Hey all. Really appreciate your support. Please be aware of scammers throughout all TH-cam comments on my videos (and other creators for that matter). They pose as me and offer ‘free gifts’. I never offer anything for free like this or ask you to contact me. Sorry about this. I wish TH-cam could do more as it’s proper hard for me to keep on top of as I work alone. Cheers 🙏🏼
To be fare, most of us can spot these scammers a mile off now they’ve been around for so long now that we’re all getting to know the platter better than they do, there are still very a few that they manage to net of course so thanks for the heads up.
Curious if you have had any purchases that have been the opposite - ie. you have bought something expensive that you regretted or that wasn’t worthwhile?
A capable teacher teaches by his words. A competent teacher teaches by example. A compelling teacher teaches by his words, backed by his example. You are a capable, competent, compelling teacher, Mr. Turner!
For me, a UV filter is not for protection from impact as I have never dropped my camera. It's to save the front element from cleaning and accidentally scratching it while doing so.
It seems like they come in handy when there is just a slight drizzle out and you just want to get the drops off your lense. I've seen several photographers just wipe it before I caught on everyone was using a UV filter.
I understand the theory but 1/ you still have to clean the filter and 2/ you can scratch the hell out of your front element and it has NO EFFECT (almost never) on your photo! In fact, I go out of my way to buy scratched, scuffed, used lenses at BARGAIN prices from KEH and Adorama and MPB. I have several DECADES of experience with this but if you don't believe me... ask Tony Northrup th-cam.com/video/YcZkCnPs45s/w-d-xo.html
@@timd4524 I think TH-camrs miss the point of UV/Protector filters and talk about dropping the camera. After I checked the front element replacement price for my Canon lenses, I decided it's better to go with a good-quality filter.
@@sebastianberes Yeah, with UV filters (a necessity due to a lack of good lens coatings) in the past and clear filters (mostly B+W) at present, the front element of the lenses that I bought for over four decades are just like new. IMO, it is the best way to prevent micro-abrasion due to decades of cleaning.
I’m not going say I don’t use them but I’ve never really thought that buying a $1500-$3000 lens and then putting a $100 or less piece of glass in front of it made any sense. I do use them but only in places like a sandy environment with lots of wind or at the ocean if there is wind or with sand or sea spray that could harm the front element
Great video! The one for me that still makes sense is the remote shutter. I agree with your wireless point. I still use a wired one which was maybe $20 usd on Amazon. It also had a timer and intervelometor function. The main reason for me is the bulb function on the remote because the remote shutter has a lock and a timer.
I agree with every one except the remote release. When I need to take a group shot with me in it, I use my D7200. I don't use the timer or intervelometer because you've always got someone goofing off or not paying attention. With the remote, I can wait until everyone is ready, and then snap the picture. When I want to take a long exposure, I use my D850 with the remote cable. I liked to never have found where it attaches to the camera, but now that I have I use it alot instead of going through the menu and setting the delay, and then going back and taking it off. Just screw it in and I'm done. Excellent video by the way. Confirms what I've believed for years. Especially the UV/Clear filter. I stopped when I realized it was ever so slightly screwing up some of my favorite shots.
I disagree about the remote shutter release. I do a lot of seascape photography, and using 2 or 10 second delay is useless if trying to capture particular wave actions, especially if long exposures are involved. The remote release is essential to get the exact moment. I do agree that buying a “remote” release is a waste, because many (most?) cameras these days allow remote control from an app on your phone. I actually have a cheap cable release so I don’t have to mess around setting up Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connections.
Also true on a windy day when photographing closeups of wildflowers. You need to hit the shutter at that exact moment the wind stops. Two seconds later the flower may be bouncing around again.
Great discussion. I agree with all you have said and gained my point of view after spending for things I did not need. BUT ... a remote IS NEEDED when your camera is on a tripod and timing counts ... for example capturing a wave breaking over a rock. Using a 2 second timer DOES NOT work in this case.
I agree with everyone who's been saying basically "Keep babbling on, Henry!" You're teaching and I love the way you get your points across. I use a wired remote release for focus stacking and close-ups just to make sure the shutter is tripped at the exact right moment. All other times I use a three-second delay. My feeling on UV filters is this: You pay top dollar for a lens that's as sharp as can be. Why put a $50 piece of glass on the front if you're not trying to optimize the image? Plus, there's a lot more that can break on a lens these days other than the front element if you drop it. I have a rider on my home insurance for my camera gear. Never had to use it yet but it gives a boost to the old peace of mind. Keep making these wonderful videos Henry!
👍 I just stumbled across your video and watched it with a lot of pleasure. You are really a likable guy and I enjoyed your „flood of words“. I‘m looking forward now to binge watch all of your videos ☺️ Best greeting from Germany ✌️
I agree with Sebastian about UV filters. They’re not for impact protection; they’re for spray and sand and such on wet windy days, and so forth. Of course you need to buy good ones, and replace them from time to time.
You have some good points, like not buying “pre-set”. Having said that, a remote release, wired or wireless, is handy to have, 1. it allows the photographer to time the shutter release time more precisely. With in-camera delay release, like 2 seconds, could feel like eternity if one is shooting something that is stationary. 2. A remote control also allows the photographer to fire a camera (on tripod) that is set up higher than arm reach or any remote camera setup. Remote control is not only for reducing camera vibration.
2) I wanted to photograph some buildings in NYC, but there was a fence of about 3 feet and it wouldn't let me take a clean shot, (my lens was 82mm, and the holes in the fence were 2 inches). I put my camera on my monopod and raised it as high as it would go, so I could get over the fence, see my target through the Vari-Angle Touch Screen and with my remote shutter release I would focus and shoot.
Agreed with all except #7 I do a ton of seascapes so remote shutter is a life safer for me.. when you're standing in the water, waves crashing around you and you need to capture that exact moment and you'r shooting anywhere from 1/4 of a sec to 1 sec Delayed timer is definitely a no go.
I use my remote shutter when photographing fireworks, that way I don't have to guess when the good ones are coming in advance, and I don't get a sore arm with camera in portrait mode holding the shutter button during 10 minute displays and risking bumping the camera. Learnt that one the hard way so appreciate my remote shutter in these situations.
Thoroughly enjoyed your musings on this video, always great to see your pictures of course, but equally good to share in your experience, you worry too much
In defence of remote shutters. If you get a decent one, it can have way more options than a build in one in your camera. Some have more control over exposure settings, variable interval times and multiple cycles than some cameras offer. Helpful with star trailing or the day-to-night type time lapses. Also if you're using older DSLRs, some don't even have build in option at all. Another example -skittish animals. You can set up your gear on tripod, leave some snacks nearby as bait, walk away and snap from the distance. And last, but not least -bulb mode. If you're doing super long exposures, self timer just won't do, and most cameras have 30sec limit without bulb. Good tips anyway. Thanks and keep it up.
I find the remote shutter absolutely indispensable for bracketed panoramas. Sure lock-up exposure delay exists, but when you're taking 21 shots per pano (6 around + 1 up with 3 brackets) saving 1 or 2 seconds per shot to avoid mirror shock / vibration is super useful. Even more critical for exposure stacked HDRs because slight variations can destroy a photo.
The remote shutter is great when you're shooting something that requires timing, like waves crashing or animals moving. You don't have to worry about camera shake or the timer.
I came here to say just that. Specifically with regards to landscape photography I use it to capture the moment when the shadows of the clouds are in the right place, illuminating what I want illuminated and shading what I want shaded.
