I’ve found that knockdown texture works best when you give it at least ten minutes to dry. Another way to gauge it is to wait until the shine (wetness) starts to dull. Doing it too early will cause it to lay (smash) all the way down like we saw in the first couple of examples in the video. The key in knocking it down is applying a light, even pressure as you pull the knife/blade over the semi-wet texture. Once you get it, it’s a very satisfying result 😊
They also sell a knock down knife, google "toolpro TP04324" that is the correct style blade. That texture gun also sucks, get the "Marshalltown Sharpshooter 2.1" it has all the tip built in, and you can change on the fly what size tip you are going to spray with, plus has better air flow adjustment. as Michaeldavids7980 already said, allow the mud to flash over first, soon and the sheen goes away, it's ready to knock down, but if you want to long, you will no longer be able to knock it down. This video was hard to watch, so many wrong ways to do stuff. NEVER use an impact driver to tighten the hose clamp, never use an impact to tighten your blades...
I absolutely love your videos. I especially appreciate how you talk through your thought process on things you could’ve done differently, while at the same time talking about things you know really well. It is so true, you are never going to learn unless you are bold enough to give it a try in the first place. The lessons in your videos are more than just how to perform the actual technique. There are underlying life lessons as well. Great videos!
Your timing is impeccable! I was just about to replace some drywall after watching your A to Z drywall video. Very thorough and everything a homeowner needs to know
Good work! I was drywaller for a long time and 1 thing that helps with the adhesion on that vynl is priming everything, if i was going to skim over everything i would deffinitely prime the whole surface so the mud bonds better, same goes for walls you are redoing that are painted with acrylic or latex
Another tip is toss a plastic tarp down where you’re working. You pick up some dirty mud toss it on that tarp in a pile. Let it dry toss it off the tarp later.
I made my own knockdown tool using something you can find in the garage/weather stripping section. It was a metal with a flexible rubber strip attached to it. They also sell similar knockdown specific tools.
45 year taper here, spraying a nice knockdown takes a lot of practice, so many variables can come into play, I did a 12x24 family room last week and waited 30 minutes to knock it down, every job is different, pay someone to do it right, in the long run it'll be worth it, if you screw it up it'll you'll pay for it when you sell your house, seen it more times than I can count
Used an air gun a few years ago, after fearing what it would do. After using it, I was asking myself WHY did you wait? ! A great tool. I am watching your video as a review before I do another bedroom. I recall doing all the spraying vertically, bottom to top. I did not knock down, but loved the splatter/scatter as it was. I forgot what nozzle, but think medium hole. I used 100% 90 setting compound because that is what I learned and 90 because I did not want it to go to a run away drying situation. One reason for the review was seeing some people say to prime the wall before doing texture. Interesting also, was you adding the setting compound to the ready mix.
Great videos, I love your channel. Just my opinion about this process, my technique is that I spray the mixture in a circle pattern generally using the medium sized nozzle, I then give the mixture approximately 10 minutes drying time before I knock it down. I must also mention that I blend my mixture to a pancake batter consistency. I also have a cheat… once I see the base of the mixture turning white as it dries, that’s my que to knock it down, works perfectly every time 👍
In my current basement renovation, I keep muttering "How does Jeff make it look so easy" Haha. I'm quite mediocre at sheetrock work but getting better. Thanks for all the videos!
I don't do drywall and texture work for anything more than my own projects but I just use my regular knives to do the work for me. I've already got them, they do the same job, they aren't garbage, and it's one less thing I've gotta trip over when going to the shed. Takes a little longer as they aren't as wide.... but that's fine with me. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
I've been building my house, by myself except for the HVAC, using Clark Dietrich structural steel in a 30' X 60' X12' steel building. I have 12" walls insulated with blow in fiberglass with a wrap under the drywall and will have 24" of blow in insulation in the attic. The house is a bit over 7000 feet in elevation. I tried hiring someone to do the drywall but they vanished after the 'I'll call you in a couple of weeks'. Suffice it to say that I built 10' walls and a hat channel ceiling support for the drywall and completed it by myself using 10'X4' sheets. I used the ultra light mud for my texture and 3.5 liters per box. I used the Harbor Freight air texture gun with an air cut off valve. My compressor had enough CFM so it never went under 90 lbs of pressure. Thinning the mud that thin with water didn't require knock down. I has a few spheres a quarter of the size of a BB and were easily knocked off with my knife. This technique turned out well and I've just about finished painting, after the PVA primer coat. It's looking like a home now. I still have a lot to do. I used a paint sprayer for the painting. That saved a lot of time and work.
You should avoid big streaks in the knockdown. Less coverage, more dense, wait at least 10 minutes based on humidity. Use a texture mud to get the clumpiness necessary.
