Thank you so much for this. I bought my drill doctor 750 back almost 10 years ago now. I was so frustrated because my drills kept coming out flat and useless like you described. Tired of spending so much on Cobalt drills and having a stock pile of full ones, I decided to pull the drill doctor out. Thank goodness I found your video!!! I was ready to throw my drill doctor in the trash!!
Best video for Drill Doctor on TH-cam. Like the rest of the folks before me, I hated how my 135 turns out. Now I know what I did wrong thanks to your help. You're Da Bomb...:>).
@@anthonyash3103 throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
I am so glad you made this video. I was trying to figure this out for a friend of mine who couldn't make sense of the instructions. We both work with metal so the 135 degree bits are what we want. Good explanation and pictures.
Finally a video that covers the 135 split point in proper detail . Shame on Drill Doctor for having such a lousy instruction manual . Their online tutorial is not much better . Both tutorials leave you reading between too many lines . Good job Vermont Prepper .
Great video but you made two small mistakes. The first mistake is that you need to keep spinning the chuck until it stops making noise. sometimes it will take a while but the machine is designed to get that angle correct and if you don't keep taking material off then it won't be exactly right, so just keep spinning the chuck until it stops taking material off. the other mistake was just ramming the chuck into the split point port, you need to pulse it inward. slowly push the chuck in then pull it out a little then a little more and so on. if you just ram the chuck into the port you can potentially break the wheel.
It looks like you have played Metallurgist when you did the split point. Which aligns with the comment of ramming the chuck into the split point port. Looking at the drill bit it appeared to have a color change. This indicates a change in the metal properties of the drill bit. The bit has become less hard. So slow down to decrease the heat build up. Heat does reduce material properties and how you cool it down (water, oil, air,etc.) establishes the hardness. Lessons from my Materials Class in college.
TY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No where could I find why I was not successfully sharpening my 135 degree drills. The Manual does SUCK, it's useless!! Pity because the machine itself is high quality and I have owned a 118 Drill Doctor for 10 years. Again, that machine is / was reliable. NO ONE lese has solved this 135 degree problem other than YOU. I found Drill Doctor's web page useless. Where did you see this on there page?? Who the hell would have thought one notch clockwise changes 118 to 135. Thank You my friend The machine was useless to me till I found your video. YOUR METHOD WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can see this is 4 years old but we do appreciate you taking the time to show us how. I would like to make a comment that I think you did not get quite right. When setting the drill bit in the chuck, the plus side is meaning it to be a more aggressive drill bit, so in other words it means 118 is a more aggressive than the 135 the 118 is used for softer metals and wood where the 135 is not as aggressive and it is meant to drill harder metals. Harder metals need to have a split bit so it will not wander, whereas softer metal have less tendencies to wander. Hope this helps. Thank you again!
great video for understanding that things can be fixed if you just don't get discouraged and keep researching til you find the answers I appreciate that you did a video like this thanks
DUDE.! You are the master.! I had to use white hi-lighter paint in those 118 - + groves so that I could clearly SEE what I was doing. You're the only person who took time out to fully explain those marks on the 750x, everyone else ignored them.! Great Job..!
throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
Page 18 of the Drill Doctor manual right in the middle of the page "For standard 135 degree drill bits, align 1 notch to the right (-) of the 118 degree slot" The manual also says at the bottom of page 15 splitting the point for 118 is optional and mandatory for 135.
haha, see, you have a different manual. MY 750x has a 135 mark on the alignment head as the LAST index hole (closest to the sharpener), and the manual says roughly "for splitting 135 degree align using the 118 mark" (I can pull it out and quote it....). this may explain why I've _never_ gotten a function drillbit out of mine for 135 (worked fine for 118). I bought mine in '07.
Thank you so much, I have same doctor but 135 angle was nightmare, I ruin so many milwaukee cobalt bits without knowing how to align for 135. I was counting each notch as a 5 degree to the plus direction Your advice just priceless God bless you
I have the same Drill Doctor and cod not figure out how to use it because as you said the instructions are terrible. Calling Drill Doctor was a waste of time also. Incredible that Drill Doctor hSmS no decent instructions for something that they sell hundreds of thousands. Your video helped tremendously. Thank you.
Top shelf presentation...intel was to the point and was well lit up. Previous attempts at using my Drill Dr left me with a pile of bits resembling bull plugs.