You are right. Older APN haven't any time lapse function, and require a remote system to trigger it , even with a wire, it doesn't matter. (Nikon D300s with a good MC-36 trigger wired system ). Fortunately, since that time, I purchased another camera... but sometimes use my old MC-36 that does a perfect job.
Respectivefully disagree about remote. The Sony remote can either trigger shutter or change focus. The focus change makes it very easy to focus stack without touching the camera.
I do a cost benefit analysis whenever I buy gear - hiking, camping, photography. Filters: I once dropped my camera climbing over a fallen tree. Had a lens hood, lens cap & polarizer on it. All three cracked. My camera broke so I could not mount a lens anymore. My lens survived and I still use it on my Z with the adapter. Presets: I only find them useful when doing a series to maintain the look over the whole thing. I am a firm believer in rent first. If it turns out you don't like/need it, you aren't out the money.
Hi Henry...am 75 disabled..cant walk on uneven ground..so I follow most of your videos to gain knowledge...I spend a lot of time in the Taurus mountains Turkey..on a monster quad bike beautiful part of the world.....gets me to places I can't hike to...and places most people will never see..oh..the uv filter.. I started with a kowa 35mm early 70s..the movie blow up got me going..my local camera club in kings lynn Norfolk.. I was told back then..don't waist your money on them..only thing you need in front of your lens is the subject ...keep going mate..
Henry, clear filters serve a huge purpose, not for impact so much, but rather to protect your very expensive coatings on your lenses. Much better to clean the filter on a regular basis than your very expensive lens. If you have ever had an expensive pair of sunglasses that you clean on a regular basis, you will notice that every time you clean them, you gradually break down the coatings. Also if one ever had an abrasive bit on land on the filter and you cleaned it without a blower, I think we can all agree that the scratch on the filter would be more accepted than the lens.
I agree with everything you've said I have a Lumix S1 and one Lens the 24 to 105mm and that's it, and only use the software built into Windows 11, (10 before that) I'm 63 so was a film user so still try to get things right first-time! You were not gabbing on and others are a lot worse x.
In terms of remote shutter, if you have a Canon you have the camera app. You can shoot, focus and set shutter speed, aperture and ISO there too. For free.
Take heart from the fact you give us a great deal of pleasure and inspiration. Talking about your thoughts is the best form of self help. Keep up the great work.
👍👍👍and for the record...this video was NOT a total waste....the photo of the boathouse with the rolling hills in the background, was a success. So.....no it was not a total waste and I say....it's good to engage with your audience, and the more you have to say to newbie's, the better. I am quite sure they appreciate the sacrifice, one great shot vs many, you just made, for all of them. Thank you for this video. I appreciated it.
Good stuff I enjoyed that, cheers 👍🏻. UV filters!! I have 2 x KASE magnetic MCUV filters, they obviously protect and double up as the magnet for stacking magnetic ND’s or Polariser, haven’t noticed any drop in image quality at all with these attached so win win for me. I also use Lee ND grads, top quality gear and I’d much prefer to get the shot as it happens plus I just love playing with filters 🤓😁.
Another use for a remote shutter release is If You do night photography with lightpainting. Then You usally want to light your subject from the side, and You ofte have to Walk quite a far Way away from the Camera in the dark. Then its really nice to be able to trigger the shutter remotely. However, many modern cameras today can be controlled with a smartphone.
You can get decent, cheap waterproof/windproof clothing if you know where to go. I highly recommend RAF surplus goretex overtrousers which you can buy for as little as £10.
Hi Henry, I see you now have 64k subscribers so you are clearly doing something right. I’m sure it is hard coming up with something every week, but there is no substitute for integrity and saying it how it is (for you at least). It has got you this far! I suspect many of us are on a similar journey with our photography so your ability to relate and vice versa is one of the keys. Cheers
I find a remote release useful for seascape photography when having to time the shutter with a wave. Otherwise, the self-timer does the job perfectly well.
Exactly my thought. I guess a remote would be useful in any kind of photography if a certain event suddenly happens that your photo could benefit from, e.g. some birds flying into the scene of your epic landscape shot.
Being out and not taking any photos is better than any day not being out :) I agree with a lot on your list and agree it is wise to purchase as good as you can or save up before you buy, that also helps temper impulse buys (which I have been guilty of on a number of occasions). Keep waffling on Henry! We love it!
On the subject of UV filters - I use them not because I'm worried about dropping the lens onto the front filter. I'm worried about scratches to the front element that are not easily repaired. I was a working photojournalist for many years and continue to photograph sports. I've often been in situations where the environment was not controlled - windy, dusty, forest fires, etc. Lots of crap was being thrown up into the air and onto the front end of my lenses. Even on the side of a field of play, turf pebbles, grass bits, and the like are kicked up or get onto my gear when they are sat down on a field. I'd much rather scratch up a UV filter in those conditions, than the front element of my lens. A lens hood isn't going to help in those situations.
Hi Henry, I'm originally from England but now live in Australia. Wonderful to watch you adventure and photograph the countryside of my youth. Keep it up!
I use a remote shutter release for long exposures ( over 30seconds) on Nikon DSLR. To avoid camera shake. It was only cheap mind you. I prefer this over cable as I don't keep having to access the camera ports. I could use smartphone app but then have to consider battery consumption for WiFi or Bluetooth.
Great tips all around. One thing not on this list that I'm guessing we've all been through is trying to find the right camera bag/backpack for our gear. Ease of access to the body, lenses, and accessories varies significantly, as does comfort when wearing it. I've gone through several as my gear changed over the years, and as my preferences for certain features changed.
Good shout about outdoor clothing. You do get what you pay for. The smart money, as usual is in the mid-range. But it can be night and day in terms of comfort and the most important thing of all, enjoying your time in the outdoors.
Use mirror up mode too ..helps with shutter shake Also use the screen in live view as that reduces camera shake I like your videos - you’re real and not up yourself
Another great video, I was there a few days ago, lovely quiet spot. Great views from where you parked as well, I parked there. Look forward to your videos each week 😊
I agree with every point, except the wireless remotes - from the landscape photographer point of view it's trully quite useless, but I personally have used them really many times. Mine are combined with the flash remote trigger and there is the option to sync the camera this way (basically you use the trensmitter instead of flash and you fire the other cameras same moment as the main one) - I used it several times when covering concerts and events, two remotely operated static cameras for the whole-scene images and one in my hands for the details...
Great vid but just one thing on UV filters. Their actual purpose is to reduce fogging in high UV environments... This was very important in Film photography as film is very sensitive to UV light.
4:07 "post processing" only applies and works for digital images. A typical B&W film has a dynamic range of more or less 5 fstops inbetween black and white. ND grads are a must. And being legacy and coming from film photography I try to get my image done in camera as much as I can.
Many photographers, like me for example, made your daft purchases... but... that's it.... it's too late... unless MPB accepts to take my daft purchases back... anyway, I've a beautiful tripod, and I'm satisfied of it. But the best argument is for me the use of protective filters that is really daft. Lenses are treated for avoiding reflects and flare... it's expensive... and we just put before that treated lense a simple piece of glass... that is daft indeed. Your videos show us Lake district... I've never gone there... and I find it absolutely beautiful. It reminds me east Corrèze and Cantal volcanoes where I live. The greatest difference is the lack of any firs and pines, beachtrees... Otherwise, it seems to be infinite. You haven't be lucky with light that day. Try to show us that region with a bright fall sun or with snow in winter... that should be magic ! Thank you and have nice shots that sunday.
