It's leaving pretty big blobs because the can is cold. Run it under hot water for 5 minutes it will increase the pressure and make the adjustments more accurate
Put the can in a bucket of hot water for 20 or 30 minutes it will increase the pressure that it puts out also when you're done with it turn the can upside down and clean the nozzle out you can make it last two or three small patches
The hot water is very useful! Also, if you have a choice on orange peel I really prefer the oil based, water based pits but make sure to use a good paint in order to hide the hot spot!!
I use them alot here in Oregon. You can adjust the way the tecture comes out of the can by warming or cooling it. You can actually do a fine orange peel by geting the can of knockdown very warm under the tap. For small knock down patches I dont use it, I just use a sponge or plastik bag with mud but for small orange peel patches I will use the can. To asure the can doesnt go bad turn upside down and spray until no texture comes out. Cheers!
I wanted to thank you. Watching your videos has really upped my game in renovating my home. I’m no pro but I’ve made wall joints that I can’t find. Thank you for making all these videos and the format you do them in.
@@ivosan11 no, Im saying don’t let off of the spray button, just hold it down and move it in a circular motion. I’ve gotten better results doing that way.
I use this stuff frequently and always keep some cans in the van. The bigger can with the "hopper" nozzle sucks so don't bother with it. This canned texture does take lots of practice, here are some tricks to help and to adjust your texture to give different results: The temperature of the can before spraying makes a huge difference in how the mud sprays. To get more depth in your knockdown you can spray a base coat of orange peal and let it set up then spray your knockdown coat over top or let the first coat partly set before adding a top coat. Varying the standing time before knocking down. Shake the can very well and frequently. This stuff shrinks a lot so your wet texture needs to be heavier then what you are matching. You can use a hair dryer to get it to set up faster If you have left over rinse the nozzle and keep a lid on the open can.
Hey Ben: Been using the orange peel type for several years. Works very well provided you get the spray "dialed on" first on a test piece. The spray adjustment will give you a wider range of spray patterns if you screw it in or out beyond the "vernier" on the can top. You can turn the can upside-down and clear the feed tube and nozzle when you are done spraying which will give you a longer storage time for the unused portion. Keep the videos coming!
I decided to freshen up my bedroom with some paint. This led to me removing some wood trim (aka 2x4s) that the previous owners put where all the corners of the walls met including the ceiling. This revealed they did not mud and tape when they finished the basement. Thanks to your channel I’ve learned how to do that easily and my dad said I did a better job than they did where they did decide to mud and tape. I purchased the orange peel canned texture just to match up what I’ve done to the rest of the room before I can finish painting and this helps a lot! I’ve been cautious to start since I’ve gotten this far. My next room I’m going to do is our living room which has wood paneling and I’m dying to know what they hid under there for me to fix. Either way I’m sure you have a video for whatever I’m going to encounter next.
Just moved to Florida where this texture is in every home. Have to move a ceiling light and repair the light box hole. Exactly the video AND product I was looking for. THANK YOU!
Thank you very much, we use these cans sometimes to, I usually put my cans in hot water or a few feet Infront of my hologyn light that's 500 Watt's to get it warm and shake it up every now and then to mix it up right as I'm doing my prep, I do the same thing with my orange peel cans and even with the oil base cans, just sprays super well and you can actually use a whole can if you need to actually use an entire can. If I don't use an entire can I'll turn it upside down and spray till propellant comes out to unclog the tip. Thank you again very much.
Outstanding! I have to replace/repair five cutouts where the electrician rewired my home and moved the breaker panel from the 1st floor to the 2nd floor. My plumber moved a tankless water heater to the 2nd floor and he repiped the entire house water/sewerage. So, for these 2'X2' cutouts, this product should work well for me. Thanks for your video. I'm a believer! :-)
You have to follow the instructions on the back exactly to make it work. I usually use a piece of cardboard and hold it underneath so the overspray doesn’t hit the floor or the rest of the wall.
I used this stuff for a popcorn ceiling. When I held the can close enough to reach the ceiling the popcorn kind of squashed and wasn’t popcorn-y enough. When I backed off it didn’t really have enough pressure to reach. So the final texture was a lot smaller and smoother than the popcorn that was there.
I use the Homax water based orange peel for patches and get close to perfect results (where I work/property maintenance). The hot water trick works great. For "larger jobs" I use an electric Wagner Power Tex texture sprayer, that way I can use the dry mix. The hopper gun is still the best for full ceilings and walls.