Thank you. You explained it better than they do on the Drill Doctor web sight. They never say how to do 135. Now I know. I'm still not real sure about setting on the drill stop screw. Thank you for the info, real helpful for me.
Thank you so much! I was in a jam with a 1/2 carbide bit in the mid of a project dulling out -_- I did the same exact thing you were doing. I pulled out a flat bit like what the heck! Then I also had a super aggressive cut. I was able to take a flat bit, restore it, and split tip it so it looks beautiful - am heading to finish my project. I was watching videos like you said you did trying to figure out what was going on. The directions are crazy, for something so simple they could have done better but the machine with your instructions makes an amazing tool in my shop! Thank you!!
I have a drill doctor 750. Just like yours and couldn't figure it out with the directhank. You so much i'm gonna go to my shop and start sharpening bits
Just got my 750X delivered today. I already found this video helpful. At a glance, I could see the obvious "118" position, but I wanted to know how to achieve 135 degrees. I just got a master drill set from Chicago-Latrobe in 135 degree split point, specifically for their ability to drill into harder material. Thank you for making this video! I'm subscribing as a fellow prepper!😊
Good job! I will stress what you pointed out: always continue to sharpen until the grinding stops. I made the mistake of only grinding with as many turns as I thought would be sufficient. I finally learned from Drill Doctor if you don't grind until the noise stops you won't get the proper relief to cut efficiently (wish I payed closer attention). I spent hours grinding all my bits only to learn I'm going to have to do it again!
You took WAY TOO MUCH material off while forming your split point. You took so much off that you overheated the tip, causing it to blue. Just touch it and pull it away, touch it and pull it away.
Keep in mind that when you hear the “grinding noise”, the diamond wheel is intact with the bit (and cutting its metal). This noise is telling you also that heat is being generated and when you are working with a sharp edge, this will be heating or tempering the bits cutting metal, DON’T grind for an extended period of time. Also, use some better lighting(s) (more than just one source), and maybe three to five fixed camera positions. Great video though, keep it up, thank you.
Okay, not to be redundant, but I was ready to throw the worthless thing away! Now I have wonderfully sharp cobalt 135 degree bits in my drill index. Truly, thanks for posting!
You are correct! The Drill doctor manual is good for little more than kindling. It's like the guy who wrote it couldn't sharpen a 135 degree bit! DD got a nice long letter from me regarding their manual. I may be banned from their website now. I'm not sure. Good info here.
Great explanation. I found this trying to figure out how to sharpen a cobalt bit. The 135 marks in the first step was my issue also. After doing what you showed I was able to get my U sized bit to bite into some Chrome hardened steel. (Super tough stuff.)
Wish I would have seen this video last week when I used my friends 750x. Agree that the manual is terrible. Every bit looked like crap when trying 135 degree. Thanks for figuring this out!
You're the only one that films up close to see what the heck is actually happening. Others are way to far to determine away your arse or your head. Thankyou. Any updates or improvements to this topic would be great. If any.
great explanation....i used my DD750 a lot but some bits worked fine and others sucked....the 1 notch was a big key because i swear mine says 135 about 5 notches to the right...also the silver part that needs to be coordinated for the 118/135 cut is vital...these little things make all the difference and when I spend hundreds for good drill sets, I want them to last a LONG time
I just got the drill doctor 500. I also couldn't figure out the 135 point placement. Drill dr. should of made a 118 notch & a 135 notch for the alignment part. Also you are correct about the instructions, totally useless. Thanks a lot!
Have same issues with getting the 135 degree angle and can not get the chisel point. Drill doctor videos focus to much on 110 degree and not enough on 135
I have just received the 500X. Reading the manual (PP50122KF Rev 1 10/18), it is very comprehensive and understandable . It clearly states how to set up for 135 deg and what the other 10 deg slots are for (adjusting chisel and relief angles).
Thanks! I had the same problem with 135 deg tips. I was ready to take my machine back to the store. You would think the labeling and instructions would be more clear.
@@anthonyash3103 I was thinking the same thing The instructions were pretty clear and precise even the troubleshooting part at the end of the instruction guide was easy to comprehend I did a quick read of it while I took a shit and had no problems I wonder how many are trying to change 118 bit to 135 and that change is were the confusion and poor results are coming from
Another thing to make sure you do. Never drag the drill past the setting paddles while they are engaged. Always lift the paddles clear when you insert, remove, or align the drill. That way you won't wear out the paddles. The most critical thing in drill sharpening is proper "timing" of the drill in the chuck before grinding. It is here where the Drill Doctor has the advantage over the others.