Filters are a very valuable instrument in photography. Not everyone has digital cameras and computors. I still use film I agree with you sentiments on clothing, get the best you can afford or yous what you have untill you know what you want or need.
I use a remote when I take Nightscape photos, I can be lighting the foreground metres away from the camera. That is the only time, otherwise like you I do use shutter delay.
Old Russian proverb… “Cheap Pays Twice” ;) The sheep poking its head out of the ferns is GREAT! I just purchased a new Manfrotto Tripod on Amazon to replace the cheap light one I had been using for years that no longer works correctly, just needed to bite the bullet and just do it! Also people need to read the manual that was provided with the camera to have more knowledge of how it really works (Learn the Bells & Whistles). Your doing a GREAT SERVICE Sir. Your not just talking to the glass on your camera. Your passion comes through and I like it a lot. Cheers mate - 🍻
9:00 - Gorgeous photo. But I guess you don't put much stock in the oft-heard adage not to put a horizontal line right through the exact middle of the frame.. ? 😁
Lovely scenery and shots. I agree about the tripod. I often like to hike with just my camera on a sling strap and I've taken some great shots that way, but all the master pieces, I mean absolute best photos in my portfolio were taken using a tripod. One thing I think is a waste of money for landscape photography are battery grips. These are great if you're shooting wildlife or sports with a huge hulking lens, but for landscape they're more hindrance than help.
A lot of this seems to boil down to "you get what you pay for"; buy cheap stuff, get cheap results. Personally, I think its best to buy the cheap stuff when you're a beginner and you're learning, before investing in more expensive gear. Its like driving- buy (your kids) an old car that you (they) can learn to drive on before you start looking at the Mercedes.
I have never used or needed to use a lens hood but always use a good quality UV filter, especially after I dropped my 70-300 and destroyed the filter but saved the lens. I use a wired remote for exposures longer than 30 seconds to use the bulb setting or to control precisely when the shutter goes off although the 2 second delay is OK most of the time.
I like that you make sure every body knows up front that this is your opinion. I completely agree that dressing for the environment you'll be working in is not an area to cheap out in! Also, the cheap plastic "kit" tripods are not worth anything. Pay a little more and get a good tripod. I have a Manfrotto Element Traveler, and it works great...for me. Last thing is something I kinda disagree with. UV Filters for lens protection. I buy quality filters to protect the lens from rain, snow, salt, etc. As with any opinion, your mileage may vary! Thanks again for a great video!
Enjoy the chat and your thoughts. Plus it is always nice to enjoy the views of a good walk whilst sitting in a comfortable chair enjoying a cuppa ! All the best.
Great video Henry! I have a good use for my remote trigger... If I want to precisely time a longish exposure shot, for example if trying to photograph a wave as it goes out on a beach. Two second timer doesn't work for that. Plus my camera doesn't have a built in intervalometer. I would however advise using one with a wire; much cheaper.
I was going to say that (you beat me to it) but you don't need a £30 wireless remote you can get wired remotes that do the same for about £5 on the internet shopping sites.
whilst I would agree with you, I had a couple of occasions where I wanted a longer exposure, and the breeze did clank the controller about a bit. Also, I dunked a number of them in rivers by accident, killing them... this promoted me to purchase my remote one, which hasn't been dunked once thankfully!
@@christophersaul4993 😂😂😂😂 I am too, but so far so good and while it's in my hand I've found myself to be more careful. Of course, I did mindlessly stuff it into a pocket on a cold day, then had a frantic search everywhere thinking I had lost it... So it's not all rainbows and roses!!
Cable releases, I totally will use while I’m still shooting SLRs, I think mirrorless cameras you can get away with a timer. Wouldn’t use a wireless things though, they’ve not been all that reliable for me. Good tripod, will out last many cameras, I’m still on my second one, the first one couldn’t stand up to 60-70mph wind, which was my fault for not weighting it down properly.
Good advice Henry. First thing I did when buying filters was get them in the size for my biggest lens, then bought some step down rings for the smaller lenses. I do use a remote shutter release, but I didn't want to buy a wireless one, too expensive. I got a cheap corded one. What I use it for is taking pictures of fireworks, put camera in bulb mode and hold the button down on the remote when the rocket goes off and release it when the burst starts to fade. Works good for that, and that's about all I use it for. I was in the contract poultry business for 22 years and learned my lesson about buying cheap stuff. Buying cheap stuff almost always costs more in the long run than buying quality items. Always buy the best you can get, even if it costs a little more. Not buying by price, but by value, and the better value items always cost a little more than the cheapest priced item.
i do have an 82mm uv filter for when shooting in high wind with sand or salt water conditions. i rather have some pitting on the filter than my front element
This is a really good video, Henry. I like that you are open to other opinions based on the experiences and/or needs of other photographers, and that you welcome comments on that. Love this channel.
Lots of good advice, but I do use a remote wireless shutter a lot, although it’s probably quite niche - I shoot light-painted astro shots and use the wireless remote to allow me to move around in the field lighting up different parts of the foreground with a torch/light. I could just put the camera on a repeat interval timer, for 10 minutes, but this method with the remote just gives me much more control and results in fewer wasted shots. Also, each frame only has a single discreet light-painted area because i know when each frame is beginning and ending. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with your choices here - especially about good quality clothing!
Couple of alternative considerations Henry : a) Grad filters are great when there is extreme movement in the composition, bracketing isn't great in those types of situation b) saving weight : switch to magnetics ! I sold off my squares and went with the Kase Wolverine Magnetics after reading numerous positive reviews, I absolutely adore them. And because they are so easy to use I'll pull them out and pop one on far more often than my lazy arse would usually do. The case with 7-8 filters fits in my trouser or jacket pocket and it literally takes me under 10 secs to be ready to shoot. The main reason for the switch was the weight and size saving though. My Benro 5 filter kit weighted 992g (+ case) whereas the Kase Wolverines weighs 265g inc. case. (I've kept all my hiking /camping weights in the Packing Pro app for the past 6-7 yrs so have the exact weights of everything). c) UV filters are contentious and polarising. Suffice to say that for me there are very few situations where I'll use them (hoods are far better protection) that's in sandy/dusty/saltwater environments. d) Absolutely with you on presets - biggest waste of money on the internet ! Every photo is different and will still need adjusting so just create your own and save it for further use. e) My remote, Pluto Trigger, cost me US$125 ! However it's capable of so much more than your standard remote wit settings for Stills,Timelapses, Startrails, HDR, Video, Sound trigger, Laser trigger, Lightning trigger, Proximity. Droplet. Shake. Smile, Motion and simplifies the process for most of them. Not for everyone but works for me ! For simple long exposures I still use the in-camera 5 secs self timer.
Another great clip, Henry. And don't be critical of yourself and what you have to say: it is *always* valuable. There's never been a clip where I thought "too much." It's also wonderful to hear the word "daft" - it takes me back to my childhood in Manchester. If I had to distill-down your message it would be to two things: quality doesn't cost - it pays", and "think twice, buy once." I prefer a wired release purely because my X-S10 has a slightly arcane menu system for toggling the 2-second delay on and off. Plus I keep forgetting to do so. 🙄
I agree with a lot of this, but I still use UV filters to prevent grit from scratching the lens, or to keep off sea spray. I most cases I would use a timer for landscapes, but I'd use a remote trigger for seascapes or long exposures of traffic (or long exposures of anything that must start at certain conditions which are either random or beyond my control). Also GNDs are good if there's a lot of movement in the scene, such as having trees on the horizon and it's quite a windy day.
