This case is being opened from the wrong side, remove the front shaft yoke and input shaftbopen it from the other side and you won't lose parts like the oil tube etc
Great video ! Snap rings and lock rings are two different animals requiring two different pliers. Snap rings have holes. Lock ring s have sharp points. Learned that recently .Again great video and a lot of help to me.
Jim, I'm working on a Jeep Wagoneer 82 that has been unused for 15 years. I changed the differentials oil and the volume and the overall look was not so bad, however, when changing the transfer case oil, the volume was very small, very dark and thick. I want to ask you what you would recommend to make “a flush”, before putting new oil. And I understand that from now on I will do oil changes, for a while, more frequently looking for the best lubrication quality inside the box. Thank for the advice.
Oh man you remind me of me lol On my WJ I was supposed to replace a lifter. I open the valve cover look around inspecting things you know I went deeper and deeper I end up removing both heads. Did pretty good job
THANK-YOU For these detailed NP247 videos... my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited was making "drive train" noise and I started with the bearings, half shafts, rebuild front differential, replaced front drive shaft.... all of that helped but there's still noise.... the transfer case is the last option so I'm tackling it this weekend...... THANKS!!!! :-) (PS - I'd prefer your video as it's the right T-Case and there's NO cuss words.....
@@TheJoe703 same here :), did you solve this? I have drive train noise and replaced already almost all. Sound is in the front side when 4lo is activated and tight turns.
@@DL-by8el old comment but.....The 242 allows you to ether be in 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive where as the 247 decides when you should be in 4 wheel drive, hope I helped.
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L with the Quadra-Drive system with a bad transfer case. Was wanting to know if and what the difference in the T-case from an 00 to an 02 with 4.7L and Quadra-Drive is? I went to 2 different recycle yards and was told the T-Case from a 02 4.7L w/Quadra-Drive will NOT fit My 2000??
Look at the numbers stamped on the front of the T-case or on the placard. They should tell you the model number from New Process. You want a 247 J (J stands for standard jeep)
The only difference between a quadra-trac and a quadra-drive Jeep is the quadra-drive Jeeps will have limited slip front and rear differentials, up until I think 2005 when they discontinued the front limited slip differential. Other than that the transfer cases are both a NV247 transfer case. If you pull one from a 4.7L V8 Jeep it'll be the same input and output shaft, if you pull one from a 4.0L I6 Jeep you'll find the input and output shafts are different, you can swap the shafts by tearing the case apart, but if you want ease of swappage, pull one from a 4.7L V8. The internals in the quadra-trac and quadra-drive transfer cases are the same, the difference is in the front and rear differentials nothing to do with the transfer case.
Very good detailed descriptive video. ........Very helpful for the DIY mechanic.......It seems that the root cause of the problem was for excessive use of silicon sealer by the previous assemble which blocked some lubrication also possible poor assemble of the pick up pipe allowing it to fall away and get crushes in the gear and chain movements......
I noticed I had one wheel peel during a rain. Turns out my 247 has a hole in it and I bought it with a dry case. Patched the hole and filled it, hopes are nil at this point. Luckily, I have a 242 to put in it.
Good evening how are you. I WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN GET A SPARE PARTS KIT FOR NP247 FOR JEEP 4X4 GRAN CHEROKEE MODEL 1999 AND HOW MUCH IT COST. OR IF YOU HAVE ANY STORE OR REFACTIONARY. THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION
The "a" in the bearing is Augmented. From what I've heard over the years with manufacturer supply bearings, the main number is measurement but Chrysler wanted it a higher quality metal. Thus, longevity may be a concern with generics. They may not be designed with the same tolerance. Pay for the Mopar P/N
Sounds like a transmission issue. The transfer case is just gears that transfer power from the transmission to the front and rear wheels. Best case it could be a transmission shift linkage issue, but probably something going bad in the transmission.
I have a jeep Grand Cherokee 1995 limited ZJ I think a 44 or a 42 re tranny. When I start the car I'll put it in Reverse and it'll stall. I'll put it down to neutral and it'll go forward. Drive it'll go forward the same with 1st and 2nd. I'll go back up to neutral and it'll be in neutral I'll slow down and try reverse and it'll brake . But that's all it'll do
Buenas tardes como esta usted. QUISIERA SABER SI SE PUEDE CONSEGUIR UN KIT DE REFACCIONES DE NP247 PARA JEEP 4X4 GRAN CHEROKEE MODELO 1999 Y CUANTO CUESTA. O SI TIENE ALGUNA TIENDA O REFACCIONARIA. GRACIAS POR SU ATENCION.
