Thank you for this video mani. I feel that you didn't want to make it too complex, and didn't go into the discussion as "why encore instead of repeaters instead of etc.." so I have some remarks! I have done many repeaters sessions in previous seasons, with beastmaker 2000 hang-board + weight to track precisely your personal best (I am quite surprised that you add weight so casually by the way, I think it tracks perfectly the progression, and can optimize the session too... doing repeaters to the limit is HARD!! and it pays off) I tried some times to do "encore" instead of repeaters, as it looks quite sweet to train arm + finger. here is my opinion : 1) I was nowhere near of my personal best done with repeaters, which means that it is less efficient to recruit finger muscle and I'm really unsure about the progression someone would have with this instead of repeaters. 2) What about the height of the board? if it is quite low, you don't have to do the pull-up for the 90° and 0° hang, which changes everything! I have never seen the information about that, and i'm quite curious 3) The order : straight-90-fully bent-straight-90-fully bent is really stupid IMHO. Why ? Obviously fully bent hang are the hardest of the three, particularly with the pull up. if you don't manage to finish the last hang, which happens quite often let's be honest, you take the risk of doing eccentric movement of biceps/forearm muscle while you fall and the high risk of injury with it. And you're supposed to add weight to kinda go to "the limit"... not important at all) Encore is a french word for "again", not sure that it has something to do with "core". Maybe some of you will disagree here but I feel like Encore is not a well established exercise, especially as a routine, doing it x time per week for y weeks/months. Personally, I would use Encore more as an exercise to get back into shape, or something i would do 3-4 days before going to the crag, but again, I'm not a big fan and rather not use it :)
Pretty good inputs here: Well so far I haven't really gone to my actual limit in an encores session, I used bonus weight but nowhere near my limit, at least not like in my repeaters sessions (although also here I simply need more weights in the meantime, I always use my rice bag as bonus weight and stuff, I simply need to get some heavier things now..), so I can't really tell you from my experience if my encores limit is actually much lower then my repeaters limit. However, there's something to training fingers and bent arms combined, even if at the beginning your bests might be lower. For my one armed hangs for example, I'm strongest on the 90° bent, and not on the straight arm. So although, or maybe because, you have to use more muscle groups to hold the position, it doesn't necessarily meant that you get a weaker input to your fingers, isolated from the rest. To keep comparability and engage the complete lock off package, I would simply always do the full pull up for my 90° and fully bent hangs, even if the hangboard hangs low. I cannot confirm that the fully bent position is the hardest to hold. In fact, for me all three feel quite similar, with maybe the 90° bent being the hardest. Although in the case you can identify a clearly hardest position, it would of course make sense to change up the order of your hangs in such way that you start with the hardest repetition. Cheers
Good input. Although this is not a recent video, I feel it is still one of the more useful information on the encore protocol. On Mountain Project, the info is very hazy and the “big names” in climbing training (Maisch, Bechtel, Hörst, Anderson Bros) don‘t have anything on it, afaik. I just completed a round of encores, 9 sessions, 6 types of grips, each 2 sets with +2kg on the 2nd set (it‘s a variation of the Andersons‘ intermediate repeater protocol and encores with some minor adjustments, ie less grip types and less bonus weight on the 2nd set), so a total of 12 sets per session. I hangboard throughout the year, following 2:1 ratio - 2 (Maximum Strength) : 1 (Repeaters). Main reason for trying: Getting a more “climbing like” training out of hangboarding because of having less access to good training facilities. And hey, lock-off power and finger strength in one go - what’s not to like? Observations: 1) It was considerably more demanding on my elbows than both my Maximum Strength and (normal) Repeaters in the past. 2) Depending on the grip type, the 180° bend was not possible while 180° and 90° were not taxing at all: sloper and for some reason 3 finger open on the small edge. 3) The outcome was less quantifiable than with Maximum Strength and (normal) Repeaters. 4) As expected, I also could not go as hard on encores as with (normal) Repeaters. 5) Not sure if it is more “climbing like”. No idea if my lock-off power increased. Not sure if it was weakness of mine to begin with. Personal Conclusion: I will not use Repeaters in the next year or so, mainly because of 1) and 3). Hangboarding is one of the few areas in climbing training where improvements are easy to track. So lets not jeopardise this for some unclear benefits - see 5) - and a major downside, see 3).
thanks for the tips Mani! There are a bunch of apps for counting the time, I really like one called "flexible interval timer" that simply scans a text file where you "program" the time you want to keep track. The advantage is that you can set ladders (say hang for 3s, 6s then 9s). You can prepare a bunch of workouts; it is more convenient to prepare the files on a pc, then transfer them to the phone. Keep up the great videos, they have the best content :)
Hey Mani, I remember watching the warm up video and you saying how it took you a long time before being able to do the splits. I've been working on the splits for a while and seeing little progress, can you add how you got to the point where you did the splits if you make the stretching video?
