Hey all. Really appreciate your support. Please be aware of scammers throughout all TH-cam comments on my videos (and other creators for that matter). They pose as me and offer ‘free gifts’. I never offer anything for free like this or ask you to contact me. Sorry about this. I wish TH-cam could do more as it’s proper hard for me to keep on top of as I work alone. Cheers 🙏🏼
To be fare, most of us can spot these scammers a mile off now they’ve been around for so long now that we’re all getting to know the platter better than they do, there are still very a few that they manage to net of course so thanks for the heads up.
Curious if you have had any purchases that have been the opposite - ie. you have bought something expensive that you regretted or that wasn’t worthwhile?
A capable teacher teaches by his words. A competent teacher teaches by example. A compelling teacher teaches by his words, backed by his example. You are a capable, competent, compelling teacher, Mr. Turner!
For me, a UV filter is not for protection from impact as I have never dropped my camera. It's to save the front element from cleaning and accidentally scratching it while doing so.
It seems like they come in handy when there is just a slight drizzle out and you just want to get the drops off your lense. I've seen several photographers just wipe it before I caught on everyone was using a UV filter.
I understand the theory but 1/ you still have to clean the filter and 2/ you can scratch the hell out of your front element and it has NO EFFECT (almost never) on your photo! In fact, I go out of my way to buy scratched, scuffed, used lenses at BARGAIN prices from KEH and Adorama and MPB. I have several DECADES of experience with this but if you don't believe me... ask Tony Northrup th-cam.com/video/YcZkCnPs45s/w-d-xo.html
@@timd4524 I think TH-camrs miss the point of UV/Protector filters and talk about dropping the camera. After I checked the front element replacement price for my Canon lenses, I decided it's better to go with a good-quality filter.
@@sebastianberes Yeah, with UV filters (a necessity due to a lack of good lens coatings) in the past and clear filters (mostly B+W) at present, the front element of the lenses that I bought for over four decades are just like new. IMO, it is the best way to prevent micro-abrasion due to decades of cleaning.
I’m not going say I don’t use them but I’ve never really thought that buying a $1500-$3000 lens and then putting a $100 or less piece of glass in front of it made any sense. I do use them but only in places like a sandy environment with lots of wind or at the ocean if there is wind or with sand or sea spray that could harm the front element
I agree with every one except the remote release. When I need to take a group shot with me in it, I use my D7200. I don't use the timer or intervelometer because you've always got someone goofing off or not paying attention. With the remote, I can wait until everyone is ready, and then snap the picture. When I want to take a long exposure, I use my D850 with the remote cable. I liked to never have found where it attaches to the camera, but now that I have I use it alot instead of going through the menu and setting the delay, and then going back and taking it off. Just screw it in and I'm done. Excellent video by the way. Confirms what I've believed for years. Especially the UV/Clear filter. I stopped when I realized it was ever so slightly screwing up some of my favorite shots.
I disagree about the remote shutter release. I do a lot of seascape photography, and using 2 or 10 second delay is useless if trying to capture particular wave actions, especially if long exposures are involved. The remote release is essential to get the exact moment. I do agree that buying a “remote” release is a waste, because many (most?) cameras these days allow remote control from an app on your phone. I actually have a cheap cable release so I don’t have to mess around setting up Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connections.
Also true on a windy day when photographing closeups of wildflowers. You need to hit the shutter at that exact moment the wind stops. Two seconds later the flower may be bouncing around again.
Respectivefully disagree about remote. The Sony remote can either trigger shutter or change focus. The focus change makes it very easy to focus stack without touching the camera.
I find the remote shutter absolutely indispensable for bracketed panoramas. Sure lock-up exposure delay exists, but when you're taking 21 shots per pano (6 around + 1 up with 3 brackets) saving 1 or 2 seconds per shot to avoid mirror shock / vibration is super useful. Even more critical for exposure stacked HDRs because slight variations can destroy a photo.
You have some good points, like not buying “pre-set”. Having said that, a remote release, wired or wireless, is handy to have, 1. it allows the photographer to time the shutter release time more precisely. With in-camera delay release, like 2 seconds, could feel like eternity if one is shooting something that is stationary. 2. A remote control also allows the photographer to fire a camera (on tripod) that is set up higher than arm reach or any remote camera setup. Remote control is not only for reducing camera vibration.
2) I wanted to photograph some buildings in NYC, but there was a fence of about 3 feet and it wouldn't let me take a clean shot, (my lens was 82mm, and the holes in the fence were 2 inches). I put my camera on my monopod and raised it as high as it would go, so I could get over the fence, see my target through the Vari-Angle Touch Screen and with my remote shutter release I would focus and shoot.
Agreed with all except #7 I do a ton of seascapes so remote shutter is a life safer for me.. when you're standing in the water, waves crashing around you and you need to capture that exact moment and you'r shooting anywhere from 1/4 of a sec to 1 sec Delayed timer is definitely a no go.
Great video! The one for me that still makes sense is the remote shutter. I agree with your wireless point. I still use a wired one which was maybe $20 usd on Amazon. It also had a timer and intervelometor function. The main reason for me is the bulb function on the remote because the remote shutter has a lock and a timer.
I do a cost benefit analysis whenever I buy gear - hiking, camping, photography. Filters: I once dropped my camera climbing over a fallen tree. Had a lens hood, lens cap & polarizer on it. All three cracked. My camera broke so I could not mount a lens anymore. My lens survived and I still use it on my Z with the adapter. Presets: I only find them useful when doing a series to maintain the look over the whole thing. I am a firm believer in rent first. If it turns out you don't like/need it, you aren't out the money.
Henry, clear filters serve a huge purpose, not for impact so much, but rather to protect your very expensive coatings on your lenses. Much better to clean the filter on a regular basis than your very expensive lens. If you have ever had an expensive pair of sunglasses that you clean on a regular basis, you will notice that every time you clean them, you gradually break down the coatings. Also if one ever had an abrasive bit on land on the filter and you cleaned it without a blower, I think we can all agree that the scratch on the filter would be more accepted than the lens.
👍 I just stumbled across your video and watched it with a lot of pleasure. You are really a likable guy and I enjoyed your „flood of words“. I‘m looking forward now to binge watch all of your videos ☺️ Best greeting from Germany ✌️
Just to let you know Henry, your videos are being watched religiously by me. I think I speak for a ton of your follows as well. You are doing a great job. Keep being you, and the rest of us will live curiously thru your lens. Todd Whitmire
I agree with Sebastian about UV filters. They’re not for impact protection; they’re for spray and sand and such on wet windy days, and so forth. Of course you need to buy good ones, and replace them from time to time.
I agree with everyone who's been saying basically "Keep babbling on, Henry!" You're teaching and I love the way you get your points across. I use a wired remote release for focus stacking and close-ups just to make sure the shutter is tripped at the exact right moment. All other times I use a three-second delay. My feeling on UV filters is this: You pay top dollar for a lens that's as sharp as can be. Why put a $50 piece of glass on the front if you're not trying to optimize the image? Plus, there's a lot more that can break on a lens these days other than the front element if you drop it. I have a rider on my home insurance for my camera gear. Never had to use it yet but it gives a boost to the old peace of mind. Keep making these wonderful videos Henry!
Good stuff I enjoyed that, cheers 👍🏻. UV filters!! I have 2 x KASE magnetic MCUV filters, they obviously protect and double up as the magnet for stacking magnetic ND’s or Polariser, haven’t noticed any drop in image quality at all with these attached so win win for me. I also use Lee ND grads, top quality gear and I’d much prefer to get the shot as it happens plus I just love playing with filters 🤓😁.
👍👍👍and for the record...this video was NOT a total waste....the photo of the boathouse with the rolling hills in the background, was a success. So.....no it was not a total waste and I say....it's good to engage with your audience, and the more you have to say to newbie's, the better. I am quite sure they appreciate the sacrifice, one great shot vs many, you just made, for all of them. Thank you for this video. I appreciated it.
