This video was helpful. Instead of taking the truck bed off, i just cut an access hatch into the bed, and filled it back in. Whole process took about 2 hours.
I did mine in just over an hour. I took some basic measurements and cut a 10"x10" inch hole in the bed., then removed the old pump and put the new one in. When I was done I just threw the bed liner back in. I didn't even put the plate that I cut out back. After all, it's just a truck. I never had another problem with it. Being a northern truck, I didn't want to deal with the rust or the hassle of removing the bed.
I am doing this on the weekend as my truck needs a fuel pump. Going to cut a hole and then fill it with steel later Edit: Did it, and it was so much easier than lifting the bed. Took about 2 hours total.
Thank you!!! I know know why I didn't even think of this but makes so much sense the bed liner will go right back over it. This make me so much less stressed about the project. For real who ever you are thank you lol
@@Redfiregtag I hope it works well for you. I used the ribs on the bed floor to get an accurate reading of where to cut side to side. Front to back I used the front of the bed for that measurement. Good luck.
Great video. I watched this before a buddy and I replaced the fuel pump on my truck. Everything went so smoothly despite a brief thunder storm. The hardest part of this was that two of the main bolts holding the bed down were rusted and seized. We spent a good bit time just trying to find a breaker bar haha. All in all we did this job in just a couple of hours. Thanks for the tutorial.
This is far the best way to change your fuel pump. It only takes two people to move the bed. It did the whole jump under an hour. Now I could probably do it in a half hour. I just used a hand held 18volt impact wrench.The hardest thing was reconnecting up the license plate bulbs
Great job! It took me all day to get the bed liner off and the 6 bolts. Winter de-icer in Pa. Broke a t-50 socket and bent another, had to torch the nuts and cut one off. Yours looked so easy. Have to do rockers and cab corners and will replace the fuel pump while the bed is off. Thanks for the video.
Your video was very helpful! Got it replaced in about 2 hours, dang ol rhino liner was coated over bed bolts and was the hardest task on to complete. Thanks
Good video, I just replaced a fuel pump on a 01 ranger 4x4 today. removed the bed also. might want to disconnect the battery and clean off around the fuel pump before removing any bolts.
Most excellent video. Worked perfectly on my 2000 F-150 extended cab. Did the whole thing myself with the help of a tractor to lift the bed. Saved hundreds of dollars. Thanks!
I recently had my fuel pump replaced 2000 f150 at the Ford dealership. They did not remove the bed. The had the tank out and new one in in about 1.5 hours. So removing the Bed seems like making a lot more work. It would be nice to have an access panel in the bed.
I watched 3 videos of "mechanics" taking the tank off from underneath. Shade tree stuff. I saw a great deal of struggle and grief. Then I saw your video. I think angels sang. This is definitely the better way of getting to the tank. I can breath now. I'll cheat, pay the money and simply install the entire assembly, Thanks for the info!!
Michael Hall I tried for 3 days to try and take the bed off my 2000 f150 and the bolts wouldn’t come out and broke 8 t-50’s went under the truck 2 bolts and the tank is out did the pump in 35 minutes so this way is “shade tree stuff”
@@domumpierre5022 I agree. Most of us know how enjoyable it is to remove bed bolts on a 20 year old truck. If you don't mind working on your back for a few minutes or you have access to a lift, removing the tank from underneath the truck is by far easiest. Try removing a bed that's full of stuff while on the side of a road by yourself. With basic hand tools plus a fuel line disconnect tool, it can be done by yourself in less than an hour. I'm doing one now but have the luxury of not being in a hurry so I removed the tank in my driveway in about 15 minutes and I'll finish the job tomorrow in about as much time.
@@schrankm I sprayed Sea Foam Deep Creep around those bolt heads and let it soak down into the threads overnight before I even tried to pull the bolts - they all came out with minimal struggle the next day.
Thanks for video! Just did this last night. Ended up going ahead and removing the bed like you guys did. Was so much easier in my opinion to do it that way than fooling with trying to wrestle my hands up and on top of the take. Had 1 stubborn bed bolt to deal with but beyond that was really straight forward. Thanks again!
Great video, my father in law helped me buy my first truck and I've been very proud of it it's been down about a month now but tomorrow I'll have her running again. Thank you
This video was great - other than I twisted a T50 in half on one of the seized bolts and had to cut it off (we'll replace soon i promise!) then go get a new T50 socket. Didn't have a impact driver so I was using a breaker bar - if you do this lie I did you really need to make sure and clean the lower half of the bolt and hit it with some oil before you back them out. Thanks APDTV for helping me save a lot of cash on this repair!!