Shooting waves is a good use of a wireless shutter release. Set up the camera on the tripod with the right settings, then you can watch the sea taking shots on the moment. Timing waves with a 2s timer is tricky. Top video pal, all the best. 👍🏻
All good points which I agree with. About the remote shutters, most manufacturers have apps that will do that for free from your phone anyway, and you can change other settings via that rather than just a shutter button.
Using ND Grads in a long exposure is important for me. When using a 10 or 15 stop ND, having the grad in place allows greater control of any peaking or burning the sky. Running an exposure for many minutes has often helped by me using ND Grads. For normal single shots I don't really use them and will bracket if the scene needs it. Nothing wrong with buying ND Grads, just make sure you know what you want to do with them.....but that really applies to any kit, whether its lenses, bodies, flashes etc. We need to find our own journey and find our own personal styles to create the photos we want. If you dont know what you want to do you will probably not use the tools correctly.
Only issue with using wider nd filters on smaller lenses is that sometimes you need more than 1 adapter to get it to the right size and you always add glass in front of your glass and that can change the image.
I agree that presets are a waste. You should know the kind of lighting you like, why you like the coloring or lighting, and how to get there with post processing. It's not a "try this"/"try that" guessing game!
I always enjoy you nattering away! You natter about very interesting stuff. In the past, I’ve bought everything on your list except the grad filter! Call me the Wally!
Just to let you know Henry, your videos are being watched religiously by me. I think I speak for a ton of your follows as well. You are doing a great job. Keep being you, and the rest of us will live curiously thru your lens. Todd Whitmire
I think those remote shutters are for long exposures for SLR's with moving mirrors. Measure the light, mirror lock up, 2 second delay, then use the remote!!! belt and braces!!!
I don't have a wireless remote for my shutter, though there is an option on my phone with the Nikon SnapBridge app for that. But I do have a wired shutter release cable that I use frequently. Same overall concept, but this one plugs into the side of my camera & I'm basically tethered to it. It was only about $10 USD, so to me worth it. I don't have to worry about remembering to do a delay, or if that will cause me to miss a shot, even if it's just 2 seconds. When I've photographed fireworks displays, timing does matter, & I make really good use of my shutter release cable then. Otherwise, I think your opinions are pretty spot on. I do have a set of ND grad filters, which I don't always use, but they have come in handy and again, weren't prohibitively expensive. Granted, not the absolute most expensive filters, but they work well for me. And I did the cheap(er) tripod game, getting a couple (not all at once) from a U.S. big box electronics store, until I finally did more thorough research & upgraded to a sturdier one. I added a lighter-weight tripod for hiking, which I haven't really had a chance to try out yet. Even that, though, was not cheaply made, though not carbon-fiber price. Anyway, thanks for all your insights. And I did stay through to the end! :) Hope you have a wonderful day!
I wouldn't consider an UV filter unnecessary - it's protecting the lens against raindrops and dust. And the grad ND filter gives directly an impression how the image will look. For extreme contrasts definitely better than bracketing and fiddling around in the post processing. 🙂
7:40 - 99.9% of the time your camera / lens will fall while you're using it (i.e. with the lens cap off ready to shoot), I don't know anyone who puts the lens cap on in-between every shot, a filter is permanent and is there whether you're shooting or not.
Thanks for the run down of unnecessary gear but I would disagree on the UV filter. Water and dirt on the UV filter is much easier to clean without worrying about damage to the lens. I dropped my favorite 24mm lens on a stay in Iceland; UV filter shattered, lens element safe and sound.
Remote Shutter - Most, if not all camera manufacturers now have a phone app that you can trigger the shutter. Many of these also have live view, setting aperture etc. as well as moving the focus point. Makes much more sense as most of us have smart phones!
Disagree. My remote shutter doesn’t need any batteries or apps and had never failed me in over 10 years. Plus some of us leave the phone in the car and go out taking images to get away from the phone
Henry I have watched a number of your vids. When someone talks a lot of sense people will continue too listen. I am hoping to start to do more landscape photography in 2023. you are an inspiration to new and experienced photographers. Happy New Year to you and yours. Danny
Hi Henry, I must say talking to people is the best to gain knowledge, whether it's face to face or to a camera. By the Henry a good shot of the boat house and fell. See you on the next adventure!
Thanks Henry for sharing your thoughts and comments....I agree with your reasoning however when I started photography as a hobby I did rely on the salesperson at my local camera shop to guide me as to what I needed with the camera & lens...also I did not have a computer so there was no post processing for me.... Looking back there is gear that I didn't need or use so yes I should have spent the money on better quality glass....we all learn by our mistakes.... cheers from Australia 😀
8:00 UV filters (high quality) protect your lenses from blowing sand and salt water when you are shooting beach or deserts. It is also much easier to wipe water drops off of a flat UV filter than it is to wipe water/rain from your lens element and possibly scratch your lens coatings.
Great video Henry ! The main reason I use my remote wireless shutter is if i'm putting myself in the composition. Some of the wireless shutters have several hundred ft range and can certainly be handy for that. Otherwise yeah, not much use for them when you can simply set a 2 sec shutter delay if you're worried about shaking the camera. I picked mine up for only $30 CDN (a cheapie off Amazon which works great) which is likely around 15-20 quid. Just thought as well once in a while I do a family portrait of my family with myself included and the wireless shutter is amazing for that since I'm not having to run back and forth from the camera and hope I make it in time lol !
I mainly shoot Seascape and a remote or wired trigger are an absolute must for me, when using the timer you don't have the same control over timing the shot to coincide with the wave. I tend not to spend too much on them as they can get lost or drag in the water when shooting low down.
Some great tips on purchases here. I’ve never bought a UV filter as putting a cheap bit of glass in front a a nice quality lens does not seem right , may as well not use nice lenses. Maybe I’m wrong ?
Hey all. Really appreciate your support. Please be aware of scammers throughout all TH-cam comments on my videos (and other creators for that matter). They pose as me and offer ‘free gifts’. I never offer anything for free like this or ask you to contact me. Sorry about this. I wish TH-cam could do more as it’s proper hard for me to keep on top of as I work alone. Cheers 🙏🏼
Thanks for the heads up mate, but i already had a good idea of it being scammers.. They are the scum of the Earth
To be fare, most of us can spot these scammers a mile off now they’ve been around for so long now that we’re all getting to know the platter better than they do, there are still very a few that they manage to net of course so thanks for the heads up.
seems to be a regular thing here lately! Thanks for the warning
Curious if you have had any purchases that have been the opposite - ie. you have bought something expensive that you regretted or that wasn’t worthwhile?
Hi Henry yes I got one on todays video 29/12/22 thanks for the tips Pikles
Expensive outdoor clothing also makes you look cool, which is just as important as taking cool pictures.
A capable teacher teaches by his words. A competent teacher teaches by example. A compelling teacher teaches by his words, backed by his example. You are a capable, competent, compelling teacher, Mr. Turner!
Cheers Tim!!!
For me, a UV filter is not for protection from impact as I have never dropped my camera. It's to save the front element from cleaning and accidentally scratching it while doing so.
It seems like they come in handy when there is just a slight drizzle out and you just want to get the drops off your lense. I've seen several photographers just wipe it before I caught on everyone was using a UV filter.