Great stuff! Definitely recommend trying it on a section of drywall first to get your settings just right. Spraying ceilings was the toughest for me, can only fill the hopper halfway as it will spill out on you, start in the corner or end farthest from you, and work backwards. The splatter will fall down into your eyes if you walk forward! And wear safety glasses!
Spraying ceilings is BS. Rolling your mud on is much easier. It will take longer to dry but that will also give you more working time. If it starts drying use a spray bottle and lightly moisten it. I’m not sold on these sprayers. Maybe for small patches but a large surface to much inconsistencies. But let me see what the pros think.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 i prefer the look of spray texture. It's not that hard. Hardest part is after you finish and entire room you have to clean every part of the tools. I skip troweled the walls and they also turned out great. Everyone has their own methods that work for them.
Love this. Never thought to combine my hot mud with traditional. I recently started using hot mud mixed with paint as a spackling on painted walls. That’s been brilliant. Turned 20 minute into 4 hr in the bucket. Dried great on the walls though.
It might not have been so bad if it was mounted on the other side of the handle. It looks like the side it is mounted on is warped more then the other based on how the factory compressed the tube.
@@jacob11b you’ve noticed that too huh? Based on several videos I've observed, it appears that this individual has a consistent pattern: whenever a mistake occurs, he tends to attribute the fault to the tools or external circumstances. He struggles to accept responsibility when things don't unfold flawlessly, likely due to his excessive arrogance.
So here in Vegas it takes about 6.3 seconds for it to dry. It’s 43* or 116* outside and no humidity. Great video! Did not know you were in Florida thought you were in Canada for this one!
Also for me, I like the momma bear nozzle for 90% of work, then go for baby bear for 4% and papa bear for rest(those heavy textured walls in houses, not a look for me, personally, but some ppl like and enjoy it. This nozzle also not bad when shooting stucco Cheers Jeff and crew
Texture is going to dry faster on mud than on a painted surface. PVA your walls prior to texture or skim coat your walls in order to have a uniform texture pattern.
true, nut in this case he vinyl was my nemesis. in hind sight i should have skim coated the whole thing to make it dry uniformly. In this case you can all learn from my mistake.
Zinser Gardz works great for exposed brown paper. I bought a gallon prior to a house-worth of wallpaper removal and so far, it's worked very well. Another option for those that don't want to deal with oil based primers
I've seen a couple videos that says sanding is not how you smooth it you use a damp sponge to smooth it rather than sanding, supposedly on the package somewhere it tells you that I have not read the instructions yet to verify
To avoid binding when mixing, I like to plunge the mix bit up and down and up and down, before mixing it. This allows added water to get lower in bucket and splash less. Think if mixing cream cheese for a bagel 👍
Knowledge of mudd is really key, that’s what I’ve learned in my experience. I did a bath ceiling with a ceiling mop and weighted a few to do the knock down with a 12. Nice look. Would love to do it quicker.
I use a hopper for every job big or small,super consistent ,add a locking air adjustment to the hopper hose and use 24" blades made for commercial work, I have at least 4 and have a couple hoppers at the ready
Walls throughout my house are knockdown. I'd prefer them smooth as I think they look nicer and are easier to repair, but knockdown is the nicest looking texture of all the major different styles, imo.
In noticed the same mud used to skin the wall was used to do the texture. Is this the right thing to do? I have seen different products for skinning and texturing. Thanks
This video has helped a lot but my situation is a bit unique. I got a bad batch of paint for an accent wall. I ended up having to sand the entire wall the best I could which of course took most of the knockdown texture off the wall. I took it down as far as could trying not to get to the brown paper. A little brown paper did come through in a few spots. I have sprayed those with the Kiltz. Now I'm not sure what compound mixture I should use to do a smooth coat over the whole wall before doing the texture.
51:39 also prefer using a skimming blade (or whatever ya call in your area, as everyone has own diff names for tools) along w/ trowel for walls cuz can get nice looking coats after been doing for while and find your groove, and tool prefer using; as really no wrong tool to use, as ppl use what they like and makes it easy for them; to “get the finish that is supposed to be done” for the job……meaning if hate or having an issue w/ certain tool and not getting the look you want, try diff tool/process…..and you’ll be successful Cheers✌🏻
Not surprised that knockdown tool was Anvil. I bought an extension pole that came apart after one day of use. I quickly returned it and bought a slightly more expensive tool that was way better.
Sorry for your ligament issue, but take care of yourself, and get that appointment scheduled! We want your demos (and humor) for many many more years ahead!
Something else I noticed is if you scrap your dry ridge then drag fresh mud across it you’re going to pick up chunks. You’re better off sanding with some 80 grit.