Hi mani, have you tried the impetus interval timer app for handies and tablets? I use it for my hangboarding. it's free and programmable... and beeps between the intervals.
Hi Mani, Thank for your videos to-date. I have gained something form every video I have watched. I am hoping you can you give me some training trips. I am it a bit of a dilemma since I have just moved for work to a town that doesn't have a climbing or bouldering gym for my mid week training sessions. I was really getting to a great place with my climbing and want to keep progressing despite this barrier. Yesterday I found a great outdoor bouldering spot so I purchased a crash mat and intend to head there after work when I can ( the rocks are by the sea so the tide has to be out). I was also thinking of constructing a hang-board this weekend to keep my finger strength up. Any other tips? Some strength training??? I will be able to climb outdoors on the weekend its just mid week I am concerned about. Any tips would be really appreciated. Cheers, Sonya
What about the size of the edge? is it supposed you have to be able to finish all three repetitions? For example, Eva Lopez suggests you have to hang 10s on an edge where you are only able to hang for 13 seconds
Normally I use what I call a "medium edge", something in between 20 and 24mm. I think that's a good place to start, to increase difficulty you can of course make the edge smaller.
You should consider using an interval timer like GymBoss in lieu of a stopwatch. This will make your workouts more efficient because you spend less mental energy counting seconds and more time focusing on the hangs themselves.
![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for this video mani. I feel that you didn't want to make it too complex, and didn't go into the discussion as "why encore instead of repeaters instead of etc.." so I have some remarks!
I have done many repeaters sessions in previous seasons, with beastmaker 2000 hang-board + weight to track precisely your personal best (I am quite surprised that you add weight so casually by the way, I think it tracks perfectly the progression, and can optimize the session too... doing repeaters to the limit is HARD!! and it pays off)
I tried some times to do "encore" instead of repeaters, as it looks quite sweet to train arm + finger.
here is my opinion :
1) I was nowhere near of my personal best done with repeaters, which means that it is less efficient to recruit finger muscle and I'm really unsure about the progression someone would have with this instead of repeaters.
2) What about the height of the board? if it is quite low, you don't have to do the pull-up for the 90° and 0° hang, which changes everything! I have never seen the information about that, and i'm quite curious
3) The order : straight-90-fully bent-straight-90-fully bent is really stupid IMHO. Why ? Obviously fully bent hang are the hardest of the three, particularly with the pull up. if you don't manage to finish the last hang, which happens quite often let's be honest, you take the risk of doing eccentric movement of biceps/forearm muscle while you fall and the high risk of injury with it. And you're supposed to add weight to kinda go to "the limit"...
not important at all) Encore is a french word for "again", not sure that it has something to do with "core".
Maybe some of you will disagree here but I feel like Encore is not a well established exercise, especially as a routine, doing it x time per week for y weeks/months.
Personally, I would use Encore more as an exercise to get back into shape, or something i would do 3-4 days before going to the crag, but again, I'm not a big fan and rather not use it :)
Pretty good inputs here:
Well so far I haven't really gone to my actual limit in an encores session, I used bonus weight but nowhere near my limit, at least not like in my repeaters sessions (although also here I simply need more weights in the meantime, I always use my rice bag as bonus weight and stuff, I simply need to get some heavier things now..), so I can't really tell you from my experience if my encores limit is actually much lower then my repeaters limit.
However, there's something to training fingers and bent arms combined, even if at the beginning your bests might be lower. For my one armed hangs for example, I'm strongest on the 90° bent, and not on the straight arm. So although, or maybe because, you have to use more muscle groups to hold the position, it doesn't necessarily meant that you get a weaker input to your fingers, isolated from the rest.
To keep comparability and engage the complete lock off package, I would simply always do the full pull up for my 90° and fully bent hangs, even if the hangboard hangs low.
I cannot confirm that the fully bent position is the hardest to hold. In fact, for me all three feel quite similar, with maybe the 90° bent being the hardest. Although in the case you can identify a clearly hardest position, it would of course make sense to change up the order of your hangs in such way that you start with the hardest repetition.
Cheers
Good input. Although this is not a recent video, I feel it is still one of the more useful information on the encore protocol. On Mountain Project, the info is very hazy and the “big names” in climbing training (Maisch, Bechtel, Hörst, Anderson Bros) don‘t have anything on it, afaik.
I just completed a round of encores, 9 sessions, 6 types of grips, each 2 sets with +2kg on the 2nd set (it‘s a variation of the Andersons‘ intermediate repeater protocol and encores with some minor adjustments, ie less grip types and less bonus weight on the 2nd set), so a total of 12 sets per session.