Here is a link to the pump we used in this video and links to the truck bed bolts: Fuel Pump: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M4R3NS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B008M4R3NS&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=EHIPS3BFUZMTQ45J Truck Bed Bolts Set Of 8: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFF2ATK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EFF2ATK&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=LDL66UXNEY4RWXQM Truck Bed Bolts Set Of 6: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q7G54RA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00Q7G54RA&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=4V7MCX5KDRRT4FMW
The bed bolts ARE NOT Torx T50. They are Torx PLUS TP50 or T50P, You MAY get by using a Torx T50, or you may totally strip your T50 tool and the bolt as well, especially if the bolts are rusted. If you do, you will have fun (ironically) getting them out. Also you should have a hose that goes from the rear end to the bed that needs to be disconnected as well. This is a vent hose for the rear end. If it is disconnected or broken and is not reconnected or replaced, it will let dirt and dust get into your rear end and cause damage,
yes all excellent comments, we are tool crazy and have several sets of different torx drivers and the torx plus is slightly more square and frankly easier to use but the regular torx drivers can be used in torx plus except for higher torque needs, and yes if trying to apply a good amount of torque, then the proper tool should certainly used.
Very good instruction!! My oem pump finally went bad yesterday after 238,000 miles! Do you recommend changing the entire unit with sending unit? Or do think just a pump replacement will do? Nonetheless I will try this method prior to dropping tank...seems easier! Thank you!!!!
I have a long bed extended cab.And mine has 8 bolts.Also a small bracket by the wheel well looked like it needed unbolted. The video has been helpful to me. thank you for posting.
If you truck has stopped for a long time like this get some fuel cans and filters for coffee makers and paint filters that are shaped like a cone stick the coffee filter inside and use a hand pump to filter the gas before refilling the tank making sure to suck out all the old fuel and inspect for any kind of drops a breakdown of the sealer inside the tank before reinstalling in a fuel pump it will save your but in the long run
I have tool boxes on both sides and a bed liner...it’s removable, but knowing the rust on it, opting for down instead of up. Wow...it looks easy on a typical truck.
this is an awesome video. I was worried about the removal of the gas tank. removing the bed is easier that what I thought. I can do this. just kinda hard to find someone to help me lift the bed off the truck.
Good info. I dropped the tank on my 2000 and it was a real pain. You need tiny monkey hands to reach up in there and disconnect everything. It was very difficult to get the tool in position to release the fuel lines. I am now changing the fuel pump on my 2001. I had to cut two of the bolts (ground off the bolt heads) because one would not back out and another had the torx head stripped out. The fuel pump was $45 on Amazon and the bolts actually cost more. Still, it isn't too bad of a job once you get the bed loose. I used the loader on my tractor to move the bed. You can also use an engine hoist, call some buddies or just jack it up enough to give you some room to work.
Great video, inspired me to remove my bed on my 01 f150 supercrew, replaced fuel pump.as you outlined in video. Still had to lower my tank w a crew cab but it also allowed me to address frame rail rust. Bosch pump works great.
You can pick up a set of the aluminum quick disconnects tools for removing the fuel lines at Harbor Freight for really cheap and they do work do not buy the plastic ones
JUST SO EVERYONE IS AWARE, this method does NOT work on SuperCrew vehicles (5.5ft Flareside Bed). You have to drop the tank to get to it. I found this out after I removed the bed
Thanks for the reply, I got the truck in the driveway and rolled up under it.... looks like it can be done! Now I have to figure how to remove the bed by myself... maybe build a hoist system or use a tree...and a hoist. I DO NOT want to mess with removing all those connections, I have limited movement abilities. LOL, it might cost me $200 in wood 4X4's, but I think i could build a frame capable of holding up a short bed.
This does not work for SuperCrew 2001 F-150. After pulling the bed, the pump was under the cab. Though it was helpful to get to the hoses and connections at the rear of the tank..
You forgot to mention removing the axle vent tube which is also usually clipped to the bed back behind the rear axle. Also, my 2003 truck had plastic clips at the fuel pump, instead of the spring clips. Thanks for the video otherwise, it made things a lot easier!
Just a heads up for anyone with an F150 Supercrew. Removing the bed doesn't work.I found out the hard way.After wasting my time removing the bed,just to find out I still had to drop the tank.Because the Supercrew has a bigger cab and the pump is actually under the back left passenger floorboard.
Only thing missing is the differential vent rubber hose connected to underside of bed. You need to remove that hose to move bed and then reconnect it when bed is back.
nice video,would have liked a little more detail about removing the gas lines from the pump as i have different size gas line on my 1996 E150 but i can't complain for the price.thanks
Sure, the fuel lines are quick disconnects and are very similar to the ac line connections, First you pop off the metal safety clips, then a special tool exists that is not expensive and designed for both AC and fuel lines, Here is a link to the tool on Amazon: amzn.to/2h5hf1O or amzn.to/2zdM50z You can see us remove the lines with the tool at 5:05 of the video. Also the 2 different size lines make it impossible to reconnect it wrong.
