Another terrific video. I really like your voice and manner of speaking. It is sort of monotone, but very relaxing. I like that you aren't verbose. You share information in a clear concise format which I for one really appreciate.
Awesome explanation of the different chains and sharpening angles you've tried. Mad props for such a labor intensive comparison of all the chains you reviewed! Have enjoyed all your videos so far and again thanks for the commitment!
Thanks for your informative videos. I appreciate your effort and thoroughness. You're saving me a lot of trials and tests as I'm deciding on to take up chainsaw milling myself. Kudos.
I like an SC 10deg, rakers cut down to a little more aggressive than normal, cuts to the smoothness i want for rough lumber. Usually only a single pass through the planner for a finished look. Cutting mostly DF, Pondo, and Blk Oak - Husky 595, 460 455, 18-42 bars, Granberg mills w winches - Northern Ca Sierras Great video !
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well th-cam.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
Brand new chain, and chain that is at the end of life will always cut better because that’s where the tempered steel is. They tear the links at the end of the shaping process so only the very surfaces are the most hardened. I personally sharpened probably 3000 chainsaws in my childhood and my father probably sharpen 50k during my childhood alone. And that is one universal truth. New chains always cut better, and chains at the very end of their life cut as well as new chains. Do not ever throw out subpar chains; instead use them when you don’t want to use your nicer chains when you’re getting into some sand /dirt.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share your analysis. Are you grinding only? The new chain out of the box, it cut rough. Please update if the performance is better after you grind it, or file. 12 yrs of experience falling timber, not ripping: factory sharp will cut, but not like a filed chain. Also, in 3/8" there was a semi-skip chain available that I preferred. Stihl chain was harder metal than Oregon brand and didn't stretch as much. Holding an edge longer? Can't say for ripping. You are appreciated, please refrain from talking down on yourself! I know your being wise with disclaimers, that fair enough, but your personal experience and opinion is validated as you have made it this far. Carry on!
Great video!! Thank you for taking the time to do this. My Alaska mill make it here this week and I have a pair of milling chains on the way from forester supply.
Well sit back and get ready. Warm weather is on the way and as soon as I can get the big orange tent set up, I can resume editing here on the property. They’ll be coming a lot faster before you know it!
Great explanation of the various chains for ripping. Thank you. I am just beginning to learn how to make my own boards. For the last few years, I have going to a mill and having them cut boards. Now I am doing less tree-cutting and want to mill them myself.
Really interesting! I have thought about getting one of those mills just for furniture projects from logs on my property. I do have a planer, so I would be more interested in longevity of the chain, not the smoothness of the cut. This was a great comparison! Camera showed it well
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. If you’ve got the planer, then you can also just use whatever chains you have on hand. They all work (despite many folks that will try to convince you otherwise!)
I found this to be interesting thanks for the time it took you to do this cause I have looked and can't find anything on youtube about this at all!!! HIGH FIVE TO YOU!!!
Great comparison on the different chains. I would like the smoothest finish possible just to make the board more useable quickly. Reducing steps after this.
Thanks for this, just started on a 42" Doug Fir with an oregon 11degree ripping skip chain, 59" bar on a MS880 ..its slow going ..got to clear under the side cover as fine dust builds up over the clutch cover. Will see how we go.
Man dude that was fabulous. I bought a Granberg milling chain. I guess ill use that until i can't resharpen it anymore, then ill just switch to regular semi chisel chains at 30°, which i have a lot of those already. They're cheaper, easier to sharpen, provide a better finish, and seem to last about as long based on your tests. Thanks a bunch man!
Another great video. I have a small electric chainsaw that I got at Home Depot. It has the chain that it came with so I truly have no idea what type of chain it is. That being said, I don’t care one way or other about chains but I really liked this video. I was really loved that you can visible see the difference. Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison and looking forward to the skydeck!
Thanks Thom! Funny, you don’t care about chains and I don’t care what the cut looks like but seems that we both found the outcome of the experiment interesting. I sort of dreaded making the video but I’m glad I did now that it’s done.
This is absolutely perfect, this channel I mean. Must move out to my small property very soon and will have little money so was hoping to mill a little lumber. Like the chainsaw way and you have a lot of practical info, all questions I have wondered about, pretty cool.