Great video, something new I learned- With the split point your angle will be off next time you go to sharpen because you ground off the grab point of the alignment arms. The manual is really lacking
my drills were coming out like the first ""äbsolutely horrible"" drill you first pointed out Mr Prepper. not anymore my friend thank you so much, excellent video indeed. kind regards John Mac
They must have updated the manual, mine says explicitly to lineup up notch to the right of 118. On my unit, the split point isn't aligned correctly for most bits. I just push it in slightly, then raise UP on the back of the chuck. Otherwise, I split more of the flute than the point lol.
I have the same issue with the splitting port. Even after minutes spent slowly advancing the thing into the wheel, it won't grind deeply enough to join the split lines at the chisel tip. Plus my machine's wheel mandrel apparently wasn't pressed onto the motor shaft far enough. I had to put a shim between the motor and the mounting plate to move the wheel inward. Otherwise it left a ~15 thousandths remnant of the chisel tip between the cutting edges. It's also as though the wheel is too low for the splitting port such that the bit can't advance far enough to complete the split. It seems to bind on something. I'll try rocking the chuck as you describe.
Great video I have the same one that I received yesterday. I got it for 135 but a dumb question, is the 118 on the alignment is it really 118 because the one notch to the right like you mentioned is 135. Thank you
@@VermontPrepper thank you I just sharpened 8 bits one of which is a masonry bit that I'm not convinced but the other 7 look great using you tutorial, thank you because I as well had flat top bits LoL 😅 prior and no other video addressed it like you.
@@ChrisNieves For carbide-tipped masonry bits, don't use the alignment port. Position the bit so that the carbide insert lines up with the two marks on the bottom of the chuck itself. Set the MTO (grinding depth) by extending the bit about an inch from the back of the chuck and tighten to just snug so the bit can slide up into the chuck with modest pressure. Plunge the chuck into the sharpening port while the machine is turned off so the grinding wheel acts as the depth stop, then fully tighten the chuck. Also, don't turn the chuck in the sharpening port while grinding. Plunge only with the white marks aligned with the cam follower. You are simply recreating the tip angle of the carbide and rendering the cutting face notch-free. A carbide masonry bit needn't be "sharp", it just needs to be shaped. Metal and wood get sliced by the cutting edge, Masonry simply gets pulverized by the cutting face.
Thank you for your video. Not sure if this video was out when you did yours but Drill Doctor has a current video :"Drill Doctor 500X and 750X - Demo Video" on You Tube that explains in detail the process for using the Drill Doctor 500 and 750
Yeah thats totally counterintuitive, i just watched another video where one of the comments says to look at the manual on page 18 and it shows to align one notch to the right for 135, but like youre saying that seems like it would make it 108 not 128, but alas thanks for sharing, just ordered me one and that tip of rotating the bit till the claws catch looks awesome, sick of always buying bits, thanks again
tried your suggestion did not work so i pushed the plate up past the 135 degree and locked it then placed the chuck in the second last hole on the left and what a difference your idea needed lots of pressure to cut as my idea required little pressure to cut and very fast drilling.
This is exactly the problem I’ve been having - bits coming out flat trying to sharpen to 135. I took the drill doctor out of the box today and tried it on a cobalt bit I’ve been using for steel. It came out flat. I will try your method tomorrow. I agree the manual sucks. Very confusing how to use those alignment things to set the angle.
If you have been going to the plus side your bit should not have been flatter, it without question should be more of a taper as you go more to the plus side.
A split point is generally optional on a 118 drill. The chisel point is acute enough to pilot the bit into the material well enough to avoid walking. 135 bits require a split point, as their slow rate of advance would have them walking all over the work before finally settling in, especially when drilling metal. One generally doesn't want to use a 118 bit to drill metal. A 118 bit in metal advances too quickly, making a ragged hole and demanding excessively high torque from the drill motor. As a general rule a split point doesn't offer any real advantage for drilling through wood, but there are exceptions. If you want to split your 118 bits for tasks such as drilling into finished cabinet wood very accurately or you are drilling very hard wood such as white ash or ironwood, go for it. Start with the chuck in the 118 slot. If the chisel point angle is too close to 90 degrees from the cutting edges or the split doesn't converge on the center of the chisel point, try moving the chuck 1 or 2 notches toward the + side of the 118 slot. You may have to iterate to find the sweet spot, and that spot might change from one brand of bits to another due to differences in the flute pitch.