FYI you soldered the connections in the tank which is good but you soldered copper wire to aluminum wire which will react and cause the connection to corrode immediately. You will be doing this job again within a year. Always use crip connectors on dissimilar metals.
Does the fuel fill neck come off with the bed, or does it stay attached to the tank. I didn't see you disconnect it (you just did the hose clamp), and didn't see it on the tank either after you pulled it off. Though I may have missed it. Thanks
At 2:40 you can see the filler neck get unbolted from the bed, and the hose clamp that was loosened is also a mounting point for the neck, once those two things are done, the neck just drops down and stays attached to the tank as the bed comes off. if you look carefully right at 5:03 you can see it still sitting there above the left rear wheel.
The thing I noticed is the hose clamps used on the fuel pump. IF this truck is FI then those are the wrong hose clamps to use; you have to use the FI hose clams.
fuel pump swap but with extra steps. side note. with these cabs and how they hug the bed, be very careful lifting the bed to clear the bumper. i wouldnt be surprised if these guys put a ding in the cab. pull the 4 nuts and drop the bumper too.
Remember if you live in a rut a couple days before soak everything down and some kind of oil spray and then get yourself a compressor and blow all the dirt off before you take the top of that tank apart. There’s gonna be rust particles mud dirt salt you gotta get rid of all that and then while you got the bed off, make sure that you do some rust Fix stuff under you know you got the bed off you Mazel fix everything while you’re there
It should also be noted that this does not apply to trucks that are a super crew, crew cab, four door, etc. This is coming from someone that just spent the time to take the bed of his truck only to discover that the fuel pump is on top of the portion of the tank that is under the back seat of the cab.
Sal Armlock so this is not the by the book method on any model, we usually have to access the situation once we ha e the specific truck in our bay, if anyone else can verify if this can or cannot be done on a super crew and or super cab models, that would be great!
Actually, after seeing the video, I'm planning to just pull out the gas tank to replace fuel pump assembly. I'm not convinced that yanking out the bed is any easier. It looks like I would have approximately the same amount of work, but at least the gas tank (empty) is a lot lighter than a full bodied truck bed.
Great video! I'm curious though why the gasket where the flange of the fuel pump assembly sits on top of the tank wasn't replaced, or was it just missed being mentioned and shown in the video? Also, wouldn't cleaning the area on top of and around the fuel pump opening on the fuel tank be wise to prevent debris from falling into the fuel tank? Sorry if I sound like I'm nit-picking (I'm not). :-/
you know honestly this video was so long ago that I cant remember, It is certainly good to clean anything that has a possibility of dropping into the tank, unfortunately I cannot answer about that gasket as I cannot remember.
With the help of your video, I tackled the fuel pump module replacement kit and fuel filter today. Since I live in So Cal, thankfully I didn't experience any rusty bed mount bolts like people in road-salted areas might. I only had myself and a friend to lift the bed off, so I cheated and used some 1/4" plywood as supports and rested the back end of the bed on the rear bumper, and the front area of both wheel wells rested perfectly on top of the rear tires, providing me ample room to complete the task. Again, thanks for the detailed video!
Jon Patterson metric is much easier and in the manufacturing world it is an absolute must, only the USA still uses standard SAE measurements but the rest of the world is using metric
Brandon Kaempfe we were not super sure on that answer as we get it often, we also would like to confirm which exact years and what years can this be done on super cab models also, no repair manual mentions this method so as professionals who usually have to follow a factory repair manual, we rely on many do it yourself customers to help answer on specific vehicles we have not been able to confirm on, we actually decide once we have the vehicle in our shop and after some diagnosing has been done.
very good video - do you know if this works on 1999 super crew? - I wasn't sure if this puts the gas tank under the cab. If any one knows please let me know, thanks.
I changed the fuel pump, put the bed on top and now my truck starts up perfectly but has no power at all. Could barely drive it home. Any clues what’s wrong? Sounds like it might be missing.
If the only problem going into this was the fuel pump, then check fuel pressure before and after the fuel filter, a clogged fuel filter or bad water pump can cause that if the fuel pressure is low after the filter. If the fuel pressure is good, then some other issue most likely exists.
