I know this post is 2 years old but on the bottom hole of the cover, cut or grind a slot to the hole. That way you can mount the screw first without fighting with the cover and then just slide the slotted hole over the screw. I've had Cub Cadets since 1972 and have been there and done that.
I’m so glad to have found your channel. Ive been an avid TH-cam watcher for many years. I have followed several machinists Abom79 I started following in 2015 when he had just a few subscribers. Kieth Rucker , Steve Summers, Post Apocalyptic inventor. But you’ve done something no one else has been able to do. You have explained how a hydrostatic drive works so well I would not be afraid to take one apart and put it back together again. Ive tried for at least 20 years to grasp how they work and not been able to. Ive worked around engines, transmissions, small and large even rebuilt Several Masada rotary engines. But for some reason no video of documentary has been able to do what you did. Thank you I’ve had a pet project I’ve wanted to do for several years. Now I believe I can make t happen. I’m like you retired and got time to fill. Ive also been a life long wood worker now turned to metal fabricator.. I watched every video you’ve posted on the Cub Dozer. Looking forward to seeing it’s completions. Thank You Dexter Ray
Thankyou so much for this video I have this problem with my newly acquired 129. I will follow your instruction and hopefully get this hard to start 129 going. Cheers Eric 💈
No, just remove the points cover and drag some fine sandpaper between the points. A dollar bill works well, too, for this purpose and is sometimes all that's needed. You are better off NOT being on the "S" as that will open the points and it's best when there is a bit of spring pressure holding the points together so there is some drag on the sandpaper when you pull it through the points contacts.
That is so cool I've replaced all that and I still don't have not one lick of fire I'm just maybe I just need to set them points I'm not sure it's got a brand new condenser it's got a brand new points got a brand new call and the magneto I'm not sure about but I had to not get another guy look at it and he said it's like what you said what yours is it's an older brand international so I'm going to try to point and thank you so much for the advice I can't figure it out I'll get back hold of you thank you
This is a good time to check the tightness of your basket pulley that your start/gen belt drives. If it becomes loose, in no time it will wipe out the snout of your crank. Talk about an expensive fix!!! Lot's cheaper to tighten a couple set screws now and then.
Your needing to reverse the direction of drive shaft. I’m sure this probably want work. What happens when you spin one rear tire clockwise what happens to the other side tire? Who says an axle can’t be a drive shaft.
Hi Frank I've enjoyed watching your bulldozer video I just wonder when you did your converting of the hydrostatic rear ends could you send method of way of doing it be done on a front-end loader
I used to do it that way, blocking the deck up on 2x4s so the pins would line up, but I've found it easier to wind the belt on the pulley afterwards. More than one way to skin a cat, as they say.
Do all coils have the same resistance ? Do all cubs require the same coil ? I recently purchased a new coil and the guy at the parts store said he thought they were all the same. The one I got says, "requires external resistor" on it and resistance across the two terminals measures only 1.9 ohms. Did I get the wrong coil ? Can you tell me the make and part number of the correct coil ? I'm putting this in a cub original with a 7 hp Kohler but I also have other cubs with either 10 or 12 hp engines so I would like to have one on the shelf to install if need be.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Thanks. Also , do you have any preferences of brands and where to buy or are they all the same on Amazon ? Same with points and condensers ?
