Very good detailed video. I've done well over 100 rear wheel removals and have down to a procedure where you leave the caliper all installed to the bracket and wiggle it off the rotor as you jack up the rear and after the axle is removed and belt slid off rear sprocket. I do not relieve any adjuster tension and after reassembly the tension and adjustment of the belt will be identical to pre-disassembly. It's a bit of a 3 handed job the first few times but I can have the wheel off, out, back in and torqued in about 11 minutes... Next one I do I'll have my buddy video my procedure. I do suggest everyone does your way first for sure, so they understand to shortcuts I take. Nonetheless a big thanks for taking the time to share your procedure! 😎
I followed your instructions and replaced the rear tire - saved $150-- worked perfectly --now i just need to check the belt allignment and maybe adjust. many thanks wayne
Thank you for making these video's. They help tremendously. I do everything myself instead of paying a lot of money to let someone else do it. This really helps.
Great video thank you so much. Headed to watch the brake video next. My rear tire came apart at 16700ish a few weeks ago. Then found out that they (stock tire) only lasts around 10k. Yeah. So LaMonster to the rescue. Since I'm replacing the tire I will be putting on the wheel balancers and replacing the brake pads since I'll have it all torn apart anyhow. Really appreciate this video and like I said I'm headed over to watch the others. Thank you for sharing.
Wow 😳 a lot of work and effort put into one damn tire. I’ll just stick to the dealer installing my tires from here on out. I will just focus on changing my brakes and oil change etc on my vehicles. To scared my tires might brake loose and fly down the road. Great video! Cheers 🍺
It’s expensive at the dealer… I was really apprehensive but after a few hours … I did my other RT too! With 2 of these RT…. I can’t be running around town dropping 300$ for oil changes and 500$ for rear tire changes…
Another Great Tutorial ... I did my Belt Alignment recently! It took me about half a dozen goes to get it just right ... It's now around 1.5 to 2mm out from the rear sprocket flange. When I bought it ... It was riding hard up against the flange! I told the dealer & he said ... Not to worry about it! Just Typical hey ... Ryde safe brother 👍😁🤘🙏🇦🇺 Beanie
I saw a tip on tightening the wheels. If you let the tire down on the ground some, the force will cause the axel to push forwards. The adjusters will then be tight.
Nice video. Always nice to see how other folks do stuff. I don't see any reason to disconnect the ride height sensor rod. The only reason to do it is if you disconnect the shock. Since you didn't do that. No need to do the other. I had a Kumho tire on my STL. Hated it. Interesting that you where happy with yours.
Thanks, you are correct on the ride sensor, it didn’t need unhooked. I was just being extra cautious. I had no issues with the kuhmo until it was about wore out. It got a little “slippery”. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed your tips on how to remove the rear tire and install a new one. I'm interested in the highway pegs you have installed on your RT. What is the make and model of the pegs?
Howard Hexum, they are NBV Highway Brackets from Lamonster with Kuryakyn Dually ISO Pegs. Here is a link to my video on installing them: th-cam.com/video/mzbm4SD1GOQ/w-d-xo.html And a link to Lamonster’s store: www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-rt-nbv-highway-brackets-pegs-lamonster/ I really like these.
Another great video. I am going to be changing out my rear tire after this riding season and I have a question as to removing the HUB. I am confused as to, " if I have to remove it or not", before taking it the dealer to have the new tire put on. And also, do only MC shops change these tires out, or can I utilize a regular tire shop? I was thinking about your Q5's while on my ride yesterday, and thinking this is going to be my front replacements after this season as well. Your videos are such a great help for us newby Spyder owners. TY.
Bill Pettit, it is not really a split rim. The left side of the hub, (the half that the sprocket slides into), is bolted to the wheel which has the right half of the hub built into it. I will probably go ahead and mount the other new tire onto the original wheel to be ready to install when the Kenda is wore out.
I wound up having to replace the rear bearings on my 3rd tire an RT43 I replaced a Michelin after 24k miles on a 2012 RT. I now have a 14RTSE6 LTD around 24k had a kumho almost 12k on it put an arachnid dealer gave me a good price on. Hoping my bearings last a little longer. Did not know about the change in the wheels.
