risk. If AYOR is fine with you, then give it shot and start experimenting. I still don't know why the Halogen high beams aren't right for you? THanks for commenting.
Ok, remember that HIDs are somewhat like house florescent in that they use a transformer. HIDs run on high voltage to ionize the Zenon gas, but same principle. You need to use the "Two" original wires that you're referring to to drive the relay. Watch the video carefully a few times. Take your time. It's all there and don't overestimate the job. Watch, draw a diagram and get to work. If you get stuck, post here for more.
Thank you. All we ask is that you keep posting whenever you can. We also encourage you to watch our "Stories from the Road" series right here on this channel. It is all FREE for you guys. Thanks again and good luck.
Hi there, Thanks again. Ok! Feed the relay with the existing harness from the headlight switch and the fused battery positive to the 30 on the relay,then fused wire to the HID pos and ground the leftover wire from the headlight. If this makes sense to you we're there! Again,thanks much for taking your time to help...Rafael.
Hi, Thanks. I had it since day one but wanted to make sure it was right. Din't want to damage anything. Thanks for all your time!
OMG Thanks a lot. Been looking for info on this for months. Thank you sooo sooo much good people who created this. Please keep doing the great work! Thanks guys thanks really:D Now I can safely do what is right for my new car. Its my first luxury car and I really care for it. Really dont want to damage it in any form ever! Thats why I have been hesitant to put Xenon headbeam on it. I hope its fine now that I know what Iam doing :) Thanks a lot. God bless you :)
Here are more resources... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Ok, FUSE-to-relay that's 1 connection. Then other side of relay to positive of HID. Then the other side of HID to ground. This would then be a ground triggered HID. The old light circuit will power the relay ON and OFF. And all the relay does is supply power to the HID to turn it ON. Makes sense?
I always return my responses here... If you already have the HID to power, then feed a ground through the relay. The relay's high power capacity (40 Amps) is more than enough for this task. Tie chassis ground to term 30 and the relay output to the HID. I advice for you to watch my entire RELAY VIDEO SERIES right on this channel. Good luck.
@MrJustin711c We recommend that you learn from our free videos. These videos are not a right or entitlement. We provide them free of charge. To avoid being banned from this channel and to conform with TH-cam guidelines of behavior we recommend that you participate constructively. Otherwise refrain from watching our channel. Thank you.
@MARVELLA7 Use the Google translator on the captions. Thanks.
The high voltage side is not switched at any time. The voltage is too high. All you're doing is using the original light power to trigger the relay, NOT POWER the relay. Use an extra fuse "at the battery" and power wire of the right gauge to power the HID lights. So the original lights trigger the relay and NEW power circuit feeds the newly installed HID lights. Good luck.
I liked this video good explained, the contact wire between lamp HID XENON is hot for excessive current initial for start of HID xenon lamp, not connect direct from relay original....... I'm from C.A.
Got it! That was my confusion! As to where the negative of the HID would go. Let me run it again to make sure 1) the two form the factory harness to run the relay 2) the fused to the 30 form the battery 3) out to the positive of the HID and 4) ground the other wire of the HID. Am I correct now? Thanks much...Rafael.
Thanks very much. I do have one question, where is C.A.? I get comments from all over the world and like to know these things. Thanks again and good luck...
Good luck...
Hi just did the connections up to the relay.Never power the headlights. Everything is good til there, But my question is once the connections to the relay are done I'm left with the two wires going into the ballast, Now I know that you said to connect the hot one with a fuse, I got that, but what do I do with the remaining black? Do I ground it? or where does this last wire goes? That's my confusion. Thanks again...Rafael.
I've had my HID Light and Ballast kit hooked up to my factory light plug for a little of 8 years now and I've never had problems with my factory relays, switches or just anything other than a bulb or ballast going out like usual use with HID lights. If it affects the factory wire harness/electrical so bad then why have i yet to see any failures with factory wiring in my own vehicles or any of my customer's vehicles that have a coversion HID kit wired directly to there factory harness with a plug and play kit?
Ok
Thanks 👍👍👍👍
Possible but can't comment on it as I haven't used it.
Hi thanks for the response. I'm kind of confused still! Ok I use the two wires from the van switch and the direct positive from the battery to power the relay, That leaves me with the two going to the headlight, how do I connect those? I only see one going into the ballast in your video. Please help me out! Thanks again...Rafael.
Ok remember your original light harness also has relays installed as switch.
Great
Good luck and keep using your brain...
What do you mean by "factory relay"?
A good explanation of how it works but Lose that infernal computer generated voice-over!
It's just annoying and does nothing to enhance this video...
Hi there, I'm confused here. My van have halogen factory headlights and I'm swapping them for factory HID's. (Town Country) There are two wires only, how do I make the connection for a relay? Thanks much...Rafael.
very informative! thanks
Hi there, Never did hear from you again. So what's your input on the HID's relay install. I got everything done up to the relay, Now I have two wires into the ballast and only one out of the relay. What now? I have the positive to the ballast with the fuse that leaves me with the negative, how or where I connect it? Thanks
Tnx for this Video...
"When voltage is removed from the relay, the energy that is stored in the coil collapses, and will send current the other way, by increasing voltage to several hundred volts."
That's actually erroneous - the current through the relay's coil, which is an inductor, will attempt to maintain it's magnitude and direction as the switch is opened. What will change, is the polarity of voltage across the relay coil after the switch is opened.
Hey.. i have a question... terminal 84 is connect to ground. But terminal 85 is connect where?
Normally voltage
which diode should I use ? Please inform the diode part number.
