Thank you for all your hard work on these videos it has helped me in the past and it has inspired me to do a huge overhaul on my pontoon this spring so that I can have my boat up and running this summer so thank you for all you help throughout all these videos that you have supplied us with on this channel you may not realize just how important you and your company are to the ones that watch your channel so thank you.
Thanks so much, that means a ton! I started the channel because while there are tons of boat videos out there, and even quite a few pontoon related videos, there wasn't someone TEACHING the how-to stuff that we do on a daily basis. I can't fix up every boat out there in the country so might as well pass along what I've learned to anyone willing to take on their own project at home. Be sure to use our discount code and link if you shop Pontoon Stuff! Even little purchases are a huge help for us considering all the time and effort that goes into the channel. Best of luck on your project, and if you come across something I'm missing a video on please let me know! www.pontoonstuff.com/tomstoons TOMS5OFF at checkout to save 5%
I’m currently in the process of rebuilding my pontoon boat which was damaged during a storm. I have removed the fence, furniture and console and now preparing to remove decking. Your videos is what inspired me to make take on this project myself. Thanks for sharing your knowledge though these videos!
Awesome! Glad the videos have been helpful. Our goal is 100% to give people the confidence to tackle their own projects at home...and show what's possible for these old boats if you are willing to give them some new life!
Woof. It’s fun and satisfying for us, but I know it’s a hang up and stop sign for tons of folks working on their own boats at home. I don’t think I could ever make enough of this type of video!
Very knowledgeable! Great all around Channel. Electrical to welding ! Tig welding question ! So My question really is say I’m gonna weld a plate on the bottom of a Jon boat or pontoon. To get the puddle started and combined do you use filler or do you wait until the puddle forms together then add filler. That’s the only way I’ve found to do it. And doing that is a lower frequency better to help spread the arc? I know for thin to thick you try to focus the heat on the thicker part right ? I’m in the learning process being self taught so trying to not do the wrong way !
Thanks for tuning in! Always get a puddle established on the base metals before adding any filler. I think it's the most common beginner TIG mistake to be in a hurry to add filler. Let it clean and melt for an extra second or two longer than you want to before adding filler and I bet you'll be surprised at how much better your penetration and consistency is start to finish. Remember that filler cools the weld pool, adding it too soon will cool your weld from the start. Yes, lower frequency and a little farther distance from the work piece will spread the arc to an extent. I will always get the thicker material melted in first, then move into the thinner material. It can also help to preheat the thicker material with a torch. I'm self-taught on MIG and TIG with aluminum too. Just keep studying up all the info you can here on TH-cam and then spend hours and hours practicing on scrap. No knowledge base or information can replace burn time.
@ thanks Tom for that help!! I’m young and learning. Very rewarding hobby. This is what I love about TH-cam. The information is there and the help that people give ! I’m trying to self teach I bought everlast 210 and every weekend have been spending time on it ! So basically if I weld a thick plate onto something that’s thinner I should heat up the plate without burning the edges then move toward the thinner ? Then once both are molten add filler ? Or should wait for them to combine into one puddle ? I think I’m describing it right. Like a inside corner joint they combine without filler! Or do I like have to get them both molten then combine with wire ? Thanks so much man you don’t know how much help this is to get answered!!
@@coltensawyer6761 It's how I got started with welding! The Fabrication Series has my favorite starting TIG video with practice drills, Welding Tips and Tricks is pretty solid, Tim Welds, and Pacific Arc TIG Welding. Those are the channels that taught me the basics and gave me practice drills to work on. You won't always get things to fuse like you're talking about, where the two base metals melt into each other without adding filler. Sometimes a fusion will happen which is great to start, but most of the time I get both pieces molten, then add filler just before they're about to melt away. That's the part of practicing that a lot of people miss. They want to move too fast...the trick is to practice making those mistakes on scrap so that you know what it looks like when it's happening (too much heat). You can ruin a piece of scrap in learning without penalty. Plus you shouldn't be learning on a project that needs proper welds.