This is the first video I have seen where the lower rear shock bolt was not removed. Apparently, the wheel can slide out from under the fender of nd RT or F3L without disconnecting the shock. Correct?
Correct, I've done three rear tires and have not un-bolted the rear shock yet. No need to unhook the ride position sensor as well, as long as you don't take the bolt out of the shock.
always good to see people wrenching on their own stuff. I am curious the brand of tires you went with....couldn't quite make out the name. Thanks again for the vids
geep, The fronts are Vredestein Quatrac 5, 175/55 R15, They make a 165 also. I love those things! It rides and handles much better than the stock Kendas.
I think I have the twin to Own It’s R/T and also Have the Verdestine tires and and ran them all last summer, like the man says you won’t believe the difference in the performance! So nice......
Do you have a list of different bolt Torque spec without watching the entire video. I have watched all your videos and I am sorry, I should have written the torque spec's down when I was watching. Thanks, Gary
Thanks for posting your video's, I also have a 2014 RTS and have been doing my own maintaince since finding your TH-cam channel. I start every maintaince job with watching how you did it first. Thank you.
We are going to take a similar trip this summer out west from Tennessee to Sturgis and on to Seattle. Are there any places that you recommend to see and any places you would by pass?
Wife's 2012 RT LTD comes with the 14" front tires. Local auto tire shop where I bought the tires says they can't balance them because they don't have the proper equipment for that rim. Do you bother having your tires balanced? Second question. When looking at the rear axle, it looks like part of it is cut out on the threads past the nut where you can kinda flare them out to keep the nut from backing off. Is that how it's designed?
I would definitely get them balanced. You might try different tire shops. Lamonster sells a liquid balancer that might be an option as well. The rear axle nut doesn’t need anything besides the proper torque. I’m not sure on the pre-14’s but mine is 166ft/lbs.
I also am not a fan of Kenda tires even though I have got over 12000 out of my original rear tire. I would like to put a different brand on my machine but dealers seem to be unwilling to mount them. Can a regular tire shop mount and balance them?
Scott Harrington, wow, I’ve got not quite 6,000 on this one and it is almost bald already. I ride pretty hard and am sure that has a lot to do with my tire life. When I took my wheel to a Spyder dealer to mount the Kuhmo, they started in on the “car tire lecture”. I interrupted him and told him I didn’t come for a lecture and if they didn’t want to do it, I would find someone else that would. They mounted it. I know a regular tire shop can mount and balance the front tires, I am not sure if their machine will mount the rear but I know they can’t balance the rear because the axle diameter is too small for the machine. I am planning on mounting this Vredestein myself and using beads for balancing it. I’ll do a video.
Is that the new Kenda K-20 Kanine tire they just came out with a few months ago or the old one ? The new Kenda tire exerts a better rubber and tire quality and design for better traction and up to 3 times the life span!!! At a cheaper price for the tires too. I found all three for around $227. Might try them when my factory kendas are wore out on my 2018 RT
It is the old one. It came with the wheel I bought. I’ve put 5,000 miles on it in the last month and in probably 2,000 more it will need replacing. Grrrr
I already have a Vredestein waiting to replace thIs one. I’ll see what the reports are on these new Kenda’s before diving into them. I have a serious dislike for the Kenda brand right now.
It is a fact that petroleum based grease shouldn’t be used on rubber or silicone. I thought that was nonsense for the longest time but it’s actually true.
paul casey, 205/65 R15 m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
No, as long as you don’t have the parking brake set, the caliper will slip off the rotor and right back on. The sensor doesn’t need disconnected as long as you don’t disconnect the rear shock.
Just got done taking off the rear wheel using a combination of your video and Finless Bob's. Kudos to both of you guys! Biggest difference I see is the removal of the ride height sensor. On your video it seems that you don't have the spinning capture nut problem that Bob and I encountered. I had to get a small vice-grip to hold onto the nut. How did you avoid this? Also I see that you didn't need to use anything to hold the capture nut when you put it back on.