Very interesting & informative. I've always used full chisel but rarely rip timber. I'd have expected full chisel 30° to be the coarsest cut but wouldn't have expected 0° to be as significantly smoother. Now i need to see if anyone's experimented in this manner on hardwoods, as I'll most likely be milling European ash & beech, with some cherry & holly. Looking at a mill like yours to use with one of my Husqvarna 266 (was my spare saw back in the 80's & probably has less than 10 hours from new, whereas my other 266 is definitely on its last legs).
Granberg now recommends a 10 degree bevel on all teeth on their ripping chains. just got done using a granberg ripping chain for the first time and the cuts are surprisingly smooth. I normally run a chisel chain.
Have you tried a skipped tooth chain vice a standard chain? You might find that, with soft wood, skipped tooth chains run better. Out west and Alaska, most loggers cut with a skipped tooth whereas here in Michigan, due to hardwood, we tend to not do it. I mill with a skipped tooth 10 degree on my 661 and can usually get a 9ft rip on a 40in oak log log without needing to change or sharpen. Great video! I recommend, if you purchase bulk chain in your favorite tooth, you can make your own chain much cheaper!
Cool! I have not tried skip-tooth. I couldn’t find it anywhere to fit my saw. I feel like after a year of doing this full time I am finally getting to the point where I am ready to buy a roll rather than a loop at a time. Tho if I’d have done it in the past, I’d have been site to get the wrong thing and be stuck with a lot of it.
@@survivingringworm2202 I usually go to the Stihl dealer local and they build my skip tooth for me from roll stock. For cross cuts I'm still running standard full comp chains. I get a 10 degree skip and file 8 degrees then 10. It walks the tooth back without losing a ton of materials.
10:38 Feel free to file that Granberg chain at 10* all the way around, that’s where mine came and I’ve continued at that. May be a bit easier to file instead of switching back and fourth. The quality of cut, from the looks of it, is Maybe a touch better, if not the same. We’ve got a little bit different wood here in SE MN, though. Lots of Oak, Maple(hard and soft), and Ash.
How you liking the Grandberg chain for hardwoods? Just ordered one today and will be ripping up some ash in the coming weeks. Been running a full chisel skip tooth so I’ll be interested to see what difference the grandberg makes
@@warrenwerks Short answer: I like the Granberg chain. It lasts a good while w/o needing a diamond to sharpen and gives quite a smooth cut(so long as you don’t bog your saw. I have yet to stop chain chatter through a bogging saw.. aside from cranking that tensioner screw down which, as we know, is probably not the greatest idea); however, it’s slower than other chains(theorhetically to be expected) and I do wish they made a skip-tooth chain. I think my 461 would appreciate a skip-tooth chain, especially on my 42” bar. Even the 36” bar would seemingly be noticeably nicer and faster with a skip-tooth. Hope this helps :) -Abe
Hello again. This is great!! I've been searching for info on chains and this was very helpful. Much more than poring over numbers and data. TY. Just came into over 40 logs (Pine, Oak & Poplar) have them cleaned and debranched and have ordered a Granberg 30" chainsaw mill to slab them. Mostly 10 '-15' long and 22" - 27" diameter. Shopping chain saws while waiting for the mill and leaning toward a Husky --- will need at least 70cc so it'll be the 585 or 592XP. There's a lead time for mill delivery so de-barking will commence soon. Will keep u apprised of my progress. Stay safe, God Bless....
Been playing with types and angles without results I like(slow cutting. rough cut) This video gives me a bench mark? to try different angles. Great video.
Huh. Cool. Thanks for the info! I’m all about buying cheap stuff whenever possible but I was surprised at how much worse it did than the rest right out of the box!
only ran 404 chain after snapping a smaller chain at 3/4 throttle....it was scary as heck! Modded chains to have 10 deg or ran granberg ripping chain, had triangle file originally... I always granberg jigged my chains so they didnt dive or climb in rips and rounded back chain is more forgiving but you can run firewood chain right outa the box and work fine just need to keep rpm and feed rate simular and will cut nice slabs IMOP....nice work mate like yer vids
Great Video!, I just started doing some research on milling lumber. I have watched many different channels and for me I like your channel best. TYhis video was very educational for me. I appreciate your work.