Dude. Thanks s lot. I'm a pretty handy guy, and a couple hours into trying to get the set up right I was ready to throw the thing to the shit house! Lol You nailed it, now works for me!
This is helpful, but it doesn't answer the question of what the angle increments actually are? I just dont't get how it can go straight from 118 degrees to 135 in one notch?
@@VermontPrepper No need to thank me your video has made my boss so happy because our drill doctor 750x has been sat for months not in use and I have been trying for weeks to work out how to use it going on here I tryed 5 other videos and had no luck with them until I come across your video and you just explained everything in such clear detail so It all made sense to me. Now we have the sharpest drill bits money can buy so thanks again 👍👍👍👍👍👍
throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
Did you get the left-handed attachment because you have left-twist bits that turn counter-clockwise, or because you yourself are left-handed? The left-handed chuck has the cam system mirrored for sharpening in the counter-clockwise direction. The drill doctor can't do a split point on a left-handed twist bit (I don't believe,) as the splitting port can't be switched to the other end of the grinding wheel. Using the default end of the wheel will grind off the cutting edge of each flute instead of the heel.
Thank you so much for this. I bought my drill doctor 750 back almost 10 years ago now. I was so frustrated because my drills kept coming out flat and useless like you described. Tired of spending so much on Cobalt drills and having a stock pile of full ones, I decided to pull the drill doctor out. Thank goodness I found your video!!! I was ready to throw my drill doctor in the trash!!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
Best video for Drill Doctor on TH-cam. Like the rest of the folks before me, I hated how my 135 turns out. Now I know what I did wrong thanks to your help. You're Da Bomb...:>).
Appreciate the support
It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..
@@anthonyash3103 throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
I also Spent many hours trying to get the 750x to work properly. Thank you for the video.
I am so glad you made this video. I was trying to figure this out for a friend of mine who couldn't make sense of the instructions. We both work with metal so the 135 degree bits are what we want. Good explanation and pictures.
Finally a video that covers the 135 split point in proper detail . Shame on Drill Doctor for having such a lousy instruction manual . Their online tutorial is not much better . Both tutorials leave you reading between too many lines . Good job Vermont Prepper .
For sure
Thank you so much for taking the time for the benefit of others. Good luck to you.
You’re Vid is still helping people, especially me. Thanks for posting this!
@@happytime1012 you're welcome
Great video but you made two small mistakes. The first mistake is that you need to keep spinning the chuck until it stops making noise. sometimes it will take a while but the machine is designed to get that angle correct and if you don't keep taking material off then it won't be exactly right, so just keep spinning the chuck until it stops taking material off. the other mistake was just ramming the chuck into the split point port, you need to pulse it inward. slowly push the chuck in then pull it out a little then a little more and so on. if you just ram the chuck into the port you can potentially break the wheel.
It looks like you have played Metallurgist when you did the split point. Which aligns with the comment of ramming the chuck into the split point port. Looking at the drill bit it appeared to have a color change. This indicates a change in the metal properties of the drill bit. The bit has become less hard. So slow down to decrease the heat build up. Heat does reduce material properties and how you cool it down (water, oil, air,etc.) establishes the hardness. Lessons from my Materials Class in college.
THX very imformative
TY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No where could I find why I was not successfully sharpening my 135 degree drills. The Manual does SUCK, it's useless!! Pity because the machine itself is high quality and I have owned a 118 Drill Doctor for 10 years. Again, that machine is / was reliable.
NO ONE lese has solved this 135 degree problem other than YOU. I found Drill Doctor's web page useless. Where did you see this on there page?? Who the hell would have thought one notch clockwise changes 118 to 135.
Thank You my friend The machine was useless to me till I found your video. YOUR METHOD WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad I could help. I messed up a number of drills experimenting, lol!
I can see this is 4 years old but we do appreciate you taking the time to show us how. I would like to make a comment that I think you did not get quite right. When setting the drill bit in the chuck, the plus side is meaning it to be a more aggressive drill bit, so in other words it means 118 is a more aggressive than the 135 the 118 is used for softer metals and wood where the 135 is not as aggressive and it is meant to drill harder metals. Harder metals need to have a split bit so it will not wander, whereas softer metal have less tendencies to wander. Hope this helps. Thank you again!
