A mixture of powdered plaster of paris , latex paint , powdered concrete patch, sand and some colorant such as liquid concrete dye...will give you a really nice , lightweight-hard-waterproof and semi-rough permanent coating...as thick as 5/8 " in one coat. You,ll have about 15 minutes in which to work. I build " special effects " and use this recipe often...for trees , rocks and so on. It took years to come up with it...but try it yourself.
Hello, I just came across your recipe, and I have been playing around with most of the ingredients, but have not put them together as you explained. I am curious to know how it holds up to weather, I have made foam carvings and planters, and usually cement the outside, but it sometimes needs mult. layers(more heavy) or not enough and foam is breaking. would be psyched to hear more about your special effects, esp. the rocks. as those are what I want to perfect, in order to use for my Bonsai landscapes, plantings, rock garden, etc. Many thanks. BTw , im from Boston, so winter is the main issue.
This is basically just monster mud. It works well, but plaster coat, then coat with mixed flexible tile mortar, sand to desired smoothness, paint, then water based poly is best for longevity and strength. I make Styrofoam props and this is hands down awesome, especially for extra large props.
This is EXCELLENT... but I personally do NOT put the Paint in it... because I will be painting this another color and do not want to waste good paint in the mud mixture just to repaint it later... BUT... if this is all I'm using... This is GREAT... Thank you so much for sharing this video...
When I mixed the water, white glue (LePages white wood glue) and paint (acrylic latex exterior primer) it turned into a stringy unusable blob like pumpkin guts. What went wrong?
I couldn't see what kind of paint that was, Latex, acrylic, enamel, etc.. I use a tablespoon of liquid dish soap, water, glue and joint compound,, It's not great, but it works.. You can also use Water based Polycrylic in your mix, for a very tough surface.. It's at Home Depot, Lowes in the paint department., etc..
The only reason I use this coating is to protect the foam when vacuum forming over the model. If I didn't use it the foam would melt to the plastic. After I pull the first mold this model is destroyed. Not sure about waterproof.
This video REALLY would have benefited from showing how durable the foam became after this material had been applied.
A mixture of powdered plaster of paris , latex paint , powdered concrete patch, sand and some colorant such as liquid concrete dye...will give you a really nice , lightweight-hard-waterproof and semi-rough permanent coating...as thick as 5/8 " in one coat. You,ll have about 15 minutes in which to work. I build " special effects " and use this recipe often...for trees , rocks and so on. It took years to come up with it...but try it yourself.
Hello, I just came across your recipe, and I have been playing around with most of the ingredients, but have not put them together as you explained. I am curious to know how it holds up to weather, I have made foam carvings and planters, and usually cement the outside, but it sometimes needs mult. layers(more heavy) or not enough and foam is breaking. would be psyched to hear more about your special effects, esp. the rocks. as those are what I want to perfect, in order to use for my Bonsai landscapes, plantings, rock garden, etc. Many thanks. BTw , im from Boston, so winter is the main issue.
BeReal Relentless One tip: for flat surfaces on foam use fiberglass net and coat (one under, one above) with your recepie.
@@DieselMI is this appropriate for exterior use and can you add sand to creat a more rock like texture texture?
@@billf627 yes!
you have exact recepy?strong enough to build furniture with it?
This is basically just monster mud. It works well, but plaster coat, then coat with mixed flexible tile mortar, sand to desired smoothness, paint, then water based poly is best for longevity and strength. I make Styrofoam props and this is hands down awesome, especially for extra large props.
This is EXCELLENT...
but I personally do NOT put the Paint in it... because I will be painting this another color and do not want to waste good paint in the mud mixture just to repaint it later...
BUT... if this is all I'm using... This is GREAT...
Thank you so much for sharing this video...
you can use this method on eps foam after shaping a surfbord to harden the shaped blank. you can even use a quality spekle paste on its own.
What kind of paint are you using?
Modified monster mud.
Is it good to get a smooth finish? Can I sand it?
When I mixed the water, white glue (LePages white wood glue) and paint (acrylic latex exterior primer) it turned into a stringy unusable blob like pumpkin guts. What went wrong?
Water base I guess
Some joint compounds, when mixed with glue, make a "rubber" or "slime" reaction. One by DAP does. I think it has borax in it, which reacts.
After this method will styrofoam make really waterproof?
I couldn't see what kind of paint that was, Latex, acrylic, enamel, etc.. I use a tablespoon of liquid dish soap, water, glue and joint compound,, It's not great, but it works..
You can also use Water based Polycrylic in your mix, for a very tough surface.. It's at Home Depot, Lowes in the paint department., etc..
can you sand it?
This is a mix of "monster mud" and glue...What benefit does the glue add to the coat? Is the resulting shell waterproof? Is it strong?
The only reason I use this coating is to protect the foam when vacuum forming over the model. If I didn't use it the foam would melt to the plastic. After I pull the first mold this model is destroyed. Not sure about waterproof.
can i sand it and see a smooth surface?
How long does this hard coat take to dry?
40 mins or so.