My quick connectors were rotten here in the salt and rust zone. Im just looking for a part i don't know the name of mines a long bed. And its badly rusted up steel support under the bed and is what holds the end of the tailbed up near the wheel wells im looking for that part its bolted to the frame and up to the under side of the tailbed each side has it the thick rust has ate up those supports i wouldn't trust loading nothing really heavy towards the tailgate how the supports look where it bolts to the frame underneath its just so ate up and thickness of the steel support is gone
Do you really think it would bankrupt Ford or other manufacturers to install an access plate so a person could get to the pump? Compared to all the other useless cap they put on today's cars - I'd gladly pay to have a plate installed to get to the pump. Yes, I realize the fuel pumps rarely go out, but image how much easier it would be to remove a small plate in the bed or trunk rather than all the time and expense of dropping the tank or bed? And of course most people can't do this work themselves. I did a fuel pump in my 2001 Ranger by tilting the bed. Did it by myself, EZ-PEASY! Took my time and about 2 hours. I'll do it the same way on my F150 if I ever have to. Thanks for the vid! I was wondering if others did the bed method. SO MUCH easier and you're not getting a ton of dirt and crap in your face. It also gives you an opportunity to inspect and/or repair things under there. Especially those of you that live in our rust-belt.
I have the quick disconnect tool for the fuel lines on my 2001 however it does not have that it has some kind of strange clips to push in the design of the fuel pump is totally different there are no screws it locks in place by tapping a ring over the bent up metal on the top of the gas tank no screws at all hold it in place so what do I do? I'm sure I'll have it done long before I get a reply but you should think of mentioning it
if I'm transferring the whole unit to a new tank do I have to still take the quick disconnect off? i dont have anything to remove the bed and im working on the ground. I dropped the tank cuz it has a small hole in it. I also don't have the tools or the money right now to get the tools for the quick disconnect either. it's on a 97
Jake Haehnlein you could try that and see, at first I thought no because of th fuel pump lock ring but this year and model uses the 6 bolts, so if just replacing the electric pump only like we did, might be possible with your method
My friend wants his bed off his 99 f150 so he gave it to me because he didn't know how and i learned in high school but we're on the west coast and the bottom of the truck is covered in rust. but because he took it to the beach and drove it through the saltwater for fun (no undercoating, that was a stupid idea). so include driver-induced rusting too
Hi, will the bed removal for the 1999 f150 also be similar for my 2001 f150 Lariat supercrew? I would assume so. Intermittant fuel pump pressure issues (have gauge) today no pressure, relays are clicking, I suspect pump finally died. I will test for pwer at pump of course. Thanks Doug
This video was helpful. Instead of taking the truck bed off, i just cut an access hatch into the bed, and filled it back in. Whole process took about 2 hours.
I did mine in just over an hour. I took some basic measurements and cut a 10"x10" inch hole in the bed., then removed the old pump and put the new one in. When I was done I just threw the bed liner back in. I didn't even put the plate that I cut out back. After all, it's just a truck. I never had another problem with it. Being a northern truck, I didn't want to deal with the rust or the hassle of removing the bed.
I am doing this on the weekend as my truck needs a fuel pump. Going to cut a hole and then fill it with steel later
Edit: Did it, and it was so much easier than lifting the bed. Took about 2 hours total.
Thank you!!! I know know why I didn't even think of this but makes so much sense the bed liner will go right back over it. This make me so much less stressed about the project. For real who ever you are thank you lol
@@Redfiregtag I hope it works well for you. I used the ribs on the bed floor to get an accurate reading of where to cut side to side. Front to back I used the front of the bed for that measurement. Good luck.
@@FRANKBURNSONEany chance you have pictures or measurements to share? I'm going to be doing this this weekend.
Sorry, it's been 20 or so years since I did that. Just take some careful measurements and you should be fine.@@bigmike7801
Great video. I watched this before a buddy and I replaced the fuel pump on my truck. Everything went so smoothly despite a brief thunder storm. The hardest part of this was that two of the main bolts holding the bed down were rusted and seized. We spent a good bit time just trying to find a breaker bar haha. All in all we did this job in just a couple of hours. Thanks for the tutorial.
Great Video, we were able to put a new fuel pump in our 97 F150 and got her back up and running in one evening on the street.
This is far the best way to change your fuel pump. It only takes two people to move the bed. It did the whole jump under an hour. Now I could probably do it in a half hour. I just used a hand held 18volt impact wrench.The hardest thing was reconnecting up the license plate bulbs
Mine came all together when I bought my fuel pump just had to remove the old one and replace the whole unit with the new one. It was much simpler.
Great job! It took me all day to get the bed liner off and the 6 bolts. Winter de-icer in Pa. Broke a t-50 socket and bent another, had to torch the nuts and cut one off. Yours looked so easy. Have to do rockers and cab corners and will replace the fuel pump while the bed is off. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for posting this video. I replaced my fuel pump today after watching this...I saved myself 500 bucks by doing it my self
Saved $600 and did it in less than an hour. Thank you so much!!!
This Videos deserves an award 🥇 best video on how to remove the bed for Fuel pump change saved me 250$ thank you
Your video was very helpful! Got it replaced in about 2 hours, dang ol rhino liner was coated over bed bolts and was the hardest task on to complete. Thanks
Good video, I just replaced a fuel pump on a 01 ranger 4x4 today. removed the bed also. might want to disconnect the battery and clean off around the fuel pump before removing any bolts.
