Thanks for this Brad. You are lucky to have those rocker arm holding tools. What is your approach when the closing shims won't drop down to expose the collets, and when the collets are really stuck in the valve stem? My 72000km Multistrada has had stuck closing shims and collets on all of the vertical valves. Had to use a hammer and socket to bash the closing shims down and then a hammer and screwdriver to get the collets out. Bit worried I will damage the valve seal if not careful.
i use a 3/8 extension, but you need to be mindful that the valve is sitting on the top of the piston, and you'll bend it if you hit the shim too hard. just tappy tappy tappy for as long as it takes. the collets can be a real pita, i use a little screwdriver or pick. the biggest concern there is losing them as they fly away. you can have the shim down a touch, but tstill covering them somewhat and get a pick in between the ends of the collets. no magic method though. generally, the stuck collets is a real 1198 thing ime.
@@bradthebikeboyCheers. The tapping with the extension trick worked well. I hope the other 2 valves I used with the hammer aren't bent ... Still need to get those bloody collets out whilst struggling with a plastic pry bar against the rocker
Hey Brad, Love your videos. I have a 2008 848 with 11k miles. I did the timing belts at 4k. Going to do the first valve check this weekend. Have you seen many issues with this motor by neglecting the valves? As I was suppose to do them at 7500 I am nervous. I baby her no track days....
given it's a model with an idle control valve and closed loop ecu it'll idle and run consistantly crappy at low speeds no matter what, unless it's really bad. tightening the closers should make it nicer, but probably nowhere near as obvious as an older model. i doubt it'll be way out of spec.
i think it's pointless. new collets wear, so if you replace them every time, you'll always have clearance the next time you check. once the collets have settled, they tend to stop wearing and you'll find the clearances don't change much at all. unless it's a track bike that gets revved mercilessly.
Hi Brad, Thanx for the well explained Video. Do you recommend this sort of tight tolerances for the 998s as a street Bike too? Thanks in advance from Leipzig/Germany _Stefan
the closing clearance on all the testa engines, testa and testa evo, can be measured directly. the loaded and unloaded is what many do on 2v and desmoquattro engines, where you can't measure the closing clearance directly. unloaded is the opening clearance, loaded is the combined opening and closing clearance.
@@bradthebikeboy so I got my shim kit and now I’m struggling with determining colet orientation, under magnifying glass I can really determine top/bottom and I’m not getting consistent/anticipated results. The metric to sae back and forth is confusing. I’ll figure it out eventually, it’s amazing to watch someone that’s done this a lot. Btw, the fuel line down the oil return is brilliant.
@@jimccc9467 you need to look for wear on the outer side and opposing inner side of the collet. sometimes you'll see some right at the ends on the outer (under) side - might be all you see. can be hard at times.
@@bradthebikeboy well I have successfully got all the vertical cylinder valve clearances to “Brad spec” onto the horizontal tomorrow. I have to think that if this had gone to a dealership that anyone would be custom sanding to get that .001-.002 to make it just right. It’s amazing the wide acceptable tolerance in the “checking” column. Not sure it will run noticeably different-you might be able to tell-but something to be said for talking the time and doing it right.
@@bradthebikeboy so I was just working on the horizontal valves and pulled a broken collet out in two pieces other half intact, is this common? 15k miles on engine I believe this is first adjustment.
about time they got with reality i'd say. maintenance cost is the biggest issue they have, and the multi has both been a big seller and well used, so it's a significant expense for some. personally, i couldn't give a rat's arse. i have no interest in the bike as such either way.
On my 998S to hold the closing rockers open I screw a cam bearing bolt in and use a cable tie to open the rocker.....it's a ghetto type of special tool but it does work.
Thank you.. But i just dropped it!! You have to have stopped the video, no way you could find it that fast,It it was me,itd be a year or 2 before it surfaced again
Brad, Thanks so much for these videos - really well done - especially this one as I embark on my first 4V valve service on my 1198 SP. Cheers, G
Thanks for this Brad. You are lucky to have those rocker arm holding tools. What is your approach when the closing shims won't drop down to expose the collets, and when the collets are really stuck in the valve stem? My 72000km Multistrada has had stuck closing shims and collets on all of the vertical valves. Had to use a hammer and socket to bash the closing shims down and then a hammer and screwdriver to get the collets out. Bit worried I will damage the valve seal if not careful.
i use a 3/8 extension, but you need to be mindful that the valve is sitting on the top of the piston, and you'll bend it if you hit the shim too hard. just tappy tappy tappy for as long as it takes. the collets can be a real pita, i use a little screwdriver or pick. the biggest concern there is losing them as they fly away. you can have the shim down a touch, but tstill covering them somewhat and get a pick in between the ends of the collets. no magic method though. generally, the stuck collets is a real 1198 thing ime.
