Tip one 00:15 Tip two 2:38 Tip three 7:42 Tip four 10:40 Tip five 15:32 Bonus tip 20:44 For tip four, I realized after the video that I had already trimmed the rear fender prior to the tip, hence not many gains from this one!
Awesome video, tons of great information!! I have a bit of work cut out for me now, but I can't wait to get started! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this video!
Totally enjoying your channel and appreciate all that you have to teach us. I am new to the crawling side and am looking forward to all it has to offer. Maybe you could teach us about tire foam or fillers to help with traction. I have seen other videos but am still a little confused as to the easiest, cheapest and best. Thanks sir and God bless.
Hey Mr. Cape Crawler, I've been loving your videos and advice/information that is present throughout. I love how descriptive you are. Ever think you are going to do a deadbolt build? You've convinced me to get one with your sick builds. Thanks a lot.
Thank you! I have a pretty gnarly deadbolt currently. I could do a build overview of that one like I did for the gladiator and JLU if you are interested. Let me know!
The video got way longer than I anticipated so I wanted to make sure I broke it up with time stamps. I respect everyone's time and wanted to make it easy for you all!
@@CapeCrawlers some of my buddies at work have them and we made a little course out back behind the shop! Just bought the Deadbolt with a few upgrades! 🤘
I used to have the C10 with a bunch of mods but there is soooo much more aftermarket now I want another. Gotta have the jlu as I already have an scx10 iii, scx6 and love them both.
I have double barrels shocks out em on right off the bat when I bought the deadbolt already angled them inwards removed the springs on all of em body dropped to normal height and it's dropped so much I can not only climb hills it sidehills with the 10th scale monsters. I love your bodies though I had to completey cut my deadbolt body to fix all the rubbing. Also had to reinforce stock frame cause I had to cut the front end off a lil to make sure the frame doesn't slap or hit or rub on the upgraded servo. I got the 4 mm extended axles looking at the hub extenders as well probably going to add it for more sidehilling and also my front tires still rub a lil on my shocks when turning full. Got some more work to do but it's a beast love the 24ths because of the capability of em.
Man, you put a lot of effort into yours to get it to perform like that it sounds! Mine are limited by the bodies for sure. I'm still trying to keep a scale look to some degree. Some day I'll build a rock bouncer and focus purely on capability.
@@CapeCrawlers I did it and the shocks work 10 times better now. I have battled with the binding on these telescoping shocks since day 1. That instantly fixed it.
You need to make a ramp to drive up on to show flex. Not twisting the axils to show flex. That will show the true amount of flex under its own weight. Showing the squish of the sidewall of the tire with you pushing down to make it look like more squish. Let the trucks weight do tje squishing via a ramp. Just my thoughts on how to show how much flex your getting. Peace out!
6:43 so you achieved the wrangler to drop by mounting the shocks on the frame? Mine stands high like a monster truck, do you have an instructional on how to do that mod? I’m using injora 39mm shocks btw and I only put from 5 to 7 drops of 25wt oil. Please help. Thanks
Crawling and trampolines? Your son knows how to party, lol. Thanks for all the tips and shopping list. It's time to go take a ride to Amain Hobbies. Been wanting an excuse to go there.
I got the 58mm shocks you bought, I have the same axels as well. But the issue I'm getting is when my front shocks extend my front drive shaft comes apart. What drive shafts do you run? And did you have the same issue? Also thanks for all the help. Love the videos
I run stock driveshaft, but have limiting straps. They really help control the front end and limit the driveshaft loss. Check these out: littleguyracingparts.com/products/lgrp-brass-limit-strap?variant=44997674893624¤cy=USD&gad=1
I run the crawler innovations lil nova foams in medium or soft compound. The gladiator is heavy, so I use medium. The deadbolt and JLU work great on the soft foams.
Question: what’s the best way to keep body down when climbing up abit, front of body raises ( bigger battery? Stick on weights to attach to underside of body? ) I did the same thing w shocks just they raise an body goes nose up an try’s to flip backwards
On the JLU I did put some grease on the shock shaft. I did find that these particular shocks were sticky and binding early on. They’re good now that they’ve broken in, but initially I did have to grease them.
what are the tire extensions your running to get that wide stance? and do you think it will be more challenging to cut the bronco fenders because of the harder body?