Much appreciated. Thx for watching
great video for understanding that things can be fixed if you just don't get discouraged and keep researching til you find the answers I appreciate that you did a video like this thanks
Appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching.
DUDE.! You are the master.! I had to use white hi-lighter paint in those 118 - + groves so that I could clearly SEE what I was doing.
You're the only person who took time out to fully explain those marks on the 750x, everyone else ignored them.!
Great Job..!
Appreciate the kind comment. Thx
throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
Page 18 of the Drill Doctor manual right in the middle of the page "For standard 135 degree drill bits, align 1 notch to the right (-) of the 118 degree slot" The manual also says at the bottom of page 15 splitting the point for 118 is optional and mandatory for 135.
Lol yeah guess nobody reads. I was going to make the same comment.
This video was made prior to a revision in the manual.
@@VermontPrepper ohhh didn't know that. My bad
Mostly men using it ..what do expect? !!we only speed read the manual 😂😂 myself included aka" look at the pictures "
haha, see, you have a different manual. MY 750x has a 135 mark on the alignment head as the LAST index hole (closest to the sharpener), and the manual says roughly "for splitting 135 degree align using the 118 mark" (I can pull it out and quote it....). this may explain why I've _never_ gotten a function drillbit out of mine for 135 (worked fine for 118). I bought mine in '07.
Excellent how-to video. I was having the same issue and your explanation and demonstration cleared all of my questions. Thanks for posting !!
Thank you so much, I have same doctor but 135 angle was nightmare, I ruin so many milwaukee cobalt bits without knowing how to align for 135.
I was counting each notch as a 5 degree to the plus direction
Your advice just priceless
God bless you
It took me awhile to figure it out. The information is buried in the instructions
It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..
the manual does explain: 1 notch to the right..... and adjustments if still off, fyi
I have the same Drill Doctor and cod not figure out how to use it because as you said the instructions are terrible. Calling Drill Doctor was a waste of time also. Incredible that Drill Doctor hSmS no decent instructions for something that they sell hundreds of thousands.
Your video helped tremendously. Thank you.
Glad it helped
Thank You for taking the time and showing us in great detail. Really appreciate it. Great video 👍
Top shelf presentation...intel was to the point and was well lit up. Previous attempts at using my Drill Dr left me with a pile of bits resembling bull plugs.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Thank you. You explained it better than they do on the Drill Doctor web sight. They never say how to do 135. Now I know. I'm still not real sure about setting on the drill stop screw. Thank you for the info, real helpful for me.
For what it’s worth, I believe the manual is updated and just says one notch to the right.
Yes, I did this video awhile ago and I heard the same thing
THANK YOU! I completely agree, the manual sucks! I had the hardest time finding how to do a 135 split point. Your video saved me! Thank you.
Thx for watching
nailed it, perfect geometry on first drill as i followed your instructions, thanks for perfecting this, then sharing, priceless!
Awesome. Glad it worked for you
Your the only one that shows that part of the 135 degree angle adjustment. Thanks so much for the explanation
Thx for watching
Thank you so much! I was in a jam with a 1/2 carbide bit in the mid of a project dulling out -_- I did the same exact thing you were doing. I pulled out a flat bit like what the heck! Then I also had a super aggressive cut. I was able to take a flat bit, restore it, and split tip it so it looks beautiful - am heading to finish my project. I was watching videos like you said you did trying to figure out what was going on. The directions are crazy, for something so simple they could have done better but the machine with your instructions makes an amazing tool in my shop! Thank you!!
I have a drill doctor 750. Just like yours and couldn't figure it out with the directhank. You so much i'm gonna go to my shop and start sharpening bits
Nice
Just got my 750X delivered today. I already found this video helpful. At a glance, I could see the obvious "118" position, but I wanted to know how to achieve 135 degrees. I just got a master drill set from Chicago-Latrobe in 135 degree split point, specifically for their ability to drill into harder material. Thank you for making this video! I'm subscribing as a fellow prepper!😊
Good job! I will stress what you pointed out: always continue to sharpen until the grinding stops. I made the mistake of only grinding with as many turns as I thought would be sufficient. I finally learned from Drill Doctor if you don't grind until the noise stops you won't get the proper relief to cut efficiently (wish I payed closer attention). I spent hours grinding all my bits only to learn I'm going to have to do it again!
