I replaced my flimsy ones on my trailer they were all cracked up. Then, I ordered a set from Sierra engineering in Tollhouse, California. They're more money but boy they are nice and thick and strong made of fiberglass👍🇺🇲
It looks like there is a space between the fender and the trailer wall, maybe use a rubber washer or inject some silicone in the back then let it setup before you install. That will give support and the cushion will help keep it from cracking. A lot of wind force on those, bet they are vibrating like crazy going down the road which is causing the plastic to give way. Surprised that you didn't inject some silicone into the old holes that go into the wood to protect it from moisture.
My 2018 Keystone Outback 328RL is worse. Both sides have cracks down the fenders in inches! Keystone applies clear caulking along the outside perimeter possibly to further reinforce the attachment points. When I replace mine, I plan to apply multiple coats of undercoating spray to build up layers on the underside of each panel to strengthen the existing flimsy thin plastic material. Thank you Adam. Eager to see your Big Haul adventures.
Good idea. I was thinking it may have been an idea for Adam to lay a bead of liquid nails on the backside of the new fenders just behind and under the top most lip where those cracks formed. I bet if you even just shoot the back of yours with Flex Seal, it would hold together much better. Maybe lay on some JB weld where the cracks formed and then shoot it with Flex Seal or similar. I try to address failure patterns when making a repair so I don't have to do it again. 😸
Get one of your boat buddy’s to use the old skirts as a mold blank and make some FRP skirts , you can add your Abom logo and make them look carbon fiber if you want! Those polypropylene skirts aren’t going to last, ABS would but it would have slowed down the production and cost 20 cents more! I bet you can sell them on your channel!
Most likely over tightened screws crushing the plastic which will shrink and expand a lot with the weather. Rubber washers or grommets would help a little. Drilling oversized holes in the plastic will help with the expansion and contraction as well helping to stop the cracking.
Well as others told you how to do this and that i will just leave my 2cent remark to myself. But then again on the entrance side(first replacement) you put your hand on the issue at the finish of side 1 but other than that i want say more! Just 1 cent. Good job correcting kodiaks problem.
Yeah got that ABom sticker on there. Can’t be having crap blowin off your rig goin down the hiway. Bad for the brand. I can see how that would eat at ya. I’m glad you finished them with the screwdriver, less likely to repeat the problem
I loathe working with stainless... it's seizing 'idiosyncrasies' are fabled in story & song. If there's any possibility of ever needing to remove stainless hardware, a tiny dab of (ultra messy) anti-seize is a must. Even then, no guaranties. Curious; do you crawl underneath now & again for good thorough 'nothing in particular, everything in general' inspections? I think I would... Cool videos, Thanks!
Have you ever thought about a roof rack for your truck bed or the top of the camper? It would give you a little more storage room for long haul trips. Nothing to heavy just maybe clothes or other similar lighter items? Just a thought. Enjoy the vids thank you.
Dissimilar metal corrosion...Anti-seize is a must. You live in the south also. Come up north with the snow and salt spray. Every screw head would have snapped. .
Did they give you those fenders as a free replacement under warranty? I'm not sure exactly how old your Kodiak is, but that seems to me like it was fitting for warranty replacement because it doesn't seem THAT old. I'd guess 5 years old? Even if the Kodiak is out of the official warranty period, that should be a goodwill warranty encounter. You and Abby take really good care of that unit. You go so far as to condition the popout seals regularly. I'd guess that you apply UV protectant ("sunscreen") like Aerospace 303 to the plastic parts like the fenders too. If not, consider it. I love Aerospace 303! Amazing stuff. It's probably a pain to think about, but if those upper screws go into the floor maybe consider taking the top screws off and pulling the fender out a bit so you can put a dab of RTV silicone over the old hole to seal them up?
@@AbomAdventures do you have a contact at Dutchmen? My 2020 Kodiak 201QB has fenders worse than yours. I tried emailing their team to no avail. I called the number on there website twice and got some medical survey company. Any help appreciated! Stay safe and keep the great content coming.
It could be that the replacements were deformed from storage. You mentioned you bought them earlier in the year, so perhaps the cold weather and then hot temps made them warp.
Thanks for your video Adam. I love watching all your channels. Once you realized you had to drill new holes, did you consider putting silicone in the old holes so moisture does not wick into your RV? would that be a concern? We are not RVer's, but hope to be in a couple years.
