Who likes to know where my 'new' Fillister Plane (Falzhobel for the germans) is from, here is a interesting link for you: th-cam.com/video/6daS6xZh50s/w-d-xo.html
I spent the day (as most) timber framing and some light carpentry...I come in to see the work of friends and colleagues are up to and Little Forest resets my enthusiasm for the next day's tasks...Blessing to you for a wonderfully present video and the work you do...
You are a very special craftsman its like going back in time to when people had to rely on what resources were on their land please keep the videos coming
Wow, this patterned alder is really beautiful! No need for Zebrano or other tropical woods. I would wish to pass by and get a piece of it... Looking forward for your next project ;-)
Oh yes, it is a nice wood. You can pass by, i have a big stuck of this Alder. For sure, there are some more of these nice pieces in it. It should have gone for firewood, but luky me, i got it for free . For the videos, i'll do my best - and try to keep quality over quantity - its also a way to be bit lazy ;-)
Amazing wood! I mistook it for maple... I cut down a sugar maple of ours and seasoned it for 2 years before milling it. It looks EXACTLY like the wood you're using ❤️
Hello Michele :-) The saw is the 'William Greaves' made by Thomas Flinn in Sheffield. I chose the long one (66cm) with 4,5 TPI. For softwood it is perfect, for very dry hardwood it could be bit finer, more TPI.
Thanx Klabam3944 for answering. @pauln569 if you want to know more about this saw and ripcut, cut following the grain, check my video i made about it: Hand-powered Sawmill. in the text, there is some more information about the saw. Sorry for answering so late!
Have you considered splitting/riving those bigger logs to get your panels/boards? Peter Follansbee does a lot of work that way and it seems like it might cut down on some of your sawing.
No, not in this case. With the wood i used, splitting would not have been a good idea. I would just have got some little firewood out of it. It can be a good idea if using the right wood. Some kind of woods like Ash or Cedar might do well specially if fresh. But dried, mushroom checked Alder, no i do not think that it would work.
Try reducing the amount of set in your saws. The blade will follow the kerf and if you have the right amount of set, the saw will follow in the kerf and will not wander so much. This all assumes the saw plate is flat and fair.
Hmmm...???...His saw set looked great to me and I didn't see any wandering at all per se outside the normal modality for this system of ripping...Could you share the time marker for what you had observed that seemed out of set or wandering as I would like to review it and must have missed it...Thank you...
I have actually been really happy with my saw and its setting. The boards have been quite flat, no need to set the saw... Did it look like the saw has been wandering?
@@littleforest My question was sincere, but as too often is the case we get a lot of "armchair" experts or "wood machinists" commenting about traditional (aka ORIGINAL) woodworking methods of which they know little and/or only know it from books, watching videos, or experimentation... I watched again tonight and observed...NOTHING...incorrect about your saw set or the applied means to which you used the saw... I would also point out that reducing the saw set can...SOMETIMES...be effective with some saw types but is typically not necessary anyway as seldom does a traditional carpenter saw to the line on a project but rather parrs to the line with chisel or plane. On the occasion when we do "saw to the line" saw kerf is of little regard...If "kerfing a joint" we actually want more set in the teeth typically as in boat building, and some traditional wood jointing modalities... Looking forward to your next video...!!!
@@littleforest i would lend mine as well but you built a beautiful frame saw on your video some weeks ago. My frame saw has the same german Blade as yours
Who likes to know where my 'new' Fillister Plane (Falzhobel for the germans) is from, here is a interesting link for you: th-cam.com/video/6daS6xZh50s/w-d-xo.html
Danke und ein tolles Projekt
Sehr gerne! Es war mir eine echte Freude diesen Hobel endlich zu nutzen.
Einen wirklich wunderbaren Kanal betreibst du hier. Allerbeste Grüße, Dominik
Vielen Dank! Auch für Deinen Kanal - woher die ein oder andere Inspiration hergekommen ist ;-)
Du hast die Faszination über die Arbeit mit Handwerkzeugen sehr gut eingefangen.
Gruß Andreas
Freut mich, wenn es so angekommen ist :-)
I spent the day (as most) timber framing and some light carpentry...I come in to see the work of friends and colleagues are up to and Little Forest resets my enthusiasm for the next day's tasks...Blessing to you for a wonderfully present video and the work you do...
