On ventilation: You might want to check out Sven Yrvind's website, or contact him directly. His builds are smaller than yours but he developed a system where the vents pipe over to the opposite side of the boat so that even if they're submerged, the piping prevents water ingress.
I came here to say the same. Search his website for "ventilation." He uses a cowl vent on the deck, say port side, then tubing takes it to the starboard side and down to the cabin sole, with a trap included to drain water overboard. With this system, one end is always out of the water even if the boat rolls completely over. It makes it impossible for water to free flow into the boat, but keeps air constantly moving. 1 cowl for intake, 1 for exhaust.
A tip for preventing 'skating' when clamping a glue-up. Sprinkling some salt or very fine sand over the glue, before placing and clamping the pieces, can help to prevent things from sliding around. Tony over at 'SV Tapatya' has tried both methods with considerable success.
Alan, I have to add my voice to those commenters suggesting Sven Yrwind's ventilation system - either on his TH-cam channel, or the website which has somewhere in it a good explanation. It's the system I'll be adapting for my boat. Great work and all the best.
As far as air flow without water, you may be able to adapt the Dorade vent concept. Put a couple of big, opening ports/hatches at deck level, port and starboard, straddling your companionway hatch, and then inside the cabin extend the deck for maybe a foot or so and then have a baffle that's about as high as the top of the opening ports. Allow the basin you've created between the opening port and the baffle to drain out on deck. So air can easily flow over the baffle but not water. It won't save you in a roll over, but in those conditions you should have the opening ports clamped shut anyway.
Hey Alan. I've just ordered you a hatch hinge - like the idea that it will be something used every day on your journey! Sorry I can't afford more at this stage - it's been a tough couple of years but your videos are a highlight and so enjoyable following your story. Fair winds Friend! John
Thank you so much John. I'll be working on building the main hatch in February and this hinge will indeed be one of the two. Please make sure to drop by and say hello if Wave Rover is ever in a port near you.
Great idea on using the same hatch style, Alan, and your account of the past experience with it having opened during a rogue wave validates the reasoning behind your endeavour. Cheers! Darryl
@@RoversAdventure Hi Alan, another great video! On the topic of hatch style - when filleting the bulkhead you left a gap for the hatch. I'm curious if the opening will go all the way down to deck level. I would have suspected a small cill would be very useful for keeping the hatch watertight from any waves that wash over the deck.
I've said it before but dorade vents built in to some deck lockers can be shut down if it gets really nasty. But built tall and deeply baffled I think you will find good for even the worst of weather
Venting, pretty hard to beat dorade boxes. Make em flat to sit against the bulkhead. Also tube with a caged rubber ball works. Water comes up the tube pushing the ball up to seal it, falls back down to allow air to pass. Lots of easy, cheap, effective different ways to build em.
@@Garryck-1 So does dorade boxes and any other ventilation without automatic inversion sealing devices. BUT since almost all mono hull sailboats are self righting, It'll never be upside down long enough to worry about.
I like your overall hatch design, and how you use it makes sense to me. That said, I would consider making it a round cornered rectangle for better sealing, and extend the hatch edges beyond the seal a bit more so less spray would enter the opening when partially open for ventillation. And I might add a latch to robustly hold the hatch partially open, to reduce water ingres in a knock-down scenario. And insert a polycarbonate window in its center. Well, I guess that's a few changes there!
Thank you Alan, i can really feel the anticipation of the approaching adventure now. Looking forward to splash day. Your decision to go with the hatch or a better version of the hatch gets the thumbs up from me. Your Contessa with the addition of the doghouse and the hatch made what was already a tough little boat even more capable as proven by the knockdown. I remember seeing that episode but i never realised how far over the boat was knocked over. Big respect for you and the Contessa. I always thought the Dorade vent is what you described. A vent that would allow air but close when water tried to ingress. I know the 90s design used a spring-loaded mechanism, which closed the vent below as soon as water fell on it. The vents i am referring to are roof mounted and i guess you are after a bulkhead mounted version?
Re the ventilation, should be pretty easy for you to put dorade boxes on the aft of the cabin bulkhead, just make sure you can rotate the cowls so you can take advantage of the Venturi effect to pull air out of the cabin and make a slight negative pressure (this will help keep humidity and mould down, learned this the hard way myself) Also don't forget cross ventilation aft of the companionway, dorade boxes near the stern or the aft end of the berths might be a good idea.