Hi Henry...am 75 disabled..cant walk on uneven ground..so I follow most of your videos to gain knowledge...I spend a lot of time in the Taurus mountains Turkey..on a monster quad bike beautiful part of the world.....gets me to places I can't hike to...and places most people will never see..oh..the uv filter.. I started with a kowa 35mm early 70s..the movie blow up got me going..my local camera club in kings lynn Norfolk.. I was told back then..don't waist your money on them..only thing you need in front of your lens is the subject ...keep going mate..
Thoroughly enjoyed your musings on this video, always great to see your pictures of course, but equally good to share in your experience, you worry too much
On the subject of UV filters - I use them not because I'm worried about dropping the lens onto the front filter. I'm worried about scratches to the front element that are not easily repaired. I was a working photojournalist for many years and continue to photograph sports. I've often been in situations where the environment was not controlled - windy, dusty, forest fires, etc. Lots of crap was being thrown up into the air and onto the front end of my lenses. Even on the side of a field of play, turf pebbles, grass bits, and the like are kicked up or get onto my gear when they are sat down on a field. I'd much rather scratch up a UV filter in those conditions, than the front element of my lens. A lens hood isn't going to help in those situations.
I use my remote shutter when photographing fireworks, that way I don't have to guess when the good ones are coming in advance, and I don't get a sore arm with camera in portrait mode holding the shutter button during 10 minute displays and risking bumping the camera. Learnt that one the hard way so appreciate my remote shutter in these situations.
I always enjoy you nattering away! You natter about very interesting stuff. In the past, I’ve bought everything on your list except the grad filter! Call me the Wally!
Couple of alternative considerations Henry : a) Grad filters are great when there is extreme movement in the composition, bracketing isn't great in those types of situation b) saving weight : switch to magnetics ! I sold off my squares and went with the Kase Wolverine Magnetics after reading numerous positive reviews, I absolutely adore them. And because they are so easy to use I'll pull them out and pop one on far more often than my lazy arse would usually do. The case with 7-8 filters fits in my trouser or jacket pocket and it literally takes me under 10 secs to be ready to shoot. The main reason for the switch was the weight and size saving though. My Benro 5 filter kit weighted 992g (+ case) whereas the Kase Wolverines weighs 265g inc. case. (I've kept all my hiking /camping weights in the Packing Pro app for the past 6-7 yrs so have the exact weights of everything). c) UV filters are contentious and polarising. Suffice to say that for me there are very few situations where I'll use them (hoods are far better protection) that's in sandy/dusty/saltwater environments. d) Absolutely with you on presets - biggest waste of money on the internet ! Every photo is different and will still need adjusting so just create your own and save it for further use. e) My remote, Pluto Trigger, cost me US$125 ! However it's capable of so much more than your standard remote wit settings for Stills,Timelapses, Startrails, HDR, Video, Sound trigger, Laser trigger, Lightning trigger, Proximity. Droplet. Shake. Smile, Motion and simplifies the process for most of them. Not for everyone but works for me ! For simple long exposures I still use the in-camera 5 secs self timer.
Using ND Grads in a long exposure is important for me. When using a 10 or 15 stop ND, having the grad in place allows greater control of any peaking or burning the sky. Running an exposure for many minutes has often helped by me using ND Grads. For normal single shots I don't really use them and will bracket if the scene needs it. Nothing wrong with buying ND Grads, just make sure you know what you want to do with them.....but that really applies to any kit, whether its lenses, bodies, flashes etc. We need to find our own journey and find our own personal styles to create the photos we want. If you dont know what you want to do you will probably not use the tools correctly.
Old Russian proverb… “Cheap Pays Twice” ;) The sheep poking its head out of the ferns is GREAT! I just purchased a new Manfrotto Tripod on Amazon to replace the cheap light one I had been using for years that no longer works correctly, just needed to bite the bullet and just do it! Also people need to read the manual that was provided with the camera to have more knowledge of how it really works (Learn the Bells & Whistles). Your doing a GREAT SERVICE Sir. Your not just talking to the glass on your camera. Your passion comes through and I like it a lot. Cheers mate - 🍻
In defence of remote shutters. If you get a decent one, it can have way more options than a build in one in your camera. Some have more control over exposure settings, variable interval times and multiple cycles than some cameras offer. Helpful with star trailing or the day-to-night type time lapses. Also if you're using older DSLRs, some don't even have build in option at all. Another example -skittish animals. You can set up your gear on tripod, leave some snacks nearby as bait, walk away and snap from the distance. And last, but not least -bulb mode. If you're doing super long exposures, self timer just won't do, and most cameras have 30sec limit without bulb. Good tips anyway. Thanks and keep it up.
Good advice Henry. First thing I did when buying filters was get them in the size for my biggest lens, then bought some step down rings for the smaller lenses. I do use a remote shutter release, but I didn't want to buy a wireless one, too expensive. I got a cheap corded one. What I use it for is taking pictures of fireworks, put camera in bulb mode and hold the button down on the remote when the rocket goes off and release it when the burst starts to fade. Works good for that, and that's about all I use it for. I was in the contract poultry business for 22 years and learned my lesson about buying cheap stuff. Buying cheap stuff almost always costs more in the long run than buying quality items. Always buy the best you can get, even if it costs a little more. Not buying by price, but by value, and the better value items always cost a little more than the cheapest priced item.
Great discussion. I agree with all you have said and gained my point of view after spending for things I did not need. BUT ... a remote IS NEEDED when your camera is on a tripod and timing counts ... for example capturing a wave breaking over a rock. Using a 2 second timer DOES NOT work in this case.
In terms of remote shutter, if you have a Canon you have the camera app. You can shoot, focus and set shutter speed, aperture and ISO there too. For free.
You can get decent, cheap waterproof/windproof clothing if you know where to go. I highly recommend RAF surplus goretex overtrousers which you can buy for as little as £10.
Being out and not taking any photos is better than any day not being out :) I agree with a lot on your list and agree it is wise to purchase as good as you can or save up before you buy, that also helps temper impulse buys (which I have been guilty of on a number of occasions). Keep waffling on Henry! We love it!
I agree with everything you've said I have a Lumix S1 and one Lens the 24 to 105mm and that's it, and only use the software built into Windows 11, (10 before that) I'm 63 so was a film user so still try to get things right first-time! You were not gabbing on and others are a lot worse x.
Another great video, I was there a few days ago, lovely quiet spot. Great views from where you parked as well, I parked there. Look forward to your videos each week 😊
Hi Henry, I see you now have 64k subscribers so you are clearly doing something right. I’m sure it is hard coming up with something every week, but there is no substitute for integrity and saying it how it is (for you at least). It has got you this far! I suspect many of us are on a similar journey with our photography so your ability to relate and vice versa is one of the keys. Cheers
Hi Henry, I'm originally from England but now live in Australia. Wonderful to watch you adventure and photograph the countryside of my youth. Keep it up!
Good shout about outdoor clothing. You do get what you pay for. The smart money, as usual is in the mid-range. But it can be night and day in terms of comfort and the most important thing of all, enjoying your time in the outdoors.
Great tips all around. One thing not on this list that I'm guessing we've all been through is trying to find the right camera bag/backpack for our gear. Ease of access to the body, lenses, and accessories varies significantly, as does comfort when wearing it. I've gone through several as my gear changed over the years, and as my preferences for certain features changed.
Lovely scenery and shots. I agree about the tripod. I often like to hike with just my camera on a sling strap and I've taken some great shots that way, but all the master pieces, I mean absolute best photos in my portfolio were taken using a tripod. One thing I think is a waste of money for landscape photography are battery grips. These are great if you're shooting wildlife or sports with a huge hulking lens, but for landscape they're more hindrance than help.
I find a remote release useful for seascape photography when having to time the shutter with a wave. Otherwise, the self-timer does the job perfectly well.
Exactly my thought. I guess a remote would be useful in any kind of photography if a certain event suddenly happens that your photo could benefit from, e.g. some birds flying into the scene of your epic landscape shot.
Filters are a very valuable instrument in photography. Not everyone has digital cameras and computors. I still use film I agree with you sentiments on clothing, get the best you can afford or yous what you have untill you know what you want or need.