@@tomspontoons yes I used all of those ! And still use them and watch channels like yours to ! Thanks for help. You answered my question on filler I though the fusion between two was supposed to happen then you add filler. Now I know it’s okay to get both molten then fuse them with filler ! Just trying to learn right way.
@@coltensawyer6761 I was in your shoes a few years ago. Heck I was studying everything I could for several months before even buying my first machine! And yes, part of getting them both molten before adding filler is making sure you're letting your torch and gas clean the base metals well too. Ease in at low amperage for a couple of second and then get on the pedal. I used to go way to fast on start ups and had super dirty tacks and starts. Let it clean, let it heat, let them melt, then as Pacific Arc says "fill and chill". Let that puddle establish, then start moving and adding. Even on 1/16" aluminum I am always amazing at how slow I can move and still not blow through. Keep it up, it's a skill that few people have and something you'll get to keep the rest of your life! It's helped me make money in my business AND build myself my dream boats from scratch!
I’m glad my houseboat is an all new build so I don’t have that rats nest to deal with. Question: Gauges - I’m using a 2025 115 hp Mercury Sea Pro. I’m being advised that analog gauges (I am old school) would cost as much to use as the Mercury VesselView system. Agree or disagree? Wiring - I’ve been advised that all my boat’s wiring has to be tinned copper to meet American Boat and Yacht (ABYC) E-11 code for insurance purposes down the road. What are your thoughts? I’m currently waiting to hear from my off-grid solar system supplier to find out if their wiring is compliant. This could get expensive… Great video. My brain was tired by the time I got through it. Thanks again for your great content.
It's my favorite when we get to start all over with new, clean wiring throughout. That's a great question. I do love Vessel View as an add on to check real time engine info like hours and fuel flow, but not so much for a replacement for gauges unless it's on a very small and simple pontoon or fishing boat. I can see why folks use it in replacement of gauges especially if running it on an old iPhone, iPad or tablet, but I like the old tried and true analog gauges as my main source. I don't think there's a right and a wrong, and for $225 to $250 it's very price competitive. Takes less than 5 minutes to install too.
Thank you for all your hard work on these videos it has helped me in the past and it has inspired me to do a huge overhaul on my pontoon this spring so that I can have my boat up and running this summer so thank you for all you help throughout all these videos that you have supplied us with on this channel you may not realize just how important you and your company are to the ones that watch your channel so thank you.
Thanks so much, that means a ton! I started the channel because while there are tons of boat videos out there, and even quite a few pontoon related videos, there wasn't someone TEACHING the how-to stuff that we do on a daily basis. I can't fix up every boat out there in the country so might as well pass along what I've learned to anyone willing to take on their own project at home. Be sure to use our discount code and link if you shop Pontoon Stuff! Even little purchases are a huge help for us considering all the time and effort that goes into the channel. Best of luck on your project, and if you come across something I'm missing a video on please let me know!
www.pontoonstuff.com/tomstoons
TOMS5OFF at checkout to save 5%
I’m currently in the process of rebuilding my pontoon boat which was damaged during a storm. I have removed the fence, furniture and console and now preparing to remove decking. Your videos is what inspired me to make take on this project myself. Thanks for sharing your knowledge though these videos!
Awesome! Glad the videos have been helpful. Our goal is 100% to give people the confidence to tackle their own projects at home...and show what's possible for these old boats if you are willing to give them some new life!
LOVE the old pontoon boats with multiple mods over the years 😆
Isn't it satisfying pulling that all out and replacing with new?
Woof. It’s fun and satisfying for us, but I know it’s a hang up and stop sign for tons of folks working on their own boats at home. I don’t think I could ever make enough of this type of video!
Very knowledgeable! Great all around Channel. Electrical to welding ! Tig welding question ! So My question really is say I’m gonna weld a plate on the bottom of a Jon boat or pontoon. To get the puddle started and combined do you use filler or do you wait until the puddle forms together then add filler. That’s the only way I’ve found to do it. And doing that is a lower frequency better to help spread the arc? I know for thin to thick you try to focus the heat on the thicker part right ? I’m in the learning process being self taught so trying to not do the wrong way !