I agree they are different in their designs * and not physically interchangeable, but they both provide more/variable power to the front wheels as the amount of slip between the front and rear wheels increases. * The VC is sealed with the silicone inside and the PC is open with the transfer case fluid going through its clutch plates. The PC requires the special fluid for its clutch plates (important). Since the VC is sealed the transfer case fluid has no impact on it, thus not special (typically just the same as the transmission fluid).
You can successfully replace the 6207a bearing with an ordinary but branded bearing. nothing disturbing is happening, the construction is identical. as for me, the usual marketing procedure
Don't try to "safe" in parts! If rebuilding this kind of transfer case, always use a complete rebuild kit. Maybe from RockAuto or any other source you can trust. Make sure you get a 2 or 3-year guaranty with your parts. DON'T use SKF bearings in any way. SKF gives only a 90-day or 3k miles guaranty! ON my rebuild rear axel (DANA 44) the SKF wheel bearing and SKF pinion shaft bearing failed after 4k miles. Also, be careful with the needle bearings. Keep all the staff around real clean. All the way down.... a great video for all DIYs!
Most of those bearings you show on here that are having issues should be replaced, all of them. Once goes, they all will go around the same time especially if it's related to debris in the oil since it will get into every bearing. There are transfer case rebuild kits or bearing kits to replace them all, gaskets, new c clips, seals etc. and priced way cheaper than buying individually. The "Viscus" drum also should be replaced since you are at this stage as they only last about 100,000 miles depending on past use and weather or not the previous vehicle had all 4 tires exactly the same over it's life. The oil burnt smell is an indication the clutches and plates inside are worn. Timken bearings or USA made bearings are best for the $$.
You are correct that a rebuild kit and new Viscus Coupler would be the way to go, but in this case it comes down to money. I do a lot of things for my own cars, and for friends who don't have a lot of cash. Most people watching TH-cam fall into these categories. If you are doing work at a shop for customers you need to do the right thing, but with free labor and a tight budget you can get by with cutting a few corners. A new Viscus Coupler would cost around $300 (used)/$550 (new) and I did the entire "rebuild" for less than $250. The kid is still driving it now almost 2 years later. I do mention the bearing/rebuild kits near the end of the video.
@@jimdandy6472 first thing that goes, according to resources, is the viscus clutches. Lots of vehicles will not have exactly the same tires on all 4 corners which works the clutches to death plus, some have driveshafts that aren't balanced/straight which does the same. Bearings are next most often to fail. Word is, these typically last about 120,000 miles.
I am going to rebuild it just like this video and give a confirmation of whether or not I had to Re-Rebuild it. Parts take too dang long and this one costs $350 on Amazon. At that rate, I might as well just buy a full rebuilt T-case. If on inspection the part is good, no need to replace it. I also have to believe that if there was anything wrong with it, the rear drive line would show issues. Since I removed the front drive line without any further ado, I'm gonna risk it and report back. Thank you @Jim Dandy for helping those young people and all of us old poor folk out with this here video. Very informative.
Yes, and you can get a standard 6207 at your local bearing supply store or auto parts store for about the same cost. The question is how important is the "a" on the end of the Factory/Dealer part (6207a)? I think the typical 6207 is fine, but you need to make that decision for yourself. My local bearing supplier basically would not sell me the standard 6207 because they had called the manufacturer and got the spiel about how the 6207a was a custom build for the manufacturer.
You are the fucking best, dude. Good work. I've got a 99 Laredo as well with some serious noise when the back wheels slip. I'm guessing the chain is worn out in my tcase as I've got about 220,000 miles of Michigan roads on it. Can wait to tackle this project myself now that you've provided such a detailed breakdown. Appreciate ya
Check out other sites for a complete rebuild kit or other stores online for jeep stuff. @1:09:28 you show one bearing for $50! I just rebuilt an np231 with all new bearings and seals and chain for $112
I had some trouble getting it to go back on, but some wiggling fixed that. Assuming you have the snap ring off, there is really no trick. There is probable a burr, rough spot, slightly seized or something keeping it from just sliding off. Some love taps with a dead blow hammer may be needed. Good Luck.