Another use for a remote shutter release is If You do night photography with lightpainting. Then You usally want to light your subject from the side, and You ofte have to Walk quite a far Way away from the Camera in the dark. Then its really nice to be able to trigger the shutter remotely. However, many modern cameras today can be controlled with a smartphone.
For LF film photography, ND-grads are still essential. I agree on *wireless* remote shooting, but I constantly use a *wire* cable trigger. Same benefits of not touching camera, but you can capture the image at the very moment you want, and don't. have to guess what will happen in two seconds. For dSLR, use mirror-lock up or live view before pressing remote shutter. I use front filters on WA lenses (e.g. Zeiss 21) as the lens hood will not protect the large front element, while on others it is impossible (e.g., Canon TSE 17). Otherwise, completely agree on lens hood, but rather for photography reasons (reflection, micro contrast) with protection being an exaptation. I am always amazed at photographers not using a hood at all times. Pretty much a tripod junkie here (RRS), preaching to choir.
Use mirror up mode too ..helps with shutter shake Also use the screen in live view as that reduces camera shake I like your videos - you’re real and not up yourself
Lots of good advice, but I do use a remote wireless shutter a lot, although it’s probably quite niche - I shoot light-painted astro shots and use the wireless remote to allow me to move around in the field lighting up different parts of the foreground with a torch/light. I could just put the camera on a repeat interval timer, for 10 minutes, but this method with the remote just gives me much more control and results in fewer wasted shots. Also, each frame only has a single discreet light-painted area because i know when each frame is beginning and ending. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with your choices here - especially about good quality clothing!
The remote shutter is great when you're shooting something that requires timing, like waves crashing or animals moving. You don't have to worry about camera shake or the timer.
I came here to say just that. Specifically with regards to landscape photography I use it to capture the moment when the shadows of the clouds are in the right place, illuminating what I want illuminated and shading what I want shaded.
You are right. Older APN haven't any time lapse function, and require a remote system to trigger it , even with a wire, it doesn't matter. (Nikon D300s with a good MC-36 trigger wired system ). Fortunately, since that time, I purchased another camera... but sometimes use my old MC-36 that does a perfect job.
Take heart from the fact you give us a great deal of pleasure and inspiration. Talking about your thoughts is the best form of self help. Keep up the great work.
I like that you make sure every body knows up front that this is your opinion. I completely agree that dressing for the environment you'll be working in is not an area to cheap out in! Also, the cheap plastic "kit" tripods are not worth anything. Pay a little more and get a good tripod. I have a Manfrotto Element Traveler, and it works great...for me. Last thing is something I kinda disagree with. UV Filters for lens protection. I buy quality filters to protect the lens from rain, snow, salt, etc. As with any opinion, your mileage may vary! Thanks again for a great video!
I agree with a lot of this, but I still use UV filters to prevent grit from scratching the lens, or to keep off sea spray. I most cases I would use a timer for landscapes, but I'd use a remote trigger for seascapes or long exposures of traffic (or long exposures of anything that must start at certain conditions which are either random or beyond my control). Also GNDs are good if there's a lot of movement in the scene, such as having trees on the horizon and it's quite a windy day.
after like 15 years of casual photography, the only thing I don't agree is the UV/clear filter part. the protection is not for smashing or falling, but for actual weather sealing for those weather sealed lens like Canon L lens in their spec, and so fine dust/dirt/finger oil don't scratch the front elements, and modern front elements cost a ton to replace, it makes no sense for budget lens, but for more premium lens, a great clear filter like the B+W one is definitely worth it with minimal image impact, when taking night scene, just take it off
For post I use Affinity Photo which has presets. In many cases I have found that certain presets (in tone mapping), especially 'Detail' and 'Dramatic', greatly improve the image to the extent that I need do no more editing. In other examples the presets offer a great starting point, but can be improved with further editing. They also offer a quick way to show what results are achieved with different settings, even if you don't use them on actual photos. As regards remote shutter releases, I agree with others that they are useful for capturing specific instances such as waves. Also, as a DSLR user, they are useful when I use the mirror-up option, which is nearly all the time. Mirror-up removes a minor element of camera shake, but you have to click twice, first to move the mirror, second to take the shot. This can be done with the remote release, but not with the timer. This works well with bracketing where, for example, a 5x bracket, with mirror-up, requires 10 clicks.
Yeah, good suggestions. Agreed. That's funny about the tripods...I literally ended up w/ 4 or 5 crappy, flimsy ones (barely tripods, really), before I realized, oh, gotta just spend a tiny bit more. Made all the difference in the world.
For purchase number one, graduated filters, I made that purchase when I first started. When I was much younger, I used to ride a sport bike (Ninja 600), and I had a friend, who was a photographer, offered to take some shots of me on my bike. On several of the shots he used a graduated red filter to create a much redder sky than we actually had that evening. I really loved that effect and when I got started, I wanted to be able to duplicate that effect. It wasn't until after I started playing that I came to the same realization that Mr. Turner did in that the effect is easily obtained through post processing. However, another thing that I didn't consider when I wanted to duplicate that effect was that he was using real film. My 'photoshoot' was actually well before DSLRs even existed, so without some extraordinary 'post processing', he was forced to do the effect with a filter. It really never occurred to me that there may be a modern alternative, so I literally ordered a filter set with my kit purchase. As for the UV filter item, I used one for a long time for the exact reason you mentioned. But one day I removed it and realized that unless you spend the money for a really nice one, they can actually degrade your photos a touch. I came to the same conclusion as Mr. Turner did and realized that my lens hood did offer just about the same level of protection. For the sixth purchase, the remotes, I have never really needed one for landscape photography, but I also like to dabble in astrophotography, and for that environment, a remote is invaluable in my opinion. My first camera was a Canon xsi, and for that camera I bought a corded remote. I have since sold that kit and now I have a 90D. The fantastic thing about the 90D is that it is bluetooth capable, so my phone can become the best remote you'll ever use with your camera, as you can preview the shot, and even change settings. And, when taking photos like Milky Way shots where you'll be stacking 30+ images, having a remote is almost a must. Excellent video. Your list was spot on!
Shooting waves is a good use of a wireless shutter release. Set up the camera on the tripod with the right settings, then you can watch the sea taking shots on the moment. Timing waves with a 2s timer is tricky. Top video pal, all the best. 👍🏻
All good points which I agree with. About the remote shutters, most manufacturers have apps that will do that for free from your phone anyway, and you can change other settings via that rather than just a shutter button.
I use a remote when I take Nightscape photos, I can be lighting the foreground metres away from the camera. That is the only time, otherwise like you I do use shutter delay.
Great video Henry! I have a good use for my remote trigger... If I want to precisely time a longish exposure shot, for example if trying to photograph a wave as it goes out on a beach. Two second timer doesn't work for that. Plus my camera doesn't have a built in intervalometer. I would however advise using one with a wire; much cheaper.
I was going to say that (you beat me to it) but you don't need a £30 wireless remote you can get wired remotes that do the same for about £5 on the internet shopping sites.
whilst I would agree with you, I had a couple of occasions where I wanted a longer exposure, and the breeze did clank the controller about a bit. Also, I dunked a number of them in rivers by accident, killing them... this promoted me to purchase my remote one, which hasn't been dunked once thankfully!
@@christophersaul4993 😂😂😂😂 I am too, but so far so good and while it's in my hand I've found myself to be more careful. Of course, I did mindlessly stuff it into a pocket on a cold day, then had a frantic search everywhere thinking I had lost it... So it's not all rainbows and roses!!
I have never used or needed to use a lens hood but always use a good quality UV filter, especially after I dropped my 70-300 and destroyed the filter but saved the lens. I use a wired remote for exposures longer than 30 seconds to use the bulb setting or to control precisely when the shutter goes off although the 2 second delay is OK most of the time.
Remote Shutter - Most, if not all camera manufacturers now have a phone app that you can trigger the shutter. Many of these also have live view, setting aperture etc. as well as moving the focus point. Makes much more sense as most of us have smart phones!