I have 2 of these machines in my tool crib and they worked ok.. now they work great! THANK YOU!
Thanks for watching
You took WAY TOO MUCH material off while forming your split point. You took so much off that you overheated the tip, causing it to blue. Just touch it and pull it away, touch it and pull it away.
Thanks! I just got this today and the manual sucks. Your video was great and now it’s clear to me
Thanks for the comment and for watching
Keep in mind that when you hear the “grinding noise”, the diamond wheel is intact with the bit (and cutting its metal). This noise is telling you also that heat is being generated and when you are working with a sharp edge, this will be heating or tempering the bits cutting metal, DON’T grind for an extended period of time. Also, use some better lighting(s) (more than just one source), and maybe three to five fixed camera positions.
Great video though, keep it up, thank you.
Good suggestions. This video was kind of a spur of the moment cause I was so happy that I figured it out - hence the poor filmography
Thank you from Italy, I had the same problem but now I soved
Okay, not to be redundant, but I was ready to throw the worthless thing away! Now I have wonderfully sharp cobalt 135 degree bits in my drill index. Truly, thanks for posting!
You are correct! The Drill doctor manual is good for little more than kindling. It's like the guy who wrote it couldn't sharpen a 135 degree bit! DD got a nice long letter from me regarding their manual. I may be banned from their website now. I'm not sure. Good info here.
This is an excellent video for obtaining a 135° tip. Thank you for the pointer pun intended
Thanks for watching
Great explanation. I found this trying to figure out how to sharpen a cobalt bit. The 135 marks in the first step was my issue also. After doing what you showed I was able to get my U sized bit to bite into some Chrome hardened steel. (Super tough stuff.)
Awesome. Glad it helped
thank you so much for making video, i was having the same problem, FRUSTRATING !!!! BIG THUMBS UP FOR YOU MY FRIEND!!
Thanks for watching. It was frustrating to me as well
VERY Helpful! Thank you! Should’ve watched this before FUBAR up few drill bits ....
Thanks. I tried your method tonight, and it works. Kudos
Outstanding
One of the best explanations on this Drill Doctor, thanks !
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
For some reason they would never mention this in other videos THANK YOU
Anytime. Thanks for watching
Thanks mate. I agree the manual is a shocker. Off to try your method !
Did it work?
🇺🇸👍👍 out of all the videos I've watched here's was the best one explaining exactly how to work the drill doctor Bob Elkhart Indiana thank you
Thanks Bob. Appreciate the kind words
Wish I would have seen this video last week when I used my friends 750x. Agree that the manual is terrible. Every bit looked like crap when trying 135 degree. Thanks for figuring this out!
It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..
@@anthonyash3103 Yes, it does mention that in the updated manual but that info is absent in the manual from 2010.
Thank you thank you!!! I knew something wasn’t right!
You're the only one that films up close to see what the heck is actually happening. Others are way to far to determine away your arse or your head. Thankyou. Any updates or improvements to this topic would be great. If any.
Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. I will post an update.
great explanation....i used my DD750 a lot but some bits worked fine and others sucked....the 1 notch was a big key because i swear mine says 135 about 5 notches to the right...also the silver part that needs to be coordinated for the 118/135 cut is vital...these little things make all the difference and when I spend hundreds for good drill sets, I want them to last a LONG time
Wow you kept me from pulling what’s left of the hair on my head out thank you so much
Lol. Glad I can help.
Very informative video to those of us that don't know how to use it thanks!
Thanks! good job for clear instructions on usage of the 750x
Wouldn't that first notch to the right be 128? How is it 135 if each one is 10 degrees?
Don't ask. Lol. No idea. Doesn't make sense. It just works
Awesome. It works. Thanks.
I just got the drill doctor 500. I also couldn't figure out the 135 point placement. Drill dr. should of made a 118 notch & a 135 notch for the alignment part. Also you are correct about the instructions, totally useless. Thanks a lot!
Glad it worked out
Excellent, solved my problem with the 135 split point. Thanks!
Glad it helped
Have same issues with getting the 135 degree angle and can not get the chisel point. Drill doctor videos focus to much on 110 degree and not enough on 135
hope this video helped with 135
Dip it in some water right after sharpening if you are going to do the split point immediately after the sharpening, you want to keep it cool.
I have just received the 500X. Reading the manual (PP50122KF Rev 1 10/18), it is very comprehensive and understandable . It clearly states how to set up for 135 deg and what the other 10 deg slots are for (adjusting chisel and relief angles).
