About your vent, Piper uses the Sling factory design except instead of a single aluminum flap they use a riveted “sandwich” of two aluminum plates with a disk of slightly larger diameter craft-foam as the seal. In your case, make the sandwich using a big sheet of foam then trace the disk with a thick Sharpie and cut the foam on the outside of the line. That would stop the rattle and make a good seal when closed.
I would think there would be some teflon or nylon bushings to help with the slop in the damper pin. You could also put some foam or nylon damper stops (half circle) to line the inside of the duct to seal the damper.
@@rvingjetpilot5302 thinking exactly the same thing...perhaps even teflon bushing too..if there is slop in the bore...probably work out well as a more smoothly operating action!
Great video. Too funny... last week I purchased three different types of single part "super glues" to do my own rivnut testing. Mixing epoxy seemed like too much hassle. Thanks for confirming my idea that super glue would work and be easier to apply. I agree with the comments on applying a flexible seal to the valve. Most legacy aircraft use this on their carb heat valve. It should improve the seal and stop the rattle.
Definitely interested in the Teflon fuel lines for my build. And the aluminum lines for inside the cabin. Also the duel piston calipers. Please keep us posted and keep up the good work.
Put an O-ring on the heater valve shaft to quiet the rattle. You can also put a bead of silicon around the plate to seal it better. Van's recommends this for their old plastic vents that are notoriously leaky.
Hoping to get myself into a better position so I can go for my PPL and really looking at the TSI kit. Regarding the rivnuts, what I would do is get the hex bodied nuts, get your hands on a punch that can put hex holes in the metal. Of course, that will depend on location and if the punch can reach. Would increase the torque the rivnuts can handle without spinning.
Although the installation of a rivnut through a single sheet of aluminum is a bit different than what you’re describing, the good news is the rivnut will hold just as well if you do choose to deburr the hole!
I remember you using MEK in a previous video. Sorry if you're already aware, but cyanoacrylate is soluble in methyl ethyl ketone and acetone. Just something to keep in mind when wiping down parts. Love the videos 👍🏻
Love the info on the fuel lines. I’m definitely going to want to go that route. Are you documenting this somewhere that we can source during our builds as “alternate” options? As others have commented, two? Are you sure they didn’t send you my kit by “accident”? I’m now waiting until maybe May. *sigh*
So glad you finally posted again. This was a really great one. My personal opinion...super glue works great. Use it all the time. As for the duct, I don't see much of an issue with the butterfly. There can't be that much bypass. But I will agree on the rattling. I couldn't take that. There would be nylon bushings in that.
I would almost attempt to add teflon blades on it to seal it better but I still don't like the design. I'm sure you will come up with something better.
I don’t know how much vibrabion the rivnuts will experience, but cyanoacrylate (superglue) is very brittle. In my past life making pen plotters, we had a lot of trouble with using cyanoacrylate in the pinch rollers that held the paper to the platen. It may not be an issue in the rivnut application, but I though you might appreciate a warning.
Good point! For the most part there’s pretty much no vibration on a lot of the rivnuts inside the plane. I probably should have mentioned I’d never use superglue on anything that’s critical to the function of the aircraft. Just the cosmetic side panels etc
@@EvanBrunye I didn't realize you meant this either. I was thinking, "I wouldn't use super glue in a structural fatigue situation." Interior cabin where it is only a static load on something cosmetic is probably fine but I would then just go with loctite honestly as the loads should be pretty low. If it is subject to a lot of vibration (what part in an airplane isn't) superglue might not be a great long-term solution, and it'll be tough to know when it has lost its integrity. Loctite is designed for this. Superglue, not so much.
The superglue results are interesting. I thought that superglue was weak in shear, which would be the force that I thought the rivnuts would see in your test.
You might give methacrylate adhesive a try on the rivnuts. I used it on bonding my aluminum hood scoop pan to the fiberglass scoop on my race car. And that thing will never come apart sitting on the carbs of a 1000hp engine.
