What a great video ! I've just spend one day repairing my rudder following your instructions :-) I had one rudder that was badly repaired, so I filled the holes with fiber, then drill new holes correctly positioned and re-assemble the whole. It is now working perfectly and the the repaired rudder who was making an angle of about 15 degrees is now perfectly vertical... I do not "battle against" anymore... What a pleasure ! Thank you, Stéphane, from France (Vendée)
Just picked up a Hobie Cat 16 from the neighbor of a friend that I was doing an A/C check for. He was disassembling all of the fittings and was going to scrap it. I HATE to see that happen-- offered scrap price. Has a small hole in a hull and he mentioned that he had trouble struggling with sluggish steering because he couldn't get the rudders to fully reset. Have a very good friend who does glass work -- he is very enthused about the project and started the initial clean up phase of hull repair within 15 minutes of getting it to the cottage and unloaded. I will be disassembling the rudder release mechanisms when I return to the lake cottage. The Hobie will be like a Cobra compared to the Catalina and MacGregor! Even came with the diaper! Thank you!
Precious tips and tricks ! Everything is in here, clearly exposed... Just in a short video, all we need for the service of this very important of the boat. Thanks !!
Hi Joe, managed to repair the broken rudder! We are now in the process of replacing the cam parts. Your video was really useful in explaining how the cam works and also in giving us the confidence to take the thing apart and put it back together again! So many thanks for that. Keep up the good work.
having just returned from sailing one of your boats i can vouch that the rudders were SWEET ! Just picked my heading , trimed the main and she sailed hands off for miniyutes if needed. Now messing with mine to try and emuate that :>
@@JoyriderTV I've got a whole set of them I work on firearms with. They are usually fairly long also and have a nipple on the driving end that keeps you from peening the pin.
During my rebuild, my delrin screws were corroded into place (used boat that I had just purchased). I had completely stripped the screw slots trying to get them out, so I heated up a square-shanked screwdriver and melted it into one of the screws. I placed the casting into a vise, grabbed onto the screwdriver shank with a wrench, and gave it the beans . . . and split the rudder casting apart. I got some rebuilt castings off of Ebay for $25 a piece.
Hi Joseph. Here I am again.Only to inform you and improve your knowledge that after working a lot without any success (hammer, WD40, lubricants, etc...), I 've removed the Pins from rudders very easily in only 3 minutes. How ? Using a 2 Claw Bearing Puller of only some 15 Euro . Now the rudders are perfect . Thank you for your support anyway. Cheers Frank
Thanks for your last comment. I will never call an engineer as I have alway repaired everything by myself looking, speaking or capturing knowledge from who knows more than me (like you). I will solve the issue sooner or later and keep you informed. Cheers
Thanks a lot Joe; very well explained. looking forward to using your advice and fine tuning my Cat next week-end. And enjoying sailing in Maputo Bay, Mozambique.
Really useful video. Love all your vids tbh. Ive just bought my first sailboat based on your videos, gave me the confidence to give it a go. It's a hobie 16 (year 2000). It came with new rudder pins and collars and the seller said I need to drill out to make them fit, thus watching this video. It's the only part of being a newbie that worries me: why does it need to be drilled out? I guess I'm asking why you cant buy pins and/or collars that fit? Any experese on thus would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, the drilling out is because after a time the holes in the casting become elongated which means if you want them to be perfect you'll need to drill and bush. Good luck!
@@JoyriderTV Did it. My god, that metal gets hot while drilling 🔥 The most difficult part was finding a reasonable priced 12mm long bit and then a drill with a big enough chuck 😆 Thanks for your videos, they are really helpful.
Love all your videos. Very informative. I recently acquired a Tiger, and unfortunately not a large sailing community around me, but have learned so much from the videos. I haven’t seen it addressed, but would like to upgrade to the EPO3 rudders. So, do the Hobie 16 rudders fit on the Tiger? 16 rudders are the only ones I can find.
