ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2020
- Is 6X7 really that better than 645 when developing and scanning at home? For me personally, no. BUT the Mamiya RZ67 does have a special workflow to it that intruiges me, so ill be holding on to it for now.
Instagram: @CamMacky - / cammacky
Can checkout Phils IG at / touchekvlt
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I love your videos because they genuinely feel like you have a thought, act on it, and make a video immediately.
Hahaha well that’s exactly how they happen!!!! I’m constantly drowning in deadlines so I just kinda gotta go with the flow a d film when I can
Love your take on everything, I’m a fan now
Loved this!! What lenses are you working with on both? Thinking about getting the 645 AFD but it will depend on price. Finally moving up from 35mm so big moment! Thanks for your great and thorough videos!
Great video.
I have horrible eyesight, but I tend to get the best result using a waist level finder. That flip-up magnifier is an absolute Godsend for nailing focus, but it does slow me down so it's a tradeoff.
Great comparison! I actually shoot with a Mamiya 645 Pro TL and thanks to your video I really don’t see a need to “upgrade” to 6x7. 645 is an incredibly capable format and I do love how I get 15 shots out of a roll and converted to digital I get 35 megapixels which is nothing to sneeze at.
6x7 is awesome but it obviously doesn’t blow 645 out the water. Cool video man!
Thank you for covering this topic!
Dope video! Would be cool to see a Pentax 645N comparison to the Mamiya 645AF. I think a lot o ppl, including myself, are in between those to models when thinking to take the leap into medium format territory also because of the similar price range and features. At least on paper, the Pentax has a much better autofocus system with 3 points but would be interesting to see them compared by a professional like you. On the other hand the Pentax's shutter speed goes down to 1/1000 whereas Mamiya's goes 1/4000...would be great to see them both in a setting where this gap could make a difference. And of course there's the image quality/differences that would be cool to spot...if any. Cheers and keep 'em coming :D!
I get some similar inconsistencies with the lab box. Frustrating for sure. Trying to decide on a 645afd. Great video!
I use a Mamiya 67 and absolutely love it, that said, I also use a 645 because it has its place, smaller, lighter and more agile in certain circumstances. Like you say, different tools for different jobs and both have their place.
BTW: for the RZ67 you can change out the screen to a split-screen, pretty simple to do. I have been using the RZ67 for 2 decades and I use a split screen ALWAYS.
Cam, I can definitely recommend the 110 if you like 50mm focal length. The mirror up mode helps with slower shutter speeds, so get a shutter release cable. Love your work, man
Hmmm I’ll have to test this mirror up. Seems difficult if shooting fashion.. kinda need to see the moment lol
if you ever get the chance, give the Hasselblad 500cm a try. that is my favorite medium format camera.
Really nice video! I agree that 645 is just enough for most of people...
Hey, quite new to medium format. Are you able to adapter mamiya rz67 glass to mamiya 645 or vise versa?
I use RZ67 mostly with 645 film back, and image quality is superb. I didn't have a chance to compare to the native 645 systems but I bet it is not eorse if not better.
Love your videos, take on things and style! On this, I get that there is more resolution, but this may come more down to lenses, focus, etc. There is more resolution, but linearly on the long end there is a 7/6 = ~16% increase in resolution on the long end and 6/4.5 = ~33% increase in resolution on the shorter end. And, as soon as you start cropping to get different aspect ratios, you could be losing that extra resolution very quickly.
Thank you! For resolution I don’t care as much personally for film. BUT I just picked up another rz67 because if the focusing and rotating back!
I shoot both but it has to be a very specific shoot for me to go 67. Those extra 5 frames save it every time.
Were the images you showed at the beginning on the 645 or the 67?
Awesome that you finally tried 67. Like I said before, the camera you need to try is a Pentax 67II with the upgraded large viewfinder and built-in meter, plus wooden grip. I shoot professionally with a GFX100 and a 67II after years using PhaseOne gear and getting over all of it for more reasons I care to blather about. For me is the perfect combo and I think you will get there as well if you try hard enough and finally realize what you can really get from it.. despite your bad eyes. Has to be with a Pentax 67II because even being large body, its the only 67 camera that feels and shoots just like a 35mm SLR. Of course, the Mamiya is great and will always be. Cheers.. awesome photos as always by the way 📸🌵☀️
Yeah I’m thirsting to get my hands on one!
You’ll love it.. and it’s not at first sight, takes time to get into it. Looking forward to see you have one in your hands and you making magic with it. Remember, NOT an original 67.. you need a 67II (world’s apart in terms of refinement and usability) with the exact viewfinder combo and grip as I
mentioned. Till then, just keep shooting with whatever you have because in your hands, all gear performs stellar❤️
Great videos as always!! Sometimes you will get blotchy negatives if the water you are rinsing with is too cold. It will make the grain contract. Not sure if that’s what it is going in here though.