Thanks for putting in the time and effort here. I'm wondering how a 0deg. semi-chisel would go. Looking at how close the 30deg sc was to the 0deg full chisel, I really wonder. Of course I'm sitting on 100 feet or more of Archer sc milling chain ;)
Can you run the test one more time and make each cut 3’ with the speed test (you may need to get all new chains and a long log) but it’s scientifically worth it........totally worth it! Then if you could place a sheet of rice paper along the board and lightly rub a pencil over it..... I don’t think we will be able to rest or feel at all satisfied till we conduct this one final series of tests.......just saying... But wow. What a pain in the ass test. Informative for sure......but always makes me wonder if the average viewer thinks about all of the effort.......nice job.. as always This one was out of the park on taking it for the team!
Listen, I don’t need everyone to say “poor Ryan. He sure suffered for that one.” But I do appreciate one person commenting on what a pain in the ass it must have been to do. It’s funny, I didn’t even really care about the outcome- I was curious at most- but I felt it might have been my one chance in this life to add something to the Internet that wasn’t already there. Stay tuned for a future video. Rice paper is on order.
The person that wins is the one that has the most fun!! Perfect!! I have milled alot of hardwoods here in michigan as well and a semi chisel at 10 degrees is great. I have also played with a full skip sequence chain and was impressed by the speed of the cuts that i got vs the full house chain. (Normal driver cutter sequence). If you got some larger lumber to mill let me know i head up to the Munising area a few times a year and would love to mill some cedar as we don’t have any around here at all.
Nice! You must use a bigger saw? I wanted to try a skip-tooth but they don’t make them for such a little saw/bar. I bet they fly on something with a lot of power. But they must get dull a fair bit faster?
@@survivingringworm2202 i get a tank of fuel and then some power sharpening i just hand file it right in the mill actually works real nice because the mill holds the bar in place. I got a holtsforna/farmertec 660 knock of saw. Closing out it together replaced some parts even with his time i payed him i think a little over 300 for it i think.
Wow. Great deal. If this thing ever wears out, I’ll definitely have to go bigger but the dealer assures me, it’ll last for a lot of years. We’ll see about that.
Ironic! I was just gonna link you up too "Archer Plus". These chains are tough! Stay sharpe longer and less stretch requiring less time out re tightning. However due to the Metal being so hard,, are also tough to sharpen requiring a GOOD FILE.
best rip chain ive had for speed is a home maid grandburg style with half skip. full chiz. and yes requires more sharpening but cuting eastern white pine get 4 20in wide 8ft long cuts before needs a sharpening. nice video.
Here's an idea to get bigger logs onto your sawbuck. Lash three 4" diameter poles/logs together to make a tall tripod, hang your snatch block from it, and use the winch to lift the log up, or at least one end of it, then put the sawbuck under it.
Pretty interesting, I guess the tension on the chain would vary as well , but all in all that was a pretty telling demonstration, nice job man! Thanks for the effort, I'm sure it wasn't a blast changing them out every couple of feet lol
Great video and thanks for taking the time. Granberg has my mill in the mail as I type. One thing I am wondering about is the raker hight. Not so much for chain sharpness life, but smoothness. Thanks-K
I would stay right around 25-30 thousandths your standard Oregon depth gauge tool is set to do 25. I would just use that and then make sure to reshape the depth guide a little to make it not perfectly flat just round the front edge a little.
Totally agree with John. Though I must admit that I regularly forget to round of the leading edge of the rakers after I knock them down (with the bench grinder/sharpener.) And that probably doesn’t help anything when it comes to making nice boards or the efficiency of the cut. I just point that out because I noticed in the video that NONE of the chains I used had rounded rakers. Oops!
Wow. That 30 degree semi-chisel is a very close second. And it is still a chain you can use for crosscut work. Maybe if I put 30 degree semi-chisel on my Husky 385XP I can do milling or firewood and not worry about special chains.
Milled alot of wood, if you can mill downhill...makes a big difference, not always possible slabbing big yellow cedars out in the bush but if you have them at home definitely makes HUGE difference. I have a copy of chainsaw lumbermaking if you cant find on like everyone else...its out of print but AWESOME
Thanks! Got my mill last month and am using a full chisel and a 36" bar. Noe I know the difference in the smoothness. I noticed your not using the nose clamp on the barfor your mill.guessing that the short bar wouldn't need it as mutch. Besides the 36" I also have a 20" for smaller diameter trees.
I have a very large mill on a stihl ms 661c, I like the granberg also. My experience is quite similar to yours on my chains. I am thinking of getting a carbide zero degree, but the cost is so tremendously high! Your thoughts?