Disagree. My remote shutter doesn’t need any batteries or apps and had never failed me in over 10 years. Plus some of us leave the phone in the car and go out taking images to get away from the phone
I'm with you with uv filters tho my reason for not using them is because sometimes they can cause slight refractions and ghosting or similar on the photos. They can protect the lens if you drop it, it happened to me back in... 1991 i think. Dropped the camera, filter broke, lens and camera were fine. My solution was not to buy more filters but to be more careful with my equipment. And it worked (except in feb 2018 when I dropped my G9 onto the pavement, but it had the lens hood on so it was fine :) As for remote releases, both my cameras have wifi so i just use the app and my smart phone. And when I've taken the snap I can then download it onto said phone and share it on insta. Or vero... ;) But seriously, the best advice you've given here is to buy the best that you can afford, and in my experience, the best is often not the most expensive.
I use a remote shutter release for long exposures ( over 30seconds) on Nikon DSLR. To avoid camera shake. It was only cheap mind you. I prefer this over cable as I don't keep having to access the camera ports. I could use smartphone app but then have to consider battery consumption for WiFi or Bluetooth.
Some great tips on purchases here. I’ve never bought a UV filter as putting a cheap bit of glass in front a a nice quality lens does not seem right , may as well not use nice lenses. Maybe I’m wrong ?
UV filters come in real handy when I'm out shooting Motocross, Enduro & Trials just for the simple reason they protect the front element from all the roost (mud & stones) sprayed up from the wheels of the bikes. That's literally the only reason I have a few of them. Lovely images again mate.
Instances when I would use a remote release "cable" or 'phone app. When things are moving in a scene and you need to take the photo at exactly the correct time so you cannot use a self timer. Examples would be crashing waves, birds flying in a scene or trees/grass/leaves moving in the wind and you have to wait for a lull.
When it comes right down to it, what is the difference between using some type of filter on site or using a preset in post? I find photography more enjoyable attempting to do everything on site. Sure a filter might cost a bunch of bucks, (quids to the people in England), but it should last a lifetime. I attempt to get it right on site and perfect it in post. When others might want to just get a shot, then use a preset, then perfect that. The difference is up to you.
4:07 "post processing" only applies and works for digital images. A typical B&W film has a dynamic range of more or less 5 fstops inbetween black and white. ND grads are a must. And being legacy and coming from film photography I try to get my image done in camera as much as I can.
Great video Henry ! The main reason I use my remote wireless shutter is if i'm putting myself in the composition. Some of the wireless shutters have several hundred ft range and can certainly be handy for that. Otherwise yeah, not much use for them when you can simply set a 2 sec shutter delay if you're worried about shaking the camera. I picked mine up for only $30 CDN (a cheapie off Amazon which works great) which is likely around 15-20 quid. Just thought as well once in a while I do a family portrait of my family with myself included and the wireless shutter is amazing for that since I'm not having to run back and forth from the camera and hope I make it in time lol !
Awesome video Henry. This is my very first comment on any of your videos. I personally believe everyone purchase the "toys" they like based on their preference, comfort zone and photography style. I am a HUGE fan of remove shutter. I have used the delay setting on my camera only to find out I am not in control of when the camera will take the image. Sun goes behind the clouds, wind blows, seagull flies in front of my composition and my camera is still counting one more second before the images is produced. Not me, I am a control freak. I have to be in charge of when that shutter is going off. I wait for the wind, the sun or the seagull to make the move and I hit that shutter at the exact moment I want without touching the camera. That is just me, anyone using 2 or 3 seconds delay and is happy doing so is perfectly ok and will makes no difference.
Thanks for the video. I would have liked to see that first shot with the two rocks upon which you set up included as foreground interest. It may not have worked but I would like to have seen it.
8:00 UV filters (high quality) protect your lenses from blowing sand and salt water when you are shooting beach or deserts. It is also much easier to wipe water drops off of a flat UV filter than it is to wipe water/rain from your lens element and possibly scratch your lens coatings.
The only reason to use a UV filter is when you’re shooting in a place where you have sand. This can protect your front element from getting sandblasted by wind and the sand.
Hi Henry another great waffling vlog Please dont change I recently started to buy Some 10stopND for my most used lenses when I realised like you said get step down rings !!! Also if you spend a lot of money on a lens with very good glass …don’t put a cheap UV filter on it it’s like getting a new TV and watching it through the window 😀
Another great clip, Henry. And don't be critical of yourself and what you have to say: it is *always* valuable. There's never been a clip where I thought "too much." It's also wonderful to hear the word "daft" - it takes me back to my childhood in Manchester. If I had to distill-down your message it would be to two things: quality doesn't cost - it pays", and "think twice, buy once." I prefer a wired release purely because my X-S10 has a slightly arcane menu system for toggling the 2-second delay on and off. Plus I keep forgetting to do so. 🙄
I can relate to tripods being something to be very fussy about, although I sort of got it right with my second one, a Manfrotto 155, which replaced a cheep Vanguard tripod that had a fitted plastic head, and wobbled. The problem with the Manfrotto, was it was just too heavy, and although it was sturdy, it got left behind all the time. I still have it, and use it at home. I next purchased a fairly cheep Chinese CF tripod, and to be fair, it has served me well, it certainly isn't for a heavy setup, but it is compact, and I use it when travelling. But my main tripod today, is nearly the same as yours, I have the iFootage TC7 Gazelle FastBowl Tripod, and it is fantastic, certainly good value for money, and I see no reason ever to replace it.
Thank goodness for my UV filter today as I was photographing sand dunes in windy conditions with wind gusts strong enough to make it difficult to stand and blowing the sand into my face and camera for several compositions that I wanted to capture. I’m on a road trip, so far covered 8000km, and moving on to new adventures and phots ops tomorrow, so can’t come back on a calm day.
I bought a cheap wired remote release which I use on windy days, which I can use to trigger the shutter in between the gusts of wind. I also sometimes use it with the RF 100-500mm lens when using a tripod - that lens has some weight and I find the 2 second delay is just to short (3 to 5 second delay would be ideal).
Hi Henry, I must say talking to people is the best to gain knowledge, whether it's face to face or to a camera. By the Henry a good shot of the boat house and fell. See you on the next adventure!
Great video as always Henry! I have always looked at the presets for sale that pop up on FB or Insta. I can't see myself ever buying them as that is then someone else's style on your photo. Rather learn to do the editing yourself, develop your own style. By all means make your own presets with your style. But don't buy other peoples style.
I think those remote shutters are for long exposures for SLR's with moving mirrors. Measure the light, mirror lock up, 2 second delay, then use the remote!!! belt and braces!!!
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Hey all. Really appreciate your support. Please be aware of scammers throughout all TH-cam comments on my videos (and other creators for that matter). They pose as me and offer ‘free gifts’. I never offer anything for free like this or ask you to contact me. Sorry about this. I wish TH-cam could do more as it’s proper hard for me to keep on top of as I work alone. Cheers 🙏🏼
Thanks for the heads up mate, but i already had a good idea of it being scammers.. They are the scum of the Earth
To be fare, most of us can spot these scammers a mile off now they’ve been around for so long now that we’re all getting to know the platter better than they do, there are still very a few that they manage to net of course so thanks for the heads up.
seems to be a regular thing here lately! Thanks for the warning
Curious if you have had any purchases that have been the opposite - ie. you have bought something expensive that you regretted or that wasn’t worthwhile?
Hi Henry yes I got one on todays video 29/12/22 thanks for the tips Pikles
Expensive outdoor clothing also makes you look cool, which is just as important as taking cool pictures.
A capable teacher teaches by his words. A competent teacher teaches by example. A compelling teacher teaches by his words, backed by his example. You are a capable, competent, compelling teacher, Mr. Turner!
Cheers Tim!!!
For me, a UV filter is not for protection from impact as I have never dropped my camera. It's to save the front element from cleaning and accidentally scratching it while doing so.
It seems like they come in handy when there is just a slight drizzle out and you just want to get the drops off your lense. I've seen several photographers just wipe it before I caught on everyone was using a UV filter.