Adam… you or Abby needs to get back on the 3D printer and come up with inserts for the triangles in the center of those fenders - one with your micrometer logo for the drivers side, and one with Abby’s logo for the passenger side!
I think you mentioned some of the screws went into the floor of the camper? I was just thinking that might cause some issues with moisture? I would suggest a dab of silicone in those few screw holes - just like screws in a bathroom to stop water from entering. I noticed some of the screws were a bit rusty? Otherwise nice work! Thank you! :)
They’re called X-chocks. They’re a scissor jack that has pads that conform to the tires. When you expand them they lock the tires and stops the RV from rolling. Does the same thing as regular wheel chocks only better.
Ultraviolet rays are killers to plastics. Interesting how plastics also are affected by age as they also tend to "dry out" or become brittle and less pliable. The worst however, is the sunlight. All we can do is keep plastic restorer dressing on them and just hope for the best. I see more and more black plastics on automobiles and trucks that I have to wonder how anyone will ever find a replacement plastic body part after their well taken care of vehicle needs a replacement due to fatigue or just plain product failure after the manufacturers stop making those parts which tend to be about 10 years.
My best guess would be that the old injection mold probably wore out, and when they had a new one machined or casted they just said "The screw holes are not a critical dimension so there's no need to match the molds exactly, just get them close enough." Their minds are on making new RVs, not replacement parts that are a direct bolt-on replacement which are perfectly aligned. Injection molds wear out over time. Now, if you're making a Glock 19 frame, those holes in the new injection mold better be exactly in the same, proper spot as the old one! 😸
Hey Adam, I do NOT know if your RV would be compatible with my following suggestion or not. I fought the bolt on plastic fenders for several years. MY solution was non-hardening gray butyl rope caulk (as used on grain bins). Basically using that as a flexible bonding “buffer” material to keep the fenders from wholly flexing at the screws. Ken
Pretty much the same idea. I'm wondering if some mastic / dum-dum / auto body seam sealer strips would go in between fender and aluminum, and spread the vibration load out. Those holes are really close to the periphery of the plastic. And the dum-dum strips would cover the holes left in the aluminum from the original drilling. 3M seam sealer being one example. Whoever designed those plastic fenders did not have long life or solid design in mind ,whatever the cost of replacement.
Is it just me or do the tires on the second fender side look really really inset compared to the first side? edit: Nevm, looks like the side of the trailer is extended.
You should use double-sided tape because after a while When driving on the freeway those screws are going to get loose from the air pressure at high speeds.
Typical mobile/ motor home construction , no two the same ,done on psycho assembly line of illegals . Can't imagine how frustrating to you a perfectionist this must be . This is an industry whose motto is ,if it doesn't fit ,force it .
Threaded inserts save LIVES!
Got to love when what should be a simple five minute job turns into a huge production.
Stainless is notorious for galling. Anti-seize is a must on stainless hardware.
Absolutely. Especially in a factory using impact tools for fastening. Ive had m12s seize up... Thats fun right there.
Especially when going into aluminum, will almost always bind
I replaced my flimsy ones on my trailer they were all cracked up. Then, I ordered a set from Sierra engineering in Tollhouse, California. They're more money but boy they are nice and thick and strong made of fiberglass👍🇺🇲
Have you thought of closing the original holes with a seal to prevent the water from entering the structure of your Kodiak?
a small rubber washer under the head of each screw will allow a little flex and over tightening maybe to reduce the cracking..
In manufacturing we always used nickel anti seize on stainless fasteners. Made dis assembly a lot easier.
It looks like there is a space between the fender and the trailer wall, maybe use a rubber washer or inject some silicone in the back then let it setup before you install. That will give support and the cushion will help keep it from cracking. A lot of wind force on those, bet they are vibrating like crazy going down the road which is causing the plastic to give way. Surprised that you didn't inject some silicone into the old holes that go into the wood to protect it from moisture.
perhaps the holes didn't line up because there is a left and right side. Been there, done that.
My 2018 Keystone Outback 328RL is worse. Both sides have cracks down the fenders in inches! Keystone applies clear caulking along the outside perimeter possibly to further reinforce the attachment points. When I replace mine, I plan to apply multiple coats of undercoating spray to build up layers on the underside of each panel to strengthen the existing flimsy thin plastic material. Thank you Adam. Eager to see your Big Haul adventures.