2005 F-150 my fuel gauge is not working what can I do to troubleshoot show me a video
Most excellent video. Worked perfectly on my 2000 F-150 extended cab. Did the whole thing myself with the help of a tractor to lift the bed. Saved hundreds of dollars. Thanks!
Best video I’ve seen so far regarding f150 1997-2003 fuel pump
I recently had my fuel pump replaced 2000 f150 at the Ford dealership. They did not remove the bed. The had the tank out and new one in in about 1.5 hours. So removing the Bed seems like making a lot more work. It would be nice to have an access panel in the bed.
Key words- at the dealer.
When you drop a tank yourself you will have a much different outlook on the matter.
you have no idea how hard it is to drop that tank
I watched 3 videos of "mechanics" taking the tank off from underneath. Shade tree stuff. I saw a great deal of struggle and grief. Then I saw your video. I think angels sang. This is definitely the better way of getting to the tank. I can breath now. I'll cheat, pay the money and simply install the entire assembly, Thanks for the info!!
Michael Hall I tried for 3 days to try and take the bed off my 2000 f150 and the bolts wouldn’t come out and broke 8 t-50’s went under the truck 2 bolts and the tank is out did the pump in 35 minutes so this way is “shade tree stuff”
@@domumpierre5022 I agree. Most of us know how enjoyable it is to remove bed bolts on a 20 year old truck.
If you don't mind working on your back for a few minutes or you have access to a lift, removing the tank from underneath the truck is by far easiest. Try removing a bed that's full of stuff while on the side of a road by yourself. With basic hand tools plus a fuel line disconnect tool, it can be done by yourself in less than an hour. I'm doing one now but have the luxury of not being in a hurry so I removed the tank in my driveway in about 15 minutes and I'll finish the job tomorrow in about as much time.
@@schrankm I sprayed Sea Foam Deep Creep around those bolt heads and let it soak down into the threads overnight before I even tried to pull the bolts - they all came out with minimal struggle the next day.
Thanks for video! Just did this last night. Ended up going ahead and removing the bed like you guys did. Was so much easier in my opinion to do it that way than fooling with trying to wrestle my hands up and on top of the take. Had 1 stubborn bed bolt to deal with but beyond that was really straight forward. Thanks again!
And suggesting a complete fuel pump assembly. It doesn't cost much more and it already is ready to go.
Great video, my father in law helped me buy my first truck and I've been very proud of it it's been down about a month now but tomorrow I'll have her running again. Thank you
This video was great - other than I twisted a T50 in half on one of the seized bolts and had to cut it off (we'll replace soon i promise!) then go get a new T50 socket. Didn't have a impact driver so I was using a breaker bar - if you do this lie I did you really need to make sure and clean the lower half of the bolt and hit it with some oil before you back them out. Thanks APDTV for helping me save a lot of cash on this repair!!
Here is a link to the pump we used in this video and links to the truck bed bolts:
Fuel Pump: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M4R3NS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B008M4R3NS&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=EHIPS3BFUZMTQ45J
Truck Bed Bolts Set Of 8: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFF2ATK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EFF2ATK&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=LDL66UXNEY4RWXQM
Truck Bed Bolts Set Of 6: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q7G54RA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00Q7G54RA&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=4V7MCX5KDRRT4FMW
Thanks for posting this. We had a animal chew through the fuel line right by the fuel pump. This made fixing much easier.
Thanks for the video. I had to replace the pump on my dad's truck, and this made things a lot easier. Thanks for taking the time to help us out.
The bed bolts ARE NOT Torx T50. They are Torx PLUS TP50 or T50P, You MAY get by using a Torx T50, or you may totally strip your T50 tool and the bolt as well, especially if the bolts are rusted. If you do, you will have fun (ironically) getting them out. Also you should have a hose that goes from the rear end to the bed that needs to be disconnected as well. This is a vent hose for the rear end. If it is disconnected or broken and is not reconnected or replaced, it will let dirt and dust get into your rear end and cause damage,
yes all excellent comments, we are tool crazy and have several sets of different torx drivers and the torx plus is slightly more square and frankly easier to use but the regular torx drivers can be used in torx plus except for higher torque needs, and yes if trying to apply a good amount of torque, then the proper tool should certainly used.
Very good instruction!! My oem pump finally went bad yesterday after 238,000 miles! Do you recommend changing the entire unit with sending unit? Or do think just a pump replacement will do? Nonetheless I will try this method prior to dropping tank...seems easier!
Thank you!!!!