I am a do-it-yourself kind of guy I've never used the hopper I've only used the spray can style and I have learned as I go and if I don't say so myself I'm pretty badass at doing patches
My whole house is knock down (I’m in Florida, but from Vancouver originally, I want plain walls but alas.) we had some severe wallpaper removal that left the drywall a mess and I grabbed a can of this to try to DIY; this makes me super excited for a decent match. Thanks for the awesome video!
@@brittneymerryweather9405I did the drywall in my bathroom with this and it doesn’t match and doesn’t go far. I’ve seen a lot of videos about watering down the drywall mud, literally splattering it on the wall and knocking it down. I’m going to try that next, plus it’s using mud which we probably have on hand anyways. Worth a shot!
@@lissiewickes8633 yeah, so I just tried it today and it was awful. It dried Soo fast that I couldn't knock it down. So I tried doing it immediately after spraying and it still sucked. I mean, I'm assuming user error... Or maybe the can was old? Instead, I ordered these stencils that you apply joint compound to instead. They arrive on Tuesday so I'm going to try that.
Pulsing is the 1st mistake. Treat it like spray paint. Start off your patch, wide open on paper or something. Then pull into your patch, this will eliminate most of the dripping and you'll get consistent coverage. I never use cans anymore. Hopper and compressor are a lot to setup but look much nicer and you don't get bubbles in the texture.
and I believe you'll find the directions say make circular motions in a continuous fashion. It works for me. The only problem I have with this product is the spatter ending up where you didn't intend it to go, especially trying to spray on the ceiling. But I think the hot water trick would help me with that in the future - more pressure means more texture where it is supposed to be.
Put it warm water ,1/2 hour before ,and when spraying just hold it down after adjusting pattern ,and just keep it moving as you work with a hopper or spray rig , then let set a lil longer ,before knockdown ! But you did great for the first time using 👍
Keep a wet sponge handy in the event the texture doesn't match? That's helped me a few times. Sometimes I'm too close or far and it messes up the pattern. Simply wipe away and try again.
I have been using this for some time. It took me a couple cans to dial in the proper texture for my walls. Also, I found if you apply in a circular motion, it works better. It’s great for the home owner that needs to touch up some areas. Practice...practice...practice.
Hot water to the can. Your multiole short squirts of texture is the wrong way to use this product. Carry a piece of cardboard and begin spraying on cardboard, then move to wall in circular pattern covering the patch and about a 12" radius around the patch to blend. When you first start spraying there is usually a large quag of mud that flips out, then the consistency gets more uniform, the reason to spray on cardboard to start.
It's hit or miss. I use hoppers generally, but small patches the cans seam to work. That being said, I have to go back and re-do a 3x3 area because the can malfunction on me. Get 2 cans just in case one messes up. You can always return the one you don't use
You are right Ben with practice this texture cans work good, I've been finishing and texturing drywall for about 15 years in Denver, Colorado area, there is a little texture handpump for small patches like that, it also works really good, you should try it too. Great videos keep it up men.
I tried this for a very fine, dense orange peel patch and this did not work well at all. Drizzled out and when heated turned into a mist. Got the Harbor Freight hopper cheaper than the two cans I wasted money on, and came out perfect.
I thought texture was for guys like me to cover up the screwups? Here at home take a crumpled up plastic shopping bag & dab it on the wet mud, wait a few & knock it down softly. That generally matches what the drywall guys did with the hopper. Think I am going to try smooth on my carport walls, if i fail texture it will be.
I'm actually in a spot where I need to match a knockdown, and the can aint doin it. Was about to crack out the compressor and hopper tomorrow, but going to give this a shot. Will update, but if it works, heres a VR BJ
I used that stuff and I don't have much experience with texture. It did a great job for a small patch job. After painting, it looked like the original job. 10 out of 10 stars.
The hot water absolutely works. I've used the orange peel version many times on small repairs and as long as the texture isn't too large it works pretty good.
My brother used to do handyman work in FL and everyone has popcorn or knock down walls and ceilings. He used this stuff all the time. Would use a can for 2-3 maybe even 4 patches if they werent that big.
As a another side note, in my case I prefer the oil based homax texture as it sprays more consistently; especially for the orange peel texture. They have a water based version for both styles of texture, orange peel and knock down, as perhaps a environmentally friendlier solution but does not perform as well. @Cancouver Carpenter, your tutorials are gospel! Thank you very much for all the information you provide to us mortals! I appreciate a craftsman’s pursuit of perfection in his/her trade.
The oil-based dries quicker but it also seems to flash paint. It also has more texture to it because the water base dries out and shrinks up. But some texture that's what you want. Right tool for the job.