Good idea. I was thinking it may have been an idea for Adam to lay a bead of liquid nails on the backside of the new fenders just behind and under the top most lip where those cracks formed. I bet if you even just shoot the back of yours with Flex Seal, it would hold together much better. Maybe lay on some JB weld where the cracks formed and then shoot it with Flex Seal or similar. I try to address failure patterns when making a repair so I don't have to do it again. 😸
Thanks for sharing with us Adam, hope these plastic fenders last longer. Fred. 🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
Assembly guys probably used impact drills at the factory
I have the same wheel covers and chocks!
Nice! Much improved with washers and light torque...:-)
Get one of your boat buddy’s to use the old skirts as a mold blank and make some FRP skirts , you can add your Abom logo and make them look carbon fiber if you want! Those polypropylene skirts aren’t going to last, ABS would but it would have slowed down the production and cost 20 cents more!
I bet you can sell them on your channel!
Nice repair, but sad they needed replacement so soon.
Thank you very much for the Update.
Sad, but it seems rv’s are built to stay together long enough to get to the dealer lot. Not much quality goes in these days.
Every “quick” job is one stripped screw away from an all day job!!
Do you put some blue Loctite or lock washer on the tread ???? Maybe add some 3M trim double-sided tape? Cheers.....
Most likely over tightened screws crushing the plastic which will shrink and expand a lot with the weather. Rubber washers or grommets would help a little. Drilling oversized holes in the plastic will help with the expansion and contraction as well helping to stop the cracking.
Well as others told you how to do this and that i will just leave my 2cent remark to myself. But then again on the entrance side(first replacement) you put your hand on the issue at the finish of side 1 but other than that i want say more! Just 1 cent. Good job correcting kodiaks problem.
Looks great
Good old stainless hardware galls really easy...
Yeah got that ABom sticker on there. Can’t be having crap blowin off your rig goin down the hiway. Bad for the brand. I can see how that would eat at ya. I’m glad you finished them with the screwdriver, less likely to repeat the problem
Good info!
just a thought. would bedding the screws with a small amount of silicon help with the vibration thus cracking? great vireos Dave
I loathe working with stainless... it's seizing 'idiosyncrasies' are fabled in story & song.
If there's any possibility of ever needing to remove stainless hardware, a tiny dab of (ultra messy) anti-seize is a must. Even then, no guaranties.
Curious; do you crawl underneath now & again for good thorough 'nothing in particular, everything in general' inspections? I think I would...
Cool videos, Thanks!
Are you sure that the new fenders where not marked right and left?
So if I understand right, these Kodiaks are great until you actually start using them?
Stainless is notorious for galling, I figured for sure you would have experienced this in your career field. Nonetheless, I enjoyed your video🙂
Good deal Adam!
Have you ever thought about a roof rack for your truck bed or the top of the camper? It would give you a little more storage room for long haul trips. Nothing to heavy just maybe clothes or other similar lighter items? Just a thought. Enjoy the vids thank you.
Dissimilar metal corrosion...Anti-seize is a must. You live in the south also. Come up north with the snow and salt spray. Every screw head would have snapped. .
Did they give you those fenders as a free replacement under warranty? I'm not sure exactly how old your Kodiak is, but that seems to me like it was fitting for warranty replacement because it doesn't seem THAT old. I'd guess 5 years old? Even if the Kodiak is out of the official warranty period, that should be a goodwill warranty encounter. You and Abby take really good care of that unit. You go so far as to condition the popout seals regularly. I'd guess that you apply UV protectant ("sunscreen") like Aerospace 303 to the plastic parts like the fenders too. If not, consider it. I love Aerospace 303! Amazing stuff. It's probably a pain to think about, but if those upper screws go into the floor maybe consider taking the top screws off and pulling the fender out a bit so you can put a dab of RTV silicone over the old hole to seal them up?
Yes they were a warranty replacement.
@@AbomAdventures Awesome!!! Glad they took care of you and did the right thing. :)
@@AbomAdventures do you have a contact at Dutchmen? My 2020 Kodiak 201QB has fenders worse than yours. I tried emailing their team to no avail. I called the number on there website twice and got some medical survey company. Any help appreciated! Stay safe and keep the great content coming.
It could be that the replacements were deformed from storage. You mentioned you bought them earlier in the year, so perhaps the cold weather and then hot temps made them warp.
Thanks for your video Adam. I love watching all your channels. Once you realized you had to drill new holes, did you consider putting silicone in the old holes so moisture does not wick into your RV? would that be a concern? We are not RVer's, but hope to be in a couple years.