The shavings and the sound at 4:20 are just unbelievable!
You are a very special craftsman its like going back in time to when people had to rely on what resources were on their land please keep the videos coming
Wow, this patterned alder is really beautiful! No need for Zebrano or other tropical woods. I would wish to pass by and get a piece of it...
Looking forward for your next project ;-)
Oh yes, it is a nice wood. You can pass by, i have a big stuck of this Alder. For sure, there are some more of these nice pieces in it. It should have gone for firewood, but luky me, i got it for free .
For the videos, i'll do my best - and try to keep quality over quantity - its also a way to be bit lazy ;-)
Amazing wood! I mistook it for maple... I cut down a sugar maple of ours and seasoned it for 2 years before milling it. It looks EXACTLY like the wood you're using ❤️
You deserve a good band saw.
That's the way to do hand cut dovetails!! Great project all around.
I find hard to make dovetails in spalted wood sice the spalted areas are prone to break more, really nice work
Well done. Good work.
Thanks for the cute video that is didactically very interesting. What is the brand of the ripcut saw? where to buy it?
Hello Michele :-)
The saw is the 'William Greaves' made by Thomas Flinn in Sheffield. I chose the long one (66cm) with 4,5 TPI. For softwood it is perfect, for very dry hardwood it could be bit finer, more TPI.
Very beautiful, the workshop as well as the landscapes. I almost feel like moving to Finland. Fillister plane is made in Vienna by Joh. Weiss & Sohn
Yep, you are right. Some 'new' tools arrived from Austria :-)
Das ist großartig.
beautiful work.
Nice work, great video, thanks!
Beautifully made 👍
beautiful
What type of saw are you using?
Which one you mean?
The Hand saw in the first part of the video.
He mentioned it: Williams Greaves 66 cm rip cut
Thanx Klabam3944 for answering.
@pauln569 if you want to know more about this saw and ripcut, cut following the grain, check my video i made about it: Hand-powered Sawmill. in the text, there is some more information about the saw.
Sorry for answering so late!
Have you considered splitting/riving those bigger logs to get your panels/boards? Peter Follansbee does a lot of work that way and it seems like it might cut down on some of your sawing.
No, not in this case. With the wood i used, splitting would not have been a good idea. I would just have got some little firewood out of it. It can be a good idea if using the right wood. Some kind of woods like Ash or Cedar might do well specially if fresh. But dried, mushroom checked Alder, no i do not think that it would work.
Vídeo muito legal parabéns
May I ask what kind of wood was that?
Did you read the video description? There, you will find further information :-)
Bravo
Try reducing the amount of set in your saws. The blade will follow the kerf and if you have the right amount of set, the saw will follow in the kerf and will not wander so much. This all assumes the saw plate is flat and fair.
Hmmm...???...His saw set looked great to me and I didn't see any wandering at all per se outside the normal modality for this system of ripping...Could you share the time marker for what you had observed that seemed out of set or wandering as I would like to review it and must have missed it...Thank you...
I have actually been really happy with my saw and its setting. The boards have been quite flat, no need to set the saw... Did it look like the saw has been wandering?
@@littleforest My question was sincere, but as too often is the case we get a lot of "armchair" experts or "wood machinists" commenting about traditional (aka ORIGINAL) woodworking methods of which they know little and/or only know it from books, watching videos, or experimentation...
I watched again tonight and observed...NOTHING...incorrect about your saw set or the applied means to which you used the saw...
I would also point out that reducing the saw set can...SOMETIMES...be effective with some saw types but is typically not necessary anyway as seldom does a traditional carpenter saw to the line on a project but rather parrs to the line with chisel or plane. On the occasion when we do "saw to the line" saw kerf is of little regard...If "kerfing a joint" we actually want more set in the teeth typically as in boat building, and some traditional wood jointing modalities...
Looking forward to your next video...!!!
why not a frame saw to rip cut a log? its faster
If you borrow me your's...
@@littleforest i would lend mine as well but you built a beautiful frame saw on your video some weeks ago. My frame saw has the same german Blade as yours
@@carlopieracci2828 ah, this one... Yes, could usw it, but i was too laisy to change tha blade:)
@@littleforest One day let us see the way you sharpen It and set the teeth 😉
Mr. Chickadee made a nice video on it. There is all needed there, so i might not 'repeat' it. Take a look on his channel if you like!
Bravo