I see a year has gone by Thanks for the edification. I have been considering these options. I mill mainly ash and maple, with a ms362 cm. I do not trust the cm. My cleanest results have been with out of the box green chain Being parsimonious I have taken full chisel down to 10° a degree at a time. I have not seen enough difference to make the effort. I am now more concerned about taking it easy on the saw. Any take on that? I have basically stopped milling, over wear and tear on the saw. My new plan is to mill long needle pine for utility lumber. I hope you are enjoying your sky deck. Chris
The answer to any question ever asked is "it depends..." 😄 I chuckle when people ask "what is the best (whatever)?" I answer it depends on what you want to achieve. The "best" for one person is not gonna be the best for someone else. It's like that movie City Slickers where the secret to happiness is that ONE thing, but that ONE thing is different for everyone. Well...I kinda went off the deep end with that ...lol
“You mean your finger?” Absolutely agree. “The best” seldom means the best for YOU. It’s often synonymous with “most expensive.” I prefer to consider “the best for the price and for what I’m doing.”
Any idea why my oregon milling chain tilts down in the bar when milling?it causes the cut to dive and in turn wedges the bar. Not to mention wearing the paint off the bar and putting a bur on it.
Love your videos, I also have 80 ac in the up near escanaba , wondering if you are going to bring your little tractor to your camp site to help do the heavy lifting. Good luck for Mr mike.
Putting in the time so we don't have to, much appreciated Mr. Worm. Thank you again for a great video!
Another terrific video. I really like your voice and manner of speaking. It is sort of monotone, but very relaxing. I like that you aren't verbose. You share information in a clear concise format which I for one really appreciate.
AWESOME JOB! You have saved all of us time and money to get a better looking piece of chainsaw milled lumber.
wow, thank you for having the time and patience to put this together, chain change every foot ugh thanks again
Wasnt fun but I’m glad I did it!
This is a brilliant video, very knowledgeable. Learnt a lot, clear information pleasure to watch and learn.
Many thanks
Simon
I am looking to get into chainsaw milling logs on my property and this has been most helpful. Thx for your time doing the test.
Thank your for the video, which to me contained a fund of important information which was at once entertaining and instructive.
Awesome explanation of the different chains and sharpening angles you've tried. Mad props for such a labor intensive comparison of all the chains you reviewed! Have enjoyed all your videos so far and again thanks for the commitment!
Thanks for your informative videos. I appreciate your effort and thoroughness. You're saving me a lot of trials and tests as I'm deciding on to take up chainsaw milling myself. Kudos.
I like your winch and snatch block rigging. Enjoy your show.
I like an SC 10deg, rakers cut down to a little more aggressive than normal, cuts to the smoothness i want for rough lumber. Usually only a single pass through the planner for a finished look. Cutting mostly DF, Pondo, and Blk Oak - Husky 595, 460 455, 18-42 bars, Granberg mills w winches - Northern Ca Sierras Great video !
nah. each video is a great bibliography for all of these youtubers. I love sending them here.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well th-cam.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
Brand new chain, and chain that is at the end of life will always cut better because that’s where the tempered steel is. They tear the links at the end of the shaping process so only the very surfaces are the most hardened. I personally sharpened probably 3000 chainsaws in my childhood and my father probably sharpen 50k during my childhood alone. And that is one universal truth. New chains always cut better, and chains at the very end of their life cut as well as new chains. Do not ever throw out subpar chains; instead use them when you don’t want to use your nicer chains when you’re getting into some sand /dirt.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share your analysis. Are you grinding only? The new chain out of the box, it cut rough. Please update if the performance is better after you grind it, or file. 12 yrs of experience falling timber, not ripping: factory sharp will cut, but not like a filed chain. Also, in 3/8" there was a semi-skip chain available that I preferred. Stihl chain was harder metal than Oregon brand and didn't stretch as much. Holding an edge longer? Can't say for ripping. You are appreciated, please refrain from talking down on yourself! I know your being wise with disclaimers, that fair enough, but your personal experience and opinion is validated as you have made it this far. Carry on!
I’m all in come March of 2022. So I appreciate all your videos and information.
This video was a lifesaver and a huge time saver for the rest of us. Fantastic head to head
Great video!! Thank you for taking the time to do this. My Alaska mill make it here this week and I have a pair of milling chains on the way from forester supply.
Super educational.Thanks for putting in in the time.
Love your videos! My only criticism if any is how much time we have to wait for the next one!
I agree!!