Perhaps finding Fiberglass replacements could be an option
Adam… you or Abby needs to get back on the 3D printer and come up with inserts for the triangles in the center of those fenders - one with your micrometer logo for the drivers side, and one with Abby’s logo for the passenger side!
Not a bad idea 👍🏻
Adam I cant believe you didn't clean under those fenders.
I think you mentioned some of the screws went into the floor of the camper? I was just thinking that might cause some issues with moisture? I would suggest a dab of silicone in those few screw holes - just like screws in a bathroom to stop water from entering. I noticed some of the screws were a bit rusty? Otherwise nice work! Thank you! :)
x2...I would think a sealer would be wise as well.
What is the scissor type bracket between the tires for?
They’re called X-chocks. They’re a scissor jack that has pads that conform to the tires. When you expand them they lock the tires and stops the RV from rolling. Does the same thing as regular wheel chocks only better.
You can tell it's driving Adam nuts
Ultraviolet rays are killers to plastics. Interesting how plastics also are affected by age as they also tend to "dry out" or become brittle and less pliable. The worst however, is the sunlight. All we can do is keep plastic restorer dressing on them and just hope for the best. I see more and more black plastics on automobiles and trucks that I have to wonder how anyone will ever find a replacement plastic body part after their well taken care of vehicle needs a replacement due to fatigue or just plain product failure after the manufacturers stop making those parts which tend to be about 10 years.
Why would they change the screw pattern?
My best guess would be that the old injection mold probably wore out, and when they had a new one machined or casted they just said "The screw holes are not a critical dimension so there's no need to match the molds exactly, just get them close enough." Their minds are on making new RVs, not replacement parts that are a direct bolt-on replacement which are perfectly aligned. Injection molds wear out over time. Now, if you're making a Glock 19 frame, those holes in the new injection mold better be exactly in the same, proper spot as the old one! 😸
Hey Adam,
I do NOT know if your RV would be compatible with my following suggestion or not. I fought the bolt on plastic fenders for several years. MY solution was non-hardening gray butyl rope caulk (as used on grain bins). Basically using that as a flexible bonding “buffer” material to keep the fenders from wholly flexing at the screws.
Ken
Pretty much the same idea. I'm wondering if some mastic / dum-dum / auto body seam sealer strips would go in between fender and aluminum, and spread the vibration load out. Those holes are really close to the periphery of the plastic. And the dum-dum strips would cover the holes left in the aluminum from the original drilling. 3M seam sealer being one example.
Whoever designed those plastic fenders did not have long life or solid design in mind ,whatever the cost of replacement.
Disney Fenders... (pretty Mickey Mouse)....:-)
Had several RV and the plastic fenders broke on all of them
Them 10 minute jobs that take 2 hours, know them well.
I don't think Dutchman drill those they probably just screw through the plastic. 👍😊
If I did that job, and tried to record, it would have been a 6 hour movie!!!!!! Like candianwelderfarmer said......
Is it just me or do the tires on the second fender side look really really inset compared to the first side? edit: Nevm, looks like the side of the trailer is extended.
second side is on a slide out
I bet it took a 12 pack of beer to get that done! lol🤔
stainless steel will lock up when it gets hot ,,it got hot turning it out
stainless bolt with stainless nut will guald bad,use carbon nut to stop that
So, if a washer was added problem would not have happened? If so. Cheaped out at manufacture, Sad
I've had my share of seized stainless hardware.
Sorry to say but this will fail again within 2 years, there is already tension on the plastic. You need spacers on back side.
RVs are the things we use to help us get into the great outdoors...but also RVs should never be left outside. Haha. All of them are junk.
Stainless steel hardware in contact with an aluminum bracket is an electrolysis disaster.
The washers are too big....if only you had a lathe to trim them dam what a shame......😳🙄😉👍🏻🇬🇧
This camper manufacturer gives "Made in the USA" a bad name.
I really like he trailer overall but not a fan of the way they did those fenders.
You should use double-sided tape because after a while When driving on the freeway those screws are going to get loose from the air pressure at high speeds.
Haha ooh a Kodiak just like mine with the same issue haha don’t you just love the build quality of anything these days? Hahahha ahhh 🙄🤦🏻♂️
At least no blood sacrifice was needed.
Typical mobile/ motor home construction , no two the same ,done on psycho assembly line of illegals . Can't imagine how frustrating to you a perfectionist this must be . This is an industry whose motto is ,if it doesn't fit ,force it .