Damian M I completely agree. I just started using the oil-based cans and was shocked at how much better they perform. Way more consistent and far fewer bubbles.
Working in the apartment maintenance field where I mainly patch door knob holes and the occasional less than 12"x12" holes, I use the Homax orange peel and it always works great as well. As far as price, yes, it is a bit high, but for what I am patching I can make a can last for a few patches.
That stuff works fantastic!! I did a 4x4 ft area with it and it worked great. I did have to spray a tad heavy and wait about 5 mins to knockdown but then the results were great.
I love watching your videos man, ive done knockdown several different ways, just tried homax for a repair that was 20 feet high up. My only additional advice is to prime the patch prior to spraying, i have had better results this way BUT HOLY S*** YOU DID SUCH AN AMAZING JOB matched beautifully
I've never used a hopper. I've always used the spray can. You sprayed about half as close as you should, and you seemed to be "spray painting" with short bursts. This is why it was leaking all over the place. It's absolutely ok to over spray your patch area, you can wipe it off with the sponge right after spraying. You are right, you should have waited longer before knocking it down. I've been using the spray cans for decades, and with all that practice, you can't even tell there is a patch. I can't imagine you did better with a hopper, and I can't imagine you do those short bursts using a hopper. Use the can like you would the hopper. Long blasts about twice the distance you were in this case.
I've done whole bathrooms with those and it came out great good tip I learned was to put cans in hot water to warm up before spraying and not only will it work better/be cleaner but also go a little further in sq ft
I've always had trouble with the can product coming up flat. Cheaper and better in my opinion is a stucco dash brush. Dip the brush in the mud and flick at the wall. With a little practice you can get the spray pattern right and it knocks down like the bags of spray texture since it doesn't have all the air it the can produces.
That did turn out pretty good. I’ve used the orange peel cans for small stuff too but for the price I actually don’t mind using the hopper. I even constructed a 32 ounce Gatorade bottle with the hose clamp to my Wallboard pro 200 gun for small jobs. And for small knockdown jobs I’ve been using a sea sponge to dip and texture the patch then after a few minutes knock it down.
I used the type intended for ceilings. The can I got was no more useful for fixing a ceiling than a can of RediWhip. No matter how much I shook it and heated it up, the paint wouldn't go more than 2" into the air and barely stuck to the surface above. It just left a mess. I understand that the shelf life is limited and it's possible that Wall Mart sold me an expired can, but the date is embedded in the serial number, so it's not obvious when the cans are old. If Homax really cared about keeping their customers happy, they'd put a more conspicuous "sell by" date on the can with a warning to avoid any can that's expired, but apparently they don't care that much, hence all the bad reviews. I'd avoid anything with the Homax label at this point.
This is probably a stupid idea, but I want to put up peel and stick tile in the kitchen of my apartment, but I will have to sand the walls first... and eventually add the texture back in when I move out. I think the canned texture will be useful since I don't want to create a lot of waste buying materials to texture a very small surface area!
Hopper is always the best way to match texture. It's a pain for small jobs though, so when I can use a can i do. Med to small orange peel is usually great. Knockdown doesn't have the body to work.
Only one I don't like is the pop corn can as it uses foam blobs not aggregate it still gets it close, but definitely not as good as the orange peel can. I inventory all texture materials so sometimes it's easier for me to grab what I have at home vs driving 30-40 min to buy a can.
Something was wrong with that can. We use those all the time for patches. They work great for that purpose. Also, you really want to spot prime that area before painting, or you may get flashing in a high light area.
When I use can texture I heat them first and shake well. Also when doing patches after spraying patches always knock down the hot mud first before you go on existing paint because the texture stays wet a little longer than on new drywall or hot mud.
Just a heads up... I have used both the knockdown and orange peel cans. Multiple times. The orange peel one I used was a JOKE. I shook it for three or four minutes and let it warm up as well, but no matter what I did the orange peel applied like a thicker layer of paint. There was just no depth to it. I had to use caulking instead for some patches because the caulking left enough depth to match better than the can crap. The knockdown one did seem to do better, and yes waiting about 15 to 25 minutes before knocking down makes a big difference. Curious to see how you do with the orange peel, because I'd like to find one that works and looks right. So many people doing orange peel now, I love knockdown.
I have a can of orange peel that I've been trying to work up the courage to use on some patches on my living room wall. It cost $13 here in the US at Walmart. I'd love to see how you do it. Thanks for your great videos!