Hello Alan🙋looks like the weather isn't too bad so you can't work on Wave Rover 2! That hatch you had before looked fine. I remember you saying it wasn't secure. I haven't seen the latest vents available. I imagine you want something more than a darade box. Thanks for the update and things seem to be coming along just fine. Stay safe , warm and healthy Mr and Mrs Rover 🙏😁 " time to get the groove on "lol
Thanks as always Curtis. I have only lost a few days so far due to the cold. This evening they forecast it will get to 8* but they have shut the schools due to snow/rainfall/freezing rain warnings. It should be a good day for gluing up if we don't lose power.
The famous french sailor Bernard Moitessier had a unique system to vent his boat. A steelpipe sticks out from the deck, about 10 inches high, and at the top of that pipe, he simply stuck a car innertube. This way, he got perfect ventilation, but when a wave hit the boat, the innertube bent down and no water got inside the boat. I must say that it looks a bit funny, but he sailed around cape horn with it, and aparently it worked. You can see his strange invention on some pictures in the book he wrote. By the way, I once owned the same type of boat, called a Joshua, and crossed the Atlantic with a flettner type selfsteering, it worked very well. The description is in the book " Cape Horn under Sail ".
You will see me do that in earlier videos with fiberglass tape. I choose which techniques I use based on a variety of conditions and what type/weight of fiberglass I'm using.
It seems to me that the hatch door might be vulnerable to sheering forces when open all the way. At 1:08, for example, the force of the boom could tear the thing off if an errant piece of rigging were there to catch it, or if the boom dropped down for some reason and swung across the deck.
The hatch performed well under all conditions on the original Wave Rover. Considering that she was a small boat doing an Atlantic circuit the hatch saw some heavy weather at sea and survived a hurricane in Horta.
Bulkhead looking good! If the hatch worked before, then it'll work again. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," but you can always do a couple of things to improve it. Will you use two secure latches inside to keep it shut? A porthole to see aft? How about small opening portholes high up on the bulkhead for ventilation?
Al just wondering, do not see the keel beam that runs down the center of the boat from the transom to the front it's the back bone of the boat. Are you also going to need to strengthen where the two belige keels.
Ventilation: Check Plastimo home page, a system called 'dry and cool'. I have had two of them for 20 years. Dry even when top of the boat dissappears in the sea.
Every episode a woodworking master class. This boat will be amazing. Question: I’m watching the Golden Globe Race and several of the boats are using a clear hatch. I appreciate you want to build as a much of the boat as possible but a clear hatch seems to have a lot of advantages, the most obvious being larger viewing port. Any thoughts to utilizing this strategy?
They are extremely expensive for the large hatches. I will have a port light above the hatch to get a great view aft. And if anything ever happens to the hatch I can rebuild it just about anywhere while others are at the mercy of supply chains and transport.
hey Alan maybe you explained this but why don't you add filler to the end grain of your plywood bulkheads and then set them in place, and fillet the sides after, surely this would give better strength to the bulkhead?
I had some fillets yesterday ! Fantastic ! I first put the fillets in battered eggs, then covered them with breadcrumbs, fried in a pan with oil and butter ! Mmmh ! Best fish fillets ever, together with some mayonnaise.
Wave Rover should be ready to launch June (2023). She will embark on a solo circumnavigation starting with a passage to the Azores. I have started turning my mind to some of the material needed to outfit her. To that end have I put together an Amazon wish list. Thank you for taking the time to review the list. If you purchase an item please send me an email so that I can thank you, Amazon doesn't provide me this info (alanbmulholland@gmail.com) Fair winds, Alan. www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/3LNUWNUPXJKYS?ref_=wl_share
If you want to sail around the world. You should listen to Dick Beaumont he has over 250 000 miles of sailing behind him. He is on ocean sailor pod cast on magazine also owner of Kraken Yachts. But what I find interesting is what is what a good blue water sail boat and why. He even talks about experience of sailing and hitting something in the middle of nowhere at 9 to 10 knots and being stopped dead and then restarting without any changes. When he arrived at the location and looked for damage to the bottom of the boat. He had a 12 ga. Steel metal made skeg made and glassed over that also support the rudder. That had damage to the bottom. If he didn't have it he is confident that he would of lost his rudder. He also talks about the boats that have lost bolt on keels that have come off and caused the boat to cap size. Making your boat to protect you in the worse weather is the baselines for blue water boat. Safety is always first and second. Special when you are on your own. When you have time I recommend you take the time to listen to him. Lots of knowledge is impressive.
