Hi Mani, thanks for another awesome video! It would be amazing if you could make a tutorial on dyno technique. I am quite short and often I find it hard to reach holds statically, so learning how to dyno properly would help me a lot!
Two useful apps. The best is the one from Eva Lopez called complex timer. You can design your own workout, it takes little time to learn how to use it. The other one is much easier is the beastmaker app. Both of them are for free. Nice videos by the way 😃
I love it! I'm a v6 climber just starting to get into hangboarding to up my strength and was wondering where would be a good place to start. Next time at the gym I'm gonna try 5sec on 5sec off repeaters!!
@@joecrimps i'd say that this is the gold standard hangboarding workout to do. after getting more experience hangboarding over the last few years, i can say that 7 secs on, 3 off, for sets of 1 min, works fantastically. I would recommend that you are very COMFORTABLE with your hangboard, because it's pretty easy to tweak something small when you first start (and this goes against the point of training). Hang a couple edges with the goal of figuring out how your hands will feel the NEXT day. As soon as you're familiar with the load a certain workout will place on your fingers, the 7/3 for 1min sets are amazing. You should probably choose an edge that's quite a bit bigger than you'd initially want. The first set or two should feel easy-ish, like 80% of what you can handle, but by sets 3 and 4 you might be shaking and struggling to hang on. The volume is really what you want here. Repeaters like this are the real meat of a hangboard workout, and although I haven't done a TON of training cycles or anything like that, I can say that in my experience repeaters worked very well. Hope this helped :)
Joseph Clifford Thank you so much for the reply 3 years later haha. Just tried it out for the first time and the last few rounds were super hard but i got a good pump. I’m gonna keep at this workout :)
@@joecrimps hell yeah lol, you're welcome. i'd say you have a few months more of gains with that workout plan. then you just move to a smaller edge or add weight, basically :) happy training
If you want to spend the money then the beastmaker app is veryuseful, you can custom make your own training using a beastmaker or any type of hangboard
hello, very good video, I would like to know what do you think about the program of trainings of Eric Hurst (10 \ 12 seconds \ 2 \ 3 minutes of rest = 1set) and how is your method of improving the strength of your fingers better or worse?
Really nice video man! You mentioned that you train one arm hangs with the rope, have you ever tried it with specific amounts of weight off through a pulley and some dead rope? It's what I've been doing for the last few week and I've been seeing some nice gains, I also like to variate the lock position (20 degrees, 45 degrees, 90 degrees) with the sets. I do it with around 5kg off atm but I started with 9. I think it gives you a numerical value to exactly how much you're loading your fingers with so it's better than just using some rope on the side. Tell me what you think!
Very good input, back in the days I used this kind of pulley system (numerical value and so on) to get to the one armer. Never used it in relation to finger strength though, and unfortunately I don't have one available at the moment. But yeah I can definitely recommend it, seeing a numerical value keeps one motivated as you can track that you get closer to your goal.
I like to do mine on the 18mm edge, you should definitely give this method a go as a pulley isn' t too pricey. www.amazon.co.uk/Petzl-Swing-Cheek-Pulley/dp/B000QA98W0
Hi Mani! Great Vid. Thank you. A lot of questions, sorry for that. I never know how to structure training. How does your recovery / training schedule (week, month, season) looks like? How one can have results and break trough plateau ? How many fingerboard-sessions per week? Is a fingerboard-session similar to campus board? How to mix it up with strength training (pull-ups, push-ups, rings)? Do you train strength and do your fingerboard-sessions also on the same day? Do you use the principle of supercompensation?
I am trying to get more strength into my fingers and I am thinking of putting in this workout into my work plan! How often do I have to do this a week in order to increase it you think? Keep up the hard work Mani! love your videos!
Wie immer gutes Video Mani :) Wann sollte ich so eine Session machen ? (Direkt nach ner Bouldersession oder ein paar Stunden Pause dazwischen) Und macht des überhaupt Sinn und bringt es noch einen Muskelstimulus nach ner 3 stündigen Bouldersession ?
Definitiv weniger Sinn nach einer 3h bouldersession da du dann weniger Zugriff auf deine eigentliche Fingerkraft hast, außerdem wirds dann auch gefährlicher was Verletzungsgefahr angeht. Wenn du anfänger bist was repeaters angeht würde ich einen tag für eine einzige session investieren und eventuell noch eine, und wenn man mehr gewöhnt daran ist kann mans später immer noch mit anderen sessions kombinieren, und hier bin ich selber eher jemand der die hangboard sessions am ende vom tag dranhängt, mit ein bisschen pause nach der eigentlichen bouldersession oder was immer während des tages gemacht wurde.
