Every maker should have…[Pt.22]…a Thermocouple Thermometer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- What are the advantages of a Type-K Thermocouple-Thermometer for use in electronics?
Support Roger on Patreon: / kainkalabs
Useful is a Dual-Display Digital Thermometer where you can also directly display both or even the difference between 2 temperatures like at the case of a power-transistor and at it´s heat-sink.
EEVBlog Thermocouple-Tutorial: • EEVblog #419 - Thermoc...
Shop: www.ak-modul-bu...
Forum-Thread: forum.kainkala...
twitter: / kainkalabs
facebook: / kainkalabs
![Every Maker should have...[Pt.37]...a Rubidium Frequency Standard](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zW5ffFuEQsw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Every Maker should have...[Pt.37]...a Rubidium Frequency Standard](/img/tr.png)
![Every maker should have…[Pt.31]...a good magnifier, a loupe & good lighting](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ngE5619D0DI/mqdefault.jpg)
I had to go back and make sure you were complete with a bit of Texas Pete! I missed it first time around. Now I'm hungry!
The red one is really good
Very interesting. I have bought one.
But what does the hold button do? What's it for ?
is it possible to change the wires used and use like nickel or copper wires instead? also how do you adjust the temp of the cold and hot junctions in school laboratories?
As you will know every combination of metals has it´s own coefficents. So you have to measure the voltage and calculate the temperature from the set of coefficients. If you don´t have very poor metals your coefficients will be wrong For thermocouples there are standardized metal-combinations. The hot and cold junctions are not "adjusted". Just read the Wikipedia entry about thermocouples to understand the workings of thermocouples.
NEW!!!
Note! I have forgotten!
You need to remove the thermocouples before calibrating !!!
Otherwise it can happen that you calibrate the device totally misaligned!
Remove the K thermocouples, tip a battery out of the bay, press the ON button and hold, click the 1.5v battery into the bay, you'll see the bottom temperature, now you can use the MAX and T1 buttons to turn it up and down put down. (Press slowly!) Press 2x Hold button to confirm and save. It seems Error at the end, that's Ok! Your input of the temperature is now saved. Put the thermocouples back on the device and place it in a room for about 20 minutes, the device needs the time to adjust. To get a more accurate room temperature, the windows should be closed, do not blow wind to the thermocouple. You should get yourself an industrial mercury thermometer that goes exactly to determine the exact C value. Possibly. If you have a fever thermometer then you can use a glass of water with approx. 35C to achieve a more precise adjustment.
But please remove the K thermocouples with each adjustment !!! I adjusted one of my devices so much that I can not adjust it anymore. This only happens if you forget to pull the thermocouples off during adjustment.
Old:
!Calibrate instructions!
Hello! I am from Germany. I own 2 of these devices, one has 2 c degrees to the other device. Unfortunately, the instructions for stupid, like so much of what comes from China, not completely written or even with false information. I found out by chance how to calibrate the device. Instructions:
Open battery door, take one (1) battery (no matter which one) just slightly at an angle, lift so that it has no contact on the positive pole side (this is the easiest way). Hold down the power button and push the released battery back into the holder. Now comes Cal. on the display. With the key MAX / MIN / AVS you can increase the value for + plus. With the key T1 / T2 you can press the value minus. To save the value, press the HOLD key several times.
My English is not so good, many greetings from Germany
PS: I calibrated it now both devices are pretty much accurate. I have set the wrong set device so that it is the same with my Agilent U1253B. My Agilent meter is calibrated, cost 650 euros with certificate from the company, so it should be pretty accurate! But remember, even a gust of wind is enough to get another value. Should they calibrate it to around the 20C. If the device goes from -15 to about 150c more precisely and displays, these temperature values are needed more often. If you use higher temperatures and, for example, adjust your soldering iron (you should always do that, the soldering irons often did not agree with 100C!) If the value at 350 / 400C is not exact, you will certainly have a deviation of 2-4C at high temperatures (that's normal) I think you can live with that. In order to measure an exact outside temperature, do not put the device or the temperature sensor in the sun, otherwise they will get too high a value. Many people are doing it wrong. One more tip, let the device lie in one place for 10 to 15 minutes, the temperature value will be more accurate. I have not found out yet how to make the display light that is too short shine for a longer time. The light shining so briefly is a total design flaw by the manufacturer. Lights only 5 seconds, that's a joke. And no button to activate the light Permanently for the display. I will install a micro switch for the light.
Hi Andre. Thanks for the calibration instructions. I will try them out and perhaps make a teardown-video of this unit together with your calibration instructions. About the temperatur-display of solder-stations: I also found differences of up to 100°C and make a few videos about that (Atten AT80 station; analysis of the cause for the big errors etc.) Even with a quality Hakko-station I found a difference of nearly 50°C between displayed and measured temperature. Only our expensive JBC station gives halfway correct values. But for solder-tip measurements I use the Hakko FG-100 clone as a specialized solder-tip thermometer (also available in our shop). The thermocouples don´t last forever because of the contamination of the thermocouple junction from the solder. So the FG100 has cheap exchangeable sensors that should be replaced after 20...50 measurements. Is your Agilent DMM also calibrated in the temperaure measurement? Often the calibration certificate is only for the electrical values in multimeters. And your hint to let the multimeter lay around for 10...15 minutes is of course also correct because of the "cold junction compensation" inside the multimeter which is only correct if the connection of the thermocouple to the multimeter and the temperature probe at this connection have stabilized thermally.
