Not all the time, and not all the tools do that, you have to work with what you have, plus if you need to repair or need to make it virgin again you will need almost always to open it.
I don't do this stuff often enough to justify the purchase of such tools... If I was doing this more often, then yes, would make sense the investment... 👍👍👍
Great video. I have an issue with my Bosch DME on a 2004 BMW 645ci pins have corrosion and moving. I heard those can be replaced. How do you remove the circuit board. What would you suggest. Clone to a donor DME or try and replace the black bracket.
I noticed about 5 or so in the same section. The car was driving fine one day then would not start after that. It’s done that before. So I started checking fuses and relays then found the DME had corrosion. I had a pick tool and lightly touched a pin and noticed it moved. 😩
OK Depending on their position you can remove them and install new pins or used from a donor ecu, without having to remove or replace the entire socket... To remove the entire socket if you want to go that way, you need a heat gun, and just remove it carefully...
Thank Luis for your sharing.I don´t know if you have already tryed but I use m5 screws that will pull up a little the cover just enough to pass a small cutter blade.You don´t want to over tight the screws because the aluminium cover is thin.bye
Yes... there is one or two types of glue where the heat helps... on these ones, not really... I have always find that the heat makes no difference... and when the ecu edges get hot, makes it more difficult to handle... 👍👍👍
the reason & electronic or software repair technic interests me more than how to open an ecu.of course it is important not to damage anything while opening it but if someone decide to open ecu cover has to be training before than that.thank you for the lesson.Regards
Good video as ever, and you are absolutely correct about which side of the cover to start from, but…. You really MUST use heat to soften the sealant, particularly where the cover is bonded to the PCB as it can all too easily rip the circuit traces off the board if done cold, also be very careful about the sealant, most silicone sealants (RTV) are “acetoxy cure” or “acid cure” - this gives off acetic acid gas (Vinigar smell) which is highly corrosive to live electronics & must NOT be used on ECUs- a major cause of failure after certain ‘remap’ companies have dabbled with it, sometimes needing replacing after just a few months! - I don’t know about the exact spec of the particular sealant you are using, if it’s labeled as “neutral cure” or “non-corrosive” then it will be safe - on top of that it really doesn’t seal very well (We’ve all tried & failed at fixing a leaky sunroof or windscreen & realised it’s poor) - best to use a modern PH neutral polymer sealant / bonding agent, the advantage of that is that unlike ‘Tiger seal’ (P.U based) is that it lasts a long time when unused & it’s available in an OE looking grey!
Thanks for the detailed comment! I have been using this type of sealant for years, and never had any issues. That said, I am very careful with the amount of sealant I apply, as I have many times opened ecus that have been previously sealed, and the excessive amount of sealant applied was all spread on the PCB... 👍👍👍
I have them, and I have tried them... I didn't really like them, and they haven't done that good of a job... I feel way more comfortable doing it this way... 👍👍👍
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. So I went and opened the DME. Now need to see how to remove the circuit board. I don’t want to mess it up. Is that glued in as well.🎉😊👏👏😄🤩
I will try in AM and see what happens. I applied a little pressure but didn’t want to push too much on board. I will check your video library. I’ve seen you work on this things a lot. 👍👌🥳😎
Any suggestions for this problem I have. We got a flood damaged Audi A3 2016 after stripping it down getting it dry finding plugs etc that needed attention we were left with a canbus short when the airbag module was plugged in with a numbers matching used module canbus problem was solved codes cleared just a component protection code from the airbag module so we sent the modules to the guys we use to clone them and they couldn't get any data off the original and they recommend taking it to someone with vag so we did and after a session live with Audi they had no luck communicating with the module and said it could be that it might not be from a Audi maybe VW and to ether get a new one or one that was definitely from a Audi
320d m47 2006 not starting. No com to DME. DME has power and it looks good. is there any reason to try to look at the other side of the ecu to check for burns etc?
did you try prying it with screws? like with MMS tools? I had tried on few ecus, used screws and heat gun, didn't even bend back cover. good job and good tutorial as usual. best regards
Mr LM Auto, the guy that started my journey into repairs especially bmw, here in South Africa I wait every Sunday morning to watch your channel it's also frustrating cause its like your favourite series you have to wait the whole week to watch😂😂😂 One of the most detail automotive repair channel on TH-cam👌👌👌 Today's question sir, with regards to Kess / ktag is what the difference between clone and original is it advisable to purchase for reading Tricore processor I'm trying to read a W166 mercedes benz ml250 2013 TRICORE 1793F are they cloneable and if possible a link to buy the correct ktag tools, thanking you in advance 🙏
The difference is obviously the quality and support... and do not forget the price! A good clone and you can do most of the work pretty comfortably... but you are really going to do loads of these jobs, I would recommend original... There is plenty of places selling the clones that have been reworked, which is basically a clone unit, that had all the cheap components replaced with quality ones... I would search for those... 👍👍👍
I have been watching your videos for a long time. Your videos are gorgeous and instructive. But it is not getting the expected like views. I noticed some problems on your channel if you want I can give you tips for growing up.
my favorite diagnosis and car repair channel
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Thanks!