Alan, I believe your choice of hatch design is flawed. The hatch will interfere with boom and looking forward. Recommend two smaller side doors that will be better suited to your small cockpit design. R, Phil
On ventilation: You might want to check out Sven Yrvind's website, or contact him directly. His builds are smaller than yours but he developed a system where the vents pipe over to the opposite side of the boat so that even if they're submerged, the piping prevents water ingress.
I came here to say the same. Search his website for "ventilation." He uses a cowl vent on the deck, say port side, then tubing takes it to the starboard side and down to the cabin sole, with a trap included to drain water overboard. With this system, one end is always out of the water even if the boat rolls completely over. It makes it impossible for water to free flow into the boat, but keeps air constantly moving. 1 cowl for intake, 1 for exhaust.
A tip for preventing 'skating' when clamping a glue-up. Sprinkling some salt or very fine sand over the glue, before placing and clamping the pieces, can help to prevent things from sliding around. Tony over at 'SV Tapatya' has tried both methods with considerable success.
Alan, I have to add my voice to those commenters suggesting Sven Yrwind's ventilation system - either on his TH-cam channel, or the website which has somewhere in it a good explanation. It's the system I'll be adapting for my boat. Great work and all the best.
Alan I use a spoon to make my fillets. You can even change the radius by changing the angle of the spoon.
Indeed, I have used just about everything over the years to make fillets.
As far as air flow without water, you may be able to adapt the Dorade vent concept. Put a couple of big, opening ports/hatches at deck level, port and starboard, straddling your companionway hatch, and then inside the cabin extend the deck for maybe a foot or so and then have a baffle that's about as high as the top of the opening ports. Allow the basin you've created between the opening port and the baffle to drain out on deck. So air can easily flow over the baffle but not water. It won't save you in a roll over, but in those conditions you should have the opening ports clamped shut anyway.
Hey Alan. I've just ordered you a hatch hinge - like the idea that it will be something used every day on your journey! Sorry I can't afford more at this stage - it's been a tough couple of years but your videos are a highlight and so enjoyable following your story. Fair winds Friend! John
Thank you so much John. I'll be working on building the main hatch in February and this hinge will indeed be one of the two. Please make sure to drop by and say hello if Wave Rover is ever in a port near you.
Great second watch Alan. Best to you, Mrs. Wave Rover and Mr. Speckles for a great weekend.
Thank you kindly
Hallo Alan , It was very interesting and entertaining again - thank you,
Werner from Southern Germany
Glad you enjoyed it
Great idea on using the same hatch style, Alan, and your account of the past experience with it having opened during a rogue wave validates the reasoning behind your endeavour. Cheers!
Darryl
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice work Alan. Glad to hear you went with the Wave Rover I style hatch, your summary of benefits certainly justify your decision.
Thanks Ray. In this case I'm also sticking with what I know will work. Minus 11 C today, not including the wind chill, but managed to get a bit done.
@@RoversAdventure Hi Alan, another great video! On the topic of hatch style - when filleting the bulkhead you left a gap for the hatch. I'm curious if the opening will go all the way down to deck level. I would have suspected a small cill would be very useful for keeping the hatch watertight from any waves that wash over the deck.
@@IJMacD I'll be working on the hatch over February. It will have at least a 3"combing.
I've said it before but dorade vents built in to some deck lockers can be shut down if it gets really nasty. But built tall and deeply baffled I think you will find good for even the worst of weather
No worries Alan. Even submariners have to open the doors from time to time!
LOL
Venting, pretty hard to beat dorade boxes. Make em flat to sit against the bulkhead. Also tube with a caged rubber ball works. Water comes up the tube pushing the ball up to seal it, falls back down to allow air to pass. Lots of easy, cheap, effective different ways to build em.
Only problem with caged balls is, if the boat ever becomes inverted, they let water in!
