Nice work. I like the lathe surfacing of the head. About 45 years ago I skimmed a 12G202 head with the only thing available to me at the time, a shaper machine, head worked fine till I replaced it with the better 12G295. This was on a 1098 cc engine for a Mini.
In Australia, we were fairly lucky 45 years ago as Morris 1100 autos and Minimatics had 12G295 heads. We also had a car called a Morris 1100 'S'. These babies were fitted with 1275s with 2 different block casting numbers, 12G 949 had forged cranks and Cooper 'S' rods but had a weak spot above the centre main and were fitted with sleeves in the bores, which prevented over-boring. Then there were the 12G1279 castings, which had lesser cranks and rods but no sleeves in the bores and no weak spot above the centre main. They were basically Spridget blocks turned 90 degrees. The good thing was that all the bits were interchangeable. It just so happened that we were on good terms with the local English Auto Wreckers, who would turn a blind eye whilst we made engines out of all the good bits and only pay for one block. They were happy and so were we I had one of these hybrid 1275s in my 13-inch wheel Mini Moke. Coupled with an Mk1 Cooper 'S' head and twin 1 3/4" SU carbies of an Austin Kimberly (2200s in England) and I had a bit of a rocket. We were also on first name terms with RPM Engines, the local engine machinist who we would get to make anything we wanted (Custom camshafts, balancing, lightened flywheels etc) and also on first name terms with Settlement Exhausts, the local exhaust shop who also made any exhaust we wanted. No one even mentioned the words "Street legal" in those days. Ah, memories.
@@dalybazI bought a junk car that ended up having a 1220cc engine in it. It was a 1100 with Hillman Imp Pistons in it. I didn't even know you could do such a thing. Because of the longer stroke, it went as well or better than a Cooper S. I then pulled it all apart, had it heavily modified, including using a heavily modified 850cc head and slapped that on top of a MKII Minimatic box. The thing made just over 110Bhp AT THE WHEELS! the thing was a Cooper S killer for sure. Thing was a bit rough at idle, but that was because of the 'Scatter Cam' and auto.
@@doraexplora9046 I've found that the 1100 engines tend to go bang if you hot them up. 1220 using imp pistons is cutting things a bit fine. Use a std camshaft and don't rev them too hard. Maybe even tuftride the crank and lighten all the reciprocating bits to get the thing reliable. Bear in mind that the 1100 engine was designed for a series of granny cars.
SUBBED, Love the OLD SCHOOL MACHINING. Got to KEEP these Minis on the Road. Now at 50 I;m Deffo Going To Buy another, To HOON around the Welsh Countryside where i Live. Started out On Minis [Got the Old David Vizard book] How to Tune An A Series.
I think you mentioned that you had used Neway valve Seat cutters before. Can you tell me which ones I need to do the 30 and 60 degree top and bottom cuts. I might be able to get a SH set but it only comes with the 46 degree cutter.
Hi I have a selection of older neway cutters, check the reference numbers with the neway site for 30, 70 and 60 cutters or use three angle cutter blades in a 45 degree body.
Hi Stuart. When you press the valve guides in are you using the adjustable stop on top of the flypress to set the guide height or are you pressing them in flush with the top faceof the cylinder head?
Great to watch. Thanks for going to all the trouble of putting this together.
Thanks
Nice work. I like the lathe surfacing of the head.
About 45 years ago I skimmed a 12G202 head with the only thing available to me at the time, a shaper machine, head worked fine till I replaced it with the better 12G295. This was on a 1098 cc engine for a Mini.
They used shapers for the factory cyl head surfacing
In Australia, we were fairly lucky 45 years ago as Morris 1100 autos and Minimatics had 12G295 heads. We also had a car called a Morris 1100 'S'. These babies were fitted with 1275s with 2 different block casting numbers, 12G 949 had forged cranks and Cooper 'S' rods but had a weak spot above the centre main and were fitted with sleeves in the bores, which prevented over-boring. Then there were the 12G1279 castings, which had lesser cranks and rods but no sleeves in the bores and no weak spot above the centre main. They were basically Spridget blocks turned 90 degrees. The good thing was that all the bits were interchangeable. It just so happened that we were on good terms with the local English Auto Wreckers, who would turn a blind eye whilst we made engines out of all the good bits and only pay for one block. They were happy and so were we I had one of these hybrid 1275s in my 13-inch wheel Mini Moke. Coupled with an Mk1 Cooper 'S' head and twin 1 3/4" SU carbies of an Austin Kimberly (2200s in England) and I had a bit of a rocket. We were also on first name terms with RPM Engines, the local engine machinist who we would get to make anything we wanted (Custom camshafts, balancing, lightened flywheels etc) and also on first name terms with Settlement Exhausts, the local exhaust shop who also made any exhaust we wanted. No one even mentioned the words "Street legal" in those days. Ah, memories.
@@dalybazI bought a junk car that ended up having a 1220cc engine in it. It was a 1100 with Hillman Imp Pistons in it. I didn't even know you could do such a thing. Because of the longer stroke, it went as well or better than a Cooper S. I then pulled it all apart, had it heavily modified, including using a heavily modified 850cc head and slapped that on top of a MKII Minimatic box. The thing made just over 110Bhp AT THE WHEELS! the thing was a Cooper S killer for sure. Thing was a bit rough at idle, but that was because of the 'Scatter Cam' and auto.
@@doraexplora9046 I've found that the 1100 engines tend to go bang if you hot them up. 1220 using imp pistons is cutting things a bit fine. Use a std camshaft and don't rev them too hard. Maybe even tuftride the crank and lighten all the reciprocating bits to get the thing reliable. Bear in mind that the 1100 engine was designed for a series of granny cars.
Nice video I did a bit back in the day. Before buying incline valve heads. Looks a good head
thx
Superb engineering. Enjoyable to watch.
SUBBED, Love the OLD SCHOOL MACHINING. Got to KEEP these Minis on the Road. Now at 50 I;m Deffo Going To Buy another, To HOON around the Welsh Countryside where i Live. Started out On Minis [Got the Old David Vizard book] How to Tune An A Series.
I think you mentioned that you had used Neway valve Seat cutters before. Can you tell me which ones I need to do the 30 and 60 degree top and bottom cuts. I might be able to get a SH set but it only comes with the 46 degree cutter.
Hi
I have a selection of older neway cutters, check the reference numbers with the neway site for 30, 70 and 60 cutters or use three angle cutter blades in a 45 degree body.
Excellent vid, was wondering where you might find a Mira Valve seat cutter?
Best contact them in Switzerland
Hi Stuart. When you press the valve guides in are you using the adjustable stop on top of the flypress to set the guide height or are you pressing them in flush with the top faceof the cylinder head?
the adjustable stop -
mostly they are 2mm proud of the head top face
Amazing nicely done
Hi whered you get the Unleaded inserts from ?
minispares
How much does this head work roughly cost?
Hi kevin this is around £1000
What stage head is this
Hi the stage classifications are used differently better to look for '36x31mm race valves with bronze guides and unleaded inserts ' to compare
A lathe? Yikes