@@jimdandy6472 after replacing the chain I still have the same noise so I'm going with my coupling is garbage. I tried pretty hard to get it off within my comfort range which was 1000% more effort than it took you
The gear ration is listed below the part serial number on the placard/tag that is screwed next to the NP model number that is stamped on the front of the T-Case. This one in the video is clearly a 247
You would be a good high school shop teacher back in the day.
The more I watch thsi video the better it gets. I'm going tobe rebuilding my 247 and this is going to help a lot.
This case is being opened from the wrong side, remove the front shaft yoke and input shaftbopen it from the other side and you won't lose parts like the oil tube etc
Great video ! Snap rings and lock rings are two different animals requiring two different pliers. Snap rings have holes. Lock ring s have sharp points. Learned that recently .Again great video and a lot of help to me.
Hello, thank you for your channel and your work on transfer cases appreciate it very much , tj
Jim, I'm working on a Jeep Wagoneer 82 that has been
unused for 15 years. I changed the differentials oil and the volume and the overall
look was not so bad, however, when changing the transfer case oil, the volume was
very small, very dark and thick. I want to ask you what you would recommend to make
“a flush”, before putting new oil. And I understand that from now on I will do oil
changes, for a while, more frequently looking
for the best lubrication quality inside the box. Thank for the advice.
Oh man you remind me of me lol
On my WJ I was supposed to replace a lifter. I open the valve cover look around inspecting things you know I went deeper and deeper I end up removing both heads. Did pretty good job
THANK-YOU For these detailed NP247 videos... my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited was making "drive train" noise and I started with the bearings, half shafts, rebuild front differential, replaced front drive shaft.... all of that helped but there's still noise.... the transfer case is the last option so I'm tackling it this weekend...... THANKS!!!! :-) (PS - I'd prefer your video as it's the right T-Case and there's NO cuss words.....
Jerry Craig, did you get rid of the "drive train" noise? I think I have the same promblem.
@@TheJoe703 same here :), did you solve this? I have drive train noise and replaced already almost all. Sound is in the front side when 4lo is activated and tight turns.
Will appreciate your comments :) if you fixed it
@@jesusrperezd I did, it was the drive shaft
@@TheJoe703 u joints?
I can't wait to swap out my 247 and install a 242J for my 4.0!
What makes a 242 better than a 247?
@@DL-by8el old comment but.....The 242 allows you to ether be in 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive where as the 247 decides when you should be in 4 wheel drive, hope I helped.
@@brandonthomas8781 thanks
Thank you Brandon good so I suppose people want the 247 for offroading. Like the comment a freckle bigger!
Watching other videos of a 247 rebuild, I see that the VariLock unit is the correct color.
Not my transfer case, but very close. Great tear down and confident builder!
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L with the Quadra-Drive system with a bad transfer case. Was wanting to know if and what the difference in the T-case from an 00 to an 02 with 4.7L and Quadra-Drive is? I went to 2 different recycle yards and was told the T-Case from a 02 4.7L w/Quadra-Drive will NOT fit My 2000??
Look at the numbers stamped on the front of the T-case or on the placard. They should tell you the model number from New Process. You want a 247 J (J stands for standard jeep)
The only difference between a quadra-trac and a quadra-drive Jeep is the quadra-drive Jeeps will have limited slip front and rear differentials, up until I think 2005 when they discontinued the front limited slip differential.
Other than that the transfer cases are both a NV247 transfer case. If you pull one from a 4.7L V8 Jeep it'll be the same input and output shaft, if you pull one from a 4.0L I6 Jeep you'll find the input and output shafts are different, you can swap the shafts by tearing the case apart, but if you want ease of swappage, pull one from a 4.7L V8. The internals in the quadra-trac and quadra-drive transfer cases are the same, the difference is in the front and rear differentials nothing to do with the transfer case.
The 4.7 and the 4.0 np 247 have different size input shaft. Look out for that at junk yard.
Correct sir, I learned that the hard way!
I have a 5.9 with 244d that I have to replace any pointers when searching
@@jaylong1181 what vehicle and year do you have?
Very good detailed descriptive video. ........Very helpful for the DIY mechanic.......It seems that the root cause of the problem was for excessive use of silicon sealer by the previous assemble which blocked some lubrication also possible poor assemble of the pick up pipe allowing it to fall away and get crushes in the gear and chain movements......