Mani the Monkey ich boulder so 6c+ / 7a glaubst du ich mache schnellere Fortschritte wenn ich anstatt ner Bouldersession ne reine Hangboardsession mach oder würdest du das erst in höheren Graden empfehlen ? Und danke für die schnelle Antwort :)
Good video! I actually thought about including some repeaters in my next training cycle. I tend to stick to "straight sets", i.e. hanging for time on edges that I can hold for about 30s, simply because I know the relations between extra weight and seconds that I can hold pretty well and I therefore don't have to do too much testing.. I know that the specificity to climbing should be higher with repeaters. From your experience, would you say that there is a huge difference between repeaters and "straight sets"?
Yes. The pump is definitely different, and another thing is that you can up the intensity of each hang due to the small 3s rests in between. It's definitely a step up in complexity and also difficulty (that's why I thought I'd term this "for intermediates" rather than "for beginners"), but I think if you can do it it's more effective in the long run.
Thanks! The part about the different pump is kind of what I thought, but it's definitely good to hear that! I might have to figure out, what the exact relations between the respective difficulties are. Thanks!
What do you think about doing frenchies while on the hangboard? I usually do this exact same workout, except i do the frenchie lockoffs during each repetition. Do you think this is usefull?
Sounds quite similar to what I have in mind for the follow up episode, if this is done right it can of course add an additional aspect to the training by engaging the upper body and lock off power.
Barbell Steve I bet you are a pretty big guy if you have been doing lots of deadlifting and your grip is probably pretty solid. Hangboards are great if you don't have access to actual climbing. Stay on bigger edges and slopes though. It can take a little while for the fingers to adapt to the different stress.
Thanks man, I'll definitely stay away from small edges and any crimps. My grip on a barbell is decent but that doesn't exactly translate to finger strength. Luckily I'm short so not too big or heavy for climbing.
Thumbs up for that cinematic Intro :P Another big piece of content is done, hope you've got something from it! Also: FIRST
Hi Mani, thanks for another awesome video! It would be amazing if you could make a tutorial on dyno technique. I am quite short and often I find it hard to reach holds statically, so learning how to dyno properly would help me a lot!
Never clicked so fast! Thanks again for the great video!!
again Mister =) Superbe video! Keep them comming! We love them!!!!
Two useful apps. The best is the one from Eva Lopez called complex timer. You can design your own workout, it takes little time to learn how to use it. The other one is much easier is the beastmaker app. Both of them are for free. Nice videos by the way 😃
Boulder Trainer is also a good one. It has countdowns for everything too so you aren’t always having to stare at a watch/phone.
Second ! Mani is back !
I love it!
I'm a v6 climber just starting to get into hangboarding to up my strength and was wondering where would be a good place to start. Next time at the gym I'm gonna try 5sec on 5sec off repeaters!!
How did this workout for you? I’m v6 right now and wondering if this is a good workout to start out with this
@@joecrimps i'd say that this is the gold standard hangboarding workout to do. after getting more experience hangboarding over the last few years, i can say that 7 secs on, 3 off, for sets of 1 min, works fantastically.
I would recommend that you are very COMFORTABLE with your hangboard, because it's pretty easy to tweak something small when you first start (and this goes against the point of training). Hang a couple edges with the goal of figuring out how your hands will feel the NEXT day. As soon as you're familiar with the load a certain workout will place on your fingers, the 7/3 for 1min sets are amazing. You should probably choose an edge that's quite a bit bigger than you'd initially want. The first set or two should feel easy-ish, like 80% of what you can handle, but by sets 3 and 4 you might be shaking and struggling to hang on. The volume is really what you want here. Repeaters like this are the real meat of a hangboard workout, and although I haven't done a TON of training cycles or anything like that, I can say that in my experience repeaters worked very well.
Hope this helped :)
Joseph Clifford Thank you so much for the reply 3 years later haha. Just tried it out for the first time and the last few rounds were super hard but i got a good pump. I’m gonna keep at this workout :)
@@joecrimps hell yeah lol, you're welcome. i'd say you have a few months more of gains with that workout plan. then you just move to a smaller edge or add weight, basically :)
happy training
Great video Mani, you are a true inspiration!
If you want to spend the money then the beastmaker app is veryuseful, you can custom make your own training using a beastmaker or any type of hangboard
hello, very good video, I would like to know
what do you think about the program of trainings of Eric Hurst (10 \ 12 seconds \ 2 \ 3 minutes of rest = 1set)
and how is your method of improving the strength of your fingers better or worse?
Do I do this before or after climbing? Or not on the same day at all?