@@KainkaLabs Hello!
Yes, the Agilent U1253B is also calibrated for temperature, but I have noticed that the purchased thermocouples from the Chinsen mostly 1c too few ads. Not quite, but is about 1C too little. I can live with that. The original thermocouple costs 30 euros, the spin! Whether it's Fluke or Agilent, the brand companies are investing heavily in their own bags at very high prices. Unfortunately, adjusted devices also cost a ton of money and still have these deviations of 0.5 - 1.5C in reality, so my experience.I search mainly devices in the market that you can calibrate yourself, so you can do the cheap buy and if it does not fit, create your own hand Unfortunately, all keep back with secret information, for that matter ;-)
I can give you a calibration manual for the PM6530D, the device can also be calibrated on some points. We sold under many different product imprints! from prices, from about 20 euros to 100 euros I have seen, depending on the company's imprint ;-) Do not expect miracles from these infrared thermometers, they work, but small deviations are gear and give.
However, you can not test soldering tips with an infrared thermometer, but check with the K thermocouple in any case.
Some product descriptions of the dealer are faulty, can be down to about -10C with the K thermocouple. Some traders have no plan and write -50C that's not true.
This is not so important with a soldering station. 5c Up or down play no role here. I now have 6 soldering stations, no one was right !!! One has indicated 350C and in reality it was 420C !!! You have to check all of them. I also only buy which one can adjust with a poti or in the menu.
At all different soldering stations I get after the adjustment the most accurate temperature values of 300-400C what is above or below fluctuates! You also have to accept that you only get an approximate value. which is ok ;-)
The quickest way to work is still my self-made T12 station with OLED display from KSGER, the available LED display I have, can be cumbersome program and set. I think the OLED versions are better. The T12 soldering stations put many other soldering stations in the bag. The price and the function are unbeatable, really. You should not buy too thin an iron, they will not be so hot. B2 is perfect for almost all applications for soldering.
Have a nice day
@@KainkaLabs I have moved the inner diode to the front of the thermometer GM1312.
Drilled a small hole and put it in there. extended with 2 thin copper cables of course. Now with my GM1312 the room temperature is detected faster, but no wind should blow through the room.
I also have a VC17B + meter that will take 2 hours to display a one-level correct temperature value. and still it is min. 1C always wrong, I must always expect from home 1c. Here I have now laid the inner temperature diode with a small hole on the housing. Within 5 minutes, it now displays faster room temperature values.
If the devices run for a long time, the internal temperature sensor will only show the internal heat from the device, not the ambient temperature!
Hello! (I'm novice in the topic) So what to do if I wanted use this cheapo Chinese meter to measure constantly high temperatures (let's say >1400°C) for porcelain kilns or pottery? Can I buy commercially thick S-type penetrating probes without metable insulations and those will work just as correctly with this device? Will there not be any needs for offsetting temperatures? Thanks for the reply in advance. B.B.
Thermocouples have standardized characteristics which are only depending on the used pair of metals at their tip. So it doesn´t matter how the practical implementation of their shape, size, insulation etc. is made.
The characteristic temperature-curve of the different types (K, J, R, S...) is not strictly linear but must be linearized either by hardware or (as in more modern thermometers) by software.
So if you buy an S-type thermocouple and set this thermometer to "S-type" you will always get the correct temperature displayed.
There is of course a certain tolerance (mostly related to the pureness of the used metal-combination) which you pay for if you want to make high-precision measurements with a thermocouple especially at very high or very low temperatures.
Usually the inherent precision of the thermometer-electronics itself is better than the precision of the used thermocouple because the specialized ICs used in these devices for processing and linearizing the thermocouple-voltages is quite good.
How to set the backlight always on? And how to calibrate the device, mine is off by 2C like yours. Thanks.
About the backlight to stay constantly I don´t know anything.
Remember that there are two specifications about the accuracy of the device:
1.) Is the inherent accuracy which is quite good for the device.
I assume they have a special thermocouple processing chip inside. AFAIK Maxim and Linear Technologies (now Analog Devices) are making these chips.
(Might have to take one apart to see which one they are using, but ATM we have sold our last one on stock and are waiting from new supply from Hongkonk)
2.) Is the accuracy of the used thermocouple. The one they deliver with the device seem to be of medium-quality/accuracy
If you buy better ones with a higher precision/lower tolerance you could in theory get 0,1°C accuracy in a narrow temperature region (say 0°C...100°C) and perhaps 0,3...0,5°C accuracy on a wider temperature range (say -40°C...250°C).
KainkaLabs You said so at 6:49 - turn on the backlight continuously.. I tested "better" thermocouples with this meter, same offset. (Of course, it won't change as the thermocouples are just 2 different metals wired together, so there's no good/bad..)
@@volvoracinggermany May be a bit late for you but what you need is a thermocouple calibrator. They plug into the thermometer in place of a thermocouple and you generate accurate references with it. So you see if the unit is working within specifications.