I tried the popcorn on the ceiling. First time was horrible. The bits were way too large. I bought a second can, scraped off the first stuff, and tried again. Again, it was a disaster. Maybe if I was a professional who knew how to do it by conventional methods it would have worked better.
Vancouver Carpenter, i've used the spray texture numerous times with good results, about $ 12.00 at my local Lowe's & Home Depot. i think your result may have been a little better had you waited around 5 minutes, before the knockdown instead of two.
@@zoeclearwater yes its, and i don't know about other states, but here in Calif. a can of spray texture, depending on the size, costs between $ 11 and $ 14 dollars. i don't know why it costs $ 25 dollars in Canada. maybe its taxes, import costs, or tariffs etc.
Thanks, I also had good results when I had a small drywall patch. Our house seems to be settling, now, and we have a pretty large expansion gap in the ceiling over the living room, between the sheet rock, so will use this after I get that gap patched up. (Future video idea for you?)
I was wondering if you were ever going to mess with any texture. It there is definitely an to it. I keep a can or two in my kit for small patches and have been able to get “near perfect” results on occasion. I also pre heat the can in hot water like everyone else here in the comment section 😉
Helpful video. I was going to try it, but I just read it contains crystalline silica which it also states causes cancer. Risk is based upon exposure to the aerosol and dust from sanding. I’ll pass on this product. 😮
Thanks for your videos, the time and effort doesn't go unnoticed. Our company does small drywall patches sometimes and for small jobs, the texture in a can is invaluable. For the time that it takes to lug out the compressor, hopper and texture.. then to clean up the mess, you will be driving home using the spray. Makes jobs more profitable while keeping costs down for customer. Only downside is the cost! Basically 20 USD here in California. The cost of materials is offset by the high hourly rates we make out here. Thanks for your videos, they are a gold mine for anyone in the trades. Blessings brother!
It's leaving pretty big blobs because the can is cold. Run it under hot water for 5 minutes it will increase the pressure and make the adjustments more accurate
Thanks Jason, will do. I have to fix some minor creases in some of the joints of my drywall.
I'll try that
Put the can in a bucket of hot water for 20 or 30 minutes it will increase the pressure that it puts out also when you're done with it turn the can upside down and clean the nozzle out you can make it last two or three small patches
Matthew Singleton thanks for that dude!!
I was just about to comment this, yes this helps the can tremendously!
I was about to comment the same thing.. warming up the can helps a lot.
Continuous trigger pull may help with consistency of spray.
The hot water is very useful! Also, if you have a choice on orange peel I really prefer the oil based, water based pits but make sure to use a good paint in order to hide the hot spot!!
I warm mine up too and I never use the water based.
I use them alot here in Oregon. You can adjust the way the tecture comes out of the can by warming or cooling it. You can actually do a fine orange peel by geting the can of knockdown very warm under the tap. For small knock down patches I dont use it, I just use a sponge or plastik bag with mud but for small orange peel patches I will use the can. To asure the can doesnt go bad turn upside down and spray until no texture comes out. Cheers!
I wanted to thank you. Watching your videos has really upped my game in renovating my home. I’m no pro but I’ve made wall joints that I can’t find. Thank you for making all these videos and the format you do them in.
I’ve gotten better results by just holding the sprayer down and moving in a circular motion, instead of using it like spray paint.
This
Dasaster 79 yes👍
do you mean hold upside down?
@@ivosan11 no, Im saying don’t let off of the spray button, just hold it down and move it in a circular motion. I’ve gotten better results doing that way.
So face the nozzle directly at the board and turn a vertical circular motion
I use this stuff frequently and always keep some cans in the van. The bigger can with the "hopper" nozzle sucks so don't bother with it.
This canned texture does take lots of practice, here are some tricks to help and to adjust your texture to give different results:
The temperature of the can before spraying makes a huge difference in how the mud sprays.
To get more depth in your knockdown you can spray a base coat of orange peal and let it set up then spray your knockdown coat over top or let the first coat partly set before adding a top coat.
Varying the standing time before knocking down.
Shake the can very well and frequently.
This stuff shrinks a lot so your wet texture needs to be heavier then what you are matching.
You can use a hair dryer to get it to set up faster
If you have left over rinse the nozzle and keep a lid on the open can.
Hey Ben: Been using the orange peel type for several years. Works very well provided you get the spray "dialed on" first on a test piece. The spray adjustment will give you a wider range of spray patterns if you screw it in or out beyond the "vernier" on the can top. You can turn the can upside-down and clear the feed tube and nozzle when you are done spraying which will give you a longer storage time for the unused portion. Keep the videos coming!