What an awesome video. I bought the entire seal and bearings kit on Ebay for 130
I noticed I had one wheel peel during a rain. Turns out my 247 has a hole in it and I bought it with a dry case. Patched the hole and filled it, hopes are nil at this point. Luckily, I have a 242 to put in it.
Jim do you know what size speedei sleeve i would need for my front shaft seal on my 247j transfer case ?? or where i can find out
Good evening how are you. I WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN GET A SPARE PARTS KIT FOR NP247 FOR JEEP 4X4 GRAN CHEROKEE MODEL 1999 AND HOW MUCH IT COST. OR IF YOU HAVE ANY STORE OR REFACTIONARY. THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION
Very good video and very useful info.
You helped me a lot. Thanks you 🙏
The "a" in the bearing is Augmented. From what I've heard over the years with manufacturer supply bearings, the main number is measurement but Chrysler wanted it a higher quality metal. Thus, longevity may be a concern with generics. They may not be designed with the same tolerance. Pay for the Mopar P/N
Very empressive, do Yu own the vehicle??
I am about to try and rebuild mine. It makes a horrible roaring noise.
What is it when your 2002 Jeep Cherokee Laredo want back up all the time?
Sounds like a transmission issue. The transfer case is just gears that transfer power from the transmission to the front and rear wheels. Best case it could be a transmission shift linkage issue, but probably something going bad in the transmission.
I search for google patent of NP247.
Then I found this is called
SYSTEM OF CONTROLLING TORQUE TRANSFER IN A MOTOR
VEHICLE AND RELATED METHOD
So would any of this make my Reverse die? I'm contemplating whether I should just get another transmission or not
The transfer case should not impact only reverse, that sounds like a transmission thing.
I have a jeep Grand Cherokee 1995 limited ZJ I think a 44 or a 42 re tranny. When I start the car I'll put it in Reverse and it'll stall. I'll put it down to neutral and it'll go forward. Drive it'll go forward the same with 1st and 2nd. I'll go back up to neutral and it'll be in neutral I'll slow down and try reverse and it'll brake . But that's all it'll do
Buenas tardes como esta usted. QUISIERA SABER SI SE PUEDE CONSEGUIR UN KIT DE REFACCIONES DE NP247 PARA JEEP 4X4 GRAN CHEROKEE MODELO 1999 Y CUANTO CUESTA. O SI TIENE ALGUNA TIENDA O REFACCIONARIA. GRACIAS POR SU ATENCION.
Hola arturo, donde te ubicas? resolviste?
There is no silicone in the NV247 progressive coupler, it's nothing similar to the NP249 viscous coupler.
I agree they are different in their designs * and not physically interchangeable, but they both provide more/variable power to the front wheels as the amount of slip between the front and rear wheels increases.
* The VC is sealed with the silicone inside and the PC is open with the transfer case fluid going through its clutch plates. The PC requires the special fluid for its clutch plates (important). Since the VC is sealed the transfer case fluid has no impact on it, thus not special (typically just the same as the transmission fluid).
You can successfully replace the 6207a bearing with an ordinary but branded bearing. nothing disturbing is happening, the construction is identical. as for me, the usual marketing procedure
Don't try to "safe" in parts! If rebuilding this kind of transfer case, always use a complete rebuild kit. Maybe from RockAuto or any other source you can trust. Make sure you get a 2 or 3-year guaranty with your parts. DON'T use SKF bearings in any way. SKF gives only a 90-day or 3k miles guaranty! ON my rebuild rear axel (DANA 44) the SKF wheel bearing and SKF pinion shaft bearing failed after 4k miles. Also, be careful with the needle bearings. Keep all the staff around real clean. All the way down.... a great video for all DIYs!
Most of those bearings you show on here that are having issues should be replaced, all of them. Once goes, they all will go around the same time especially if it's related to debris in the oil since it will get into every bearing. There are transfer case rebuild kits or bearing kits to replace them all, gaskets, new c clips, seals etc. and priced way cheaper than buying individually. The "Viscus" drum also should be replaced since you are at this stage as they only last about 100,000 miles depending on past use and weather or not the previous vehicle had all 4 tires exactly the same over it's life. The oil burnt smell is an indication the clutches and plates inside are worn. Timken bearings or USA made bearings are best for the $$.