I like the Mofo RC axle extensions and the RC4WD or Injora stamped steel wheels with the hubs flipped to get that wide stance. I used hex extensions only on the C10 and they’ve worked well.
And yes, cutting the bronco body gives me anxiety even thinking about it 😅 But I’ve seen it done successfully. Folks I’ve talked to said they used a dremmel tool and a steady hand to get it done.
Hey man I got an issue I got the injora 43 mm double barrel shocks on my c10 I have the stock injora springs and when I flex I need to push on my rig for it to go down and I feel like a rubbing effect pushing it down like if the barrels were rubbing together and stops it from compressing by itself could you solve my issue please?
I like the Injora stamped steel beadlocks. That’s what I run on the gladiator. They’re a four piece wheel so you can reverse the hub to get that wide stance and deep dish look. For tires I am running the LGRP swamp kings. Great tires!
Keeping the body flat as possible and tires on the ground at all times is what crawling is all about so to be honestly max flex isn’t overrated. Flex is majority of the capability. Guys on real trucks run tiny propane fueled motors on crawlers because they don’t need power to crawl
Awesome video man! All the videos. I just got the same jeep earlier this week. Took some notes and will be building the flex machine next week after parts arrive. It’s a great truck thanks again for the video
I run double barrels on the rear with no springs and the internal spring shocks on the front. The double barrel unload when climbing and seen to cause it to flip more
I just tried something similar to this on our c10: stock shocks up front with flex extensions, double barrels on the back. Climbing ability is amazing! And it still flexes great 👍🏻
@@petechipps9770 yea! Check these out: www.moforc.com/products/mofo-rc-flexblade-xrs-for-axial-scx24-now-even-flexier-than-before They’re a great way to add capability to your stock shocks!
I also have those same portals on my Gladiator. And I'm running the treal +5's on all four corners. I really wanted to stick to the conventional single barrel shocks, but I keep seeing the flex on these double barrels and I'm about convinced to get some.
@@cajunsrcandoutdooradventur4437 I’m running crawler innovation micro foams in both the gladiator and the JLU. Gladiator is medium compound and JLU is soft.
While adding to stance increases stability in cases of high angle of articulation as well as yielding improved results on the tire stack test, it doesn't actually increase the available range of articulation.
I use axle extensions, mainly +5mm to accommodate big, heavy hexes. I also use the four piece beadlock wheels from Injora or RC4WD which allow you to flip the hubs around and gain some significant weight. Those two combined add ~10mm per side.
Whats that you are using on the lower endof the rear bronco shocks? (shown at 11:45), looks like it gives some extra extension while flexing and just drops on the axle while driving.
Yes, you're absolutely right. These are flex extensions made by Mofo RC. Grizzly Works RC also makes a great set of these. They add significant flex to stock shocks while largely maintaining stock shock geometry.
I've got the deadbolt. I tried 43mm double barrels and moved them back onto the frame. Problem is ...the drive shaft comes out since there is too much drop in the front tires ...make sense? What could I do different ? I mean, shorter shocks would work but wouldnt that lessen the flex for maneuverability?
I tried that and the drive shaft rubs the rubberband...destroying the rubberband. Maybe your truck has more clearance between linkage and shaft ? Thanks for the advice though
I would use a dremel with a cutting wheel. Then sand by hand or with the sanding bit on said dremel. I cut my bronco with snips and it was scary as hell. It worked, but it would much easier with the proper tools.
When you say binding, is it the motor hitching/cogging, or is it in the axles or driveshafts do you think? Just wondering if it's something you can tune with the Furitek app or solve with a firmware update versus something mechanical.