Hmmm I usually set my running water to 102 fir the rinse. I just picked up new chemicals. Gonna try one last rolls with the old chemicals and the Paterson tank to see if it’s the black lab box or the chemicals
@@cammackey Ah, the joys of developing at home. Sounds like it is probably the chemicals then. Just curious, off topic, do you have any special settings you use when scanning?
You need to find a Hasselblad H1 or other H series camera. They have the best auto focus for medium format cameras. The 100mm 2.2 lens is killer too.
If the blotching appears totally random, I would question the film stock (stored wrong - heated) if it seems specific to one tonal range I would guess there is a problem with your chemicals. Maybe a reactive issue. Like a 'stand' vs. 'agitate' issue. My other guess, and its a long shot, is that you may have a static electricity issue if its dry. I've heard of one desert photographer who had issues with static on loading film about 30 years ago...they changed film bag if I recall and it went away. Good vid. Film is awesome! Keep goin'!
Hmm I was actually thinking about this.. I bought this film in a bundle with the 645 so wondering if it could of been possibly faulty
wow what app did you used on your phone?
I love your channel!
I have and use both cams, I have a split image center on my 645 and focus manually, My eyes are not good either. Of course for your fashion portraits af is the way to go to nail some shots. That blotching almost looks like the film could have been moist before you used it but in your dry environment it doesn't seem possible, also maybe some air bubbles clinging to the film during some part of the processing.
I’ve gone through new chemicals and still get it lightly. The house and area I live in are extremely dry and dusty, so I’m assuming it’s dust getting on everything some how
Love all of your videos man. Have you tried the Contax 645. I used to own the Mamiya, in fact I started in the 80s with the 1000s and have had every Mamiya up to the 645af2, then it was stolen and I bought the Contax. it's so sexy. Wanna borrow it & do a video on it?
The RZ is equally sharp as the AFD. It really boils down to being more cautious of making sure you aren’t shaking when firing that shutter. The AFD is pretty much like any SLR that doesn’t have a ton of heft to it. You can also get away with more mistakes because of the faster shutter speed. I think this Is also why the waist level is a little better for the RZ because when you bring that camera lower you can actually let your arms rest which in turn keeps the camera more steady. Obviously, film stock choice is equal to the sharpness but loom and portraits are almost even, loom just has more grain on all stocks but its not or grade film so to be expected.
I've been itching for another Film camera as I currently shoot around with a 500CM and while I do love it and I can crop it to a 645 aspect ratio, however I think 67 is in my next purchase. I've been eyeing up the Pentax 67 to add to my collection.
I’m def gonna try get my hands on a Pentax 67!!
@@cammackey I had an older manual focus Mamiya 645 and I think it was just old and I really didn't enjoy shooting with it. I think if I went with the AFD though it would be way better with the AF and better glass. Just something about that Pentax 67 though that has my eye and that 110 lens. Just so crazy how much the $$ of Film cameras have skyrocketed in the last 3 or so years since it's like a trendy thing now a days.
Awesome video!
That blotching is from the chemicals having bubbles in them (probably from photo-flo residue) and the liquid level not being high enough. It’s really apparent in the left shot at 11:35.
I HAD A HUNTCH IT WAS THAT. You’re literally the only person who has told me that. How do I get rid of the bubbles? Just pour slower?
@@cammackey I think with the lab box you can use less chemicals and do constant agitation, or do more and agitate intermittently (I'd go with the latter, more chemical). The developer is probably the one foaming, so just be careful with it so it doesn't bubble up. Also with the higher chemical level the entire roll of film should be submerged so any bubbles on top shouldn't affect it.
The colors are described as camera differences instead of lens differences. Is that just because the lenses don’t swap? Also, can your auto focus be fixed on the 645? Seems critical given how many times you said focusing was important to you.