Well sit back and get ready. Warm weather is on the way and as soon as I can get the big orange tent set up, I can resume editing here on the property. They’ll be coming a lot faster before you know it!
@@survivingringworm2202 awesome!!!!
@@survivingringworm2202 Right On! I am getting cool ideas for my place out in the middle of nowhere from watching your videos!
Appreciated this test, I will be doing the same test under my filing conditions. Thank you Sir!
Great explanation of the various chains for ripping. Thank you. I am just beginning to learn how to make my own boards. For the last few years, I have going to a mill and having them cut boards. Now I am doing less tree-cutting and want to mill them myself.
Thanks I’m learning about chainsaw milling ain’t having fun yet but I hope to your video was very helpful.
Really interesting! I have thought about getting one of those mills just for furniture projects from logs on my property. I do have a planer, so I would be more interested in longevity of the chain, not the smoothness of the cut. This was a great comparison! Camera showed it well
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
If you’ve got the planer, then you can also just use whatever chains you have on hand. They all work (despite many folks that will try to convince you otherwise!)
I was quick to point out to hubby the planer when we got to Harbor Freight yesterday for the first time in over a year!! Enjoy yours!! Someday...
@@Downeastwaves Amazon has one. Has good reviews and comes with a stand. I have not unboxed it yet but imma gonna!😅
How big is your planer mate? Like just a corded power tool type?
@@joesarrieto8434 yes 15amp plug in 13 inch
I found this to be interesting thanks for the time it took you to do this cause I have looked and can't find anything on youtube about this at all!!! HIGH FIVE TO YOU!!!
Finally! I actually added something to the internet!
@@survivingringworm2202 It was great but I love that swing bed am going to try to make one in the basement for myself!!
Fantastic! I mean, all you need is a bed with a frame, some rope and some stout hooks right?
Great comparison on the different chains. I would like the smoothest finish possible just to make the board more useable quickly. Reducing steps after this.
Thank you for the information.
it was a great experiment we all get a lot out of your effort there, thank you
J. Duncan, you posted this as a reply...just FYI.
Simply put. A very humble and helpful video
Subscribed , your reviews and advises are golden . Thank you so much for taking your time and posting ..... ....
Full chisel -0- degree. Have to see. I have a few Archer chains in need of re sharpening. I'll give one a try on my 271 ranch hand! Thanks.
Thanks for this, just started on a 42" Doug Fir with an oregon 11degree ripping skip chain, 59" bar on a MS880 ..its slow going ..got to clear under the side cover as fine dust builds up over the clutch cover. Will see how we go.
Man dude that was fabulous. I bought a Granberg milling chain. I guess ill use that until i can't resharpen it anymore, then ill just switch to regular semi chisel chains at 30°, which i have a lot of those already. They're cheaper, easier to sharpen, provide a better finish, and seem to last about as long based on your tests. Thanks a bunch man!
Great information for a chainsaw newbie like myself. And nice new trailer you’ve got there.
She’s a beaut, ain’t she‽
Seriously. Your handle alone is good enough for me. Killer. All the best. Good stuff.
Another great video. I have a small electric chainsaw that I got at Home Depot. It has the chain that it came with so I truly have no idea what type of chain it is. That being said, I don’t care one way or other about chains but I really liked this video. I was really loved that you can visible see the difference. Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison and looking forward to the skydeck!
Thanks Thom!
Funny, you don’t care about chains and I don’t care what the cut looks like but seems that we both found the outcome of the experiment interesting. I sort of dreaded making the video but I’m glad I did now that it’s done.
Awesome video for future reference for anyone looking for Milling tips.
Good video brotha, appreciate your making this .
Very very interesting. Wonder which chain cuts more board ft before sharpening.
Great video, I learned a lot.
Nice trailer!!
Thank you!
Bout time, right?
This is absolutely perfect, this channel I mean. Must move out to my small property very soon and will have little money so was hoping to mill a little lumber. Like the chainsaw way and you have a lot of practical info, all questions I have wondered about, pretty cool.
Your editing is getting good, it flows smoothly. Great comparison video. I might be getting into milling soon myself.
Thanks!
If only I could figure out how to put them together 3x faster, I’d be in business.
You won’t regret getting a mill!
Excellent, thank you.
Very interesting & informative.
I've always used full chisel but rarely rip timber.
I'd have expected full chisel 30° to be the coarsest cut but wouldn't have expected 0° to be as significantly smoother.