I understand the theory but 1/ you still have to clean the filter and 2/ you can scratch the hell out of your front element and it has NO EFFECT (almost never) on your photo! In fact, I go out of my way to buy scratched, scuffed, used lenses at BARGAIN prices from KEH and Adorama and MPB. I have several DECADES of experience with this but if you don't believe me... ask Tony Northrup th-cam.com/video/YcZkCnPs45s/w-d-xo.html
@@timd4524 I think TH-camrs miss the point of UV/Protector filters and talk about dropping the camera. After I checked the front element replacement price for my Canon lenses, I decided it's better to go with a good-quality filter.
@@sebastianberes Yeah, with UV filters (a necessity due to a lack of good lens coatings) in the past and clear filters (mostly B+W) at present, the front element of the lenses that I bought for over four decades are just like new. IMO, it is the best way to prevent micro-abrasion due to decades of cleaning.
I’m not going say I don’t use them but I’ve never really thought that buying a $1500-$3000 lens and then putting a $100 or less piece of glass in front of it made any sense. I do use them but only in places like a sandy environment with lots of wind or at the ocean if there is wind or with sand or sea spray that could harm the front element
Mate you are NEVER boring. I always look forward to your next video. Talk away ... Enthusiasm always shines through.
Great video! The one for me that still makes sense is the remote shutter. I agree with your wireless point. I still use a wired one which was maybe $20 usd on Amazon. It also had a timer and intervelometor function. The main reason for me is the bulb function on the remote because the remote shutter has a lock and a timer.
No, you are not talking too much. You are right, we do not need too much gear ! We need ideas ! Thank you for your video 👍
I agree with every one except the remote release. When I need to take a group shot with me in it, I use my D7200. I don't use the timer or intervelometer because you've always got someone goofing off or not paying attention. With the remote, I can wait until everyone is ready, and then snap the picture. When I want to take a long exposure, I use my D850 with the remote cable. I liked to never have found where it attaches to the camera, but now that I have I use it alot instead of going through the menu and setting the delay, and then going back and taking it off. Just screw it in and I'm done. Excellent video by the way. Confirms what I've believed for years. Especially the UV/Clear filter. I stopped when I realized it was ever so slightly screwing up some of my favorite shots.
Another way to prevent camera motion when pressing the shutter is using the cellphone. WMU is very straightforward.
I disagree about the remote shutter release. I do a lot of seascape photography, and using 2 or 10 second delay is useless if trying to capture particular wave actions, especially if long exposures are involved. The remote release is essential to get the exact moment. I do agree that buying a “remote” release is a waste, because many (most?) cameras these days allow remote control from an app on your phone. I actually have a cheap cable release so I don’t have to mess around setting up Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connections.
Also true on a windy day when photographing closeups of wildflowers. You need to hit the shutter at that exact moment the wind stops. Two seconds later the flower may be bouncing around again.
Henry, don't change a thing! Your presentations are just fine, a nice mix of technical and practical information.
Great discussion. I agree with all you have said and gained my point of view after spending for things I did not need. BUT ... a remote IS NEEDED when your camera is on a tripod and timing counts ... for example capturing a wave breaking over a rock. Using a 2 second timer DOES NOT work in this case.
I agree with everyone who's been saying basically "Keep babbling on, Henry!" You're teaching and I love the way you get your points across. I use a wired remote release for focus stacking and close-ups just to make sure the shutter is tripped at the exact right moment. All other times I use a three-second delay. My feeling on UV filters is this: You pay top dollar for a lens that's as sharp as can be. Why put a $50 piece of glass on the front if you're not trying to optimize the image? Plus, there's a lot more that can break on a lens these days other than the front element if you drop it. I have a rider on my home insurance for my camera gear. Never had to use it yet but it gives a boost to the old peace of mind. Keep making these wonderful videos Henry!
👍 I just stumbled across your video and watched it with a lot of pleasure. You are really a likable guy and I enjoyed your „flood of words“. I‘m looking forward now to binge watch all of your videos ☺️ Best greeting from Germany ✌️
I agree with Sebastian about UV filters. They’re not for impact protection; they’re for spray and sand and such on wet windy days, and so forth. Of course you need to buy good ones, and replace them from time to time.
Henry, this video was very good. Heartily agree about MPB guys!
You have some good points, like not buying “pre-set”.
Having said that, a remote release, wired or wireless, is handy to have,
1. it allows the photographer to time the shutter release time more precisely. With in-camera delay release, like 2 seconds, could feel like eternity if one is shooting something that is stationary.
2. A remote control also allows the photographer to fire a camera (on tripod) that is set up higher than arm reach or any remote camera setup.
Remote control is not only for reducing camera vibration.
2) I wanted to photograph some buildings in NYC, but there was a fence of about 3 feet and it wouldn't let me take a clean shot, (my lens was 82mm, and the holes in the fence were 2 inches). I put my camera on my monopod and raised it as high as it would go, so I could get over the fence, see my target through the Vari-Angle Touch Screen and with my remote shutter release I would focus and shoot.
I use a wireless remote shutter release for night photography and astrophotography where I need a better intervalometer than the built-in.
Agreed with all except #7 I do a ton of seascapes so remote shutter is a life safer for me.. when you're standing in the water, waves crashing around you and you need to capture that exact moment and you'r shooting anywhere from 1/4 of a sec to 1 sec Delayed timer is definitely a no go.
I use my remote shutter when photographing fireworks, that way I don't have to guess when the good ones are coming in advance, and I don't get a sore arm with camera in portrait mode holding the shutter button during 10 minute displays and risking bumping the camera. Learnt that one the hard way so appreciate my remote shutter in these situations.
Thoroughly enjoyed your musings on this video, always great to see your pictures of course, but equally good to share in your experience, you worry too much
In defence of remote shutters. If you get a decent one, it can have way more options than a build in one in your camera. Some have more control over exposure settings, variable interval times and multiple cycles than some cameras offer. Helpful with star trailing or the day-to-night type time lapses. Also if you're using older DSLRs, some don't even have build in option at all.
Another example -skittish animals. You can set up your gear on tripod, leave some snacks nearby as bait, walk away and snap from the distance.
And last, but not least -bulb mode. If you're doing super long exposures, self timer just won't do, and most cameras have 30sec limit without bulb.
Good tips anyway. Thanks and keep it up.
I find the remote shutter absolutely indispensable for bracketed panoramas. Sure lock-up exposure delay exists, but when you're taking 21 shots per pano (6 around + 1 up with 3 brackets) saving 1 or 2 seconds per shot to avoid mirror shock / vibration is super useful. Even more critical for exposure stacked HDRs because slight variations can destroy a photo.
The remote shutter is great when you're shooting something that requires timing, like waves crashing or animals moving. You don't have to worry about camera shake or the timer.
I came here to say just that. Specifically with regards to landscape photography I use it to capture the moment when the shadows of the clouds are in the right place, illuminating what I want illuminated and shading what I want shaded.
Yes, I was going to say the same, anything that is moving, .... could be waiting for a person or a boat or a bird to be in a certain precise position.
You are right. Older APN haven't any time lapse function, and require a remote system to trigger it , even with a wire, it doesn't matter. (Nikon D300s with a good MC-36 trigger wired system ).
Fortunately, since that time, I purchased another camera... but sometimes use my old MC-36 that does a perfect job.
In the old days, you'd use a shutter release cable. I suppose IR remotes fulfil the same function today.