The EPO3 blades are only for the 16. The standard Hobie 'white knight' blades are very good for the tiger - if you are ordering, be sure to get the right shape - I think they changed in 2007
Hi Joe, thanks for this video on rudders. I need some clarification on the exact movement to be done on the coupling bar. On the 16 I'm using, when I manually raise the rudders I get both the cams in the down position and then I have to rearm them manually. If I let the rudders pop up by themselves on the sand, I instead get the cams automatically up. Do you have a tutorial on how to move the coupling bar when you want to manually raise the rudders without having troubles with the cams position? Thanks! 😉
Joseph Bennett Thanks!! ... now I understand why it is so hard to pull up the bar manually in the one I'm using, and why I need a "strange" strong push to set the rudders in the down position too....too much tension in the screw! Hopefully I'll buy my own 16 Race next year, I'm getting tons of great hints from you and your channel! 👍🤙
I attempted the service and learned a hard lesson ~ never do this service with out spare parts. The derlin screw was stuck in the casting. I had to drill it out and order a new screw. If the screw is stuck do not do service until you have a spare.
@@JoyriderTV My hobie dragoon was stolen right off the seawall a couple days ago. They left the mast behind lol. Do you know of any gps trackers that could be installed on a hobie? And where would be the best place to put them? I was thinking inside the hull.
@@Jordan-lz6hd oh no, that's terrible. I'm so sorry to hear this. My initial though was a gps tracker on the mast - but if that can be left that's not going to work. Maybe in the hull - or possibly in a small box riveted to the front beam - I don't know much about the trackers though, would it have to be charged?
I know this is an older video, but is there any way to remove forward/backward slop when the h16 has the non-adjustable upper casting? Is the only way to drill holes in the casting itself?
Unfortunately not - when you have the fixed bar that locates into the cam - the only way would be to change the location of that bar in the casting - which would be very difficult.
Hi Joe....very nice videos. I have a hobbie 14 and when sailing the rudder is very hard. Is it because of possible wear or because both fins are not perfectly aligned?
Most likely to be because the rudders are not locking down fully. When your boat is on the beach put the back of the boat up (maybe on trolley) lock rudders down and pull them back to see if they move. If you tune in to the Q+A on wednesday - or watch later, i'll give a demo of what i mean.
Hello Joseph, On my hobie 16 the bushes fits only on the top and the bottom holes of the castings, the middle of the castings is more tight, it fits the aluminium axles. My question is, did i have to drill the middle of the castings, to put bushes everywere or 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom is enought ? Thanks
If the pin is reasonably tight in the middle parts of the stock then absolutely no need to drill it out. If you don't have play in your system then I think that you're all good.
hi Joe, any advise please on repairing a rudder? a piece has broken off the rear top through the hol. thec break is clean and i feel confident to drill a couple of holes and then screw it back together but am wondering what to use to glue the screws in place nd he two pieces of the rudder together...epoxy or wht?
Ideally 10cm for the lower and 6cm for the top, 2mm thick - if i'm stuck for materials i cut them out of old detergent bottles and then double the thickness if needed.
ive looked for those shims at my local marine stores, cant find anything suitable. ? also i have some wobble in my rudders that i thinkm is due to the hole through the rudder being enlarged over the years. im using 5/16" bolts and am thinking of, 1. filling the hole and redrilling with a 5/16" bit or, 2. drilling the hole and using a nylon type bushing on the bolt the same diameter as the new hole. ? thanks!
If you can find stainless steel inserts that would go through the newly drilled blade that would be the best. I think that nylon wouldn't laswt very long.
@@JoyriderTV thanks joe. actually the material is very tuff! but im now thinking the play in the rudders is because the width of the lower casting is considerably wider than the thickness of the rudder. so i think ill try to find a proper spacer/washer on each side of the rudder.
I've checked out the video and it's ok, but my problem is different: the pin is completely stuck inside the holes. Perhaps because of a long time without removing it (my mistake). Some guys told me to cut it, but I do not want for risk of damaging the hull. My idea is to remove it by an extractor but I do not know if it exists. Thank you .Cheers
That happens quite a lot on castings that aren't regularly serviced or greased. It's a bit of a procedure to fix as you have to drill out the old screw. The details are in this video: th-cam.com/video/BWuC9utw6CQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Joe, ive been working on the rudder for my Hobie 16. I've replaced the cam, spring, and screw. One side I've got working well but one side I cant seem to get to consistently lock-in. I've tried matching the position of the rudder cam bracket inside the rudder stock and playing with spring tention but the cam keeps regularly binding on the cam bracket. I'm a little at wit's end, any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
It could be that your cam stop plate is too far forward - try backing it up a few mm and see if the rudder then locks down correctly. The rudder stocks have small differences from the manufacture meaning that the settings may not be exactly the same on both rudders to achieve the same results. Let me know if that makes any difference.