Now i need to see if anyone's experimented in this manner on hardwoods, as I'll most likely be milling European ash & beech, with some cherry & holly.
Looking at a mill like yours to use with one of my Husqvarna 266 (was my spare saw back in the 80's & probably has less than 10 hours from new, whereas my other 266 is definitely on its last legs).
The long bar also introduces more bar sag and poorer cuts than the proper length bar for the specific log. Great content today Amigo.
Good point.
Since I’ve never used a big saw/long bar, I guess I’ve never come across that problem but makes total sense.
I love my full house Oregon ripping chain on a 36 inch bar.
Good show man.
Granberg now recommends a 10 degree bevel on all teeth on their ripping chains. just got done using a granberg ripping chain for the first time and the cuts are surprisingly smooth. I normally run a chisel chain.
Have you tried a skipped tooth chain vice a standard chain? You might find that, with soft wood, skipped tooth chains run better. Out west and Alaska, most loggers cut with a skipped tooth whereas here in Michigan, due to hardwood, we tend to not do it. I mill with a skipped tooth 10 degree on my 661 and can usually get a 9ft rip on a 40in oak log log without needing to change or sharpen. Great video! I recommend, if you purchase bulk chain in your favorite tooth, you can make your own chain much cheaper!
Cool! I have not tried skip-tooth. I couldn’t find it anywhere to fit my saw.
I feel like after a year of doing this full time I am finally getting to the point where I am ready to buy a roll rather than a loop at a time. Tho if I’d have done it in the past, I’d have been site to get the wrong thing and be stuck with a lot of it.
@@survivingringworm2202 I usually go to the Stihl dealer local and they build my skip tooth for me from roll stock. For cross cuts I'm still running standard full comp chains. I get a 10 degree skip and file 8 degrees then 10. It walks the tooth back without losing a ton of materials.
Interesting! I’ll have to get my hands on one just for the comparison.
10:38 Feel free to file that Granberg chain at 10* all the way around, that’s where mine came and I’ve continued at that. May be a bit easier to file instead of switching back and fourth. The quality of cut, from the looks of it, is Maybe a touch better, if not the same. We’ve got a little bit different wood here in SE MN, though. Lots of Oak, Maple(hard and soft), and Ash.
How you liking the Grandberg chain for hardwoods? Just ordered one today and will be ripping up some ash in the coming weeks. Been running a full chisel skip tooth so I’ll be interested to see what difference the grandberg makes
@@warrenwerks Short answer: I like the Granberg chain. It lasts a good while w/o needing a diamond to sharpen and gives quite a smooth cut(so long as you don’t bog your saw. I have yet to stop chain chatter through a bogging saw.. aside from cranking that tensioner screw down which, as we know, is probably not the greatest idea); however, it’s slower than other chains(theorhetically to be expected) and I do wish they made a skip-tooth chain. I think my 461 would appreciate a skip-tooth chain, especially on my 42” bar. Even the 36” bar would seemingly be noticeably nicer and faster with a skip-tooth. Hope this helps :) -Abe
You confirmed my thinking . I was thinking a full chisel ground at 0 and 8 tooth sprocket on bur oak would be the best bit more rpm ...
A lot of work for great info, never tried 0 degree. Have plenty of old full chisel, got some sharpening to do, Thanks!
So very interesting! Thanks very much for such detail.
Good day brother 😁☕ thanks for the education.... I liked the way you loaded your logs on the trailer .... you just taught me how to save my back 😁🏆☕
Thanks! That was the first time I tried that. Did it because my back was in such bad shape I couldn’t lift a thing for a couple weeks.
It worked!
Hello again. This is great!! I've been searching for info on chains and this was very helpful. Much more than poring over numbers and data. TY. Just came into over 40 logs (Pine, Oak & Poplar) have them cleaned and debranched and have ordered a Granberg 30" chainsaw mill to slab them. Mostly 10 '-15' long and 22" - 27" diameter. Shopping chain saws while waiting for the mill and leaning toward a Husky --- will need at least 70cc so it'll be the 585 or 592XP. There's a lead time for mill delivery so de-barking will commence soon. Will keep u apprised of my progress. Stay safe, God Bless....
Thanks again
Professor Craymazing !!!
Comment of the day!
Ooooo... Now PROFESSOR too‽
Excellent! Thank you 😊 experience is priceless!!
Been playing with types and angles without results I like(slow cutting. rough cut) This video gives me a bench mark? to try different angles. Great video.