TWO build assist projects at the same time. Nice! Since you completed your own Sling Tsi, I take it these two projects are going together at a faster pace? Has The Airplane Factory ironed-out the issues you ran into during your build? Thanks for the update, my wife and I were wondering how things were going for you.
They’re definitely moving much faster, airplane factory is still working hard to keep up with the massive demand for these planes but they’re doing very well!
Love you videos. Really rooting for you and your build assist business. What’s you capacity now and what do you hope to work up to? By innovating and improving the design you’ll continue to have a lot of business. Good luck.
I’ve got capacity for 3 planes, but have 2 going now. I don’t really want to take on more than that because with more projects there’s less time for keeping a high level of attention to detail on all of them
Well Evan. I will definitely be contacting you in the near future as I need some advise on ordering a kit, great idea for a video, as I’m not sure what kit to order or how far out they are on kit delivery. Really not a better plane out there for the money. Thanks.
@@AUCTIONEER816 sure man, I keep forgetting to mention in my videos I’m an official sling dealership now so I can definitely help you with that! Ebrunye@gmail.com
Are you really going to hear the rattle of the butterfly tube in flight? Regarding leaks around the butterfly valve, just use adhesive foam strip on the top and bottom of the valve.
What if you would apply the epoxy in an unheated shop? Lets say 50°F the epoxy would not come to full strenght. Amazing results with the superglue! Didn't think it would be that strong!
Building something new is just fun for me. What you see there will likely never be built into a sling, it’s just toying with some new ideas for a few hours on a Saturday afternoon
Hi Evan, great video and great news regarding the brake upgrade & fuel lines. I was wondering, since the TSi has the constant speed prop, if you suffer a complete electrical failure, how does that affect the propeller?
A complete electrical failure is unlikely, the engine has 2 generators creating power for the ecu and avionics, if you lose those the ecu prop and avionics can run on the battery as backup for a while. If you lose the engine you don’t need power to the prop after you set it to feather, so it’s not a big deal. And once again, the avionics will stay alive with the backup batteries
Ya I think I answered that in another video, or maybe I filmed one and never posted it I don’t remember. I fixed all the squawks pretty quick, the flaps were just the position settings in the vpx when you’re on the ground dont account for the force from the air in flight so it was triggering a runaway error during retract because it would overshoot its target position
Just curious which # Loctite are you using. For threads I've found red 262 is a nice compromise between holding/not loosening and being able to remove when needed without heating. Myself and several very experienced RC helicopter pilots use it on our radio control aircraft (these are 2k+ aircraft you build)
Well the application here is for the rivnuts, not the bolt that goes into the rivnut. These are notorious for slipping inside their mount holes. If you apply loctite to the bolt itself inside the rivnut, you will end up destroying the rivnut if you ever have to remove the bolt
About your vent, Piper uses the Sling factory design except instead of a single aluminum flap they use a riveted “sandwich” of two aluminum plates with a disk of slightly larger diameter craft-foam as the seal. In your case, make the sandwich using a big sheet of foam then trace the disk with a thick Sharpie and cut the foam on the outside of the line. That would stop the rattle and make a good seal when closed.
Hey... now that’s a great idea!
I would think there would be some teflon or nylon bushings to help with the slop in the damper pin. You could also put some foam or nylon damper stops (half circle) to line the inside of the duct to seal the damper.
@@rvingjetpilot5302 thinking exactly the same thing...perhaps even teflon bushing too..if there is slop in the bore...probably work out well as a more smoothly operating action!
Great idea on the sandwiched foam. That would eliminate most or all of the rattle too.
Great video. Too funny... last week I purchased three different types of single part "super glues" to do my own rivnut testing. Mixing epoxy seemed like too much hassle. Thanks for confirming my idea that super glue would work and be easier to apply. I agree with the comments on applying a flexible seal to the valve. Most legacy aircraft use this on their carb heat valve. It should improve the seal and stop the rattle.