Very good video and very good job, can you tell me the number of the resistant and the diode? Thanks!
Here are more resources... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
No, no... 1) Headlight (2 wires) to drive the relay coil (end). 2) FUSE from Batt to term 30. 3) Relay output (87 or 87a depending in relay brand) to HID Positive. 4) GROUND the other side of HID ground wire... Easy...
hi i want know relay fuctions and how many relay?now i study car wiring
Good video sar
Ok
. My high beam will not work.The actuators are not moving the blub in to change the high beam. Do I need to Try flipping the polarity of the trigger plug?
Try with your scanner. Otherwise use power probe to see actuation.
Didn't know Stephen Hawkins knew about HID lights.
I have installed the HID system on my truck, I ordered the 55w 5,000k bulbs for the White look. The Drivers side ( furthest) from the battery works properly, WHITE. the passenger side on the other hand is Blue similar to a 6,000k or 8,000k. I hve switche the wireing and the bulbs and everything stays the same. Drivers Wht, Pass Blue. How can I fix this problem with the passenger side?
Scott Davis The only possibility here is a faulty ground. Check an post back with more.
@@ADPTraining how to check ground
@MARVELLA7 Use the translation FEATURE from YouTUbe.
Hi,
Could you please say where should the anode and the cathode of diode should be placed?
Try it both ways, if you make a mistake the diode will fry. THese 1n4001 diodes are 2 cents each, so you can experiment. Here are more resources... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Hi I have one question please answer it for me sir/madam :)
My current car configuration is the HID halogen projector light thats like one big piece and normal reflective type highbeam(bulb visible). I deeply desire to put Xenon lights on both as the company xenons are very expensive here because the dealer in my country doesnt take back the old lights, instead they only give another new full one which makes this expensive. Now here is my concern. 1. For the Low Beam, I will follow you said to be very safe even though its not being turned on and off etc unless the vehicle is turned off and on:) So the amp spikes are gonna be very less and hence the damage of overheating. Plus its a hot country here (nearly 40 deg cel temp):P 2. BUT, For the Head Beams, which I might flash repeatedly, i.e turn on and off and on and off, Iam sure its gonna surge the fuk out of the electrical system if I connect directly. Which is why we have your system here which I agree with. But do you think there is any thing additional I might have to put in or add to the above said things so I completely destroy the chance of the head beam from surging even during violent flashings ?? Please tell me thank you God bless.
It looks to me that if you're going to do lots of flashing, then you'd be better off with the Halogen High beam system. The HID systems is also going out little by little in favor of the LEDs. Give it sometime. Maybe you're better off waiting and then see what the future holds. LEDs will be a lot cheaper and take a lot of heat. Makes sense?
ADPTraining Thanks for your reply:) But iam sure the LEDs are far far away from me and the problem with halogen head beam is that it takes time to give full intensity of the bulb. Hence when I want to flash it, it barely glows and dies as the time given is very small. This is the main reason I want to put xenon hid. Bixenon is not an option on my car. My question is how does the factory setting xenon installed cars take care of this issue? i.e Say its the day time and your DRL is the only thing on. Even if your car is only equipped with a HID Xenon Low beam and a normal halogen reflective high beam, while pulling back the light switch stick, both the high and low beams activate and stay on as the stick is kept back. When you let go, both of them will turn off. Sometimes when I go at med-high speeds passing by other cars, I make sure they have seen me coming on their side mirrors by flashing by lights once of twice, especially if the guy looks like he is on phone or something, so that he doesn't change tracks carelessly. I am not like playing around flashing, only wanna use it just for safety. Iam soo concerned coz its a new car (2012 model) and has 5 year warranty. So if I put in some crappy lights and burn my ECM or what ever they call the computer in the car, the warranty guys are gonna blame me for that. SO i want to be extra safe. Please tell me more :)) Thanks again god bless.
Which car is it. Please be more precise. Whatever you do to the car, you'll void the warranty. I don't understand your issue with the new car. Try and explain in a few words. Tell me exactly what you want to do.
Its a 2012 Nissan Patrol (Y62 L). Its really new (only 6000kms now). It comes standard with a projector(semi sealed) D2S Halogen bulb. I want to change this bulb into a xenon so it becomes a xenon projector light :) Ofc when I do this ill have to add a ballast, and a relay. If I purchase the original ballast used by nissan/infinity i.e Matsushita Gen 5 and a high end Philips xenon HID bulb, and a compatible and equally good relay, what are my chances of having my car's advanced internal computer damaged? Thats the first question. So should I like be extra careful and do anything more to prevent any future chance of damage.
Second question is do I need a relay? I don't think they put in a relay if I replace the light from Nissan. Iam thinking the reverse current caused by the relay, won't it cause more harm than the good part of the relay?? Thats it:) Thanks again for your care and help :) God bless.
Ok, a few issues here, first off your warranty is void from the moment you touch the car. Done.
2) Now, HID systems due to the high voltage are slower to react, not good for a flashing light since they need a few seconds to warm up.
3) HID due to the high voltage again, can do damage to the electronics, especially from an aftermarket deal like that. Can it work, yes of course, but At Your Own Risk.
If AYOR is fine with you, then give it shot and start experimenting. I still don't know why the Halogen high beams aren't right for you? THanks for commenting.
Holy shit. So hard to listen to robots at 3am.
Very informative video excellent work , computer voice a bit of a staccato but informative non the less maybe yu can use siri in the future ?
good info, but robovoice is distracting
We now use human like voice. Actually, it's my voice. I'm human like. Thanks for posting.
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com
boy and I thought I can get away with using the the factory relay
the voice just annoys the hell out of me