@@JoyriderTV someone also replied that the shaft which the plunger sits it could have been enlarged thus cause the plunger to bind. It that also a possibility?
@@elishaburrows4241 If it's possible for the cam to be pushed into the down position, i'd say less likely. Maybe tune in tomorrow for the Q+A (at 1730 Greek time) and we can take a look.
all that I can recommend is to give it a good spraying with WD40 or similar, leave for an hour and then get another pin to hit it down with (or a custom made tool like in this video) Also if you get enough pin sticking out so that you can get a good hold of it with some grips and then use the rudder stock as a lever - pushing it back and forth to loosen it. Sometimes it takes some serious encouragement hitting down with another pin. That's all I have, I hope that you succeed!
Michael Gregory Eaton Just saw your question, you can wrap electrical tape around the bushes to make them fit tighter in the castings - that's the only solutions to this problem except for getting something customer made in brass, It does work well though.
Joseph Bennett Thank you. I took the entire rudder assembly off the boat and discovered that there are "top" and "bottom" bushings, the top ones are smaller, so they will fit in either hole, but if they're in the wrong hole, they allow movement. with some playing with it, I figured this out, they're about a million times tighter :)
might need to screw that big plastic screw in farther so it'll hold better. you can reach it with a long flathead screwdriver without removing anything. I just backed mine out yesterday because the rudders were very hard to kick up when beaching
What a great video !
I've just spend one day repairing my rudder following your instructions :-)
I had one rudder that was badly repaired, so I filled the holes with fiber, then drill new holes correctly positioned and re-assemble the whole.
It is now working perfectly and the the repaired rudder who was making an angle of about 15 degrees is now perfectly vertical... I do not "battle against" anymore... What a pleasure !
Thank you,
Stéphane, from France (Vendée)
Just picked up a Hobie Cat 16 from the neighbor of a friend that I was doing an A/C check for. He was disassembling all of the fittings and was going to scrap it.
I HATE to see that happen-- offered scrap price. Has a small hole in a hull and he mentioned that he had trouble struggling with sluggish steering because he couldn't get the rudders to fully reset.
Have a very good friend who does glass work -- he is very enthused about the project and started the initial clean up phase of hull repair within 15 minutes of getting it to the cottage and unloaded.
I will be disassembling the rudder release mechanisms when I return to the lake cottage.
The Hobie will be like a Cobra compared to the Catalina and MacGregor! Even came with the diaper!
Thank you!
Excellent, great job bringing a 16 back to life.
I'm glad that this helps.
Thanks for the video ... full of important information!
Precious tips and tricks ! Everything is in here, clearly exposed... Just in a short video, all we need for the service of this very important of the boat. Thanks !!
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos Joe...this one is very handy.
you're welcome
a great resource for any maintenance / staff maintenance training on Hobie rudders! Thanks.
love your special tool,as well as the music
Hi Joe, managed to repair the broken rudder! We are now in the process of replacing the cam parts. Your video was really useful in explaining how the cam works and also in giving us the confidence to take the thing apart and put it back together again! So many thanks for that. Keep up the good work.
Glad it helped, that should make a big difference to your sailing.
having just returned from sailing one of your boats i can vouch that the rudders were SWEET !
Just picked my heading , trimed the main and she sailed hands off for miniyutes if needed.
Now messing with mine to try and emuate that :>
Joe, they make a tool called a roll pin punch that allows roll pins to be driven with ease
Thanks for the tip, i'll check it out.
@@JoyriderTV I've got a whole set of them I work on firearms with. They are usually fairly long also and have a nipple on the driving end that keeps you from peening the pin.
Thank you for a very clear video. The close up shots are great along with the instructions.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video! Even though I don't have a Hobie, I spied a couple of ideas for my Tornado 👍
I'm glad that it helped!
During my rebuild, my delrin screws were corroded into place (used boat that I had just purchased). I had completely stripped the screw slots trying to get them out, so I heated up a square-shanked screwdriver and melted it into one of the screws. I placed the casting into a vise, grabbed onto the screwdriver shank with a wrench, and gave it the beans . . . and split the rudder casting apart. I got some rebuilt castings off of Ebay for $25 a piece.