1. What weights do you have for your blue Gladiator? 2. I got the RC4WD Tires, which are smaller than those big tires, even if I get huge flex, I would think I don't need to cut up my body. 🤔
I think in this video I was using the coda racing wheel weights (10.4g). I’ve since upgraded to treal +5mm hexes. Regarding the body: you can a lot of flex without having to cut the body, especially on the gladiator. The tires tuck in the fenders pretty well. Other models, like the c10, need trimming almost immediately, but the jeeps can get away with stock fenders and scale tires I feel.
You unscrew the top of the shock. Then use your hex tool and stick it down into the shock body. The shock shaft is threaded, and you unscrew it from the top with the hex driver. When it comes apart you just slide the spring off the bottom.
It depends. The V1 electronics from the SCX24 (black esc box) are compatible with the Furitek parts. The V2 (blue box) is not, and would need to be replaced along with the transmitter.
Well I'm doing a ripper build all new. So that's answers my question...cuz that would mean I'm better off getting a receiver and a transmitter that can go to multiple cars. Thanks for the help!!
Check out the last tip of this video: th-cam.com/video/dDu87SwVwpY/w-d-xo.html The wheels are a four piece design, with the hub being an independent piece. When assembling, you can bolt the hub onto what would traditionally be the front of the wheel.
I like the Injora kit that comes with the Emax servo: INJORA RC Servo Steering Servo with Servo Mount Bracket and Arm for RC Car Boat Model Parts Axial SCX24 Upgrade Parts（Green）
I never thought I would own a 24th scale now I own one and I never thought I would hate it as much as I do and they only reason I hate it as much as I do is if you drop a screw on the carpet it's gone forever
I bought some double barrels when they 1st came out when you used the top off your stocks. I had nothing but trouble with them. They would bind no matter what I tried to correct it. I finally gave up on them. Are the new versions better or do they still suffer from binding?
I've only had troubles with binding on a couple sets, and even those I was able to fix with some tweaks to my setup. They sound drastically improved over what you experienced. The higher end shocks, like Hot Racing, have zero binding in my experience.
You can, but you have to pull out the pivot hardware and just let the shocks pivot on the mounting bolt. It's not ideal. No one has made long travel shocks specific for this rig yet, so we're still waiting. I have been using Losi mini B rear shocks on mine. FlubRC makes adapters to get them to bolt up nicely.
@@CapeCrawlers I never thought about the tire being part of the “flex.” Great tips man, keep them comin! Did you vent your trail kings? And what weights are you using on that belly dragger?
@@Bigpotatocatcher I do vent the trail kings, and my scramblers. By belly dragger do you mean the JLU? On that I am running the +5mm axles and heavy hexes from Mofo RC.
I originally got a deadbolt (this is still the axial scx24) and I put the b-17 body on it. The tires constantly rub against the body and it makes it hard to drive. What suspension would be the best to prevent rubbing? (I also want to add the super swamper tires)
Any long travel suspension really. The 43mm double barrel shocks are all pretty similar although I’ve had great luck with the RCLions. Are you on stock shocks now?
I feel like they help. It’s a bit like a batting glove in baseball: will it boost your batting average 20%? No. But it does help slightly, and incremental improvements do add up when you stack them with other mods.
I’ve used various mods. My favorite is probably the mofo RC axle extensions with the heavy hexes. Then couple that with the stamped steel wheels with flipped hubs. Those two combined add a lot of weight and width. On the C10 I’m just using Injora hex extensions and those have worked great, especially from a budget standpoint
This is what I would recommend for best fit and finish: www.moforc.com/products/axial-scx24-4mm-extended-axle-shafts-with-heavy-brass-hex-adapters-65g-of-weight
Bye bye finders. Let's destroy your money because you don't know what your doing. Great video. Think I've had enough. This is the worst video I've ever seen.
Tip one 00:15
Tip two 2:38
Tip three 7:42
Tip four 10:40
Tip five 15:32
Bonus tip 20:44
For tip four, I realized after the video that I had already trimmed the rear fender prior to the tip, hence not many gains from this one!
Awesome video, tons of great information!! I have a bit of work cut out for me now, but I can't wait to get started! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this video!