For ceilings I like an acrylic knockdown “trowel” and don’t remember the brand I’ve got and yep….even have sponges for blending etc….for walls with heavy heavy textured along w/ stucco work, these sponges are cheap enough they pretty much same, however, don’t get the sponges that are very yellow and when feel they feel like a couch cushion from 50s that was left in sun and weather for last 60 yrs as those are garbage
The company I work for in Florida makes a Great Wall texture, mud, and a spray plast. Tool World inc. We have 2 location winter haven Florida and Eustis Florida. I would like to send you some bags of our material and buckets of spray plast. Just to see how you like them.
Shouldn’t you be using hot mud for second coat due to the material being painted and vinyl and you would eliminate bubbles as hot mud sets outward and premix drys inward? Isn’t that why your getting excessive bubbles
I've seen that trick and tried it. smearing wood glue on exposed brown paper. It haven't failed me. Maybe there are reasons not to do it and to get that Kilz can instead, I'm perfectly willing to be corrected.
Hmm, the only time I used texture on drywall, I thinned the premixed mud almost to half and half and rolled it on with a textured roller. It was a much simpler technique and looked really good. I didn't skim coat everything, but used the texture as the skim coat. Probably not the best idea but I don't own that house any more. :P
Jeff your so funny, but love ❤watching your videos. I have learned a lot as a first time home owner. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge with your viewers.
I don't think you're supposed to mix a setting type joint compound with an air drying type compound. One is a chemical curing one is air drying. Love your videos
Here is another tip for you as far as texture is concerned. Ive oearned a lot from you so not being cindescending at all with any of my comments. You can do a nicer nickdown with your fingers. Obviously it would take way longer and I only use it for very small patches as I have a spray rig. But if you take regular mud dip the tips of your fingers into a medium thick mixture to where your fingers are holding a good bit of mud, the dab the mud onto the ceiling or walls with your fingertips let it set up a few minutes and knock it down you will achieve that clean knock down look. Also you do want to let knockdown set up a bit before knocking it down.
The large acrylic knockdown knives work better. They are large and flex, so you don't have to worry about the metal being bent and its also easier to not apply too much pressure.
Random question. If i spray a moldy board with chlorine or high chlorine sope. And it absorbs into the wood would that kill the smell Of mold after its drys permanently. Might be painting too. I figured chlorine would be faster and less of a mess.
Best option is to remove and replace the affected board. If you can't do that, a product designed to kill mold will work better than chlorine-based cleaners. Some research indicates that ethanol penetrates wood deeper than bleach and water. In any case it is difficult at best and mostly impossible to ensure that any product will penetrate deep enough into the board to kill mold below the surface. Best case is that the live mold left in the board will not have enough moisture to live long, and the spores it produces inside the wall will become non-viable after several years in dry conditions. In humid climates you'll be taking a fair risk that the mold will not die. After treating the surface coat it with a shellac-based primer like BIN. They do the best job of sealing odors (also good for prevent sap seepage from knots and sappy woods). I like two coats to ensure pinholes will be sealed. Shellac dries very fast, so it's quick to do two coats.
@dave7038 dane, man I appreciate the time you took to answer this. I'v been cleaning up someone else mess and trying to salvage some of my wood. Cuz its just been in the wrong conditions for to long. So this does Arm me with a little more understanding. Thank.
does not seem to be a problem here in Florida. the foil faced board in the wall assembly does a good job deflecting the radiation from the sun so the a/c keeps up just fine. Cheers!
I’m Fascinated by guys going “I have barely any idea how to do something. I should make a video showing people how to do the thing I don’t know how to do. “
We sand the brown spots hit em with 5 minute mud usually doesn't bubble if it does we cut it out rub it flat with our finger and add more 5 and it never bubbles again but I am gonna try the paint method
Jeff, you're so hilarious and awesome! Only you could incorporate basketball and the earth's axis around the sun relevant in a home diy video. 🤣🥳👏👏👏 we learn am enormous amount from you. Thank you very much. One more thing, you gave us the finger while showing us your nail tool. 🖕🤣👏
I have a 12x24 tiny home with open loft on both ends, at the drywall stage, curious about adequate space in the peak to keep it dry? Or drywall to the peak with no airspace just the insulation between the rafters. Long winded, definitely getting a hopper though
Apparently you are not aware that you put the blade on the wrong side of the handle (at 32 minutes) where the circular handle is crimped flat - there is a flat side and the opposite side of the tubular handle there are crimps at the edge and you bent the blade when you over torqued it with you electric drill. MOUNT THE BLADE ON THE FLAT SIDE.