This was a very helpful video. Takes some of the guess work out of buying milling chain.
Archer works ok for cutting firewood after a couple filings they get soft wont cut streight I'm in the southern Appichians Mts cutting hardwood.
Huh. Cool. Thanks for the info!
I’m all about buying cheap stuff whenever possible but I was surprised at how much worse it did than the rest right out of the box!
only ran 404 chain after snapping a smaller chain at 3/4 throttle....it was scary as heck! Modded chains to have 10 deg or ran granberg ripping chain, had triangle file originally... I always granberg jigged my chains so they didnt dive or climb in rips and rounded back chain is more forgiving but you can run firewood chain right outa the box and work fine just need to keep rpm and feed rate simular and will cut nice slabs IMOP....nice work mate like yer vids
Excellent comparisons. Thanks.
Great Video!, I just started doing some research on milling lumber. I have watched many different channels and for me I like your channel best. TYhis video was very educational for me. I appreciate your work.
Thanks for putting in the time and effort here. I'm wondering how a 0deg. semi-chisel would go. Looking at how close the 30deg sc was to the 0deg full chisel, I really wonder. Of course I'm sitting on 100 feet or more of Archer sc milling chain ;)
Can you run the test one more time and make each cut 3’ with the speed test (you may need to get all new chains and a long log) but it’s scientifically worth it........totally worth it! Then if you could place a sheet of rice paper along the board and lightly rub a pencil over it..... I don’t think we will be able to rest or feel at all satisfied till we conduct this one final series of tests.......just saying...
But wow. What a pain in the ass test. Informative for sure......but always makes me wonder if the average viewer thinks about all of the effort.......nice job.. as always
This one was out of the park on taking it for the team!
Listen, I don’t need everyone to say “poor Ryan. He sure suffered for that one.”
But I do appreciate one person commenting on what a pain in the ass it must have been to do. It’s funny, I didn’t even really care about the outcome- I was curious at most- but I felt it might have been my one chance in this life to add something to the Internet that wasn’t already there.
Stay tuned for a future video. Rice paper is on order.
@@survivingringworm2202 - pretty much all your vlogs add more to the internet than any of the "self-righteous", "know-it-all" types...
@@survivingringworm2202 mission accomplished
The person that wins is the one that has the most fun!! Perfect!! I have milled alot of hardwoods here in michigan as well and a semi chisel at 10 degrees is great. I have also played with a full skip sequence chain and was impressed by the speed of the cuts that i got vs the full house chain. (Normal driver cutter sequence). If you got some larger lumber to mill let me know i head up to the Munising area a few times a year and would love to mill some cedar as we don’t have any around here at all.
Nice! You must use a bigger saw? I wanted to try a skip-tooth but they don’t make them for such a little saw/bar. I bet they fly on something with a lot of power.
But they must get dull a fair bit faster?
@@survivingringworm2202 i get a tank of fuel and then some power sharpening i just hand file it right in the mill actually works real nice because the mill holds the bar in place. I got a holtsforna/farmertec 660 knock of saw. Closing out it together replaced some parts even with his time i payed him i think a little over 300 for it i think.
Wow. Great deal. If this thing ever wears out, I’ll definitely have to go bigger but the dealer assures me, it’ll last for a lot of years.
We’ll see about that.
really interesting. very good test.
Thks this has been very helpful because
I'm about to invest into a Alaskan mill setup thks
Thanks for sharing this.
Ironic! I was just gonna link you up too "Archer Plus". These chains are tough! Stay sharpe longer and less stretch requiring less time out re tightning. However due to the Metal being so hard,, are also tough to sharpen requiring a GOOD FILE.
Awesome worm, thanks for sharing
Have you tried a square ground skip tooth chain IE: a ripping chain, fast cuter on pine.
best rip chain ive had for speed is a home maid grandburg style with half skip. full chiz. and yes requires more sharpening but cuting eastern white pine get 4 20in wide 8ft long cuts before needs a sharpening. nice video.
Excellent information!
Good intell. Thank you
Here's an idea to get bigger logs onto your sawbuck. Lash three 4" diameter poles/logs together to make a tall tripod, hang your snatch block from it, and use the winch to lift the log up, or at least one end of it, then put the sawbuck under it.
Thanks @throngcleaver for this bit of advise.