Robert Fitta I installed the new Vredestein on the rear a few weeks ago and l love it. It is a 205/65r15, so it is a little narrower and taller but it rides great and my speedo is less than 1 mile an hour off now as opposed to almost 3 before. I ordered mine from tire rack. Don’t fill in the part where they ask you what vehicle it is for, they might not sell it to you. Just skip that part of the ordering process. Here is a link: m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
@@davidvuchetich3045 I took it to my local tire shop to get it mounted. They couldn’t get it on their balancer so we just used glass balancing beads. I am going to pick up a manual tire changer from Harbor Freight and do my own next time. I’ll do a video on it.
They are great! They wear evenly, improve the ride and handling, and will last much longer than the OEM Kenda tires. These tires are one of the best things I’ve done to this.
I don't trust anyone wrenching on my vehicles, if it is something I can do. Did you remove the height sensor when you readjusted the belt tracking? Did you remove it when you did the rear tire recently?. Do you really need to if you don't remove the shock bolt?
I did remove it the for that tire change, but you are correct, it doesn’t need to be removed unless you take the shock loose. I changed the rear tire again and did not take the ride position sensor off.
Using your videos to help me learn to do my own work so I'm going to ask you for more help I need to pull the wheel to replace the rotor and rear brakes. Do I need to pull the hitch? If so, what can you tell me about that? It is the BRP hitch.
I haven’t actually seen the brp hitch but they are all pretty much the same. Yes you will need to remove the hitch to get the rear tire off. Just make sure you don’t mess with the axle adjusters in the ends of the swing arm and you won’t change the alignment or belt tension.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Well shoot, I was hoping you'd had some specific experience with this one. Through bolt (axle) is out but I can't get the hitch loose. Not sure now what I need to do. Can't seem to budge it. Thanks for the help.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT got it with a little more force. Now problems getting the rotor separated from the speed sensor ring. Little Allen head screws but very tight. Soaking now. Will see what happens later. Also had a brake pad retaining spring fall out that I never saw so I don't know how to get it back in. Wish I could post a picture but not sure how to do that here. Opposite end from where the screw comes out I think because the retaining spring on that end is still there.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT I put OEM Kendas on the front, I was advised to stay OEM as the properties of the tire is matched to the vehicle. I call BS on that but I havent researched the front tires enough to safely go to another brand.
Very good detailed video. I've done well over 100 rear wheel removals and have down to a procedure where you leave the caliper all installed to the bracket and wiggle it off the rotor as you jack up the rear and after the axle is removed and belt slid off rear sprocket. I do not relieve any adjuster tension and after reassembly the tension and adjustment of the belt will be identical to pre-disassembly. It's a bit of a 3 handed job the first few times but I can have the wheel off, out, back in and torqued in about 11 minutes... Next one I do I'll have my buddy video my procedure. I do suggest everyone does your way first for sure, so they understand to shortcuts I take. Nonetheless a big thanks for taking the time to share your procedure! 😎
I followed your instructions and replaced the rear tire - saved $150-- worked perfectly --now i just need to check the belt allignment and maybe adjust. many thanks
wayne
Thank you for making these video's. They help tremendously. I do everything myself instead of paying a lot of money to let someone else do it. This really helps.
You’re welcome and thanks for the compliment. You are cut from the same cloth as I am.
Great video thank you so much. Headed to watch the brake video next. My rear tire came apart at 16700ish a few weeks ago. Then found out that they (stock tire) only lasts around 10k. Yeah. So LaMonster to the rescue. Since I'm replacing the tire I will be putting on the wheel balancers and replacing the brake pads since I'll have it all torn apart anyhow. Really appreciate this video and like I said I'm headed over to watch the others. Thank you for sharing.
Great tutorial. Planning to do a belt adjustment on my F3-S your video has helped. Keep them coming.
Wow 😳 a lot of work and effort put into one damn tire. I’ll just stick to the dealer installing my tires from here on out. I will just focus on changing my brakes and oil change etc on my vehicles. To scared my tires might brake loose and fly down the road. Great video! Cheers 🍺
Yeah, it is a little labor intensive. I’ve had to do it again since this video. I am getting a little faster.