Maybe they revised it. That's good if they did
Thanks! I had the same problem with 135 deg tips. I was ready to take my machine back to the store. You would think the labeling and instructions would be more clear.
It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..
@@anthonyash3103
I was thinking the same thing
The instructions were pretty clear and precise even the troubleshooting part at the end of the instruction guide was easy to comprehend
I did a quick read of it while I took a shit and had no problems
I wonder how many are trying to change 118 bit to 135 and that change is were the confusion and poor results are coming from
Another thing to make sure you do. Never drag the drill past the setting paddles while they are engaged. Always lift the paddles clear when you insert, remove, or align the drill. That way you won't wear out the paddles. The most critical thing in drill sharpening is proper "timing" of the drill in the chuck before grinding. It is here where the Drill Doctor has the advantage over the others.
Great video, something new I learned-
With the split point your angle will be off next time you go to sharpen because you ground off the grab point of the alignment arms.
The manual is really lacking
Great point!
Yes, you are exactly correct. Ugh!
problem i have w the split point GROOVE messing up the first alignment step... trying to resolve
my drills were coming out like the first ""äbsolutely horrible"" drill you first pointed out Mr Prepper. not anymore my friend thank you so much, excellent video indeed. kind regards John Mac
Awesome. Glad it worked for you
THANK YOU! this solved all the problems I was having with mine.
They must have updated the manual, mine says explicitly to lineup up notch to the right of 118. On my unit, the split point isn't aligned correctly for most bits. I just push it in slightly, then raise UP on the back of the chuck. Otherwise, I split more of the flute than the point lol.
I think they did update since this video.
I have the same issue with the splitting port. Even after minutes spent slowly advancing the thing into the wheel, it won't grind deeply enough to join the split lines at the chisel tip. Plus my machine's wheel mandrel apparently wasn't pressed onto the motor shaft far enough. I had to put a shim between the motor and the mounting plate to move the wheel inward. Otherwise it left a ~15 thousandths remnant of the chisel tip between the cutting edges. It's also as though the wheel is too low for the splitting port such that the bit can't advance far enough to complete the split. It seems to bind on something. I'll try rocking the chuck as you describe.
Thank you. You really improved my learning curve. Great video!!
Many thanks for the very informative video and verbal instructions Vermont Prepper!
Without your help, I would have returned this sharpener lol
Thank you....correct that instructions from mmfg are worthless...how do you do sort drills less than 1/4 inc?
Same way for me
Great video I have the same one that I received yesterday.
I got it for 135 but a dumb question, is the 118 on the alignment is it really 118 because the one notch to the right like you mentioned is 135.
Thank you
It's what worked for me
@@VermontPrepper thank you I just sharpened 8 bits one of which is a masonry bit that I'm not convinced but the other 7 look great using you tutorial, thank you because I as well had flat top bits LoL 😅 prior and no other video addressed it like you.
@@ChrisNieves For carbide-tipped masonry bits, don't use the alignment port. Position the bit so that the carbide insert lines up with the two marks on the bottom of the chuck itself. Set the MTO (grinding depth) by extending the bit about an inch from the back of the chuck and tighten to just snug so the bit can slide up into the chuck with modest pressure. Plunge the chuck into the sharpening port while the machine is turned off so the grinding wheel acts as the depth stop, then fully tighten the chuck. Also, don't turn the chuck in the sharpening port while grinding. Plunge only with the white marks aligned with the cam follower. You are simply recreating the tip angle of the carbide and rendering the cutting face notch-free. A carbide masonry bit needn't be "sharp", it just needs to be shaped. Metal and wood get sliced by the cutting edge, Masonry simply gets pulverized by the cutting face.
assuming the original angle needs to be 135 to sharpen at 135??? right??? or 188 visa versa?
Right
Thank you for your video. Not sure if this video was out when you did yours but Drill Doctor has a current video :"Drill Doctor 500X and 750X - Demo Video" on You Tube that explains in detail the process for using the Drill Doctor 500 and 750
I will check it out
Can't thank you enough!! Your eval of the manual is spot on . . . IT SUCKS 😆! (and I just spent $15 on a new split 3/8 why . . . ?) 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Took me a while to break the code- lol
Yeah thats totally counterintuitive, i just watched another video where one of the comments says to look at the manual on page 18 and it shows to align one notch to the right for 135, but like youre saying that seems like it would make it 108 not 128, but alas thanks for sharing, just ordered me one and that tip of rotating the bit till the claws catch looks awesome, sick of always buying bits, thanks again
Thx, it works good
I'm guessing the manual was recently rewritten? It's super clear on how to grind to 135° now...