I like how he didnt cover anything. If you've ever done this you know how much splatter gets on everything not prepped. Ganna be cleaning drywall compound off everything for days
As a former Blowes employee of 8 years I have to tell you , don't rent from depot buy new from Lowes and then when you're done return it 😂😂 get all your money back
@@scottslotterbeck3796 nope that's the return policy,I have seen it all returned, that's why they changed their outdoor power equipment to 30 days not 90,that is why I've always said Lowe's is the UNICEF Of home improvement 😂😂
@@egayetsk No the company does and it's ridiculous return policy,I had deal with it constantly.I gave up after managers would override me,so if you want to blame anyone for the prices going up blame the company, and management.I never once did this but I sure as hell will let everyone know it,and if you don't like it to bad so sad cry to the company not me
42:29 Dude you over tightened the product with a gun. They are WING NUTS hand tighten and the product is fine. Everyone messes up but to throw the company under the bus for your error is childish.
This is not how you do a knockdown pattern . You should be using a rubber blade instead of metal or plastic. If you want a thick looking pattern you need to spray two different patterns and let the first pattern dry for 10/15 mins prior spraying the final spray . With the final spray it should less air to make it a bigger bloop which gives it the thick looking pattern . The way your doing it it would be consider orange peel
Ummmm you most certainly do not need to seal where youve exposed a little brown paper cause youre not putting a bucket of mud over it youre just throwing mud on and taking it off and leaving a thin layer of mud simply to smooth out the edges of the torn paper as a prefill. Also when using mesh tape apply it with your hands do not use your knife and drag it across the mesh tape with no mud or you will fray the mesh tape and make coating it harder than it has to be. When using mesh tape you always want to use concrete fill to load with which sets up fast and hard like concrete. Never use mesh tape in angles
Hey, I am a new member looking for home renovation tips. I have been watching your basement renovation videos and decided to kick-start the project. Thanks to you for all your videos. I got the confidence from all those videos and I hope by becoming a member I get more info that would help me on various things while I am on this project.
![Knock-Down Ceiling Texture [Complete Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5p45xhotsI/mqdefault.jpg)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
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Let me know if I’m missing anything. Cheers
Which air compressor works with the hopper? Which model are you using? Don't see it in the tools. Thank you.
The Canadian link doesn’t work.
I’ve found that knockdown texture works best when you give it at least ten minutes to dry. Another way to gauge it is to wait until the shine (wetness) starts to dull. Doing it too early will cause it to lay (smash) all the way down like we saw in the first couple of examples in the video. The key in knocking it down is applying a light, even pressure as you pull the knife/blade over the semi-wet texture. Once you get it, it’s a very satisfying result 😊
They also sell a knock down knife, google "toolpro TP04324" that is the correct style blade. That texture gun also sucks, get the "Marshalltown Sharpshooter 2.1" it has all the tip built in, and you can change on the fly what size tip you are going to spray with, plus has better air flow adjustment. as Michaeldavids7980 already said, allow the mud to flash over first, soon and the sheen goes away, it's ready to knock down, but if you want to long, you will no longer be able to knock it down. This video was hard to watch, so many wrong ways to do stuff. NEVER use an impact driver to tighten the hose clamp, never use an impact to tighten your blades...
I absolutely love your videos. I especially appreciate how you talk through your thought process on things you could’ve done differently, while at the same time talking about things you know really well. It is so true, you are never going to learn unless you are bold enough to give it a try in the first place. The lessons in your videos are more than just how to perform the actual technique. There are underlying life lessons as well. Great videos!
Your timing is impeccable! I was just about to replace some drywall after watching your A to Z drywall video. Very thorough and everything a homeowner needs to know
Glad I could help!
Spray texture in a circular motion then wait 10 minutes or so until you blade it off for knock down. Depending on the temperature
Good work! I was drywaller for a long time and 1 thing that helps with the adhesion on that vynl is priming everything, if i was going to skim over everything i would deffinitely prime the whole surface so the mud bonds better, same goes for walls you are redoing that are painted with acrylic or latex
Great tip!
I was thinking that myself. Then you wouldn’t need to add the hardener to your mud. Spray prime right over your tape then roll the wall.
Another tip is toss a plastic tarp down where you’re working. You pick up some dirty mud toss it on that tarp in a pile. Let it dry toss it off the tarp later.
I made my own knockdown tool using something you can find in the garage/weather stripping section. It was a metal with a flexible rubber strip attached to it. They also sell similar knockdown specific tools.
45 year taper here, spraying a nice knockdown takes a lot of practice, so many variables can come into play, I did a 12x24 family room last week and waited 30 minutes to knock it down, every job is different, pay someone to do it right, in the long run it'll be worth it, if you screw it up it'll you'll pay for it when you sell your house, seen it more times than I can count
Used an air gun a few years ago, after fearing what it would do. After using it, I was asking myself WHY did you wait? ! A great tool. I am watching your video as a review before I do another bedroom. I recall doing all the spraying vertically, bottom to top. I did not knock down, but loved the splatter/scatter as it was. I forgot what nozzle, but think medium hole. I used 100% 90 setting compound because that is what I learned and 90 because I did not want it to go to a run away drying situation. One reason for the review was seeing some people say to prime the wall before doing texture. Interesting also, was you adding the setting compound to the ready mix.