Nice tests and a brilliant video. 💯❤👍
Pretty interesting, I guess the tension on the chain would vary as well , but all in all that was a pretty telling demonstration, nice job man! Thanks for the effort, I'm sure it wasn't a blast changing them out every couple of feet lol
I'm sure all types of chain have around the same tension
@@ruthl1scrusader325 I said tension, when I meant "resistance" brain fart on my part lol sorry bout that
Hey there, great vids. Could you do one showing how to sharpen chains 30 15 and 0 degree? Also how to file down the depth guide. Thanks a lot!
Great video and thanks for taking the time. Granberg has my mill in the mail as I type. One thing I am wondering about is the raker hight. Not so much for chain sharpness life, but smoothness. Thanks-K
I would stay right around 25-30 thousandths your standard Oregon depth gauge tool is set to do 25. I would just use that and then make sure to reshape the depth guide a little to make it not perfectly flat just round the front edge a little.
Totally agree with John. Though I must admit that I regularly forget to round of the leading edge of the rakers after I knock them down (with the bench grinder/sharpener.)
And that probably doesn’t help anything when it comes to making nice boards or the efficiency of the cut.
I just point that out because I noticed in the video that NONE of the chains I used had rounded rakers.
Oops!
Wow. That 30 degree semi-chisel is a very close second. And it is still a chain you can use for crosscut work. Maybe if I put 30 degree semi-chisel on my Husky 385XP I can do milling or firewood and not worry about special chains.
Awesome video great bit of info for everyone!
Milled alot of wood, if you can mill downhill...makes a big difference, not always possible slabbing big yellow cedars out in the bush but if you have them at home definitely makes HUGE difference. I have a copy of chainsaw lumbermaking if you cant find on like everyone else...its out of print but AWESOME
nice video very informative !!
have u seen the plastic cones u put on front of log for towing?
Nice test. 👍
Love this!
I really like this video thanks
Good video, thankyou
I’d like to see you make the sawhorses that you mill on and the winch modification you did on the mill please
Thanks! Got my mill last month and am using a full chisel and a 36" bar. Noe I know the difference in the smoothness. I noticed your not using the nose clamp on the barfor your mill.guessing that the short bar wouldn't need it as mutch. Besides the 36" I also have a 20" for smaller diameter trees.
I have a very large mill on a stihl ms 661c, I like the granberg also. My experience is quite similar to yours on my chains. I am thinking of getting a carbide zero degree, but the cost is so tremendously high! Your thoughts?
I see a year has gone by
Thanks for the edification.
I have been considering these options.
I mill mainly ash and maple, with a ms362 cm.
I do not trust the cm.
My cleanest results have been with out of the box green chain
Being parsimonious I have taken full chisel down to 10° a degree at a time.
I have not seen enough difference to make the effort.
I am now more concerned about taking it easy on the saw.
Any take on that?
I have basically stopped milling, over wear and tear on the saw.
My new plan is to mill long needle pine for utility lumber.
I hope you are enjoying your sky deck. Chris
The answer to any question ever asked is "it depends..." 😄 I chuckle when people ask "what is the best (whatever)?" I answer it depends on what you want to achieve.
The "best" for one person is not gonna be the best for someone else.
It's like that movie City Slickers where the secret to happiness is that ONE thing, but that ONE thing is different for everyone.
Well...I kinda went off the deep end with that ...lol
“You mean your finger?”
Absolutely agree. “The best” seldom means the best for YOU. It’s often synonymous with “most expensive.”
I prefer to consider “the best for the price and for what I’m doing.”
@@survivingringworm2202 True Dat!
Impressive work squeezing a “City Slickers” reference into a backwoods milling video. Props.
@@FritchFritch ;-) It was that or the Conan "What is best in life" reference...lol
I just realized that I made a city slickers reference in the new video coming out in a couple days. Must have been on my mind from somewhere...
Any idea why my oregon milling chain tilts down in the bar when milling?it causes the cut to dive and in turn wedges the bar. Not to mention wearing the paint off the bar and putting a bur on it.
Chainsaw noise is the sound of freedom 😃
That and an AR15.....
Thanks for sharing 👍 That was Awesome 👌
Hi,, This, I found to be really helpful information so thank you for sharing. JRG
Rite on bro that’s what I found too take care be safe happy cutting
Love your videos, I also have 80 ac in the up near escanaba , wondering if you are going to bring your little tractor to your camp site to help do the heavy lifting. Good luck for Mr mike.
Excellent