Thanks for watching! 👍
It’s expensive at the dealer… I was really apprehensive but after a few hours … I did my other RT too! With 2 of these RT…. I can’t be running around town dropping 300$ for oil changes and 500$ for rear tire changes…
Another Great Tutorial ... I did my Belt Alignment recently! It took me about half a dozen goes to get it just right ... It's now around 1.5 to 2mm out from the rear sprocket flange. When I bought it ... It was riding hard up against the flange! I told the dealer & he said ... Not to worry about it! Just Typical hey ... Ryde safe brother 👍😁🤘🙏🇦🇺 Beanie
BeanieBoyMoto / Like I say, nobody cares about my vehicles/bikes more than me. I’ll do my own work.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT I agree 100%!! 👍🤘🙏
Aye Beanie! You are everywhere man, I can't wait until I see you in my comment section. Lol I hope you're not at work. Ride safe brother!
I saw a tip on tightening the wheels. If you let the tire down on the ground some, the force will cause the axel to push forwards. The adjusters will then be tight.
Pretty much all the same techniques I showed years ago. Good job!
Thanks Bob! Have a great weekend!
Nice video. Always nice to see how other folks do stuff. I don't see any reason to disconnect the ride height sensor rod. The only reason to do it is if you disconnect the shock. Since you didn't do that. No need to do the other. I had a Kumho tire on my STL. Hated it. Interesting that you where happy with yours.
Thanks, you are correct on the ride sensor, it didn’t need unhooked. I was just being extra cautious. I had no issues with the kuhmo until it was about wore out. It got a little “slippery”. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed your tips on how to remove the rear tire and install a new one. I'm interested in the highway pegs you have installed on your RT. What is the make and model of the pegs?
Howard Hexum, they are NBV Highway Brackets from Lamonster with Kuryakyn Dually ISO Pegs. Here is a link to my video on installing them: th-cam.com/video/mzbm4SD1GOQ/w-d-xo.html And a link to Lamonster’s store: www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-rt-nbv-highway-brackets-pegs-lamonster/ I really like these.
Another great video. I am going to be changing out my rear tire after this riding season and I have a question as to removing the HUB. I am confused as to, " if I have to remove it or not", before taking it the dealer to have the new tire put on. And also, do only MC shops change these tires out, or can I utilize a regular tire shop? I was thinking about your Q5's while on my ride yesterday, and thinking this is going to be my front replacements after this season as well. Your videos are such a great help for us newby Spyder owners. TY.
So very informative! If you had to change the tire on the other wheel would you have to split the rim? Or just remove the drive hub?
Bill Pettit, it is not really a split rim. The left side of the hub, (the half that the sprocket slides into), is bolted to the wheel which has the right half of the hub built into it. I will probably go ahead and mount the other new tire onto the original wheel to be ready to install when the Kenda is wore out.
I wound up having to replace the rear bearings on my 3rd tire an RT43 I replaced a Michelin after 24k miles on a 2012 RT. I now have a 14RTSE6 LTD around 24k had a kumho almost 12k on it put an arachnid dealer gave me a good price on. Hoping my bearings last a little longer. Did not know about the change in the wheels.
Your videos are the best…cool
This is the first video I have seen where the lower rear shock bolt was not removed. Apparently, the wheel can slide out from under the fender of nd RT or F3L without disconnecting the shock. Correct?
Correct, I've done three rear tires and have not un-bolted the rear shock yet. No need to unhook the ride position sensor as well, as long as you don't take the bolt out of the shock.
always good to see people wrenching on their own stuff. I am curious the brand of tires you went with....couldn't quite make out the name. Thanks again for the vids
geep, The fronts are Vredestein Quatrac 5, 175/55 R15, They make a 165 also. I love those things! It rides and handles much better than the stock Kendas.
I think I have the twin to Own It’s R/T and also Have the Verdestine tires and and ran them all last summer, like the man says you won’t believe the difference in the performance! So nice......
Great job, as always.
Do you have a list of different bolt Torque spec without watching the entire video. I have watched all your videos and I am sorry, I should have written the torque spec's down when I was watching.
Thanks,
Gary
The torque for the 5 hub to wheel bolts are supposed to be 53ft Lbs, axle nut is 166ft Lbs
Thanks for posting your video's, I also have a 2014 RTS and have been doing my own maintaince since finding your TH-cam channel. I start every maintaince job with watching how you did it first. Thank you.