I understand the theory but 1/ you still have to clean the filter and 2/ you can scratch the hell out of your front element and it has NO EFFECT (almost never) on your photo! In fact, I go out of my way to buy scratched, scuffed, used lenses at BARGAIN prices from KEH and Adorama and MPB. I have several DECADES of experience with this but if you don't believe me... ask Tony Northrup th-cam.com/video/YcZkCnPs45s/w-d-xo.html
@@timd4524 I think TH-camrs miss the point of UV/Protector filters and talk about dropping the camera. After I checked the front element replacement price for my Canon lenses, I decided it's better to go with a good-quality filter.
@@sebastianberes Yeah, with UV filters (a necessity due to a lack of good lens coatings) in the past and clear filters (mostly B+W) at present, the front element of the lenses that I bought for over four decades are just like new. IMO, it is the best way to prevent micro-abrasion due to decades of cleaning.
I’m not going say I don’t use them but I’ve never really thought that buying a $1500-$3000 lens and then putting a $100 or less piece of glass in front of it made any sense. I do use them but only in places like a sandy environment with lots of wind or at the ocean if there is wind or with sand or sea spray that could harm the front element
Mate you are NEVER boring. I always look forward to your next video. Talk away ... Enthusiasm always shines through.
I agree with every one except the remote release. When I need to take a group shot with me in it, I use my D7200. I don't use the timer or intervelometer because you've always got someone goofing off or not paying attention. With the remote, I can wait until everyone is ready, and then snap the picture. When I want to take a long exposure, I use my D850 with the remote cable. I liked to never have found where it attaches to the camera, but now that I have I use it alot instead of going through the menu and setting the delay, and then going back and taking it off. Just screw it in and I'm done. Excellent video by the way. Confirms what I've believed for years. Especially the UV/Clear filter. I stopped when I realized it was ever so slightly screwing up some of my favorite shots.
Another way to prevent camera motion when pressing the shutter is using the cellphone. WMU is very straightforward.
I disagree about the remote shutter release. I do a lot of seascape photography, and using 2 or 10 second delay is useless if trying to capture particular wave actions, especially if long exposures are involved. The remote release is essential to get the exact moment. I do agree that buying a “remote” release is a waste, because many (most?) cameras these days allow remote control from an app on your phone. I actually have a cheap cable release so I don’t have to mess around setting up Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connections.
Also true on a windy day when photographing closeups of wildflowers. You need to hit the shutter at that exact moment the wind stops. Two seconds later the flower may be bouncing around again.
No, you are not talking too much. You are right, we do not need too much gear ! We need ideas ! Thank you for your video 👍
Respectivefully disagree about remote. The Sony remote can either trigger shutter or change focus. The focus change makes it very easy to focus stack without touching the camera.
I find the remote shutter absolutely indispensable for bracketed panoramas. Sure lock-up exposure delay exists, but when you're taking 21 shots per pano (6 around + 1 up with 3 brackets) saving 1 or 2 seconds per shot to avoid mirror shock / vibration is super useful. Even more critical for exposure stacked HDRs because slight variations can destroy a photo.
Henry, don't change a thing! Your presentations are just fine, a nice mix of technical and practical information.
You have some good points, like not buying “pre-set”.
Having said that, a remote release, wired or wireless, is handy to have,
1. it allows the photographer to time the shutter release time more precisely. With in-camera delay release, like 2 seconds, could feel like eternity if one is shooting something that is stationary.
2. A remote control also allows the photographer to fire a camera (on tripod) that is set up higher than arm reach or any remote camera setup.
Remote control is not only for reducing camera vibration.
2) I wanted to photograph some buildings in NYC, but there was a fence of about 3 feet and it wouldn't let me take a clean shot, (my lens was 82mm, and the holes in the fence were 2 inches). I put my camera on my monopod and raised it as high as it would go, so I could get over the fence, see my target through the Vari-Angle Touch Screen and with my remote shutter release I would focus and shoot.
Agreed with all except #7 I do a ton of seascapes so remote shutter is a life safer for me.. when you're standing in the water, waves crashing around you and you need to capture that exact moment and you'r shooting anywhere from 1/4 of a sec to 1 sec Delayed timer is definitely a no go.
Great video! The one for me that still makes sense is the remote shutter. I agree with your wireless point. I still use a wired one which was maybe $20 usd on Amazon. It also had a timer and intervelometor function. The main reason for me is the bulb function on the remote because the remote shutter has a lock and a timer.
I do a cost benefit analysis whenever I buy gear - hiking, camping, photography.
Filters: I once dropped my camera climbing over a fallen tree. Had a lens hood, lens cap & polarizer on it. All three cracked. My camera broke so I could not mount a lens anymore. My lens survived and I still use it on my Z with the adapter.
Presets: I only find them useful when doing a series to maintain the look over the whole thing.
I am a firm believer in rent first. If it turns out you don't like/need it, you aren't out the money.
Henry, clear filters serve a huge purpose, not for impact so much, but rather to protect your very expensive coatings on your lenses. Much better to clean the filter on a regular basis than your very expensive lens. If you have ever had an expensive pair of sunglasses that you clean on a regular basis, you will notice that every time you clean them, you gradually break down the coatings. Also if one ever had an abrasive bit on land on the filter and you cleaned it without a blower, I think we can all agree that the scratch on the filter would be more accepted than the lens.
Henry, this video was very good. Heartily agree about MPB guys!
👍 I just stumbled across your video and watched it with a lot of pleasure. You are really a likable guy and I enjoyed your „flood of words“. I‘m looking forward now to binge watch all of your videos ☺️ Best greeting from Germany ✌️
Just to let you know Henry, your videos are being watched religiously by me. I think I speak for a ton of your follows as well. You are doing a great job. Keep being you, and the rest of us will live curiously thru your lens.
Todd Whitmire
I agree with Sebastian about UV filters. They’re not for impact protection; they’re for spray and sand and such on wet windy days, and so forth. Of course you need to buy good ones, and replace them from time to time.
I agree with everyone who's been saying basically "Keep babbling on, Henry!" You're teaching and I love the way you get your points across. I use a wired remote release for focus stacking and close-ups just to make sure the shutter is tripped at the exact right moment. All other times I use a three-second delay. My feeling on UV filters is this: You pay top dollar for a lens that's as sharp as can be. Why put a $50 piece of glass on the front if you're not trying to optimize the image? Plus, there's a lot more that can break on a lens these days other than the front element if you drop it. I have a rider on my home insurance for my camera gear. Never had to use it yet but it gives a boost to the old peace of mind. Keep making these wonderful videos Henry!
As always, a very interesting video, everyone can find something for themselves, thanks for each of your videos,regards
Good stuff I enjoyed that, cheers 👍🏻. UV filters!! I have 2 x KASE magnetic MCUV filters, they obviously protect and double up as the magnet for stacking magnetic ND’s or Polariser, haven’t noticed any drop in image quality at all with these attached so win win for me. I also use Lee ND grads, top quality gear and I’d much prefer to get the shot as it happens plus I just love playing with filters 🤓😁.
👍👍👍and for the record...this video was NOT a total waste....the photo of the boathouse with the rolling hills in the background, was a success. So.....no it was not a total waste and I say....it's good to engage with your audience, and the more you have to say to newbie's, the better. I am quite sure they appreciate the sacrifice, one great shot vs many, you just made, for all of them. Thank you for this video. I appreciated it.
I use a wireless remote shutter release for night photography and astrophotography where I need a better intervalometer than the built-in.
Hi Henry...am 75 disabled..cant walk on uneven ground..so I follow most of your videos to gain knowledge...I spend a lot of time in the Taurus mountains Turkey..on a monster quad bike beautiful part of the world.....gets me to places I can't hike to...and places most people will never see..oh..the uv filter.. I started with a kowa 35mm early 70s..the movie blow up got me going..my local camera club in kings lynn Norfolk.. I was told back then..don't waist your money on them..only thing you need in front of your lens is the subject ...keep going mate..