I'm building a RV that's mostly solid rivets but that Sumake gun is awesome. I think it might end up in my tool box.
Great update Evan - MATCO BRAKE UPGRADE?
Just like you, I believe Chris on
Definitely interested in the Teflon fuel lines for my build. And the aluminum lines for inside the cabin. Also the duel piston calipers. Please keep us posted and keep up the good work.
Put an O-ring on the heater valve shaft to quiet the rattle. You can also put a bead of silicon around the plate to seal it better. Van's recommends this for their old plastic vents that are notoriously leaky.
Love these videos also love watching the growth of your business.
I heard a significant rattle, when Mojo fired up his TSI for the first time, I bet it was those ducts!
It definitely was, everyone has it!
Hoping to get myself into a better position so I can go for my PPL and really looking at the TSI kit. Regarding the rivnuts, what I would do is get the hex bodied nuts, get your hands on a punch that can put hex holes in the metal. Of course, that will depend on location and if the punch can reach. Would increase the torque the rivnuts can handle without spinning.
6:55 I thought deburring smooths out the metal to reduce stress risers that will help prevent cracks forming at the holes.
Although the installation of a rivnut through a single sheet of aluminum is a bit different than what you’re describing, the good news is the rivnut will hold just as well if you do choose to deburr the hole!
Seal the butterfly valve with a moly coating. Then break if free after it dries. It will for a perfect seal.
I love your idea of the sliding plate, but wonder how will behave at cold temperature.
I remember you using MEK in a previous video. Sorry if you're already aware, but cyanoacrylate is soluble in methyl ethyl ketone and acetone. Just something to keep in mind when wiping down parts. Love the videos 👍🏻
Love the info on the fuel lines. I’m definitely going to want to go that route. Are you documenting this somewhere that we can source during our builds as “alternate” options?
As others have commented, two? Are you sure they didn’t send you my kit by “accident”? I’m now waiting until maybe May. *sigh*
I bought the second kit a few months ago from a builder who was unable to complete the project
So glad you finally posted again. This was a really great one. My personal opinion...super glue works great. Use it all the time. As for the duct, I don't see much of an issue with the butterfly. There can't be that much bypass. But I will agree on the rattling. I couldn't take that. There would be nylon bushings in that.
The volume of air leak is almost impressive actually, it’s pretty much the only thing that is truly not adequate from the kit
I would almost attempt to add teflon blades on it to seal it better but I still don't like the design. I'm sure you will come up with something better.
@@dvsmotions I agree, Teflon would be a good idea. Also agree on not liking the design much lol, just trying to brainstorm
I don’t know how much vibrabion the rivnuts will experience, but cyanoacrylate (superglue) is very brittle. In my past life making pen plotters, we had a lot of trouble with using cyanoacrylate in the pinch rollers that held the paper to the platen. It may not be an issue in the rivnut application, but I though you might appreciate a warning.
Good point! For the most part there’s pretty much no vibration on a lot of the rivnuts inside the plane. I probably should have mentioned I’d never use superglue on anything that’s critical to the function of the aircraft. Just the cosmetic side panels etc
@@EvanBrunye I didn't realize you meant this either. I was thinking, "I wouldn't use super glue in a structural fatigue situation." Interior cabin where it is only a static load on something cosmetic is probably fine but I would then just go with loctite honestly as the loads should be pretty low. If it is subject to a lot of vibration (what part in an airplane isn't) superglue might not be a great long-term solution, and it'll be tough to know when it has lost its integrity. Loctite is designed for this. Superglue, not so much.
@@arpeltier that’s fine man, use what you’re comfortable with. I’m just providing raw data for people to use how they wish to use it
The superglue results are interesting. I thought that superglue was weak in shear, which would be the force that I thought the rivnuts would see in your test.
thanks for the videos!
