Was at the same today - best "hint" I have for spot-welds (on anything) is to use a cone-bit in your cordless - dunno why but they last forever drilling spot welds, they do a brilliant job of dealing with them, they don't punch through the lower layer so re-welding is easier & they make the job a doddle & a lot faster. I used use proper spot-weld bits (they break constantly) and tried every combo of regular drill-bits, none come close to being as efficient as a boggo, cheapo cone-bit. Best part is it seems to have zero effect on the bit - I'm still using the same bit after countless welds drilled. You also don't need to muck about with pilot-holes, or the bit skidding about - it just eats into the weld, nice & fast. When you get that ^^ made back up in fresh steel, give it a good coating with fiberglass filler before priming etc etc - the fiberglass stops water just eating back into the area - bang on a really good epoxy 2-pack primer after the fiberglass, you can do what you like after that - won't rust. :-)
Hi James, I'll try the cone bits for sure 😊 you seem to know what you're doing I'm surprised you're watching these videos 😅 have you got a landrover yourself?
@@mozsmancave2331 Bought my first new one in 1984 - 2.25 petrol... been at them ever since. Doing a '97 Defender currently - chopping a van into a pick-up from the axles up - ball of sh1te into very all right - nut & bolt job. They're a disease. :-)
i might use the step drill bit to drill out my spot welds as suggested but i was going to ask what size drill bits you used as i might try that also,thanks
I used a cobalt 5mm but you can use any size drill bit similar to the size of the spot welds, just make sure it's not standard HSS or it will dull quickly
Doing the same thing now. I ended up getting an air drill today with a set of cobalt drill bits... going through spot welds much faster than with my Makita cordless!
@@mozsmancave2331 they last longer but only if I’m spraying them with a penetrant while drilling. Not really worth the extra cash. What amp and wheel size is your angle grinder? Mine is a 6 amp 4” I believe and only tries to catch me on fire without cutting a damn thing lol. I need to cut the inner part of the left footwell where it meets the tunnel and the guard doesn’t work worth a damn.
@@mozsmancave2331 mine cuts well enough, my problem is the guard is for grinding and not cutting lol. I was able to get the drivers side (right side) out today and believe it or not, the replacement Britpart footwell fit in perfectly! I haven’t had the bulkhead issues you’ve got though. That said, the upper passenger flange looks like Swiss cheese from shoddy welding and rust.
Update: I purchased a Milwaulkee Red Helix titanium impact driver bit, model 48-89-4607 in 5/32 (no idea what size it is in Brit speak lol). Paired with my 18v impact driver, it goes through spot welds in a bout 10 seconds each. It literally melts through them almost before I can spray them with oil. I was also wondering what voltage your welder runs on? Again, I don't have any idea what you use in the UK but in the States we use 110/120-220/240v electrical in the house. Thank you sir!
I would have replaced that entire bulkhead. It's a too far gone. But that would not make a good video so thanks for the upload.
At the time (in lockdown) I had more time than I had money so replacement wasn't an option 👍🏻
Very helpful. I am about to do the same on my ‘63 109.
Looking much better.....only 1999 perforations to weld up and you'll no longer have a Tetley teabag :)
It'll soon be solid 😁 still a long way to go though
Nice job! I like the idea of welding the repair piece to the footwell. Keeps everything inline.
Cheers! It's a bit backwards but I think it's the better way of doing it 😊
What amp MIG welder are you using ? And make ? Thx Matt
It's an SIP multi process machine, I think gas mig is 200amp
Good stuff. Very easy to watch and follow. Keep up the good vids.
Thank you! New video coming very soon 😁 slightly different style, let me know what you think.
Nice video man!
Just in the process of cutting mine out and it’s vertical identical. Even a repair patch in the same area of the gearbox tunnel 👍🏻
Cheers mate, glad it's helped!
Was at the same today - best "hint" I have for spot-welds (on anything) is to use a cone-bit in your cordless - dunno why but they last forever drilling spot welds, they do a brilliant job of dealing with them, they don't punch through the lower layer so re-welding is easier & they make the job a doddle & a lot faster.