Totally enjoying your channel and appreciate all that you have to teach us. I am new to the crawling side and am looking forward to all it has to offer. Maybe you could teach us about tire foam or fillers to help with traction. I have seen other videos but am still a little confused as to the easiest, cheapest and best. Thanks sir and God bless.
Thank you for the video, my wrangler needs a little more flex so I'm gunna start with shocks and go from there.
Hey Mr. Cape Crawler, I've been loving your videos and advice/information that is present throughout. I love how descriptive you are. Ever think you are going to do a deadbolt build? You've convinced me to get one with your sick builds. Thanks a lot.
Thank you! I have a pretty gnarly deadbolt currently. I could do a build overview of that one like I did for the gladiator and JLU if you are interested. Let me know!
@@CapeCrawlers that would be awesome
Awesome video!!
I like to limit my front long travel shocks with some small rubber bands so the front end doesn’t lift when climbing.
Great idea. Definitely recommend limiting straps with the double barrels. Especially if frame mounted.
the links to the parts discussed were super helpful
The video got way longer than I anticipated so I wanted to make sure I broke it up with time stamps. I respect everyone's time and wanted to make it easy for you all!
I've been looking into these SCX24 Crawlers and this video answered all my possible mod questions! Great tips and well presented!!
Glad you found value in it! Be careful, the scx24’s are super addicting!!
@@CapeCrawlers some of my buddies at work have them and we made a little course out back behind the shop! Just bought the Deadbolt with a few upgrades! 🤘
Thanks for showing these are very value tips. I learned some new aspects👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
I used to have the C10 with a bunch of mods but there is soooo much more aftermarket now I want another. Gotta have the jlu as I already have an scx10 iii, scx6 and love them both.
Thanks, I'm new to these crawler and this answer allot of questions for me.
Glad they helped! Thanks for watching.
What a great video, Addam thank you so much for sharing. These upgrades are exactly what my rigs need.
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!
Awesome I just subscribed, great information I’ll follow for more, like to learn everything I can
I have double barrels shocks out em on right off the bat when I bought the deadbolt already angled them inwards removed the springs on all of em body dropped to normal height and it's dropped so much I can not only climb hills it sidehills with the 10th scale monsters. I love your bodies though I had to completey cut my deadbolt body to fix all the rubbing. Also had to reinforce stock frame cause I had to cut the front end off a lil to make sure the frame doesn't slap or hit or rub on the upgraded servo. I got the 4 mm extended axles looking at the hub extenders as well probably going to add it for more sidehilling and also my front tires still rub a lil on my shocks when turning full. Got some more work to do but it's a beast love the 24ths because of the capability of em.
Man, you put a lot of effort into yours to get it to perform like that it sounds! Mine are limited by the bodies for sure. I'm still trying to keep a scale look to some degree. Some day I'll build a rock bouncer and focus purely on capability.
Alot of questions answered for me thanks 😊
Remove an “O” ring from the shocks? That’s a great bonus tip. I’m doing it right now👍
It works surprisingly well! I do the same thing for my linkage when running the aluminum or brass links.
@@CapeCrawlers I did it and the shocks work 10 times better now.
I have battled with the binding on these telescoping shocks since day 1.
That instantly fixed it.
subbed, love the content man! and love that you time stamp!
Thanks for the support! 👍🏻
You need to make a ramp to drive up on to show flex. Not twisting the axils to show flex. That will show the true amount of flex under its own weight.
Showing the squish of the sidewall of the tire with you pushing down to make it look like more squish. Let the trucks weight do tje squishing via a ramp.
Just my thoughts on how to show how much flex your getting.
Peace out!
6:43 so you achieved the wrangler to drop by mounting the shocks on the frame? Mine stands high like a monster truck, do you have an instructional on how to do that mod? I’m using injora 39mm shocks btw and I only put from 5 to 7 drops of 25wt oil. Please help.
Thanks
I'm rough on phones.. but I want a flip , I'm definitely interested on how the flip holds up !
Crawling and trampolines? Your son knows how to party, lol. Thanks for all the tips and shopping list. It's time to go take a ride to Amain Hobbies. Been wanting an excuse to go there.