Crikey.
That's the first time of hearing that happening.
25 for new casting is a very good price. I hope that you're back on the water now.
@@JoyriderTV Experience is learning from your own mistakes. Wisdom is learning from other peoples' mistakes. I have a whole bunch of experience.
Hi Joseph. Here I am again.Only to inform you and improve your knowledge that after working a lot without any success (hammer, WD40, lubricants, etc...), I 've removed the Pins from rudders very easily in only 3 minutes. How ? Using a 2 Claw Bearing Puller of only some 15 Euro . Now the rudders are perfect . Thank you for your support anyway. Cheers Frank
Hi Frank, this is some solid gold info - i'm going to get one for sure (i'll make a video on it!) as hitting the pins is never an ideal solution.
Hi again Frank, I've had a look and it seems that there are a world of bearing pullers out there - could you send me a link to the one that you have,
Hi Joseph, here is the link for buying/looking the tool.
Origlam Two ganascia cuscinetto... www.amazon.it/dp/B0777J23WH?ref=yo_pop_ma_share
I know what I'm going to be doing next weekend now!
Thanks for your last comment. I will never call an engineer as I have alway repaired everything by myself looking, speaking or capturing knowledge from who knows more than me (like you). I will solve the issue sooner or later and keep you informed. Cheers
fine vid Joseph!!! very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for an excellent educational video. Outstanding.
That was incredibly well done. Thank you.
Thanks a lot Joe; very well explained. looking forward to using your advice and fine tuning my Cat next week-end. And enjoying sailing in Maputo Bay, Mozambique.
Thanks for sharing! My HC 16 is getting better..
Excelent! Thank you, Joseph!
My pleasure!
excellent video. thanks
Thanks for a great lesson
Glad you liked it!
great tuto, did you have some tips on how to unlock/unscrew hard to move bolts ?
If it is the plastic screw - th-cam.com/video/BWuC9utw6CQ/w-d-xo.html
@@JoyriderTV yes there is the plastic one but also the big one on top to adjust the angle/lock position
I've a request for you. Have you ever published a video on how to remove the pin from the rudder without cutting it of an Hobie 16 ? Thank you
Hi Frank, if it's not in this video, check out this one at 4.40 we start looking at the rudders. Cheers
You should always grease before you poke it up the hole. Respect.
I love your videos! Learned a lot from everything I have question my ruder is in lock done stuck do you know how I can get out of the lock position?
Really useful video. Love all your vids tbh.
Ive just bought my first sailboat based on your videos, gave me the confidence to give it a go. It's a hobie 16 (year 2000).
It came with new rudder pins and collars and the seller said I need to drill out to make them fit, thus watching this video. It's the only part of being a newbie that worries me: why does it need to be drilled out? I guess I'm asking why you cant buy pins and/or collars that fit?
Any experese on thus would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, the drilling out is because after a time the holes in the casting become elongated which means if you want them to be perfect you'll need to drill and bush.
Good luck!
@@JoyriderTV Did it. My god, that metal gets hot while drilling 🔥
The most difficult part was finding a reasonable priced 12mm long bit and then a drill with a big enough chuck 😆
Thanks for your videos, they are really helpful.
Love all your videos. Very informative. I recently acquired a Tiger, and unfortunately not a large sailing community around me, but have learned so much from the videos. I haven’t seen it addressed, but would like to upgrade to the EPO3 rudders. So, do the Hobie 16 rudders fit on the Tiger? 16 rudders are the only ones I can find.
The EPO3 blades are only for the 16. The standard Hobie 'white knight' blades are very good for the tiger - if you are ordering, be sure to get the right shape - I think they changed in 2007
Hi Joe, thanks for this video on rudders. I need some clarification on the exact movement to be done on the coupling bar. On the 16 I'm using, when I manually raise the rudders I get both the cams in the down position and then I have to rearm them manually. If I let the rudders pop up by themselves on the sand, I instead get the cams automatically up. Do you have a tutorial on how to move the coupling bar when you want to manually raise the rudders without having troubles with the cams position? Thanks! 😉
For the cams to pop up when you pull them up manually, you need less tension in the screw that holds the spring.