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I very much doubt I'll ever do this, but I found this video absolutely fascinating. 👍🔧
😊
Thanks!
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Nowadays exist many-many adapter that full read-write content of Tricore, even Eeprom, without need to open cover.
Yes but sometimes when ECU is bricked, dead or for repair
@@thesmartguy3523 Very rare cases....
Not all the time, and not all the tools do that, you have to work with what you have, plus if you need to repair or need to make it virgin again you will need almost always to open it.
I don't do this stuff often enough to justify the purchase of such tools...
If I was doing this more often, then yes, would make sense the investment...
👍👍👍
@@fabini14 As I sayed, you can read/write even eeprom without to open! And exist same tool very cheap - that make this work!
best guide to open ecu,you probably dont even need that much heat just this guide. thankyou.
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Great video. I have an issue with my Bosch DME on a 2004 BMW 645ci pins have corrosion and moving. I heard those can be replaced. How do you remove the circuit board. What would you suggest. Clone to a donor DME or try and replace the black bracket.
Hi
How many pins do you need change?
👍
I noticed about 5 or so in the same section. The car was driving fine one day then would not start after that. It’s done that before. So I started checking fuses and relays then found the DME had corrosion. I had a pick tool and lightly touched a pin and noticed it moved. 😩
OK
Depending on their position you can remove them and install new pins or used from a donor ecu, without having to remove or replace the entire socket...
To remove the entire socket if you want to go that way, you need a heat gun, and just remove it carefully...
Very nice Luis i love watching this kind of content
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Thank Luis for your sharing.I don´t know if you have already tryed but I use m5 screws that will pull up a little the cover just enough to pass a small cutter blade.You don´t want to over tight the screws because the aluminium cover is thin.bye
Yes... I have them, and tried them...
But personally, didn't really like to use them...
I feel way more confident doing it this way...
👍👍👍
Why not use heat? I know there are different types of glue but most of them get soft when hot
Yes... there is one or two types of glue where the heat helps... on these ones, not really... I have always find that the heat makes no difference... and when the ecu edges get hot, makes it more difficult to handle...
👍👍👍
Do loads of Bosch ECU. Got into the habit of using heat but as above, I'm not sure it makes a difference.
Next time will try without.
the reason & electronic or software repair technic interests me more than how to open an ecu.of course it is important not to damage anything while opening it but if someone decide to open ecu cover has to be training before than that.thank you for the lesson.Regards
☺️
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Great video! Can't believe I'm only finding your channel now!
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I am here for some time...
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worst part is the heatsink part on the board for the driver chips gets such a grip!
Very true...
It is the part that scares me the most!🤪
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Good video as ever, and you are absolutely correct about which side of the cover to start from, but…. You really MUST use heat to soften the sealant, particularly where the cover is bonded to the PCB as it can all too easily rip the circuit traces off the board if done cold, also be very careful about the sealant, most silicone sealants (RTV) are “acetoxy cure” or “acid cure” - this gives off acetic acid gas (Vinigar smell) which is highly corrosive to live electronics & must NOT be used on ECUs- a major cause of failure after certain ‘remap’ companies have dabbled with it, sometimes needing replacing after just a few months! - I don’t know about the exact spec of the particular sealant you are using, if it’s labeled as “neutral cure” or “non-corrosive” then it will be safe - on top of that it really doesn’t seal very well (We’ve all tried & failed at fixing a leaky sunroof or windscreen & realised it’s poor) - best to use a modern PH neutral polymer sealant / bonding agent, the advantage of that is that unlike ‘Tiger seal’ (P.U based) is that it lasts a long time when unused & it’s available in an OE looking grey!
Thanks for the detailed comment!
I have been using this type of sealant for years, and never had any issues.
That said, I am very careful with the amount of sealant I apply, as I have many times opened ecus that have been previously sealed, and the excessive amount of sealant applied was all spread on the PCB...
👍👍👍
I put mines on a electric flat stove tops rectangular in shape on 250 Fahrenheit for 10 minutes they come apart like a knife thru butter
I will might try that next time...
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good morning Luis have you seen the special screws you can get to remove the cover
I have them, and I have tried them...
I didn't really like them, and they haven't done that good of a job...