Thanks for tuning in! Always get a puddle established on the base metals before adding any filler. I think it's the most common beginner TIG mistake to be in a hurry to add filler. Let it clean and melt for an extra second or two longer than you want to before adding filler and I bet you'll be surprised at how much better your penetration and consistency is start to finish. Remember that filler cools the weld pool, adding it too soon will cool your weld from the start.
Yes, lower frequency and a little farther distance from the work piece will spread the arc to an extent. I will always get the thicker material melted in first, then move into the thinner material. It can also help to preheat the thicker material with a torch. I'm self-taught on MIG and TIG with aluminum too. Just keep studying up all the info you can here on TH-cam and then spend hours and hours practicing on scrap. No knowledge base or information can replace burn time.
@ thanks Tom for that help!! I’m young and learning. Very rewarding hobby. This is what I love about TH-cam. The information is there and the help that people give ! I’m trying to self teach I bought everlast 210 and every weekend have been spending time on it !
So basically if I weld a thick plate onto something that’s thinner I should heat up the plate without burning the edges then move toward the thinner ? Then once both are molten add filler ? Or should wait for them to combine into one puddle ? I think I’m describing it right. Like a inside corner joint they combine without filler! Or do I like have to get them both molten then combine with wire ? Thanks so much man you don’t know how much help this is to get answered!!
@@coltensawyer6761 It's how I got started with welding! The Fabrication Series has my favorite starting TIG video with practice drills, Welding Tips and Tricks is pretty solid, Tim Welds, and Pacific Arc TIG Welding. Those are the channels that taught me the basics and gave me practice drills to work on.
You won't always get things to fuse like you're talking about, where the two base metals melt into each other without adding filler. Sometimes a fusion will happen which is great to start, but most of the time I get both pieces molten, then add filler just before they're about to melt away. That's the part of practicing that a lot of people miss. They want to move too fast...the trick is to practice making those mistakes on scrap so that you know what it looks like when it's happening (too much heat). You can ruin a piece of scrap in learning without penalty. Plus you shouldn't be learning on a project that needs proper welds.
@@tomspontoons yes I used all of those ! And still use them and watch channels like yours to ! Thanks for help. You answered my question on filler I though the fusion between two was supposed to happen then you add filler. Now I know it’s okay to get both molten then fuse them with filler ! Just trying to learn right way.
@@coltensawyer6761 I was in your shoes a few years ago. Heck I was studying everything I could for several months before even buying my first machine! And yes, part of getting them both molten before adding filler is making sure you're letting your torch and gas clean the base metals well too. Ease in at low amperage for a couple of second and then get on the pedal. I used to go way to fast on start ups and had super dirty tacks and starts. Let it clean, let it heat, let them melt, then as Pacific Arc says "fill and chill". Let that puddle establish, then start moving and adding. Even on 1/16" aluminum I am always amazing at how slow I can move and still not blow through. Keep it up, it's a skill that few people have and something you'll get to keep the rest of your life! It's helped me make money in my business AND build myself my dream boats from scratch!
I’m glad my houseboat is an all new build so I don’t have that rats nest to deal with.
Question:
Gauges - I’m using a 2025 115 hp Mercury Sea Pro. I’m being advised that analog gauges (I am old school) would cost as much to use as the Mercury VesselView system. Agree or disagree?
Wiring - I’ve been advised that all my boat’s wiring has to be tinned copper to meet American Boat and Yacht (ABYC) E-11 code for insurance purposes down the road. What are your thoughts?
I’m currently waiting to hear from my off-grid solar system supplier to find out if their wiring is compliant. This could get expensive…
Great video. My brain was tired by the time I got through it. Thanks again for your great content.
It's my favorite when we get to start all over with new, clean wiring throughout. That's a great question. I do love Vessel View as an add on to check real time engine info like hours and fuel flow, but not so much for a replacement for gauges unless it's on a very small and simple pontoon or fishing boat. I can see why folks use it in replacement of gauges especially if running it on an old iPhone, iPad or tablet, but I like the old tried and true analog gauges as my main source. I don't think there's a right and a wrong, and for $225 to $250 it's very price competitive. Takes less than 5 minutes to install too.