Great videos, I love your channel. Just my opinion about this process, my technique is that I spray the mixture in a circle pattern generally using the medium sized nozzle, I then give the mixture approximately 10 minutes drying time before I knock it down. I must also mention that I blend my mixture to a pancake batter consistency. I also have a cheat… once I see the base of the mixture turning white as it dries, that’s my que to knock it down, works perfectly every time 👍
In my current basement renovation, I keep muttering "How does Jeff make it look so easy" Haha. I'm quite mediocre at sheetrock work but getting better. Thanks for all the videos!
I don't do drywall and texture work for anything more than my own projects but I just use my regular knives to do the work for me. I've already got them, they do the same job, they aren't garbage, and it's one less thing I've gotta trip over when going to the shed.
Takes a little longer as they aren't as wide.... but that's fine with me. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
Me too. A 12" knife is plenty big.
I've been building my house, by myself except for the HVAC, using Clark Dietrich structural steel in a 30' X 60' X12' steel building. I have 12" walls insulated with blow in fiberglass with a wrap under the drywall and will have 24" of blow in insulation in the attic. The house is a bit over 7000 feet in elevation. I tried hiring someone to do the drywall but they vanished after the 'I'll call you in a couple of weeks'. Suffice it to say that I built 10' walls and a hat channel ceiling support for the drywall and completed it by myself using 10'X4' sheets. I used the ultra light mud for my texture and 3.5 liters per box. I used the Harbor Freight air texture gun with an air cut off valve. My compressor had enough CFM so it never went under 90 lbs of pressure. Thinning the mud that thin with water didn't require knock down. I has a few spheres a quarter of the size of a BB and were easily knocked off with my knife. This technique turned out well and I've just about finished painting, after the PVA primer coat. It's looking like a home now. I still have a lot to do. I used a paint sprayer for the painting. That saved a lot of time and work.
well done!
You should avoid big streaks in the knockdown. Less coverage, more dense, wait at least 10 minutes based on humidity. Use a texture mud to get the clumpiness necessary.
Great stuff! Definitely recommend trying it on a section of drywall first to get your settings just right. Spraying ceilings was the toughest for me, can only fill the hopper halfway as it will spill out on you, start in the corner or end farthest from you, and work backwards. The splatter will fall down into your eyes if you walk forward! And wear safety glasses!
Spraying ceilings is BS. Rolling your mud on is much easier. It will take longer to dry but that will also give you more working time. If it starts drying use a spray bottle and lightly moisten it. I’m not sold on these sprayers. Maybe for small patches but a large surface to much inconsistencies. But let me see what the pros think.
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 i prefer the look of spray texture. It's not that hard. Hardest part is after you finish and entire room you have to clean every part of the tools. I skip troweled the walls and they also turned out great. Everyone has their own methods that work for them.
i have been super happy with my level 5 finishing tools. great customer service and quality tools with a great price
I love that you always highlight the science behind the process. A man after my own heart lol.
Love this. Never thought to combine my hot mud with traditional. I recently started using hot mud mixed with paint as a spackling on painted walls. That’s been brilliant. Turned 20 minute into 4 hr in the bucket. Dried great on the walls though.
Cheers Sean!
You have to admit cranking those screws down using your driver on the tool likely caused the bend. It is just aluminum.
I believe it was 3 ugga duggas too much for the wingnuts. Which probably implies hand tightening something. 😅
perhaps but i just can't recommend a tool that won't stay straight. it is just too light weight to expect a good result. Cheers Sophia!
It might not have been so bad if it was mounted on the other side of the handle. It looks like the side it is mounted on is warped more then the other based on how the factory compressed the tube.
It was user error not the tool. His ego won't let him admit that.
@@jacob11b you’ve noticed that too huh? Based on several videos I've observed, it appears that this individual has a consistent pattern: whenever a mistake occurs, he tends to attribute the fault to the tools or external circumstances. He struggles to accept responsibility when things don't unfold flawlessly, likely due to his excessive arrogance.
So here in Vegas it takes about 6.3 seconds for it to dry. It’s 43* or 116* outside and no humidity. Great video! Did not know you were in Florida thought you were in Canada for this one!
probably a 2 man job then Eh!
I found it is best with (plus 3 mud) to spray one day and then the next day sand to the desired flat . Very Professional look.
Go both ways and 3 'away from wall.