I feel way more comfortable doing it this way...
👍👍👍
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. So I went and opened the DME. Now need to see how to remove the circuit board. I don’t want to mess it up. Is that glued in as well.🎉😊👏👏😄🤩
Hi
Yes... the black plug and part of the board is also glued...
I will try in AM and see what happens. I applied a little pressure but didn’t want to push too much on board. I will check your video library. I’ve seen you work on this things a lot. 👍👌🥳😎
Yes... plenty of opened ecus on the channel...
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Any suggestions for this problem I have. We got a flood damaged Audi A3 2016 after stripping it down getting it dry finding plugs etc that needed attention we were left with a canbus short when the airbag module was plugged in with a numbers matching used module canbus problem was solved codes cleared just a component protection code from the airbag module so we sent the modules to the guys we use to clone them and they couldn't get any data off the original and they recommend taking it to someone with vag so we did and after a session live with Audi they had no luck communicating with the module and said it could be that it might not be from a Audi maybe VW and to ether get a new one or one that was definitely from a Audi
I would try what was suggested to you...
But would also check wiring to ensure there is no issues causing the communication issue...
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Thanks great video. Just out of curiosity what is the black plug hiding on the top side of the ecu I’ve seen this a few times on other ecu’s
That is just a breather...
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Have you not used compressed air it comes off in 2 seconds
Can you post a link that show how to do it with compressed air?
@@planet1250 just take the vent rubber out and blow compressed air in, obvious not full power, it will pop and come off easily
@@AnthGott not sure how the ambient pressure sensor would like 120 psi blasted into it!
I was just thinking the same about the pressure sensor...
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@@tecfixed2840 yeah it hasn't broken yet though 😂
Thx luis ... but why you don't use the heat gun?🎉🎉🎉
On certain types of glue the heat gun helps, but I found that in the majority it doesn't, and once the ecu is hot, it is difficult to handle...
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320d m47 2006 not starting. No com to DME. DME has power and it looks good. is there any reason to try to look at the other side of the ecu to check for burns etc?
Have you checked CAN lines?
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@@LMAutoRepairs I'm not sure how to. Good video idea for you maybe? :D
Good information sir🎉
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why did you not heat it a little
I normally use a heat gun did one other day
One a couple types of glue yes, the heat helps...
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Good morning Luis. Thanks for the video clip. Sorry for asking but what was the original fault on the ECU that made you diagnose the issue? Cheers 😊
I don't recall that now...
But whatever it was, most likely made into a video... stay tuned! ☺️
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Hi.
Can you please tell me where you are based, or how I can contact with you. The car was in 4 or 5 garages, still no lock with repair.
Thank you.
Just apply some isopropyl alcohol and heat it up. It'll open up without bending/scratching anything.
Will try next time...
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Thank you
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Sir which ktag are using chinese version or original version
Clone...
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Good job, but you need a better flasher equipment, to do these by pinout without opening them.
If I was doing this time of stuff often enough, yes, I would...
But to do one every now and then, it is not justifiable financially yet...
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did you try prying it with screws? like with MMS tools? I had tried on few ecus, used screws and heat gun, didn't even bend back cover. good job and good tutorial as usual. best regards
I tried the bolts, but didn't really like it... but that's me...☺️
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hi there, how do i dm you bro, need some help with my folks Peugeot i suspect i made things worse...from SA CPT
thnks
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Mr LM Auto, the guy that started my journey into repairs especially bmw, here in South Africa I wait every Sunday morning to watch your channel it's also frustrating cause its like your favourite series you have to wait the whole week to watch😂😂😂
One of the most detail automotive repair channel on TH-cam👌👌👌
Today's question sir, with regards to Kess / ktag is what the difference between clone and original is it advisable to purchase for reading Tricore processor
I'm trying to read a W166 mercedes benz ml250 2013 TRICORE 1793F are they cloneable and if possible a link to buy the correct ktag tools, thanking you in advance 🙏
The difference is obviously the quality and support... and do not forget the price!
A good clone and you can do most of the work pretty comfortably... but you are really going to do loads of these jobs, I would recommend original...
There is plenty of places selling the clones that have been reworked, which is basically a clone unit, that had all the cheap components replaced with quality ones...
I would search for those...
👍👍👍
Thank you very much, I really appreciate it
top
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I have been watching your videos for a long time. Your videos are gorgeous and instructive. But it is not getting the expected like views. I noticed some problems on your channel if you want I can give you tips for growing up.
Not quite the way i do it.But similar
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just get a heat gun, heat the edges an this process will be much easier
On some types of glue yes... makes it a bit easier...
In most of the others, my experience is that it makes really no difference...
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