The cameras have zero to do with film colors... I developed them separately so the difference in color is from that. I developed at home so I don’t get consistent colors sometimes. And I don’t think there’s a way to fix it. Gonna see what focusing screens I can get for times I gotta go into manual focus
the blotching is from not hving enough chemicals in your developing tank, it happend to me while back
Does the blotching happen on all the same photos in that pack, or just a few? What result do you get with other film packs you have put through that camera? Do they also get the blotching? Just thinking out loud...consider using some compressed air and blowing that camera out...try a different film brand, deep clean your dark room area, or change film changing bag. Unfortunately, I think you might have to try a few different things to isolate the cause. Best of luck though...Cheers
Man it’s actually pretty random. It’s usually not on every frame. Some rolls will have 2-3 random frames with it and they’ll have similar patterns. Some rolls will have it on 4-5 frames and it’ll be all random. I’ve ran some Portra 160 and 800 and don’t recall if they had it or not. It’s happened with the 645 AFD and the RZ67 so it’s def not a camera issue. Imma change out my Labbox with my current chemicals and see if that fixes it
@@cammackey Hmmm, maybe pay extra attention to the conditions or surroundings you are in when you load up a fresh pack of film. And, for that I mean, I would go so far as to suggest you consider carrying a small pocket notebook just to jot down some notes; time, day, conditions, heat (temp), where you did what...know what I mean? If there are enough incidences, perhaps this method will help you isolate the circumstances causing the problem. Check all the simple stuff first. And, do keep us informed...I'd like to know how this turned out.
Oh, and check the date on that film too!
@@cammackey Hey, I just thought of something else...after you dump your developer out of the tank, and get ready to rinse the tank out with water, is the water you are using considered "rough" water, i.e. lots of minerals and other micro-sedimentary particles? I wonder if that stuff is drying leaving the blotches. Also, as you probably already know, the temperature of the developer (liquids) are important as well when developing ...if you have been re-using some of those, perhaps, those solutions need to be tossed in favor of fresh solutions. Hit me like a ton of bricks...wanted to mention it incase the info serves you well. Cheers
You have very distinctive look on your insta photos. Do you mind sharing how you achieve it?
10 years of doing this and having a strong vision and sense of self! We all have the same tool available to use, no fancy tricks or anything required. Just all about having a vision.
I just sold my Mamiya 645 AFD. It's a true workhorse! It feels like 35 mm camera. :)
I don’t think I’ll ever sell it!
Thx bro
Perhaps buy a Jobo processor?
645 is better hand down for portraits. I had a Fuji GA645Zi and it was such a great camera. My Rb67 is cool but I like 645 better
Why would you say the 645 is better for portraits?
@@cammackey I just really love the size of the negative and for some reason I've always got sharper images on 645 than 6x7 . I actually just bought a Mamiya 645 AF
With the RZ67 only going down to 1/400s you can always use ND filters or not shoot box speed.
With the "RZ lenses are slower" - you should try the Sekor 110/2.8 then :D
Yeah that’s why I ultimately stayed with the 645AFD. The fast shutter speed simplifies life. It’s def more fast pace
@@cammackey Yup, can't beat the 1/4000s shutter. 1/400s was the second biggest reason why I sold my RZ67 within weeks of buying it.
My 645 AFD will not fire anymore and says "error 02". Seems like an awesome camera but finding professional service is impossible. One of the biggest camera repair shops in Manhattan turned me away. If anyone has any knowledge on this error please let me know. Thanks for the video, I love Mamiya
unrelated--- Are you still happy with your Z-cam purchase?
It's not a question of 6x7 vs 645. It's a question of specific lens + camera + film + use case combinations.
645 can be better than 67 and 67 can be better than 645, depends on multiple other factors, not just frame size!
Well duhhhhh lol. That’s why I wanted to match up film stocks with equivalent lenses to see which package was best for me. Was seeing why everyone is so obsessed with 6x7. It def has a little extra pop.. but most of my film work just goes on IG, so does it really matter? Nah.
@@cammackey With the lenses you used it's not going to be noticeable on IG. It could be visible if you used a 110/2.8 Sekor on the RZ67. And would be visible if you used a Pentax 67 with the 105/2.4 standard it came with. There are also many lenses with a unique look that you could adapt to the Pentax 67 or Mamiya 645 as well. It's all about the lenses, and the standard ones are usually crap anyway :D All are just sharp and contrasty, no character whatsoever :P
@@KNURKonesur I actually prefer sharp and contrast. I do mainly commercial work so like it to be clean. Even with my video work, I run zero filters on my lenses. My perspective on it is all my favorite commercial and films are clean.. sometimes anamorphic but still clean. So I stopped buying in to all diffusion filters and “character” lenses
I couldn't decide which one to get so I got both lol
As long as I get some what of a deal on it, can always resell it so that’s usually the way I roll lol
Woah what the hell I live in the same city as this guy! hahaha
damn, need to come later. 360p gang x)
It’s all good now!
Mamiya 7 the lover, rz67 the wifey.
I might do the Pentax 67 next!
@@cammackey Yes, please!
Yes , unreliable focus of 645 and smaller negative, I moved to RZ67
Sounds like the lab box is awful. Sounds like the Patterson tank is better.
The price of cheese is getting ridiculous.
Skip the 110 and get the 90 x