Also, long exposure/night photography, both to minimize shake and so you don't have to be stand around in that exact spot for so long.
Respectivefully disagree about remote. The Sony remote can either trigger shutter or change focus. The focus change makes it very easy to focus stack without touching the camera.
I do a cost benefit analysis whenever I buy gear - hiking, camping, photography.
Filters: I once dropped my camera climbing over a fallen tree. Had a lens hood, lens cap & polarizer on it. All three cracked. My camera broke so I could not mount a lens anymore. My lens survived and I still use it on my Z with the adapter.
Presets: I only find them useful when doing a series to maintain the look over the whole thing.
I am a firm believer in rent first. If it turns out you don't like/need it, you aren't out the money.
Hi Henry...am 75 disabled..cant walk on uneven ground..so I follow most of your videos to gain knowledge...I spend a lot of time in the Taurus mountains Turkey..on a monster quad bike beautiful part of the world.....gets me to places I can't hike to...and places most people will never see..oh..the uv filter.. I started with a kowa 35mm early 70s..the movie blow up got me going..my local camera club in kings lynn Norfolk.. I was told back then..don't waist your money on them..only thing you need in front of your lens is the subject ...keep going mate..
Henry, clear filters serve a huge purpose, not for impact so much, but rather to protect your very expensive coatings on your lenses. Much better to clean the filter on a regular basis than your very expensive lens. If you have ever had an expensive pair of sunglasses that you clean on a regular basis, you will notice that every time you clean them, you gradually break down the coatings. Also if one ever had an abrasive bit on land on the filter and you cleaned it without a blower, I think we can all agree that the scratch on the filter would be more accepted than the lens.
As always, a very interesting video, everyone can find something for themselves, thanks for each of your videos,regards
I agree with everything you've said I have a Lumix S1 and one Lens the 24 to 105mm and that's it, and only use the software built into Windows 11, (10 before that) I'm 63 so was a film user so still try to get things right first-time! You were not gabbing on and others are a lot worse x.
In terms of remote shutter, if you have a Canon you have the camera app. You can shoot, focus and set shutter speed, aperture and ISO there too. For free.
Take heart from the fact you give us a great deal of pleasure and inspiration.
Talking about your thoughts is the best form of self help.
Keep up the great work.
👍👍👍and for the record...this video was NOT a total waste....the photo of the boathouse with the rolling hills in the background, was a success. So.....no it was not a total waste and I say....it's good to engage with your audience, and the more you have to say to newbie's, the better. I am quite sure they appreciate the sacrifice, one great shot vs many, you just made, for all of them. Thank you for this video. I appreciated it.
Good stuff I enjoyed that, cheers 👍🏻. UV filters!! I have 2 x KASE magnetic MCUV filters, they obviously protect and double up as the magnet for stacking magnetic ND’s or Polariser, haven’t noticed any drop in image quality at all with these attached so win win for me. I also use Lee ND grads, top quality gear and I’d much prefer to get the shot as it happens plus I just love playing with filters 🤓😁.
Another use for a remote shutter release is If You do night photography with lightpainting. Then You usally want to light your subject from the side, and You ofte have to Walk quite a far Way away from the Camera in the dark. Then its really nice to be able to trigger the shutter remotely.
However, many modern cameras today can be controlled with a smartphone.
You can get decent, cheap waterproof/windproof clothing if you know where to go. I highly recommend RAF surplus goretex overtrousers which you can buy for as little as £10.
Hi Henry, I see you now have 64k subscribers so you are clearly doing something right. I’m sure it is hard coming up with something every week, but there is no substitute for integrity and saying it how it is (for you at least). It has got you this far! I suspect many of us are on a similar journey with our photography so your ability to relate and vice versa is one of the keys. Cheers
I find a remote release useful for seascape photography when having to time the shutter with a wave. Otherwise, the self-timer does the job perfectly well.
Exactly…and I do somehow remember someone spoke about this in one of his videos 😊. Although it was a wired remote if I recall correctly.
Exactly my thought. I guess a remote would be useful in any kind of photography if a certain event suddenly happens that your photo could benefit from, e.g. some birds flying into the scene of your epic landscape shot.
You can use a mobile phone for remote control in some cameras.
Does no one use a shutter release cable any more???
Being out and not taking any photos is better than any day not being out :) I agree with a lot on your list and agree it is wise to purchase as good as you can or save up before you buy, that also helps temper impulse buys (which I have been guilty of on a number of occasions). Keep waffling on Henry! We love it!
Brilliant just ordered a step up ring ,can't believe I didn't think of it before.
On the subject of UV filters - I use them not because I'm worried about dropping the lens onto the front filter. I'm worried about scratches to the front element that are not easily repaired. I was a working photojournalist for many years and continue to photograph sports. I've often been in situations where the environment was not controlled - windy, dusty, forest fires, etc. Lots of crap was being thrown up into the air and onto the front end of my lenses. Even on the side of a field of play, turf pebbles, grass bits, and the like are kicked up or get onto my gear when they are sat down on a field. I'd much rather scratch up a UV filter in those conditions, than the front element of my lens. A lens hood isn't going to help in those situations.
Hi Henry, I'm originally from England but now live in Australia. Wonderful to watch you adventure and photograph the countryside of my youth. Keep it up!
Lots of great advice there, thanks again 👍
I use a remote shutter release for long exposures ( over 30seconds) on Nikon DSLR. To avoid camera shake. It was only cheap mind you. I prefer this over cable as I don't keep having to access the camera ports. I could use smartphone app but then have to consider battery consumption for WiFi or Bluetooth.
Great tips all around. One thing not on this list that I'm guessing we've all been through is trying to find the right camera bag/backpack for our gear. Ease of access to the body, lenses, and accessories varies significantly, as does comfort when wearing it. I've gone through several as my gear changed over the years, and as my preferences for certain features changed.
Watched all the way through. Good stuff. As a beginner with GAS - definitely useful advice. Thanks for the great content!
Good shout about outdoor clothing. You do get what you pay for. The smart money, as usual is in the mid-range. But it can be night and day in terms of comfort and the most important thing of all, enjoying your time in the outdoors.
great video very entertaining. I find my remote shutter release really valuable, would not do astro or landscape without it.
Use mirror up mode too ..helps with shutter shake
Also use the screen in live view as that reduces camera shake
I like your videos - you’re real and not up yourself
Another great video, I was there a few days ago, lovely quiet spot.
Great views from where you parked as well, I parked there.
Look forward to your videos each week 😊
I agree with every point, except the wireless remotes - from the landscape photographer point of view it's trully quite useless, but I personally have used them really many times. Mine are combined with the flash remote trigger and there is the option to sync the camera this way (basically you use the trensmitter instead of flash and you fire the other cameras same moment as the main one) - I used it several times when covering concerts and events, two remotely operated static cameras for the whole-scene images and one in my hands for the details...
Great vid but just one thing on UV filters. Their actual purpose is to reduce fogging in high UV environments... This was very important in Film photography as film is very sensitive to UV light.
4:07 "post processing" only applies and works for digital images. A typical B&W film has a dynamic range of more or less 5 fstops inbetween black and white. ND grads are a must. And being legacy and coming from film photography I try to get my image done in camera as much as I can.
Many photographers, like me for example, made your daft purchases... but... that's it.... it's too late... unless MPB accepts to take my daft purchases back... anyway, I've a beautiful tripod, and I'm satisfied of it. But the best argument is for me the use of protective filters that is really daft. Lenses are treated for avoiding reflects and flare... it's expensive... and we just put before that treated lense a simple piece of glass... that is daft indeed.