Also for me, I like the momma bear nozzle for 90% of work, then go for baby bear for 4% and papa bear for rest(those heavy textured walls in houses, not a look for me, personally, but some ppl like and enjoy it. This nozzle also not bad when shooting stucco
Cheers Jeff and crew
Texture is going to dry faster on mud than on a painted surface. PVA your walls prior to texture or skim coat your walls in order to have a uniform texture pattern.
true, nut in this case he vinyl was my nemesis. in hind sight i should have skim coated the whole thing to make it dry uniformly. In this case you can all learn from my mistake.
I don't and my knockdown looks great.
Zinser Gardz works great for exposed brown paper. I bought a gallon prior to a house-worth of wallpaper removal and so far, it's worked very well. Another option for those that don't want to deal with oil based primers
I've seen a couple videos that says sanding is not how you smooth it you use a damp sponge to smooth it rather than sanding, supposedly on the package somewhere it tells you that I have not read the instructions yet to verify
To avoid binding when mixing, I like to plunge the mix bit up and down and up and down, before mixing it. This allows added water to get lower in bucket and splash less. Think if mixing cream cheese for a bagel 👍
I’ve been watching videos for years my friend, and you are remarkable. Really love your videos.
Knowledge of mudd is really key, that’s what I’ve learned in my experience. I did a bath ceiling with a ceiling mop and weighted a few to do the knock down with a 12. Nice look. Would love to do it quicker.
speed depends on the quality of the wall. Cheers!
Hi Jeff its Cindy from Hawai'i! I wish I had bought that husky tool back when I textured my living room. As always, learned so much from you. Cheers.
I use a hopper for every job big or small,super consistent ,add a locking air adjustment to the hopper hose and use 24" blades made for commercial work, I have at least 4 and have a couple hoppers at the ready
Walls throughout my house are knockdown. I'd prefer them smooth as I think they look nicer and are easier to repair, but knockdown is the nicest looking texture of all the major different styles, imo.
In noticed the same mud used to skin the wall was used to do the texture. Is this the right thing to do? I have seen different products for skinning and texturing. Thanks
Can you do a video on installing a skylight?
I really like that idea for sealing the paper, I definitely will try that next time. I’ve had problems with the paper bubbling.
Me too, lol.
This video has helped a lot but my situation is a bit unique. I got a bad batch of paint for an accent wall. I ended up having to sand the entire wall the best I could which of course took most of the knockdown texture off the wall. I took it down as far as could trying not to get to the brown paper. A little brown paper did come through in a few spots. I have sprayed those with the Kiltz. Now I'm not sure what compound mixture I should use to do a smooth coat over the whole wall before doing the texture.
51:39 also prefer using a skimming blade (or whatever ya call in your area, as everyone has own diff names for tools) along w/ trowel for walls cuz can get nice looking coats after been doing for while and find your groove, and tool prefer using; as really no wrong tool to use, as ppl use what they like and makes it easy for them; to “get the finish that is supposed to be done” for the job……meaning if hate or having an issue w/ certain tool and not getting the look you want, try diff tool/process…..and you’ll be successful
Cheers✌🏻
Wow. Im only watch your stuff on my Tv 📺 as much as i can. so much more detail to see when muding
Not surprised that knockdown tool was Anvil. I bought an extension pole that came apart after one day of use. I quickly returned it and bought a slightly more expensive tool that was way better.
I am getting to the point of boycotting anything Anvil as it seems to be similar in quality to a cheap tool on amazon. Should not be in the store.
Sorry for your ligament issue, but take care of yourself, and get that appointment scheduled! We want your demos (and humor) for many many more years ahead!
Something else I noticed is if you scrap your dry ridge then drag fresh mud across it you’re going to pick up chunks. You’re better off sanding with some 80 grit.
For ceilings I like an acrylic knockdown “trowel” and don’t remember the brand I’ve got and yep….even have sponges for blending etc….for walls with heavy heavy textured along w/ stucco work, these sponges are cheap enough they pretty much same, however, don’t get the sponges that are very yellow and when feel they feel like a couch cushion from 50s that was left in sun and weather for last 60 yrs as those are garbage
The company I work for in Florida makes a Great Wall texture, mud, and a spray plast. Tool World inc. We have 2 location winter haven Florida and Eustis Florida. I would like to send you some bags of our material and buckets of spray plast. Just to see how you like them.
Shouldn’t you be using hot mud for second coat due to the material being painted and vinyl and you would eliminate bubbles as hot mud sets outward and premix drys inward? Isn’t that why your getting excessive bubbles
To get the best results for knockdown get a lexan blade from Hyde. I'm a 25 year pro and it's my go to large repairs and new work
I've seen that trick and tried it. smearing wood glue on exposed brown paper. It haven't failed me. Maybe there are reasons not to do it and to get that Kilz can instead, I'm perfectly willing to be corrected.
kills bonds and dries in 5 minutes. i have never tried the glue idea. interesting.