Thank you sir. Video help me get my truck running again a few things were a little different but I have a 2002 f-150 lol.
thank you for showing the bed removal. Im putting a better bed on so ill go ahead and put a new pump on since i will have it off
BEST AND CLEAREST VIDEO I'VE EVER SEEN.. GREAT JOB, AND THANKS A MILLION😂
Thank you so much for posting this. That was so helpful and well made.
I have a long bed extended cab.And mine has 8 bolts.Also a small bracket by the wheel well looked like it needed unbolted. The video has been helpful to me. thank you for posting.
If you truck has stopped for a long time like this get some fuel cans and filters for coffee makers and paint filters that are shaped like a cone stick the coffee filter inside and use a hand pump to filter the gas before refilling the tank making sure to suck out all the old fuel and inspect for any kind of drops a breakdown of the sealer inside the tank before reinstalling in a fuel pump it will save your but in the long run
had to do my fuel pump. forget dropping the tank. watched this video and had it done in 2 hrs.
bought the whole pumpassembly for 160.00
awesome glad it helped, thank for watching and commenting!
thanks brother, from venezuelan..
Thank you. Much love from Californa!
I have tool boxes on both sides and a bed liner...it’s removable, but knowing the rust on it, opting for down instead of up. Wow...it looks easy on a typical truck.
You actually leave the wires loose.. If you zip tie them tight against the metal they might chafe through the wire insulation and ground out.
Thank you sir you made it very simple.
this is an awesome video. I was worried about the removal of the gas tank. removing the bed is easier that what I thought. I can do this. just kinda hard to find someone to help me lift the bed off the truck.
Magnificent job. Salute.
Good info. I dropped the tank on my 2000 and it was a real pain. You need tiny monkey hands to reach up in there and disconnect everything. It was very difficult to get the tool in position to release the fuel lines. I am now changing the fuel pump on my 2001. I had to cut two of the bolts (ground off the bolt heads) because one would not back out and another had the torx head stripped out. The fuel pump was $45 on Amazon and the bolts actually cost more. Still, it isn't too bad of a job once you get the bed loose. I used the loader on my tractor to move the bed. You can also use an engine hoist, call some buddies or just jack it up enough to give you some room to work.
Great video, inspired me to remove my bed on my 01 f150 supercrew, replaced fuel pump.as you outlined in video. Still had to lower my tank w a crew cab but it also allowed me to address frame rail rust. Bosch pump works great.
Great video, but where did you learn to solder, and safety glasses are a MUST!
Mr nitty picky
You can pick up a set of the aluminum quick disconnects tools for removing the fuel lines at Harbor Freight for really cheap and they do work do not buy the plastic ones
mr. Hoole yeah we have used both and both work fine, we have used the plastic ones probably the most especially on ac jobs
JUST SO EVERYONE IS AWARE, this method does NOT work on SuperCrew vehicles (5.5ft Flareside Bed). You have to drop the tank to get to it. I found this out after I removed the bed
well that sucks. thanks for the heads up
So is the pump under the extended cab? I need to change mine out, its starting to act up.
On an extended cab, you can remove the bed to do it. It is under the left front side of the bed. On the 4 door SuperCrew, you have to drop the tank
Thanks for the reply, I got the truck in the driveway and rolled up under it.... looks like it can be done! Now I have to figure how to remove the bed by myself... maybe build a hoist system or use a tree...and a hoist. I DO NOT want to mess with removing all those connections, I have limited movement abilities. LOL, it might cost me $200 in wood 4X4's, but I think i could build a frame capable of holding up a short bed.
Do you know if it works for the SuperCab?
This video is the best and helped alot thanks for the video
This does not work for SuperCrew 2001 F-150. After pulling the bed, the pump was under the cab. Though it was helpful to get to the hoses and connections at the rear of the tank..
Drue M thanks for the info I was in the process of taking my bed off tomorrow
Awesome video, this helped a lot.
You forgot to mention removing the axle vent tube which is also usually clipped to the bed back behind the rear axle. Also, my 2003 truck had plastic clips at the fuel pump, instead of the spring clips. Thanks for the video otherwise, it made things a lot easier!
I can't be the only one to notice the bed bolts are not as old as the truck....
Right. They pretend that these bolts just come out with ease on a 20 year old truck.
Just a heads up for anyone with an F150 Supercrew. Removing the bed doesn't work.I found out the hard way.After wasting my time removing the bed,just to find out I still had to drop the tank.Because the Supercrew has a bigger cab and the pump is actually under the back left passenger floorboard.
Very helpful knowledge, I watched a lot of videos on removing fuel pumps but no one said to cut the wires at different lengths, thank you very much>
Thanks for the tutorial! My brother-in-law has a lowered F150 and my big a$$ ain't crawling under that.
Excellent video, thanks for the info!