I buy from my local NAPA usually. Bosch makes good coils and are popular with Cub owners. One place to do some research is ccspecialties.org. He has lots of NOS and custom parts for Cubs. Prices are sometimes higher but still fair and generally top quality. Kohler parts (points, condenser, for example) will be more than your NAPA generics. Probably not much difference. Pretty much anything you could need for the Cub Cadets can be had at ccspecialties.org. Here are some NAPA cross references for equivalent CC parts: Cross Reference Cub Cadet to NAPA (no coil unfortunately but they will have the Bosch coil in stock probably). Tie rod end CCC # 723-3018 NAPA # 7-04231 3/4" wheel bearing IH # 394883R93, NAPA # 7-04292 1" wheel bearing CCC # 741-3002, NAPA # 7-08412 Electronic Voltage Regulator plug NAPA # 7-016008 5 prong ignition switch plug NAPA # 7-016034 Breaker points Kohler # 47-150-03, NAPA # 7-01029 Condenser IH # 62188C1, Kohler # 230722-S, NAPA # 7-01338 Muffler, models 102-149 IH # 393840R91, NAPA # 7-03680 Hydro filter CCC # 723-3014, NAPA # 1084 Hydro filter for auto gear pump CCC # 723-3014, NAPA # 1410 Rear wheel seal CCC # 721-0187, NAPA # 9878 Hydro input seal IH # 394847R91, Sundstrand # 9008000-6201 NAPA # 6204 Hydro trunion seal SN 592014 & below IH # 383534R91 NAPA # 6720 Hydro trunion seal SN 592015 & above Sundstrand # 9008000-6701 NAPA # 6763 PTO bearing, models 70-169 IH # 60071C91 NAPA # RA100RR and PRA100RR (cheaper version) Engine oil filter Kohler 52-050-02-S, NAPA # 1348 Engine oil filter Kohler 12-050-01-S, NAPA # 1056 Shaft seal for Narrow Frame Hydraulic lift pump IH # 347478R91, NAPA # 4911 Sway bar repair kit to replace Quiet Line ISO mount rubbers NAPA # 265-1285 Spark Plug Cross Reference Chart Engine - Kohler K241 (10 HP), K301 (12 HP), K321 (14 HP), K341 (16 HP) Manufacturer and Number ------- Mfgr. Stock Number Champion H10C --------------------- 844 Denso W14L --------- -------------- 6013 NGK B4L ---------------------------- 3112 14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex. These plugs recommended for stock engines. Engine* - Kohler K241 (10 HP), K301 (12 HP), K321 (14 HP), K341 (16 HP) Champion H8C ------------------------ 587 14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex. *These are colder heat range plugs for use in modified engines with higher than stock compression ratios. Engine - Kohler K141 (6.25 HP), K161 (7 HP), K181 (8 HP) Champion J8C ------------------------- 841 14mm, 3/8 reach, 13/16 hex. Engine - Kohler KT17 Opposed Twin Champion RV17YC --------------------- 25 14mm, .460 reach, 5/8 hex. Engine - Onan 20 HP Opposed Twin Champion RC14YC --------------------- 431 14mm, 3/4 reach, 5/8 hex.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 This is awesome. Thanks ! More youtubers need to help people with finding parts. You could probably make good money by providing a link to something on Amazon or Ebay and collecting a small percentage. As long as you have bought and tried the product yourself, of course. I often hear that aftermarket carburetors are no good but maybe some are good. It just takes a little investigative work. Thanks again.
I'm hearing mostly good reports about the new knock-off carbs. I bought a couple off ebay, for like $20-$30 to have as spares. I've only used one, but it works fine. A real replacement Carter carb used to cost almost $300 when you could find one. Lots of used carbs out there, though, and easy to rebuild. That's mostly what I do. One complication with rebuilds is the throttle rod gets loose (and causes air leaks) due to wear over 50 years of operation, but brass sleeves/kits are available to take up the wear and get the carb working again. Some of the later 70's Cubs came with Walbro carbs and I'll change them out for a rebuilt Carter or one of the new knockoffs. The Walbro carbs are less adjustable and thus less desirable. Check out Ray's IH Parts on Facebook for used parts--anything you might imagine. Go look at OnlyCubCadets.net. It's a great forum with lots of technical resources and a helpful group of Cub collectors. Coil test procedure: www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11 Your "O" service manual, if you don't already have it: www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4645 (all the manuals are in that sub forum library) Good luck with your Cubs!
Well it's me again,, my 129 fires up beautifully now, thanks. What iam finding is as i throttle up the engine tends to struggle to come up to the correct rpm unless I nurse it back and forth. Once it's at full throttle no problem, but if I idle down it struggles to come backup to a higher rpm. Any thoughts I would appreciate. Cheers Eric
Could be any of a few different issues. Clean/rebuild the carb, ensuring all the jets are clean. Adjust the carb to spec per the manual. Good fuel flow, no restrictions from the tank to the carb. Good, non ethanol fuel. Proper air filter, Proper carb for the tractor/engine. (No telling what a previous owner put on it.) Properly adjusted governor, per the manual. Start with carb adjustment, then governor adjustment. Then clean the carb.
Thankyou..ive half #$$attempted to clean carb. But maybe its time to take to dealer and have them pro clean and adjust governor . Gas and fuel filter are new, fuel line are new. Once its warmed up it responds as it should. This issue us only on engine first starting. But one issue at time..sure starts great!!! Lol Cheers Eric 💈
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I know this post is 2 years old but on the bottom hole of the cover, cut or grind a slot to the hole. That way you can mount the screw first without fighting with the cover and then just slide the slotted hole over the screw. I've had Cub Cadets since 1972 and have been there and done that.
great idea!
nice job. that ignition system seems strange in today's world, although much simpler to understand. thanks for sharing.