@@Garryck-1 So does dorade boxes and any other ventilation without automatic inversion sealing devices. BUT since almost all mono hull sailboats are self righting, It'll never be upside down long enough to worry about.
I like your overall hatch design, and how you use it makes sense to me. That said, I would consider making it a round cornered rectangle for better sealing, and extend the hatch edges beyond the seal a bit more so less spray would enter the opening when partially open for ventillation. And I might add a latch to robustly hold the hatch partially open, to reduce water ingres in a knock-down scenario. And insert a polycarbonate window in its center. Well, I guess that's a few changes there!
Thank you Alan, i can really feel the anticipation of the approaching adventure now. Looking forward to splash day.
Your decision to go with the hatch or a better version of the hatch gets the thumbs up from me. Your Contessa with the addition of the doghouse and the hatch made what was already a tough little boat even more capable as proven by the knockdown.
I remember seeing that episode but i never realised how far over the boat was knocked over. Big respect for you and the Contessa.
I always thought the Dorade vent is what you described. A vent that would allow air but close when water tried to ingress. I know the 90s design used a spring-loaded mechanism, which closed the vent below as soon as water fell on it. The vents i am referring to are roof mounted and i guess you are after a bulkhead mounted version?
At this point, I'm open to any suggestion. All the comments from the Rovers are extremely helpful in focusing my imagination to develop a solution.
Re the ventilation, should be pretty easy for you to put dorade boxes on the aft of the cabin bulkhead, just make sure you can rotate the cowls so you can take advantage of the Venturi effect to pull air out of the cabin and make a slight negative pressure (this will help keep humidity and mould down, learned this the hard way myself)
Also don't forget cross ventilation aft of the companionway, dorade boxes near the stern or the aft end of the berths might be a good idea.
Hi Alan, I believe I have a stern light for you and I think I might also have a hand held VHF you can have...
Yes please!
Your videos are great and show great carpentry skills. I’ve been following all your videos and enjoying your progress.
Thank you very much!
Hello Alan🙋looks like the weather isn't too bad so you can't work on Wave Rover 2! That hatch you had before looked fine. I remember you saying it wasn't secure. I haven't seen the latest vents available. I imagine you want something more than a darade box. Thanks for the update and things seem to be coming along just fine. Stay safe , warm and healthy Mr and Mrs Rover 🙏😁 " time to get the groove on "lol
Thanks as always Curtis. I have only lost a few days so far due to the cold. This evening they forecast it will get to 8* but they have shut the schools due to snow/rainfall/freezing rain warnings. It should be a good day for gluing up if we don't lose power.
The famous french sailor Bernard Moitessier had a unique system to vent his boat.
A steelpipe sticks out from the deck, about 10 inches high, and at the top of that pipe, he simply stuck a car innertube. This way, he got perfect ventilation, but when a wave hit the boat, the innertube bent down and no water got inside the boat. I must say that it looks a bit funny, but he sailed around cape horn with it, and aparently it worked. You can see his strange invention on some pictures in the book he wrote.
By the way, I once owned the same type of boat, called a Joshua, and crossed the Atlantic with a flettner type selfsteering, it worked very well.
The description is in the book " Cape Horn under Sail ".
I'm familiar with that and he is a man after my own heart with his ideas of keeping it simple. I may well go the route of the inner tube.
@@RoversAdventure All right then, me too, I keep it as simple as possible, the best way on a boat.
I like to attache the fiberglass tape to the filet wet in wet. It's easier to shape the filet to a nice hollow form.
You will see me do that in earlier videos with fiberglass tape. I choose which techniques I use based on a variety of conditions and what type/weight of fiberglass I'm using.
Great progress as always. Sending you a ventilation suggestion on email.
Got it! And thanks for sending it.
It seems to me that the hatch door might be vulnerable to sheering forces when open all the way. At 1:08, for example, the force of the boom could tear the thing off if an errant piece of rigging were there to catch it, or if the boom dropped down for some reason and swung across the deck.
The hatch performed well under all conditions on the original Wave Rover. Considering that she was a small boat doing an Atlantic circuit the hatch saw some heavy weather at sea and survived a hurricane in Horta.