Thoroughly enjoyed your musings on this video, always great to see your pictures of course, but equally good to share in your experience, you worry too much
Brilliant just ordered a step up ring ,can't believe I didn't think of it before.
On the subject of UV filters - I use them not because I'm worried about dropping the lens onto the front filter. I'm worried about scratches to the front element that are not easily repaired. I was a working photojournalist for many years and continue to photograph sports. I've often been in situations where the environment was not controlled - windy, dusty, forest fires, etc. Lots of crap was being thrown up into the air and onto the front end of my lenses. Even on the side of a field of play, turf pebbles, grass bits, and the like are kicked up or get onto my gear when they are sat down on a field. I'd much rather scratch up a UV filter in those conditions, than the front element of my lens. A lens hood isn't going to help in those situations.
I use my remote shutter when photographing fireworks, that way I don't have to guess when the good ones are coming in advance, and I don't get a sore arm with camera in portrait mode holding the shutter button during 10 minute displays and risking bumping the camera. Learnt that one the hard way so appreciate my remote shutter in these situations.
I always enjoy you nattering away! You natter about very interesting stuff. In the past, I’ve bought everything on your list except the grad filter! Call me the Wally!
Couple of alternative considerations Henry :
a) Grad filters are great when there is extreme movement in the composition, bracketing isn't great in those types of situation
b) saving weight : switch to magnetics ! I sold off my squares and went with the Kase Wolverine Magnetics after reading numerous positive reviews, I absolutely adore them. And because they are so easy to use I'll pull them out and pop one on far more often than my lazy arse would usually do. The case with 7-8 filters fits in my trouser or jacket pocket and it literally takes me under 10 secs to be ready to shoot. The main reason for the switch was the weight and size saving though. My Benro 5 filter kit weighted 992g (+ case) whereas the Kase Wolverines weighs 265g inc. case. (I've kept all my hiking /camping weights in the Packing Pro app for the past 6-7 yrs so have the exact weights of everything).
c) UV filters are contentious and polarising. Suffice to say that for me there are very few situations where I'll use them (hoods are far better protection) that's in sandy/dusty/saltwater environments.
d) Absolutely with you on presets - biggest waste of money on the internet ! Every photo is different and will still need adjusting so just create your own and save it for further use.
e) My remote, Pluto Trigger, cost me US$125 ! However it's capable of so much more than your standard remote wit settings for Stills,Timelapses, Startrails, HDR, Video, Sound trigger, Laser trigger, Lightning trigger, Proximity. Droplet. Shake. Smile, Motion and simplifies the process for most of them. Not for everyone but works for me ! For simple long exposures I still use the in-camera 5 secs self timer.
Using ND Grads in a long exposure is important for me. When using a 10 or 15 stop ND, having the grad in place allows greater control of any peaking or burning the sky. Running an exposure for many minutes has often helped by me using ND Grads. For normal single shots I don't really use them and will bracket if the scene needs it. Nothing wrong with buying ND Grads, just make sure you know what you want to do with them.....but that really applies to any kit, whether its lenses, bodies, flashes etc. We need to find our own journey and find our own personal styles to create the photos we want. If you dont know what you want to do you will probably not use the tools correctly.
Old Russian proverb… “Cheap Pays Twice” ;) The sheep poking its head out of the ferns is GREAT! I just purchased a new Manfrotto Tripod on Amazon to replace the cheap light one I had been using for years that no longer works correctly, just needed to bite the bullet and just do it! Also people need to read the manual that was provided with the camera to have more knowledge of how it really works (Learn the Bells & Whistles). Your doing a GREAT SERVICE Sir. Your not just talking to the glass on your camera. Your passion comes through and I like it a lot. Cheers mate - 🍻
In defence of remote shutters. If you get a decent one, it can have way more options than a build in one in your camera. Some have more control over exposure settings, variable interval times and multiple cycles than some cameras offer. Helpful with star trailing or the day-to-night type time lapses. Also if you're using older DSLRs, some don't even have build in option at all.
Another example -skittish animals. You can set up your gear on tripod, leave some snacks nearby as bait, walk away and snap from the distance.
And last, but not least -bulb mode. If you're doing super long exposures, self timer just won't do, and most cameras have 30sec limit without bulb.
Good tips anyway. Thanks and keep it up.
Watched to the end buddy. Very interesting! Thumbs up!!
Good advice Henry. First thing I did when buying filters was get them in the size for my biggest lens, then bought some step down rings for the smaller lenses. I do use a remote shutter release, but I didn't want to buy a wireless one, too expensive. I got a cheap corded one. What I use it for is taking pictures of fireworks, put camera in bulb mode and hold the button down on the remote when the rocket goes off and release it when the burst starts to fade. Works good for that, and that's about all I use it for.
I was in the contract poultry business for 22 years and learned my lesson about buying cheap stuff. Buying cheap stuff almost always costs more in the long run than buying quality items. Always buy the best you can get, even if it costs a little more. Not buying by price, but by value, and the better value items always cost a little more than the cheapest priced item.
Great discussion. I agree with all you have said and gained my point of view after spending for things I did not need. BUT ... a remote IS NEEDED when your camera is on a tripod and timing counts ... for example capturing a wave breaking over a rock. Using a 2 second timer DOES NOT work in this case.
In terms of remote shutter, if you have a Canon you have the camera app. You can shoot, focus and set shutter speed, aperture and ISO there too. For free.
You can get decent, cheap waterproof/windproof clothing if you know where to go. I highly recommend RAF surplus goretex overtrousers which you can buy for as little as £10.
Being out and not taking any photos is better than any day not being out :) I agree with a lot on your list and agree it is wise to purchase as good as you can or save up before you buy, that also helps temper impulse buys (which I have been guilty of on a number of occasions). Keep waffling on Henry! We love it!
I mostly put on UV filter while I store my camera or travel with camera. For protection . When I take photos, I take it off so I get better quality
I agree with everything you've said I have a Lumix S1 and one Lens the 24 to 105mm and that's it, and only use the software built into Windows 11, (10 before that) I'm 63 so was a film user so still try to get things right first-time! You were not gabbing on and others are a lot worse x.
Another great video, I was there a few days ago, lovely quiet spot.
Great views from where you parked as well, I parked there.
Look forward to your videos each week 😊
Hi Henry, I see you now have 64k subscribers so you are clearly doing something right. I’m sure it is hard coming up with something every week, but there is no substitute for integrity and saying it how it is (for you at least). It has got you this far! I suspect many of us are on a similar journey with our photography so your ability to relate and vice versa is one of the keys. Cheers
Hi Henry, I'm originally from England but now live in Australia. Wonderful to watch you adventure and photograph the countryside of my youth. Keep it up!
Good shout about outdoor clothing. You do get what you pay for. The smart money, as usual is in the mid-range. But it can be night and day in terms of comfort and the most important thing of all, enjoying your time in the outdoors.
great video very entertaining. I find my remote shutter release really valuable, would not do astro or landscape without it.
Bought an adapter and a few LOMO lenses for my Sony NEX-7, Daft.. urk
Great tips all around. One thing not on this list that I'm guessing we've all been through is trying to find the right camera bag/backpack for our gear. Ease of access to the body, lenses, and accessories varies significantly, as does comfort when wearing it. I've gone through several as my gear changed over the years, and as my preferences for certain features changed.
Lovely scenery and shots. I agree about the tripod. I often like to hike with just my camera on a sling strap and I've taken some great shots that way, but all the master pieces, I mean absolute best photos in my portfolio were taken using a tripod. One thing I think is a waste of money for landscape photography are battery grips. These are great if you're shooting wildlife or sports with a huge hulking lens, but for landscape they're more hindrance than help.
I find a remote release useful for seascape photography when having to time the shutter with a wave. Otherwise, the self-timer does the job perfectly well.
Exactly…and I do somehow remember someone spoke about this in one of his videos 😊. Although it was a wired remote if I recall correctly.
Exactly my thought. I guess a remote would be useful in any kind of photography if a certain event suddenly happens that your photo could benefit from, e.g. some birds flying into the scene of your epic landscape shot.
You can use a mobile phone for remote control in some cameras.