I hangboard throughout the year, following 2:1 ratio - 2 (Maximum Strength) : 1 (Repeaters).
Main reason for trying: Getting a more “climbing like” training out of hangboarding because of having less access to good training facilities. And hey, lock-off power and finger strength in one go - what’s not to like?
Observations:
1) It was considerably more demanding on my elbows than both my Maximum Strength and (normal) Repeaters in the past.
2) Depending on the grip type, the 180° bend was not possible while 180° and 90° were not taxing at all: sloper and for some reason 3 finger open on the small edge.
3) The outcome was less quantifiable than with Maximum Strength and (normal) Repeaters.
4) As expected, I also could not go as hard on encores as with (normal) Repeaters.
5) Not sure if it is more “climbing like”. No idea if my lock-off power increased. Not sure if it was weakness of mine to begin with.
Personal Conclusion: I will not use Repeaters in the next year or so, mainly because of 1) and 3). Hangboarding is one of the few areas in climbing training where improvements are easy to track. So lets not jeopardise this for some unclear benefits - see 5) - and a major downside, see 3).
You can also use a metronome set to 60 Beats per minute to time you. Listen to the beeps, and you'll know it's exactly one second.
"What is up," Mani. Thanks for an awesome, "old-school" vid. Nice tunes too
Keep it up! Looking forward for more videos from you, don't stop!
Super cool! i follow the "beastmaker workout regimen" at my gym, and use a metronome at home because i cant place my stop watch conveniently haha.
Awesome tips Mani , thanks!👍🏽👍🏾
thanks for the tips Mani! There are a bunch of apps for counting the time, I really like one called "flexible interval timer" that simply scans a text file where you "program" the time you want to keep track. The advantage is that you can set ladders (say hang for 3s, 6s then 9s).
You can prepare a bunch of workouts; it is more convenient to prepare the files on a pc, then transfer them to the phone.
Keep up the great videos, they have the best content :)
Ronaldo Messina "Hangboard Repeaters" is also pretty nice
Mani do You have a video about stretching sessions for climbers? I'd like to see your insight, tips and tricks on it!
I've got a video with my warmup up routine, which also contains some stretching. But I will make a new one about this topic I think.
Hey Mani, I remember watching the warm up video and you saying how it took you a long time before being able to do the splits. I've been working on the splits for a while and seeing little progress, can you add how you got to the point where you did the splits if you make the stretching video?
Awesome videos Mani! Your content quality is definitely going through the roof!
I've used the "hang timer" app for hangboard sessions. It's a simple app and gives you what you need for a hangboard workout
Hi mani, have you tried the impetus interval timer app for handies and tablets? I use it for my hangboarding. it's free and programmable... and beeps between the intervals.
holy pump sauce. this was amazing.
Hi Mani,
Thank for your videos to-date. I have gained something form every video I have watched.
I am hoping you can you give me some training trips. I am it a bit of a dilemma since I have just moved for work to a town that doesn't have a climbing or bouldering gym for my mid week training sessions. I was really getting to a great place with my climbing and want to keep progressing despite this barrier. Yesterday I found a great outdoor bouldering spot so I purchased a crash mat and intend to head there after work when I can ( the rocks are by the sea so the tide has to be out). I was also thinking of constructing a hang-board this weekend to keep my finger strength up. Any other tips? Some strength training???
I will be able to climb outdoors on the weekend its just mid week I am concerned about. Any tips would be really appreciated.
Cheers,
Sonya
Hey Mani, thank you for the videos. I see you have created your own hangboard but is there any handboard for sale you would recommend ?
how many times per week do you do this type of encores?
You can start doing either repeaters or encores two times a week I would say.
What about the size of the edge? is it supposed you have to be able to finish all three repetitions? For example, Eva Lopez suggests you have to hang 10s on an edge where you are only able to hang for 13 seconds
Normally I use what I call a "medium edge", something in between 20 and 24mm. I think that's a good place to start, to increase difficulty you can of course make the edge smaller.
was that dog food and bananas into the back pack hahaha brilliant. Thanks Mani, great work and thanks for the lesson :-)
I know some climbers whi had neck problems doing pull ups with backpack. maybe clipping on your harness would be healthier.
You should consider using an interval timer like GymBoss in lieu of a stopwatch. This will make your workouts more efficient because you spend less mental energy counting seconds and more time focusing on the hangs themselves.
The BeastMaker app also does a good job of this. You can create custom timers to measure out hang times, rest times, and reps.
How long do you rest for in betwen the sets ?
sophie merguez He said 2 to 3 minutes.
How is 180. Fully bent?
Have you ever tried bending your arms more than 180 degrees?