We are going to take a similar trip this summer out west from Tennessee to Sturgis and on to Seattle. Are there any places that you recommend to see and any places you would by pass?
Wife's 2012 RT LTD comes with the 14" front tires. Local auto tire shop where I bought the tires says they can't balance them because they don't have the proper equipment for that rim. Do you bother having your tires balanced?
Second question. When looking at the rear axle, it looks like part of it is cut out on the threads past the nut where you can kinda flare them out to keep the nut from backing off. Is that how it's designed?
I would definitely get them balanced. You might try different tire shops. Lamonster sells a liquid balancer that might be an option as well.
The rear axle nut doesn’t need anything besides the proper torque. I’m not sure on the pre-14’s but mine is 166ft/lbs.
I also am not a fan of Kenda tires even though I have got over 12000 out of my original rear tire. I would like to put a different brand on my machine but dealers seem to be unwilling to mount them. Can a regular tire shop mount and balance them?
Scott Harrington, wow, I’ve got not quite 6,000 on this one and it is almost bald already. I ride pretty hard and am sure that has a lot to do with my tire life. When I took my wheel to a Spyder dealer to mount the Kuhmo, they started in on the “car tire lecture”. I interrupted him and told him I didn’t come for a lecture and if they didn’t want to do it, I would find someone else that would. They mounted it. I know a regular tire shop can mount and balance the front tires, I am not sure if their machine will mount the rear but I know they can’t balance the rear because the axle diameter is too small for the machine. I am planning on mounting this Vredestein myself and using beads for balancing it. I’ll do a video.
Is that the new Kenda K-20 Kanine tire they just came out with a few months ago or the old one ? The new Kenda tire exerts a better rubber and tire quality and design for better traction and up to 3 times the life span!!! At a cheaper price for the tires too. I found all three for around $227. Might try them when my factory kendas are wore out on my 2018 RT
It is the old one. It came with the wheel I bought. I’ve put 5,000 miles on it in the last month and in probably 2,000 more it will need replacing. Grrrr
I already have a Vredestein waiting to replace thIs one. I’ll see what the reports are on these new Kenda’s before diving into them. I have a serious dislike for the Kenda brand right now.
I’ve got 9200 on my factory Kenda rear tire. I probably will get another 5000 with the front tires. I’ll deal with replacing the rear pretty soon.
It is a fact that petroleum based grease shouldn’t be used on rubber or silicone. I thought that was nonsense for the longest time but it’s actually true.
I hope I did not miss it, but what PSI are you running in the Front and what PSI in the rear? Thanks and great "how too"..
I run 20psi front and rear. I now have Vredestein on the rear also and love them.
What size Vredestein rear did you order, I did not find it in the stock size...M.Wog
paul casey, 205/65 R15 m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
Do you have to remove the parking break cable AND the sensor to remove the rear tire??
No, as long as you don’t have the parking brake set, the caliper will slip off the rotor and right back on.
The sensor doesn’t need disconnected as long as you don’t disconnect the rear shock.
how much deferance between your 2014 and a 2012 RT SE5 limited I am about to do my rear shock bike is bouncing and the shock is totally wet
U do a great job. I thank you.
Just got done taking off the rear wheel using a combination of your video and Finless Bob's. Kudos to both of you guys! Biggest difference I see is the removal of the ride height sensor. On your video it seems that you don't have the spinning capture nut problem that Bob and I encountered. I had to get a small vice-grip to hold onto the nut. How did you avoid this? Also I see that you didn't need to use anything to hold the capture nut when you put it back on.
Great video. Thanks.
I'm wondering what Vredestein tire you bought for the rear. Model and size?
Robert Fitta
I installed the new Vredestein on the rear a few weeks ago and l love it. It is a 205/65r15, so it is a little narrower and taller but it rides great and my speedo is less than 1 mile an hour off now as opposed to almost 3 before. I ordered mine from tire rack. Don’t fill in the part where they ask you what vehicle it is for, they might not sell it to you. Just skip that part of the ordering process. Here is a link:
m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Do you mount your own and balance or take it somewhere?