I’m so glad to have found your channel. Ive been an avid TH-cam watcher for many years. I have followed several machinists Abom79 I started following in 2015 when he had just a few subscribers. Kieth Rucker , Steve Summers, Post Apocalyptic inventor. But you’ve done something no one else has been able to do. You have explained how a hydrostatic drive works so well I would not be afraid to take one apart and put it back together again. Ive tried for at least 20 years to grasp how they work and not been able to. Ive worked around engines, transmissions, small and large even rebuilt Several Masada rotary engines. But for some reason no video of documentary has been able to do what you did. Thank you I’ve had a pet project I’ve wanted to do for several years. Now I believe I can make t happen. I’m like you retired and got time to fill. Ive also been a life long wood worker now turned to metal fabricator.. I watched every video you’ve posted on the Cub Dozer. Looking forward to seeing it’s completions.
Thank You
Dexter Ray
Thank you so much!
He really needs to get a good screw starter, or magnetize his screwdriver.
Great Job and good instruction. Thanks for your training.
Thankyou so much for this video
I have this problem with my newly acquired 129. I will follow your instruction and hopefully get this hard to start 129 going.
Cheers Eric 💈
Let us know how you fare. Good Luck!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 thankyou...iam checking for spark and really nothing at all or intermittent. Check coil and seem to be fine
Clean the points.
Do i need to rotate flywheel to find the S first??
No, just remove the points cover and drag some fine sandpaper between the points. A dollar bill works well, too, for this purpose and is sometimes all that's needed. You are better off NOT being on the "S" as that will open the points and it's best when there is a bit of spring pressure holding the points together so there is some drag on the sandpaper when you pull it through the points contacts.
Well, you’ve put a good tuneup on it. Should be good for awhile!
That is so cool I've replaced all that and I still don't have not one lick of fire I'm just maybe I just need to set them points I'm not sure it's got a brand new condenser it's got a brand new points got a brand new call and the magneto I'm not sure about but I had to not get another guy look at it and he said it's like what you said what yours is it's an older brand international so I'm going to try to point and thank you so much for the advice I can't figure it out I'll get back hold of you thank you
This is a good time to check the tightness of your basket pulley that your start/gen belt drives. If it becomes loose, in no time it will wipe out the snout of your crank. Talk about an expensive fix!!!
Lot's cheaper to tighten a couple set screws now and then.
Your needing to reverse the direction of drive shaft. I’m sure this probably want work. What happens when you spin one rear tire clockwise what happens to the other side tire? Who says an axle can’t be a drive shaft.
Hi Frank I've enjoyed watching your bulldozer video I just wonder when you did your converting of the hydrostatic rear ends could you send method of way of doing it be done on a front-end loader
I don't understand what you are asking. There are videos on the channel that show all the changes.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 thank you ,
The belt goes on before you snap the rear pins in on the mower deck.
I used to do it that way, blocking the deck up on 2x4s so the pins would line up, but I've found it easier to wind the belt on the pulley afterwards. More than one way to skin a cat, as they say.
Frank you need invest in a screw driver that holds the screw.
I got some socket head cap screws! Work like a charm.
Do all coils have the same resistance ? Do all cubs require the same coil ? I recently purchased a new coil and the guy at the parts store said he thought they were all the same. The one I got says, "requires external resistor" on it and resistance across the two terminals measures only 1.9 ohms. Did I get the wrong coil ? Can you tell me the make and part number of the correct coil ? I'm putting this in a cub original with a 7 hp Kohler but I also have other cubs with either 10 or 12 hp engines so I would like to have one on the shelf to install if need be.
All Cubs from the 60's and 70's use the same INTERNAL Resistor coils. You got the wrong coil.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Thanks. Also , do you have any preferences of brands and where to buy or are they all the same on Amazon ? Same with points and condensers ?
I buy from my local NAPA usually. Bosch makes good coils and are popular with Cub owners. One place to do some research is ccspecialties.org. He has lots of NOS and custom parts for Cubs. Prices are sometimes higher but still fair and generally top quality. Kohler parts (points, condenser, for example) will be more than your NAPA generics. Probably not much difference. Pretty much anything you could need for the Cub Cadets can be had at ccspecialties.org. Here are some NAPA cross references for equivalent CC parts: Cross Reference Cub Cadet to NAPA (no coil unfortunately but they will have the Bosch coil in stock probably).