Your videos show us Lake district... I've never gone there... and I find it absolutely beautiful. It reminds me east Corrèze and Cantal volcanoes where I live. The greatest difference is the lack of any firs and pines, beachtrees... Otherwise, it seems to be infinite.
You haven't be lucky with light that day. Try to show us that region with a bright fall sun or with snow in winter... that should be magic ! Thank you and have nice shots that sunday.
Filters are a very valuable instrument in photography. Not everyone has digital cameras and computors.
I still use film
I agree with you sentiments on clothing, get the best you can afford or yous what you have untill you know what you want or need.
I use a remote when I take Nightscape photos, I can be lighting the foreground metres away from the camera. That is the only time, otherwise like you I do use shutter delay.
Old Russian proverb… “Cheap Pays Twice” ;) The sheep poking its head out of the ferns is GREAT! I just purchased a new Manfrotto Tripod on Amazon to replace the cheap light one I had been using for years that no longer works correctly, just needed to bite the bullet and just do it! Also people need to read the manual that was provided with the camera to have more knowledge of how it really works (Learn the Bells & Whistles). Your doing a GREAT SERVICE Sir. Your not just talking to the glass on your camera. Your passion comes through and I like it a lot. Cheers mate - 🍻
9:00 - Gorgeous photo. But I guess you don't put much stock in the oft-heard adage not to put a horizontal line right through the exact middle of the frame.. ? 😁
I mostly put on UV filter while I store my camera or travel with camera. For protection . When I take photos, I take it off so I get better quality
Thanks for the tips. Many are very useful, Good luck, New cool photos.
Lovely scenery and shots. I agree about the tripod. I often like to hike with just my camera on a sling strap and I've taken some great shots that way, but all the master pieces, I mean absolute best photos in my portfolio were taken using a tripod. One thing I think is a waste of money for landscape photography are battery grips. These are great if you're shooting wildlife or sports with a huge hulking lens, but for landscape they're more hindrance than help.
A lot of this seems to boil down to "you get what you pay for"; buy cheap stuff, get cheap results.
Personally, I think its best to buy the cheap stuff when you're a beginner and you're learning, before investing in more expensive gear. Its like driving- buy (your kids) an old car that you (they) can learn to drive on before you start looking at the Mercedes.
Watched to the end buddy. Very interesting! Thumbs up!!
I have never used or needed to use a lens hood but always use a good quality UV filter, especially after I dropped my 70-300 and destroyed the filter but saved the lens. I use a wired remote for exposures longer than 30 seconds to use the bulb setting or to control precisely when the shutter goes off although the 2 second delay is OK most of the time.
I like that you make sure every body knows up front that this is your opinion. I completely agree that dressing for the environment you'll be working in is not an area to cheap out in! Also, the cheap plastic "kit" tripods are not worth anything. Pay a little more and get a good tripod. I have a Manfrotto Element Traveler, and it works great...for me. Last thing is something I kinda disagree with. UV Filters for lens protection. I buy quality filters to protect the lens from rain, snow, salt, etc. As with any opinion, your mileage may vary! Thanks again for a great video!
Enjoy the chat and your thoughts. Plus it is always nice to enjoy the views of a good walk whilst sitting in a comfortable chair enjoying a cuppa ! All the best.
Great video Henry! I have a good use for my remote trigger... If I want to precisely time a longish exposure shot, for example if trying to photograph a wave as it goes out on a beach. Two second timer doesn't work for that. Plus my camera doesn't have a built in intervalometer. I would however advise using one with a wire; much cheaper.
I was going to say that (you beat me to it) but you don't need a £30 wireless remote you can get wired remotes that do the same for about £5 on the internet shopping sites.
whilst I would agree with you, I had a couple of occasions where I wanted a longer exposure, and the breeze did clank the controller about a bit. Also, I dunked a number of them in rivers by accident, killing them... this promoted me to purchase my remote one, which hasn't been dunked once thankfully!
@@sandyknight3910 Will you agree with me if/when you dunk your remote one? I'm pretty sure remote ones are dunkable 🤣🤣
@@christophersaul4993 😂😂😂😂 I am too, but so far so good and while it's in my hand I've found myself to be more careful. Of course, I did mindlessly stuff it into a pocket on a cold day, then had a frantic search everywhere thinking I had lost it... So it's not all rainbows and roses!!
Cable releases, I totally will use while I’m still shooting SLRs, I think mirrorless cameras you can get away with a timer. Wouldn’t use a wireless things though, they’ve not been all that reliable for me. Good tripod, will out last many cameras, I’m still on my second one, the first one couldn’t stand up to 60-70mph wind, which was my fault for not weighting it down properly.
Good advice Henry. First thing I did when buying filters was get them in the size for my biggest lens, then bought some step down rings for the smaller lenses. I do use a remote shutter release, but I didn't want to buy a wireless one, too expensive. I got a cheap corded one. What I use it for is taking pictures of fireworks, put camera in bulb mode and hold the button down on the remote when the rocket goes off and release it when the burst starts to fade. Works good for that, and that's about all I use it for.
I was in the contract poultry business for 22 years and learned my lesson about buying cheap stuff. Buying cheap stuff almost always costs more in the long run than buying quality items. Always buy the best you can get, even if it costs a little more. Not buying by price, but by value, and the better value items always cost a little more than the cheapest priced item.
i do have an 82mm uv filter for when shooting in high wind with sand or salt water conditions. i rather have some pitting on the filter than my front element
This is a really good video, Henry. I like that you are open to other opinions based on the experiences and/or needs of other photographers, and that you welcome comments on that. Love this channel.
Lots of good advice, but I do use a remote wireless shutter a lot, although it’s probably quite niche - I shoot light-painted astro shots and use the wireless remote to allow me to move around in the field lighting up different parts of the foreground with a torch/light. I could just put the camera on a repeat interval timer, for 10 minutes, but this method with the remote just gives me much more control and results in fewer wasted shots. Also, each frame only has a single discreet light-painted area because i know when each frame is beginning and ending. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with your choices here - especially about good quality clothing!
Couple of alternative considerations Henry :
a) Grad filters are great when there is extreme movement in the composition, bracketing isn't great in those types of situation
b) saving weight : switch to magnetics ! I sold off my squares and went with the Kase Wolverine Magnetics after reading numerous positive reviews, I absolutely adore them. And because they are so easy to use I'll pull them out and pop one on far more often than my lazy arse would usually do. The case with 7-8 filters fits in my trouser or jacket pocket and it literally takes me under 10 secs to be ready to shoot. The main reason for the switch was the weight and size saving though. My Benro 5 filter kit weighted 992g (+ case) whereas the Kase Wolverines weighs 265g inc. case. (I've kept all my hiking /camping weights in the Packing Pro app for the past 6-7 yrs so have the exact weights of everything).
c) UV filters are contentious and polarising. Suffice to say that for me there are very few situations where I'll use them (hoods are far better protection) that's in sandy/dusty/saltwater environments.
d) Absolutely with you on presets - biggest waste of money on the internet ! Every photo is different and will still need adjusting so just create your own and save it for further use.
e) My remote, Pluto Trigger, cost me US$125 ! However it's capable of so much more than your standard remote wit settings for Stills,Timelapses, Startrails, HDR, Video, Sound trigger, Laser trigger, Lightning trigger, Proximity. Droplet. Shake. Smile, Motion and simplifies the process for most of them. Not for everyone but works for me ! For simple long exposures I still use the in-camera 5 secs self timer.