Really nice video man! You mentioned that you train one arm hangs with the rope, have you ever tried it with specific amounts of weight off through a pulley and some dead rope? It's what I've been doing for the last few week and I've been seeing some nice gains, I also like to variate the lock position (20 degrees, 45 degrees, 90 degrees) with the sets. I do it with around 5kg off atm but I started with 9. I think it gives you a numerical value to exactly how much you're loading your fingers with so it's better than just using some rope on the side. Tell me what you think!
Very good input, back in the days I used this kind of pulley system (numerical value and so on) to get to the one armer. Never used it in relation to finger strength though, and unfortunately I don't have one available at the moment. But yeah I can definitely recommend it, seeing a numerical value keeps one motivated as you can track that you get closer to your goal.
I like to do mine on the 18mm edge, you should definitely give this method a go as a pulley isn' t too pricey.
www.amazon.co.uk/Petzl-Swing-Cheek-Pulley/dp/B000QA98W0
Hi Mani! Great Vid. Thank you. A lot of questions, sorry for that. I never know how to structure training. How does your recovery / training schedule (week, month, season) looks like? How one can have results and break trough plateau ? How many fingerboard-sessions per week? Is a fingerboard-session similar to campus board? How to mix it up with strength training (pull-ups, push-ups, rings)? Do you train strength and do your fingerboard-sessions also on the same day? Do you use the principle of supercompensation?
I am trying to get more strength into my fingers and I am thinking of putting in this workout into my work plan! How often do I have to do this a week in order to increase it you think?
Keep up the hard work Mani! love your videos!
Good question, I'd say 2 times a week would be a good start.
Wie immer gutes Video Mani :)
Wann sollte ich so eine Session machen ? (Direkt nach ner Bouldersession oder ein paar Stunden Pause dazwischen)
Und macht des überhaupt Sinn und bringt es noch einen Muskelstimulus nach ner 3 stündigen Bouldersession ?
Definitiv weniger Sinn nach einer 3h bouldersession da du dann weniger Zugriff auf deine eigentliche Fingerkraft hast, außerdem wirds dann auch gefährlicher was Verletzungsgefahr angeht. Wenn du anfänger bist was repeaters angeht würde ich einen tag für eine einzige session investieren und eventuell noch eine, und wenn man mehr gewöhnt daran ist kann mans später immer noch mit anderen sessions kombinieren, und hier bin ich selber eher jemand der die hangboard sessions am ende vom tag dranhängt, mit ein bisschen pause nach der eigentlichen bouldersession oder was immer während des tages gemacht wurde.
Mani the Monkey ich boulder so 6c+ / 7a glaubst du ich mache schnellere Fortschritte wenn ich anstatt ner Bouldersession ne reine Hangboardsession mach oder würdest du das erst in höheren Graden empfehlen ?
Und danke für die schnelle Antwort :)
Ich würde eigentlich nie eine (gute) Bouldersession durch eine reine Hangboard session ersetzen.
Good video! I actually thought about including some repeaters in my next training cycle. I tend to stick to "straight sets", i.e. hanging for time on edges that I can hold for about 30s, simply because I know the relations between extra weight and seconds that I can hold pretty well and I therefore don't have to do too much testing.. I know that the specificity to climbing should be higher with repeaters. From your experience, would you say that there is a huge difference between repeaters and "straight sets"?
Yes. The pump is definitely different, and another thing is that you can up the intensity of each hang due to the small 3s rests in between. It's definitely a step up in complexity and also difficulty (that's why I thought I'd term this "for intermediates" rather than "for beginners"), but I think if you can do it it's more effective in the long run.
Thanks! The part about the different pump is kind of what I thought, but it's definitely good to hear that! I might have to figure out, what the exact relations between the respective difficulties are. Thanks!
What do you think about doing frenchies while on the hangboard? I usually do this exact same workout, except i do the frenchie lockoffs during each repetition. Do you think this is usefull?
Sounds quite similar to what I have in mind for the follow up episode, if this is done right it can of course add an additional aspect to the training by engaging the upper body and lock off power.
What about doing pullups on hangboard?
We're going to talk about that relatively soon I think.
Great video Mani, do you recommend hangboard training for a beginner if they have done years of heavy deadlifts and weighted pull ups?
Barbell Steve I bet you are a pretty big guy if you have been doing lots of deadlifting and your grip is probably pretty solid. Hangboards are great if you don't have access to actual climbing. Stay on bigger edges and slopes though. It can take a little while for the fingers to adapt to the different stress.
Thanks man, I'll definitely stay away from small edges and any crimps. My grip on a barbell is decent but that doesn't exactly translate to finger strength. Luckily I'm short so not too big or heavy for climbing.
How many days per a week do you recommend ?
2 times a week is a good place to start.
Hi, would you recomend doing this workout before a climbing day ?
Hangboards are very overpriced. I think I will just make my own. Working with wood is very easy.
I can only agree.