I decided to freshen up my bedroom with some paint. This led to me removing some wood trim (aka 2x4s) that the previous owners put where all the corners of the walls met including the ceiling. This revealed they did not mud and tape when they finished the basement. Thanks to your channel I’ve learned how to do that easily and my dad said I did a better job than they did where they did decide to mud and tape. I purchased the orange peel canned texture just to match up what I’ve done to the rest of the room before I can finish painting and this helps a lot! I’ve been cautious to start since I’ve gotten this far.
My next room I’m going to do is our living room which has wood paneling and I’m dying to know what they hid under there for me to fix. Either way I’m sure you have a video for whatever I’m going to encounter next.
Just moved to Florida where this texture is in every home. Have to move a ceiling light and repair the light box hole. Exactly the video AND product I was looking for. THANK YOU!
Finally someone did a good video on texture spay cans
Usually if you wash the can & nozzle off you can use it later, my last can I reused was about a year old & it still worked 🙂
Also when spraying hold the can up to three feet away and gently move in a circular pattern - easier to build up texture density gradually.
Yessir! Just as you would with a traditional texture spray gun/hopper!
@@CuddlesTheCatTT 3 feet tho? Just wondering coz imma start making holes in my drywall to install recess lights
Thank you very much, we use these cans sometimes to, I usually put my cans in hot water or a few feet Infront of my hologyn light that's 500 Watt's to get it warm and shake it up every now and then to mix it up right as I'm doing my prep, I do the same thing with my orange peel cans and even with the oil base cans, just sprays super well and you can actually use a whole can if you need to actually use an entire can. If I don't use an entire can I'll turn it upside down and spray till propellant comes out to unclog the tip. Thank you again very much.
Outstanding! I have to replace/repair five cutouts where the electrician rewired my home and moved the breaker panel from the 1st floor to the 2nd floor. My plumber moved a tankless water heater to the 2nd floor and he repiped the entire house water/sewerage. So, for these 2'X2' cutouts, this product should work well for me. Thanks for your video. I'm a believer! :-)
You have to follow the instructions on the back exactly to make it work. I usually use a piece of cardboard and hold it underneath so the overspray doesn’t hit the floor or the rest of the wall.
I used this stuff for a popcorn ceiling. When I held the can close enough to reach the ceiling the popcorn kind of squashed and wasn’t popcorn-y enough. When I backed off it didn’t really have enough pressure to reach. So the final texture was a lot smaller and smoother than the popcorn that was there.
rustybones99 The popcorn one sucks
I use the Homax water based orange peel for patches and get close to perfect results (where I work/property maintenance). The hot water trick works great. For "larger jobs" I use an electric Wagner Power Tex texture sprayer, that way I can use the dry mix. The hopper gun is still the best for full ceilings and walls.
I am a do-it-yourself kind of guy I've never used the hopper I've only used the spray can style and I have learned as I go and if I don't say so myself I'm pretty badass at doing patches
My whole house is knock down (I’m in Florida, but from Vancouver originally, I want plain walls but alas.) we had some severe wallpaper removal that left the drywall a mess and I grabbed a can of this to try to DIY; this makes me super excited for a decent match. Thanks for the awesome video!
I'm also in Florida from Vancouver originally! My whole house is also knockdown except ONE wall. I wonder how far one can would go...
@@brittneymerryweather9405I did the drywall in my bathroom with this and it doesn’t match and doesn’t go far. I’ve seen a lot of videos about watering down the drywall mud, literally splattering it on the wall and knocking it down. I’m going to try that next, plus it’s using mud which we probably have on hand anyways. Worth a shot!
@@lissiewickes8633 yeah, so I just tried it today and it was awful. It dried Soo fast that I couldn't knock it down. So I tried doing it immediately after spraying and it still sucked. I mean, I'm assuming user error... Or maybe the can was old? Instead, I ordered these stencils that you apply joint compound to instead. They arrive on Tuesday so I'm going to try that.
Pulsing is the 1st mistake. Treat it like spray paint. Start off your patch, wide open on paper or something. Then pull into your patch, this will eliminate most of the dripping and you'll get consistent coverage. I never use cans anymore. Hopper and compressor are a lot to setup but look much nicer and you don't get bubbles in the texture.
and I believe you'll find the directions say make circular motions in a continuous fashion. It works for me. The only problem I have with this product is the spatter ending up where you didn't intend it to go, especially trying to spray on the ceiling. But I think the hot water trick would help me with that in the future - more pressure means more texture where it is supposed to be.