Another great clip, Henry. And don't be critical of yourself and what you have to say: it is *always* valuable. There's never been a clip where I thought "too much." It's also wonderful to hear the word "daft" - it takes me back to my childhood in Manchester. If I had to distill-down your message it would be to two things: quality doesn't cost - it pays", and "think twice, buy once." I prefer a wired release purely because my X-S10 has a slightly arcane menu system for toggling the 2-second delay on and off. Plus I keep forgetting to do so. 🙄
I agree with a lot of this, but I still use UV filters to prevent grit from scratching the lens, or to keep off sea spray. I most cases I would use a timer for landscapes, but I'd use a remote trigger for seascapes or long exposures of traffic (or long exposures of anything that must start at certain conditions which are either random or beyond my control). Also GNDs are good if there's a lot of movement in the scene, such as having trees on the horizon and it's quite a windy day.
Shooting waves is a good use of a wireless shutter release. Set up the camera on the tripod with the right settings, then you can watch the sea taking shots on the moment. Timing waves with a 2s timer is tricky. Top video pal, all the best. 👍🏻
All good points which I agree with. About the remote shutters, most manufacturers have apps that will do that for free from your phone anyway, and you can change other settings via that rather than just a shutter button.
Using ND Grads in a long exposure is important for me. When using a 10 or 15 stop ND, having the grad in place allows greater control of any peaking or burning the sky. Running an exposure for many minutes has often helped by me using ND Grads. For normal single shots I don't really use them and will bracket if the scene needs it. Nothing wrong with buying ND Grads, just make sure you know what you want to do with them.....but that really applies to any kit, whether its lenses, bodies, flashes etc. We need to find our own journey and find our own personal styles to create the photos we want. If you dont know what you want to do you will probably not use the tools correctly.
Only issue with using wider nd filters on smaller lenses is that sometimes you need more than 1 adapter to get it to the right size and you always add glass in front of your glass and that can change the image.
Bought an adapter and a few LOMO lenses for my Sony NEX-7, Daft.. urk
I agree that presets are a waste. You should know the kind of lighting you like, why you like the coloring or lighting, and how to get there with post processing. It's not a "try this"/"try that" guessing game!
Henry I love your videos, when are you coming to Australia
I always enjoy you nattering away! You natter about very interesting stuff. In the past, I’ve bought everything on your list except the grad filter! Call me the Wally!
Just to let you know Henry, your videos are being watched religiously by me. I think I speak for a ton of your follows as well. You are doing a great job. Keep being you, and the rest of us will live curiously thru your lens.
Todd Whitmire
Remote shutter release: One use would be photographing waves when you need to time the shot. Or many cameras have a remote app on your phone.
I think those remote shutters are for long exposures for SLR's with moving mirrors. Measure the light, mirror lock up, 2 second delay, then use the remote!!! belt and braces!!!
Henry, you are right on some, however i do use a wireless remote for long expos so not to touch it as not got them expensive cameras, lol
I don't have a wireless remote for my shutter, though there is an option on my phone with the Nikon SnapBridge app for that. But I do have a wired shutter release cable that I use frequently. Same overall concept, but this one plugs into the side of my camera & I'm basically tethered to it. It was only about $10 USD, so to me worth it. I don't have to worry about remembering to do a delay, or if that will cause me to miss a shot, even if it's just 2 seconds. When I've photographed fireworks displays, timing does matter, & I make really good use of my shutter release cable then. Otherwise, I think your opinions are pretty spot on. I do have a set of ND grad filters, which I don't always use, but they have come in handy and again, weren't prohibitively expensive. Granted, not the absolute most expensive filters, but they work well for me. And I did the cheap(er) tripod game, getting a couple (not all at once) from a U.S. big box electronics store, until I finally did more thorough research & upgraded to a sturdier one. I added a lighter-weight tripod for hiking, which I haven't really had a chance to try out yet. Even that, though, was not cheaply made, though not carbon-fiber price. Anyway, thanks for all your insights. And I did stay through to the end! :) Hope you have a wonderful day!
I wouldn't consider an UV filter unnecessary - it's protecting the lens against raindrops and dust. And the grad ND filter gives directly an impression how the image will look. For extreme contrasts definitely better than bracketing and fiddling around in the post processing. 🙂
7:40 - 99.9% of the time your camera / lens will fall while you're using it (i.e. with the lens cap off ready to shoot), I don't know anyone who puts the lens cap on in-between every shot, a filter is permanent and is there whether you're shooting or not.
Thanks for the run down of unnecessary gear but I would disagree on the UV filter. Water and dirt on the UV filter is much easier to clean without worrying about damage to the lens. I dropped my favorite 24mm lens on a stay in Iceland; UV filter shattered, lens element safe and sound.
Remote Shutter - Most, if not all camera manufacturers now have a phone app that you can trigger the shutter. Many of these also have live view, setting aperture etc. as well as moving the focus point. Makes much more sense as most of us have smart phones!
Good point actually!!
Disagree. My remote shutter doesn’t need any batteries or apps and had never failed me in over 10 years. Plus some of us leave the phone in the car and go out taking images to get away from the phone
@@davidpearson3304 If I left my phone in the car it wouldn't be there when I came back :)
Canon charge EXTRA for a lens hood that is the reason I use a UV filter - but get a decent one that is optically distortion free :)
Henry I have watched a number of your vids. When someone talks a lot of sense people will continue too listen. I am hoping to start to do more landscape photography in 2023. you are an inspiration to new and experienced photographers. Happy New Year to you and yours. Danny
Hi Henry, I must say talking to people is the best to gain knowledge, whether it's face to face or to a camera. By the Henry a good shot of the boat house and fell.
See you on the next adventure!
Thanks Henry for sharing your thoughts and comments....I agree with your reasoning however when I started photography as a hobby I did rely on the salesperson at my local camera shop to guide me as to what I needed with the camera & lens...also I did not have a computer so there was no post processing for me.... Looking back there is gear that I didn't need or use so yes I should have spent the money on better quality glass....we all learn by our mistakes.... cheers from Australia 😀
8:00 UV filters (high quality) protect your lenses from blowing sand and salt water when you are shooting beach or deserts. It is also much easier to wipe water drops off of a flat UV filter than it is to wipe water/rain from your lens element and possibly scratch your lens coatings.
Great video Henry ! The main reason I use my remote wireless shutter is if i'm putting myself in the composition. Some of the wireless shutters have several hundred ft range and can certainly be handy for that. Otherwise yeah, not much use for them when you can simply set a 2 sec shutter delay if you're worried about shaking the camera. I picked mine up for only $30 CDN (a cheapie off Amazon which works great) which is likely around 15-20 quid. Just thought as well once in a while I do a family portrait of my family with myself included and the wireless shutter is amazing for that since I'm not having to run back and forth from the camera and hope I make it in time lol !
I mainly shoot Seascape and a remote or wired trigger are an absolute must for me, when using the timer you don't have the same control over timing the shot to coincide with the wave. I tend not to spend too much on them as they can get lost or drag in the water when shooting low down.
Some great tips on purchases here. I’ve never bought a UV filter as putting a cheap bit of glass in front a a nice quality lens does not seem right , may as well not use nice lenses. Maybe I’m wrong ?