You might give methacrylate adhesive a try on the rivnuts. I used it on bonding my aluminum hood scoop pan to the fiberglass scoop on my race car. And that thing will never come apart sitting on the carbs of a 1000hp engine.
Look into using a linear actuator instead of the servo for the vent.
TWO build assist projects at the same time. Nice! Since you completed your own Sling Tsi, I take it these two projects are going together at a faster pace? Has The Airplane Factory ironed-out the issues you ran into during your build? Thanks for the update, my wife and I were wondering how things were going for you.
They’re definitely moving much faster, airplane factory is still working hard to keep up with the massive demand for these planes but they’re doing very well!
Love you videos. Really rooting for you and your build assist business. What’s you capacity now and what do you hope to work up to? By innovating and improving the design you’ll continue to have a lot of business. Good luck.
I’ve got capacity for 3 planes, but have 2 going now. I don’t really want to take on more than that because with more projects there’s less time for keeping a high level of attention to detail on all of them
Well Evan. I will definitely be contacting you in the near future as I need some advise on ordering a kit, great idea for a video, as I’m not sure what kit to order or how far out they are on kit delivery. Really not a better plane out there for the money. Thanks.
@@AUCTIONEER816 sure man, I keep forgetting to mention in my videos I’m an official sling dealership now so I can definitely help you with that! Ebrunye@gmail.com
Are you really going to hear the rattle of the butterfly tube in flight? Regarding leaks around the butterfly valve, just use adhesive foam strip on the top and bottom of the valve.
You do hear it in flight. It’s worse on the ramp during taxi and runup, but I’m not a fan of metal rattling in my plane
What if you would apply the epoxy in an unheated shop? Lets say 50°F the epoxy would not come to full strenght. Amazing results with the superglue! Didn't think it would be that strong!
Not sure, my shop is heated to a consistent 68F
Exhaust cutouts eBay would work I'm sure regards Ray
Have you thought of simply putting a rubber seal around the oval disk? Seems like it would be the simplest solution without building something new
Building something new is just fun for me. What you see there will likely never be built into a sling, it’s just toying with some new ideas for a few hours on a Saturday afternoon
@@EvanBrunye got it. Enjoy the tinkering. I'm off to play with my mini lathe for a bit 😆
How’s the family? Are you getting a shop dog or cat any time soon?
Hi Evan, great video and great news regarding the brake upgrade & fuel lines. I was wondering, since the TSi has the constant speed prop, if you suffer a complete electrical failure, how does that affect the propeller?
A complete electrical failure is unlikely, the engine has 2 generators creating power for the ecu and avionics, if you lose those the ecu prop and avionics can run on the battery as backup for a while. If you lose the engine you don’t need power to the prop after you set it to feather, so it’s not a big deal. And once again, the avionics will stay alive with the backup batteries
... backing up a couple of weeks.... did you resolve your flap issue? What was the problem?
(keep up the great videos!)
Ya I think I answered that in another video, or maybe I filmed one and never posted it I don’t remember. I fixed all the squawks pretty quick, the flaps were just the position settings in the vpx when you’re on the ground dont account for the force from the air in flight so it was triggering a runaway error during retract because it would overshoot its target position
Please do videos on the Kitfox!
They’re coming sooner than you might expect ;)
👍
Leave it to a tech guy... he'll fig a way.
Just curious which # Loctite are you using. For threads I've found red 262 is a nice compromise between holding/not loosening and being able to remove when needed without heating. Myself and several very experienced RC helicopter pilots use it on our radio control aircraft (these are 2k+ aircraft you build)
Well the application here is for the rivnuts, not the bolt that goes into the rivnut. These are notorious for slipping inside their mount holes. If you apply loctite to the bolt itself inside the rivnut, you will end up destroying the rivnut if you ever have to remove the bolt
Try glex epoxy
Most 5 min epoxies are junk.
Gflex sorry. And great job