He calls it “Jeep Jeep bounce” 😂😂 If I had an Amain hobbies in driving distance I would be in serious trouble!
Great vid. Thanks. Buuuuut…. When I frame mount shocks, front driveshaft comes out. I have a deadbolt. Any advice?
A limiting strap will fix that. Check this out: th-cam.com/users/shorts2cFlJfdcZj8?feature=share
I got the 58mm shocks you bought, I have the same axels as well. But the issue I'm getting is when my front shocks extend my front drive shaft comes apart.
What drive shafts do you run? And did you have the same issue? Also thanks for all the help. Love the videos
I run stock driveshaft, but have limiting straps. They really help control the front end and limit the driveshaft loss. Check these out: littleguyracingparts.com/products/lgrp-brass-limit-strap?variant=44997674893624¤cy=USD&gad=1
Nice video bro lots of good info
We need a video of a redcat gen 8! 😅 don’t all these mods to it except the cutting 🥺 trying not to do that. Great video
I've been scoping out the Redcats a lot lately. They look like great value!
Great stuff and info. 👍🏼
What brand of foams do you use? I’m guessing they’re not the stock foam that comes in the tires.
I run the crawler innovations lil nova foams in medium or soft compound. The gladiator is heavy, so I use medium. The deadbolt and JLU work great on the soft foams.
on the blue gladiator what is on the rear axle for the shocks to swivel?
Do I need a longer drive shifter when I’m getting this much more flex?
You could also cut your springs down to get a lower ride height
Very true. I’m experimenting with that in a new build as we speak
One more question. I picked up the gladiator links and I put them in my deadbolt. Do u know what driveshaft I can use for the rear?
I would go with the gladiator driveshaft as well. It should give you plenty of length.
@@CapeCrawlers mahalo braddah 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
I imagine you could do a body lift to help with fender clearance and to keep the COG low.
I'm sure you could. I personally like the look of the low, compact stance, so I am okay with hacking off the fenders.
i put the stock shocks onto the chassis on my bronco, and now its super lifted 😂😂
I believe it! The stock springs are so stiff. Those things offer no droop!
Question: what’s the best way to keep body down when climbing up abit, front of body raises ( bigger battery? Stick on weights to attach to underside of body? ) I did the same thing w shocks just they raise an body goes nose up an try’s to flip backwards
You need some limiting straps from the sounds of it. Check this out: th-cam.com/users/shorts2cFlJfdcZj8?feature=share
@@CapeCrawlers
Yep exactly what I was talking about, thank you for info! Have a good Thanksgiving.
Dose it help if you upgrade your links or do you not need to?
also did you use grease or oil the loosen up the JL shack with no spring
On the JLU I did put some grease on the shock shaft. I did find that these particular shocks were sticky and binding early on. They’re good now that they’ve broken in, but initially I did have to grease them.
@@CapeCrawlers ok thank you so much
Awesome tips any links for the rc4wd wheels
Thanks for watching! Here is the link to the wheels: store.rc4wd.com/Stamped-Steel-10-Stock-Beadlock-Wheels-Black_p_4946.html
what are the tire extensions your running to get that wide stance? and do you think it will be more challenging to cut the bronco fenders because of the harder body?
I like the Mofo RC axle extensions and the RC4WD or Injora stamped steel wheels with the hubs flipped to get that wide stance. I used hex extensions only on the C10 and they’ve worked well.
And yes, cutting the bronco body gives me anxiety even thinking about it 😅 But I’ve seen it done successfully. Folks I’ve talked to said they used a dremmel tool and a steady hand to get it done.
Hey man I got an issue I got the injora 43 mm double barrel shocks on my c10 I have the stock injora springs and when I flex I need to push on my rig for it to go down and I feel like a rubbing effect pushing it down like if the barrels were rubbing together and stops it from compressing by itself could you solve my issue please?
What wheels and tires are you rocking and what are some wide wheels and tires?
I like the Injora stamped steel beadlocks. That’s what I run on the gladiator. They’re a four piece wheel so you can reverse the hub to get that wide stance and deep dish look. For tires I am running the LGRP swamp kings. Great tires!