@@bradthebikeboyCheers. The tapping with the extension trick worked well. I hope the other 2 valves I used with the hammer aren't bent ... Still need to get those bloody collets out whilst struggling with a plastic pry bar against the rocker
Hey Brad,
Love your videos. I have a 2008 848 with 11k miles. I did the timing belts at 4k. Going to do the first valve check this weekend. Have you seen many issues with this motor by neglecting the valves? As I was suppose to do them at 7500 I am nervous. I baby her no track days....
given it's a model with an idle control valve and closed loop ecu it'll idle and run consistantly crappy at low speeds no matter what, unless it's really bad. tightening the closers should make it nicer, but probably nowhere near as obvious as an older model. i doubt it'll be way out of spec.
Hi Brad thanks for the video. Should the clearances be checked with belts on or off?
i only do it with the belts off.
thanks mate. I noticed on your web site you sell belt kits for 1200 mts.
i am the australian distributor for california cycleworks, and have the exactfit belts
Nice video Brat, i am told to renew al collets before starting to measure any clearances. what do you think about that.
i think it's pointless. new collets wear, so if you replace them every time, you'll always have clearance the next time you check. once the collets have settled, they tend to stop wearing and you'll find the clearances don't change much at all. unless it's a track bike that gets revved mercilessly.
@@bradthebikeboy oke, that makes sense to leave them when they are not broken. Thank you.
Hi Brad, Thanx for the well explained Video. Do you recommend this sort of tight tolerances for the 998s as a street Bike too? Thanks in advance from Leipzig/Germany _Stefan
i use the same clearances on all the 4v models.
So on the evo engines there is no measurement for loaded and unloaded correct? That was only on earlier testastrattas?
the closing clearance on all the testa engines, testa and testa evo, can be measured directly. the loaded and unloaded is what many do on 2v and desmoquattro engines, where you can't measure the closing clearance directly. unloaded is the opening clearance, loaded is the combined opening and closing clearance.
@@bradthebikeboy so I got my shim kit and now I’m struggling with determining colet orientation, under magnifying glass I can really determine top/bottom and I’m not getting consistent/anticipated results. The metric to sae back and forth is confusing. I’ll figure it out eventually, it’s amazing to watch someone that’s done this a lot. Btw, the fuel line down the oil return is brilliant.
@@jimccc9467 you need to look for wear on the outer side and opposing inner side of the collet. sometimes you'll see some right at the ends on the outer (under) side - might be all you see. can be hard at times.
@@bradthebikeboy well I have successfully got all the vertical cylinder valve clearances to “Brad spec” onto the horizontal tomorrow. I have to think that if this had gone to a dealership that anyone would be custom sanding to get that .001-.002 to make it just right. It’s amazing the wide acceptable tolerance in the “checking” column. Not sure it will run noticeably different-you might be able to tell-but something to be said for talking the time and doing it right.
@@bradthebikeboy so I was just working on the horizontal valves and pulled a broken collet out in two pieces other half intact, is this common? 15k miles on engine I believe this is first adjustment.
Hey Brad, how do you feel about the newly announced no-desmo drivetrain on the V4 GT?
about time they got with reality i'd say. maintenance cost is the biggest issue they have, and the multi has both been a big seller and well used, so it's a significant expense for some. personally, i couldn't give a rat's arse. i have no interest in the bike as such either way.
Well explained. Thanks Brad
On my 998S to hold the closing rockers open I screw a cam bearing bolt in and use a cable tie to open the rocker.....it's a ghetto type of special tool but it does work.
good idea.
,until you do a valve service yourself,you always thought they charged to much not anymore it’s a painstaking to do
do it a few times, it gets easier.
Thank you.. But i just dropped it!! You have to have stopped the video, no way you could find it that fast,It it was me,itd be a year or 2 before it surfaced again
it's called editing. takes hours