Possibly around 10 - 12kgs
Joseph Bennett Thanks!! ... now I understand why it is so hard to pull up the bar manually in the one I'm using, and why I need a "strange" strong push to set the rudders in the down position too....too much tension in the screw! Hopefully I'll buy my own 16 Race next year, I'm getting tons of great hints from you and your channel! 👍🤙
Good vid, probably should have included setting the tie.
What do you mean by the tie?
Thanks Joe ! you´re great !
I attempted the service and learned a hard lesson ~ never do this service with out spare parts. The derlin screw was stuck in the casting. I had to drill it out and order a new screw. If the screw is stuck do not do service until you have a spare.
That's a great tip!
I overlooked that. Your boat will still be sailable with stick screws but once you've drilled them......
@@JoyriderTV My hobie dragoon was stolen right off the seawall a couple days ago. They left the mast behind lol. Do you know of any gps trackers that could be installed on a hobie? And where would be the best place to put them? I was thinking inside the hull.
@@Jordan-lz6hd oh no, that's terrible. I'm so sorry to hear this.
My initial though was a gps tracker on the mast - but if that can be left that's not going to work.
Maybe in the hull - or possibly in a small box riveted to the front beam - I don't know much about the trackers though, would it have to be charged?
I know this is an older video, but is there any way to remove forward/backward slop when the h16 has the non-adjustable upper casting? Is the only way to drill holes in the casting itself?
Unfortunately not - when you have the fixed bar that locates into the cam - the only way would be to change the location of that bar in the casting - which would be very difficult.
Just wondering if anyone's ever had any experiencing with reinforcing or repairs to rudder pin holes in the tops of the hulls?
What are the lines at the hinge joint between the crossbar and the rudder arms? My 1977 16 doesn't have those. Thx!
They are for the different style of connection,. on older boats they are not necessary
Great Job!!
did you have some tips for the screw of the cam stop plate also ?
What is your issue with it?
@@JoyriderTV the screw is totally locked and I can't do adjustement anymore
Is this the same for Hobie 18s ?? Great video
Yes, exactly.
well explained man :) I see you use a torque wrench to tie the bolts
how many kg max you are tuning it ?
I just use regular spanners and tighten the bolts so that when lifted, the rudder blade will still fall down under it's own weight.
good :)
Groovy intro
Hi Joe....very nice videos. I have a hobbie 14 and when sailing the rudder is very hard. Is it because of possible wear or because both fins are not perfectly aligned?
Most likely to be because the rudders are not locking down fully.
When your boat is on the beach put the back of the boat up (maybe on trolley) lock rudders down and pull them back to see if they move.
If you tune in to the Q+A on wednesday - or watch later, i'll give a demo of what i mean.
@@JoyriderTV thanks a lot Joe....great channel and speed of light answer
Hello Joseph,
On my hobie 16 the bushes fits only on the top and the bottom holes of the castings, the middle of the castings is more tight, it fits the aluminium axles.
My question is, did i have to drill the middle of the castings, to put bushes everywere or 1 on the top and 1 on the bottom is enought ?
Thanks
If the pin is reasonably tight in the middle parts of the stock then absolutely no need to drill it out. If you don't have play in your system then I think that you're all good.
Hi! I've one question. How tight I have to tighten the screw in old system? The screw, which is conect arms and tiller crossbar?
Nice question, I'll talk about it in the Q+A on Friday
@@JoyriderTV Ok! So I'm waiting for your answer!
hi Joe, any advise please on repairing a rudder? a piece has broken off the rear top through the hol. thec break is clean and i feel confident to drill a couple of holes and then screw it back together but am wondering what to use to glue the screws in place nd he two pieces of the rudder together...epoxy or wht?
Unfortunately this kind of thing is not my field of expertise.
I would have thought that there's specialists on YT in that department.
Mil gracias!
What size are the ptfe discs you used as shims?
Ideally 10cm for the lower and 6cm for the top, 2mm thick - if i'm stuck for materials i cut them out of old detergent bottles and then double the thickness if needed.
ive looked for those shims at my local marine stores, cant find anything suitable. ? also i have some wobble in my rudders that i thinkm is due to the hole through the rudder being enlarged over the years. im using 5/16" bolts and am thinking of, 1. filling the hole and redrilling with a 5/16" bit or, 2. drilling the hole and using a nylon type bushing on the bolt the same diameter as the new hole. ? thanks!