Put it warm water ,1/2 hour before ,and when spraying just hold it down after adjusting pattern ,and just keep it moving as you work with a hopper or spray rig , then let set a lil longer ,before knockdown ! But you did great for the first time using 👍
Keep a wet sponge handy in the event the texture doesn't match? That's helped me a few times. Sometimes I'm too close or far and it messes up the pattern. Simply wipe away and try again.
I use these for any small areas. Works great! For anything bigger I use a hopper for sure.
I have been using this for some time. It took me a couple cans to dial in the proper texture for my walls. Also, I found if you apply in a circular motion, it works better. It’s great for the home owner that needs to touch up some areas. Practice...practice...practice.
Second on the circular motion. Start in the middle and make larger circles until you reach the edge.
Hot water to the can.
Your multiole short squirts of texture is the wrong way to use this product. Carry a piece of cardboard and begin spraying on cardboard, then move to wall in circular pattern covering the patch and about a 12" radius around the patch to blend. When you first start spraying there is usually a large quag of mud that flips out, then the consistency gets more uniform, the reason to spray on cardboard to start.
It's hit or miss. I use hoppers generally, but small patches the cans seam to work. That being said, I have to go back and re-do a 3x3 area because the can malfunction on me. Get 2 cans just in case one messes up. You can always return the one you don't use
You are right Ben with practice this texture cans work good, I've been finishing and texturing drywall for about 15 years in Denver, Colorado area, there is a little texture handpump for small patches like that, it also works really good, you should try it too.
Great videos keep it up men.
Always warm up the can first. Always. It makes all the difference in the word.
Lol I was holding a lighter to the can n my mom walked in on me thinking I was doing drugs or something
@Greg Tastad it was my first time man😭 I held it at the bottom kinda far n shaked it next time I just put it in hot water much easier
I tried this for a very fine, dense orange peel patch and this did not work well at all. Drizzled out and when heated turned into a mist. Got the Harbor Freight hopper cheaper than the two cans I wasted money on, and came out perfect.
I thought texture was for guys like me to cover up the screwups? Here at home take a crumpled up plastic shopping bag & dab it on the wet mud, wait a few & knock it down softly. That generally matches what the drywall guys did with the hopper. Think I am going to try smooth on my carport walls, if i fail texture it will be.
I'm actually in a spot where I need to match a knockdown, and the can aint doin it. Was about to crack out the compressor and hopper tomorrow, but going to give this a shot. Will update, but if it works, heres a VR BJ
I used that stuff and I don't have much experience with texture. It did a great job for a small patch job. After painting, it looked like the original job. 10 out of 10 stars.
The hot water absolutely works. I've used the orange peel version many times on small repairs and as long as the texture isn't too large it works pretty good.
Thanks for this. It was really helpful to see someone actually use the product
The drip of these cans kills me. I appreciate the video because it confirms I am doing it correct.
My brother used to do handyman work in FL and everyone has popcorn or knock down walls and ceilings. He used this stuff all the time. Would use a can for 2-3 maybe even 4 patches if they werent that big.
As a another side note, in my case I prefer the oil based homax texture as it sprays more consistently; especially for the orange peel texture. They have a water based version for both styles of texture, orange peel and knock down, as perhaps a environmentally friendlier solution but does not perform as well. @Cancouver Carpenter, your tutorials are gospel! Thank you very much for all the information you provide to us mortals! I appreciate a craftsman’s pursuit of perfection in his/her trade.
The oil-based dries quicker but it also seems to flash paint. It also has more texture to it because the water base dries out and shrinks up. But some texture that's what you want. Right tool for the job.
Damian M I completely agree. I just started using the oil-based cans and was shocked at how much better they perform. Way more consistent and far fewer bubbles.
@@paulsallee4889 yep.. it flashes paint. I stopped using it
Working in the apartment maintenance field where I mainly patch door knob holes and the occasional less than 12"x12" holes, I use the Homax orange peel and it always works great as well. As far as price, yes, it is a bit high, but for what I am patching I can make a can last for a few patches.
That stuff works fantastic!! I did a 4x4 ft area with it and it worked great. I did have to spray a tad heavy and wait about 5 mins to knockdown but then the results were great.
I love watching your videos man, ive done knockdown several different ways, just tried homax for a repair that was 20 feet high up. My only additional advice is to prime the patch prior to spraying, i have had better results this way BUT HOLY S*** YOU DID SUCH AN AMAZING JOB matched beautifully
I just used the orange peel and it turned out great. I used it in a high vis area, so it was well worth the money
Omg you just helped to look so cool to my family. I did my bathrooms and used your trick man thank you so much.