Tie rod end CCC # 723-3018 NAPA # 7-04231
3/4" wheel bearing IH # 394883R93, NAPA # 7-04292
1" wheel bearing CCC # 741-3002, NAPA # 7-08412
Electronic Voltage Regulator plug NAPA # 7-016008
5 prong ignition switch plug NAPA # 7-016034
Breaker points Kohler # 47-150-03, NAPA # 7-01029
Condenser IH # 62188C1, Kohler # 230722-S, NAPA # 7-01338
Muffler, models 102-149 IH # 393840R91, NAPA # 7-03680
Hydro filter CCC # 723-3014, NAPA # 1084
Hydro filter for auto gear pump CCC # 723-3014, NAPA # 1410
Rear wheel seal CCC # 721-0187, NAPA # 9878
Hydro input seal IH # 394847R91, Sundstrand # 9008000-6201 NAPA # 6204
Hydro trunion seal SN 592014 & below IH # 383534R91 NAPA # 6720
Hydro trunion seal SN 592015 & above Sundstrand # 9008000-6701 NAPA # 6763
PTO bearing, models 70-169 IH # 60071C91 NAPA # RA100RR and PRA100RR (cheaper version)
Engine oil filter Kohler 52-050-02-S, NAPA # 1348
Engine oil filter Kohler 12-050-01-S, NAPA # 1056
Shaft seal for Narrow Frame Hydraulic lift pump IH # 347478R91, NAPA # 4911
Sway bar repair kit to replace Quiet Line ISO mount rubbers NAPA # 265-1285
Spark Plug Cross Reference Chart
Engine - Kohler K241 (10 HP), K301 (12 HP), K321 (14 HP), K341 (16 HP)
Manufacturer and Number ------- Mfgr. Stock Number
Champion H10C --------------------- 844
Denso W14L --------- -------------- 6013
NGK B4L ---------------------------- 3112
14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex. These plugs recommended for stock engines.
Engine* - Kohler K241 (10 HP), K301 (12 HP), K321 (14 HP), K341 (16 HP)
Champion H8C ------------------------ 587
14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex.
*These are colder heat range plugs for use in modified engines with higher than stock compression ratios.
Engine - Kohler K141 (6.25 HP), K161 (7 HP), K181 (8 HP)
Champion J8C ------------------------- 841
14mm, 3/8 reach, 13/16 hex.
Engine - Kohler KT17 Opposed Twin
Champion RV17YC --------------------- 25
14mm, .460 reach, 5/8 hex.
Engine - Onan 20 HP Opposed Twin
Champion RC14YC --------------------- 431
14mm, 3/4 reach, 5/8 hex.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 This is awesome. Thanks ! More youtubers need to help people with finding parts. You could probably make good money by providing a link to something on Amazon or Ebay and collecting a small percentage. As long as you have bought and tried the product yourself, of course. I often hear that aftermarket carburetors are no good but maybe some are good. It just takes a little investigative work. Thanks again.
I'm hearing mostly good reports about the new knock-off carbs. I bought a couple off ebay, for like $20-$30 to have as spares. I've only used one, but it works fine.
A real replacement Carter carb used to cost almost $300 when you could find one. Lots of used carbs out there, though, and easy to rebuild. That's mostly what I do. One complication with rebuilds is the throttle rod gets loose (and causes air leaks) due to wear over 50 years of operation, but brass sleeves/kits are available to take up the wear and get the carb working again.
Some of the later 70's Cubs came with Walbro carbs and I'll change them out for a rebuilt Carter or one of the new knockoffs. The Walbro carbs are less adjustable and thus less desirable.
Check out Ray's IH Parts on Facebook for used parts--anything you might imagine.
Go look at OnlyCubCadets.net. It's a great forum with lots of technical resources and a helpful group of Cub collectors.
Coil test procedure: www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11
Your "O" service manual, if you don't already have it: www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4645
(all the manuals are in that sub forum library)
Good luck with your Cubs!
They make a twist look screw holder it would make it easier
or change to socket head cap screws...
Well it's me again,, my 129 fires up beautifully now, thanks. What iam finding is as i throttle up the engine tends to struggle to come up to the correct rpm unless I nurse it back and forth. Once it's at full throttle no problem, but if I idle down it struggles to come backup to a higher rpm. Any thoughts I would appreciate.
Cheers Eric
Could be any of a few different issues. Clean/rebuild the carb, ensuring all the jets are clean. Adjust the carb to spec per the manual. Good fuel flow, no restrictions from the tank to the carb. Good, non ethanol fuel. Proper air filter, Proper carb for the tractor/engine. (No telling what a previous owner put on it.) Properly adjusted governor, per the manual. Start with carb adjustment, then governor adjustment. Then clean the carb.
Thankyou..ive half #$$attempted to clean carb. But maybe its time to take to dealer and have them pro clean and adjust governor . Gas and fuel filter are new, fuel line are new. Once its warmed up it responds as it should. This issue us only on engine first starting. But one issue at time..sure starts great!!! Lol
Cheers Eric 💈
On the grader did you turn some unit backwards
Don't understand what you are asking...