You are correct that a rebuild kit and new Viscus Coupler would be the way to go, but in this case it comes down to money. I do a lot of things for my own cars, and for friends who don't have a lot of cash. Most people watching TH-cam fall into these categories. If you are doing work at a shop for customers you need to do the right thing, but with free labor and a tight budget you can get by with cutting a few corners. A new Viscus Coupler would cost around $300 (used)/$550 (new) and I did the entire "rebuild" for less than $250. The kid is still driving it now almost 2 years later. I do mention the bearing/rebuild kits near the end of the video.
@@jimdandy6472 first thing that goes, according to resources, is the viscus clutches. Lots of vehicles will not have exactly the same tires on all 4 corners which works the clutches to death plus, some have driveshafts that aren't balanced/straight which does the same. Bearings are next most often to fail. Word is, these typically last about 120,000 miles.
I am going to rebuild it just like this video and give a confirmation of whether or not I had to Re-Rebuild it. Parts take too dang long and this one costs $350 on Amazon. At that rate, I might as well just buy a full rebuilt T-case. If on inspection the part is good, no need to replace it. I also have to believe that if there was anything wrong with it, the rear drive line would show issues. Since I removed the front drive line without any further ado, I'm gonna risk it and report back. Thank you @Jim Dandy for helping those young people and all of us old poor folk out with this here video. Very informative.
Great video learned a lot...thanks
I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee and when i put it in drive or reverse i hear like a rubbing and knocking noise what do you think it could be
Did you figure it out?
Cobra Transmission sells the 6207 front drive shaft bearing for NP247 for $13
Yes, and you can get a standard 6207 at your local bearing supply store or auto parts store for about the same cost. The question is how important is the "a" on the end of the Factory/Dealer part (6207a)? I think the typical 6207 is fine, but you need to make that decision for yourself. My local bearing supplier basically would not sell me the standard 6207 because they had called the manufacturer and got the spiel about how the 6207a was a custom build for the manufacturer.
Cobra Transmission sells the 6207 front drive shaft bearing for $13
You are the fucking best, dude. Good work. I've got a 99 Laredo as well with some serious noise when the back wheels slip. I'm guessing the chain is worn out in my tcase as I've got about 220,000 miles of Michigan roads on it. Can wait to tackle this project myself now that you've provided such a detailed breakdown. Appreciate ya
Use Mopar nv247 fluid only!!
Check out other sites for a complete rebuild kit or other stores online for jeep stuff. @1:09:28 you show one bearing for $50! I just rebuilt an np231 with all new bearings and seals and chain for $112
NP 231 is smaller and older I believe . . . thats why its cheaper. A 247 rebuild kit with chain will run you $180 or so at rock auto.
what kind of rebuild is this
Hi, I have a wj grand cherokee 2.7 crd diesel laredo year 2004 I need an engine oil pump can you help me to buy one from your junk yard ??
The 2.7 CRD engine is a Mercedes OM647, used on sprinters as well. Good luck on the search!
@@zeon212atgmailcom really???? Are they any cheaper than sprinter motors??? Everywhere wants big bucks and my van isnt worth the cost.
@@milleniumann28 Yes, 4 real..... i cant guarantee you'll find any cheaper parts. but it widens your search
When she lies and says you're her first. 31:53
this is a full time 4wd transfer case
I cannot remove my viscous coupling for the life of me. What is the trick?????
I had some trouble getting it to go back on, but some wiggling fixed that. Assuming you have the snap ring off, there is really no trick. There is probable a burr, rough spot, slightly seized or something keeping it from just sliding off. Some love taps with a dead blow hammer may be needed. Good Luck.
@@jimdandy6472 after replacing the chain I still have the same noise so I'm going with my coupling is garbage. I tried pretty hard to get it off within my comfort range which was 1000% more effort than it took you
@@dollar0613 hey friend, did you change the Viscous coupler? did you have a clunk clunk clunk sound when you drive and make tight turns?
its a np231 it has 2.47 gear ratio look at the top of the tag
Not sure which tag you are looking at. The Blue & Silver tag has a part No. - R2098872AD. That is a NP247J.
The gear ration is listed below the part serial number on the placard/tag that is screwed next to the NP model number that is stamped on the front of the T-Case. This one in the video is clearly a 247
double clicking on a link makes me cringe.
Vende tendra 1 para durango citadel 2012es modelo mp3023 y cuanto al cp 52988