It’s $10 at Walmart and you have to heat the can up prior to use, also you should shake it thoroughly like 3-5 minutes.
I've never used a hopper. I've always used the spray can. You sprayed about half as close as you should, and you seemed to be "spray painting" with short bursts. This is why it was leaking all over the place. It's absolutely ok to over spray your patch area, you can wipe it off with the sponge right after spraying. You are right, you should have waited longer before knocking it down. I've been using the spray cans for decades, and with all that practice, you can't even tell there is a patch. I can't imagine you did better with a hopper, and I can't imagine you do those short bursts using a hopper. Use the can like you would the hopper. Long blasts about twice the distance you were in this case.
great video, the Man who Teaches, will never go hungry, thanks for sharing!
Started with the skate videos ending on the repairs ! Love you, Ben!
I’m a maintenance tech and I love the orange peel for ceiling
Yeah I used this the other day and was happy with the results
I've done whole bathrooms with those and it came out great good tip I learned was to put cans in hot water to warm up before spraying and not only will it work better/be cleaner but also go a little further in sq ft
Thanks for all you do. I appreciate the way you explain things. I've had 3 DIY projects so far that have been super successful.
I have learned so much from your videos. Thank you so much for them. Love the skateboards in the garage!
Wow very impressive. I like it.😀
Hey Vancouver how about doing a video on spraying an entire ceiling?
Extremely help. Thank you.
I've always had trouble with the can product coming up flat. Cheaper and better in my opinion is a stucco dash brush. Dip the brush in the mud and flick at the wall. With a little practice you can get the spray pattern right and it knocks down like the bags of spray texture since it doesn't have all the air it the can produces.
great job canuck,, they tell u to buy a fancy 30$ knockdown tool and not to use a metal spackle knife and he pulls it off! amazin work
You earned a like and subscribe for being clear, succinct, and helpful.
I'm a painter and I always use the cans except the popcorn one it sucks. But with practice it will work great
I just bought the Homax popcorn spray today. (Haven't used it yet) What makes you not like it???
It will not match
Thank you for such an informative video. This content made me worry less about a mark on the wall I made.
I live in the united states and they use that texture a lot here! Thanks for a great review man.
That did turn out pretty good. I’ve used the orange peel cans for small stuff too but for the price I actually don’t mind using the hopper. I even constructed a 32 ounce Gatorade bottle with the hose clamp to my Wallboard pro 200 gun for small jobs. And for small knockdown jobs I’ve been using a sea sponge to dip and texture the patch then after a few minutes knock it down.
My dad has a hose clamp and a peice of 4 inch ABS pipe.
Aaaarg. I just used three cans a few days ago and mine suck. I couldn't believe my eyes when yours came out right.
Same here.
Idk if u still use these but put em in hot water before u use em and they spray so much smoother
I rarely use a hopper anymore I spray with a Binks sprayer with a big tip all I do is Repairs I hate can Texture
Also I always use primer before I paint
I used the type intended for ceilings. The can I got was no more useful for fixing a ceiling than a can of RediWhip. No matter how much I shook it and heated it up, the paint wouldn't go more than 2" into the air and barely stuck to the surface above. It just left a mess. I understand that the shelf life is limited and it's possible that Wall Mart sold me an expired can, but the date is embedded in the serial number, so it's not obvious when the cans are old. If Homax really cared about keeping their customers happy, they'd put a more conspicuous "sell by" date on the can with a warning to avoid any can that's expired, but apparently they don't care that much, hence all the bad reviews. I'd avoid anything with the Homax label at this point.
This is probably a stupid idea, but I want to put up peel and stick tile in the kitchen of my apartment, but I will have to sand the walls first... and eventually add the texture back in when I move out. I think the canned texture will be useful since I don't want to create a lot of waste buying materials to texture a very small surface area!
Oil based one sets thicker they also sell the one with Hopper nozzle. Bigger and more settings to adjust but nothing matches better than a Hopper
I used it to just don't over scrape it works great!
I used mud it worked great. I dipped my balled up plastic bag in mud and it worked make peaks and knock it down. I did my hole kitchen ceiling.
My recommendation for homax to work better, leave it in hot water for a moment and you will have a better result when spraying the material
Hopper is always the best way to match texture. It's a pain for small jobs though, so when I can use a can i do. Med to small orange peel is usually great. Knockdown doesn't have the body to work.
Thanks for your videos Vancouver I have learned a lot.
Thanks for sharing. The knockdown tip was really helpful. How many minutes did you wait for before using the spatula?