Does no one use a shutter release cable any more???
Filters are a very valuable instrument in photography. Not everyone has digital cameras and computors.
I still use film
I agree with you sentiments on clothing, get the best you can afford or yous what you have untill you know what you want or need.
Another use for a remote shutter release is If You do night photography with lightpainting. Then You usally want to light your subject from the side, and You ofte have to Walk quite a far Way away from the Camera in the dark. Then its really nice to be able to trigger the shutter remotely.
However, many modern cameras today can be controlled with a smartphone.
For LF film photography, ND-grads are still essential. I agree on *wireless* remote shooting, but I constantly use a *wire* cable trigger. Same benefits of not touching camera, but you can capture the image at the very moment you want, and don't. have to guess what will happen in two seconds. For dSLR, use mirror-lock up or live view before pressing remote shutter. I use front filters on WA lenses (e.g. Zeiss 21) as the lens hood will not protect the large front element, while on others it is impossible (e.g., Canon TSE 17). Otherwise, completely agree on lens hood, but rather for photography reasons (reflection, micro contrast) with protection being an exaptation. I am always amazed at photographers not using a hood at all times. Pretty much a tripod junkie here (RRS), preaching to choir.
Use mirror up mode too ..helps with shutter shake
Also use the screen in live view as that reduces camera shake
I like your videos - you’re real and not up yourself
Henry I love your videos, when are you coming to Australia
Lots of good advice, but I do use a remote wireless shutter a lot, although it’s probably quite niche - I shoot light-painted astro shots and use the wireless remote to allow me to move around in the field lighting up different parts of the foreground with a torch/light. I could just put the camera on a repeat interval timer, for 10 minutes, but this method with the remote just gives me much more control and results in fewer wasted shots. Also, each frame only has a single discreet light-painted area because i know when each frame is beginning and ending. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with your choices here - especially about good quality clothing!
The remote shutter is great when you're shooting something that requires timing, like waves crashing or animals moving. You don't have to worry about camera shake or the timer.
I came here to say just that. Specifically with regards to landscape photography I use it to capture the moment when the shadows of the clouds are in the right place, illuminating what I want illuminated and shading what I want shaded.
Yes, I was going to say the same, anything that is moving, .... could be waiting for a person or a boat or a bird to be in a certain precise position.
You are right. Older APN haven't any time lapse function, and require a remote system to trigger it , even with a wire, it doesn't matter. (Nikon D300s with a good MC-36 trigger wired system ).
Fortunately, since that time, I purchased another camera... but sometimes use my old MC-36 that does a perfect job.
In the old days, you'd use a shutter release cable. I suppose IR remotes fulfil the same function today.
Also, long exposure/night photography, both to minimize shake and so you don't have to be stand around in that exact spot for so long.
Thanks for the tips. Many are very useful, Good luck, New cool photos.
Watched all the way through. Good stuff. As a beginner with GAS - definitely useful advice. Thanks for the great content!
Remote shutter release: One use would be photographing waves when you need to time the shot. Or many cameras have a remote app on your phone.
Take heart from the fact you give us a great deal of pleasure and inspiration.
Talking about your thoughts is the best form of self help.
Keep up the great work.
I like that you make sure every body knows up front that this is your opinion. I completely agree that dressing for the environment you'll be working in is not an area to cheap out in! Also, the cheap plastic "kit" tripods are not worth anything. Pay a little more and get a good tripod. I have a Manfrotto Element Traveler, and it works great...for me. Last thing is something I kinda disagree with. UV Filters for lens protection. I buy quality filters to protect the lens from rain, snow, salt, etc. As with any opinion, your mileage may vary! Thanks again for a great video!
I agree with a lot of this, but I still use UV filters to prevent grit from scratching the lens, or to keep off sea spray. I most cases I would use a timer for landscapes, but I'd use a remote trigger for seascapes or long exposures of traffic (or long exposures of anything that must start at certain conditions which are either random or beyond my control). Also GNDs are good if there's a lot of movement in the scene, such as having trees on the horizon and it's quite a windy day.
Lots of great advice there, thanks again 👍
after like 15 years of casual photography, the only thing I don't agree is the UV/clear filter part. the protection is not for smashing or falling, but for actual weather sealing for those weather sealed lens like Canon L lens in their spec, and so fine dust/dirt/finger oil don't scratch the front elements, and modern front elements cost a ton to replace, it makes no sense for budget lens, but for more premium lens, a great clear filter like the B+W one is definitely worth it with minimal image impact, when taking night scene, just take it off
For post I use Affinity Photo which has presets. In many cases I have found that certain presets (in tone mapping), especially 'Detail' and 'Dramatic', greatly improve the image to the extent that I need do no more editing. In other examples the presets offer a great starting point, but can be improved with further editing. They also offer a quick way to show what results are achieved with different settings, even if you don't use them on actual photos. As regards remote shutter releases, I agree with others that they are useful for capturing specific instances such as waves. Also, as a DSLR user, they are useful when I use the mirror-up option, which is nearly all the time. Mirror-up removes a minor element of camera shake, but you have to click twice, first to move the mirror, second to take the shot. This can be done with the remote release, but not with the timer. This works well with bracketing where, for example, a 5x bracket, with mirror-up, requires 10 clicks.
Yeah, good suggestions. Agreed. That's funny about the tripods...I literally ended up w/ 4 or 5 crappy, flimsy ones (barely tripods, really), before I realized, oh, gotta just spend a tiny bit more. Made all the difference in the world.
For purchase number one, graduated filters, I made that purchase when I first started. When I was much younger, I used to ride a sport bike (Ninja 600), and I had a friend, who was a photographer, offered to take some shots of me on my bike. On several of the shots he used a graduated red filter to create a much redder sky than we actually had that evening. I really loved that effect and when I got started, I wanted to be able to duplicate that effect. It wasn't until after I started playing that I came to the same realization that Mr. Turner did in that the effect is easily obtained through post processing. However, another thing that I didn't consider when I wanted to duplicate that effect was that he was using real film. My 'photoshoot' was actually well before DSLRs even existed, so without some extraordinary 'post processing', he was forced to do the effect with a filter. It really never occurred to me that there may be a modern alternative, so I literally ordered a filter set with my kit purchase.
As for the UV filter item, I used one for a long time for the exact reason you mentioned. But one day I removed it and realized that unless you spend the money for a really nice one, they can actually degrade your photos a touch. I came to the same conclusion as Mr. Turner did and realized that my lens hood did offer just about the same level of protection.
For the sixth purchase, the remotes, I have never really needed one for landscape photography, but I also like to dabble in astrophotography, and for that environment, a remote is invaluable in my opinion. My first camera was a Canon xsi, and for that camera I bought a corded remote. I have since sold that kit and now I have a 90D. The fantastic thing about the 90D is that it is bluetooth capable, so my phone can become the best remote you'll ever use with your camera, as you can preview the shot, and even change settings. And, when taking photos like Milky Way shots where you'll be stacking 30+ images, having a remote is almost a must.
Excellent video. Your list was spot on!
Shooting waves is a good use of a wireless shutter release. Set up the camera on the tripod with the right settings, then you can watch the sea taking shots on the moment. Timing waves with a 2s timer is tricky. Top video pal, all the best. 👍🏻
All good points which I agree with. About the remote shutters, most manufacturers have apps that will do that for free from your phone anyway, and you can change other settings via that rather than just a shutter button.
I use a remote when I take Nightscape photos, I can be lighting the foreground metres away from the camera. That is the only time, otherwise like you I do use shutter delay.
Great video Henry! I have a good use for my remote trigger... If I want to precisely time a longish exposure shot, for example if trying to photograph a wave as it goes out on a beach. Two second timer doesn't work for that. Plus my camera doesn't have a built in intervalometer. I would however advise using one with a wire; much cheaper.
I was going to say that (you beat me to it) but you don't need a £30 wireless remote you can get wired remotes that do the same for about £5 on the internet shopping sites.
whilst I would agree with you, I had a couple of occasions where I wanted a longer exposure, and the breeze did clank the controller about a bit. Also, I dunked a number of them in rivers by accident, killing them... this promoted me to purchase my remote one, which hasn't been dunked once thankfully!