Excellent video , Thanks
Only thing missing is the differential vent rubber hose connected to underside of bed. You need to remove that hose to move bed and then reconnect it when bed is back.
nice video,would have liked a little more detail about removing the gas lines from the pump as i have different size gas line on my 1996 E150 but i can't complain for the price.thanks
Sure, the fuel lines are quick disconnects and are very similar to the ac line connections, First you pop off the metal safety clips, then a special tool exists that is not expensive and designed for both AC and fuel lines, Here is a link to the tool on Amazon: amzn.to/2h5hf1O or amzn.to/2zdM50z You can see us remove the lines with the tool at 5:05 of the video. Also the 2 different size lines make it impossible to reconnect it wrong.
FYI you soldered the connections in the tank which is good but you soldered copper wire to aluminum wire which will react and cause the connection to corrode immediately. You will be doing this job again within a year. Always use crip connectors on dissimilar metals.
2 bolts and a couple of those clamps, quick connect fuel line one electrical to drop the tank .
Does the fuel fill neck come off with the bed, or does it stay attached to the tank. I didn't see you disconnect it (you just did the hose clamp), and didn't see it on the tank either after you pulled it off. Though I may have missed it. Thanks
At 2:40 you can see the filler neck get unbolted from the bed, and the hose clamp that was loosened is also a mounting point for the neck, once those two things are done, the neck just drops down and stays attached to the tank as the bed comes off. if you look carefully right at 5:03 you can see it still sitting there above the left rear wheel.
Thanks.
Thanks for the video, but on trucks with step side bed you need to remove the bumper first, it's the only way to lift the bed,
The thing I noticed is the hose clamps used on the fuel pump. IF this truck is FI then those are the wrong hose clamps to use; you have to use the FI hose clams.
Thank you for your excellent detailed video... much appreciated.
awesome video buddy thank youuuuuuuuuuu
fuel pump swap but with extra steps. side note. with these cabs and how they hug the bed, be very careful lifting the bed to clear the bumper. i wouldnt be surprised if these guys put a ding in the cab. pull the 4 nuts and drop the bumper too.
Remember if you live in a rut a couple days before soak everything down and some kind of oil spray and then get yourself a compressor and blow all the dirt off before you take the top of that tank apart. There’s gonna be rust particles mud dirt salt you gotta get rid of all that and then while you got the bed off, make sure that you do some rust Fix stuff under you know you got the bed off you Mazel fix everything while you’re there
It should also be noted that this does not apply to trucks that are a super crew, crew cab, four door, etc.
This is coming from someone that just spent the time to take the bed of his truck only to discover that the fuel pump is on top of the portion of the tank that is under the back seat of the cab.
Did you loosen those bolts before the video? Looks to easy...lol
I saw a comment it does not work for supercrew cab, how about for super cab? Great vid btw
Sal Armlock so this is not the by the book method on any model, we usually have to access the situation once we ha e the specific truck in our bay, if anyone else can verify if this can or cannot be done on a super crew and or super cab models, that would be great!
Someone should post a video on the different size cabs.. i still have no clue what my f150 is
Thanks for video just fixed fuel pump
Take the tailgate off, lightens the bed a lot.
What about the spare tire? Does it attach' to the frame, or the bottom of the bed ??? Would that help' lighten' the load ???
@@jamesrichardson771 spare attaches to the frame
@@allanszast7579 Thanks man'
Actually, after seeing the video, I'm planning to just pull out the gas tank to replace fuel pump assembly. I'm not convinced that yanking out the bed is any easier. It looks like I would have approximately the same amount of work, but at least the gas tank (empty) is a lot lighter than a full bodied truck bed.
Great video! I'm curious though why the gasket where the flange of the fuel pump assembly sits on top of the tank wasn't replaced, or was it just missed being mentioned and shown in the video? Also, wouldn't cleaning the area on top of and around the fuel pump opening on the fuel tank be wise to prevent debris from falling into the fuel tank? Sorry if I sound like I'm nit-picking (I'm not). :-/
you know honestly this video was so long ago that I cant remember, It is certainly good to clean anything that has a possibility of dropping into the tank, unfortunately I cannot answer about that gasket as I cannot remember.
With the help of your video, I tackled the fuel pump module replacement kit and fuel filter today. Since I live in So Cal, thankfully I didn't experience any rusty bed mount bolts like people in road-salted areas might. I only had myself and a friend to lift the bed off, so I cheated and used some 1/4" plywood as supports and rested the back end of the bed on the rear bumper, and the front area of both wheel wells rested perfectly on top of the rear tires, providing me ample room to complete the task. Again, thanks for the detailed video!
GREAT IDEA, THANKS!!
General type question here. I'm pretty new to all this, but why so much metric hardware on an American made truck?
Jon Patterson metric is much easier and in the manufacturing world it is an absolute must, only the USA still uses standard SAE measurements but the rest of the world is using metric
Thank you!
