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Great info, could have done without the loud obnoxious soundtrack.

How is this working out? The box still working 100%?

My 97 series 1 discovery has the same problem...

I’m gonna make it that’s so much

Hello! Is this the 1.4 or the 1.6? And am I right when I say there is no front engine mount?

How thick is the plate you use?

Very helpful. I am about to do the same on my ‘63 109.

Thanks. Very helpful. I hope we’ll see more Land Rover repairs.

Windscreen surround out, dashboard out.. gotta be done. Otherwise it's kinda shonky/a ballache. After a doing a few, taking the stuff off gets easy. We now just hoik off the screen/dashboard as routine. Often, the wings have to go do one too.

Nicely done. Thanks for the video.

putting one of these on my volkswagen lupo 1.4 16v later today, basically exactly the same way you've done it

I'm not sure I would have tried to save that bulkhead to be honest 🤔 ...

This video is elite 👍

Can you explain the painting? Did you galvanise the frame or just paint it? Any issue with rust ? Cheers

The new clip nuts just slide in and stay put?

Traduire en Francais.Mercie T

How can I get one

Looks fantastic 😊🙏 great video thank you for sharing 🙏

Want to make a set of my own could i get some more dimensions?

Thanks. This is a job that my son and I will have to attack next summer on his 30 year old Defender. Both corners are knackered, along with the air flap surrounds. Another subscriber🙂.

Great vid thanks 👍 Just ordered new hinges and ss fixinngs for my 300 TDI. It took me over 100 hrs to restore my 1982 station wagons bulkhead, but it's worth it, great repair panels from YRM, and some I fabricated tas couldn't get them all. But it should last another 40 years lol

You should pre fabricate some and sell them mate

Super! gonna drill mine as well, you only drilled 2 holes? are 4?

you the lad I see at the bakery in Walkden?

Awesome...I have to tackle my rust bucket

i might use the step drill bit to drill out my spot welds as suggested but i was going to ask what size drill bits you used as i might try that also,thanks

Very inspiring, I'm getting set to look at a series 3 bulkhead which is as bad/good as yours. Thanks great video.

What amp MIG welder are you using ? And make ? Thx Matt

Fantastic! just found this. Which size drill head did you use to get screws out?

And there it is, hiding.

Repair, it is not difficult if you can weld and the frame channels are available to do it. Those doors are expensive.

Nice job there. I’ve just started to refurbish my 110

Great job! After putting the composite boards in how do you fix the angle frame you made so they don’t fall out to the gate? Thanks

Replace

Typical landrover rust 😂

Nice video man! Just in the process of cutting mine out and it’s vertical identical. Even a repair patch in the same area of the gearbox tunnel 👍🏻

Question: are you using a MiG Gas welder or flux core?

Do a lot of LR chassis repairs - I find it's one vehicle where a plasma cutter comes in really handy for cutting out grot. On those specific outriggers, you really need to cut away that lower outer section as well - the damn rust lurks in behind it, hiding. Another sneaky spot is in behind the rear springs - if loads took their springs off, they'd see holey behind on the chassis wall inside the spring-bracket - a sod of a spot to fix unless you have a plasma as well. :-)

You did'nt leave and expansion gap for the fence panels!

This area is all about 3 layers - it's faster to mark where your gutter is rotted to, then really chop deep - through all the layers, chuck the lot in the bin, stopping where the grot stops, then work back out in fresh steel layer by layer - there's absolutely nothing complex here, it's all easy shapes so there's no need for fear. Make the new gutter in 3 steps - that makes it a doddle - first weld on the back shape, then the gutter "bottom" then add the front lip - it boils it down to 3 easily shaped pieces. Caveat is that unless you take off the windscreen, brake master (just unbolt it, no need to disconnect anything) clutch master (same) & the entire dash - all of it - then you're not going to have enough access - take everything off so you can really poke about. Once you have the gubbins off, you can get to all the usual rotted places easily enough - at that stage, it's all just simple shapes to make, no rocket-science involved. Upside of doing it like that is you can also properly seal everything as you re-fit it - use decent sealer like Tiger Seal or Sika - none of yer silicone muck. Wherever you weld in new steel - at the risk of repeating myself :-) - use fiberglass filler over the welded seams before you start mucking about with paint/finish - otherwise it'll leak/rust. Common-sense is also needed on what holes to "delete" when re-making things - a hole is just a future leak - so less is more. Them door-hinge holes btw - the LR versions are a bit faffy - (I.E crap...) - bang an appropriate riv-nut in instead, screw the hinges onto those - enjoy nicer door-bolting/unbolting. Chuck the LR "cross-head" hinge bolts in the bin too - use allen-bolts instead, preferably stainless, but normals fine too - no more swinging out of a screwdriver trying to get the hinges off at a later date when stuff has seized again. :-) Mainly as it won't - especially if you use a little dab of grease. If you bothered reading this far (lol - nobody will) - the best "Hint" you will ever get is buy yourself some Novol "Protect 360" Epoxy 2-Pack primer. Shoot that before you touch filler, primers, paint, etc etc - put it right on over the clean bare metal/fiberglass filler - there's no better basecoat - nada - it will even shrug off a blowtorch flame for an indecent amount of time before it bubbles - unlike everything else you could use - plus water has no effect on it whatsoever - again, unlike most other primers. Buy some - thank me later. Do your normal polyester filler/glaze/wet sand/primer/base/clear over the top of it - it's like foundation - best to start from firm foundations. Give aerosols a total miss btw - apart from brake cleaner, cleaning products in general & penetrating oil, nothing good ever came out of an aerosol can - especially in regards to paint/rust prevention.

Was at the same today - best "hint" I have for spot-welds (on anything) is to use a cone-bit in your cordless - dunno why but they last forever drilling spot welds, they do a brilliant job of dealing with them, they don't punch through the lower layer so re-welding is easier & they make the job a doddle & a lot faster. I used use proper spot-weld bits (they break constantly) and tried every combo of regular drill-bits, none come close to being as efficient as a boggo, cheapo cone-bit. Best part is it seems to have zero effect on the bit - I'm still using the same bit after countless welds drilled. You also don't need to muck about with pilot-holes, or the bit skidding about - it just eats into the weld, nice & fast. When you get that ^^ made back up in fresh steel, give it a good coating with fiberglass filler before priming etc etc - the fiberglass stops water just eating back into the area - bang on a really good epoxy 2-pack primer after the fiberglass, you can do what you like after that - won't rust. :-)

Great video!

Thanks for posting . I have a series 3 which is in a bad way. I was just wondering how on earth i could do the vent (which is non existent in places) . Now i see just take time and do it bit by bit. Thanks for the inspiration!

What size L steel did you use to pin the boards in pls

oh ! please, can you tell me where is the pump for the light wash ? i dont see it in the front ? or ?

Thieves don't bother with after market cat's because they ain't worth anything for scrap.

I would have replaced that entire bulkhead. It's a too far gone. But that would not make a good video so thanks for the upload.

Hi, Excellent video for replacing the outrigger. Do you have to take the wing, doors off for this task please.

Awesome gate

Just subbed. 109 series two owner. But still interesting watching someone deal with the same problems even on a coil sprung later model.