If you can find stainless steel inserts that would go through the newly drilled blade that would be the best. I think that nylon wouldn't laswt very long.
@@JoyriderTV thanks joe. actually the material is very tuff! but im now thinking the play in the rudders is because the width of the lower casting is considerably wider than the thickness of the rudder. so i think ill try to find a proper spacer/washer on each side of the rudder.
Hi Joe. What did you make the shims out of
Plastic detergent containers are very good - you just need to find something the right thickness depending on how much space you have.
I've checked out the video and it's ok, but my problem is different: the pin is completely stuck inside the holes. Perhaps because of a long time without removing it (my mistake). Some guys told me to cut it, but I do not want for risk of damaging the hull. My idea is to remove it by an extractor but I do not know if it exists. Thank you .Cheers
time to recruit an engineer!
At 1:24 the plastic screw is seized on my Hobie and can’t get it out. Do you have any advice?
That happens quite a lot on castings that aren't regularly serviced or greased. It's a bit of a procedure to fix as you have to drill out the old screw. The details are in this video: th-cam.com/video/BWuC9utw6CQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Joe, ive been working on the rudder for my Hobie 16. I've replaced the cam, spring, and screw. One side I've got working well but one side I cant seem to get to consistently lock-in. I've tried matching the position of the rudder cam bracket inside the rudder stock and playing with spring tention but the cam keeps regularly binding on the cam bracket. I'm a little at wit's end, any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
It could be that your cam stop plate is too far forward - try backing it up a few mm and see if the rudder then locks down correctly.
The rudder stocks have small differences from the manufacture meaning that the settings may not be exactly the same on both rudders to achieve the same results.
Let me know if that makes any difference.
@@JoyriderTV someone also replied that the shaft which the plunger sits it could have been enlarged thus cause the plunger to bind. It that also a possibility?
@@elishaburrows4241 If it's possible for the cam to be pushed into the down position, i'd say less likely.
Maybe tune in tomorrow for the Q+A (at 1730 Greek time) and we can take a look.
What type of grease do you use?
Waterproof bearing grease
If the pin is blocked inside because of not removing for two years, how can I remove it ? Thanks
all that I can recommend is to give it a good spraying with WD40 or similar, leave for an hour and then get another pin to hit it down with (or a custom made tool like in this video) Also if you get enough pin sticking out so that you can get a good hold of it with some grips and then use the rudder stock as a lever - pushing it back and forth to loosen it. Sometimes it takes some serious encouragement hitting down with another pin. That's all I have, I hope that you succeed!
What kind of grease are you using?
anything that i happen to have. The best seems to be waterproof bearing grease.
Peachy 😊 7:25
Ha! Yes...
To do with the bushes. My castings are already very loose with bushings installed... How do I fix that?
new bushings, check that the hole in the casting is the proper diameter
Michael Gregory Eaton Just saw your question, you can wrap electrical tape around the bushes to make them fit tighter in the castings - that's the only solutions to this problem except for getting something customer made in brass,
It does work well though.
Joseph Bennett Thank you. I took the entire rudder assembly off the boat and discovered that there are "top" and "bottom" bushings, the top ones are smaller, so they will fit in either hole, but if they're in the wrong hole, they allow movement. with some playing with it, I figured this out, they're about a million times tighter :)
I swear Joe is a raver from way back.
reach for the lasers!!!!🕺
@JoyriderTV yeah safe bruv
Thank for You prompt answer but the PIN is blocked . I've put WD40 for hours and days but no results . Does it exist an extractor?
not as far as I know, sorry I can't suggest anything else.
One of my rudders do not stay up.
Really sensative and annoying.
you can send me pictures if you like and i'll see if I can see anything - totaljoyrider@icloud.com
might need to screw that big plastic screw in farther so it'll hold better. you can reach it with a long flathead screwdriver without removing anything. I just backed mine out yesterday because the rudders were very hard to kick up when beaching
Great video thank you but that loud horrible music has got to go!!
unfortunately i can't remove the music from existing videos. For the past 3 years or so i've stopped using music in the videos.
www.hexenmusical.de
(HC 17)
GRRREAT! GREEAAT! No chance on a regata against THIS rudder!!!