Tip #1: Maximum flex is overrated. Great for those cool pics on social media though...
I think that should be a disclaimer before the tips 😁
Truth. Capability beats flex any day of the week and twice on Sunday. 🤷🏽
Keeping the body flat as possible and tires on the ground at all times is what crawling is all about so to be honestly max flex isn’t overrated. Flex is majority of the capability. Guys on real trucks run tiny propane fueled motors on crawlers because they don’t need power to crawl
@@CapeCrawlers I get maximum flex from your mom.
Awesome video man! All the videos. I just got the same jeep earlier this week. Took some notes and will be building the flex machine next week after parts arrive. It’s a great truck thanks again for the video
Very good tips!! On the yellow keep, are you still running stock axles?
Thanks for watching! The yellow Jeep still has stock housings but I’ve installed +5mm axle shafts along with the heavy brass hexes.
@@CapeCrawlers awesome, thanks!!
Great info 😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm looking for an aftermarket Jeep body for the SCX24. Do you have any suggestions?
Check out Iceberg RC: icebergrc.com/collections/axial-bodies
I run double barrels on the rear with no springs and the internal spring shocks on the front. The double barrel unload when climbing and seen to cause it to flip more
I just tried something similar to this on our c10: stock shocks up front with flex extensions, double barrels on the back. Climbing ability is amazing! And it still flexes great 👍🏻
@@CapeCrawlers flex extensions?
@@petechipps9770 yea! Check these out: www.moforc.com/products/mofo-rc-flexblade-xrs-for-axial-scx24-now-even-flexier-than-before
They’re a great way to add capability to your stock shocks!
What kind of foams you running in your Gladiator and jeep?
I also have those same portals on my Gladiator. And I'm running the treal +5's on all four corners. I really wanted to stick to the conventional single barrel shocks, but I keep seeing the flex on these double barrels and I'm about convinced to get some.
@@cajunsrcandoutdooradventur4437 I’m running crawler innovation micro foams in both the gladiator and the JLU. Gladiator is medium compound and JLU is soft.
Trim the links to swivel more on the the ball mounts for the crazy flex
Never heard of this before!
While adding to stance increases stability in cases of high angle of articulation as well as yielding improved results on the tire stack test, it doesn't actually increase the available range of articulation.
Very true
Nice build what upgrades did u do to get ur scx24 so wide ? Try to get mine wider. Love the vids keep it up 👍🏻
I use axle extensions, mainly +5mm to accommodate big, heavy hexes. I also use the four piece beadlock wheels from Injora or RC4WD which allow you to flip the hubs around and gain some significant weight. Those two combined add ~10mm per side.
Whats that you are using on the lower endof the rear bronco shocks? (shown at 11:45), looks like it gives some extra extension while flexing and just drops on the axle while driving.
Yes, you're absolutely right. These are flex extensions made by Mofo RC. Grizzly Works RC also makes a great set of these. They add significant flex to stock shocks while largely maintaining stock shock geometry.
@@CapeCrawlers Thnx, never heard of them before but sounds awesome!
I've got the deadbolt. I tried 43mm double barrels and moved them back onto the frame. Problem is ...the drive shaft comes out since there is too much drop in the front tires ...make sense? What could I do different ? I mean, shorter shocks would work but wouldnt that lessen the flex for maneuverability?
You need some limiting straps. Check this out: th-cam.com/users/shorts2cFlJfdcZj8?feature=share
I tried that and the drive shaft rubs the rubberband...destroying the rubberband. Maybe your truck has more clearance between linkage and shaft ? Thanks for the advice though
The day I got my first one I cut all the fenders off and I absolutely love having no fenders with mine
So how would you suggest trimming a hard body?
I would use a dremel with a cutting wheel. Then sand by hand or with the sanding bit on said dremel. I cut my bronco with snips and it was scary as hell. It worked, but it would much easier with the proper tools.
Where’d you get those rims for the blue gladiator? I’m thinking of putting the on my c10 with the trail kings
They are the injora stamped steel beadlocks. I got them on Amazon.