This does not apply to an F150 5.4 2001 crewcab. I removed my bed and discovered that the fuel pump is actually beneath the cab on that model.
Big oof
Should probably mention this DOES NOT WORK with a supercrew cab.
Brandon Kaempfe we were not super sure on that answer as we get it often, we also would like to confirm which exact years and what years can this be done on super cab models also, no repair manual mentions this method so as professionals who usually have to follow a factory repair manual, we rely on many do it yourself customers to help answer on specific vehicles we have not been able to confirm on, we actually decide once we have the vehicle in our shop and after some diagnosing has been done.
I sure hope you didn't just slide the heat shrink over those soldered joints that we saw. Those were soldered really poorly and not completely at all.
Do you also clean the fuel pump with water for safety before applying heat with those tools?
Exactly. Bad soldering skills for sure.
Is heatshrink' fuel' proof ?? 🤔
Is the bed removal for a fuel pump change an option on a 2002 F150 Lariat 4x4, Crew Cab, shirt box?
Great video thanks
How much does it cost to replace the two gas pumps in California bro?
very good video - do you know if this works on 1999 super crew? - I wasn't sure if this puts the gas tank under the cab. If any one knows please let me know, thanks.
I changed the fuel pump, put the bed on top and now my truck starts up perfectly but has no power at all. Could barely drive it home. Any clues what’s wrong? Sounds like it might be missing.
If the only problem going into this was the fuel pump, then check fuel pressure before and after the fuel filter, a clogged fuel filter or bad water pump can cause that if the fuel pressure is low after the filter. If the fuel pressure is good, then some other issue most likely exists.
They forgot to mention the gasket replacement once installing a new fuel pump and it didn't look like they installed one on this one😅
WARNING !!! : If you zip tie the electrical wires directly to the metal, over time, you WILL produce an electrical short inside the gas tank.
The gas will keep it cool during the shorting process.
My quick connectors were rotten here in the salt and rust zone. Im just looking for a part i don't know the name of mines a long bed. And its badly rusted up steel support under the bed and is what holds the end of the tailbed up near the wheel wells im looking for that part its bolted to the frame and up to the under side of the tailbed each side has it the thick rust has ate up those supports i wouldn't trust loading nothing really heavy towards the tailgate how the supports look where it bolts to the frame underneath its just so ate up and thickness of the steel support is gone
Do you really think it would bankrupt Ford or other manufacturers to install an access plate so a person could get to the pump? Compared to all the other useless cap they put on today's cars - I'd gladly pay to have a plate installed to get to the pump.
Yes, I realize the fuel pumps rarely go out, but image how much easier it would be to remove a small plate in the bed or trunk rather than all the time and expense of dropping the tank or bed? And of course most people can't do this work themselves.
I did a fuel pump in my 2001 Ranger by tilting the bed. Did it by myself, EZ-PEASY! Took my time and about 2 hours. I'll do it the same way on my F150 if I ever have to.
Thanks for the vid! I was wondering if others did the bed method. SO MUCH easier and you're not getting a ton of dirt and crap in your face. It also gives you an opportunity to inspect and/or repair things under there. Especially those of you that live in our rust-belt.
super good video yhanks
I have the quick disconnect tool for the fuel lines on my 2001 however it does not have that it has some kind of strange clips to push in the design of the fuel pump is totally different there are no screws it locks in place by tapping a ring over the bent up metal on the top of the gas tank no screws at all hold it in place so what do I do? I'm sure I'll have it done long before I get a reply but you should think of mentioning it
Makes me want to get rid of my crewcab
Daniel Hinkle nah
What about the old gas in the tank??
I need to change the float its stuck. Is it connected to the fuel pump module?
if I'm transferring the whole unit to a new tank do I have to still take the quick disconnect off? i dont have anything to remove the bed and im working on the ground. I dropped the tank cuz it has a small hole in it. I also don't have the tools or the money right now to get the tools for the quick disconnect either. it's on a 97
Jake Haehnlein you could try that and see, at first I thought no because of th fuel pump lock ring but this year and model uses the 6 bolts, so if just replacing the electric pump only like we did, might be possible with your method
My friend wants his bed off his 99 f150 so he gave it to me because he didn't know how and i learned in high school but we're on the west coast and the bottom of the truck is covered in rust. but because he took it to the beach and drove it through the saltwater for fun (no undercoating, that was a stupid idea). so include driver-induced rusting too
Well done
Great Video !
Hi, will the bed removal for the 1999 f150 also be similar for my 2001 f150 Lariat supercrew? I would assume so. Intermittant fuel pump pressure issues (have gauge) today no pressure, relays are clicking, I suspect pump finally died. I will test for pwer at pump of course.
Thanks
Doug
Even if the wires short out for the pump isn’t going to catch your truck of fire unless you’re bone dry with gas vapors.
Cold solder joint......