Super video! Filing it away for when I do my lower level build out.
Right on! Cheers Jim! texture makes a great accent wall.
Hmm, the only time I used texture on drywall, I thinned the premixed mud almost to half and half and rolled it on with a textured roller. It was a much simpler technique and looked really good. I didn't skim coat everything, but used the texture as the skim coat. Probably not the best idea but I don't own that house any more. :P
Jeff your so funny, but love ❤watching your videos. I have learned a lot as a first time home owner. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge with your viewers.
Man, I wish this video was around 2 years ago.
I don't think you're supposed to mix a setting type joint compound with an air drying type compound. One is a chemical curing one is air drying.
Love your videos
Love your videos man, thanks for the knowledge you provide
youget those pliers at the feed storee...they are used by farriers to trim hooves
Great video, but how do I get rid of it?
Here is another tip for you as far as texture is concerned. Ive oearned a lot from you so not being cindescending at all with any of my comments. You can do a nicer nickdown with your fingers. Obviously it would take way longer and I only use it for very small patches as I have a spray rig. But if you take regular mud dip the tips of your fingers into a medium thick mixture to where your fingers are holding a good bit of mud, the dab the mud onto the ceiling or walls with your fingertips let it set up a few minutes and knock it down you will achieve that clean knock down look. Also you do want to let knockdown set up a bit before knocking it down.
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing steps and expertise!
The large acrylic knockdown knives work better. They are large and flex, so you don't have to worry about the metal being bent and its also easier to not apply too much pressure.
GREAT INFO!!! Thank you!!
It's best to prime the wall before spraying the texture. That way the texture dries evenly and knocks down evenly (without large smooth spots).
I've not had that problem. Drywall and compound over the tape absobe about the same rate.
Random question. If i spray a moldy board with chlorine or high chlorine sope. And it absorbs into the wood would that kill the smell Of mold after its drys permanently. Might be painting too. I figured chlorine would be faster and less of a mess.
Best option is to remove and replace the affected board. If you can't do that, a product designed to kill mold will work better than chlorine-based cleaners. Some research indicates that ethanol penetrates wood deeper than bleach and water. In any case it is difficult at best and mostly impossible to ensure that any product will penetrate deep enough into the board to kill mold below the surface. Best case is that the live mold left in the board will not have enough moisture to live long, and the spores it produces inside the wall will become non-viable after several years in dry conditions. In humid climates you'll be taking a fair risk that the mold will not die.
After treating the surface coat it with a shellac-based primer like BIN. They do the best job of sealing odors (also good for prevent sap seepage from knots and sappy woods). I like two coats to ensure pinholes will be sealed. Shellac dries very fast, so it's quick to do two coats.
@dave7038 dane, man I appreciate the time you took to answer this.
I'v been cleaning up someone else mess and trying to salvage some of my wood. Cuz its just been in the wrong conditions for to long. So this does Arm me with a little more understanding. Thank.
Can you just use that fiba mesha tape on ALL dry wall joints? Like, just get rid of the paper for good? Seems way easier!
I actually find the paper easier. takes less work to get a smooth finish.
Jeff, have you thought about adding insulation to the walls? Or, is the existing insulation working well?
does not seem to be a problem here in Florida. the foil faced board in the wall assembly does a good job deflecting the radiation from the sun so the a/c keeps up just fine. Cheers!
Tell me why my mud knives keep bending in a corner. Then i forget and use the knife with the bent edge facing the wall, it digs in
How does this guy not swear.... It's like he wants to but his restraint/patience is amazing lol
I’m
Fascinated by guys going “I have barely any idea how to do something. I should make a video showing people how to do the thing I don’t know how to do. “
Impressive video.
Appreciate that. Cheers!
Perfect everytime
LOL eventually. Cheers!
Mudding for two days. Not satisfied as I was. Think if you get a good pattern, write the settings down! Oh, and there is an INSTRUCTION manual . 🙃
You have probably answered this 1 million times but… I can’t find that mud hawk that holds the tools. Does it have a specific name?
the hawkmate is only available at premium drywall stores or at marshalltown.com Cheers!
We sand the brown spots hit em with 5 minute mud usually doesn't bubble if it does we cut it out rub it flat with our finger and add more 5 and it never bubbles again but I am gonna try the paint method
How do you use that gun on the ceiling with that massive hopper
You have to buy the 45 degree angled adapter
Thank you!
Are the blinds getting replaced?
No. They look much better with joint compound sprayed all over them.
In the last 10 years ive done over a thousand jobs, takes alot of practice, not for unsupervised beginners
good video.
That's one nice beast of a hammer you got there!