That JL flexes really good. Can you do a JL build video like you did for your blue Gladiator?
Absolutely!
Thanks now I have to buy all new parts and change the build I just did lol.
LOL I’m a terrible influence 🤣
I have a similar build but have binding at slow speed. Any help? I have furitek stinger and i just di aws. I also have the stock gears inside
When you say binding, is it the motor hitching/cogging, or is it in the axles or driveshafts do you think? Just wondering if it's something you can tune with the Furitek app or solve with a firmware update versus something mechanical.
1. What weights do you have for your blue Gladiator?
2. I got the RC4WD Tires, which are smaller than those big tires, even if I get huge flex, I would think I don't need to cut up my body. 🤔
I think in this video I was using the coda racing wheel weights (10.4g). I’ve since upgraded to treal +5mm hexes. Regarding the body: you can a lot of flex without having to cut the body, especially on the gladiator. The tires tuck in the fenders pretty well. Other models, like the c10, need trimming almost immediately, but the jeeps can get away with stock fenders and scale tires I feel.
@@CapeCrawlers Yeah, I got hex wheel extenders on right now (forgot the brand, atm.), will definitely have to upgrade to Treal, for sure.
I’m running HR double barrels but I have no idea how to change out the springs. Anyone know how those shocks come apart
You unscrew the top of the shock. Then use your hex tool and stick it down into the shock body. The shock shaft is threaded, and you unscrew it from the top with the hex driver. When it comes apart you just slide the spring off the bottom.
@@CapeCrawlers thanks. Looks like the shafts were on pretty tight. Good to go
This is probably a foolish question but with furitek and lizard pro do you need to get a remote/ receiver?
It depends. The V1 electronics from the SCX24 (black esc box) are compatible with the Furitek parts. The V2 (blue box) is not, and would need to be replaced along with the transmitter.
Well I'm doing a ripper build all new. So that's answers my question...cuz that would mean I'm better off getting a receiver and a transmitter that can go to multiple cars. Thanks for the help!!
Curious how you flipped the wheels to have essentially negative offset wheels on the blue gladiator
Check out the last tip of this video: th-cam.com/video/dDu87SwVwpY/w-d-xo.html The wheels are a four piece design, with the hub being an independent piece. When assembling, you can bolt the hub onto what would traditionally be the front of the wheel.
How many times can you use the word articulation in 1 video.
what driveshaft do you recommend? i keep breaking the stock one
I use the Injora steel set. They've held up for over a year with no issues
Are you using different links? Even with shocks removed it doesn't have much flex. I'm assuming the pinion angle is maxing the flex out.
I use the aluminum high clearance links with one o ring removed at each mounting point
I swear I just bought a rig from a guy on Facebook that looks exactly like the yellow jk you have. Dude looks a lot like you lol
what did you do for upgraded servo mount, servo and servo horn? I have the C-10 and having a hard time finding all 3 parts that work together. thanks!
I like the Injora kit that comes with the Emax servo: INJORA RC Servo Steering Servo with Servo Mount Bracket and Arm for RC Car Boat Model Parts Axial SCX24 Upgrade Parts（Green）
The Injora mount works great with the four link conversion also
@@CapeCrawlers cool, thanks. That's what I was looking at and I also already did the injora high clearance 4 links.
After I got all the flex you could want my front drive shaft will comes apart how can I fix this
You need a limiting strap setup. Check this out: th-cam.com/video/2cFlJfdcZj8/w-d-xo.html
I never thought I would own a 24th scale now I own one and I never thought I would hate it as much as I do and they only reason I hate it as much as I do is if you drop a screw on the carpet it's gone forever
LOL sad but true!
Where do u buy you accessories
Awesome!!!👍👍🔥🔥🔥💪💯💯
I bought some double barrels when they 1st came out when you used the top off your stocks. I had nothing but trouble with them. They would bind no matter what I tried to correct it. I finally gave up on them. Are the new versions better or do they still suffer from binding?
