This video and your other by similar content was a life-saver today. My Ford 445 died on a desolate country road. I was by myself and having recently inherited this equipment from my late father, had no idea where to turn for solutions. The fuel petcock was, in fact, block and I purged the air from the fuel filter and injector as you demonstrated, and Wah-lah . . . . it started. Bonus content: I had a potential buyer coming to look at this tractor today so the pressure was on. He arrived later this after noon and has decided to buy this tractor. The fuel petcock was again blocked when he arrived and I was able to clear the blockage again start the tractor for the buyer. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this content. Very helpful and of great relief to me today. Blessings!
Thank you so much for sharing this!! We have a Ford 340a and had the same problem same fuel tap. Managed to get it running again so we could finish the job was in the middle of. . It worked !
1970 mines 51yrs old. Air in the lines are a problem that's easy fix. Small bleeder screw on the pump then crack the injectors. Black fuel bacteria always got me in middle of winter snowing and blowing trying to plow snow. It's easy to unscrew the fuel shut off assembly off the bottom of the tank. Then use a blow gun blowing fuel and air all around the inside to clean the tank. I got it down to about an hour back up and running again. I've done it lots of times till I started using filters on the big fuel tank stopping the water and dirt before it gets in the tank. I treat the fuel also to stop the bacteria. I don't hardly ever change fuel filters on the tractor anymore. The water rusted holes in the bottom of the tank one time so used a stick with sand paper on the end, did the best I could prepping around the holes inside and out, mixed up some Devcon two part epoxy "Liquid Steel" That was 30yrs ago. You should hear how I fixed the hole rusted through the water jacket in to #3 cylinder. Most important! always good battery. Cranking speed means a lot. These motors are cold blooded. A couple hrs on the block heater makes a big difference when it's cold. 60 to 90 seconds on the fuel heater helps a lot. The intake manifold has a heating element that heats up a bi-metal disk that bends under the heat letting fuel drop on the hot element vaporizing the fuel so when you crank it the pistons suck that warm fuel and air vapor in. Not starting mine sometimes for months and it wouldn't start. The fuel shut off on top of the pump turns a shaft with a centric that pushes a fuel shut off button down and it got stuck down. 4 screws lift the rectangular cap and you'll see the spring loaded button stuck down. After I tapped it popped up and was good. I started stalling the motor in high gear or at least push the fuel shut off back in before I leave it sit for a long period.
Becareful with starting fluid, you can ruin your engine pretty fast if used wrong or excessively. Generally you should never spray ether into the intake until the engine is cranking over.
Try using a misting bottle with diesel in it (use when bleeding out your injectors)...I have a 1984 545A (Cream Puff). When I use starting fluid, it pings, and it just feels like I am beating her up.
Internet or New Holland dealer. Mine a 1970 is a three button ceramic disk. It wore in to the pressure plate and fly wheel till it started slipping. I tore the pressure plate apart and took the plate and the fly wheel to a machine shop and had them turned down smooth. I bought new pressure plate springs and clutch disk from Ford for $135 and $40. I had the Ford tractor mechanics set up the pressure plate according to the service manual. First time doing one he didn't want to do it but he did a good job. That was 30 yrs ago and it's still feather light and smooth as can be. Back then the pressure plate was $525.
@@elliotfrank119 sorry I thought you were joking. Diesel fires by the heat generated by compression. Starting fluid has a much lower combustion temperature. You can even soak a rag in gasoline and hold it over the intake.
This video and your other by similar content was a life-saver today. My Ford 445 died on a desolate country road. I was by myself and having recently inherited this equipment from my late father, had no idea where to turn for solutions. The fuel petcock was, in fact, block and I purged the air from the fuel filter and injector as you demonstrated, and Wah-lah . . . . it started. Bonus content: I had a potential buyer coming to look at this tractor today so the pressure was on. He arrived later this after noon and has decided to buy this tractor. The fuel petcock was again blocked when he arrived and I was able to clear the blockage again start the tractor for the buyer. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this content. Very helpful and of great relief to me today. Blessings!