Is it your job to make the mashed potatoes at all the large family gatherings? 🤣
Jeff, you're so hilarious and awesome! Only you could incorporate basketball and the earth's axis around the sun relevant in a home diy video. 🤣🥳👏👏👏 we learn am enormous amount from you. Thank you very much. One more thing, you gave us the finger while showing us your nail tool. 🖕🤣👏
It happens. in all my years working i have come to rely on that long finger to do most of my caulking and such.
I let the texture dry for atleast 15 minutes before knocking down. Especially if you make it that wet.
Even the shit that comes in the can says that. I live in the desert and it's always came out nice waiting at least 10 min
Depends 100% on humidity. In Sacramento, in summer, it's dry in 2 minutes. In winter, raining outside, 10-15 minutes.
Thanks for testing all this for me so I don't have to. 💪
Any time!
I have a 12x24 tiny home with open loft on both ends, at the drywall stage, curious about adequate space in the peak to keep it dry? Or drywall to the peak with no airspace just the insulation between the rafters. Long winded, definitely getting a hopper though
That's a great idea!
im doing none of this but im still watching lol
That is awesome. Cheers!
I understand wait until 10 to 15 minutes until the shine disapper
Wow! Good to find out about that lame knock down blade... Been so disappointed with the quality of expensive tools as of late.
Grasias por enseñarnos como aser la textura 👍
Apparently you are not aware that you put the blade on the wrong side of the handle (at 32 minutes) where the circular handle is crimped flat - there is a flat side and the opposite side of the tubular handle there are crimps at the edge and you bent the blade when you over torqued it with you electric drill. MOUNT THE BLADE ON THE FLAT SIDE.
All I wanted to know is how to do the knock down not all the other stuff you went through
When using mesh tape, why not just use 100% Sheetrock? Why add the plus 3 (lightweight compound)?
I like how he didnt cover anything. If you've ever done this you know how much splatter gets on everything not prepped. Ganna be cleaning drywall compound off everything for days
Today I found some mud on the; nside of my security door from a job I did 2 years ago. Stuff gets EVERYWHERE.
wing nuts should have been a clue to finger tighten ONLY!!!
I take mine apart for storage so I don't damage the knife.
LOL. maybe but I am not a fan or anything that bends under the compression of a nut.
As a former Blowes employee of 8 years I have to tell you , don't rent from depot buy new from Lowes and then when you're done return it 😂😂 get all your money back
LOL, that a criminal act.
@@scottslotterbeck3796 nope that's the return policy,I have seen it all returned, that's why they changed their outdoor power equipment to 30 days not 90,that is why I've always said Lowe's is the UNICEF Of home improvement 😂😂
If Lowe's Customer Service can find a way to mess it...they will.
Yea, you’re the dude who raises prices for the rest of us.
@@egayetsk No the company does and it's ridiculous return policy,I had deal with it constantly.I gave up after managers would override me,so if you want to blame anyone for the prices going up blame the company, and management.I never once did this but I sure as hell will let everyone know it,and if you don't like it to bad so sad cry to the company not me
42:29 Dude you over tightened the product with a gun. They are WING NUTS hand tighten and the product is fine. Everyone messes up but to throw the company under the bus for your error is childish.
letting it dry for 10 min is way easier to knock down and not ruin
Your teaching me things that are valuable to my DIY success in the future, thanks from the State of Hockey
This is not how you do a knockdown pattern . You should be using a rubber blade instead of metal or plastic. If you want a thick looking pattern you need to spray two different patterns and let the first pattern dry for 10/15 mins prior spraying the final spray . With the final spray it should less air to make it a bigger bloop which gives it the thick looking pattern . The way your doing it it would be consider orange peel
Nice
My father had that knockdown tool. Threw that shit straight in the trash 2 years ago. Pure shit.
I just use a 12" joint inife.
Knockdown is usually done with a plastic flap down here in FL
Ummmm you most certainly do not need to seal where youve exposed a little brown paper cause youre not putting a bucket of mud over it youre just throwing mud on and taking it off and leaving a thin layer of mud simply to smooth out the edges of the torn paper as a prefill. Also when using mesh tape apply it with your hands do not use your knife and drag it across the mesh tape with no mud or you will fray the mesh tape and make coating it harder than it has to be. When using mesh tape you always want to use concrete fill to load with which sets up fast and hard like concrete. Never use mesh tape in angles
i mean anvil stuff is always the cheapest on the shelf... spend a little more and get a lot better
This is why you leave ceilings to the pros
Hey, I am a new member looking for home renovation tips. I have been watching your basement renovation videos and decided to kick-start the project. Thanks to you for all your videos. I got the confidence from all those videos and I hope by becoming a member I get more info that would help me on various things while I am on this project.
Welcome aboard!