Only one I don't like is the pop corn can as it uses foam blobs not aggregate it still gets it close, but definitely not as good as the orange peel can. I inventory all texture materials so sometimes it's easier for me to grab what I have at home vs driving 30-40 min to buy a can.
Wow, that stuff works really good! Thanks for the review and demonstration.👍😁
Something was wrong with that can. We use those all the time for patches. They work great for that purpose. Also, you really want to spot prime that area before painting, or you may get flashing in a high light area.
When I use can texture I heat them first and shake well. Also when doing patches after spraying patches always knock down the hot mud first before you go on existing paint because the texture stays wet a little longer than on new drywall or hot mud.
Just a heads up... I have used both the knockdown and orange peel cans. Multiple times. The orange peel one I used was a JOKE. I shook it for three or four minutes and let it warm up as well, but no matter what I did the orange peel applied like a thicker layer of paint. There was just no depth to it. I had to use caulking instead for some patches because the caulking left enough depth to match better than the can crap. The knockdown one did seem to do better, and yes waiting about 15 to 25 minutes before knocking down makes a big difference. Curious to see how you do with the orange peel, because I'd like to find one that works and looks right. So many people doing orange peel now, I love knockdown.
Worked well for me too, but it made much more mess. Oozing down the sides of the can, all over the floor.
Very helpful video - thanks for posting!
Wow! Thanks! I have orange peel walls, and will use this over my patches!
I have a can of orange peel that I've been trying to work up the courage to use on some patches on my living room wall. It cost $13 here in the US at Walmart. I'd love to see how you do it. Thanks for your great videos!
I tried the popcorn on the ceiling. First time was horrible. The bits were way too large. I bought a second can, scraped off the first stuff, and tried again. Again, it was a disaster. Maybe if I was a professional who knew how to do it by conventional methods it would have worked better.
Vancouver Carpenter, i've used the spray texture numerous
times with good results, about $ 12.00 at my local
Lowe's & Home Depot. i think your result may have
been a little better had you waited around 5 minutes,
before the knockdown instead of two.
Norm Hodgkinson 25 dollars ? Way cheaper in the states.
@@zoeclearwater yes its, and i don't know about other states,
but here in Calif. a can of spray texture, depending on
the size, costs between $ 11 and $ 14 dollars. i don't
know why it costs $ 25 dollars in Canada. maybe its
taxes, import costs, or tariffs etc.
Thanks, I also had good results when I had a small drywall patch. Our house seems to be settling, now, and we have a pretty large expansion gap in the ceiling over the living room, between the sheet rock, so will use this after I get that gap patched up. (Future video idea for you?)
I like the orange peel alot..don't like the one for popcorn ceilings ..
Why don't you like the popcorn one???
Any advice on doing a touch-up over a doorknob hole patch, without having to paint the whole wall?
Shake the can until your hand falls asleep, worked perfect after I did that!
Bro thanks for all your help.
I was wondering if you were ever going to mess with any texture. It there is definitely an to it. I keep a can or two in my kit for small patches and have been able to get “near perfect” results on occasion. I also pre heat the can in hot water like everyone else here in the comment section 😉
The orange peel can works great too
There is only 1 I have used that works great and that's the 1 you got. It was great b4 you sanded. Good job
Your tutorials should come with a warning label: “WARNING: if not careful, you will work yourself out of a job with these skills”
Do you mean disclaimer? Not sure how you would put a label on a TH-cam vid.
Meat Sandwich you got the point obviously dumb fuck
Repetitive use make you better. The only drawback is it spills on the can from the nozzle. Great video. Thank you 🙏
beautiful work
That test board at the end is exactly what I’m trying to match
Helpful video. I was going to try it, but I just read it contains crystalline silica which it also states causes cancer. Risk is based upon exposure to the aerosol and dust from sanding. I’ll pass on this product. 😮
Wow thanks watched your video while fixing my wall first time doing it too💪🏽
omg this is the vid i needed
Do you do a lot of knockdown? Popular here in fla.
Thanks for your videos, the time and effort doesn't go unnoticed. Our company does small drywall patches sometimes and for small jobs, the texture in a can is invaluable. For the time that it takes to lug out the compressor, hopper and texture.. then to clean up the mess, you will be driving home using the spray. Makes jobs more profitable while keeping costs down for customer. Only downside is the cost! Basically 20 USD here in California. The cost of materials is offset by the high hourly rates we make out here. Thanks for your videos, they are a gold mine for anyone in the trades. Blessings brother!