@@sandyknight3910 Will you agree with me if/when you dunk your remote one? I'm pretty sure remote ones are dunkable 🤣🤣
@@christophersaul4993 😂😂😂😂 I am too, but so far so good and while it's in my hand I've found myself to be more careful. Of course, I did mindlessly stuff it into a pocket on a cold day, then had a frantic search everywhere thinking I had lost it... So it's not all rainbows and roses!!
I have never used or needed to use a lens hood but always use a good quality UV filter, especially after I dropped my 70-300 and destroyed the filter but saved the lens. I use a wired remote for exposures longer than 30 seconds to use the bulb setting or to control precisely when the shutter goes off although the 2 second delay is OK most of the time.
Remote Shutter - Most, if not all camera manufacturers now have a phone app that you can trigger the shutter. Many of these also have live view, setting aperture etc. as well as moving the focus point. Makes much more sense as most of us have smart phones!
Good point actually!!
Disagree. My remote shutter doesn’t need any batteries or apps and had never failed me in over 10 years. Plus some of us leave the phone in the car and go out taking images to get away from the phone
@@davidpearson3304 If I left my phone in the car it wouldn't be there when I came back :)
I have a wired remote, but I used to use the delay method. Main reason I got a remote is for bulb mode 😊
I'm with you with uv filters tho my reason for not using them is because sometimes they can cause slight refractions and ghosting or similar on the photos. They can protect the lens if you drop it, it happened to me back in... 1991 i think. Dropped the camera, filter broke, lens and camera were fine. My solution was not to buy more filters but to be more careful with my equipment. And it worked (except in feb 2018 when I dropped my G9 onto the pavement, but it had the lens hood on so it was fine :)
As for remote releases, both my cameras have wifi so i just use the app and my smart phone. And when I've taken the snap I can then download it onto said phone and share it on insta. Or vero... ;)
But seriously, the best advice you've given here is to buy the best that you can afford, and in my experience, the best is often not the most expensive.
I use a remote shutter release for long exposures ( over 30seconds) on Nikon DSLR. To avoid camera shake. It was only cheap mind you. I prefer this over cable as I don't keep having to access the camera ports. I could use smartphone app but then have to consider battery consumption for WiFi or Bluetooth.
Some great tips on purchases here. I’ve never bought a UV filter as putting a cheap bit of glass in front a a nice quality lens does not seem right , may as well not use nice lenses. Maybe I’m wrong ?
UV filters come in real handy when I'm out shooting Motocross, Enduro & Trials just for the simple reason they protect the front element from all the roost (mud & stones) sprayed up from the wheels of the bikes. That's literally the only reason I have a few of them. Lovely images again mate.
Instances when I would use a remote release "cable" or 'phone app. When things are moving in a scene and you need to take the photo at exactly the correct time so you cannot use a self timer. Examples would be crashing waves, birds flying in a scene or trees/grass/leaves moving in the wind and you have to wait for a lull.
When it comes right down to it, what is the difference between using some type of filter on site or using a preset in post? I find photography more enjoyable attempting to do everything on site.
Sure a filter might cost a bunch of bucks, (quids to the people in England), but it should last a lifetime.
I attempt to get it right on site and perfect it in post. When others might want to just get a shot, then use a preset, then perfect that.
The difference is up to you.
4:07 "post processing" only applies and works for digital images. A typical B&W film has a dynamic range of more or less 5 fstops inbetween black and white. ND grads are a must. And being legacy and coming from film photography I try to get my image done in camera as much as I can.
Great video Henry ! The main reason I use my remote wireless shutter is if i'm putting myself in the composition. Some of the wireless shutters have several hundred ft range and can certainly be handy for that. Otherwise yeah, not much use for them when you can simply set a 2 sec shutter delay if you're worried about shaking the camera. I picked mine up for only $30 CDN (a cheapie off Amazon which works great) which is likely around 15-20 quid. Just thought as well once in a while I do a family portrait of my family with myself included and the wireless shutter is amazing for that since I'm not having to run back and forth from the camera and hope I make it in time lol !
Awesome video Henry. This is my very first comment on any of your videos. I personally believe everyone purchase the "toys" they like based on their preference, comfort zone and photography style.
I am a HUGE fan of remove shutter. I have used the delay setting on my camera only to find out I am not in control of when the camera will take the image. Sun goes behind the clouds, wind blows, seagull flies in front of my composition and my camera is still counting one more second before the images is produced. Not me, I am a control freak. I have to be in charge of when that shutter is going off. I wait for the wind, the sun or the seagull to make the move and I hit that shutter at the exact moment I want without touching the camera. That is just me, anyone using 2 or 3 seconds delay and is happy doing so is perfectly ok and will makes no difference.
Thanks for the video. I would have liked to see that first shot with the two rocks upon which you set up included as foreground interest. It may not have worked but I would like to have seen it.
8:00 UV filters (high quality) protect your lenses from blowing sand and salt water when you are shooting beach or deserts. It is also much easier to wipe water drops off of a flat UV filter than it is to wipe water/rain from your lens element and possibly scratch your lens coatings.
The only reason to use a UV filter is when you’re shooting in a place where you have sand. This can protect your front element from getting sandblasted by wind and the sand.
Hi Henry another great waffling vlog
Please dont change
I recently started to buy Some 10stopND for my most used lenses when I realised like you said get step down rings !!!
Also if you spend a lot of money on a lens with very good glass …don’t put a cheap UV filter on it it’s like getting a new TV and watching it through the window 😀
Another great clip, Henry. And don't be critical of yourself and what you have to say: it is *always* valuable. There's never been a clip where I thought "too much." It's also wonderful to hear the word "daft" - it takes me back to my childhood in Manchester. If I had to distill-down your message it would be to two things: quality doesn't cost - it pays", and "think twice, buy once." I prefer a wired release purely because my X-S10 has a slightly arcane menu system for toggling the 2-second delay on and off. Plus I keep forgetting to do so. 🙄
I can relate to tripods being something to be very fussy about, although I sort of got it right with my second one, a Manfrotto 155, which replaced a cheep Vanguard tripod that had a fitted plastic head, and wobbled. The problem with the Manfrotto, was it was just too heavy, and although it was sturdy, it got left behind all the time. I still have it, and use it at home. I next purchased a fairly cheep Chinese CF tripod, and to be fair, it has served me well, it certainly isn't for a heavy setup, but it is compact, and I use it when travelling. But my main tripod today, is nearly the same as yours, I have the iFootage TC7 Gazelle FastBowl Tripod, and it is fantastic, certainly good value for money, and I see no reason ever to replace it.
Thank goodness for my UV filter today as I was photographing sand dunes in windy conditions with wind gusts strong enough to make it difficult to stand and blowing the sand into my face and camera for several compositions that I wanted to capture. I’m on a road trip, so far covered 8000km, and moving on to new adventures and phots ops tomorrow, so can’t come back on a calm day.
I bought a cheap wired remote release which I use on windy days, which I can use to trigger the shutter in between the gusts of wind.
I also sometimes use it with the RF 100-500mm lens when using a tripod - that lens has some weight and I find the 2 second delay is just to short (3 to 5 second delay would be ideal).
I know you're a landscape photographer but I really liked the photo of the sheep amongst the ferns
Hi Henry, I must say talking to people is the best to gain knowledge, whether it's face to face or to a camera. By the Henry a good shot of the boat house and fell.
See you on the next adventure!
Henry, you are right on some, however i do use a wireless remote for long expos so not to touch it as not got them expensive cameras, lol
Great video as always Henry!
I have always looked at the presets for sale that pop up on FB or Insta. I can't see myself ever buying them as that is then someone else's style on your photo. Rather learn to do the editing yourself, develop your own style. By all means make your own presets with your style. But don't buy other peoples style.
I think those remote shutters are for long exposures for SLR's with moving mirrors. Measure the light, mirror lock up, 2 second delay, then use the remote!!! belt and braces!!!