❤❤❤ Love the extension cord👍👍👍
Thank you so much for sharing this!! We have a Ford 340a and had the same problem same fuel tap. Managed to get it running again so we could finish the job was in the middle of. . It worked !
Glad it helped👍
1970 mines 51yrs old. Air in the lines are a problem that's easy fix. Small bleeder screw on the pump then crack the injectors. Black fuel bacteria always got me in middle of winter snowing and blowing trying to plow snow. It's easy to unscrew the fuel shut off assembly off the bottom of the tank. Then use a blow gun blowing fuel and air all around the inside to clean the tank. I got it down to about an hour back up and running again. I've done it lots of times till I started using filters on the big fuel tank stopping the water and dirt before it gets in the tank. I treat the fuel also to stop the bacteria. I don't hardly ever change fuel filters on the tractor anymore.
The water rusted holes in the bottom of the tank one time so used a stick with sand paper on the end, did the best I could prepping around the holes inside and out, mixed up some Devcon two part epoxy "Liquid Steel" That was 30yrs ago. You should hear how I fixed the hole rusted through the water jacket in to #3 cylinder.
Most important! always good battery. Cranking speed means a lot. These motors are cold blooded. A couple hrs on the block heater makes a big difference when it's cold. 60 to 90 seconds on the fuel heater helps a lot. The intake manifold has a heating element that heats up a bi-metal disk that bends under the heat letting fuel drop on the hot element vaporizing the fuel so when you crank it the pistons suck that warm fuel and air vapor in.
Not starting mine sometimes for months and it wouldn't start. The fuel shut off on top of the pump turns a shaft with a centric that pushes a fuel shut off button down and it got stuck down. 4 screws lift the rectangular cap and you'll see the spring loaded button stuck down. After I tapped it popped up and was good. I started stalling the motor in high gear or at least push the fuel shut off back in before I leave it sit for a long period.
Becareful with starting fluid, you can ruin your engine pretty fast if used wrong or excessively. Generally you should never spray ether into the intake until the engine is cranking over.
replace glow plug. it usually burns out over time.
Lmao as an electrician I got a kick out of your extension cord. Each wrap of electrical tape is good for 600v (;
I have for major 1957 don't want to start i try until the battery is empty what i can do ? Tkx you so much
Try using a misting bottle with diesel in it (use when bleeding out your injectors)...I have a 1984 545A (Cream Puff). When I use starting fluid, it pings, and it just feels like I am beating her up.
I’ll give it a try. I’ve never really liked using ether for starting fluid.👍
Starting fluid isn’t and excuse for not bleeding the air out of the lines…..
Need to take tank off clean it it will do it again until you get cramp out
If you run out of fuel, you need to bleed the lines
Do you step on the gas the whole time or no ?
This is definitely not what is wrong with mine 😭
one day late one dollar short.
replace fuel shut valve.
Where can i order a clutch for a ford backhoe
Internet or New Holland dealer.
Mine a 1970 is a three button ceramic disk. It wore in to the pressure plate and fly wheel till it started slipping. I tore the pressure plate apart and took the plate and the fly wheel to a machine shop and had them turned down smooth. I bought new pressure plate springs and clutch disk from Ford for $135 and $40. I had the Ford tractor mechanics set up the pressure plate according to the service manual. First time doing one he didn't want to do it but he did a good job. That was 30 yrs ago and it's still feather light and smooth as can be. Back then the pressure plate was $525.
How does the starting fluid help with a Diesel engine there’s no spark plugs?
Makes you wonder how the diesel fires doesn’t it? 😂
@@billypotter3831 Yes it does! I'm just trying to understand. sorry if it's a dumb question.
@@elliotfrank119 sorry I thought you were joking. Diesel fires by the heat generated by compression. Starting fluid has a much lower combustion temperature. You can even soak a rag in gasoline and hold it over the intake.
Hahaha Ford 4500s are impossible to start when they don’t want to
To be honest. This video shows poor maintenance and poor choice in the use of starter fluid vs properly bleeding the system.