I used use proper spot-weld bits (they break constantly) and tried every combo of regular drill-bits, none come close to being as efficient as a boggo, cheapo cone-bit. Best part is it seems to have zero effect on the bit - I'm still using the same bit after countless welds drilled. You also don't need to muck about with pilot-holes, or the bit skidding about - it just eats into the weld, nice & fast.
When you get that ^^ made back up in fresh steel, give it a good coating with fiberglass filler before priming etc etc - the fiberglass stops water just eating back into the area - bang on a really good epoxy 2-pack primer after the fiberglass, you can do what you like after that - won't rust. :-)
Hi James, I'll try the cone bits for sure 😊 you seem to know what you're doing I'm surprised you're watching these videos 😅 have you got a landrover yourself?
@@mozsmancave2331 Bought my first new one in 1984 - 2.25 petrol... been at them ever since. Doing a '97 Defender currently - chopping a van into a pick-up from the axles up - ball of sh1te into very all right - nut & bolt job. They're a disease. :-)
i might use the step drill bit to drill out my spot welds as suggested but i was going to ask what size drill bits you used as i might try that also,thanks
I used a cobalt 5mm but you can use any size drill bit similar to the size of the spot welds, just make sure it's not standard HSS or it will dull quickly
@@mozsmancave2331 thanks for that
Enjoying these 👍😎
Excellent job!
I have same problems with my 110..
Thank you! Yeah landrovers tend to do that 😂
Very helpful, thanks!
Good to hear 👍🏻
Question: are you using a MiG Gas welder or flux core?
MIG welder with Co2 👍🏻
Have to do my own footwell soon,any trouble taking off pedals ect...what thickness steel did u use for the bits u had to weld in
No trouble at all to be honest, I used 1mm to make the filler panel and there's no flex at all thanks to the bend.
@@mozsmancave2331 sounds good 👍
th-cam.com/video/z3mXH3Vv7N4/w-d-xo.html
here's the video I did for removing the pedals 👍🏻
What amperage should I go for Moz?
With regards to what? Are you buying a welder or are you wondering what amperage to use when carrying out repairs?
Where did you buy the footwells?
Hi mate, I found them on eBay. I just bought the cheapest ones I could find to be honest.
what's the plan with the rest of the vehicle?
Still plenty to restore, paint and finish. Basically just giving it a good fettle I do paln on following up these videos as and when I get time.
Doing the same thing now. I ended up getting an air drill today with a set of cobalt drill bits... going through spot welds much faster than with my Makita cordless!
I just used normal high speed drill bits and they didn't do too bad to be honest, I imagine the cobalt drills would be better though
@@mozsmancave2331 they last longer but only if I’m spraying them with a penetrant while drilling. Not really worth the extra cash. What amp and wheel size is your angle grinder? Mine is a 6 amp 4” I believe and only tries to catch me on fire without cutting a damn thing lol. I need to cut the inner part of the left footwell where it meets the tunnel and the guard doesn’t work worth a damn.
@@chrismitchell45 mine was so rusty it didn't take much drilling 😂 my grinder is a dewalt 4.5" 11,000rpm, not sure what amps but its been a great tool
@@mozsmancave2331 mine cuts well enough, my problem is the guard is for grinding and not cutting lol. I was able to get the drivers side (right side) out today and believe it or not, the replacement Britpart footwell fit in perfectly! I haven’t had the bulkhead issues you’ve got though. That said, the upper passenger flange looks like Swiss cheese from shoddy welding and rust.
Update: I purchased a Milwaulkee Red Helix titanium impact driver bit, model 48-89-4607 in 5/32 (no idea what size it is in Brit speak lol). Paired with my 18v impact driver, it goes through spot welds in a bout 10 seconds each. It literally melts through them almost before I can spray them with oil.
I was also wondering what voltage your welder runs on? Again, I don't have any idea what you use in the UK but in the States we use 110/120-220/240v electrical in the house. Thank you sir!