That's what I hear
Very well explained. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Great video! Exactly what I needed.
Appreciate you watching
Thank you for this. I was having a heck of a time 🙏🙏
tried your suggestion did not work so i pushed the plate up past the 135 degree and locked it then placed the chuck in the second last hole on the left and what a difference your idea needed lots of pressure to cut as my idea required little pressure to cut and very fast drilling.
Works for me every time
@@VermontPrepper was you using drill press or hand held drill if hand held drill it took a lot of pressure to make it cut
This is exactly the problem I’ve been having - bits coming out flat trying to sharpen to 135. I took the drill doctor out of the box today and tried it on a cobalt bit I’ve been using for steel. It came out flat. I will try your method tomorrow. I agree the manual sucks. Very confusing how to use those alignment things to set the angle.
Let me know how it works
If you have been going to the plus side your bit should not have been flatter, it without question should be more of a taper as you go more to the plus side.
Great vid.... thanks.
What about a 118 drill
A split point is generally optional on a 118 drill. The chisel point is acute enough to pilot the bit into the material well enough to avoid walking. 135 bits require a split point, as their slow rate of advance would have them walking all over the work before finally settling in, especially when drilling metal. One generally doesn't want to use a 118 bit to drill metal. A 118 bit in metal advances too quickly, making a ragged hole and demanding excessively high torque from the drill motor. As a general rule a split point doesn't offer any real advantage for drilling through wood, but there are exceptions. If you want to split your 118 bits for tasks such as drilling into finished cabinet wood very accurately or you are drilling very hard wood such as white ash or ironwood, go for it. Start with the chuck in the 118 slot. If the chisel point angle is too close to 90 degrees from the cutting edges or the split doesn't converge on the center of the chisel point, try moving the chuck 1 or 2 notches toward the + side of the 118 slot. You may have to iterate to find the sweet spot, and that spot might change from one brand of bits to another due to differences in the flute pitch.
Dude. Thanks s lot.
I'm a pretty handy guy, and a couple hours into trying to get the set up right I was ready to throw the thing to the shit house! Lol
You nailed it, now works for me!
GREAT EXPLANATIONS 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much! Great advice.
Hi Susan. Thank you for watching and subscribing. Appreciate the support.
Very informative I learned a lot, THX
Thank you!!!
THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION.GREETINGS
Thx for watching
Very informative. Thanks.
Thx for watching
This is helpful, but it doesn't answer the question of what the angle increments actually are? I just dont't get how it can go straight from 118 degrees to 135 in one notch?
This was not the purpose of the video
Yep you have helped me so much with this video thanks a million 🇬🇧
Thanks Kavana. Glad the video helped.
@@VermontPrepper No need to thank me your video has made my boss so happy because our drill doctor 750x has been sat for months not in use and I have been trying for weeks to work out how to use it going on here I tryed 5 other videos and had no luck with them until I come across your video and you just explained everything in such clear detail so It all made sense to me. Now we have the sharpest drill bits money can buy so thanks again 👍👍👍👍👍👍
throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?
The jaws grab both sides of the drill, so the cuts for the split point cancel each other out. Alignment ends up the same.
odd, my user manual clearly states that one notch to the right is 135
I think they fixed it since this video
Thank you, that works great 👍
Great video thanks for this
The split point seams to never work but I did figure out the 135 notch.
apparently they fixed the manual because I just bought a 500 and all of this is explained in the manual
Yes, I heard
Bought the left handed attachment. Entered a whole new world of bum f*ckery. I will use your advice!
Did you get the left-handed attachment because you have left-twist bits that turn counter-clockwise, or because you yourself are left-handed? The left-handed chuck has the cam system mirrored for sharpening in the counter-clockwise direction. The drill doctor can't do a split point on a left-handed twist bit (I don't believe,) as the splitting port can't be switched to the other end of the grinding wheel. Using the default end of the wheel will grind off the cutting edge of each flute instead of the heel.
thank you .perfect
Thanks a lot
Most welcome
Thanks for sharing re a possible problem.
Your welcome
Great info
Glad you think so!