I've only had troubles with binding on a couple sets, and even those I was able to fix with some tweaks to my setup. They sound drastically improved over what you experienced. The higher end shocks, like Hot Racing, have zero binding in my experience.
I ordered a set of the RCLions double barrels off Amazon we’ll see how they work out.
@@GeezerGramps I hope they do!
Good Vid! Can you provide a list of parts you mentioned?
Yes! I will go back through the vid and draw up the list 👍🏻
Do you know why my c10 won't turn good I have the emax servo and a lot of brass parts on it though
Have you got your end points set near max? It could just be too much weight for the emax. CVD axles can help improve your steering angle.
If I move the shocks I have a problem with the front drive shaft comes apart
You need some limiting straps. Check this video out: th-cam.com/users/shorts2cFlJfdcZj8?feature=share
Can I run those shocks on my trx4m or what shock do you remember for the trx4m
You can, but you have to pull out the pivot hardware and just let the shocks pivot on the mounting bolt. It's not ideal. No one has made long travel shocks specific for this rig yet, so we're still waiting. I have been using Losi mini B rear shocks on mine. FlubRC makes adapters to get them to bolt up nicely.
Nice video thanks
You're welcome! 👍
What motor to carry the additional strein due to wider base and heavier axles?
I run the Injora pro 50 in the blue gladiator and the Injora 66t in the other rigs. The mofo RC torque beast is a great motor too.
Awesome video!!!
Thank you!
@@CapeCrawlers I never thought about the tire being part of the “flex.” Great tips man, keep them comin! Did you vent your trail kings? And what weights are you using on that belly dragger?
@@Bigpotatocatcher I do vent the trail kings, and my scramblers. By belly dragger do you mean the JLU? On that I am running the +5mm axles and heavy hexes from Mofo RC.
@@CapeCrawlers yes the JLU, I just like the term belly dragger. Sweet, I was looking at them and couldn’t tell where ya got them. Thanks a lot!
I originally got a deadbolt (this is still the axial scx24) and I put the b-17 body on it. The tires constantly rub against the body and it makes it hard to drive. What suspension would be the best to prevent rubbing? (I also want to add the super swamper tires)
Any long travel suspension really. The 43mm double barrel shocks are all pretty similar although I’ve had great luck with the RCLions. Are you on stock shocks now?
@@CapeCrawlers I am currently on stock shocks.
Love it ❤
I have a question what to do if my shocks or too stiff??
You can take the springs out, swap in stock springs, grease the shock shaft.
Does o-rings on the links matter?
I feel like they help. It’s a bit like a batting glove in baseball: will it boost your batting average 20%? No. But it does help slightly, and incremental improvements do add up when you stack them with other mods.
nice 👍
Thanks! I'm all about that flex!
i just subbed
Thank you, I appreciate it!
what do you use to extend your wheel base on your jeep?
I’ve used various mods. My favorite is probably the mofo RC axle extensions with the heavy hexes. Then couple that with the stamped steel wheels with flipped hubs. Those two combined add a lot of weight and width. On the C10 I’m just using Injora hex extensions and those have worked great, especially from a budget standpoint
@@CapeCrawlers and one more question thats on front and back I assume
@@julianhills2000 Yes, that's right. Equal extensions front and back.
I was today years old when i found out youtube has an hdr option
Anyone know the link for those axle extensions?
This is what I would recommend for best fit and finish: www.moforc.com/products/axial-scx24-4mm-extended-axle-shafts-with-heavy-brass-hex-adapters-65g-of-weight
It's mostly positioning lol I get insane flex off my stock shocks 🤣
Stock shocks are probably the best for performance but I just can’t get the articulation I want out of them
@@CapeCrawlers have u tried laying them like right down u might have to drill a new mounting hole and use a tiny ass nut
Nice trucks ❤ new subscribe from me❤
Recommend*😂
ha he said scx2024
None of this applies to the deadbolt. Find another video
Bye bye finders. Let's destroy your money because you don't know what your doing. Great video. Think I've had enough. This is the worst video I've ever seen.
lol that much flex is not important
Nope, definitely not. But it sure is fun!
Plastic surgery lol