Take a look at Yrvinds ventilation system, might live up to your requirements :)
Will do
Bulkhead looking good! If the hatch worked before, then it'll work again. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," but you can always do a couple of things to improve it. Will you use two secure latches inside to keep it shut? A porthole to see aft? How about small opening portholes high up on the bulkhead for ventilation?
All very good ideas my friend.
Al just wondering, do not see the keel beam that runs down the center of the boat from the transom to the front it's the back bone of the boat. Are you also going to need to strengthen where the two belige keels.
Aironly ventilators. The only watertight ventilator as far as i know. I have three of those on my boat no water comes in onlyair. Check it out.
These have been on my radar for a few months. I'm not sure if they are still available as they come from the Ukraine.
I wonder if these could be mounted on your sloped bulkhead ? or just on horizontal surfaces .....
@@littlebeasailingadventures6408 I'm thinking just horizontal, but I will give it a bit of a think.
Ventilation: Check Plastimo home page, a system called 'dry and cool'. I have had two of them for 20 years. Dry even when top of the boat dissappears in the sea.
I was able to see them but couldn't get a price. I would gladly have a couple of them.
In Sweden they are priced in region of 170 USD each. That includes dorade and the box. There are US dealers for Plastimo.
Every episode a woodworking master class. This boat will be amazing. Question: I’m watching the Golden Globe Race and several of the boats are using a clear hatch. I appreciate you want to build as a much of the boat as possible but a clear hatch seems to have a lot of advantages, the most obvious being larger viewing port. Any thoughts to utilizing this strategy?
They are extremely expensive for the large hatches. I will have a port light above the hatch to get a great view aft. And if anything ever happens to the hatch I can rebuild it just about anywhere while others are at the mercy of supply chains and transport.
Great answer, thanks for enlightening me.
hey Alan maybe you explained this but why don't you add filler to the end grain of your plywood bulkheads and then set them in place, and fillet the sides after, surely this would give better strength to the bulkhead?
They are a little unwieldy to pre-glue but I don't make them too tight so that I can get epoxy behind.
Instead of the two massive wood crossbeams could one also just double up the plywood of the bulkhead?
The beams act as a gluing surface for the cabin top.
How much of the strength will come from two curved surfaces being fused together?
That transition bulkhead will be an extremely strong point on the boat as it has 2 solid beams.
I had some fillets yesterday ! Fantastic !
I first put the fillets in battered eggs, then covered them with breadcrumbs, fried in a pan with oil and butter ! Mmmh ! Best fish fillets ever, together with some mayonnaise.
I had suspected someone would use the fillet joke. I was going to do it myself at some point, lol
I am glad, you liked it ! All the best to you and your wife .
contact Sven Yrvind on TH-cam about ventilation
Sure! He has a great system
Wave Rover should be ready to launch June (2023). She will embark on a solo circumnavigation starting with a passage to the Azores. I have started turning my mind to some of the material needed to outfit her. To that end have I put together an Amazon wish list. Thank you for taking the time to review the list. If you purchase an item please send me an email so that I can thank you, Amazon doesn't provide me this info (alanbmulholland@gmail.com) Fair winds, Alan. www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/3LNUWNUPXJKYS?ref_=wl_share
If you want to sail around the world. You should listen to Dick Beaumont he has over 250 000 miles of sailing behind him. He is on ocean sailor pod cast on magazine also owner of Kraken Yachts. But what I find interesting is what is what a good blue water sail boat and why. He even talks about experience of sailing and hitting something in the middle of nowhere at 9 to 10 knots and being stopped dead and then restarting without any changes. When he arrived at the location and looked for damage to the bottom of the boat. He had a 12 ga. Steel metal made skeg made and glassed over that also support the rudder. That had damage to the bottom. If he didn't have it he is confident that he would of lost his rudder. He also talks about the boats that have lost bolt on keels that have come off and caused the boat to cap size. Making your boat to protect you in the worse weather is the baselines for blue water boat. Safety is always first and second. Special when you are on your own. When you have time I recommend you take the time to listen to him. Lots of knowledge is impressive.
I will check it out, thanks Eric.
Dorade box
Alan, I believe your choice of hatch design is flawed. The hatch will interfere with boom and looking forward. Recommend two smaller side doors that will be better suited to your small cockpit design. R, Phil
I hear what you are saying Phil but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages in my opinion