@@davidvuchetich3045 I took it to my local tire shop to get it mounted. They couldn’t get it on their balancer so we just used glass balancing beads. I am going to pick up a manual tire changer from Harbor Freight and do my own next time. I’ll do a video on it.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT do you take ur fronts there as well?
@@davidvuchetich3045 Yes, they were able to mount and balance the fronts.
What size Vredestein Q5 are you putting on the back once your other tire shot on the rear
Can you fix my can am spyder
Hi great video! Thanks for sharing..is there a garage in U.K. where I can get this done by someone?
One in Durham if you live up this way of cause
What kind of pad is that you use on the floor, and who makes it?
Curious...about to do all my tires on my 14 RT how are your Vredestein Quatrac holding up?
They are great! They wear evenly, improve the ride and handling, and will last much longer than the OEM Kenda tires. These tires are one of the best things I’ve done to this.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT have you tried General AltiMAX RT43 Radial Tire - 215/60R15 94T for the rear option?
I have not, but a lot of people use those.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT is ur Vredestein 205 60 15
@@davidvuchetich3045 I have 205/65 r15 94H Quatrac 5
Thank you God! For this video
I don't trust anyone wrenching on my vehicles, if it is something I can do. Did you remove the height sensor when you readjusted the belt tracking? Did you remove it when you did the rear tire recently?. Do you really need to if you don't remove the shock bolt?
I did remove it the for that tire change, but you are correct, it doesn’t need to be removed unless you take the shock loose. I changed the rear tire again and did not take the ride position sensor off.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT what did you do with the emergency brake cable? Do I have to loosen it?
@@RogDawg No, just don't engage the park brake and the caliper will slip off the rotor and right back on.
what is the exact size of you Vredestein rear tire?
Using your videos to help me learn to do my own work so I'm going to ask you for more help I need to pull the wheel to replace the rotor and rear brakes. Do I need to pull the hitch? If so, what can you tell me about that? It is the BRP hitch.
I haven’t actually seen the brp hitch but they are all pretty much the same. Yes you will need to remove the hitch to get the rear tire off. Just make sure you don’t mess with the axle adjusters in the ends of the swing arm and you won’t change the alignment or belt tension.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Well shoot, I was hoping you'd had some specific experience with this one. Through bolt (axle) is out but I can't get the hitch loose. Not sure now what I need to do. Can't seem to budge it. Thanks for the help.
My guess is that it is just stuck on your swing arm. Use a mallet or a 2x4 and hammer to drive it off.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Thanks. Will see what I can do.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT got it with a little more force. Now problems getting the rotor separated from the speed sensor ring. Little Allen head screws but very tight. Soaking now. Will see what happens later. Also had a brake pad retaining spring fall out that I never saw so I don't know how to get it back in. Wish I could post a picture but not sure how to do that here. Opposite end from where the screw comes out I think because the retaining spring on that end is still there.
Did u said 160 pounds toque specs? Or 116?
It is supposed to be 166ft/lbs.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT great, thanks a lot.
What air pressure you used on the Kumho tire?
I ran 20psi in the Kumho and that is what I am running front and rear in the Vredesteins that are on it now.
How many miles did you get out or the rear Kumho ast?
Michael Coyle, I got 15,000 miles on it. Ive read that some get more. I have no complaints with the Kumho.
The wife's Spyder only got 9,000 miles on the Kenda. I purchased the Toyo Proxies 4, for the bike so we'll see if her usage mileage improves.
I’ve heard those are supposed to be good tires.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT well we shall see, up here in the great white north we only get 6 months of riding so it should last her more than a few years.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT I put OEM Kendas on the front, I was advised to stay OEM as the properties of the tire is matched to the vehicle. I call BS on that but I havent researched the front tires enough to safely go to another brand.
belt tension 2014 rt 160 up are down on the floor
160 on the ground is what I have read. 130 in the air, if I remember correctly.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT thank you nice video
hi what is the torgue on the back wheel inner hob 2014 can am rts
The bolts that hold the hub to the wheel are 53ft lbs. if I remember correctly.
The main axle nut torque is 166 ft pounds.
Next time run it in gear on the air to adjust the belt gap while spinning
I will try that next time. 👍
I have thought about building a twin roller to set the rear wheel on as well so the swing arm isn’t fully extended.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT great idea